Building a 350 Small Block Chevy Start to Finish - Part 2

this was filmed in front of a live studio audience today we're working on the good old 350 small block chevy getting the short block finished up got a whole bunch of parts here we're going to go over them get this thing together welcome back to the zhp garage master mechanic is losing his marbles we're back here on part two which is what comes after one part two of the what's that thing what's that piece of piece of piece of metal small block chevy 350. yes sir 355 to be exact because it's 30 over but some of you guys have been waiting for part two so here's part two we are delivering still waiting on the heads good old heads but yeah heads are pretty back ordered but we can get a lot of it we're gonna finish up the short block and get a lot of it done get the oil pan on timing cover all that good stuff so let's check it out right now let's get started let's do it yeah you say you just say break check mark go whatever your code word is mark go so we're back here with our little 350 small block we're putting together we got some some more parts some of these we already had we showed you before but we were able to we got the keyway that's that's what stop oh that's what stopped us last time so now we're able to get this get the cam get the timing chain and everything finished up so we get to we're going to get the keyways in it we get the rest of the bolts we got our arp bolts here we only got one in there right now holding it together so we'll get our cam sprocket time chain on it time to cover i don't remember if we showed that's aluminum timing cover the felpro gasket got a new seal somewhere got the seal got it we got it this isn't the one that's in the ocean though that's that's a different kind of seal so we got a seal we got our got our dampener this is a used used dampener but it's a trick flow sfi race car stuff man i got a double keyway so we gotta make sure to line up to the timing um we got our our melling oil pump our mailing pickup sf5 flex pay this is off of uh this is used but a good good flex plate got our new milidon oil pan we showed um we got some rp flex plate bolts a decent oil filter we're gonna have to change the oil pretty quick after after startup after break in so not not too crazy on the on the filter because it won't be on there too long but got oil filter we got our adapter just a stock oil filter adapter then we got our drive rod this is a miller done drive rod it's got the the sleeve made on if you run from a stock on you just have this little plastic probably a fancy name it's pretty much plastic that would go on top of the stock rod but because of the high pressure pump the stock rod you have the risk of breaking the rod so you always want to harden one it doesn't matter because we're running a 350 but if you had a 400 small block because of the bigger main caps you want to have the relief cut but pretty much everybody does it so you can use them either way but so we got a good drive rod and we got some new hardware for the oil pan so that's pretty much what we're gonna do we're gonna finish the whole shore block we also have we can't put it on yet because we don't have our intake or our heads but you don't have your intake let's just try this again we also have the intake ford already we picked this guy up from the swap meet from good old dave freiburger the official roadkill uh intake manifold it's pretty cool they mill down the center though they're trying to do some sort of test but they've signed a piece of paper for me saying that it's official it's kind of funny but so this intake we're going to run on it so once we get the heads we didn't take on it we had a sandblasted but just a stalker good good performer intake so let's get this thing together so i'm going to take i got to take the sprocket back off here i have the we gotta get the lower crank pulley lower crank pulley crank sprocket put on there so we gotta take it back off to get the key ways in there set it here on a shop towel pop this guy back off okay put our key ways in there see there's two two separate spots it's not one big one it's two two separates so let's get him started there and skim a little tap down about like so now we can put our sprocket on it and this is just a like stock replacement style so it's a single single roller there's no there's only one mark you got your one keyway and your one dot so line it up then we're gonna have to tap it on because when you get back here on the crank there's a little step that fits if it's tight back here so i forgot my little installer that goes over this now so i'm just gonna use two hammers so i'm just gonna work it on here gently work it around evenly evenly tap it so now we can put our sprocket on but we need to put a little lube where it's going to rub on the on the block here put it right here on the back side bolts right here put our arp lube on it these are air arp bolts we got sprocket lube we got our bolts ready so we need to find our dot we line up our dots yeah line up your little keyway and your camshaft here snug them down and then torque them to 25 foot-pounds see that we're perfectly lined up before we torque it make sure to i didn't show it you see there's some plugs behind the cam sprocket here if you ever have a block machine make sure all these plugs there's three of them back there make sure those plugs are in there sometimes the machine shop doesn't put it back in and the customer doesn't know big oil leak if you don't have those you have no oil pressure so now we're all done here on the front everything's torqued and on and i put a little assembly lube in here but after i get it all on i'll dump dump oil in here and you know it'll a little bit before i before we start it doesn't need to be drowned in assembly oil so now i'm going to clean off the surface area here where the gasket's going to sit cleaner on a rag i think this is carb cleaner but brake cleaner carb cleaner swipe it down put the gasket on there dry either one or the other use a gasket or use silicone you don't use both just line it up on the dowels see how it kind of kind of got to line it up as you put the cover on there this cover's been sitting around for a few days so i need to make sure that it's clean on the inside and wipe it all wipe it off also this cover is used used too you know a little war scars on it so do the same thing we'll get brake cleaner on here and wipe off the cover so once it's wiped off you don't want to touch it so we can get a bolt here and we can line up our gasket up here as we put it together and push it onto the dowel pins we don't have a timing pointer yet we got a timing pointer for that dampener so we're just gonna put all the bolts in there then after we measure it we'll just take the two out and add the dampener or add the pointer to it after the fact but right now we know it's on top dead center their cams lined up and you can see this this dampener is double keyed because it's set up for a blower got to make sure that when we put it on that we're up our timing marks are up here so we're going to use this keyway that's going to go on to the crankshaft like so because our timing pointer is going to be over here put put the dampener on before we spin the engine over because we know it's on top dead center right now so we don't put it on the wrong keyway then you can't figure out why your timing's all messed up you gotta watch that when you use when you use them use use stuff you gotta make sure that it's gonna work with what you're doing so i'm gonna torque the cover these are the quarter inch bolts so i'm going to torque them to 13 foot pounds arp says i do 25 uh no 15 15 on a quarter inch bolts but these aren't exactly a hardened arp bolt so i went a little less you can do by hand i just have the torque wrench sitting here so just use it you know while drawn down first and then i'll go torque them all it's all evenly evenly pulled on it so they're all torqued down now so now i'm gonna put my my crank seal in it and then put the dampener on it before anything gets moved so i know which way the the dampener is gonna go being that this is a used cover i don't know if there's any imperfections in here that i can't really feel or see from people prying out the crank seal or anything so i like to put a little film of silicone around the outside of it and then i'm going to use some transgel and i'm going to pack in here because this has a spring a spring seal gasket and i don't want that spring to pop out as i'm tapping it in here so i pack a little transit jaw behind it so as i tap it in the spring seal stays in there because it's not very exciting when you get it on you notice that your your seal popped off and it's hanging down in there you take it all apart again so we'll put a little pull on the back side hold that spring in there and whatever's left over we'll run around the lip here so it's not dry when we first start it up so now that i got it lubed and packed in the back side there so that spring will come out now i'm going to wipe it wipe this and i'll put a small film on there and tap it in and you kind of got to be careful where you touch it afterwards because you don't want the oils from your hands or whatever getting on there let's give this a quick wipe we'll take our silicone let's do a small little film let's put a little film around the outside here nothing crazy just just to fill any imperfections parts parts putting in there without touching anything inside i'm so worried about it's more the outside i don't want to i don't want to touch we take our hammer and tap it in there and as it gets down to the silicone you want to wipe it so you don't smear it everywhere let's make sure they're even all the way got our dampener already already wiped off here it's already cleaned out in the center and i want to put a little bit of silicone in the center of it here just to seal it on the snout get a little film on the finger and i'll just run it around on the inside here it's a little little film nothing nothing crazy so now we know our zero is going to be up top here so we're going to use this keyway get it started on there then we're going to get our installer and draw it on so now we have our installer so we're going to get this into the snout of the crank here just want to run this in just just snug you don't get crazy with it get our bearing on here or not take a little bit of our erp stuff put it on the threads make it happy we gotta hold the installer and run it running on there so if you didn't have an installer you'd have to beat on your dampener with a hammer block of wood or whatever i don't really recommend it because i don't know if you want to buy a expensive trick flow ati sfi approved dampener and beat on it with a hammer could use a longer bolt and use this snout to pull it in but then you have the chance of ripping the threads out of the end of the crank because when you start grabbing it's not on all the way you're not grabbing all the threads better to have the installer i like this wrench good ratio that's one thing about about the tool you got a little guy to hold it a ginormous nut on here it's not a very good ratio being that this is an eagle eagle crank in here and then uh aftermarket dampener the tolerance is there i mean they're right on spec so this thing is going to fit super tight so this is just a stock dampener a stock crankshaft it would go on a lot easier but aftermarket stuff it's it's a tight fit so it definitely helps to have an installer on this thing you don't you don't want to beat on your crankshaft that you know this is all you're pounding on this thing you're just beating on the thrust bearings that's really something well i guess my installer had one too many installs in it so i think we got it on all the way though it's a good thing that the rest of it comes out by hand though things on there tight for sure i get my tool fixed but i'm pretty sure we'll spin it over here and see well being that our being that my installer broke so we're gonna have to get the tool fix and come back and finish putting the dampener on but it's okay we can we can finish that later we're going to go ahead and continue forward we're going to get the oil pump on this thing and the drive rod and then get the bottom insealed up so now i'm going to grab i'm just going to grab the drive rod this guy just sits right here being that it's upside down and then when you put it when you flip it over is when it'll push down into the into the pump so this is where it would hit because a cap on a 400 has got a bigger main journal so this is a smaller hole that's why they have a relief a relief cut but that's why so it clearances the cap so now i'm going to grab the oil pump being the oil pump's new and it was in the box but somehow i got a little moisture to it so it's got a little bit of surface rust here in a couple spots but i'm going to take it apart and clean it and everything give it a prime so i'm going to take the bottom bottom off here real quick the oil pump here so it's going to take it take it apart got the main drive and the idler for the pump you want to make sure there's no debris in it and you machined it looks good it's all clean so the surface rust isn't isn't a big deal to be okay once we get it get it in there it's not enough to hurt anything so i'm just going to grab some assembly lube make sure all of your gears are clean we can put some assembly lube on here and make sure to put it on the bottom here where it rides up against the pump the pump housing and also on the shaft where it goes through nothing all metal the metal won't be happy the same deal we got a semi lube here on the idler pulley i'll get on the top and bottom so now i'm gonna put it on the engine i'm gonna make it easier on myself here now that we got it got it cleaned up so we got our got our drive rod in here we're gonna throw this pump on here get some arp lube on our bolt then we can finish putting it together standing up instead of being on the ground we're going to torque this guy here 55 foot-pounds it'll click it'll click there it is so here we have our pickup and our pickup bolts bolts on the normal stock style just just press presses in there if you don't attack or anything it's kind of interesting because it can move this one here bolts into place it even has instructions on how to install it in case you're wondering see read it fast that's how you do it all right so now we're gonna it's harder to get the other package you need to put it on there it is so now we have the the bottom gonna go in here like like so and then this is going to go in so we're going to use this bolt here so we'll put these these bolts in these three hold it on then we can install install this and bolts down here so we're going to add a little more assembly lube here to the bottom and in the gear because you want to have it have it thick so it primes and sucks right away we're going to we're going to prime this with a primer but still you want to get over pressure fast as possible so we're going to squirt in between here so it has a good amount when it spins around it's not dry on the top cover on we'll put this one in this one in this one in we're not going to tighten these down yet it's going to just going to bring them bring them to snug now we can install our little pickup so this is still a pretty pretty tight fit here and you don't want to beat out here you're just going to deform it so you can get a wrench you can slide it over here and you can tap it tap it in so now we got our pickup in all the way we're gonna put our last bolt in here we're gonna tighten it all back down it comes with a washer just put the washer on here to give it a good good amount of surface area i'm sorry our live studio audience is interrupting me so now we're gonna wipe off the we got the oil pump all on it the pickup it's all tightened down torqued we're all good to go we already tightened the torque the caps everything's done here so now we're wiping off the pan rails and we're going to put the we're going to put the pan gas there's the pan gasket on and the new oil pan so like i said this one's a rear has a little step in it has a step for the block goes down in there to seal it up around the remain and then the front has two different two different options it has a thinner one thicker one depending on the depending on what timing cover you have you can see that this one is a thicker one because you put this guy in here it's not gonna it's not gonna fill the void so we don't need that one so we're using a thick one this is the only time you can use a little bit of silicone so you wanna put a little bit on the bottom of the rubber and then in the corner here you can see you have your timing cover gasket but there's this little void where oil can leak through so you want to put a little dab in the corner and then run a little oil on both sides of the front and rear gasket or not a little oil a little silicone did i just say oil you want to run a little silicone a little silicone on both sides of the gasket of the rubber and a little dab in the corner that's all you're going to use this little film see it on there don't get don't get crazy so now you got to work this guy in here without losing all your silicone this is gonna be a tight fit these aftermarket covers they really hold it on there i think i have a little a little bit off center i need to scoot it that way a little we're gonna get underneath there and try to work it work it over i'm just gonna clean up the silicone on the on the inside of the lip you don't want to have blobs of silicone breaking off and getting sucked up in the oil pump and everything we'll do the same same in the rear so it's put a the rear doesn't fit quite so tight because this factory setup those aluminum covers in the front really tight then you want to put a little dab here to go along if you remember when you put the cap on at the anaerobic this little corner so we'll put a little dab of silicone down here to seal the rest of the cap and we'll put our rear rubber on about like so then we get our two side this is just a stock replacement deal so just cork so the knees are going to slide up underneath slide up underneath this rubber gasket like so same in the front here slides slides up in there just like that same on the other side it's definitely a lot easier to do this with your engine upside down trying to do this underneath the car real pain in the butt everything falls on the ground on you so i did a little little dab of silicone on the corners and then just a little film around the rubber on both sides every corner front and rear a little dabber so now i got everything's clean we're good here so now i'm going to set the bull pan on it got a nice mellow done kickout oil pan so we're just going to slide it slide it down on here go straight down to it make sure it stays there for me it's a little slippery grab a couple bolts here get started so it doesn't slip everywhere and on small block chevy's all the inner bolts are all quarter inches in the outer four corners or 5 16 and on the cork gasket you want to be careful not to over tighten it you can just over tighten the point the cork just squishes out and breaks up careful on tightening it down so i'm just going to use a little quarter inch drive and i'm going to start at the center and work my way out here and just snug it down so i'm going to go over it a couple times i got the panel all tightened down i just did it you don't know i don't really torque it because because of the court gasket you just squish it so i did it by hand so kind of tighten down and you can see you got a good a good squoosh because your silicone you got this good even consistent squish out the whole way around so that's that's good so what you what you can do before the silicone dries is get a shock towel or something and come in here and you can wipe off this extra that's oozing out so it looks like you know what you're doing you don't have a big blob of silicone hanging out of there you wipe off that extra you can even come around the whole pan here if you want give it a nice wipe before it dries and it looks like it's just a little rubber there it's all nice and cleaned up now all consistent the back here might be a little harder to to get in there to get to it because of the crank but you can use a little pocket screwdriver or something a little screwdriver and come in here and get the blob of it off so now we got the pan done you want to make sure to double check your drain plug this one here is loose you can see it come hand tight so before you put it get it all done try to fill it full of oil you want to make sure make sure that's tight so we're going to tighten that up now the oil pan is done so now we're going to put the adapter back on here and uh put an oil filter on it gonna get this thing sealed up just have the original adapter for the oil filter i cleaned it up it's got some crusties i mean it's clean it just looks like it's it's got crusty stuff built onto it burnt onto it i should say so you can line it back up the same way it doesn't matter you can you can do it either way but this is the way it was put that back in there and then use the original bolts that held it down there we go we'll grab our oil filter and then we're going to put a little bit of um a little lubricant on the seal here let's get a film on here now they've got a film on the gasket i'm gonna go ahead and screw the filter on it i'm not worried about putting oil or anything in here right now because once i flip it over and get oil in the engine i'll prime it with the primer and it'll pump it through everything so it won't be dry when we go to start it there we go now the bottom is all sealed up we'll flip it around we're gonna go ahead and put the put the lifters in it and then we got a little joey gibbs um assembly grease assembly oil that comes with the camshaft to put on the lifters so we're going to loop them up this is like a thick thick gel oil so you don't need to get crazy with it but it helps on the camshaft lobe so i normally do a heavier coat on the bottom then just put it on the side and it'll lube it as it goes down push it down to the camshaft well goodbye everybody i hope you enjoyed the video putting some more work in finish up the short block of the 350 on here on part two part two so in front of a live audience you know what comes after two right go down number three like share subscribe come on back we'll be coming out with number three soon once we get some more parts get the heads on the heads and a few other things too come on back nice aluminum heads all right see you guys next time

Channel: ZHP Garage

Views: 77,056

Keywords: How to, Cars, Car work, Mechanic, Master Mechanic, Classic Cars, Old School, Carburetor, Garage Restore, Restoration, Mobile, Fixed, ZHP Garage, Ziegler Garage, ZHP, Ziegler Racing, Street Car, Race Car, Drag Car, Car Shows, Classics, Fabrication, Welding, Engine build, 350, 350 sbc, Small block Chevy, Chevy, SBC, 350 sbc build, 350 small block Chevy, 350 sbc engine build

Id: fPEvb8rYvEU

Length: 20min 19sec (1219 seconds)

Published: Mon May 03 2021