Building a 350 Small Block Chevy Start to Finish - Part 3

[Applause] [Music] you guys ready for this let's go the day that you never thought would arrive part three on a 350 small block chevy build what start to finish this is part three well i think that's what comes after two right three comes after two okay we're at three yeah okay so it's funny we started this build not so much as a how-to but we were just doing it just to do it we thought it was fun to record it and you know show it so it kind of turned into a how-to so i guess we'll record the next couple videos as a how-to style whatever i don't know this is how i stand and hold the camera and this is how he puts bolts on an engine he's a parts changer that's all he is just a parts changer yes sir so there will there will be a part four after we do the final assembly on the engine right now we're gonna show us installing it into a truck that we're gonna go into more next video we're not gonna show too much of this video you can see the hood of it right there you saw the parts right here but let's um go over them a little bit more describe them come on come on all right come on so we finally got the parts here to finish up our little 350. we're waiting on the cylinder heads and and the arp head bolts actually i was trying to get the head bolts in a in a six point head but man they're taking forever so that's why i got them in 12 points so it's the same same head or same bolt ordered them with the 12 point just so i can finally get him i don't know what's going on with the arp taking taking forever but we got it we're gonna start out here we got the the head surface and the block surface all cleaned up and dried we're gonna grab our head gaskets here and you can see that i have a couple sets of head gaskets i got these are just the original style stock replacements and these are set up um they work good for for stock deal but these are set up for cast iron block and then cast iron head so it has the same expansion rate so i kind of upgraded the head gaskets here they're still a fill pro but they're a higher quality they got the fire ring here and these are set up for aluminum head cast iron block so it kind of works with the with the whole expansion rate and everything just make sure there's nothing nothing crazy on them set them up here on the dowels they're gonna be a little snug on the dowels so we'll grab our grab our steel underhead and these are just uh we went with the trick flow heads these are 175s they're kind of smaller of the of the cylinder heads you could you could go with and they have a smaller chamber because the 350s are always seem to be lower compression with stock heads or an open open head i'm pretty sure these were the 58 double check but these are 58 cc combustion chambers you can see they're really really really small and then one 175 cc intake ports and then they have a 1.25 valve spring on it hydraulic tap it valve spring and you see they have provisions for screwing studs and guide plates that we're going to be installing after we get them on and you see all this riding mumbo jumbo on here that we got going on here good old craig at race engine system set up these heads for us so we took them apart just double check the valve spring um height and open spring pressure and everything to make sure it's going to work with our cam so that's what all that numbers are normally it doesn't have all those numbers on there they've been disassembled cleaned and they're ready to go and you can see that it has the extra bolt here depending on the ear on the year of your engine you can run it with the um exhaust manifold some of the manifolds use a wider bolt instead of the narrower ones a little tidbit on the cylinder heads so we're going to set it up here on the dowels so set our set our head here on the dowels and they'll sit here a minute then we're going to get our our bolts ready um all these bolts go into the water jacket on the small block chevys so i like to use the arp lube on the washer so we'll put the airp on the on the under the head or the bolt and on the washer where it goes to the head but on the threads i'm going to put some teflon paste on it to seal them all into the water jacket because the coolant can come up the threads and get into the crankcase part of it so i'm going to teflon paste all the all the threads here hopefully i got enough then you can see that the washers have a little relief cut on one side and the other side is just squared off i like to put the relief cut side to the shoulder of the bolt will sit flatter against the bolt instead of the squared offside going against it it can get caught in the radius and not really sit flat got them all all prepped up here so i'm going to put them in put them in the holes and one thing you have to note is all these all the lower ones here are all the same same length they're pretty pretty self-explanatory but these upper ones you see there's a couple different lengths here so this one here see how they're shorter so the in they're in the into are the shorter shorter bolt than all the other ones are they're longer little notes so the shorter ones go on the end longer ones going inside there's another short one here somewhere here it is here's the other end see that's shorter i'm going to use my little electric ratchet here this is a quarter inch i have red you know reduced to a quarter just to get these snug arp wants their bolts torqued to 70 foot pounds so these are all going to be 70. so i'm going to do the normal sequence of how i i torque it so i start in the center and i do like a circular work my way out so i'll start in the dead center here now i'm gonna grab the torque wrench i don't like to go just start out at 70. so i do i work my way up to 70. all right so that's my second pass so the way i i did it is um i snugged it down with a little ratchet and then i went 30 foot pounds and then now i just went 50. so you got to be careful because so this my torque wrench here it goes to 75 but it's the most accurate in the middle so it goes from 5 to 75 this particular torque wrench but it's most accurate in the center so when i go if i go to 70 i'm at the end of the scale on this torque wrench so what i'm going to do now is i'm going to take this same extension and i'm going to step it up to a half inch torque wrench so this torque wrench here starts at 50 and then it goes up to 250 so i'm going to be kind of towards the lower end of the scale but i'll be up a little bit so i think it'll be more accurate to use to step it up to this torque wrench than the max the little 3 8 out so i'm going to go to the half inch here i'm going to do my final at 70 like it likes and you could if you wanted to do them all at just 70. but i like to do it more evenly bring it down and step it up as i go and then on my final i'll do it i'll check them all one more time at 70. so i got a reducer here to use the same socket then i'm going to go around now and do the final the final torque at 70. let's do even constant pressure and kind of keep an eye on how far you're going it should all be pretty pretty even on the on the throw then i'll go around it one more time and just double check and it should click right away there we go so i want to clean up all this this lube that's on the bolts here but you'd want to clean it up if you were going to paint it either way you'd want to clean it but i'm going to mask this off here and i'm just going to paint the block when i'm all done putting it together so i want to wipe up all this um little arp lube on these washers and the head of the bolt someone's on the inside i'm not worried about it's just gonna get washed into the oil when you change oil you get all the crap out of it there we go we're gonna repeat the same deal go over the other side same thing man if it's only that easy huh just go together so we got a little work done here on the good old google 350. we see we got it painted looks nice looks nice we got the guide plates on it and the screw and studs so these heads came with a 3 8 3 8 screwing stud but the rockers we have are some hand-me-downs from another engine that we were doing so we got 7 16 rockers and change of studs out so we changed the studs that came that are also used with the rocker so we got 7 16 screw studs now and then our rockers four roller rockers and our jam nuts we had to get a different push rod the push rods we had weren't the right length we had a couple sets and some were too short and well once that was too short one set was too long so we had to get the set of rockers so we're kind of on hold on the rockers you can see on the difference in the lengths you can see where you can cut the rollers on the stem so you can see in theory if this was a short too short of a push rod it's at the top of the stem and then you can see if you come up here we got too long of a push rod we're at the bottom of the stem so it just messes it up when it when it rocks so if it's already at the bottom of the stem and you go full open then it could possibly roll off the off the side of it and same on the on the other end so you want to be you get a check to check to throw we can show you after we get the right push rods when they show up but we're kind of on hold on this we're gonna have to deal with this probably in the car or in the truck it depends on when they're going to get here so that might might possibly be in part four depends on shipping i try to get them quick but all the shipping is all caddy wampus right now so we're gonna go ahead and put the intake on it we got the intake and this is the pulley we've got the crank pulley on it this is the one that's being used um in the truck this this is what came with it for his drive it's just a long water pump drive and just a triple triple groover we got our dampener bolt in here we got it all torqued up torque the dampener bolt to 55 foot pounds other three bolts for the pulley are smaller than three eighths i did i think i did like 30 foot pounds on those just wanted to have nice and even they have a lock washer on them so that's all good the timing pointer i got i accidentally ordered i got it for the right size dampener but for big block chevy so the alignment holes didn't line up so i had to order another timing pointer so that's pretty much where we're at here so we're gonna we're gonna put the intake on it already wiped it all up i left this with no after i painted it i wiped this all off to get any paint or any residue off of it because i want to have this nice and clean and dry for the silicone to to bond to it seal properly i don't want any leaks at that bad boy and then so i'll have a little bit of bear in the back back here not a big deal then we're going to put the oil pressure center in it that also came with the truck for his gauges he's got a decode uh deco digital dakota digital dash in the truck so his center came with the the truck so that's what's going to be going in here so if you watch some of the other videos you can see we've done we do the same every time we've done this over and over so i set the intake on here with the gaskets to get an idea how thick i need to go with the silicone just so you don't have you know excessive it just oozes everywhere make it look like you know what you're doing so i'm just gonna run my my silicone here i'm gonna kind of shove a little bit more in the corners here where the head gasket comes just so i can't have oil sneaking through that little crack and then i'm gonna run my my bead here in the front and in the back i'll set my gaskets in here then i've got to do a little dab where the gaskets are going to kind of mess it up a little bit and then yeah i'll do a little bit around the water jackets here just to hold the hole it kind of holds the gasket in place this doesn't just doesn't have any impurities because it's a new cylinder heads but it's definitely not going to hurt anything like i said it holds the holds the gaskets in place so we just do a little a little bit around here and again be careful not going too too close to the ports this has kind of smaller water ports these gaskets here you can see that are bigger so if you get too close to these little cute little water ports you won't even be touching the gasket it won't be holding anything in place you want to do this all in one continuous continuous bead so like i said i'm gonna shove it in the corner here and then i'm gonna do a nice bead here consistent all the way across kind of dabbing it down into the block bad luck so we got to move our silicone up here so we got enough pressure to do the next go around you want to set it on here you can see where it goes but it goes on the front side of the oil gauge here so you don't want to go on the back side here just just on on the front where these holes are at these holes are designed for the rubber gaskets that holds them in place so they don't squish out you want to put that's another good reason to put the intake on and give you a good reference of where everything goes well like so grab our grab our gaskets again you can see that it has an up so this side up so if you have it upside down got no no reference point so make sure gaskets are going one way so we're gonna squish it in here to our little corner beads try not to let it slide down and mess up all your nice silicone and center it up on the holes on your bolt holes squish it in there so it stays in place for a minute you can see when i put the gasket on here see how it kind of messed up the the corner here so we just want to put a little dab back in that corner to make sure that the corner of the intake seals up so just squish a little a little bubble there just make sure you don't have any oil sneaking out of the corner of the gasket it's good to put the silicone on first because you can see it squishes out from behind the gasket it's kind of hard to tell now you can see a little bit of silicone that splooges over you can wipe it before you put the intake on and then on the top here once you torque it down you can clean it up afterwards so you don't have any gasket or any silicone squishing out it bothers you to have this here underneath the gasket little screwdriver or something just scrape the majority of it you want blobs of silicone in your cooling system so double check that make sure you don't have a big old blob in the corner let's get the majority of it double check your gaskets make sure you're all centered in your bolt holes the gasket's staying in place looks good and grab the intake got our used intake here and that we showed before so we already wiped off the the gasket surfaces everything's cleaned up it's going to have a little bit of extra residue on there that's that's okay you don't want to hit it with your buzzy wheel and try to grind it down so you don't see anything that's that's all right we scraped with a razor blade it's all smooth and flat it'll be just fine we'll double check our gaskets make sure nothing moves but i turned my back everything looks good we're gonna go straight down with it just keep an eye on the on the intake bolts as you come down just bring it down nice and straight set it right down into the gaskets it's got our new new set of stainless bolts here i put a little bit of anti-seize on here that's why i'm putting them on the rag i got a little dab of either stainless bolt and going into aluminum so we'll get a little bit of corrosion on it and it'll seize up in there so i like to put a little bit of anti-seize in there just so you don't have any problem down the road if you ever go to take it back out this eventually i ordered it we'll be getting a bracket here for the turbo 350 kick down cable but for right now i don't have it so i'm just going to put the bolts in all the bolts in torque them down and then we'll deal with loosening that up and re-torquing it after we get the bracket and hopefully if you set it down nice and straight everybody's happy all your bolts just go right in so now i'm gonna go ahead and torque the intake down i'm gonna do it um in stages because i want to draw it all down nice and evenly so right now the torque wrench is just at the lowest it's five foot pounds so i'm just gonna pretty much just just just snug them all right there you go we got them all torqued um i guess 30 foot pounds on the intake bolts with the cast iron head i did it at 25 i think 30 is a little little much five foot pounds i don't think anybody's going to notice so now all the all the silicone that's going to squish out squished out so i'm going to get that little screwdriver and that towel a little shop towel and i'll wipe all this out and you can see the silicone in the front here see how you have it nice and even that's what you're looking for when you're all said and done nice consistent even bead of silicone the back is going to ooze out a little bit more just because of the the way the intake is and it's a little bit smaller but you still you want it nice and consistent through the whole deal and when you put the silicone on you want to put it on the block as you can see right here on the intake how it overhangs the block so if you put it on the intake like on the front here thinking you have in the right spot and you put the intake on there then it's gonna miss the block and you're gonna have a big old leak so make sure you put it on the block not the intake so let me grab a rag clean this up here so i got the silicone all cleaned up here and so it's got electric gauge we put the sender in the intake here for the electric gauge i got the oil pressure center put in it here for the oil pressure gauge we didn't put a distributor in it we put the primer in here so once we get the push rods in it and everything we get the engine primed so this is a thermostat housing that's for the for the truck i thought it'd be kind of cool to do it i just it's aluminum so i just wire wheeled it got it all turned out pretty trick but i think it's a little too much it doesn't really go with the flow so i think i'm gonna paint it black so we're gonna paint this guy black so kind of tie in with the block so we're gonna paint this once it's dry we'll get that put on that's where we're at rain on parts waiting on parts so we'll get some parts we'll get this painted a few moments later well it's been a few hours and our parts have arrived so we got our thermostat so we painted our thermostat housing here we got our thermostat installed it turned out really tricky i think painted black was definitely the way to go and then we got our fan switch installed here so the way i set it up is so i have a 180 degree thermostat and the fan switch will come on at 195 and then turn itself off at 185 so the fan is what's controlling the operating temperature keeps the engine at temperature so the thermostat gets it to temperature and the fan is controlling it keeping it at a steady temperature so that's why i set it up on this on this bad boy so this is gonna be our fan switch here we're gonna run the wires down with the starter but we'll show all that later part four part four that's that's down that's down next so we're gonna get our fuel pump installed so we got our we got a carter carter fuel pump we got our drive rod our adapter plate we painted it already so it doesn't look like you just put it all together and just went crazy with the rattle can we actually did it separately so first we got to put our rod in here this is our fuel pump fuel pump drive rod and you can see that it's got some squiggly lines on here you can hold it with a screwdriver or you can hold it with something so this upper hole here on the front of the block goes all the way through into the into the drive rod hole you could say so if this bolt is out you can stick a screwdriver or a longer bolt in here you can put the rod in there and it holds it up so it doesn't slide down on you while you put the fuel pump in there so i'm gonna put some assembly lube on here get some on the cam side put some on the shaft there's a void in here where it doesn't do anything or it comes out of the block so you pretty much want to worry about the side where it goes in the block and then the camshaft drag a little heavy on the camshaft already got all the surface here cleaned up and dry so we're going to put our our rod in here for the most part if you use a thick enough assembly lube or something it'll hold but see how it works this way out so you got to watch it make sure it doesn't fly out of you so we're going to hold that to a second we're going to get our adapter we have a gasket that goes on the back side of the adapter and i like to leave all this loose until i get everything everything on it then we're going to grab our fuel pump then we have the fuel pump gasket so i'm going to put some assembly lube here on the fuel pump little plunger where it rides on the shaft got a guy got a guy building a house next door you got to bear with me you got to watch this so you make sure your little rod is all the way up and then you want to stick the plunger down below the rod then you can bring it up to the to the block here if you're having a hard time starting the bolts or if the the rod is all the way down you can spin your engine over because it's got the lobe on the cam shaft it'll bring the rod up to give you a little more room now that the fuel pump's on here you're gonna have to use a wrench on these bottom ones if you want to eyeball it or you can get these bolts in here to hold the plate straight and you can tighten them up ahead of time either way either way it works so now we got our fuel pump all tied this is the bolt that i'm going to use i'm using star washer so i have a good ground this is gonna be my ground strap so i'm just gonna put this in here so it plugs the hole for one and for two i know where my bolts out that i'm used for that you wanna you wanna use a short one because like i said it'll go it'll go into the rod so you can see i just got a little a little stubby just a little short guy just long enough to put a cable on there now we're gonna put our carburetor on here so let's take this tape back off so you can see the intake here is double double drilled so the quadrijet is more narrow and the early afps is a narrow deal so the holley's is a the further out i put a little anti-seize on the bolts so we put our studs in here on the outer bolts i'm just going to snug them down nothing nothing crazy because you can crack you can split the intake so just bring them down to the where the threads run out snug them down in there so they're all even so on this one here i'm gonna go with the holley it's gonna run a little holley 600 it's a little uh it's a little 4160 a little single inlet single single metering block just a little 600 vacuum secondary carburetor which is more than enough for this this deal i think i think the majority of people over carburete their applications so carbonate over carbonate like uh orange crush yeah it's over carbonated so you see a quadrajet is a spread bore flange and then a holley is a square square flange you can see the gasket will cover all the way so to see it'll seal up on the same intake got our little 600 here slide it on got some flat washers here on the carburetor you never want to use a lock washer on your on your carburetor this has a lock nut either way flat is the best way to go no no no lock washers you always want to make sure that your carburetor is able to go open and closed no binding so we got our bracket for our kick down cable so we're gonna put our kick down cable on here and then we can see where we can put our return spring i like to put it in this coil bracket let me grab we're gonna loosen this back up now put our kick down cable bracket on here i'm going to loosen these two bolts up here i'm going to slide i've got little notches here so it slides back in and then i'm going to re-torque we torque the back of the intake here plenty of room for the valve cover cable will come up plenty of room for the cable i don't know if i showed it or not but i got the distributor hold down here i just got it in place here so i don't lose any of the parts it's just you don't need to have the primer held down but i just got this here just so everything's in one spot and i got the oil pressure deal put put back into place i had to move it loosen it up a little bit to get to the bolt i got the return spring bracket on here the return spring i shimmed it up a little bit to get it over the intake this this is a performer rpm so it's a taller taller intake so we got the carburetor on it cardboard is good to go let's put the starter on it i'm gonna put a starter on it let me get the starter we'll put the starter on so we're doing starters what i'm saying is we're going to do the starter 12 seconds later i guess the starter didn't make it to the cart it didn't make it to the didn't make it to the checkout so we don't have a starter but i do have some spark plugs so i'm gonna put the spark plugs in here to seal up the hole you see we got some angle plug angle plug heads so we're just going to put these in your hand tight to seal up the cylinders so we just have a high flow i think it's mr gasket cast iron uh long water pump we got to paint it still we're gonna have to cap this off because this one here it has a heater in it but i'm not sure the condition of it i don't think it was hooked up before so i'm not gonna hook it up so this one here on the intake would be heater and then this one would be heater but i'm just gonna cap cap this one we're not using it so this is our long water pump i gotta get a painting before we put it on and then we can put the rest of the bracket and alternator and everything on it all right so give me a couple seconds i'm gonna paint this thing up and put it on got the water pump all painted up here it looks nice we just went with black now we put the water pump on there we gotta add a little bit because it's wet and it kind of stuck to the spray booth so i had to clean it up a little bit so we got the gasket surface here all cleaned up got our new bolts here with our teflon paste on it the ones that go into the water jackets let's go around it and draw it down draw it down evenly i'm just going to go ahead and tighten these by hand if you wanted to torque them be about 30 foot pounds so you can torque them to there we go i did it in black because i got a nice chrome accessories here so we got the lower alternator bracket here we're gonna put on i like the black because it makes everything pop on it this would be the same same deal these are probably about all the same size they're all 3 8 bolts so they'd all be 30 foot pounds if you want to if you want to torque them so i'm gonna wait to put the alternator on because of the engine hoist that i have that's adjustable it goes to four points and i like to go to the cylinder heads so the alternators here just it just gets in the way on this side but before you tighten this bracket you want to make sure that this bracket's got a little bit of play in it and you want to make sure that the bolt is lined up so i'm going to go ahead and put the bolts in here for the this is for the alternator it's got a little spacer on it so that now i know my brackets lined up and then go ahead and tighten down this bracket to the water pump and i know it's all going to be lined up when i put the alternator on it so now we got a bracket on here we got our water pump tight so i'm going to throw the the water pump pulley on it we decided to take off the mechanical fan that was on it and it has some crazy stuff we'll show you in the next video of what they did to the water pump they're having problems with this thing running hot before and i'll show you of why i think it was having a problem so now we're just going to run it just the pulley we're not we're not doing any mechanical fan on this thing just going to have an electric and our water pump stubborn double drilled no no spacer no fan no nothing you always want to make sure in the back here that your bolts aren't too long that they're going to run into the casting of the of the water pump make sure you check it don't just put it on there tighten it up and try to put the belt on there and start it and have the bolts too long and be locked up if you want to if you want to torque these these are 5 16 so these be about 18 foot pounds so there we go so besides the power steering is in the truck we'll deal with that when we get the engine in it and then we'll put the alternator in it after we get it in the truck you can see here that i i put the um the header's a little haggard but these are the headers that were on the truck so that's what's going back on there i'm not sure you know he might want to change him down the road but those are the headers that were on here they've been sitting outside for a while so they're kind of crusty so once we get it started in some temperature and it'll burn off most of this surface surface nonsense but so at this point we're pretty much done with the engine because we're waiting on the push rods to finish up the rocker i just put the spark plugs in finger tight so once we get it engine in in the truck we'll probably get it in here before the push rods show up and then we'll adjust we'll install the push rods get them adjusted put the valve covers on it then we'll put the spark plugs back in it permanently you can prime it now with the push rods out of it but you won't get the oil to the top end because the the oil goes through the lifter up into the rocker so i want to have it all together and then i want to have the valve covers on it before i prime it so the tip of the pushrod comes up right here in the rocker and it sprays the oil out and that's what lubricates the rocker arm so if you have a good enough oiling system it'll pee outside of the valve cover valley here so if you have the valve covers off of it it'll it'll pee so people made a comment about oh it's nice to have the valve covers off because you can see that it gets oiled to the top end trust me you run the oil pump it gets oil to the top end you don't need to have a pee over your inner fender to to see that it has oil so i put the valve covers on it so i don't make a mess so i want to put that on there before i prime it so i'll prime it in the truck this is uh as far as we're going on on the engine at this moment until we get more parts we're gonna move over to the truck we're gonna get it prepped it's got some wiring and some nastiness that we need to deal with before we can put the engine in it so that's we're gonna go on to so make sure you stay tuned man go down like share subscribe leave us a comment what you think of the engine so far what's going on with it make sure you come back see it in the truck we're gonna start it we're gonna drive it tune it you can see see how this thing turned out finally we finally got all the parts gotta come back man come back check it out see you

Channel: ZHP Garage

Views: 66,540

Keywords: How to, Cars, Car work, Mechanic, Master Mechanic, Classic Cars, Old School, Carburetor, Garage Restore, Restoration, Mobile, Fixed, ZHP Garage, Ziegler Garage, ZHP, Ziegler Racing, Street Car, Race Car, Drag Car, Car Shows, Classics, Fabrication, Welding, 350 SBC, SBC, Small Block, Chevy, Small Block Chevy, 350 Small Block Chevy, Engine build, Complete engine, Final assembly, Complete engine build, Engine work, Trickflow heads, Edelbrock intake

Id: XYfFFh1wkdM

Length: 28min 58sec (1738 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 28 2021