Building A Garden Room - How To Install A Timber Frame

what's happening everyone welcome back today we're going to be covering some tips and tricks to building your own Garden Room like this one so the first steps to building your garden room is to get yourself a base stand this has been done for us so let's get on with the timber work the delivery was being loaded on the truck at 9 00 a.m is now 1 p.m and they're still not here because I do believe they're bringing it by horse and carriage so this is how it goes you just gotta wait around [Music] now that the Timber's finally arrived we've got a handballed over this to the back of the garden so let's get on with it [Music] 199 more to go it's all in beautiful so roof rafters furring strips front wall that's going to be slightly thicker and these are our main studs that are in a bit of a mess because we're going to start using them right now so let's show you the first step so because we've got a lot of these we're going to batch Mark out a load of the sole plates the bottom plate so what that means for us is we're having 400 centers so I've measured from the end 400 repeated that all the way down and then Mars studs are going to sit there marked it to the right marked so on and then we're also putting a mark 600 from each end because we're going to be bolting these down to our base so what I'm doing here is just marking the position of my studs for my plates and these just represents the studs that are going to come up in our wall sections so we just build our wall in sections and then we bolt them together and I've also marked the cross for where I'm going to pre-drill my bolt holes so I'm just going to take the spade bit and pre-drill those so I haven't got to do it right so we're a bit more organized now we've got our studs cut there we've got the bottoms or the bases or the soles and we've got the heads or the tops all cut marked ready to go and some more studs over there so let's get one built and show you what it looks like so we're going to get one from this little pile the bottom piece Chuck it in a space I'm also going to get one from the top pile put that over here like so and each one of these Bays is going to take seven studs so we're going to grab seven studs right because we've marked all these out we don't need to do any measurements I'm just going to take our studs and we're just going to nail them in place all the way along the bottom plate that we've got here you'll know it's for the bottom because remember we drilled the holes in the bottom ones so they're just slightly different because they've got holes in them [Music] so this is the corner of the building this one so what I'm going to do I'm going to actually put a spacer in and then we're going to put an extra stud on here because when your other Wall comes like so you've got something for your plaster ball to sit on because if that wasn't there you've got nowhere to pin your plasterboard so just for the corners this is [Music] if you are going to use this little method here just try and leave this stud last because obviously you won't get your nail gun or your screw gun whatever you choose to use you won't get it in so a little tip for you there [Music] so this is the basic structure we're building little sections of wall and pinning them all together as we build them so we're going to crack on there and then I'll show you the infill so because these are not going to quite fit full length every time so we'll cut down and make smaller sections of all see you in a second so we're building these type of structures Phil likes to build loads of little sections first like here he is now it's much easier to do this so all that prep work feels done first by marking All Them Holes where he's going to bolt it down and I'll show you because we're going to resin bolt these down to the ground so obviously we don't want the foam to blow away and also he marked all the centers so now when he just brings it just just banging him in like it's nothing so basically if you start if users are doing this at home if you start in a corner it's a lot easier and the structure will hold together but obviously it still can blow over it's not very strong at this stage because obviously we've got a racket and we're actually going to show you that in this video [Music] well as the day is coming to an end today because we've had a really late delivery if you have to leave your frame like this we're going to be putting some temporary bracing down into the ground behind just to stop it from blowing over so you can just grab some Timbers we're going to get some battered ones but you can use a good one screw it in and then just unscrew it it's absolutely fine so now Phil's building the final corner using the plasterboard technique and I'll show you what it means in Practical terms so when you lay a bit of plaster here boss and then you allow a bit of plaster here there's something to screw on into the corner and as you can see he's got to put the center section in again because he wants to get his pin gun not just a pin gun if views are using like a drill you still need to leave that Gap out to fix your outer ones in put your head on and then put that middle bit in after he's actually working on this little corner here but we're missing this here he's actually building that section and then we're going to bolt that to that bit and then we're going to put the full structures in so I was wandering over with it like it's nothing foreign sunny today and what we're doing before we crack on building any more walls is we're going to put our damp DPC which is this stuff it's just a sheet of plastic underneath the plates on the floor and what that does is that stops any moisture trapping up into your Timber so if you look at these two here if that was to sit there moisture is going to track up into this and it'll rot out before you know it if you put yourself a little bit of DPC like this it's a barrier between the moisture and the timber so we'll get on with that and then we'll move to the next steps so at this current point of time we're just building the the last two full walls before we actually put the little pieces in on the edges so because we've got so many studs to cut rather than doing this measure Mark and all that all I've done is I've put myself a little stop block on the end of my saw with a clamp and I'll just popped that up I put myself a little pencil Mark there just in case I knock this over so I know that it's definitely good slide it over run the saw through and just keep repeating this a lot faster especially when you're doing that many so a little tip there for you right so we are currently on the last of the four walls now so we've got another four wall here that we can build and there that we can build so we're just going to just build them on the floor throw them up all right time for another wall slowly coming around there as you can see and the good thing about this is it starts to support itself not so risky remember she ain't got one of these get yourself a screw gun could just screw it again but this is obviously faster or a hammer and nails right so we've got all of our walls built except our main face wall which we're going to be leaving because the doors are going in there and now we're going to move on to starting to bolt these walls down so we've run a string line put some blocks on each end and then we just go along moving the wall with a spare block so it's all completely straight drill our holes as you can see there's some holes drilled and then we'll blow them out with some air and then we're going to resin fix some threaded bar in there and then we'll bolt this building to the floor so let's get on with it so it's time to put some Noggins in our back wall so come with us so what we've done we've measured our gaps but what I like to do is I like to measure at the bottom because what you'll get is you'll get deflection if you look at that it bows into that so if you measure the bottom it's more accurate you won't end up bowing your walls at we've drilled and put some threaded bar in ready to bolt that back wall down and then we'll rack it which will show you just after we put these Noggins in the reason you want to put some Noggins in is because over this span if you look it just brings more rigidity to the building we're going to set them at about 1200 reason we do that that is about half the height and it gives extra support to things like plasterboard when you come to screw it on so let's show you the racking and the Noggins and then we'll move on from that quick tip for when you're running in your Noggins if you're like me and you want them to be perfect we just Mark over and get ourselves a chalk line but now in one end if you're by yourself or get your helper to hold it and we just go Bing and now we know exactly where our Noggins need to be right so Noggins across the back are in obviously we've got to do all the sides and we've started to rack the building so all that means is we're taking sheets of OSB or ply if you like or you can even put diagonals in but we're using sheets on the back and what that does if I show you this wall here see how much that rocks backwards and forwards now if we just come to the we've put two balls on here you'll see that no matter how hard I push that that wall solid so when you do all of the sides the building starts to take shape and it becomes super strong right so back wall finish racking that Noggins all the way through just leaving that one wall now and our opening so windows we've used chem fix for threaded bar and nut and washer on the plate so now this building is strapped down to this concrete pad so what we're going to do oh we've also put some straps across the side where we haven't wrapped it yet just hold it level until we have so now we're going to start putting on some of the rafters to help keep the building from swaying about when we're not here until the next day right so remember we've done the back we've racked it we've put some temporary strapping on the sides because we haven't racked that yet but that acts as racking so the walls are now level both ways so if you want to look if we Chuck that on there very good to say we're nice and level and now we've put it on our roof Rafters so we've sized them for the span they've got a cover so you'll have to size yours to the span you've got to cover once you've got your Rafters in place we've set these out at 400 centers because that's what we like to use you need to strap your roof down super important so what we do is we use something called a truss clip and if you look over here we've done one see that's nailed in so if any wind was to come under the eaves it won't just rip the roof straight off it's now strapped to the building so it's a little bit of a belts and braces sort of thing so we're going to crack on with ease so when you're installing these we use site called a Twist now looks like that looks like now but twisted you can normally put these on the outside but this building's a little bit different to what you would normally do so we'll explain that at the end and we'll show you what we've done so we're going to be installing them inside makes no odds foreign every single hole 200 more to go and we'll see where it is done right things have changed a little bit since she was last here as you can see we finished the racking that we was talking to you about most of the rafters are now on the roof and our next step once you get to this stage is going to be putting in Noggins like this one I've pre-cut and just wedged up there to show you what they do is they tie your roof all together and they stop the rafters from twisting like this and also we'll be showing you because if you'll notice we've got a tight rope here that's just to stop this wall while we're not here that needs to get tied into these as well that stops that wall from wobbling from the wind so we've got to get on with that and then it'll be time to move on to actually shutting this building in so we've got a little framed in window here as you can see we've still got our 400 centers leading up to here but then obviously they change slightly wherever we need to put our window then put a bottom plate top plate and some Noggins in to spread the weight of the roof but because it's such a small not really a big deal on these ones another thing I want to cover before we move on with this roof we have got a 160 by 50 still box tube up here five millimeter wall and that is going to take the weight of the front of the roof it's not a lot of weight on this design but either way you need to take the weight because this is going to have bifolds and bifolds don't like having weight pushed down on them they'll stop working they'll stop sliding is very strong so let's get them with a roof foreign [Music]

Channel: The Home Improvements Channel UK

Views: 47,205

Keywords: how to, diy, do it yourself, garden, garden room, building a garden room, install a timber frame, how to install a timber frame, how to build a timber frame, stud, stud wall, noggins, racking, roof, roof rafters, how to fix roof rafters, install, installation, garden diy, home, renovation, house renovation, pin gun, damp proof course, DPC, framing garden room, timber, wooden frame, header, building stud wall, how to build a stud wall, installing noggins, Home Improvements

Id: t-Vg3RVnoV0

Length: 14min 56sec (896 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 29 2023