ANOC World Beach Games Qatar 2019 - Bouldering Finals

[Music] there is a rule here tonight in this final it's the two plus two rule so athletes will have two minutes to get to the zone hole if they don't get to the zone holding that two minutes they're off the wall back to isolation if they get to that zone hold then they're granted the extra two minutes to find the top hole very unusual i think it's to prevent it and tell them to get on with it so they've got to find that zone hold in quick time otherwise they could have second a lot of pressure going into that second minute of play i think he's gonna have already found the zone hold already so less pressure on the 23 year old german on this first route of four by the sixth athletes will tackle now if you're new to bouldering the idea is simple they have four problems along this wall and the idea of them is to get first that's the zone got to get to the uh the top hole to have both hands on it with control under the top next to their name and if they do that and have the most chops across all four problems a winner if you have a tie in the mountain chops then they go to the amount of zone holds that's the supplementary holder you just saw kind of labeled and yellow on these roots that acts as the first tiebreaker if that's a tie then we've got a number of attempts it has taken the athletes to find all four of these tops and if that's a tie and it's the amount of attempts to zone three of the allotted four [Music] he's in the 23 year from bud in germany as i mentioned no results on the world cup circuit this season made a world semi-final and in paris at the world championships in the bersey arena three years ago already defeated the 23 year old german g head back into isolation he's just troubling the scores as well this hotbed of climbing at the moment [Music] julia is a country that is getting paid in dividends right now with the [Music] world championships [Applause] [Music] repeat six very respectable results in the latter part of the season with 17th place out in munich at the world cup at the olympic stadium then the heart german city and made the semi-final out of the world championships seven weeks ago in hachiyochi and also 12 months ago that was her best for finishing the world cup circus as well when she found the 12th [Music] place our reset is suggesting it's an easy start not very hard as soon as they get past the [Music] tricky opening it's gonna be a dynamic move to the last hold [Applause] but this opening hole really testing the opening out of climbers [Music] it's sometimes the most frustrating for the athletes involved it tests [Music] the mental side as well a minute to go for usage many of these athletes will know the methodology in the pizza how to do these roots they'll have the theory [Music] to practice [Applause] in the competition the 34 year old from taipei [Applause] 18th places had to win this season on the asian circuit she won the asia cup out in hong kong earlier this season an invitational event for athletes from that part of the world surprise entry into this world peace games but a very respectable fourth place in the semi-final fought for 34 years from sci-fi [Music] already found the zone so it's very important that she gets her extra two minutes two minutes we'll have four minutes it's very sticky nights here to go huh this monday evening in the katardi capital the weather today a little bit cooler let's say a little bit cooler still 36 degrees celsius [Music] a very sticky 30. three degrees celsius for the climbers there's no excuses really because they have two gigantic fans at either end of the stage that's keeping them cool these fans are at least a meter and a half wide as well so the athletes getting cool conditions as they tackle these four routes sticky conditions that the spectators and the media have just in front of this wall halfway through the allocation for the thirteen-year-old club the next move she is seems to have much difficulty with [Music] is took part in four of the six world cups this season 18th place finish up in china finish at the world championships in hashiochi seven weeks [Music] taking part in this final if you would ask the clan fraternity here and hangingly calls it a day on the first problem maybe they fear the two the final two climbers petra klingler of switzerland and mio nanaka of japan [Music] quantity to come in here which is the next athlete from italy 36 in the world only two events out of the seven possible bordering events this season she's taken part in they respectful 23rd in morenga and switzerland that's the opening one of the year but interestingly enough nearly made the final out in munich fifth place finish in the world views 18 years of age who has some talent maybe just maybe he could be the one [Music] foreign [Applause] so far but it's gonna be a technical move coming here [Music] [Applause] [Music] otherwise that happens well that's the deepest so far we've seen she won first place to the last move that's the way they've written this particular just over two test get to the next part of this ridge peroni 36 in the world [Music] [Music] maybe one last attack to come here 40 seconds left to go [Music] as of yet [Music] [Applause] and if any of the athletes are going to find the tops winning at the arena then panic in 2016. amazingly only two wins in her illustrious career one was a world cup and the other was a world title in 2015 which is a very versatile final food in less than 30 seconds start already in tokyo next year at the olympic games after making the final of the combined event at the world championships the top seven in that final made it through but as there was a number of japanese athletes and the quota was only two allowed i and believe from finishing in the top eight got her place on the plane to tokyo for the olympic games day 13 to 16 i believe [Music] cling lap made two finals on the bouldering circuit this season one in uh merengue on home soil which came in a very creditable fifth place and a fourth place finish out in chongqing that's in china but this opening bowl there and our root set as we're predicting all four tops will be with the [Music] coming up [Music] reach the top of course [Applause] [Music] space [Music] 15 seconds and patrick klinger struggling here and i think that's that so then we're zero for fight on this opening problem [Music] maybe a three-time world cup winner silver medalist will be the one maybe to solve this first problem from japan the 22 year old from tokyo from tokyo she won first cup in place i live in switzerland many other great results that she's had in 2018 and 2019. 15 in the world this year in the finals at the top of the game and the bonuses much like the rest of the fields very long and hard weekly of the root daily who are explaining to me that sometimes i'll do 30 around 30 hours a week of just training of course if they're still studying that works very nicely a lot of the consensus as well we are playing the two plus two rule here today that athletes must find the zone holder in two minutes they're open in two minutes [Music] [Applause] the end of this problem that's how it's done halfway through for a lot of time [Music] come up [Music] you feel your sex [Music] [Applause] from tokyo and she has a big lead after problem number one she's the only one of the six to top hands and she has the lead and this ain't a goal for each games final so reminder on the back [Music] got to relax our route as close as you can to that wall so we maintain that locked position and now commits all the way to that small hole for making the real [Applause] she will take the lead momentarily with fine athletes still to go on top two zones for the 23 year old germany [Applause] [Music] athletes may have this problem they all know you feel how to do this [Music] all the athletes had observation time beforehand it's fine nothing happened [Music] [Music] she may need to hold her balance she's regained the composure well there inching her way across but left foot is beginning to shake a little here she needs to regain her balance here before making this next move not go in the way of the slovenian and there's only one way that was going to win he's going to have her left foot about another four or five inches further up that blue volume gives yourself a little bit of a before she moment this once more [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] is [Music] [Applause] attempts to top taipei observation time they're only allowed to hold on to the starting hold and that was it and then they had to mentally decided [Music] [Music] [Applause] and she is tied for the lead along with bloody kids [Music] [Music] [Music] isolation that the first of the athletes have done this pretty sharpish as well so it does build the pressure for the later athletes to come out here but knowing that this second problem can get you on the scoreboard so again especially with klingler and the man they start to come as well baldwin competitions have been won and lost on one attempt seen that many many times down the years [Music] [Music] well done to the italian who tops out on their second goal they'll put it to tight third had taken two attempts on that particular boulder so now just two athletes still to go out and that is patrick klingler's results again in yet to go on this second problem [Music] too [Music] [Music] the left foot is not giving much room for the right foot to go on so i think she's going to try and inch it just shimmy across a little there you go now it gives a little bit more room for the right foot to balance [Music] [Applause] [Applause] former world champion she gets back into isolation time for the lead one top two zones one attempt to find that top knowing that the five athletes previous of all top dogs so this one's been a bit of a gift from our roots [Music] knowing that the destiny is in our own [Music] having one top more than the rest of the field gives it a huge advantage [Applause] [Music] please do this goes back to the top of the leaderboard and after cheering so let the key is good now going on problem number three very much a new school style of boulder running across a number of attempts can happen here and bearing in mind the two plus two rules in effect here so they don't find that zone in two minutes but off the wall so this could provide separation in this field all about coordination and patience have you got enough time [Music] [Music] she's only got a minute to go to find this zone can't wait to be wasting time [Music] now she understands that the clock is got to do this before the timer hits two minutes and she's only got 34 seconds she only needs to find the zone hold and then she'll get the extra two minutes 25 seconds it's mainly time for one more go otherwise lily keys gonna have to go back into isolation gotta hit it now ten seconds gotta be quick i'm gonna be quick it's gonna be very quick i'm not sure if you know what this is not get the rule here two one i think if you start until you finish but no really he's good let's go back into isolation no zone found in two minutes [Applause] move on to the next athlete so this third particular boulder looks like some provide separation in this competition [Applause] [Music] first across the 19 year old's there's face silence comes across the arena here inspire park in she's dublin 50 seconds of her time got to find the zone holding nice complete that route otherwise should be following lily keys going back into [Applause] the isolation [Applause] [Music] [Applause] oh yes just in time she's got the zone she gets the extra two minutes [Applause] so she can take a little bit of a break here but she took up a number of attempts there i counted five or six at least so does it seem like such a big draw but these things [Applause] well done now then can she figure out the methodology here think to the right to make her way towards a tiny little crimp hold on for the young slovenian and we'll put it as [Music] 40 seconds left loads still loads of time plenty of the crowd here in delhi right behind this 19 year old she's trying to find [Applause] [Music] second place and that's as far as she goes that one you feel if an athlete can top out here they may be going favourites to take the gold here such a difficult problem especially with the pressure of this two plus two rule that we've employed here that they've got to find the zone hold in the first two minutes that's the same boulder that really didn't manage to finish so it's a tough fruit as we can there we saw some fantastic moves yesterday jumping from our nails that took part in the semi finals yesterday some really tough ones one minute down to get through that first part of the starting hold to get to the zone 43 seconds to go for the 34 year old from taipei now she's beginning to rush knowing that time is not on their side gonna be quick 15 seconds did this on the buzzer as it were so she's allowed to finish this attempt and should be granted the extra two minutes failure here is back in isolation [Applause] [Music] number three please [Music] world [Applause] [Music] it's very possible [Music] strength [Music] momentum the right [Applause] she won't be caught away [Music] [Applause] [Music] um on this one [Applause] actually remains in sixth place one top two zones two attacks at the top [Applause] in the next six minutes in the right direction [Applause] i think she feels she can get this and we'll put pressure on the marker if she can not just get the zone but get the top more importantly oh that was an awkward four but she's okay sometimes it takes to get past that one part of this wall [Music] right like first not that side now be careful she knows the rules today does this is no uh-oh [Applause] well and truly in this race the 2016 world champion [Applause] show me why she won the world crown three years ago so many of the athletes here that'll be too lost racing they've been proved right and then she goes [Music] who along with patrick will be going to the olympic games this year [Music] first place the women's body is here in [Music] switzerland [Music] headed into the final problem [Music] [Applause] japanese athletes and agreement the cheshire cat after she leaves the stage she has the lead and now only two athletes can take gold here at this enoch world beach had games great backing up from people in the crowd there i'm sure she'll appreciate it throughout this this is her last route we've seen some great footholds throughout this competition and a lot of dynamic moves and stream [Music] physical fighting style problem [Music] medium is athletes to follow here they are fighting out for the bronze [Music] allow the blood to medals back if your arms get a little bit too pumped can make it very difficult to try and move up that wall these climbs of course have mastered these moves you're always up for a very tricky challenge and i think that's what many groups matters said they were aiming to do to make it difficult tricky [Music] after two minutes [Music] [Music] [Music] degree angles [Music] past this point [Music] so [Music] those arms to start fresh [Music] gun indeed that was the case he felt appreciate the effort from the 23 year old german found the zone hold and goes into third place with one top three zones maybe potentially a chance let's bring on oscar reportage from slovenia oh [Applause] take away a medal because hong king lee and camilla moroni will not be able to catch the slovenian so [Music] on the podium beckons for the 19-year-old from rashi if she can find the top hole essentially a medal coming her way should we overhang [Music] [Music] in third place [Music] as you can see [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] left to go [Music] are you 19 years of age from this hotbed of sport climbing in recent years [Music] early part of this decade [Music] [Applause] climbing in general yanica is taking title off the title off the title [Applause] strong chance of the bronze medal depending on what hanging lee and cabela moroni do they need to find the top block if they're now to go above the 19 year old so three down three to go she'll be on next [Applause] number four [Music] so far none of our athletes have been able to finish goal default get to the top they're coming to be able to [Music] guarantees thee extra two minutes top is what she's looking for here and she'll go into third place from the potentially here these are some very tough groups for them each anthony has his first specific expertise strength maybe it's flexibility but it requires a lot of mental strength as well it's like the puzzle in a way if you can figure out your roots she'll stand back as you can see is [Music] energy back get the breath back as well before having another attack particularly difficult [Music] upside down relying on that one heel to keep you up with that one foot for the evening of those fingers there put incredible amounts of strength exercises but she's okay top is what she's aiming for [Music] that's a good question [Music] as you may have gathered as we move from boulder one straight line should go into third place in a minute to do so where you found the zone hold and seeing what the first three athletes have done i think that will be bread and butter in all fairness to me [Music] which is why she goes odds on favorites to take this title here that's all she needs the dice [Music] but not to the crowd and they appreciate the efforts of the 34 year old from thai fourth [Music] place [Music] so the only person they could go ahead [Applause] and she will take there she has these minutes to get past the zone four minutes and totals get to the top hold and that requires two hands on the top holes she'll get several attempts [Music] hello [Music] activation [Applause] when it down no zone will get fired in the semi final will she be able to do this for this final 30 seconds to find in sixth place 20 seconds left [Applause] is [Music] those two um she gets the extra two minutes and if she finds the top here she will guarantee third place [Music] [Music] [Music] we have still have two more [Applause] support there it's not getting her through that tricky boulder there so some very good [Music] come on [Applause] one top three zones two attempts at the top so then it goes down to the final two yeah but we're about 95 certain it's going to be on an arc of taking the [Applause] the top [Applause] three top four zones seven attempts at the top with two hands it's not just about getting into the klingon first of all i'm expecting klingon to do well here this one's all about upper body strength arm power and his 2016 world champion has that in abundance already on their first attempt and now it's difficult [Music] to find that zone but that would have taken a lot of energy out of the swiss athlete she managed to get past that soon minute 15 down some more just a reminder that she's a third generation climber and recently qualified to take part in the first round olympia see that first [Applause] through the zone [Music] [Applause] so far last move one hand past the feet to move the left hand on to the final volume it's not there yet he's not comfortable about this before making this move she needs to have control needs to have control she knows she was so close as well [Applause] looking to force my marker to find that in two minutes when she comes out in 60 seconds from now she's got a one last attempt here for flingler she's gonna be going away with the silver guaranteed but she wants to force the japanese athletes to win this on medic and not be gifted to here those first two attempts and now you can hear the whole crowd cheering her on now she needs to get the second hand on it actually needs that more importantly to have control she's angled away from the wall this is why it's so difficult for the 27 year old swiss athletes that is beautiful superb that's one of the climbs of the mountain petra klinger it's forced the marker to win this on metis [Applause] klinger is finished three tops four zones ten attempts to top that's regardless it's gonna go on the zones here [Music] [Applause] finds a zone in two minutes she is the champion she's the final athletes here that's all she needs to do she'll match clinton's score and she will get it on attempts to top you've got two minutes to find the zone incredible [Music] in style find in that zone she's going to be declared the winner [Music] three tops four zones her score will be completely matched just yet but i'm pretty sure that will be the case so a nice big short bag there sometimes it's worth spending an extra little time to look at that route so she makes her way up she's managed to give her out that starting point that he's starting two minutes to go indeed [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] she is the champion three-time world cup winner here at the world beach [Music] really well see well why don't i do this more often and here we are he's taking parts in the men's final competition there he's had a good result in the world cup now he's past the starting point you almost [Music] [Music] you would have noticed are wearing their short bag britain has given up from an incredibly young age [Music] is including myself strength [Applause] [Music] he's looking confident [Music] we'll be looking at lots of things [Music] and sometimes you [Laughter] [Music] is [Music] got one [Music] straight to hear the power [Applause] almost there oh my god [Applause] [Music] he's relying on putting his weight on that one of those legs [Music] [Applause] [Music] he still has time [Applause] this is back at the audience [Applause] [Music] at the moment a couple of our delegates here part of the ifsc team just helping out as well to tell these volunteers of where to go as well he's booked his place on the plane to tokyo the olympic combined competition next year in tokyo the crowd appreciate the efforts for the oldest competitor in this final america moab will head back to isolation from the zone in his first attempt and he currently lots of chalk on there you know the weather is also knocked out sometimes when it's a bit humid you can feel it muggy just outside tokyo maybe taking some time away from competitive climbing who's only taking part in one event this season that was out in munich and he came in 25th place a former world finalist that was 13 months ago out in innsbruck but he came just missing out on a medal in fourth place [Music] from the top 10 in the world he's his rankings down to 59. fight him off at your pedal this is an athlete who has quality and abundance he don't win world cups for nothing even though he's got one to his name they're not easy things to win [Music] the zone hold so he gets the extra two minutes [Music] just reminds me if you're just joining us this event it's been very much an experimental rule in bouldering in recent times we'll use it in a recent event out in japan [Applause] earlier this year but the athletes now have two minutes to the intention of that rule is to basically stop what kate is doing right now and i'm forcing athletes to get on with it yesterday he's managed to secure a spot in this fight did see that couple of times in the women's [Music] off the wall after two minutes the timer's up back to isolation they'll score but it's the second attempt there's one hand it's trying to reach there to put its feet on that blue volume but that would take a superhuman effort and he'd be putting all of his weight on that left foot that might be the way to go 90 seconds left to play forward on this first problem of four [Music] just restoring recharging his batteries for another attack on his first problem 60 seconds left to go maybe time for one more if he comes off the wall here but i feel he's going to put all his efforts into this third attempt [Music] 40 seconds left but what's happening now where can he plant this feet it's a balanced move this last move may need to put both feet on top of that blue volume to inch away forward he's gonna put one hand on the top he needs to put both on there and he must have control very important he can't just brush him with top with two hands we've got to have control that's the balance i'm talking about and now he needs to hold it he's coming away up the wall and goes so close [Applause] what a great performance fantastic performance it's a pair of efforts from the 26 year old from kawazakishi okay to watabe he takes the lead on virtue of the better semi-final performance all four athletes so far finding the zone on their first attacks number for some of you that five to understand the scoring board on that screen each column there in grey is for each form brushes have just done their job i was very impressed with this young man in this semi-final period only one or two athletes unknown quantity must be said [Applause] on the fsc circuit there's only one result to his name and that was a 17th place finish from fail earlier this season but his performance in the semi-final was nothing more than stella [Music] very impressed well this 23 year old from a reunion island in the indian ocean he's got the attributes and he's got the quality this is a superb effort from the 23 year old now he just needs to get the balance correct here that's what i mean but it seems to have already got the methodology [Music] see that first bit of effort has taken a lot out of him have a lie down by all means of diy and gardening himself not enough to volunteer to do it [Music] loads of time not even at halfway very few but we are there just over two minutes but there's always a solution to get to the top which requires a few attempts turn off there's a 41 in the world that's [Music] 23 year old in the indian ocean [Music] 90 seconds 95 seconds here from after his first attempt so you feel [Music] he's gonna be putting all of his efforts [Music] 60 seconds left i think all the efforts came in the first first attempt and arthur turner leaves the stage he now has the lead one zone one top one's only one attempt to do but we did it so one more i think left to go and that is the former world champion last but not least from japan [Music] yes [Music] [Applause] [Music] in the semi-finals he is a former world champion the only one with the six to top out and he flashes it as well fist pump from the 20 year old from yokohama he has the lead in this men's final to top out on boulder number one [Music] [Applause] [Music] they've got to chase [Music] a minute down already found the zone [Music] hold two minutes [Music] everybody's chasing the japanese [Music] this bit all about balance [Music] amazing phillips from breakthrough to returns for boulder number three [Music] did fold number one so we already had two minutes of observation earlier you can't waste any time most importantly first of all don't get to [Music] nails it fist pump from philips make sure you get that zone hold it now he's honest the two minutes extra is now granted fist pump from nathan phillips you're only halfway there so phillips being roared on by this crime now needs to do this final move take this time one hand on it and the second is academic nathan phillips put himself back in the race phillips did it in two attempts did the zone in two attempts so he'll go into second behind phillip martin on numbers of attempt to zone but more importantly he's on the top scoreboard indeed that is the case slot into second place moves harder down to third but of course ferrari is still yet to go out next [Music] is only expecting three athletes to complete this so far the first two have done hold first target is finding the zone give yourself an extra two minutes if you need it but he knows that the first two athletes have already topped out here and he doesn't want to be late to go up to that party that is for sure much is that the same as making phillips before him of this section of this problem now he's got his eye on the prize right hand is from the top there's the left hand because on his second attempt he will go into second place ahead of nathan phillips they both have the for three the next one after we'll be kicking the topic next up is it's harvey 30 seconds [Applause] [Music] [Music] watarbi to take the lead here should he flash this in one attempt and that's what he's inching his way slowly but surely off this ridge and a superb effort from the 26 year old from kawazaki and he will go from sixth into first place one top two zones by flashing that's one attempt four [Music] is number one 17th place we've seen some fantastic jumps as well particular problem it's got the frenchman in trouble already he's only eating 50 seconds [Music] he knows that he's only got two minutes to find the zone so he's gonna get on with it here now taking the wave that's before him he's gonna get it right he's not comfortable whatsoever for 35 seconds 15 seconds to find the zone here and the time is running out 10 seconds he knows he's got it playing tops he can start on the beep but if he comes off it's game over there there's the beat so he has to leave the stage no zone found no score for the 23 year old and maybe that could be his race run so lightly now it's a five horse race one athlete's fallen away next athlete out is the 2018 world championship [Applause] he wanted two athletes to complete all four problems he was in stella form center performer one in that world crown 13 months ago very much a mixed bag of results this season only made one final amazingly i think of his quality now that's interesting well the first four athletes have chopped down here and now this is giving kay haradas well deserved concentration got a minute to go he opened up with the lead but now this particular move has given him some guided attention 45 seconds just to find the zone here he's had three attempts already [Applause] made sure he got the zone so far he found the zone so he's putting up the two more minutes should he not do this next part of the route but he has good balance because this 20 year old from yokohama now got to finish it off and regain his lead and [Applause] even our route setter when i chat to him before playing he he even said this is difficult to understand and the roots are just saying that then how do you feel the athletes will take this one on this is the one that could cause separation in the field [Applause] you see there's not much room for error maybe philly martinez maybe crack the code here i've seen some very tricky overhangs on from the germans what a start from philippe martine on this third problem he takes the lead two chops three zones and he's gonna force harada to top out to regain his lead [Music] oh philly martin the 24 yard from calcutta what a performance again from great britain coming out he's going to flash this to match philippe [Music] just to keep himself in the race stay in the race you need to top out [Music] just an interesting fact times semi-finals this year from the world finalist as well [Music] horizontal to the floor [Music] [Music] this is good stuff from phillips [Music] [Applause] shifting his body weight to the right hand side of his body one arm on his second arm but it splashes as well [Applause] three attempts to find the top four attempts to find the zone just a zone separating end of this competition now that if you fail to talk [Music] this as well [Music] around [Music] just yet right foot just given away then the left foot is just on his tiptoes and not there for me so you only go into third place now who's also the first french climber to qualify for 2020 10 months [Applause] struggle with his feet and his great volumes there's the zone guaranteed so we can have the extra two minutes should we need it swinging away the momentum stays to the wall and the crowd appreciate that effort but can he continue and go deep into this route now trying to shift that body weight from the left-hand side to the right [Music] [Music] [Applause] pushing up [Applause] isolation and he will move into [Applause] second or third of the c on the scoreboard here i think you're moving to third two tops three zones i think you've done that in four attempts overall that will be the case but more importantly he's found two tops but still keeps him in the hands from he goes to first a look at that boulder wall just adjusting those climbing shoes comparison to make sure they fit nice and tight taffy already taking up 35 seconds of his time setting the route setting the [Applause] problems to be able to get something it's technique it's about defining has been exceptional he could be taking the lead here should he stop right here what is the conveyor belt of talent that is japanese climbing right now continues to show once more why they are the best in the world two top three zones two attempts to find them two tops two and three and he has the lead but only on attempts to separate the top four top [Music] to regain that lead he needs to find the top his own so good to him in fact he's had a number of attempts to get those first two tops so zone is not any good for him when he comes out about a few minutes from now to stay in the hunt for a medal needs to find the top as we've seen over here some very useless he already found the zone on his first attack so he's gonna get the extra two minutes so he's gonna use that time as best he can prepared himself good job ahead these clients will have to use very specialized climbing exactly two minutes together on some of these [Music] is 90 seconds to go he assesses as you can that's not gonna happen for the frenchman he was an exceptional form in the semi-final he really was here went out early in that semifinal blew the field away to qualify in second place and that's his race run the crowd politely back to turnout and appreciate the effort but he props up the leaderboard in sixth place and he cannot finish in the middle places after that third so we still have a five-way dance right now it's harvey martin phillips moan harada incredibly tight between the top four on two top three zones only two attempts to top separates the top four harada even though he tops out here is not confirmed on victory depending on this very spectacular four folder he's already had five attempts to find these two tops [Applause] so somebody can find a top ahead of him and he doesn't top out three top four zones all of a sudden is showing why he's a former world [Music] [Music] four [Music] first very fast i'm taking the roots of the courthouse before [Music] [Applause] a lot more than the four who are on two tops now if one of them can find a flash here it will force harada potentially to top out because a zone may not be good enough for him to win because of the amount of attempts he has already taken in finding history top so far so it's still game on this is not over by any stretch of the imagination got to do this in two three attempts to really put the pressure off they do top out and they take seven eight goes on this remember they gonna find the zone first of all and the two takes a number of attempts ferrara may only need a zone incredible dynamic he's only got 40 seconds to find this zone you can't waste any time 23 seconds to find the zone he's got to go one more he's got to go quick 17 seconds otherwise that's the end of his campaign 10 seconds gotta go this time got to get it at this time does he get it this time he doesn't five seconds he can have one more goal if he wants to get on the water he's on before the beat one last attempt that's the end of his campaign the end of his race really marty will finish two tops three zones in three attempts and he currently lies in third place our route setters are only expecting two to do this [Music] so marty finishes this final in third place nathan phillips is next and we'll bring in nathan phillips from great britain nathan phillips [Music] champion [Music] up 30 seconds of this time 45 seconds down phillips number two crowd right behind it triple dino two hands middle volume big common move phillips is already trying to figure out the beta here he hasn't got the time to do so he's found the third he's going to put the practice on the hook [Music] 40 seconds to go three attempts done 30 seconds right right behind the 25-year-old brett cheering on phillips he knows he's not far away but he's only got one more goal maybe there's two if he's quick gotta get on with it got to start moving down 15 seconds can he nail it there on this attempt last chance last aura five seconds he's already had five attempts this is his last hurrah in the last chance alone he needs a double six can he find it can he find it can he find it no harada dot is the second bullet [Applause] one zone attempt to separate in martine and phillips in third and fourth place respectively topi is next [Music] [Music] far away 30 seconds down needs to find the zone in two minutes away this too slow you won't have the momentum to get there a minute down 45 seconds to find the zone [Music] two more goes waiting in the wings here by the door i think he knows how difficult this final problem is last go for moen and he wasn't far off but harada dodges the third bullet he's got one more to dodge if whatever he doesn't do it doesn't find the top harvard will be champion with a boulder so here's the equation okay so what's happening you must find the top well it's gonna go to japan that is for sure question is is it harada or watarvi tabi's got to find the top [Applause] [Music] he's done this in the last couple of boulders takes the first 20 30 seconds to assess what needs to be done and then executes [Music] oh the other two minutes [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] three before him and fail this is the last bullet for kay harada to dodge he can be declared the winner here in 30 seconds from now [Applause] [Music] champion [Applause] over philly martin will take the bronze medal nathan phillips fourth place speak on the win fifth after tonight france can't affect the top five the last two climbers and i'm fighting for pride monrada will try and finish with the flourish and give the crowd something to shout about but the 20 year old from yokohamashi the 2018 world champion is now the 2019 world beach games gold medalist [Music] can he show us how it's done [Music] [Music] is [Music] [Music] is [Music] one minute down is [Music] whatever happens it's been a good experience for the 23 year old hopefully we'll see him in many many world cups and championships to come he was prepared in the semi-final he must be said he showed this raw talent that he has and maybe potentially could be a start of a sport in the future you may need to move away from the economy just designing out that one more shot at this but not there there's a six place finish for other turnoff and maybe we'll hope we've seen on the european tour for world cups in the future the sixth place finish here in doha so then he can climb with the knowledge that he's the champion here at the wall beach games can he show this crowd here in qatar that is japanese bouldering at the moment in men's and women's and climbing in general project 2020 to try and get gold medalists [Applause] in tokyo they have got plenty of bullets in their gun to find that gold medal target osaki is now a double ballroom champion [Applause] who has been the bridesmaid of sport climbing so many silver medalists down the years but she'll be there next year the talent is in abundance and continues to grow in the land of the rising sun on a high [Music] minutes ago well routers are expecting two to do this and it looks like they're going to draw the black all six athletes on this final problem unless harada can find something or maybe this last attempt for this young star [Music] [Applause] [Music] he finish with a florist no he can't but he is the champion here in doha okay three tops three zones he was one better than the rest in the end it was the first problem that separated this whole field okay japan is the gold medalist at these first enoch [Music] worlds you

Channel: Bouldering TV

Views: 20,362

Rating: 4.8449612 out of 5

Keywords: climbing, bouldering, boulder, competition, boulderingTV, hightlights, replay, recap, final, finals, rock, sport, climb, battl, 2019, mendaki, batu, 抱石, 攀登, クライミング, ボルダリング, bloc, escalade, क्लाइम्बिंग, Cup, comp, Olympic, games, live, stream, livestream, asian, скалолазание, боулдеринг, masters, broadcast, खेल, スポーツ, 運動, 岩石, boulderfest, ifsc, ANOC, World Beach Games, Qatar, Doha, Aspire Park, Miho, Nonaka, nonaka miho, kai harada, petra klingler, nathan phillips, mickael mawem, keita watabe, sport climbing, صخرة, التسلق

Id: RPZCsQJvivM

Length: 149min 57sec (8997 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 25 2021