Are "Enola Holmes" (2020) Costumes Historically Accurate?

hello there is this new netflix adventurous victorian slash teen romance thing that's called nola homes and i remember watching the trailer for it and thinking it looks like a complete mess but it's also kind of fun and i feel like that describes the costumes nicely the main issue i have with them is that they're a complete mess timeline wise like they don't really so if you google when is anola holmes movie set it says 19th century and i think it describes pretty well the approach they had to the particular dates of the costumes because it's hard to tell whether it's supposed to be 1880s 1890s or 1900s sometimes because it's all kind of mixed there is a couple of things they did really nicely first of all i love the textures of the fabric i think they used a lot of linen and cotton especially for nola's clothes and i feel like that works really nicely because it's something that you don't see often in victorian set period dramas like there is a lot of silk going on there is a lot of shiny surfaces and shiny fabrics a lot of trimmings whereas there was a lot of simpler garments too and considering that anola lives in kind of an impoverished big house it makes total sense for her to be wearing a lot of cotton and simpler fabrics and talking of fabrics there's a lot of layering going on especially when it comes to her house costumes as i would call them there's a lot of aprons there is a lot of petticoats there is a lot of stuff going on in terms of layers which i really appreciate so there is that they also did nice sportswear costumes which don't appear in movies too often like the victor and sportswear is maybe something that's a bit omitted and also i've noticed a lot of extras are wearing choruses wearing proper underwear wearing the right accessories and a lot of extras are basically looking really nice which is not always so obvious when it comes to pure dramas especially those made by netflix that being said there was a couple of things i didn't like but i'm not gonna go into them right now i'm just going to analyze each costume mostly in nola's costume but also other female characters in the in the movie because i'm not going to do the men victorian fashion you won't make me do it i can't so i'm going to start off with a nola's blue dress her fashions her personal dresses seem to be inspired by late 1880s early 19 early 18 what early 1890s style she has a gathered waist they're quite simple and girly which i love like you often see teenage characters in movies wearing like full-on grown-up costumes and that's not something that would happen in victor on era you had like a completely separate fashion for teenagers and her style is quite relaxed it screams countryside to me which i guess it's a good choice also seems to be a little bit inspired by the aesthetic movement of the late 19th century like there's a lot of plane fabrics gatherings art nouveau style embroidery sometimes which i think is really nice there is also this group shot of women when we explore anola's memories or where she tells us the story and you can see it's kind of eclectic like i can't really pinpoint which year it's supposed to be the main issue i have is the women's hair like i have no idea what that's supposed to be the further back you go the weirder it gets like the lady holding a teacup it looks honestly like 1830s to me or 1860s at most the lady next to her looks 1870s but then you get the tight bodices the lady in front is like late 1870s i don't know it's kind of hard to guess and nola's mom i guess they wanted to make her really like original and charismatic because none of her costumes make any sense like time timewise like i don't know what it's supposed to be i'm guessing it's like 1880s but neither the silhouette nor the shape of the skirts tell me that i'm just kind of guessing and neither the hair because it's obviously supposed to be messy here we have an attempted sportswear i like it nola's vest i think it's pretty cool but i'm i'm not really buying the shirt that helena bonham carter is wearing like it doesn't look victorian at all it reminds me of the shirt i used for my own period drama because i couldn't afford making a shirt so see that's the that's what i'm talking about that's what helena bonham corridor's character is wearing like i'm not sure if it's supposed to be 1870s or 1880s the silhouette is not telling me anything neither is the foot the gathered skirt suggests it's somewhere around the bustle ear but as we know the bustle era lasted for at least two decades so it's kind of hard to tell i really love this apron that anola is wearing in one of the scenes the shoe is not so much but there's they're still pretty good but the apron though i love the fabric and i love the pattern on it and i think it's also pieced as well which is pretty cool here is another example oh no here is another example of vanilla's apron this one goes all over her bodice as well i just think it's it's nice to see someone wearing workwear if you can call it that so here is one of the costumes i thought is kind of a mess it's the costume that the maid wears when she's pouring drinks for the for the gentleman and there's something off about the back of the whole dress because it looks like a princess line dress sort of like a late 1870s one like 1878 or something but then i'm not sure if it's supposed to be pleats or or if it's a pulled up skirt because what it looks like to me is it looks like pleats that haven't been ironed properly and i'm pretty sure that's not the point here i'm pretty sure it was supposed to be like sort of a polonaise style pulled up skirt but it just looks really sad and miserable so i'm not sure it's doing its job here's another thing that got me really confused when the headmistress of the school arrives she's wearing sort of like a red and goat but it seems really edwardian to me i don't know why maybe because she's driving an automobile which wasn't really that popular in 1880s the whole outfit just really screams edward into me and that's what kind of sets me like 20 years forward so now i'm just really confused but then she takes it off and it looks low-key like late 1870s bustle and i also don't really get the headmistress silhouette like what's going on with her silhouette because it really looks 18th century to me the line of the corset is just too straight it's just too much of a shelf to me it looks like she's wearing stays and she's not 1880s and 1870s were all about those sweet curves so both your busts and your hips would be completely like soft to accentuate your curvy silhouette and that would have been done by corset and padding whereas here it honestly could have been an 18th century writing habit and i wouldn't even notice here is one of my favorite costumes in the movie even though i'm not sure which year it was supposed to be but what i interpreted as is um i'm i'm sure it's supposed to be like early 1880s i'm talking about the lord tewksbury's mother she's wearing something that i would pinpoint in let's say between 1880 and 1882 like the natural form or early battle early second bustle era and i love her outfit i think it looks great and the skirt the narrow skirt is really doing its job and it's a it's a pretty good outfit but considering that most of the extras are wearing later fashions and she is the rich one again i'm just not sure um and then the grandma is wearing something that could even be described but as edwardian if you look at the silhouette from the distance the skirt is way more fashionable than what the mother is wearing so there is that and all those boys clothes she's wearing boys clothes twice in the movie here is the first outfit that was supposedly it used to be sherlock's outfit which i'm not really buying because if this is 1880s he would have been a boy in like 1850s which is not what like they would have known the difference and it doesn't look like 1850s clothes at all especially considering that he wasn't a farmer's son he was kind of rich so i'm not buying this outfit at all especially the cap looks pretty awkward and the pants are too tight so about the extras though here's a couple of people that kind of look default victorian but there is this lady that is wearing something that i would say is like mid-edwardian that's again something that kind of took me out of the movie because i was like okay which year is this i need to know so here we have a pretty nice attempt at victorian street shop except they're selling crinolines and i'm like but that's like 30 years too late no one cares about the crinolines at this point and i know there's a lot of photographs and i recognized you know the inspiration immediately except it's like 30 years too late and you see a lady literally wearing a bustle looking at a crinoline you know at that time wearing vintage fashions wasn't really a thing unless they were specifically designed to resemble previous fashions anyway we do get a really nice extra looking pretty rough in the foreground and that's something i i think is pretty cool again two bustled ladies looking pretty cool and then a crinoline and i'm like oh okay here is one of my favorite things about this movie and it's pretty ironic considering that there's a scene where anola explicitly says that corsets are a symbol of repression but just look at this beauty may i interest you in a beautiful corset because i was actually fooled for a bit i didn't know that this corset was going to be like involved in the scene and i thought wow they did take an original victorian core set and use it as a prop but no uh she's going to wear it and it's going to play a pretty significant role in the movie so anyway i have no idea where they got this corset from because it's just really well made just look at this beauty the curves are amazing and i would be really surprised if they did make a corset that good especially for this movie but if they did then kudos to them because that's one of the best courses i've seen in movies actually it just it's really good if it is set in 1880s or 1890s because if it's not then i take it all back maybe it doesn't give her the best singed ways there is and it's also quite loose at the back you can see the gap is quite big which again brings me back to the point was it custom made or did they somehow get an original victorian corset for this scene because honestly it's just too good we also have a nice shot of the shoes which kind of look 1870s to me the front shape but i'm not judging she can be wearing old shoes in this scene and we also have a nice shot of the underwear um she's also wearing a pretty convincing caged bustle they also did the hair pieces which i don't think is featured in movies often like the hairstyle they came up with is not entirely historical but just the fact that she's using hair pieces is quite unusual for a period piece because usually they don't really concentrate on that but she has a nice chimes proper pantaloons slash drawers and generally speaking it's not too bad the dress though the silhouette of the of the dress to me speaks too much 18th century just a flattened chest and overall conical shape is very late 18th century to me when it comes to her bustle skirt it reminds me of 1880 skirts that i've seen on some paintings which i guess was quite popular so i'm gonna give it a pass it's the bodice that doesn't speak to me too much mainly the weird neckline it kind of looks like the bodice is 1870s and the skirt is 1880s and that neckline for daywear is also quite controversial so i'm not sure a young lady would be wearing something like this he received more of this skirt and again the drapes look 1880s the overall shape of the skirt though reminds me of 1870s so the lady next to her though is wearing quite a nice outfit even though the bodice and the skirt are kind of mismatched then you get some edwardian looking extras on the right and here's what the back of the skirt looks like it's a bit too much of a mess for me to make it a convincing 1880s skirt but then she's also buying the dress second hand or hiring it i'm not sure so in that case probably wouldn't be perfect then we get this outfit the lady's hair is 1910s it's honestly nowhere near victorian and so is her blouse like it kind of screams turn of the century and then the skirt is maybe it could have been interpreted as an 1880s working skirt but i don't see it in the shape and the shape is kind of still a dwarfing to me so that's where i was kind of really confused because she's obviously middle class like she's she owns a cafe so why is she wearing clothes that are more modern than the rich ladies just look at that look at the blouse like the fit is kind of off because if it was supposed to be gathered waist it's not if it's supposed to be fitting it's not and then you get the puffy sleeves which are like late 1880s 1890s and 1900s so i'm just i'm just really not getting the idea here what i do like about it is that they actually did some research on what sports clothes looked like and granted it's more of an edwardian thing like 1880s sports clothing did not look like that it's more of a 1900s 1910s thing but they did wear stuff like that sometimes and you can find it on on fashion plates and ass and caricatures and satires and stuff like this then we have the widow outfit which was one of my favorites in the movie i guess it was really nicely done i really like the trimming and the details i wasn't a huge fan of the weird helmet style hat because why can't we see any of her hair where is her fringe where is the sides of her hair it was kind of like a helmet to me and i'm also again a bit lost on which ear eyes is that because it does look 1870s and you know considering again she got it she got the outfit somewhere um it could be it could be earlier than 1880s but at the same time it's a bit confusing because it's not wide enough this is a really funny shot by the way so we have boys clothes part two and i think their biggest flaw is that they look basically the same as the first set of clothing that she wore that was supposed to be boys clothing because it's like they're like 30 years apart and they look basically the same the cap just irks me i don't like the cap i don't know why and it just looks like your default victorian boy outfit there's just something about the fit of it i don't really buy i was really enjoying the grandma looks mainly because of all the detail have a look at this shot there is just so much involved we have the black possibly jet um beads we have the the cap that pretty much looks like an original cap we have a lot of lace and i think it's like three different kinds of lace and that that's what what victorian is there is a lot of going on because you want to show that you're rich so her whole outfit is kind of eclectic but it also involves a lot of textures a lot of different fabrics and i think that's pretty believable even though the silhouette is a bit of a mess but then it kind of screams queen victoria after albert died so i'd say she's wearing like late 1870s which considering it's supposed to be i guess 1880s it does make sense because elderly people usually wore previous fashions here's another's pink dress and i think the fit is pretty nice but if it was supposed to be 1880s it looks very 1870s especially the bodice the sleeves the trimming the neckline but then the back does not so you know i guess it's an adventure movie it's not supposed to be realistic you get the draped skirt in front but then the back is kind of flat so again the silhouette is a bit confusing to me and look at that the head mistress is damn silhouette i don't understand what's going on here 1880s were all about the curves right so you were supposed to literally look like an hourglass and if you look at photographs from the era women did their best to actually achieve that look and it wasn't only about the course sitting it was a lot of construction work on the damn bodice it was a lot of padding involved a lot of you know structural garments such as bustles and pads and stuff like that and here it's just i'm confused as to what's going on because it basically looks like she's wearing a corseted top and then it's just her hips and maybe some padding i don't know it's just it doesn't look hourglass at all and the bodice gives me 18 century vibes again because it's just straight like that it shouldn't be like that this apparently this is a princess line dress which i would set in like 1878 circa see look at that 18th century style bodice what is going on the school uniforms are very puritan to me they actually were um pretty chilled dresses in in 19th century female schools they didn't look like nuns but i'm guessing that's for comical effect and it's supposed to show how strict this goal was so i'm gonna give it a pass because it achieves that look we have a corset tightening scene because wow i don't think i've seen a single victorian movie about women that didn't feature the stroke but obviously anola is struggling and she's in a lot of pain because she's tightening her core set and the corset itself looks pretty nice and it's nice that before that she hired or bought i'm not sure a corset that was definitely not for her because teenage girls back then were expected to wear softer core sets and the boning would have been a lot more chill so she bought a whole ass whale bone corset but in an actual school given the actual proper clothes you can see that the corset is much softer and i think it's even corded instead of boned or it features a lot less boning anyway but for some reason it gave her a lot more trouble than the whalebone one that she was able to fight two fights in but okay never mind corset logic right there see i love how ironically this movie even though it featured an an overtly anti-corset quote it also showed that she's able to be a complete badass and fight the bad guys in a core set then we have a more relaxed cream dress which is one of my favorites actually i think it's really pretty this is the one that i think draws the most from the aesthetic style of late 19th century um mainly because of the embroidery the cut and even the color i think and it's nice that it comes back to her personal style like she's been wearing loose gowns gathered in the ways that are a bit shorter as well in the beginning of the movie and in the end of the movie when she's kind of regaining her independence that's what she's back to wearing which makes a lot of sense character-wise but it's also a bit anachronistic considering all of the extras are wearing full-on 1880s gowns and she's out there looking like a snack except it's a 1900 snack or an late 1890s snack so overall it's a bit eclectic i think the film would benefit from pinpointing the particular time span and sticking to it and i guess it did somehow when it comes to all of the extras and less significant characters but then some of the characters are all of the sudden wearing different styles and different eras and you know don't get me wrong it's not a hysterical it's not a fully historical movie it's it's a bit of a fantasy in a way like a lot of the stuff is really unrealistic but i just think it would leave me less confused that's what i'm saying but you know i'm really i'm really curious about the corset though because it looks really good yeah that's all i have to say about another home's clothes costumes whatever yeah so

Channel: Karolina Żebrowska

Views: 655,719

Rating: 4.9628062 out of 5

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Id: ZA8AfYiPiR8

Length: 19min 36sec (1176 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 28 2020