How i Built a Garden Room Workshop Flat Roof Quickly - Workshop Build PT4

so in the last episode you might have seen that we got all four of the walls up for the workshop and in this episode we're going to get the roof on yeah I'm about to fade away we're going to show you everything from putting the joists on the roof and completing the roof deck with the USB right through to where we get the edpm rubber roof up on roof and settled so we'll show you all of that in this episode plus I'm sure much much more and it's freezing out here you think all that work I did in the summer on the renovation series and now I've come outside in I think it was minus one when I came out here this morning to build a workshop I must be mad right first thing we're going to do is pull all the joist around they're 4.8 M lengths so we got 4 M span plus an overhang so 6 but2 will be plenty if you're copying along to this project you could uh use five BOS bolted together and that would give you a little bit more head height so choosing a 6 but two saves me a little bit of work cuz I haven't got a bolt them together but it does lose me a little bit of head height but that's a tradeoff that I chose we've got our roof Joys here what we're going to do first is cut them to length now we got an 80 mil overhang on the back edge and a 455 overhang on the front edge by the time we got a perimeter on that will bring us up to a 500 mil overhang so first we'll cut all the joists on the saw so we know the lengths are correct and then we'll get them up onto the tops of the wall plates and space them out every 400 I'll show you all of that once we've got them cut so we got some joists cut to length now we're going to start to fix them onto the top plates on the front and the back of the building now they're going to be 400 centers just like our uprights were the first one will sit just against this side wall plate and then we'll Spike that down from the top using some 100 Mil screws then 400 centers so the second one will be here and we'll be able to screw up through the top plate here into the bottom of that joist so we're going to get the first one up off the side wall there and the first one up on that side wall then we'll run a string line across the front so that we know exactly where all of the joist need to go so we get them all perfectly in line along the front otherwise when we put the faal on there it's going to be all sco wiff and that we don't want so me a bit Yeah spot on so we got an 80 mil overhang on the back which should give us four 55 on the front I'm letting Chris do a little bit of the work he said he wanted to do some of the work I like to do it all normally but you know he said he got to do something he's put a string line up you can see that the string line runs from the first joist to the end joist and then we can lift each joist onto the back wall plate and front wall plate and what we're going to be able to do is then slide the joist forward until it's a millimeter from the string line and that's the best way to make sure that all of the joists sit in line with one another and that they're in the correct position so to fix the joists in place all we do is go up from the bottom with some 100 Mil screws and the screws compared to Nails just pull it a little bit tighter on the roof cuz on the walls we use nails but the screws just pull it that little bit tighter so that if we look is all the joists up now and what we're going to do now is just fix the end ones if you come this way we'll put a bit of Timber from this top plate here onto this joist because they're quite long lengths they do tend to Bow a little bit so we'll fix this in position we'll fix the other end in position and then we'll put a rower nogans down the middle and that stops them bowing or twisting we got some rain coming in and we're running out of light so we're fighting against time now to get this staple to the walls to protect it so the building can't succumb to any moisture and we're going to put a big tarping over the joists because we haven't got time to get the roof boarded today we've got it from the floor to the roof joists in less than 3 days about 2 and a half days because I'm talking to the camera and moving the camera around things do take longer when when you're filming um often double the time actually and we need to get this water top before the rain comes in so we're going to whack this breathable membrane off we're going to just carry that around the building cut it around the door and stable it to the USB and that will protect the USB uh before I do that what I'm going to do is and this would all make sense to you guys who saw the first few episodes if you haven't seen them go check them out I explained to you before that we leave the shuttering on to keep the DPM nice and tidy and what we can do now before we put the membrane on is lift that DPM up and staple that up around the edges of the building and that stops any moisture tracking under the waterall and getting up into the timber I'll fold it over on the corners and I'll just staple the whole lot but I've got a little strip of USB I just need to put in here before we put the membrane on now the breathable membrane is really really easy to use all you need to do is unroll it off the roll wrap it around the building and then you can just staple it in place with a staple gun and you just overlap each pass as you go so that no moisture can get behind it guys you can't really see me but we've ran out of light Chris has actually shine and an impact driver light on my face we have got a tarping on the roof we've got the Rhino vent on but we've completely lost the light I'll pick up the camera again on the next dry light day right we got daylight again we completely ran out of daylight the other day and had to Chuck a tarping over the roof to keep the rain out um but we're back at it and what we're doing at the minute is just putting some laddering down the side just to hold the perimeter for the C and boards and the trims for the edpm roof I'll jump up on the roof in a minute and show you exactly what I mean once we got these in place but all we're doing is putting some essentially Noggin along the edge of this joist here and screw them through to hold them on the top of the wall plate highs and the lows no you'll never be the same I don't really want to hurt you but I can't control the Bane if you're sticking by my side maybe we could be and it was all going pretty well until that just happened don't you just love 100 screw [Music] pick right you joined me up on the roof we now have a solid box joy are in Noggin are in and we've done the ladder and and perimeter around the side I'll grab the camera off the tripod take you around and show you how we did the ladder and explain it all to you a little bit better so that you understand it fully excuse me if I'm not looking at the camera I don't want to fall through cuz that would actually that do some good views on YouTube you can see the joist that we put on the top plate of the front and the back wall and then we've created this laddering around the edge now that'll give us our overhang you can see how we've formed this overhang here now we've put our laddering in so we've screwed to the end joist here put these pieces of Timber in here and then screwed the perimeter all the way around the building that gives us a nice big overhang on the front and uh an overhang and a small overhang all the way around um but the overhang not only gives us the ability to put down lights in gives it a nice effect but also protects the building from our Great British weather so that's what we're up to now what we need to do is get the USB up here um if you're following along what you want to do is get a few boards up here to lay your tools on and give yourself uh a bit of an area to work from and walk around as well cuz otherwise you're going to end up falling through so let's get some tools up and start laying this stuff 18 mil USB tongue and groove and what we're going to do we're going to make this one by gluing it together and we're going to nail it down with nail gun 50 mil ring Shanks you don't have to use them you can use screws just like we did with the walls though I prefer to use the nails because it doesn't pull the timber in and blister it it gives you a nicer finish so the nails probably your Preferred Choice but if all you've got is um an impact driver and screws go with that so what we're going to do nail this front edge first with the tongue facing away from we'll work from this left hand corner roof's nice and square so it's pretty easy um we'll nail this front edge now we don't nail this Edge yet cuz that edge will give us a little bit of flexibility to slide the tongue into so that makes it a little bit easier so we'll get the first row nailed down on this front edge we'll glue all the joints and then slide them in as we go Chris just passed me that glue and I'll show them what glue we use so this is 5 minute I don't if you can see can they see that on the on the camera is it too far away bring us in closer this is f the the logo's come off 5 minute Lumberjack glue I think it's from Tool station 20 odd quid once we've got it in the joint it'll go off really quickly it'll go off nice and hard as well and it'll expand and leave fo out of the joints and then what you do once that's gone hard you just go along and you scrape that off and just like we did with the walls we'll start by nailing the board in the corners just stick a couple in it for now because we've left this Edge un nailed you see we still got a bit of maneuverability to slide this next board in now it doesn't matter that the tongue and groove doesn't fall on a joist because we're gluing it that will make the roof one and it'll be perfectly fine to have your joints not falling on a joist bit of glue on that joint glue's gone cold ready yeah to reduce the waist that bit that we cut off that end then starts our next row back up the other end again and that means we're always using that off cut to stagger the joints so the tongue slots into our first board hopefully you can see that what we're going to do is just overhang the roof very slightly because the it's not perfectly Square it is actually a couple of mil out um which I'm I'm quite happy with on a building of this size and what we're going to do is put a straight edge along it and run the so along the overhang at the end and that allows us to get all the edges perfect on the roof deck here before we put the edpm rubber roof down once you get going it gets a bit easier cuz you got something to walk on so once you got the first couple of rows up you're good to go really just keep working in One Direction same I don't really want to hurt you but I can't control the ban if you're sticking by my side maybe we could feel okay okay okay maybe you could be the change I need today I promise that I'm never fell this way ioose stay that's pretty much it for the roof deck what we're going to do now is just run along the edges with the saw it's going to get dark in about an hour so we'll probably cover this back up with the tarping and then in the morning we will put the edpm roof on I'll show you the whole process so I'll pick up the camera then right so day actually it's a nice day the first bit of sunny weather on this whole project so far so this morning what we've done is just gone around the edges and sanded down the corners now if you can see that there we've just given them a little sand down and that is just to take the sharp corner off so it doesn't puncture the rubber roof it's really thick rubber so it shouldn't puncture anyway but belts and braces I feel better if I take the sharp Corners off so I've done that we then scraped all the glue from the joints cuz it Foams up a little bit so we got a scraper took all that off and then give it a blow with a blower so all of the dirt from our boots and glue and everything like that is off the roof and we now got our ladder here and we're going to get the edpm sheet up onto the roof we'll lay it up on here un roll it and get it on roughly you see most people don't film this bit because it's actually probably the hardest bit of get on the rubber roof on the Roof oh God about going to pull me off the roof happy that was easy yeah we've unrolled the sheet of edpm and now we're just going to stretch it out over the roof why you laying down on the job because I can't get down cuz I can't get down someone moved the ladder right so we have got the edpm laid out on the roof it's nice and square and we've got enough excess hanging over the sides to work with what we're going to do now is let that settle for a few days out in the sun that'll just get all the little creases out and things like that and then we'll come back and we'll glue it down but for now what we're going to do is just screw some batters around the side just to hold it there so the wind doesn't blow it away so none of this edpm here on the fascia is going to show cuz you're going to have C and board or fascia board over this and then the rubber roof Trims on there as well so we could if we wanted just screw through there to hold the rubber in place while it settles right roof's on I'm going to end this episode here and then in the next episode we're going to be getting the Batters on this thing cladding it and maybe some other fun stuff as well so make sure if you're not a subscribed already that you subscribe now because you don't want to miss out on future episodes like the video if it's helped you out or if you've enjoyed it and I'll see you guys in the next one

Channel: The DIY Guy

Views: 104,458

Keywords: how to build a flat roof, how to make a flat roof, how to build a garden room roof, how to build a garden room, how to make a garden room, how to construct a flat roof, how to build a workshop, how to make a shed roof, how to build a workshop roof, roofing, timber frame building, framing a garden room, build a garden room, timber flat roof, edpm, epdm roofing installation, edpm rubber roof, epdm rubber roofing installation, edpm roof, diy, diy guy, the diy guy

Id: typgQNxIOWI

Length: 13min 48sec (828 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 10 2024