Budget 350 Small Block Build - Vice Grip Garage EP1

welcome to vice-grip garage and this episode I'm gonna show you how to build a 350 on a budget with crap tools in your garage for less than 1500 bucks that have blow your neighbors doors off and make it even more difficult I'm going to use a blown up 350 out of derby car see if we can deal with that one no no future up so I'm gonna throw it on a 57 Chevy right here in the garage well good test I little bit see what you can do let me dig her out Mazal get started [Music] [Applause] [Music] okay so here's our foundation this is a small-block Chevy it's a 350 this is a 3 9700 1/4 block casting her was back here you know is it worth building a to bolt or should I build a 4 bolt I'm gonna tell you it doesn't really matter to me personally I've built a lot of pretty cool motors that are a to bolt and unless you're spending all of your time about 6,000 rpm I wouldn't really worry about it personally when I bought this motor I got everything for 200 bucks it was a complete motor yeah barely ran but the reason I purchased it it was complete I knew that around and it was a pretty good deal for 200 so what I do buy the block I take the junk smog heads I sell them for about 50 bucks okay cast iron intake you can sell it if you get a good casting number there IMCA my guys liked them some other people might like them typically I'll just take a block like this and I'll use a wire wheel and some carpet brake cleaner and I'll just scrape all the dirt off of it clean it up and I'll start assembly there I don't really care what they look like however I have plans to sell this so I kind of want to do this one right I took this and had it magnaflux while it was there I hadn't owned it I had to put freeze plugs in it I had to drill the oil passages and I got it back all nice and clean holding yourself you can get a bigger ball home you know they're 40 50 bucks you can do it yourself it's easy trust me okay I opted to go this way little over 200 bucks guys not bad to get this thing clean on put together ready to rock I would have had seventy eighty dollars in two parts actually more than that plugs so it worked out again you don't have to do that so it's a block and the way it sits right now I've got about 400 bucks in it we're going to put the stock crank back in this thing I'm going to show you really quick right now how I quickly prep and polish my own cranks we'll inspect it and make sure it's good we're cleaning it up polish it pop it back in this thing then we'll do Pam shaft I got a really cheap awesome cam to show you guys and then we'll start assembly from there so you're gonna figure out pretty quickly that there's two things that I use way too much of you know that painter the Hat contree banner rate has a really nice pan and he says I'm gonna put a little tree right here I'm kind of like that with PB Blaster and spray paint no longer got the crank cleaned up and I see this nice clean box in here I have to spray paint I mean there's just there's just no way that I'm gonna sleep tonight and tell this is painting so they bought cylinder walls tape off the liquor bellies make sure you don't get any on the cam bearings give her a coke [Music] okay so here's the current state of the derby 350 and a super special proprietary Bake Oven we'll probably put two or three more coats on it here's the parts from the disassembly I just blow off forever inspector oil pan when you fall apart look for parts and pieces metal shavings that's okay you want to look for any big chunks this one had an obvious blown head gasket a couple other issues I'll cover in a second now if you're not gonna take photographs unless you have a lot of experience it's wise to lay out your parts like this so when it comes time for reassembly it's much easier and you know where everything goes in the orientation of it I always work front to back so I've got my main caps of bearings front to back all the way to the oil and then I've got my pistons front to back and you have to remember during disassembly the engines upside down so this is actually number one the orientation of the push rods and caps is paramount with a Chevy ones a square edge ones a rounded edge you've got to get those correct on the crank GM Pistons always have a daughter or a star as you can clearly see right here that always faces forward as I was showing you that blown head gasket that same piston has a stuck compression ring second ring down that's froze and the other big killer on this engine here this cam lobe right here is normal nothing wrong with that the one below that my thumb's on right now is wiped so when we do reassembly on this we're going to talk about wiping cab cam lobes or actually doing everything we can do to avoid wiping a cam lobe that's exactly what I'm talking about when we get to that part we're gonna start with the crankshaft and I'll show you guys how I clean mine up really quick of course you could take into a shop but that cost money so for about one bottle you can get all the stuff that you need to clean these up fairly good so I'm going to show you how I do that really quick pretty normal where I mean it's been heated quite a bit of course we know this came out of a derby so this is what I wanted to take care of move my light over here see these scratches that one right there that's actually fairly deep know that I'm looking at it and light this one will come out pretty good fairly typical there but we just want to get some of these scratches out get them polished and clean make sure the oil journals are nice and clean here's something that I've already started is here and you can you know based on these two you can clearly see the difference these have a very nice smooth finish to them and there's no deep scratches that's compared to these here so what you need is a super expert precision crankshaft holder like that you're gonna need some some sort of lubricant spit motor oil 30-weight whatever I like this because I put it on everything some sort of metal polish I use this because it's like less than two dollars carb cleaner just because I like to have gas laying around because I like to smell you need a scissors some 400 grit wet sandpaper and a shoelace I'm gonna flip this up so we'll start on this one cut your sandpaper to approximately the width this one's a little wide like so take your carb cleaner make sure there's not anything any chunks or anything on there soaked your sandpaper nice and good soak that down it's lubricated drape this over there spin this around I like to get my seams on the top because I can hold it better boy your shoelace alright keep it flat bring it around drop either under your shoelace keep a little bit of pressure on it and go to town as far as how long you do this you guys will figure it out depends on how deep your grooves are so I'm gonna do this for a while then I'll check back in with you here's what I got you can see clearly looks much different as compared to where we were at so now we're gonna put a little polish on her take some of your el cheapo Ace Hardware bullcrap or Walmart or whatever throw it on here do uh one of these things with this stuff something got a piece of microfiber towel and cut it in the strip throw it around just go to town and you'll actually feel this and I can hear it you can hear it's kind of grainy from the sanding and when you get this polished out pretty good that sound what kind of dissipate and it'll feel I don't know how to explain it fast or slick that's good enough so I'm gonna do this for a few minutes and that's about it guys okay blocks painted and dry so we're gonna continue assembly I picked up this enginetech set on ebay looks something like this I've used this exact kit probably half a dozen times now it works really well it's cheap 70 bucks gets you this whole kit comes with your rings these are cast rings not Molly cuz with your main bearings okay and it comes with your rod bearings of course here and then this bottom box has everything Gasquet you're gonna need including the rear main so it's you know pretty darn good deal if you were to add up all the gaskets alone you know on a fellow for example you're gonna be much higher costs another thing you're gonna want as we start to put this together is some engine assembly lube this is what I use where it's really good you can pick it up at NAPA Riley's autozone pretty much everywhere yeah and I used to buy comp cams a lot so I ended up with a bunch of these bottles so I'm gonna use this because it's cheap you don't have to you can go ahead and use regular engine assembly lube but when we start putting in the crank and everything else I go crazy with the loop okay the first 10 15 seconds of motor startup you're only gonna be really happy or it's gonna go very wrong and one of the ways to prevent the very wrong it's just making sure that everything is absolutely lubed as much as possible so first thing we're gonna do is drop the crank in yeah we'll start from there I like to get some Lube at my farthest cam bearing and my second farthest cam bearing once that cranks him we're not gonna be able to reach in there I guess my theory is as we slide this camshaft in each journal it passes through is wiping some of that lubricant off so I like to just apply some directly to the bearing here and here so as that comes in it's gonna pick up more Lube when it sets the other thing that I don't know if we're gonna be able to see this or not or you can see right down through there we can actually see that this oil journal is coming through the cam bearing so we just want to go through these and just triple check before assembly that all of these cam bearings are gonna get oil we're going to drop the bearings in drop the rear main seal drop the cranking [Music] [Applause] [Music] make sure none of your bearings have rotated make sure your rear main seal hasn't rotated and this should turn nice and easy but we don't want to keep spinning it because we got that lube sitting in there and we want to retain that when we do our rocker arms so this make sure it sit in here nice and it just moves nice and easy okay that's it main caps are easy they've got an air on them arrow faces forward they've got a tooth in it they're groove these just simply fit in that space right again make sure you're flush lube it all right there all four words I'm just gonna run these down finger tight then we'll come back and I'll show you the torque pattern okay I'm gonna snug all these down then I'm gonna come back and go 250 foot pounds inside out and then I'm gonna come back and do 70 foot pump on 4 bolt means I believe the outer caps are 65 foot pounds to bolt at 70 all the way through this is where you'd use a plastic age and you plastic age all of your clearances after you torque it down I'm already gonna be doing that here I'm not going to show you how because there's three hundred and forty eight thousand YouTube videos already on how to do that once you get a torque obviously you can give the crank little twist make sure everything's going good as we start putting the Pistons in we'll be checking the brake foot-pounds off the cranks down here so so we're on the Rings I've already taken my pistons that gave him a gasoline bath use the soft wire brush clean them up as good as I could I'm taking one of your old piston rings break it use this and work it around the piston if you've got some carbon buildup working around your piston get it nice and clean be sure to put them I got them on my workbench here I just transferred him from how I had them laying same way up top here I went with cast rings alike cast rings they're more forgiving they break in easier obviously you know your ring choice is up to you in your particular build Molly has its advantages but you have to keep in mind if you want to go with Molly rings there's different ways that you have to hone and otherwise so also be sure when you're ordering your rebuild kit that you're getting the proper ring size and you're not getting ones that are called file fit or fit to file or whatever those who actually have to file the Rings and there's a whole process you have to go through for the proper ring clearance and then also if you're planning on bolting on an ebay turbo or some sort of supercharger you're gonna have high heat in the piston cylinder walls you're gonna want to get your rings a little bit differently too so keep that in mind some of these kits very important factory GM rings they have this little dot I don't think you're gonna be able to help baby right there that goes up that's because it's a beveled ring it's very important you get the dot up some kids have two dots for the bottom set one dot for the top just pay attention you know maybe even reduce thingamajigger x' we're gonna go ahead and start ringing these up [Music] [Music] all right we've got all the rings on the Pistons and I just wanted to spend a second on clocking rings I could be wrong but I feel like this is something that's really over complicated on the Internet I googled it the other day just out of curiosity shaken I mean I saw diagrams and pictures and lines and charts and degrees and I don't know maybe my way is wrong but it seems to be awfully easy and all I do is this here's the center of the piston we know that the dot is the front I'm going to look at my compression rings I'm gonna make sure my top ones at two o'clock we're gonna make sure my bottom ones at 10 o'clock all I'm gonna do spend the pissing around I'm gonna make sure my top oil ring is at two o'clock my bottom one ring there's a 10 o'clock and my wavy ring is that 12 o'clock that's it you're done ready to drop in the motor don't overcomplicate it tend to spin it 10 and 2 ready to go so ready to put bearings in move them up drop them in okay I'm on my last piston here Knight I'll just show you how easy this is I push it out until the piston wings are just hanging out a little bit guided that nice set it in grab my persuader [Music] that easy I'm just gonna reach down here I've got the crank on the downstroke so I'm going to guide it all the way down to the crank Oh Big Bang zing boom done oh I'm sorry Belling high-volume yes for doing a budget build oh why would we not just go to a high volume plus look at the pump shafts let me get closer here's a factory one it's got this cheap little plastic cap that sits on here that always breaks like always here's millings much much much better now we're going to flip it over and we'll start the count it is officially cam time there's a lot that could be said about camshafts so I'm not going to bore you with my preaching but what I can help you with is a really really cheap cam that I really like actually I have a member two of my current vehicles but I'd probably put ten of these in if you like the way that a comp cams big model thumpa or thumper or whatever it is sounds or the Howard's Big Daddy rattler cam or any of those really aggressive profiles but they perform really good on the street this is what this is going to do for you and this is the Summit Racing cam and I believe the part number is 11 78 it's a 450 450 left to 74 duration on a 106 LSA the cam by itself is like 70 bucks I picked up the cam and matching the Mithra set for 10 bottles of black velvet 120 bucks I mean you can't beat that my opinion I'm going to show you how to insert this I actually just start I'll get through the first two journals I'll lube all this up really good then I'm gonna let this hang onto the block so that I'll loop the next two then I'll move it forward then I'll move the final half that way you don't have a cam that's fully lubed and you're you know getting it all messy and wiping a lot of it off and remember I've already put cam lube on mine farthest to journals in the block so as this is passing through and getting some of that wiped off it's going to end up coming in contact once it gets fully seated just a reminder depending on what distributor you're running pay attention to the distributor gear and then so you don't destroy that long bolt just put this through be careful with the threads you can use this as a handle unless you already have one don't go by the tool just to put a Canon [Music] all right we're gonna put a comp cams true double roller chain set in here big dollar splurge you know factory sets are 35 40 bucks this was $50 you get this in I just put the gear on the cam itself rotate it and tell the dot here it's close to the dot on the top then what you got to kind of do is eyeball it like so get that chain hooked on top gear goes on the peg and you're done then all you have to do is just verify that you've got dot-to-dot here we put the heads on here I promised you a budget build so I'm gonna keep my word thank you're truly on a bare-bones budget throw the old smart heads on don't worry about it save up some money off great somewhere down the line but keep mine the carburetor the intake the headers not really gonna do much for you you'll gain some horsepower but all these motors are air pumps you guys know as much as I do so it's all gonna come down in the heads knowing that I want to put this motor in something I'm gonna sell these are orange chicken lo mein special from eBay they literally don't have a name okay nothing but 202 1:6 190 runners and these are 600 high-lift valves and this camp completely assembled ship to my door just over 500 bucks heads are on there all torqued up need a oil pan and attendant cover so we're going to use the factory set I've got those soaking in the parts washer which for me is my son's sled and we just fill that up with gas and scrub him up and he's over here behind me cleaning him up right now we'll hit it with some 400 sandpaper paint it really fast throw those on all right it's time to figure out what kind of fuel coffee can I just blew my back out into like 16 pieces like I was saying there's no reason you can't use a good old Quadra jerk these are actually pretty decent carburetors that can be tuned don't work if you're on a really tight budget also if you have a 700r4 and cruise control you don't want to deal with all that geometry' and cables and linky who's this is easy just to retain a Quadrajet bolted on these here Edelbrock's these are diamond dozen there's like 11 to 4 billion of these all over the interwebs in a Google machine this one I got for 50 bucks hit the junk in here this is a double pumper Holly I like these because they're pretty simple to tune I'm going to use the completely wrong intake for this build which is going to be this wild single plane intake bad raw good intake just not even close to right for this build well would probably be more proper for this motor would be like a dual plane it'll Braque air gap or one of the Ching pound knockoff ones had to work around a bunch of parts so we finally gears we're ready to go ahead and finish this up I got everything I need to get this finish so first thing you might notice I got some headers on here long story short friends drag race we're going to wall headers he actually has for tri-five after about five or six beers that took these over on our bucks and their home for supercops so I got a really good deal on of course I said that I'm down to scraping it off and then I had to figure out my push rod length and my rocker arm geometry the old geometric boy is that not fun but it has to be done not always but more often than not if you move to a performance head especially if it's aluminum your push rod length is probably going to change depending on your pan lift depending on the ratio of your rocker if you go over the factory 1.5 it smelled like Chevy that's also going to affect your push rod length so on the pumped up lifter you just slide this in the motor adjust it to where you think you need it make sure if you're going to guide plates those are installed as if they're about 1/8 inch thick make sure your screwing rocker stud is all the way tight o'clock your rocker on roll the motor over a few times I use nail polish or a marker on the valve stem tip and you're looking for an even wear path right now that valve stem so once you get all that figured out that's a hard part of the push rod bikes probably going to catch a lot of flack for this but this is a true budget build we're gonna reuse the old factory 1.5 stamp steel rocker arm you remember our spray PM intake boom ebay distributor complete brand new comes with wires 62 bucks they don't forget your distributor base gasket I've done that a couple times we've got a lobster rear main seal stupid I didn't end up rolling with the yellow rock cleaned up really nice already had one of these diagram achill engineering kits for it so I figured why spend more money I'll be able to tune this again eBay 26 bucks these were about $30 the shipping they were really rusty I hit him with these get the ones with the soap in it budget 350 like most people can save up enough to pull this off I think it turned out pretty good it's a little bit out of your budget guys remember you don't have to go with the aluminum heads you know maybe consider just upgrading your valves a little bit if you're going to do a high lift cam otherwise factory Springs will take 450 left 475 I've done them they're gonna go over 500 you might want to upgrade your Springs but all the way back around 4 ends come a high-tech digital receipt machine here and if I'm using the calculator right I come up with 1547 dollars to 28 cents so say it but blue budget honor but keep in mind this is a fully dressed engineer fellers this isn't a short block or what have you so Zack next weekend I'm gonna drop her in the old 57 and go test on her so comment below let me know what you're thinking if the subscribe button wherever that is apparently that does something for me in the future I really don't know what but it sounds really important so appreciate it thanks for watching

Channel: Vice Grip Garage

Views: 1,237,246

Keywords: how to, how to build, 350 build, budget motor build, budget engine build, vice grip garage, vgg, junkyard digs, flying sparks garage, how to build a cheap motor, cheap engine, small block chevy, sbc 350, chevrolet engine, 383 stroker, 383 stroker build, polished crankshaft, crankshaft, chevrolet 350, small block 350, 350 small block, sbc

Id: W6aZhMGYcyo

Length: 28min 49sec (1729 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 20 2019