PART 2 FULL GARDEN ROOM BUILD How to build stud walls with OSB Sheathing and roof slope

right good morning or you fantastic 1200 subscribers thank you very much for subscribing to the channel this is part two of The Garden run build on this 5x4 Garden Room we're building over here in princess risborough so part two is going to be walls we've done the base yesterday and we've finished all that off we've given it a sweep this morning it's nice and tidy we leave the shuttering on until we've built the walls because it holds the DPM up and when the walls are up we're going to wrap the DPM up the wall so we leave the shuttering until till we've done uh completed all the walls it just makes it a bit easier and keeps the site a bit tidier right so walls today we are going to build the back wall first and that is a five meter wall back there so we're going to build that the full width and then our sidewalls are going to tag into the back wall onto the rear of the wall of the building it's a nice way of fixing and then you get a full length width on the back so we're going to use our 4.8 meter four by twos and then we're going to add on our 200 sections onto the end of it and join them together we'll show you how to do it it's really simple straightforward you can do loads of different ways drawing them nice and fancy but we can do it nice and simple so you guys can follow and it structurally secure it's perfect so we're going to get on that so what we're going to do we're going to tidy the ends up of the woods tidy all your ends up some people do some people don't it's a bit of a cowboy way if you don't do it because you're going to build your walls all a bit ski with like they'll probably be square but the ends won't all be touching so it's nice just to Chuck them onto the skill saw chop saw there or if you've got a skill saw we'll show you how to tidy them up with a skill saw and get them dead straight using a square so we're going to get on that tidy ends of these up and then we're going to get all our Noggins sorry our uprights onto the back wall cut those and then we're going to lay it all out and then we're going to construct the wall nail it all together and stand it up okay so if you've got a chop saw like this fantastic trim the ends up with the chop saw that's going to be your best bet to get the straightest Plum cut on there now if you don't get skill saw set some saw horses up or something like that to put your Timber on and just make a little Mark on the end so you can follow it but the best way to do it is put your Square down line your saw up and then put your blade right up to the line on the right hand side of it and hold this really tight with your left hand and that's going to be your guide in order to get a perfectly straight cut make sure you don't let this wander like that you know we haven't got much of the Timber sitting on the foot of the skill saw here but we hold it nice and steady and we're going to cut through it [Music] and there you go that's dead straight and that's just going to tidy that end up nicely so we're now we're on the wall here and we're putting everything on it it's going to be all Plumb oh look at that perfect right okay so we tidy those ends up now we need to determine the size of our uprights so overall build height on permitted development is going to be 2.5 meters in most cases if you're more than two meters on the boundary you can go three meters at the front and a maximum of 2.5 at the rear in this case we're within that boundary with it we're within a meter of the perimeter of the building and the boundary so we're going to permit the development of 2.5 meters at the front of the building now the way we work that out really simple um we've got all the measurements and written down and stuff like that for projects we do but sometimes our base is when we do concrete come a bit a little higher and lower and we can just squeeze those extra like 10 20 mil out of the building it does help with your internal head height so for argument's sake just to show you guys how we do it and make it simple for you guys at home we're going to show you how we do it off the floor so really straightforward don't need special tools get a bit of Timber and just fly it off the concrete base put your tape measure on the highest point of of the ground directly adjacent to the building in that case it could be at the back which means you're pretty safe you can pretty build higher than 2.5 but when it's at the front here our back of our building is lower the highest point is at the front here so we're here and that is 80 mil from the grass to this level piece of the concrete base there because that's coming directly straight off use a spirit level Timber whatever you like but that's pretty straight so that'll do so we're 80 mil so we're going to use that as our Point here James's phone has locked so he's just going to come and unlock that quickly he can't unlock it because he's got gloves on oh sorry guys looking forward level okay mate go on no no we'll leave that in right okay so 80 mil so we're gonna go two five zero zero on our calculator someone's up with James phone doesn't work go after it gloves off and get cold hands so two five zero zero now we've got our 80 mil there so we're going to minus 18 mil off that then we're going to take away our wall plate which is going to be the bottom of our wall which is a 45 which it's a four by two so that's 45 by 100 so we've got a minus 45 off there then we're going to take off our top plate which is another 45 then on top of that we have our 5x2 Timber joists for the ceiling roof whichever you want to call it and then so we're going to minus off and a five by two is 125 mil on average give or take a few mil then never bang on but we'll call it 125 for now um and then on top of that we're gonna have 18 mil tongue and groove OSB sheets so we're going to take off 18 off that there that leaves us with two one eight seven so that would tell us that our uprights need to be 2187 however on these buildings we have a pitch on the roof and we do it about 20 mil per meter of of wall length on the on the back there so if it's a four meter building span that way if the roof is a four meter span we're going to drop it down 80 mil so 20 40 60 80 quite straightforward however when we have a 600 overhang at the front that's going to be 600 so that's pretty much half of 20. so you're going to have to which will be 10 mil we're gonna have to add an extra 10 mil to that measurement what's your code James right so we're going to add 20 mil to that right so 2187 20 mil sorry and then take off another 10 mil that leaves us with two one seven seven so to make it nice and easy we know that our uprights need on the front of our building need to be two one seven seven we'll always like to be a little bit under the tolerance just in case there's any movement in the ground or anything like that and we get any people from the planning Council coming around being funny so we'll take another seven mil off and we'll call it two one seven zero so that is the measurement for our uprights and that will give us a total build height of just under 2.5 so that's how we do it nice and straightforward so from now on we know all our uprights on the front are going to be 2 170. and then obviously we're going to drop off 20 mil per meter on the back and that is going to bring us down to 2090 right cool so 80 mil yep two zero nine zero quick mass in the brain there nice and straightforward subtraction so that's it so we know all our measurements now so we're going to crack on we're going to get all our 4x2 Timbers out cut them all to size tidy all the ends up so they're nice and sweet and perfect and then we're going to get the build up so the back goes straight forward we're going to show you how we do that and then with the side walls we do actually have a full and we're going to show you how to work out the angles for every piece of upright on the walls in a sec so let's get onto the back wall right okay so first upright down now we're just going to mark all our 400 so tape on the end and just Mark every 404 8 12 16 and so on all the way down the wall till the end we've been quite lacking here so our 400s last one just landed here the next one's gonna be about here which means we're gonna have a nice joint piece here which connect these two walls together um reason we do this is because our boards are 12 20 so we're gonna have to cut down all our OSB sheets 20 mil and fit them on but they're just all going to fall there nicely when we scrabbles it will all fall onto the 1200 stud there and we've marked this one here which is a hundred in because we'll put another stud here where the x is so you mark it here and we put the X because obviously our side walls are going to come into this and join up and we're going to tag them into this back wall and that means that there wouldn't be a joist there for our plasterboard to fit into when we plasterboard the room inside so we put that there just so we've got that all fixed and ready to go okay so fixing the wall plates to the uprights really straightforward um you know nail gun put it up to the side there watch out Bank fix that fix that that'll do maybe three for good measure that's going to hold that nice and square there we'll do the same on the top and then we'll work our whole way down the wall just doing the same thing just a couple of Nails in each one put a joist in the center of that Mark there and we're good to go you know these are really good this electric one James has got the pass load pretty much the same thing maybe the Paso's got a bit more power but it's a bit um it's much lighter as well it's quite heavy you've got to be a bit of a man to use this so that's why I use it and he uses the light one um I'm joking he's getting angry he's going to throw something at me um so yeah Paso is cool that's really light but it's just a bit temperamental in Colder Weather and sometimes it misfires but so far this Milwaukee has been pretty sweet like we've never had a problem with it but you can screw them you can just put some 70s in there or hundreds fix them up like nails are a bit better because they don't snap I think that's why um you know that's the whole structural reasons behind why I use nails so yeah but yeah nails for framing really is better but you can screw them and it does Pull It in tight so but yeah so we're going to do that okay all the uprights fitted we use 90 mil Nails I didn't say that a second ago um yeah 90 mil Nails in the lovely male walking nail gun so now we're going to piecing up a bit here so um we're going to add in 200 mil just to the edge here so 200 mil put that in there and then our next stud from here sits about here so our measurement is going to be I'll get that piece in and we'll measure it and we'll fill that in and we'll just tag it all in together and hold that dead straight and solid so if you follow me over here real straightforward measure up 200 on there saw down so we'll piece this in here and then what we'll do get our tape we're going at 400 here from this stud Mark there 400 is here so that'll be our Center for our next joist we'll put that in and it's at 380 so studs at 45 so we'll take off 22.5 off there so 10 20. 2.5 roughly about there so we're going to do a three five seven cut for our infield piece there um it's a real straightforward and easy way of doing it seven as I said earlier there are other ways you can do this but the home DIYs this is probably gonna be the easiest way so now we're going to tag all this together in here just put some screws in we'll fix it all with some 70s or hundreds just to fix it through both pieces and it will just hold this nib here um in position and when we get all our OSB on that will hold all that tight so it's not going to be too crazy it's only 200 um and it'll be nice and solid and we put her up right there that will fit in nicely so I'll show you how that looks in a minute okay so James is laying down our first sheet of OSB over there um how we do this we have to chop these down 20 mil now the reason behind this is because um the sheets are 12 20 in size and obviously we do our studs at 400. now you either build your studs to 12 20 to start with obviously they're still going to be every 400 and you have to cut your sheet of plasterboard but we always like to start off on the internal side of the wall with a full sheet of plasterboard because then we just get all nice smooth gaps the whole way down like cutting sheets of plaster to start with so we like to just take 20 ml off these boards um and then it works that way for us so we Square the walls with these boards as we put them down so if James holds the camera I'll show you guys How We Do It so we've got a wall here see how it starts there now what we do is we get the wall because that's the bottom oh yeah of course sorry my bad what we didn't do here is we're going to square these out to the sheets we know that these sheets are dead Square um you can build these walls upright and do it that way but we find Just For Speed and getting it done quicker it's easier just to lay them on the floor like this and square them off with the OSB so how we do it again you just literally fit the sheet to this side here so we get it all square along the bottom and then all square along here and we'll fix there they're there up here well we'll actually do our two Corner points first sorry and then we'll pull the wall up and down so if I show you how we do that grab my nail gun smaller Nails on this one what these I think these are 50s ring shank nails you pop them in the gun set our depth to half of what it was in the other because otherwise it's gone too perfect it'll just blow them straight through the OSB as I said so we'll get this corner to corner there's square foot there [Music] that's it James remind us yep so just a little bit off the bottom of the plates when you stand the wall up the wall isn't resting on the sheet of ply so we've got a little lip there we can go off so we'll square this sheet on this back piece there and here so we'll fix there and then we will fix here now if you come over here James here everyone we've got dead flush here and dead flush on this top bit and this will always belly in a little bit I'll show you how we pull that out in a minute but that's a bit irrelevant when we're squaring the wall and now you can come down here and you can see it was a little bit out of Plum so it needs a bit of a kicking up just a couple of mil and then we'll have that nice lip there same as it's on this side here yep and then that will work just fine a bit more knocking there we go and now we'll fix that there that board is ready to cut so we're going to get our track on it cut 20 mil off on it we're going to set the depth to our track saw to 20 mil and we'll just cut this Slither off and then we'll fit our next board in and we'll do the same the whole way down the wall so the next sheet will fit on we'll get it dead plumb up to this one and then the wall run out a bit more knock it left or right either way and then the wall will run through the whole way down until the end and just show you quickly how we get this out I'll show you a little drill we've got this little 70mm screw all we do we just tag it in a bit that and then normally if we can pull it out ourselves by hand we will but this one's about five mil so it's quite tough to pull out so just put a little saw on it and then we can put it into the USB and you can just pull it out like that just one hand pulls it flush you can see it Flex in there we'll get it dead flush and just put a couple of Nails in and that's going to hold there and then that holds it nice and true for when we do our batting later on on the build it's always nice to have this nice and true so yeah we'll um we'll finish this wall off and then we'll get it up okay so yeah had the plan saw out we've got three meter track on this one allows us to cut a dead straight line you can use a skill saw with a fence on it set to 20 mil just to rip it down but you get bang straight accurate line with this track so it does help just getting that extra little bit of um accuracy but as you can see now it's nice and flush here and the wall it's just it's running out a little bit so again we fix on this side now so we'll fix here and here so always fix on the right hand side first and work our way down so we'll fix two points there and that leaves the wall still loose so we can move the wall plates left and right like that in order to get the wall to run dead true so we'll fix two there knock the wall down a bit then go around and fix it all and then we'll move on to the next board we do cut them down as you can see here it's not catching a stud but as we cut the 20 mil off it will we cut them as they're lying down because it's just that little bit easier instead of doing them up there with the track when they're on the trestles they dip once we've got it down here you set the saw to what is it 11mm speeds we set it to 11 mil depth and um yeah we just get a nice 11 mil cut and sometimes you might cut half a mil out of the joist which isn't the end of the world so um which makes life a bit easier so we'll run through the whole wall and do that Okay so DPC get a DPC course wider the better because it's much more easy when you're just moving walls around imperative to have when you're putting it on a concrete base obviously we've got our DPC our DPM damp proof membrane under the base to prevent any moisture coming up however double proof it you always want to be super safe when you when you're working off the floor if you're doing a Timber base with ground screws or something like that not the same situation but with this get a DPC down as well and we can just run this down like this so we've walked down the wall the concrete base even and that will sit just in line with the concrete there it's always nice to trim it down about here seriously you've got a little bit you can you know staple that to the wall or something like that when it's up just adds that extra bit of moisture proofing so get that down on there and then we're going to lift our wall up and slide it over a bit lift it up we're going to just lean that up for now until we build our sidewalls okay so we're now on to the side walls now there's two ways doing this um you can either build them Square and then put a wedge piece in because obviously you build your front wall higher than your back wall you can have your slope on your roof like this aren't you so if you come over here um I'll show you so you know you've got your square box like this um we need this wall to be higher up here don't we so we're going to put our roof on a slant like that but actually James got the camera that way so we'll build it like this look and then we're going to have our slope on the roof like this aren't we so you got this Square so normally if you build the wall Square you're going to have this infill to fill in which sometimes we don't like so what we want to do is build our box like this and then our side walls we want to build like that so we're going to have our uprights like here and so this side is 2 1. and up here is 2 180. so over the course of four meters that's pretty straightforward it's just 20 millimeter and that's it works out really well for this job 20 millimeters really nice and easy to work out because you've got an 80 mil drop from the top to the back and that's obviously 20 millimeter divide that by your four meters it's nice and easy it's just eight mil per joist because we're going to have 10 joists if you do your four meters divided by 400 you're going to get 10 joists in there 10 uprights um so you divide that out and then you're just going to have an eight mil difference in size so your first one is going to be 2180 next one is going to be 2 1 70 and it goes down all the way to 2.1 so very straightforward on this one how we do that but now you've got to work out your Angle now what we do normally is we we put the wall on the floor Square um and we Square it up and then we put our joist up and we get a sliding bevel and we just put that on there and get our angle but because we do this all the time we know that this is about a degree so it's one degree angle on each piece so you cut all the bottom uprights straight on your saw and then you're going to have your highest point at the front there and your lowest point at the back there so you just cut them at a one degree cut and then piece them all in it's really straightforward nice and easy if you know the measurements and if you're doing a different size you know if you're doing 100 Mil drop over the course of four meters then you just divide you do your four meters you divide four thousand you get four thousand divide that by your 400 centers and then you just divide that by your your drop so in that case say you've got a a five meter wall you're going to divide five meters by 400 and then you're going to take your say 100 Mil drop and divide that by how many studs you've got which would probably be 12 and it will give you a drop of maybe six mil per stud or something like that so nice and easy to work out if you've got any questions just drop them in the comments box below um uh yeah just drop them in the comments box below where you can go from there and answer them but we're going to get building on this and get them all done and lifted up so I'll show you when we're doing it how we piece it all together just to make it a little bit more clear um but we're going to go and get some Timber so while we're laying these out just another quick one here on measuring your studs so there's two ways you can do it really um you can measure in at 400 there so you can measure from the end 400 and draw a line and use that as your center of your stud so for example Let's Pretend your 400's here and you're just going to Mark A Center Line you'd put your bit of Timber up to it and you're sort of guessing where the center is really it's not the most accurate way probably a bit quicker you know but you're just putting your stud on the center on there or you can do it the other way where you measure 400 in and then what you're going to do is measure 22.5 so you can probably do 22 because each stud's 45y so you can divide that by two so 10 20 to the left and 2 mil so it's going to be there and then you put a cross on it and that's the side your stud will set so obviously the center of the stud now is going to be bang on in the center of the joist so if you look there the 400 is right in the center it's just a way of being a little bit more accurate on your stud work if you're being really picky getting it all like literally bang on perfect so a couple of ways of doing it uh some people like doing it this way some people like just whacking a line and just sort of getting it right it's always there or thereabouts you know any framework password goes on it you've still got your 20 45 you've got 22 mil Weaver side of leeway so be able to sort of share a couple of ways of marking out your joists on this wall though we're doing it 400 and then what you do is you then put your tape on that line and then you'll just work your way down and Mark every 400 and then put across the other side and that's where your joists will start and you'll do that the whole way down the wall okay so we built the wall now this is the smallest end over there so that's not 2.1 and that is r2180 this end so high this end which means our slope is on the top you've always got to make sure you build that right don't build the slope this side because that'll be annoying because it'll be the wrong way around um so slopes coming down here I'm going to stand this wall up here um now while we see that it's going to be exactly the same as the back wall um obviously we've got this um we've got a slope on the top there so we can ignore that side don't need to work off it because our 90 degree right angle is going to be off the bottom so it's exactly the same print support on this side Square it all up down that line there so go straight there on the bottom right and then here and then fix there and there so we're just gonna a nail gun just drop those Nails out because you don't need those pop 50s back in reset our gun right so pop that around a little bit and again we're just going to go up leave our nice little couple of mill on the bottom there so we've got a nice line there it's dead flush here and a nice little lip on that side so to fix that oh dear oh we had a big one in there so fix that one knock that one in and then again tap that dead flush there and we'll just fix that there because that will hold our board in place and now we're going to square the bottom obviously we've got a slope on that side on the top of the wall we don't need to think about that we just need to square the wall now to this and again we're actually pretty good how we are so we've got a couple of mill on the bottom here that's good so we'll fix that there just on the inside there and then here and that's that sheet done and we'll just carry on working down the wall and obviously we're still going to cut off our 20 millibar board there carry on this wall and then we'll get it up Okay so time to pick the wall up we're going to lift the wall up and then we're going to fix the two together and then we've got some structure and support and we can move the building around because we're going to square off the room the concrete square so we're going to build to the edges um but it's just easier when they joined together to just shift them over so we're gonna pick them up pop this in here right way we're all good real good are you ready mate okay yum so it's a two-man job really maybe one could pick this up you reckon I might be able to might be able to so I'm gonna hold this and then uh James is gonna pull that wall up and just tag them together I could actually give you a hand if you want to pull the middle foreign just like that um okay so if I want to get right on the other side so if you want to put some steps on the uh I'm gonna put some steps in here oh no I'm gonna hold these okay and you're gonna go around there and tell me where it's flushed lovely lovely lovely oh you got that yeah good stuff all right so I'm gonna go around there 10 minutes flush he's going to screw them all up right just to give you guys a bit of a better Insight so we fixed one in the top here I've got on the outside and we'll top and then we'll go middle and bottom and then we'll just put a few more in just for just for structure so you can see how we're doing it and this side here you can see how we are the screws just come out so we'll take that out and put another one in but that's just pinched it in for now um we're doing it in line with the OSB so the timber behind is in line with this so the OSB sits over it so we'll fix one in the middle so Jeff you just push it out and fix one in the middle there yeah let's put your bang on Lovely yeah yeah we're good [Music] it's important when you're screwing them from the inside as well that you screw dead straight so you screw at an angle it's going to pull the wall up so it won't straighten uh so James so you see it's pushed that bottom up so we're going to kick that over a little bit there are that's perfect now [Music] a bit more just to pull it too yeah that's right yeah that's good so we've popped a couple of screws out here but we're going to go fix straight in um and then we'll we'll pull these ones out and rejoin them somewhere else once that's all tattooed that's it we'll fill a bit of burst being here just when our batons meet up on the corners it's got a nice fixing point um so they're up it's as easy as that um and then what we'll do is we will anchor these down with the SDS so we'll put a little seven mil hole through Brown plug it and then 100 Mil screw the whole way around so every other joist we'll do that and fix those down and that makes sure that the walls I mean there's a lot of weight on this building but it just it's nice to have them fixed onto the floor and also if they won't fix down they can move that way so we want those all secured so we'll do that and then we'll get our diagonal braces we'll Plumb the walls up get them all diagonals it's obviously they're quite loose at the minute you can move them around get a diagnosing get them all Plumb and then we'll start working on the um the other wall Okay so we've lifted our walls up we fixed them now we've lined them up with our shuttering as we know that square however we like to be double sure on this so we've got a nice Square in the corner however if you don't have one of these we can do the three four five which I said about earlier or yesterday on the concrete base didn't show you now it depends what you've got so if you've got an inch if you've got inches on your tape you can do three four five foot so you do three foot on this side four foot that side and then measure between the Gap and that will be five foot if your wall is at 90 degrees however we've only got mill on this tape so you can still do the same principle so it would be three four five meters it's quite large if we run off this wall so we're just going to do half of that so on our three meter wall measure 1.5 and then on our four meter we'll measure two meters and then obviously our gap between five is going to be half of that so 2.5 so if you look here we measure it out we measure here we'll do our 1.5 there and then we shall do our uh we're at two meters here which is this line there and then if I put the end of the tape on that one so that and then put it right up to here it's bang on 2.5 which means it is square and we've got a nice ground corner so that's how you do that nice and easy straightforward um onto building this walls are up and fixed so what have we done we've raised all our walls up we've fixed them all together as we said earlier um and what we've done is we've braced them with bits of 4x2 here so on the front you see we put our plate in so we Square levels doing our three four fives then we add our wall plate on the bottom there just a bit four by two all on the bottom we fix it down into the concrete and then we've just added these plate uh these supports so Plumb the wall up then we've screwed them into that that gives a nice fixing instead of going from here into the concrete where it's a bit iffy I'm just going to plate when we build the wall that won't get in the way when we build our front walls and on the back wall here if you're fixing braces into the concrete always like to do this so we make a little bracket here and we fix that into the concrete so there's a support and we can screw into the side of it and then into the wall there and we are Rock Solid so we're now ready so that's um that's stage two completed which is our walls we've finished that now and now stage three The Next Step will be to build this front wall so we'll build our cheeks for our doors either side and this customer is having uh 2.2 meter bifolds and I think he's having them offset to the left a little bit so that will be the next step where we'll show you how to do that and that will be tomorrow and we are also going to be cutting in a window uh just for means of purposes when we do this um we just build the walls like this and we cut windows in after just because a bit quicker when we're framing out on the floor we can just bash it all together get it up nice and true Plumb and then we cut our windows in after and it's really simple we'll show you how to do that uh so yeah thanks very much for watching and stay tuned like subscribe any comments Chuck them in the box below and uh yeah we will have step three up tomorrow where we'll be building our front wall see you then

Channel: Create Garden Rooms Ltd

Views: 68,146

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Id: P1SurnEs_x0

Length: 34min 48sec (2088 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 16 2023