Blown Up VW Bus Engine, Can We Repair It For Free?

so i know the whole thing has to come down everything has to get taken apart anyway so i'm not that concerned i just don't want to damage maybe some of the internals all the stuff on the outside is uh pretty much toast or nothing more is really going to happen to it i think we should probably see even get the spark plugs out of it let's see what that looks like and they're buried in there and get some oil down in the cylinders maybe we'll purge a little bit of the mouse enough anybody home there's this hole and she builds up behind the fan too come on baby more of a b-flat that was going to be an issue look at that huh clean break bent was a bent so hidden back in here outer sanctum of the horde under all that snow and car covers these vw engine parts for 1600 yes believe it or not i may want to go get a shovel because they're under that right there i'm done digging let's see how frozen it is shut it's got a lot of ice on it hey critters raccoon jumps out so in here this is a stash of parts it's like some old pistons and cylinders we got some pistons and cylinders we have another long walk which i also think is a b my memory serves me correct i think that's a set of heads for the same single four that's the dual port that won't be the same and looks like there might be another single port right there too i think the valve guides are gone in them though or possibly maybe between the two of them using four parts put it together in the missing cylinder that we need to steal from there and while i'm here i think i'll grab this other vw stuff too so we have exhaust rear teen a friend shroud there's cylinder heads somewhere back in this stash those those mirrors i was looking for those mirrors i just found them i want those for the orange truck good we'll go we'll go steal those while we're here after being dry my stash were probably about 15 years mother nature was nice enough to wash it off for me on the way over great and we're still hunting for parts and this old prom queen which i guess was red white and blue at one time and she's a stash of goodies and i'm sure critters at the same time too we are looking for a dog house or a fan shroud that might be more pistons too right there if you guys see anything we're gonna go scavenge through here and possibly throw some crap in the trunk and the trunk the truck and bring it back with us one thing about hoarding you forget all the goodies you got stashed away that's a dual port get a transmission axles what's in here that can go with us if it's got an offset it's gonna offset oil cooler we could probably put this offset one on there i think we can i'm gonna go look and we can just run the other fan shroud nice little boxing coming with me i think we're gonna do a little bit of digging and just get stuff back there so i know what i have there's an intake too a dual port intake clean shroud all kinds of good stuff what we got in are they new or here or i'm sure they're old maybe not those may be brand new nope brand new that's all right i don't remember if they're 15 or 16 i think they're 16. i would probably guess right here and stroke on the side the less used than the ones that i have on it well after picking the horde and not spending any money which is the purpose that i'm trying to go shoot forward with putting this engine together we have uh some cylinders i actually have a whole another set of used ones but i found some cylinders by themselves to replace the broken one that would not come out of the head uh cylinder head with good valves in it to replace a broken valve in one and a bent valve in the other hopefully you can rebuild those single port heads some tins that were rotted out the rocker assembly that was rotted and rusted that won't move the front pulley or actually rear pulley fan pulley that was bad we have a new one of those we have a fuel pump that we found used an offset oil cooler for an offset fan shroud that is delete of any heating hoses coming off it to go cleaning it up and a good use clutch pressure plate and flywheel assembly good enough for the purpose that we're going to use it for anyway and top but not least not but not least i said a good used wires that i found in the stash and a couple of exhaust systems with j-tubes some fashion of that will get put on that engine again this engine i'm not showing what's going on yet but it is when it's all together it will make sense as far as why i didn't bother putting a bunch of money into it and i'm not going to go crazy with cleaning everything and painting everything because it'll all be for nothing anyway so to speed things up a chat i think i'm just going to go take a bunch of time take the junk off of here clean this up when we start getting into fixing the cylinder heads and getting the pistons back in and all that kind of stuff i'll bring you back one way to tell the condition of an engine or how it was taken care of i should say when you pop the oil strainer off is how much sludge is built in around it you pop the screen down yeah that gives you an indication right there that's uh she wasn't as loved as much as she should have been let's get the strainer down though get an idea what that looks like suckers like welding not very good generally you could just rinse them and put them back in together just it's a oil filter but it's more of a screen than anything yeah you can see how much mud has built up around that a lot of times too just from sitting all the crap in the oil will settle out of the oil i'm looking where the pickup is right in here it sucks the oil up through here and then through the screen and up through the center so it doesn't look it was clogged completely but definitely it means a little bit of love huh i'll probably take kerosene after i get done cleaning the block the block i'll come back with kerosene probably uh slosh some of that through it and i'll kind of break up some of the crap that's in it so you can see let's go zero that out this is a the gauge is measuring in thousands we're going to try to get an idea how much play is in the crank and go one way you move with the other so i'm going to say it's about 14 000 14 or 15 out it's got you can adjust it there is shims underneath the flywheel we'll probably deal with that maybe a little bit later there's three shams you can kind of change the thicknesses of them to take up some of the space and try to make an improvements on it it should be around six i think six is around the max on it so we're definitely over uh the clutch beats up on them a lot every time you sit there at a light and you're holding your foot on the clutch you're literally pushing pressure against the side of the crank with uh all that spring force that is there you're trying to cancel that out when you push the clutch in anyway the crank takes a wear on that so let's just get a general idea what we have for bottom end she's a tad on the sloppy side on the bottom end yeah making one joke all right i'm gonna go continue let's actually just go flip it see what comes out of it for oil make sure no water comes out of it so yeah just a little hint of it you see a little bit of different discoloration dripping out no metal though let's get rid of that nasty front pulley it is loose but not loose but not coming out the nuts loose [Music] it's ready to block them with kerosene let's just soak in a little let's get that clutch off of there let's see what that looks like i'm not expecting good things let's just say a little bit of rust but actually probably clean up looking at the disc how close it is to the rivets that shot you see it on this side with a little uh cross hatches vents go across that's ground away and it's almost down to the rivets good thing we got a good used one in stock and a bunch of kerosene with a wire wheel on a drill a nylon wire wheel cleaned everything up pretty good good enough anyway let's go get one of those cylinders back to functioning condition so we can plug up that hole i tried cleaning up with scotch brite and still got some like rusty crud right there i don't know if you can see it so let's go run our hone through it and hold it again just try to break that rust off it's really not doing anything it's already old rings that are seated let's go give her a little bit of that see if that did anything for us i just want to get rid of that rusted really plus we'll get it we'll be able to see what the ridge looks like now because it'll leave a tail little scratches on that side get you closer you see all the scratches that showed up on that one get the light bit further away and there's the the ridge that's where all the power is being made so it kind of wears on the end of that cylinder wall let's take the one that's a little bit more rusty this one let's go run the same thing on that see how that cleans up for us take the better of the two let's see if that one's any better i don't see those deep scratches going down the side i see a little bit right there that's where the end of the ring is usually i think we'll be fine with either one that one doesn't look terrible though that's probably the better of the two stills a little bit of rust staining in it down below you can see again where the compression happens right there and it pushes wears the tip of the cylinder out a little bit scratches kind of the same scenario pick the best of the two but i think it's going to be this one i'm going to run just a little bit more of the stone through it get a little bit more of that rust off of there had a couple of studs that pulled so i heated them up got the nuts off brought them over to the wire wheel clean the threads up but i want to run a nut just over them there's a nut in the socket just to make sure that like that one doesn't have a bind there it goes so that when i go to torque the heads later on you don't have any any resistance i'm not going to pull all the pistons and clean the rings and all they all seem pretty good everything floats fine i don't see any binding or any buildup in there so other than wiping them down to make sure there's no contamination on them we're just going to go slide that other cylinder right back on [Applause] [Music] [Music] a little air diffuser plate there goes especially under that fin if that fin was there but what they do is the air as the air blows down between the cylinders it makes it kind of circulate going around instead of just blowing straight through and getting a hot spot on the bottom it makes it so the air kind of travels around and exits out roughly that direction what's really going to need some love is the cylinder heads this is the one that had the uh keeper fall off and bent that valve the exhaust valve let's go tap that out of there take a quick look at what that seat looks like let's see if there's any damage to it hang that off the bench there she is i think i got a wobble to her let's go see how the how the seat faired well this needs to get cleaned up but i don't see anything standing out at us you don't see big hammer marks like it where it took on some heavy damage i'm gonna get the rest of the valves off out of it uh zippo sent me this funky vw cylinder head valve spring valve removal tool i'm gonna give that a fire up and see if you get all the valves out let's give that a shot surprise you gotta get the little keepers off of it that sure is easier than the c-clamp i was using yeah that definitely makes life easier doesn't it should come out without having to beat them i'm also going to feel for how much um guide plate there is actually feels pretty good that one's fine okay still nothing screaming at me that it's screwed go take a quick peek i don't see anything and the fact that you get cleaned up almost get some pitting a bit of rust pitting up in there i actually got a valve grinding machine i traded youtuber uh hooked me up with it but it's missing some pieces so unfortunately i can't cut the valve with it all right so i'm gonna go wash this mess up take a wire wheel get some of this crap off of here this is what was holding the the jug got stuck on there and we got also the other surface that's an issue to watch out for us right here i know we had blow-by in one of them and again that's the uh the exhaust escaping or the the compression escaping out and around it wasn't torqued down too much and what happens if it runs too long you see it right there all the black if it runs too long like that it'll actually burn that aluminum away so probably we'll take a cylinder we'll lap a cylinder into there and see if we get a good pattern all the way around it take some time to get this one cleaned up pull the crap off of it and uh move forward clean up those exhaust thread studs a wire wheel action [Music] [Music] so this cylinder head that i grabbed from my stash the problem with this one is i'll show you the guides you can rock that valve back and forth about an eighth of an inch until she as you get closer to that's about where the stroke is so that's so bad over time every time the valve closes and then it kind of gets drawn into the center and when that happens it works as is through the valve away as it works it and it hammers it it puts stress on the stem right here eventually it'll break the valve at that location and drop a valve that's what's bad about using this that's why i didn't use this head this is the engine actually that came the headset came with the bus my thumbnail the red and white bus lucy these are the heads that came with that engine and that at that time they were no good but the valve is good we're gonna go use that in our cleaned up head right behind you i got that cleaned up pretty good i used up a roll lock wheel with a scotch brite on it and it should be this cylinder right here and that one has a little bit of play it's nothing like on the other head let's go lap them in so there's a set up going to go with you have a valve piece of hose and then a drill on the end of it pull down on it with some lapping compound and make the two very happily surfaces co-mingle together let's go get that set up and you should buff it [Music] you hear the sound change here push out all the sand so i'm gonna do that to all of them and i'll bring you back [Music] [Music] the next surface i'm concerned about is again where the compression leaks out where it gets blow-by right in there and this these heads were loose at least one of them was let me do the same i'm gonna throw some lapping compound on a cylinder i'm just gonna use the cylinder in there i'm going to keep doing that [Music] i'll probably come back with a sharpie and i'll write um i'll color it in with a sharpie and i'll see if it erases the print all the way around and when we have a good seal going all the way in so in other words i'm going to grind the steel into the aluminum to try to make the aluminum flat as possible going around i clean them over in the parts washer again to get rid of all that aggregate because the last thing you want is that going through the combustion chamber and chewing up your stuff the seat looks pretty good going all the way around with a jug meets up you can see a good uh mating surface where the compound made a solid line going around them so they look pretty good and then the valve surfaces too have a nice pattern on them the same don't see any cracks in between so i think this should recover pretty good again this is uh i actually changed this valve out to a different one and it has even less play than the other one did so i'm happy with that all right one more to do i'm ready to put them back on actually you know what i got i soft to drill out the two screws that hold the tin down they were not having it so so i'm getting ready to put the valves in the other cylinder head and these are the two exhaust valves there's one that broke that i tapped on the stem from the outside it's a spring and gave her a couple of shots and it fell off internally i just wanted to show all the pitting that was on that one it definitely uh contributed to its demise it should not have happened for what i did i actually kind of think looking at the stem to kind of see where it had almost like a little bit of a one of them showed it there it is right there you see the color difference in the middle she kind of like had partial crack in it maybe but yeah pitting is no good just same with the springs i'm going to change all the springs on this side too because they got rust on them they do not like to hold up to getting pits in it you see the difference on that one though this is the other exhaust valve that was in it you could see a little happening right there i'm gonna go change that one out too to a different one you can see a little bit of pitting right there this i think this is the cylinder that water had come in on and this is one that i stole out of another head that looks pretty good i'm gonna go find one more of those and finish this cylinder head up so knocked out a bunch of other stuff got it all cleaned and detailed and put away the car i'm not going to show the car rebuild i've done it many times but we will pop the top off and see what it looks like inside and how fuel has treated sitting the last i'm gonna guess 40 years probably we first went to go do this the linkage was frozen the throttle plate on the bottom was frozen i had to kind of tap it back and forth and spray some lube down in there just to get the throttle to move so i suspect it's gonna need some love i think i have a carb kit a bunch of stuff's getting hard to find it's all on your water stuff and it shows up two months later after being back ordered i think that might have come in all right let's go give her a who's your daddy definitely looks like it's uh backfired through the carb a few times judging by how much carbon is up here usually this area is clean there's nothing yeah it's definitely a not terrible though the float bowls that's the stuff that i sprayed into it the fuel let's um dump that out yeah the bowl's actually fairly clean good the only other thing is going to be a diaphragm for the accelerator pump which is underneath here i'll show you that in a second after i take it apart i need to get brittle over time yeah it was hard as a rock that accelerated pump not gonna do much accelerating all right i'm gonna get the rest of the bits out of it and the jets and everything and all those crap that is on it and go soak that and we'll get into putting the cylinder heads on the engine i think we're ready to rock and roll the new pushrod tubes of course this one's got a dent in it they have a seam on a welded seam you want to make sure that kind of faces upward it's a little bit of a juggling match to put the cylinder head on and put those tubes in at the same time uh which cylinder head we want to go with we want to go with the this is three and four so we want the better of the two because as they wear out three and four burns up faster all the threads have been cleaned up on everything off camera and so i'm gonna go just play a little game of uh stacking the pushrod tubes underneath there you can throw a push rod in each one kind of helps hold it from falling out but i'm just gonna keep juggling all those into place and they have like a crush to them what i mean by that is there's a spring loaded you can see it on the the sides of it so when you're trying to crank down on the cylinder head they will fight you a little bit especially if you're using new ones so you kind of take your torque wrench and actually before the torque runs you you kind of just draw all the hardware down make sure our seams are facing up [Music] i'm gonna go pop that hardware on there and we're just gonna kind of draw it down and then we're gonna get into twerking them these actually aren't too bad sometimes you can barely even see the top of the studs that are on them let me go throw that hardware on there moved over the other side so i'm just gonna run them down see how it's the head head's literally like a quarter inch from even being close to being run down the home and then i'm going to switch over to a torque wrench once they're all all right i got the torque set at like 15. that's how much work it still went yeah see how far that drew down i'm gonna go suck them down a little bit further just for the uh essence of speed i'm concerned about i don't know about you is that any of these studs decide to pull up out of the case which is a possibility that they can do that too i think that just happened to us on the very first one and that sucks i think that's the one that was loose on us they do make a repair for it they had little oversized with uh larger threads on the bottom you can cut them in i'm just checking to see which one's going to go pull down so i got two of them that did pull so i sent out the vw pry for help and see if possibly i can locate a set i switched over to the other side [Music] i have a feeling that is a message coming back from him right now i'm running them all down to 15. then i'll step it up to 24. plus i want to make sure i don't have any other ones that are failing which is a mistake on my part too because i really should have caught that because i knew the one of them the nut was backed off when we took it apart it's going to go real real quick just make sure they're all up against the click that sounds fine next would be the rocker shaft assembly i kind of see anything i want to line up all the rockers to their home may have a spring washer 8mm nut what will happen is it'll run but number four cylinder is going to have blow by because of that issue and not run well it's like it has a constant exhaust leak whenever you get on the throttle that's when i was taking the jugs and i'm trying to flatten them to the head that's what i was talking about then too okay problem generally from overheating and the mouse nest that we took out of this was a good example of what causes an issue we have to go back and adjust all them i have somebody searching your stash for them right now hopefully that comes through now we got to order them this video will be a while all right we're going to do the oil filter oil screen i should say one of those going in not much to these either the thing a lot of people do they're tempted to do they lose the nuts that come with it they're like little castle nuts i'll show you one so they do not have you know they're capped on one end so when you run them down if you lose them you put regular nuts on it oil will leak right through the center of the stud later on they got rid of this because a lot of people what they were doing is changing oil and we just pulled that center on it would never wash the screen we need copper washers go on each one that's it just suck all that down nice and light so you don't strip them out let's go see our carb is doing [Music] that looks decent enough i'm gonna go rinse that stuff off with some water put it back together after putting out the apv i was able to find three of them my friend who had them who i told to order a bunch so i would have them when they're needed so that's the oversized end this is what it's like stock so we're gonna go call that 850 and this one goes up to uh 30 so it's 45 000 it's larger you can see it's got a little self tapper in it and the stud the shaft is uh larger it's a joke there anyway so this is what's in there longer but you know this is the upper we're gonna go continue to pull this one out and go put these in and see if that'll fix us i know this is gonna seem weird what i'm gonna do i'm going to continue to run that nut down and what it's actually doing is pulling up on the whole assembly and i wanted to do that why do you ask so i wanted to take all the threads that failed with it see how far down it is and i want to rip right out of there and what will happen is it'll take the threads with it and it gives you a clean shot to move forward with the new one in other words it's kind of normally you would drill it a little bit larger and then get it set to to do a tap instead of drilling it this just does it for you i'm going to uh see all the threads how it came with it [Music] and then the new one oh she just falls right in the hole i do have to take the head off i thought i was able to do it through the head i do remember being able to do that actually i think you could probably thread it through i'm gonna go set up a set of uh nuts on here so i could run that down once it gets past a little further than that it'll be able to drop in and then we've got to tap it into the rest of it they do make something that grabs the ends of the threads for it i'm just going to double net it that should be enough for us to feed it in there hopefully as soon as i go to clear i'm gonna hit you in the head with a ratchet i gotta move you so as soon as it clears the head it should just drop right in down to the lower level there it goes the idea is if the engine is still in the car and it happens it was it was a fix to be able to do it in the car whereas they do make something that's called the case savers you have to you have to split the case bring it to a machine shop and they install a setup built into the case but you got to take the whole case apart my tins are getting me moved around so i can actually get some push on it the engine's against the bench on the other side i'm going to grind a little bit of leading edge on that so it helps helps get it started she's having trouble getting that first little initiation and something like that a little lead on it started a little bit more now should be able to back off the top nut had to put a wrench on it there it goes that's one done i can get re-torqued as i find out what i do with my washer all right torque wrench is on 24. i'm just going to run them in first i went i did all the other ones just because i want to see if any other ones we're going to go pull out but let's go do the normal torque pattern that one's already clicking there you go come on here we got that one here's our other victim saved so i cleaned up a rear pulley so okay i got some anti-seize in here too a little further i'll keep the oil in i'm going to throw a couple of quarts of oil in it cause i think we're ready to spin it up hopefully that's not bent or else it's uh gonna get corrected while it's on there they're gonna throw some oil in it and get the starter back on we'll spin it a little bit and they'll adjust the valves getting ready to crank it with the start i want to just spin it by hand now i can't hear anything funky [Music] at first it was clunking when we first were doing it but that was that valve that had lost its keepers all right so we'll give her a spin a little bit of a crank and then we'll adjust about just one thing to kind of settle a little bit just take a quick eyeball of stuff nice now i'm gonna go point that rotor at number one which i think was right here it's either gonna be here or here there's two locations normal and that will make it so you can adjust number one cylinder the both valves will be back which they are but they're tight i have to adjust them so that one's in compression stroke i got it wrong it is right there i'll get it anyway no i had it right it's just that i was looking at the valves one's in further than the other but it's infrared because of the valve adjustment not because of i'm not in the right location so i'm just going to go back them both off where they are not touching and we'll sneak up on it here we go [Applause] you always want to do them on cold on a vw six thou you can go if you find your motors along the noisy side you can do four but you just gotta keep an eye on it because what happens is the valve adjustment will tighten up over time and if it tightens up over time it'll burn a valve that feels pretty good just light drag and sometimes when you're tightening it down it'll change because of the the threads getting pulled up from the nut it pulls the whole thing to one side a little bit and it feels pretty good what i'm going to do is i'm going to go point the rotor at number two cylinder so i spin it actually backwards now i'm set up for number two i'll close are tight do the same i'll just do the same thing all the way around all right they're all adjusting i'm gonna go spin it again that front pulley wobble they can get pretty tight when you're trying to take them off and i'm sure whatever that guy came off of took on some damage but still better than what we had i'll take that and uh beat it with a hammer we'll get it straight uh let's go throw the compression test gauge in it and see what we get number one with the battery charger to it see if we get now that's what we need now let's go get some numbers number one number two but 20 that's more like it [Music] number three one ten and number four and one ten ish also so i got 90 120 110 and 110. i think that 90 will come up that is the cylinder i believe that we honed and put on there and the honing does not help it actually causes a leak for a little while until it gets kind of polished in so i think that those numbers will come up i think we're fine that cylinder probably come up to about 100 or 110 and we're all within uh a good range yeah you kind of 15 20 pounds you want to be in any more than that you're gonna start getting a skip at an idle on one cylinder good i think we've got a good uh long block to work with now it just needs a little little bits to make make brumburg noises let's check on number one yeah it's still at 90. it's spitting a little bit just see if we get some good oil it takes a little bit for those tubes to fill up because i blew them out make sure there's nothing in them yeah we're dripping on all of them good i'm going to fast forward a little bit and the engine is all together other than the tins we're going to take that back apart i'm going to take that back apart a little bit later and do an offset oil cooler and put them on but i want to fire it up and run it with everything off just in case you have any issues plus it's a little good for show and tell without further ado i just wanted to show what's inside of the shoe for the vacuum advance i didn't show it earlier i have a vacuum hose on it i'm just going to draw on it if you watch the the points rotate that's the advance that you get from the vacuum side of it along with the mechanical advance that's in the bottom of the distributor so that seems to work if you draw on that you keep sucking there it means the diaphragm blew out in this which is common this goes up to the carburetor and there's a metal tube that goes on there sometimes that is missing and it doesn't have the service loop in it so gas fumes go down and take out the diaphragm so it's important to have that there you go that's the factory one you can see it on there it's right to the side of the carb i think we're to the part of the show we could fire it up so let's get some gas in it you'll fill up that float bowl it took care of the pulley take the bend out of that or most of it anyway put a different fuel pump on it one that works not that we're using it right now there we go a little dribble down it let's go hook up some ground see what we get no exhaust this could be a tad loud hopefully he had no throttle return spring hold on a second i gotta get a throttle return spring yeah last thing i need to do is fire it up and let it run full throttle that's more like it ready to make noise here we go [Music] so i don't know if we got an idle circuit or not let's go fire it again i think it might be out of gas it shouldn't fire at all four corners i saw it shoot raw i don't know if that was raw fuel or oil or what that was on the number four cylinder it's not much gas let's see what it's got see for the idle [Music] [Music] [Laughter] try it again sounds pretty good there would be a bad test to do a compression test after it runs a little bit see if our numbers come up you could probably run for about five minutes with no tins on it it's not gonna overheat [Music] it warming up where the choke comes off i can dial that air fuel mix in on that carb too [Music] [Music] it's shaking so much you can't get the screwdriver on the air fuel mix that's all the way in that's one turn out let's hit it again we get a little bit of heat in it not much they're not hot yet [Music] coil's arcing out that's why it's breaking up the wire and the coil was grounded up against the intake and make support noise [Music] [Music] so so i think she's doing pretty good we're going to pop the plugs out real quick let's go do a compression test and see what our numbers turned into now everything kind of seated a little bit yeah so we get a number one 115 120 we'll call that 120 i guess it's that line right there was it 80 80 or 90 that's the one we again that we changed the jug on and honed and let's go see how the other ones do and number two that's what 130 ish and number three yeah again 130ish 130 135 call 130. and number four 115. we'll call it probably 115. there's our difference it's before again that was with a dead battery though so it wasn't helping our numbers any but they definitely popped up to right where they should be that's a a good set right there just 15 pounds between the high and the low that's awesome that will not have any issues whatsoever and it's got plenty of life left in it i would say you could probably run this engine under normal circumstances probably got 40 or 50 000 miles in it easy bottom end a little on the sloppy side is probably yeah what would take it out of the game that or mice get in it and it causes them to overheat i think that is a uh a save i would call it for the pile of junk that it was that we dragged out of there and the issues that it had it had a valve that was uh off its keepers not even doing anything the rocker assembly all fell apart and about was slapping into the piston was its main issue probably why it was taken apart from whatever engine or car that it was pulled from and you know put the rest was for that that was the original failure and then i think just from sitting all the rocker assembly that locked up on that side the exhaust valve was rotted on number one cylinder i whacked it with a hammer and it fell apart inside so we used some used parts i think we have much in it the only thing we i uh money-wise was pushrod tubes which was like 18 bucks carb kit i think was like 20-25 bucks in oil that's all we really used everything else to just use junk that i had laying around that we uh pieced it back together so i'm happy with that this can go in pretty much anything because it's set up for a bus with the uh mounts for a mustache bar and going on a dune buggy you couldn't go in a beetle and go in a kit car i can't show you that right now and you know you can go into any one of them just by changing whatever tins you have on the outside right now the stuff that i have for which is like some header exhaust and um uh fan shroud that's a simple one is more for like a a doom buggy or a trike or something along those lines i do have a a plan for this engine and i will shoot that will be at a different date different video and it already has a home if not something blows up on me between now and then this will be the backup engine for that so we got taken care of guys with that i'm gonna go sign off and thank you all for hanging out with me so much having a little bit of fun a little bit of ranching on some old junk bringing it back to life and until the next one see you soon bye what you didn't think i was going to show you it all together had to change the rear tin here because the offset of the generator did not line up with the crank so i took it back apart and stole one from another one put this in the right position got headers on it for now uh it's probably gonna have a stinger coming straight up off of this way but this is what was mocked up i think i had this crusty at one time not sure all right you want to fire it up again see what we get the carb is suspect i don't think it has a good idle circuit but again it's just a guess right now we need to get 12 volts to the coil into the to the coil into the carburetor there's a idle shutoff solenoid that might be no good usually it clicks for you for power cut it's clicking whether it's moving internally it's a different story all right shall we i think we're all set yeah i don't know about the idle circuit let me see if i can get it so i can grab the throttle the choke is on right now too quieter choke's still on as soon as that choke comes off though it's gonna die yeah it's not taking that there's no idle circuit no fuel coming in at an idle how's that huh happy we got a couple extra tins that need to go on yet there's a couple that hang down below kind of steer the cooling air down around the cylinder heads out and out this direction right now it's set up for an open an open car not boxed in so it's not that important no thermostat in it i changed the oil cooler over to the offset one so now that is out of the stream and allows the cooling air to come down over these two cylinders evenly where before it was in the path so it kind of choked off the side and gave some engine issues burning valves number three cylinder gets real hot that kind of thing okay so i think i'm good to go other than you know probably working that car a little bit i'm gonna change the flywheel over to the other one that somewhere that came with the clutch but i'll put that whole set up i want to get out of the engine stand and i think it's pretty good not bad for a 40 investment huh and a little bit of time all right guys now i'm done thank god again for hanging out with me having a little bit of fun bringing in rusty junk back to life until the next one see you later i gotta clean up what a mess [Music] [Music] closer [Music] pull the plug [Music] um a little aftermath of the surgery foreign

Channel: Mustie1

Views: 353,202

Rating: 4.9547787 out of 5

Keywords: mustie1

Id: -98lHANpXHY

Length: 72min 38sec (4358 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 14 2021