Building a 350 Small Block Chevy Start to Finish - Part 4

okay welcome to the finale series finale what are we doing we're ending the series well that's the end all right see you guys so welcome to part four the finale of the 350 small block chevy build start to finish sitting right over there on the stand right there and we're gonna install it into this here 66 c10 that we're gonna pan over really quick and talk about here in a minute what's the main goal what do we what are we showing what are we focusing on we're gonna get it running so this one automobile i don't know how long it's been sitting but he had an issue with an engine small block chevy um it didn't work out another shop ended bad so he told them pull it out you keep your junk so we're gonna get it back together we're gonna get it on the road we're gonna fix the in my opinion we're gonna fix the garbage at other places not necessarily last shop other people whatever in the past uh butchered up on it so we're gonna pretty much show you how to install it how we would do it so you can you can use how we do it for your own installation whichever you're doing a couple of ways to set it up how to run yeah so let's get right into it [Music] [Music] so this is what we're this is what we're working with here that's where we got it there's some issue with the engine or whatever i don't know the whole story ninja's gone this is this is where we got it so some of the stuff here i noticed is they had the old-school external regulated alternator that they tried to jump or some i don't know they made they try to make it a one-wire but the charge wire is really small but the alternator voltage wasn't enough to run the system is what they had because they had electric fan and stuff so the output of the alternator wasn't even enough to run the system it's got a stereo in here and just if you had the fan going and the headlights on and the radio going it's losing voltage so this is one thing we got to do away with it looks like i don't know if they had it going across the whole engine or what they had going on with it but this is old charge wire for the alternator so we need to eliminate that because the alternator is going on the passenger side long water pump and it's a one wire so all i need is a wire that's going to come off to charge the battery so i just have the one we'll do an 8 gauge or something to the battery so we'll eliminate that clean this up over here see what's going on with this and then over here you can see they got this really trick electric fuel pump and they got a filter before the pump and then they had a filter after the pump going to the carburetor and this just used to have an afv on it but the afb and everything sat in the bed of the truck so long that the butterflies were rusted rusted shut so i'm eliminating this i have an inline filter that i'm going to put back right out of the tank so underneath the truck i'm taking this pump off because the new engine has a mechanical pump on it it probably puts out more fuel volume and pressure than this little dinky thing i think it's only good for like three pounds this is set up for like a a weber carburetor something that's really super low fuel pressure we're taking this out and you can see that they ran a rubber line the whole way the whole way back it's a really small line so we're going to eliminate all that back to the tank and we're going to run a nice 3 8 stainless line and then put the filter in the back this looks like the starter wire i don't know why they have it coming so far forward just to go back to the starter again so that'll be back here we'll clean that up and then you got a relay over here i'm pretty i don't know if this relay is for the fuel pump or if it's for the fan it had a fan in here that was in front of the radiator and i'll show you in a second which is contributed to a lot of the overheating but to have the wires in here is just really really small gauge stuff so to get a fan with enough cfm to even do any cooling you gotta have the right voltage so the alternator has to put out enough to keep the battery charged in order to keep up with everything that's being used so now we have a 100 amp i think it's like 115 full redline dollars in here puts out like 115 amp so it's 100 amp at cruise 2500 rpm-ish it's a 100 amp alternator so we have plenty enough we'll probably use this for the fan i don't know if we'll leave it here we might tuck it away somewhere else you can see here they got the ground going to the battery box here and it's all loose they do have a ground strap on it i may add but it's half the size of the actual battery cable itself i always like to go from the engine to the frame and then the frame to the battery so it's all tied together so i'll use a hole somewhere over here or add a hole then i'll come off the engine that goes to the fuel pump rod that has the hole in it i come off of there with a ground strap i'll use this because it's shorter and i'll come over to the frame and it'll do a stud start washer you know make sure it's grounded good and then come up to the battery negative side so everything's grounded good and you can see also that they didn't have the kick down cable hooked up it looks like it's dragging the pavement for a couple days because it just shredded it so we got a new kick down cable so we'll get the training won't be stack shifting you won't leave a red light being third gear before you cross the intersection get it adjusted right and it actually should hold hold the gear and shift when it's supposed to that's pretty much what i got to do underneath here it's not a whole bunch but it'll definitely be nice to clean it up i'm sure this all come together once it's it's fixed and the engine's in here and you can see how it's laid out but check out this check out this um radiator let me show you what's going on and why i think he was having a problem overheating because he said the thing would not stay cool look at this thing this is our little little parts depot back here some of the new stuff and some of the old stuff they had they had the intake and carbon and stuff just sitting back here and then the radiator they had to sit back here this is a new fan it's going to go on to it it's going to be a polar so let's go on this side we're doing away with this this shroud i don't even know if you want to call this a shroud i think this was an attempt it had a really small mechanical fan on it but it looks like it would work in theory but if you flip this thing over they got this this crazy contraption and you can see that it just blocks all the incoming air and all you have is just this little opening here that air has restriction going through the fan to try to get into the radiator so we're going to eliminate this whole i'm pretty sure this is designed to be on the other side because you can see how it's louvered that the air would be able to escape as after it went through pretty sure this is the whole problem of why it was overheating they had the whole radiator like blocked like we're in alaska and we're trying to keep our diesel warm going through the winter roads you know that's what it looks like here they just got it blocked up so we're going to take this shroud off of here and we're going to take this whole this whole thing that's just bolted on here eliminate this and then we're going to put the the fan on here and then get the right size gauge wire and everything to it and i'm pretty sure this thing will have no problem staying cool and then like i said it'll all come together and make sense be able to show everything more when it's when it's together so let me let me get this wires cleaned up we'll get the engine set in there and you'll see what i'm talking about all right we're back we're ready we're ready we're going to put the engine in the truck now we got the wiring cleaned up here got some of this crap out of the way i'm going to take care of this old fuel line and stuff when i get it up in the air and then the starter wire i want to wait till i get the engine in here and then the vacuum modulator i'm going to take that all the way off and i'm going to redo that whole line but i'll do that when i get the truck up in the air i got to put it up on jack stands so the cherry picker will fit underneath because this thing is pretty low it'll hit the control arms once it's up in the air on jack stands i'm going to use the floor jack to support the transmission so we can uh put it together but first we got to get our stan our engine off the stand and we got to put our flex plate on it so let's get the engine off and get the flex plate off of it or get the flex plate put onto it i mean let's do it come on we got the engine mounts put on it on both sides i think i'm going to do some sort of torque limiter on the driver's side here because i think this thing's going to rip apart these poor rubber mounts i don't know if these things are ready for what's going to happen to them i want to get the cherry picker high enough so the little the bottom of this adjuster here a little adjuster hoist clears the carburetor so if i tilt it or do any movement it's not going to be bashing anything i got to watch my chains here while we come in the cherry picker has a hard time with the four-legged engine stands seems like the spacing is just right but they don't really get along with each other and i like to go to the outside of the cylinder heads so they're all in the same spot on the links here so i always count them make sure i'm in the same link so the engine sits as level as possible because if you get it the engine off and it's cocked side to side it makes it harder to line up the bell housing on the transmission on the dowels and everything everything together so you want to have the engine as level as possible so i do the same amount so i did it in the fourth hole so i need to do the same fourth hole and then the same bolt hole on the outside of the head if you had your valve covers on here you'd want to watch your your chain placement you might want to go a little bit more in you still want to make sure that the chain is not going to catch your valve covers and bend the corner of them you can put this thing up off of the tray picker or off of the stand i mean with the cherry picker this four-legged one's a little hard like i said it wants to hit the cherry picker but we're off the ground i'm gonna take off all the bolts here that go to the bell housing of the block the truck with the hood off of it and everything we should be able to go in there pretty straight so we don't need much tilt on the engine but we do we need a little bit because the trains can be jacked up so we'll just start it out with a little bit of tilt not too crazy though so it's aiming towards the transmission so i want to make sure that there's no debris or anything dirt where it's going to sit up against the crankshaft so it sits nice and flat if you had a manual just a good time to put your bushing in or your bearing or anything i mean this is automatic just wanna make sure the inside's good i might put a little bit of anti-seize in here just so the converter will slide in and not hang up got the flex plate here we're gonna be running on this thing this is just an internal balance there's no counterweight on here so 400 small block would have a counterweight on it you just want to note that the raised the raised parts go towards the converter not towards the engine and then it has a little um lip right here goes away from the engine also you want to make sure the flat side goes to the crank you can see it has a extra hole here some of them will have a dowel pin this just has a hole so you want to line it up with the hole to hold the hole so the hole the hole the hole well what was it what did he say uh he said um well and we got a set of arp flex plate bolts and i already put the lube on here an arp wants to use their lube and then they want 85 foot pounds on the torque on these things there's a couple different ways you can do this you can use a holder or you can some sort of pry bar so what i like to do is i just get a just a bolt and i put him on the bell housing hole one of the bolt holes here for the belt housing get a decent amount of threads on it and it's easier to be on the side that you can use you know your leverage so you're pushing down to torque it and then you can just use a screwdriver and you can come over here and you hold the ring gear and you can torque it it's it's the engine's gonna try to rock a little bit so you gotta be careful with it you could set it on the ground if you if it gets to be a pain oh there it is oh man down man down miss i'm gonna wipe off my my mess i got going on here my excess excess lube we don't want stuff flinging everywhere get the majority of it off so i got the truck up on jack stands now i got the the floor jack is holding the i got to climb in here i gotta gotta gotta go all in gotta climb in here and get these studs out i can see what they got going on gotta kick his car knock out her two by four so you can see now that i jacked up this it kind of pulled it crooked so i'm gonna let me get it try to get it over here a little straighter doesn't seem like there's much holding it pick up on the and scoot the jack over get a little more on the driver's side see now it's a little more balanced and centered in here so we can line up the engine bell housing cleaned off converters all the way in got our starter wire tucked out of the way you don't want nothing to fall in between the bell housing we've got our fuel line we're just going to tuck that down here because we're going to finish dealing with that so everything looks good now so now we're going to go up with the engine swing it in get it set in here [Music] [Music] so as you can see we got the engine installed it went pretty smooth just had a little bit of a problem lining up this side engine mount but before we put the engine in here this mount was pretty much just sitting there i wasn't even tightening i tightened it down but it must have been in the wrong spot so once i loosened it up just adjusted a little bit everything lined up great training just needed a little bit of finagling to get it to line up on the dowel pins but everything went in there's pretty smooth somebody added this plate here on the inside of the frame so it makes it really close to the fuel pump but the fitting i had on the inside here was a straight and it pretty much came out straight into this plate so i had to take the fitting out i just barely got it out of there i'm gonna put a 90 in on the on the inlet side and the fuel line it's going to be kind of aiming inward a little bit so that it's going to have to the hose is going to have to do a little swoop back over to the frame i throw the alternator on it right now i got it right here we've got a new power master i loosen this up a little bit because it's a tight fit coming in here tighten up our lower bracket again got the upper bracket here got a nice chrome one and this one is a longer longer one there's a couple different styles some go to the intake this one goes to the thermostat housing you can see we'll go to thermostat housing and then we've got to put a little bit of a spacer in here and it comes with something came with i can't remember the alternator came with it just came with it something oh the water pump came with it water pump came with a couple different spacers for the different options so i'm gonna put this in here just just uh to get it started then we'll get our alternator bolts in here to hold this side of it these are the two spacers that the water pump came with we got a little thinner one and a fatter so the fatter one looks like it's going to be the one i got me a nice bow tie bolt here we found with the pile of the box of bolts of this thing we're going to sneak this that one in here line it up with a water pump oh look at that huh look at that that nice bow tie there we go now we got an alternator all right well i'm gonna get to work now finishing up the i'm gonna get the power steering on it the driver's side header and exhaust the whole deal and fix this fuel fill line we'll show you what we got going on hopefully we'll have the push rods we're gonna get the rockers on it valve covers it's gonna be like two seconds go like that you'll be right back got some work done on the on the old truck here or engine after we got it in right now we want to concentrate on the rockers and everything the valve covers want to get finished sealed up so the push rods came in for the engine they're a standard small block chevy length we went with the trick flow brand and this the stock length is a seven inch eight hundred thousand long and this push rod here is a 80 000 thick wall and it's a one piece all chromoly it's really nice push rod no sense of skimping when you got a full roller rocker and guided plates and everything else so so we got the rockers here you can see we got all the other um rockers and everything all done and adjusted all the other valves i saved these last two here so i got both of the push rods in here when you slide them in you kind of gotta feel the lifter has a little cup you can wiggle it and feel it sitting in the cup because you can't get them cocked in here it's a little bit harder with the guide plates but you still can i don't know where the cam is on the lobe i don't know if it's open or closed so we'll figure that out when we go so it doesn't matter where it's at so we got both both the um push rods in and you see i've dumped oil on here and then i also added a little bottle of it's like a cam breaking oil it has high zinc lubricant to help with the in general you want to run it but it's good for the camshaft the tappa cams it's good to have a higher zinc oil like synthetics have a little more but you don't want to run a synthetic on a break-in so the oil i'm running is is just normal 5 520 um non-synthetic oil with a bottle of the the break-in that's why it looks a little different here than just having oil in it so after i get both push rods in here i'll put the rockers on here and you can see it's all all lubed like i said i dumped oil over it and you can see these for the four rollers here or any rocker other than stock if it has a fulcrum in it here you can see you can put it on upside down the bottom side doesn't have a spot for the the nut and then the what should be the top side has a little relief there for the nut to sit in and and tightens it down properly so you got to make sure that guys to the top we'll slide it on here everything should just you know line up nice the guy plate should hold it all straight and should be nice and snug so this particular engine has a hydraulic tappet cam in it so the the lifter pumps up and that's what takes the lash out of the of the rockers but you don't want to tighten it up so much to the point that you can bottom out the lifter and i like to keep it a little bit looser i guess you would say in the lifter and so i don't collapse it as much as like the book or the manual or whatever factory recommends because of other other reasons but so the way i do it is is no matter where it's at as i start out is i just run it down to see how you know you got the slop so i just run it down by hand until all the slop's out of there but not to the point that i'm i'm tightening down collapsing the lifter so i'll do both of that same same way and then i have all the spark plugs out of it on both sides all the spark plugs are out so it's easier to turn over by hand so now i'm going to go over i'm going to turn it over by hand and then i'm going to recheck it until i do a full circle along the way so i'll do you know 90 degree 90 degree 90 degree 90 degree check check the rockers and then take all the all the lash out so that just snug just like that but i'm not collapsing the lifter so i can use a little ratchet because i took the spark plugs out there's no compression so it's easier to turn over so let's come down here and i just turn it over the only thing that you got your resistance is the valve springs so we turned it over so no no lash no slop yet we'll go some more so now the intake or the exhaust just closed see now we got some slop in there it's not both snug continue turning it over so we made it all the way around i think i wasn't watching pretty sure made a full circle already so now i got my my tool here this is just a fancier way to do it you can use a wrench and an allen so i'll do a 90 turn so bring it over here and then i'll bring down my jam nut and then as when it touches then i'll ram it both together so it's pretty much going like three quarters so you're almost going a half a turn and that's all that's all running right there so when i when i fire it up should be good to go should be no no ticking no nothing ready to run now i want to put the um passenger valve cover on it so i'm just going to run um just the gasket that came in the gasket set just a cork replacement gasket these heads make it really nice because they have the raised valve cover rail on it and they're really wide and flat over stocks it's really nice because the valve cover gasket just sits on there so we're running a tall valve cover just to make it easier to clear all the rockers and everything so we got tall valve cover just a chevrolet deal these are uh used used valve covers that we picked up we just cleaned them up like brand new for the pcv valve on the passenger side so there's a smaller grommet and the valve covers are baffled but yeah they're great great used huge deal so we're gonna put the valve cover on here and then to help because those are just uh you know the tin steel valve covers we have the little hold downs that that spread the load out a little bit if you leave the the hardware the bolts a little bit loose you can kind of wiggle the valve cover and it should sit down nice and nice and flat if you wanted to you can come around here with a mirror and make sure that it's sitting in there right we already got our pcv line and everything on here let's go ahead and plug that in there we go the passenger side all sealed up all right so i'm going to go ahead and prime it now you can see how how much uh how much runs out of it here with the valve cover off let's see what happens let's go ahead and prime it so i'm going to ease into it because um there's still air in the system and i don't want to just ram on it and have it shove air like crazy so i want to fill the oil filter and stuff first and then once it bogs down and then i'll go wide open wide open with the drill and let's see what happens and we got oil pressure we had an oil leak around the oil filter so i changed the oil filter looks like it's from the gasket i don't know so we'll see if this one leaks too so let's try try it again here all right we're starting to get a top end now [Music] one eternity later looks like we got it nice and primed so i'm gonna go ahead and take the drill off and take the primer out and we're gonna rock it around to um top dead center this is a distributor that was in the back of the truck which i'm assuming was ran before you could see somebody took out the vacuum advance they got it just locked but i was looking at it and looks like this distributor gear has got some wear to it on the teeth here they just seem to be a little cut down a little excessive wear so i happen to have another distributor gear that's brand new much much nicer much better shape so i'm gonna knock this down at this roll pin out of here and i'm gonna change the gear real quick and then we're gonna throw this distributor in there got my got my distributor all prepped i got it lubed got my gasket on it i put the cap on it i marked where i want to line up the rotor to number one right there the vacuum advance is kind of a reference because that normally goes to passenger side because it kind of throws you off a little bit same same deal we gotta figure out where the drive rod is now i need to walk the drive rod around that looks good right there we got our mark the rotor lines that right up with it kind of see the mark right there you know of all things people never said a word about you walking around the drive rod is it something that's common knowledge i don't know i don't know if it's common knowledge or not it's easier to do it one way clockwise if you try to do it counterclockwise it it um because of the cut of the teeth it it doesn't really work out so you got to go clockwise so yeah if it's if it's passing you gotta go all the way around but yeah i don't know if that's common knowledge or not i don't know good question we got the driver's valve cover put on so both of them are all sealed up done got a new breather put in here got the distributor cap put on it all the wiring is done other than the starter over here we already put the driver's header on it so now we're going to come over we need to put the passenger header on it and then we can put the starter on it and that's the last the last of the wiring and i'll go over the whole wiring and show you how i how i rewired it and set up the fan relay and everything let me get this passenger header on here and i'll go over the whole thing so i got the the header that came off that came with the truck ready to go back in here got to get a wipe down before i put the header in it's easier to get it up in there because it's going to go from the bottom if you take out the spark plugs you don't need to take them all out i left the number two cylinder the front one in there because the header tube will go we'll go around it it won't affect it so i took the three out i'm gonna go underneath now i'm gonna snake the head up in there got the bolts here already got a little anti-seize on the bolts because they're going into aluminum heads insurance if you ever have to take it apart or anything it makes your life a lot easier so that's got the header set set in position so i come up top here we'll grab it and get a watch that fan fan switch back there but these are pretty simple small tube headers are pretty pretty tight tightly ran it's kind of nice having a temperature or the fan switch back there because you almost you just set the header there for a minute you see the gasket has the notches in the front and back so you put two of the bolts in the header and you just slide the gasket down in there get the front and back one started take our gasket slide it down in there and put the rest of the bolts in we put our three spark plugs back in it and we just just for a baseline i went with the spark plugs um what they recommend for these cylinder heads this is a part part number that they recommend you just have a washer on them a crush washer so i don't i don't get them tight cram it down crush it i just snug it down a little over snug i guess just you can feel it starting to crush the washer so now i got the header all finished up so this is a starter that we're going to be running on here it's a gear reduction just a summit summit gear reduction starter and it comes with the bolts and the shims you can shim how far the starter gear is out sticks out and you can shim it how far from the block and everything so it's pretty nice but for right now i'm just going to put it all the way up all the way up tight no shims we wanted to we wanted to show putting it on but it's it's all shadowed and stuff because the header's in the way we've been easier to show on the ninja stand or something but we'll go over the wiring once we get it on but it just has the the battery battery cable and then the solenoid wires is all all the hookup on it so before i go ahead and put gas in this thing give it a give it a you know crank give it a start i just want to do a quick overview of the accessories of the of the engine and what we did we converted it back to a mechanical pump and i didn't want to run a rubber line all the way up so i ran a hard line for the most part i just did little short rubbers on each side had to pump the same way so i ran a hard line down and then i replaced the fuel line on the truck so i did the same thing i ran a the same stainless line 3 8 i ran it right here almost to the pump so it's got a little bit of flex because of the engine you know vibration and then i ran it all the way back almost to the tank and i put it inline filter back by the tank we added a one wire alternator this is a 100 amp alternator and then we went with an 8 gauge so just keep in mind if you do a higher amp alternator you need to put a bigger charge wire on it because you know you can't cram the voltage through a cute little wire we did a 16-inch cooling fan if i remember right the fan's like 3000 cfm 3300 cfm i think it draws around 30 amp so we set it up we did it with the circuit breaker we got a 40 amp circuit breaker and then a 40 amp relay the relay is controlled by a temperature switch in the coolant so when it gets to 195 the fan comes on and then it cools down to 185 and the fan goes off and i have it set off the setup that when you turn the engine off it'll turn the fan off you can set it up that it runs with the key off but all you're doing is cooling the radiator if you don't have any circulation it's pointless to keep the fan running if the engine's not not running unless you have you know electric water pump but we don't we have the mechanical we added the ground strap like we showed in the hole that goes for the drive rod for the fuel pump we put the bolts in there for the ground strap over the frame here and then we went to the frame for the battery cable up to the battery so all the grounds are tied together this truck still has the factory grounds so it has the ground from the frame to the body and then there's there's some up front here they ground it to the core support and stuff because um it's rubber mounted the frame is rubber mounted and the core supports rubber mounted so from the factory it has little ground straps that pretty much go so you can ground through the rubber so those are still on here normally i would go engine engine to firewall on another ground strap because of the rubber mounts but this has a factory stuff so i didn't do that on this i used the factory wires these ones came with the truck it turned out okay the brand and everything seemed all right so hopefully they're all right they've been sitting for a while but there's the plugs that came with it i didn't pick those out the oil is full so we checked that before we started it we didn't do the vacuum fill on this one like on the nova because uh it doesn't have the heater so i just don't feel it'd probably work but i think it's okay just doing it it's a little tricky because of the thermostat and there's no bypass because of the heater so we might have a problem but i topped off the coolant the power steering brackets a little goofy i think but that's the way they had it set up i'm assuming on the other engine because that's way lined up i i found this spacer i didn't have any of the mounting deal so i added that spacer but it looks like i mean it's sturdy we wound up getting new new belts i like to run a little bit shorter on the adjustment there's no sense of having alternator way out here so i brought it down i like to have it i mean this is probably hair shorter i like to have in the middle that's pretty much an overview of the setup the cooling system and the fuel transformation i say yeah it's definitely different um we don't have any pictures or anything of of what it was like before because you know we never saw it with the engine in it when you're starting a fresh engine especially with a tappet cam you want to make sure not to let it idle so as you'll see when we start it i'm going to hold the idle up you don't want to hold it at a steady rpm you kind of want to vary it you pretty much want to keep it under like 3500 rpms but you want to vary it between like two and five or two thousand twenty five hundred rpms like 500 rpms you wanna you wanna vary the engine speed you don't wanna just hold it there so hopefully everything is set up that it's able to run long enough to to get to temperature to get to the thermostat opening we're gonna try to set the timing everything while it warms up and keep an eye on the temperature because we might have a little bit of an air pocket and uh yeah goof on me on my little zip tie deal here um this was all this was all torn apart when we got the truck so something's missing here we're gonna have to get a hold down i think it's supposed to be a rubber this thing's all tweaked so i had to put this little zip tie on here the hose kind of holds it up a little bit holds the radiator back but i put this guy on here until we figure out this this whole down deal so yeah i think we're ready to get ready to fire we're gonna pour the gas in it put the charger on it let's get a funnel pour some gas in there i don't know how i feel about this let me see let me see here are you sure about that [Music] you have to hold the funnel then i can't hold the funnel at the same time i haven't messed with the heart they've had four hands [Music] let's do it right [Music] okay [Music] [Music] [Music] a few moments later so i had to as a tooth off on the distributor i had to advance this it was a little so i thought i thought i was lined up on number one so i had the distributor here and it was a little that's why i had um cough back to the carburetor so now we've advanced to the tooth putting the cap back on it then we're gonna we're gonna run it again here we had her just want to fix it now before we got too hot because we weren't going to leave it there [Music] actually i shut it down the cooling fan came on it came on a little late but the temperature was climbing so obviously the top hose here is still cold but you could tell it's gurgling it's one of the problems when you don't have a the heater to bypass to get the air out of it the thermostat is a little stupid until you get the air pocket out of it so we gotta let it sit here and gargle a minute and then it'll get the coolant temperature up or the water temperature up around the thermostat and you'll feel it start to open and then we can we're able to top it off we'll run it again but it's definitely a lot happier now that we moved the distributor a tooth you can see it fired right up that time so that's what i thought i thought i had it in the right spot so i had a distributor here and it's too far [Music] so [Music] [Music] uh [Music] [Music] he's a runner look at that what do you guys think i think it runs amazing that's between the thought again carburetor everything's like it seems like the perfect size i got the timing set we're gonna give it a good drive make sure you know we're gonna check the plugs make sure that's not too too lean but it seems really close it's really good can we throw the air cleaner on it there's a couple things we still have to deal with the kick down cable we got the bracket in here or the cable in here and everything but this is supposed to be spring loaded in the when you pull it wide open it's supposed to it's supposed to be pulled back for some something's going on the that it's not going back so this adjustment's not done yet i got to pull the pan off on the it's got a horrible training leak anyways so we got to deal with that still but as far as the engine i'd say it's done we'll drive it i think it's right where it needs to be but we'll check it out so i don't know if you guys noticed didn't have any any valve lash no ticking anything going on in here you can see how i adjusted the rockers that is right right where it needs to be lifters pumped up there's no clatter no nothing and and people made a comment about um soaking the lifters you can see after priming it and running it once it gets low pressure there's no there's no tick in it you can do it either way if you want to soak them soak them if not you don't have to i mean after priming it give them a good lube you won't have any any ticking when you started no no clutter so i gotta find my there it is i gotta find my wing nut we're gonna set this thing on the ground put the hood on it we're gonna have to get a battery this battery we can't bring it back to life it's it's it's dead we tried try giving it the shock two three times and it won't come back no heartbeat oh yeah a little fun fact on this on this engine well now just pretty much the block blocking rods is out of the old uh 67-day c10 pretty funny stuff so this is the one that we pulled out of it dave wanted to rebuild it this is what it turned into fun fact pulled it out it's like kindergarten now i graduated high school yeah it's awesome it's all grown up look at that man maybe even did some junior college i think the only thing that's the same as the block and the and the rods everything else has been replaced make sure you leave me a comment subscribe like share i do it all man come back for the next one

Channel: ZHP Garage

Views: 48,135

Keywords: How to, Cars, Car work, Mechanic, Master Mechanic, Classic Cars, Old School, Carburetor, Garage Restore, Restoration, Mobile, Fixed, ZHP Garage, Ziegler Garage, ZHP, Ziegler Racing, Street Car, Race Car, Drag Car, Car Shows, Classics, Fabrication, Welding, 350 SBC, Small Block Chevy, Chevy, 350 Small Block Chevy, 350 SBC Build, Engine Build, Small Block Chevy build, 66 C10, Chevy C10, C10 trucks, C10 build, Engine swap, Engine install

Id: Hw-64tJGQ6o

Length: 38min 36sec (2316 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 04 2022