Budget Building a Small Block Chevy 350 Part 2: 375-400 Horsepower!

this time on boneyard revivals it's the return of the budget build 350 where she gets a lot more horsepower baby raise hell praise dale [Music] so in one of our previous videos we put together a set of 906 small blocks chevy vortex cylinder heads and you're probably wondering well what are they going on as you all know we're trying to get our 1985 square body chevy ready for hot rod power tour and i decided it was time to rip the budget build 350 back out of the truck and give it some horsepower upgrades so we have our finished 906 vortech heads to replace our swirl port heads we also went ahead and picked out a really nice cam and lifter set off a summit and also got ourselves a vortex specific intake manifold to throw on our budget build 350. so we ripped the 350 out of the truck and took it over to joe's over at the machine shop to give this 350 some more ponies alrighty it's camshaft time i'm going to go over the cam that we actually went this was more of a budget cam this is a summit brand racing cam the part number is sum-1785 it's a hydraulic flat tappet we're putting another hydraulic flat tap it in it the advertised duration is 274 at 274 and the lift is 450 at 450. um and the lsa otherwise known as the lobe separation angle is a 106. now for the duration and the lift you guys are like okay yes it's you know it's a decent cam you know it's got it's pretty good specs the lsa being a 106 half huge win why basically this is summit brands racing cam that's supposed to be relevant to uh like like a thumper uh basically it's supposed to be like a really nice idle um in the sense that it's really choppy and what your lobe separation angle actually is is how the the degrees and how far away your exhaust valve is away from your intake valve the tighter you have that the more overlap you have and basically what overlap is is the amount of time that the exhaust valve and the intake valve are open at the same time stuff that has a much tighter web separation angle is usually really really choppy because it creates a scavenging effect within the engine um a 106 lsa is used in a lot of race applications the reason why i went with a 106 lsa for this engine was because it's going to be a two and a half inch exhaust uh true duals all the way out the back with two and a half inch dynomax race bullets and i wanted this thing to just sound absolutely insane so that's why we went with this cam could have went with a bigger cam with bigger lift and bigger duration but again the application is that this engine's going into the truck for now didn't want to go too crazy and go too big this is gonna be a nice good cam it should have some good low end torque we're basically gonna clean everything up we gotta lube it up and then we're gonna we're gonna slam her in the hole after we check our cam bearings and all that stuff but i just wanted to go over the cam specs with you just to give you an idea of what we're rolling with here but i'm pretty excited about that that should be pretty cool all right another thing we're going to go over quick too is our intake manifold this is the summit brand intake manifold that we talked about before we actually did a video on it if you want to see that i'll link that up here where we did a kind of an overview on it real quick this is actually specifically the vortec intake manifold as you can see the way that the bolts are for our vortech heads more of an rpm performer performer rpm style from the edelbrock line should be pretty should be pretty stout and should work we also have a one inch carb spacer that's a four hole that's going to go on top of this which is going to increase our plenum volume which will also help it out too a little bit so yeah basically that's all of our goodies besides the vortech heads which we're going to be doing throwing the cam in first and then we're going to be throwing on our vortech heads and it's going to be it's going to be good [Music] [Music] so what just happened there is we just found a uh our front cam bearing was wiped out so we're throwing cam bearings in it now too it happens good thing we found it though [Music] seeing how on the new bearings here they actually have it stamped if i can find it the dash dash three right at the end these actually have to go in a specific location so your dash three check it there it can go in three or four and they're all every single one of these are like that so but so that stuff does matter and we're going to make sure that we get it in there right and we're going to have new cam bearings which will solve another issue [Music] now you see that you can look underneath [Music] because basically the oil comes through there and then it comes through that hole and it goes around [Music] looping up our camshaft here kind of a crucial step in a hydraulic flat tap is making sure that you got it all lubed up come on you have to leverage that now because the back is falling yeah and you have a lot of extra weight in the back so you i wonder if i can almost reach in no you're not really oh yeah nice and smooth eh why is it is there are you is it pushing out is that all the lube within the bearing that's all the loop getting cut off remember there's only that two thousands or three thousands of clearance so everything you know when i that that lube was probably a hundred thousand stick on there so just cutting it all off well is it actually is there is there enough on it where it's actually pushing it back out of the bearing and that's why it's coming back or is that you with your the motion of where you see how it filled that chamfered hole with all the loop and just cutting off you can see see now there's only a little just a shine to it because it cut it all off okay that that's why you don't you don't load the there's no reason to get an eighth inch thick because it's cutting it all off so we have a double roller timing set here this isn't the one that actually came off this motor as you guys saw earlier we actually had too much slack in it so i'm gonna be using the one that came out of my dad's engine i'm assuming we're gonna put our uh our gear that goes on our crankshaft on first correct because that side right here it's supposed to it's the chamfer here yeah supposed to go you show them the other side and say there's no it's not and you have the part number there and you actually have your dot there too which helps you line it up till the sound changes did the sound change it did and hand tight right yep find your dog dots up and then you'll take take it back off and then then include the chain okay so there's that there you go see did i go too far see now i went through four one something like that all right that's that's probably gonna be as close you're gonna get it because you're gonna have a little bit of slop back and forth right yeah it's not pulled on the camion either so it'll get a ponter when you put the bolts in okay what you do is you go 50 before so i backed up if you didn't catch that i backed up from my 50. and you always go past it and then come up and what that's doing is taking the slop out of the chain [Music] so we're at 50 okay and our number is what what was that 59 yep 59 it's right next to 60. okay at least that's how they taught me in school right there's a marker behind it right on the bench we're writing it on the bench there's just 59 yep 59 and we're going to rotate past our peak lift which is right there and come back down for 50. and you're going to write the next measurement down trying not to blow it there it's like the cam bearing try to work it in our next measurements 140 145 add them together and then you divide it by two and it should come up with the right number oh no do it right there on the workbench oh you want me to do the math right got my fingers and toes for that 204 okay divided by two divided by two what should that be i do that in my head 102. so you're four degrees advanced software 106 which is exactly where i put it so you're done wow so it wasn't so hard was it no no it wasn't the math part is just what i was never a good math student no you you you add those numbers together and divide it in half and that's your 102. well just to make it look like i i actually was gonna take a picture yeah absolutely so anyway so that's as simple as it gets it's not it's not rocket science it's not rocket science you just need a hundred dollars worth of tools but everybody thinks i mean the old scary one thing we're gonna do we threw it together before but we're gonna pull these bolts out one by one and we're going to put some loctite on them and in the threads here just to make sure they're locked down and then we're also going to torque them i think the torque rating is at i think it's 20 foot pounds we're gonna do it at 22 that's where the torque wrench is set up at just make sure that they're locked down they ain't going nowhere because it would really suck to lose these so we got our hydraulic flat tablet lifters here these are going to be our brand new ones uh we're cleaning them up wiping them off then we're throwing in some of the uh the break-in lube that that's actually on our can we're throwing it on the very bottom to try to help meet the the cam lobe to the bottom of the flat tappet lifter and then we're taking some of this oil over here and we're lubing up the sides of our lifter and then also the lifter board to try to help that because that needs to be smooth and it also needs to be able to spin in there like as you can see that spins these actually spin while they're in that bore we want to make sure they're all lubricated good so we don't wipe out any lifters so that's what we're going to do we're going to do the rest of these get them slammed in there and be in pretty good shape so we got our last one got a goop down the end drop it in that should be in all the way make sure it actually wants to spin oh nope wasn't it all the way and it's spent good good good good all right so i think i said it before but timing chain set double roller that's all in the cam's in there and we have our 906 vortex cylinder heads that we're going to be dropping on here wiped off our deck surface all that stuff so and our brand new gaskets are right there so can be flopping them on taking our cylinder heads and just kerplunk um and we'll be doing all that next all right so we got cylinder head number one on we're over here doing a second one i figured i'd show you what we're doing for the individual uh head bolt holes we're taking our uh loctite head bolt and water jacket sealant and i'm actually putting it on the end of this straw here this is like on the end of the brake clean um like one of those straws and what we're doing here is we're taking a sealant and we're doing like the first few threads that are actually um in the block and then we're also going to go ahead and we're going to do our ow i just hit my elbow off a freaking roller rocker um then we're going to take our actual head bolts and we're going to do all the threads um but first we're going to do the block then we're doing the heads just so they're sealing on both so we can make sure that all of our coolant passes and whatnot are all blocked up and then we'll be ready to go so i'm going to finish this up all right so we got all of our head bolts with sealant on the threads and we also taking a little bit of oil dropping it right on there and the reason why is when it actually goes to drop into the cylinder head like right here um it's supposed to stop uh or to reduce the friction so you actually get more of an accurate uh torque when you actually go torque it with the uh torque wrench wherever the hell that went over there um but yeah so at this point now we have our deck surface we're gonna take a little bit of the sealant here and we're going to seal right here and right here that's going to ensure that we won't get any oil leaks or anything like that so we're going to do it on the deck surface side then we're going to place our head gasket on and then we're gonna do it on the top side of that head gasket as well all right we got our sealant on so now i'm just gonna i'm gonna have to drop the camera here in a second one thing i will say when you're setting your head gaskets on usually these are felt pro gaskets usually the lines and where it's actually stamped um on it here that's usually it's the uh this this side goes up sometimes some of these gaskets will actually tell you which side goes up but you could tell by looking at this one that this one is a side that goes up so we'll go ahead we'll place it on it's got to go over our dial pins here if i can get it lined up there's that one just kind of press on there we go i'll go ahead and i'm just going to kind of give that a little half press there do the same thing on the other side and now we're ready to drop our cylinder head on actually got a little far ahead of myself here we're still going to group the top side of the gasket here too with with that just to make sure it seals up right okay so they're all started but basically you have to go from the center and work your way out so it's center over down over back over to this one and it's kind of a circular rotation then back up to this one this second one from the inside from the center line that one then over to this one then up to that one then this one this one that one day out one and then do that one that one and that one and we're gonna do it in a sequence of three 25 foot pounds 45 and then 65 and we should be good so let's torque them out all right so we just finished some finished all of them doing them on 25 now we're going to bump it up to 45. here we go and go around and do them all again all right so we got our torque wrench set to 65 here and we're going to go ahead and we're going to do run them down the last time we're going to double check them triple check them again but usually like doing it this way i know i saw it okay all right so now they're all torqued down to 65 pounds we're gonna do is we're gonna go over all of them now torquing sequence is already done and when the way that we do this it's not going to matter but i'm pretty much just going to go straight down the line of the head it doesn't matter at the end because it should already be torqued to 65 foot pounds this is just double checking that they're actually uh torque to 65. all right so our cylinder heads are on and they're torqued next thing we're going to do and it's supposed to be in the vortec video which is going to be in the vortec video and also the engine build video but we're going to be putting in our 3 8 rocker studs in as you remember we cut these down and basically it's going to be the same process we're going to be using the loctite because some of these are coolant passages so we're putting a little loctite on these threads and then also inside on these threads and then we're going to uh like tighten them down i believe these are going to be up to 50 foot-pounds since they're technically a 7 16 end um and then we'll we'll tighten them in we'll get all them in and then we're basically going to start assembling our head with our rocker arms which are somewhere in this mess of all my stuff just blown apart on joe's bench sorry joe and uh yeah then we'll uh we'll take it from there all righty our rocker studs are officially in that's gonna be a really really nice upgrade compared to just the present ones it's gonna help us with the bigger lift cam and all that good stuff that was something that we decided to go with from the get-go but now they're in and they're torqued we end up torquing them to uh 55-foot pounds i did i did uh 25 foot-pounds first just to set them all and then i went back over and did them up to 55 just because i wanted to make sure that they were in there and like i said we have the sealant you can actually see remnants i'm going to get in there and wipe the rest of that ceiling up just so it's all off and not getting in here um but yeah they're all good and ready to go one thing i like to do here with our intake gaskets is actually line them up and see how they fit on these cylinder heads just see how much flow we're going to be knocking off and they're actually not bad i would like to take a razor blade and like cut that a little bit just that matches a little better so they fit on the heads pretty good uh problem begins when uh when we go technically it'd be this side and the felt pro side goes faces the intake we line up our bolt holes here and uh that is no bueno that is no bueno i think uh i'm thinking we can't have that so i think i think this is gonna get ground down and we're gonna gasket match the intake to the gasket at least um so then you know it's not gonna impede flow or anything because if it's not gonna be able to reach 400 horsepower it will not be because of lack of airflow due to the fact that i was too lazy to uh like poor match the heads and stuff i didn't want to do a full-blown port job just because it just takes a lot of time but i will at least gasket match um the intake to the gasket and then the gasket obviously fits well to the head because like i said if we're not gonna be able to reach the full 400 horsepower it's gonna because of lack of cam and lack of cylinder head um not because of lack of uh airflow because the gasket doesn't fit right so we're going to fix that so well joe put the anti-seize in there and he also put the rtv in our keyway good job joe you did a good job today would you like gold star uh i don't know i'm not sure what to tell you there but so you just slide it on there get it lined up with the keyway and get it started and then let's see it's been a hot minute since i've done this but if i remember correctly this actually twists in first right yep you thread it in just like your bolt so i once again completely jumped the gun because we're a little goofy there's a whole lot more going on here now and you're like wow we missed a bunch uh basically we got our 1.5 uh rockers because we're going to reuse these along with the uh the fulcrum balls those are all in there they're all good they all cleaned up nice so they're all reusable and basically we're actually going to set our valves um kind of hopping around here you're probably wondering why the intake's actually on we are going to fix that and we're actually going to gask it more of a gasket match more than it is a port match the intake to the gasket because the gaskets fit nice against uh the heads so we're kind of there's something going on down in there we actually have dye and whatnot on that and then there's a little bit of rtv to help us with the placement of the gasket on the back side of the intake so we can actually um get an overlay where the intake actually sits with the gasket so we can do that but while we're waiting we're pretty much going to throw the whole thing back together we set at the top of the tdc and uh basically we're going to start setting setting our valves here so a lot of you are probably kind of bummed out that we're keeping the original 1.5 rockers but the big reason why it's kind of tough and the reason why we end up doing this was obviously cost point uh with the overall cost of putting these heads back together um in in serviceable use and basically what it came down to with the call on these rockers is yeah we could go and we can get roller rockers but the only problem is is that these rockers are actually self-aligning you can kind of see that with these grooves here basically that actually kind of keeps the rocker aligned on the valve tip um so basically if you actually want to get roller rockers that would work you have to get the self-aligning ones and on top of that too because i like to spend money uh you probably have seen these elder rock valve covers on something else before on when we have assembled the rodnok 350 that's now sitting in the cutlass because we mocked it up if you actually look at these bad boys these are actually valve cover adapters from the center bolt design because that's what that guy is and we're going to be throwing these guys on which is basically there's bolts that go through that hole and then they move your actual bolt holes to bolt down the older style valve covers i paid way too much money for these just to make those fit but when it comes to spending money to make something a completely badass i think it's completely worth it so yeah i spent the money on those and basically another thing too that you have to worry about was i actually took one of the original uh like a regular roller rocker that's for a regular application that's the non-self-aligning one it don't fit like it don't fit like we're not talking like ooh yeah you could probably grind those and make it fit no no it don't fit so for now we're going to keep our stock 1.5 uh rockers and they'll work and they're going to last forever too but that's probably the only thing within this entire upgrade that if i could have spent more money on i would have went with like 1.6 full roll rockers just because um it would have been a nice upgrade but these are gonna do just fine and it didn't cost me like four or five hundred bucks because they're actually that much money so we're setting our valves um i pretty much have every single one of them done except cylinder number two the way that we're doing this there is multiple ways to set your valves this is the way that me and joe discussed in the way that joe showed me so this is the way we're doing it plus we have our timing wheel and everything here which makes it a whole lot easier basically the way that we started out here is we're doing it within the firing order of the engine um just the way that everything happens so we started off with number one now what we did is we set our um indicator to zero which would basically be top dead center of piston number one now if you didn't know there's actually technically two top dead centers for every single piston and the reason why and try to explain that to you is basically when um you have your compression stroke and your what we like to call overlap stroke compression stroke basically both of your valves are supposed to be shut so they're not going to be moving and basically your pistons coming up and that's when your spark plug in the in the spark plug hole on the cylinder head it's going to ignite and basically create the explosion in the actual uh combustion chamber so basically the pistons coming up it's compressing your air and fuel charge your uh your spark plug is igniting that charge and sending your piston back down and obviously your um exhaust valve is opening and it's going out through the exhaust port on the head through your headers uh exhaust manifold whatever's on your engine and then there's also what they call the overlap stroke where the piston is not actually firing um and that happens so basically there's two different cycles of the actual piston so one time it's coming up the explosion's happening and it's sending it back down and then it's actually coming back up and it's not actually firing because another cylinder is firing if i explain that correctly and that made sense i think it did at this point my brain is melting out of my ears i hope it made sense so basically we had to set it at tdc on the compression stroke in order to set our valves because our um our actual valves need to be closed after we set it to zero right on the compression stroke we're taking our stamped steel rockers and we're setting them to zero lash and what zero lashes is the relationship of your rocker arm to the actual tip of the valve so this is your rocker that's the tip of your valve this movement up and down is considered your lash right so if you tighten your nut down the tighter you make that nut the tighter it's going to hold the rocker to the stud up against your push rod and also the tip of your valve when it comes to a point like back here on piston number four on our intake valve you grab it and move it it does not move up off of that because it is set to zero lash but on top of that again this gets more complicated as we go we're doing it now you talk you can talk to a million different people and they're gonna tell you a million different things but basically the way that we're doing this is we're taking it to zero lash checking to make sure that it's at zero lash and then doing three quarters of a turn with the wrench and socket at number one at zero obviously it doesn't read zero because with the point that we're at on our indicator we're ready to uh we just got done doing number seven so it's actually set but on this wheel it goes 360 degrees when you're at zero you will be at tdc on number one within your firing order the firing order on a small black chevy is one eight four three six five seven two one eight four three six five seven two remember it if you have to go buy the david fryburger shirt do it honestly i think i'm going to actually now that i'm thinking about it should probably grab my we're getting out of hand i need to remember to order that shirt later anyways okay so when we did so when we did number one it was at zero the your degree wheel was at zero then it went to 90 for number eight so that's one eight when you move to number four it went to 180 when you went to number three it went to 270 and then when you went to because remember one eight four three six when you move to number six it went back to zero then after six you go to five five would then be 90 then from 90 when you move over to number seven it's 180 and then when you finally come up to do number two you set it to 270 watch this one's already at 270 and then we take our socket with our ratchet and one thing i do want to show you i will actually back this up back to 1d because i want to show you something to make sure that you're actually on the right compression stroke per se let's move it back to 180 okay so there's roughly there's 180. so let's just say we got done doing number seven we're moving on to number two i just told you the numbers before we're at 180 we're going to take it another 90 to 270. a trick to do to make sure that you're on the right stroke is press your fingers down on the end of your rockers basically that is going to indicate and tell you um that you're on the right stroke because these should not move if they're on the compression stroke these push rods should not move while i hold them down while we move to the 270 which we're moving to the 270 now and notice how my fingers are not moving that's because our lifters and our push rods are not now we are at 270 these did not move we can come over grab our ratchet and socket and we are now going to take these to zero lash one thing that i like to do to help everything make faster you have what they call your fulcrum ball in here and basically that's kind of what the nut actually seats against to seat your rocker against your stud what i like to do is i like to take the nut just to make it quicker and screw it all the way down until it looks like it's just about to touch that so we'll go ahead and we'll do that one thing i do like to do too and i highly recommend it because joe kind of recommended it to me as well when you go to actually check your lash pull the socket off because if your socket's half sitting on the rocker it will actually mess with you setting your zero lash so that we have a little bit of movement in there i'm not sure if you can fully see that with the camera or not see how we still have a little bit of movement there so we gotta go a little bit tighter needs a touch more notice how i'm doing little tiny turns you don't want to overshoot it you want to make sure you get it as close as you possibly can to zero lash ah that's pretty close we'll go just a touch more okay that's definitely zero lash and then we're gonna do our three quarters of a turn again i put the ratchet at i like to put the ratchet at six o'clock and we're going to take it right to three o'clock so there's a quarter turn there's a half turn there's three quarters of a turn boom done now we're going to move on to our other one we're going to take this down too another thing that i like to do too just so you do not get yourself confused is every time you complete a set for a cylinder mark it if you actually look down all of these you can notice how there's sharpie marks over all of them like there's sharpie marks there there there there there and there mark every single one so if you walk away you know where you're at just don't forget where you're at on your degree wheel because once you get past the point where you're back to zero after you pass a cylinder number like when you get the cylinder number six it does get a little confusing so be mindful of that but like i said we're already at this point where we're pretty much doing literally the last set and these will be done oh yeah now if i remember correctly there is a seat point it'll stop okay all right so our intake is set up we actually scribed where our gasket's gonna sit and basically we're actually gonna come in here and remove material to try to get it to fit up better and so the gasket doesn't impede the flow coming through the each individual intake port so shouldn't be losing no horsepower today if anything might even gain a little bit okay so we're here with our intake manifold we have it roughly matched up here and uh ported we're gonna go over and we're just going to touch it up for my first time porting uh intake manifold uh it wasn't terrible i don't think i did too bad of a job so we're actually gonna come in here we're gonna smooth this out the rest of the way and finish her up [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] i'm a little bit more important to me than trying to make sure that uh you know sorry dude no you're good here you just stalled your set down too you'll have to edit that one out nope nope nope you're gonna be in the video for setting it down you're part of this too congratulations welcome to the club we're x and everything slowly and gently because if you look close enough you'll watch that you'll watch the actual oh okay it'll slip back and forth that's why i'm trying to lock it down yeah close so i don't want to be the guy who like twist it to the side now i'm assuming because i feel like this is kind of my opinion on these two i'm not a very big fan of the vortex specific intakes just because of the lack of center yeah i don't really like it either which is another reason we put goop on it yes because it may not push as hard and it gets a little thinner there kind of i really like it well i was even my deals too like i thought that was something interesting that you mentioned before when it came to these cylinder heads when they first came out for race applications that they actually board them out to be the regular to take basically what the regular bolt hole for a regular small box chevy like because you were cheating with it yeah by using the vortech head but you had to use the old style intake and that's how like what like tech inspectors basically would look and go let's look at the intake manifold and there are eight bolts or does it have 12 volts volts and yeah if they counted 12 volts they said okay it's good good enough can't be a vortech head because a vortec head only has c well ladies and gentlemen she's officially a long block intake manifold is on bolts are torqued uh valve covers are not fully on we just have them sitting on right now but uh we even have um everything set up for our timing um so that's gonna help us out when we go to fire it up and get the thing timed timing covers on oil panadon i just got to repaint all of it but it's looking good and now robert is putting lube in the rocker arms because you do not want anything dry yeah basically when the lube though it's the break in oil plus it usually takes a second don't it nope nope there it goes all right so we got our 355 small block chevy back over from joe's like i said we pretty much completely assembled the engine back to a long block everything's there it's ready to go one thing that you probably did notice is that uh remember before in the vortec video uh for when we did the cylinder heads if you watched that video i said i grabbed some chevy red orange yeah it turns out i painted the block chevy orange and back in that video too i didn't do a fantastic job because i didn't have a lot of the the tools to make it happen like honestly some of those parts on the block need to be needle scaled in order to get it to clean up nicely we're going to be doing that today um we're going to clean it up and then we're going to spray it but yeah should be nice and shiny um after we're done cleaning up we're gonna go ahead and we're gonna paint the uh the whole block uh just so it's matching colors and i want it to look somewhat pretty in there so uh yeah but let's get to cleaning this thing up and then of course we gotta stab it in that guy so chop chop get to work [Music] there it is it's pretty much yeah it's it's purdy it's pretty i like it um so i pretty much ended up painting up the whole block and whatnot we i just kind of have everything set on here the headers aren't going to be on at the carbs not going to be on it um and the uh the distributor is not going to be on it but that's what she looks like and i can't lie to you uh when we did this about a year ago uh it didn't look this bitching it didn't it looks a heck of a lot better now and the best part is too it it makes ballpark you know 375 400 horse so so that's pretty awesome really happy with it so pretty much at this point that's where we're gonna end the engine build video thank you guys so much for watching do appreciate it as always um tune in next time because you know the power plant needs to be dropped back into into the truck so that's what you're gonna be seeing next and uh thank you guys so much for watching and we'll catch you in the next one i was shooting my pelican in the woods the other day and you accidentally hit the neighbor no i like stepped in a hole in the in the grass

Channel: Boneyard Revivals

Views: 205,348

Keywords: 1985 chevy square body, Budget build Chevy 350, Budget build small block Chevy, Budget build small block Chevy 350, Cheep Chevy 350, Chevy 350, Small block Chevy 350 build, square body chevy, building a $1500 small block Chevy, 350 small block chevy engine build, small block chevy vortec 350, small block chevy vortec cylinder heads, Budget Building a Small Block Chevy, Budget building a small block chevy 350, cheep 350 small block chevy build, 400 horsepower small block chevy

Id: Zf5-C8XsxXQ

Length: 38min 53sec (2333 seconds)

Published: Fri May 20 2022