Converted this stitch down design to a Goodyearwelt shoes.

hello this is steve from beato's leatherworks today's project is this cool looking shoe now i get a lot of questions asked saying that can a glued down construction shoe be converted to your goodyear welted shoe well what's a good year well to chew you've got the uppers are turned in we've got a piece of leather right here that stitches the footbed the uppers and that piece together and then the leather sole comes on the bottom leather rubber whatever it is and it stitches to that little leather welt this is called a stitch down construction where you have the uppers kind of flare up like that sole puts on and stitches together now most of the time this kind of construction or glue down construction the glue down construction is very similar to this it's folded under and then the sole is glued onto the shoe there's no stitches involved okay trying to convert something like this to a goodyear welt which is not impossible but people ask me can it be converted well that's what we're going to do today we're going to turn this stitch down construction to a goodyear welted construction shoe now why do we do this frankly i don't know you know people ask me that question you know can it be done and me being the guy says yeah anything's possible can be done well it can be done is it worth it is it cost effective to do it this particular one um i quoted him minimum 400 the guy sent me check 400 and the shoe to do it now it costs a lot more to do that because it's very time consuming now is it possible every pair not really okay it's kind of tricky to do because you're you're kind of changing the structure of the shoe or the boot whatever you want to call it and um not every shoe slash boot is a good candidate to do that to you but we're going to do it on this one okay basically we're just going to take it apart i'll show you guys and just change the structure of it and um and i think it'll be i think it'll be okay once it gets done this has a crepe sole okay this is called plantation crepe it's crepe rubber and we're going to convert it to day night sole basically add a welt all the way around 360 degree welt which means that the wealth goes all the way around the back of the heel 270 degree weld which is from here all the way to the toe back to the heel there okay this particular one will go all the way around and um and i think it'll be okay so um once it gets done it'll just change change the look of the look of the shoe or the boot all right so it's not a new shirt i know you guys are going to ask me it's an old shirt okay i used to um i used to wear these shirts when i was kind of promoting my website leatherrepair.com but that site is so old um over 20 years old and i haven't really touched it and um i really had issues with with web designers and i finally gave up on it said you know what just leave it there so i don't advertise that anymore but you're welcome to go see it it's not a bad website but it needs to be updated big time um anyway and this watch some people ask me about this watch this is a seiko it was a gift from one of the viewers i really appreciate it thank you very much and um what else um i didn't lose weight people saying you lost weight no i'm still i still got a nice belly you know and um that hasn't changed it's still the same um what else um my daily work consists of lots of shoes and bags and jackets i tend to try to keep up with everything it's difficult but i try to do the best i can i do have help now i've got a full-time cobbler who's helping me out now he's doing pretty good actually i'm still not letting him do everything but at least he gets started i can help him put the final touches on it and i've also got a part-time uh patching guys what we call it basically we does like the the sewing adding elastics to shoes insoles sewing straps on purses minor stuff you know so which is which is kind of good because i used to be backlogged about two months now i'm kind of caught up with that it might be two three weeks four weeks we'll be turning around depending on the job some of the bigger jobs it's going to take a little bit longer all right so let's get started here he goes nothing i got my boots on by the way i click i can't raise my leg up that high like clean polished well they're not very clean anymore my last video i uh i did my boots well you know i got to take care of myself you know people are saying oh i can see steve working on his boots with his bare feet no i put another pair on god i hate that noise i wasn't barefoot no sir look at this and this is this is like a uh this is like a 600 pair of boots you know it's not a cheap boot it's an italian boot let's see what it is this is called etro e t r o milano made in italia that doesn't mean much you know okay we're creeping around almost 100 000 subscribers i don't even know what that means you know it's kind of cool i guess we need to come up with a what you will call it like like something to do when we hit hundred thousand i mean what what are some ideas guys i need your help because this is all new to me i mean giveaways is that what was that what people usually do give things away i mean i got a lot of shoes i can um like review you know as a matter of fact there's gonna be a video coming soon let me see if i can grab the shoe this is a carmine issue okay a while back um i let you guys i told you guys that carmina contacted me saying that they want to do something with you know with us so i'm going to redo that shoe since it was kind of given to me it wasn't you know i didn't buy it so i'd like to kind of pay it forward you know to some of the viewers this is a size nine and a half so what we're going to do we're going to redo the soles and take it apart and talk about you know basic construction how good the shoe is and after it gets done i want to kind of donate it to somebody but i don't know i don't know i'm still learning this youtube lingo and i gotta figure out how i'm gonna do it you know so hopefully some of you viewers have some ideas on how to donate stuff you know and you know i don't i don't like the fact that if i donated is somebody going to turn around to sell it you know what i mean is i i guess it's possible but i guess i can't worry about that i can't control that once it leaves my hands you know what i mean be kind of kind of a disappointed if that happens because i'd like for the customer to you know basically wear it you know and enjoy the shoes not try to sell it and make money off of it that's not cool so let me know guys in the comments section how can i how can i what can i do to kind of do like a little a thank you giveaway whatever we want to call it whenever we reach a hundred thousand but this will be this carmina shoe will be done before that hopefully in a week or two i know we're not gonna we're not gonna hit a hundred thousand a week or two just creeping up slowly which is kind of cool so we remove the sole as you can see there's not much to the shoe this is the uppers look how flat it is i mean just uh you know a leather piece leather lining a toe um stiffener which is not much of a sniff no but still a little bit of toast let me try that again toe stiffer just gives it a little bit of structural support around the front of the shoe and the back cool all right the stitches are clean all right let's continue this is what we call a last l-a-s-t this is how shoes are made basically right the uppers are done and stretches over here this is the shape of the foot shape of the toe this is what dictates what shape the finished shoe is going to look like the shape of the stove some are rounded some are squared off okay so basically what we did we wet the uppers down okay with a little bit of um 50 rubbing alcohol 50 water this is just to kind of relax a little bit so i can reshape it okay now as you guys can see you know it's it's changing the look already okay because we're taking the uppers we're curving it down instead of it flared out and stitched down which is called a stitch down construction now we need to kind of have the customer's foot shape in order to know what's you know how we're going to do it if it's going to fit the customer you know after it gets done now this is this is the footbed that was there okay we're going to reuse this it's going to give us basically the shape that we want how do we do that because this is a lot wider than a regular whatchamacallit footbed a goodyear wall to footbed we're going to cut this about half an inch all the way around okay that's going to give us the inside measurement of the shape of the foot then we're going to basically attach a gaming the gaming is i don't have one already apart i'll show you actually here this is a perfect example i took this apart yesterday with another pair this imagine being the footbed that you step on you see the foot impression ball of the foot the toes this is what that piece is going to be so we're going to attach this fabric this is called a gaming right there which is going to allow the uppers to come over like this and put the welt on and re-stitch it this is these are the stitches that you're seeing that we're going to stitch the welt on with so this gives you a better idea of what how did how we're going to con you know you change the construction of it so so again this is not a it's not a difficult job but this is almost like making a shoe you know of course making your shoes a lot more complicated i'm not a shoemaker i was never taught to be a shoemaker even though my dad was a shoemaker but unfortunately he never he never taught me the proper way to make shoes which is you know the detail as far as you know taking measurements and how high the back needs to be the toe shape everything there's a lot of detail as it comes to making shoes so i'm kind of winging it so i'm sure there's some people watching saying oh that's not how it's done man i know i'm just kind of improvising okay so i think that'll be all right all right let's continue all right now so this is this is what's going to dictate the shape of the shoe and the fit this piece here this footbed and this is called a gaming this is a piece of canvas basically we glue right on the edge and once once we lift this up right here the uppers will come in like this the welt everything gets stitched on okay it'll look you know like that once it's finished now there's different ways of doing goodyear welted construction okay this is basically like a production goodyear welted method this is called hold fast okay basically it's a piece of leather it's carved a little channel right there it's the same shape as this just like that so instead of a gaming it's actually stitched on through the leather piece uppers and the welt this is much more durable construction most of the custom shoemakers bespoke shoemakers will do it like that and most of the production shoes will do like the way i'm doing here obviously it's not done by hand it's all machined it's glued on like five seconds you know but i'm not a manufacturer so i i'll do it by hand one pair at a time so there's lots of different little details that are involved with you know making an actual shoe and again i'm just kind of i mean i i haven't studied shoe making which which i'd love to do i always say when i retire i'll start learning how to make shoes you know when i retire maybe it's time let me just sell the business and just do mail orders that's it something to think about that's for sure i wouldn't stop working no of course not i just wouldn't have a shop anymore you know which is just okay i mean it's not bad it's not a bad thing i gotta make sure that you know it gets sold to somebody who knows what they're doing you know well i would keep the name probably i would keep the i really never thought about it but i guess we would give them like a six month transition time you know and then they would have to put their own name on the business i'd keep be those leatherworks you know and i could i guess i can open up a little like a workshop in my in my garage and do mail orders only which is something i've thought about dealing before i don't know i guess i'm not ready just yet just to give up on the shop oh there's going to be hammer time today okay i know you all were complaining about last time it's not hammer time all right i'm coming i'm coming it's getting there all right damiola are so impatient last one i didn't talk too much actually some people like the fact that i didn't talk too much you guys are such diverse viewers right you know at some point people are so glad that i do something and then on the other hand there's people like oh man don't do that that's not good oh lord i i like look when i do these voices or or say these things i have fun with you guys you know i told you guys last time just too serious this world man lighten up a little bit it's not it's not a big deal we're fixing shoes for crying out loud there are other you know worst things in the world that i could be doing thank god i got the strength and patience and knowledge to share with you guys what i do and when i when i when i do the complainer voice it's not it's not a bad thing it's just it's just making fun of myself with that voice and in the comments you know like last time when i did that i guess was a happy gilmore voice like shut up shut up you know somebody's like well by the time you looked that up and found that you could have done this and that i know that it was just making fun god you guys got to relax relax it's going to be my saying now relax somebody complain about that don't tell me to relax i'll do what i want to do shut up oh lord i cracked myself up all right getting back to this so as you guys can see the gaming is done we are getting there i love what i do [Music] all right let's continue so basically as you guys can see i've temporarily stitched the toe to kind of reshape that before i put the welt on okay we're going to add a couple more stitches here on the sides just to kind of give it some shape let it dry like that and then we'll go ahead come in and put the welt on and put a sole on all right it's getting there all right let's continue all righty alrighty alrighty so this project continues now we get to stitch on the weld make sure the thread is even on both sides and simply we follow the old holes of the stitch previous stitch okay now this is going to take me a while to stitch so i won't bore you with all these little with all the little details basically we're just going to stitch it all the way around like that and it becomes a good year well to chew okay let's continue [Music] [Music] um she is getting there now we put the metal shank cover that with leather cork on the front we'll sand this down and we'll do that stitch it put the heel base put the heel lift clean it up finished excuse me one more oh my goodness i usually do three in a row i'm allergic to shoes man that cracks me [Music] so as you guys can see it's coming along fairly good no complications that came up just had to improvise a couple times but other than that no bad you guys always make a comment about my glue pot right well it's a glue pot and as you work as you pull the brush away you're gonna have lots of you know like leftovers see like that once in a while gets piled up and what i'll do is i shall clean it up see man i've seen some of my friends glue pots you can't even tell it's a glue pot anymore because it's so built up like that it's like a work of art see make a ball out of it all right let's get this how can i forget hammer time you guys won't love me you know you see how the shoe moves around right i mean you see me pounding but there's a little there's there's a way to do this where when you're hammering the back of the heel you got to make sure that it's all the way up this way so you got the last underneath okay if it's back here obviously it's not going to work so as i'm hammering it i move the boot around or shoot around make sure that last is underneath there it's not just hammering the sole on there's a little arc i guess there's an art behind it voila now this is my apprentice's last that's why it's moving mine is not moving here not as much anyway i want to show you guys something i came across a iron last that my dad uses i'm sorry used to use jesus only been 30 some years or close to 30 years and he brought it all the way over from lebanon and um basically he found a tree stump and he put that in there it's just like this idea but it's shorter where he sat down in a little small chair and you know pound it away i have to find that in the basement somewhere i was looking for something the other day and came across that all right as you guys can see it's beginning to look like shoot we're going to go ahead and trim this a little bit because it's still a little too wide open a groove stitch it put the heel stacked heel and the top left arm or the other way and she's getting there all right let's continue look my knife is tied to the machine it's not going anywhere because i always lose the damn thing i made it long enough so it'll fit all three machines so this is what we call the outsole stitcher right it literally stitches the sole on the outside like that you see now you got a nice beautiful stitch on the welt all the way around beautiful red stitching the color doesn't matter the color is just basically it's just that i you know you can do whatever you want you know you could do white black uh green yellow red blue whatever you want it's nothing structural it's just the statics i like the red it's kind of gives it a nice contrast so now we've converted the shoe into a good year last to shoot which is very cool i like the way it turned out all right oh man i forgot to bring the last over all right i promise i'll go get that i'll go get that last i was telling you guys about [Music] here it is now hold on let me see if i can forward this show you guys i don't know how old this is okay but it's pretty crude as you can see it's it's handmade [Music] so let's do some let's do some math so my dad was 60 when he died that was almost 30 years ago so if he was say when he was 20 he started you know working let's just you know that's 70 years right there so i mean at least this is at least 70 years old at least i would say at least right now he put a tree stump tree stumps got a crack in it i'm gonna have to put a band around it to hold it together basically you'd sit there and you put the shoe in your hammer away or you stitch or whatever you ought to do so i don't use it anymore i used to use it but i don't use it anymore i don't i don't want to use it anymore i want to kind of keep it and just make sure that it's safe i don't know what i'm going to do with it you know when i die and i'm done what am i kids going to do throw it away who knows hopefully that won't be for a while so i'll just keep it and uh maybe put in a corner of the room for for um just to you know just have it along with his other tools okay that's what i'm talking about see you i mean let's continue i'm just putting a little pattern on the side here with a stitch again it's all aesthetics right it's nothing to do structural because they're going to walk on i think it's going to wear off you know what i don't care i think it kind of looks cool adds a little detail as you can see it doesn't take me that long to do it where is it at you can see that very faint but somebody can see it appreciates it oh this was a nice project i know i have a feeling that i'm going to be getting calls and requests to basically convert shoes to goodyear wealth of shoes now i don't know how to say this but not all shoes are a good candidate okay and you've got minimum six hundred dollars to to drop on a shoe repair i'll be glad to take a look at it but but it's not easy nor cheap okay keep that in mind [Music] okay now finalize stitching i mean sanding cleaning polishing will be ready to go i put this tape here on the inside part of the shoe because when i'm stitching it you get the thread lubricant on that area and i didn't want that to get dirty not that it's not clean well we'll clean it up a little bit looks a little blotchy but it'll be all right once it gets done all right let's continue okay we're getting there i sprayed a little bit of a conditioner here i don't know if this is available on the market but i know it's just for us in the trade these are these are good people lm professional this is basically um another suede i should say suede um suede conditioner works pretty good i don't think i sprayed this one this is an italian product so you might have a hard time finding it at your local at your local shoe repair shop alrighty alrighty alrighty these are looking good i think the customer's gonna be very happy not too bad not too shabby i got one more detail to do which is putting the pattern on the welt with my fudge wheel fudge wheel okay that's just putting a little pattern on the edge of the edge of the welt now this is usually hot when it's applied on there but that wealth is still a little wet so it's soft enough to put the pattern on again little details makes it worthwhile i don't know if you guys can see it it's a little ridges there touch it up a little bit there too all right i think we're done all right let's continue all right welcome back we are done with another project i think they turn up pretty good it's a nice solid shoe now now i get a lot of requests for i should say request questions that can a particular design shoe be converted to a goodyear welt like um like blake stitch shoes blake stitcher basically it's the sole comes on and it and it stitches from the inside inside out okay or just a glue on construction where you've got the sole just glued on to the uppers well when it's that kind of a design it's a glue-on construction the uppers fall down and the sole comes on top of it well goodyear is a lot different obviously this was a stitched down construction where the uppers went out and stitched to the sole now not all shoes are constructed the type of quality that it's a good idea to do this kind of a job okay it's a lot of work um forget the money aspect of it um it's if it's possible structurally if it would work or not okay not all shoes are a good candidate for it can it be done i'm sure it can be done anything is possible but at what cost okay like i said earlier i gave the customer a quote for 400 but these type of jobs minimum 600 and up it really depends on what type of shoe you have you know and how long it's going to take me to do it how well it's going to work there's a lot of little ifs in between you know if we decide to do it or not so you know i don't want to get emails down hey i got this shoe i got that shoe can you convert it to goodyear well again anything is possible but sometimes you gotta weigh the the quality of the shoe how well it's gonna turn out if you're gonna get many years of use out of it and the cost of the repair well this isn't really a repair it's like a restoration i would say right restomod yeah it's what it is so um so yeah if you have any questions you're welcome to email me i'm still getting a comment section i'm still getting questions uh regarding the particular items that you have if it can be done how it can be done how much would cost guys please email me okay it's b-e-d-o-s yahoo.com and um and i'll see if i can get to that timely manner lately i've been kind of slacking on the emails but i promise you i will get to them as soon as i can and i'll answer them accordingly okay thank you very much again for joining me i appreciate it you guys are welcome to share make comments i guess there's no bell notifications anymore is what i'm hearing forget about the bell then don't worry about it forget about it and just subscribe if you don't mind and i greatly appreciate it all right thanks again we'll see you guys on the next project take care

Channel: Bedo's Leatherworks LLC

Views: 147,980

Keywords: dress shoe repair, dress shoe restration, bag restoration, leather goods, leather restoration, allen edmonds, louis vuittion, gucci, tom ford, christian louboutin, mens style, men shoes, john lobb, soles, fancy soles, fancy soles john lobb, jr soles, blind stitch, leather, leather work, style, fashion, new age, cobbler, craftsmen, artist, custom work, walkthrough, remade, shoe, shoe shop, shoe sale, mens fashion, church shoes, AE, jacket repair, Leatherman's jacket, varsity jacket

Id: ZJYcRAPZhhM

Length: 44min 39sec (2679 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 29 2020