Ammo Can Wood Burning Tent Stove. Make a Tent Heater for Winter Camping.

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[Music] [Music] [Music] hi folks and welcome back to another makeup video if you've been watching the channel for a while there's a good chance you'll have seen me use my mo Ken woodstove in videos I made out of a 50 caliber military ammunition cam and I get asked a lot of questions about it in the comments so I thought I would build another one and make a video and hopefully it'll answer some of your questions so here it is it's quite small but perfectly adequate for heating a small tent I use it in my polish army lalu tent and it is more than capable of heating that up when it's very cold so anything of a sort of similar size or even a bit bigger and it will be absolutely fine the stove sits on three lakes which fold up for transport and storage and the legs when folded out on ass plane a lot of people have asked why I chose to use three legs and isn't it unstable doesn't it topple over well no it doesn't it's very stable because of the angle that the legs are set at when it's folded out it gives it a really wide stance so makes it very stable this start is much wider than the stove body itself the legs on the original one were held in place with these cotter pins which I kind of regret using now they're a bit of a fiddle too to get them in and out of the holes so the new one I'm going to make is going to have an improvement on that which will make it a lot easier to fold the legs out and to close them away again on the front of the stove there's a simple hinged door with a latch and the door incorporates an adjustable air vent the stovepipe on the original stove was made using two inch stainless steel tubing and it was sectional so it comes apart and all stores inside the stove I'm also going to incorporate an adjustable damper to regulate the draw going up the stovepipe and therefore I should be able to shut it down and control the burn a bit better so I'll get get a longer burn between fills inside the stove down at the bottom is a great and that's just there to make sure that the fire gets enough airflow at the top of the stove just below the stovepipe is a battle to keep the fire in the firebox for a bit longer the fire has to work a bit harder to find its way out before it rushes up and out through the stovepipe right well that's the old stove let's get started on the new one things I'm going to need one so if you care about any listen care some scrap sheet metal three old tent poles car exhaust repair sections one car exhaust coupler repair section a piece of expanded steel grill this is a three inch but hinge a load of pop rivets and some nuts bolts and washers and to replace the cotter pins which are used in the old stove to hold the legs in place I'm going to be using these spring clips and finally you gonna need some paint to make it look nice and to protect the bare metal from rusting choose a high temperature paint or a stove paint something that is going to withstand the heat that that thing is going to produce the tools are going to be using a hammer a couple of old chisels and I stress old chisels you're going to be using them on metal so they don't want to be you know your very best finest woodworking chisels a craft knife and a pair of pliers needle nose pliers are best I'm also going to be using a pop Riveter because this is a no weld version I'm going to be bolting and pop riveting everything together power tools I've got a cordless drill which will be used for drilling holes and for cleaning up the metal I'll be using an angle grinder and various abrasive discs and wheels for cleaning up the metal and I'll be using a jigsaw with a hacksaw blade in it you could feasibly do all this with hand tools it'll obviously just take a lot longer and it'll be harder work you know cutting metal is hard work but you know where I'm using jig saws with metal cutting blades you could use a coping saw with a metal cutting blade or hacksaw you know where I'm using a drill you could you could drill by hand but yeah it's just obviously gonna take more time and effort this handled that's got to go and inside the lid is a rubber gasket which was originally used to keep the ammunition that was stored in this dry that's got to come out because obviously rubber melts and then I need to clean up and get all the paint off it I'm not worried about the inside because that will all burn off on its first burn to remove this rubber gasket which runs around the inside of the lid here I find the best thing to use as a craft knife and if you go into the corner you can cut through the rubber and then using a pair of pliers and you can grip it by digging underneath grab it and then you should just build and pull it up and away to clean up the ammo stove and get all this paint and any stickers and stuff that might be on there I'm gonna use a range of different abrasive wheels that fit in a drill so I've got this kind here just has basically like a wire brush I find these are really good they're designed to work in an angle grinder it's called a knot wheel and it's a much stiffer gauge of wire and they're twisted around so you've got a whole load of kind of like twisted bits and they tend not to bend over and they're much more abrasive obviously you're going to be using them in an angle grinder you know these things are dangerous tools if not used carefully they spin much faster and you do have to be very careful always wear eye protection when you're doing this because these little pieces of metal here do tend to come up come away and come off and obviously especially in an angle grinder they're going to come off a speed [Music] [Music] aside where the hinges there's going to be a large hole this is going to be your main feed hole for putting wood into the into the wood stove and they'll have a door on it I want to deal with that one first I found that the lid offer Trangia kettle is about right if you've got a ten-centimeter zebra Billy can you know you could draw around there yeah just measure it find something that works [Applause] [Music] the next home is going to go at the back of the stove on the top and that's going to be for the stove pipe that's going to be on what was originally the front of the mo care where the latch is the opposite end to your feed hole I'm going to be using one of these for the sort of stovepipe spigots this is an exhaust repair section you can buy these and they come in two parts with a couple of bolts and springs and these are designed as a weld on replacement connector for exhaust pipe sections it comes in two parts one part is a sort of pressed shape which doesn't look very neat and it's got an awkward sort of flange here I did originally plan on using this section because it's lighter but when it arrived and having looked at the shape of it I've decided not to use that bit but to use this section instead which is heavier because it's got this big bit of plate steel welded on and this thing which was originally like a guest a guest tight seal for weather to joined together where you don't need that all you're going to need is this part and that will go on the back of the stove just here sticking up so you've got somewhere to mount your run your stovepipe [Music] the next thing I'm going to do is to make up these brackets which hold the legs that they fold within there's three of them one of them is straight the front one here it's square the ones at the back are splayed [Music] [Applause] [Music] is gonna be my brackets these two displayed rear ones which is why they're a slightly different length these measure 65 millimeters by a hundred and ten millimeters and the front one doesn't need to be as wide because it's not on the angle that's a hundred millimeters by 65 I'm also just going to cut the corners off these now while this is still flat it's a lot harder to do once it's folded and this measures 10 millimeters along here by 30 millimeters along here just take that corner off for a formal use on this piece of MDF here this is 18 millimeters thick and the legs I'm using a 16 millimeters thick so that will leave space for a washer between the legs and the bracket of you so I mean just for a little 1 mil washer and that should work out well [Music] the rear leg support brackets are slightly more complicated because their splayed so the center line here is actually off-center if you measure from one side 50 millimeters in I take that as your center line and then go 9 Millie the side to give you your 18 mil space or whatever the thickness of your legs is and also these are handed so the left hand side one needs to be the mirror image of the right hand side one not the same as that makes sense I'm going to use the same piece of MDF as my former for the rear legs the only difference is that along one edge here I've cut that at a 15 degree angle and that bracket will fix onto the back of the stove here creating this blade for the rear legs for the holes on the brackets I've taken a couple of measurements and marked out the position of my holes this line here that runs down here that is a center line for the hole that's going to act as the hinge if you like so there'll be a bolt going through this hole and that will hold the leg in place and allow it to hinge and that hole there is 19 millimeters from this for a edge and 14 millimeters from this edge here this second line here that 7 millimeters over from the original and that's going to be a center line for the pin which holds the leg in position so it's going to have a pin that locks it in position either open or closed so there'll be a hole there for the little spring pin to come through the distance from the center of the bolt to the center of the pin hole is 20 millimeters and you've got to make sure it's really important that that is 20 millimeters from there to there and from there to there otherwise your pin won't locate in the holes once you've got a really marks and you're happy with it it's a good idea to use a center punch just to make a dent where your hole is going to go it stops the drill bit from skipping around on the surface of the metal you know just make sure it bites in the right place I'm going to use my drill press to drill these holes I know I didn't mention it at the beginning when I was talking about tools but I have this in my workshop so it's gonna make life a little bit easier but you can do this with a hand drill you know or a cordless drill nope no problem [Music] for the legs I'm going to be recycling these old tent poles here they're quite a thin gauge about 16 millimeters in diameter so they should be ideal and I need to cut those down to 250 millimeters in length [Music] next on the agenda is to make the door there are quite a few components to this there's the door itself there's a hinge there's the adjustable air vent there's the latch and then there's a strike plate for the latch as well so that it fastens in position so for the door I've measured a rectangle that measures one hundred and thirty millimeters along here by 115 along here and that's the right size just to fit in this section here below that welded on hinge but I want the latch time the door to be curved by this I just think it looks nicer I'm just going to draw around the insert from my 12 centimeter zebra Billy tin just happens to be exactly the right size and that will give me the curve I need so the vent I'm just going to draw around the coffee can to give me the size I want it's about just over 70 millimeters 72 millimeters or something I also need to have a little low sticking out which I'm going to bend up to give me a handle that I can turn the thing with [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Laughter] [Music] [Music] [Music] the next thing I'm going to make is the damper it's going to fit inside this part here which is the bit that comes out from the top of the stove and it's literally just the disc with a rod which goes through it which is attached and the disc can open and close so you can adjust the draw up the of the stovepipe by closing it that way and reducing the amount of draw or opening right up to increase the draw this is a bricklayers brick ty it's stainless steel and it's perfect for this this is going to kind of become the key to operate that little damper a little butterfly now this is ideal for several reasons firstly it's got already a little handle kind of formed at one end but it's also got this little zigzag bit here and I'm going to make use of that I'm actually going to bend those a little bit more to accentuate them and they are going to hold that butterfly in place so when they're a bit more of a zigzag if you saw I mean they're gonna press against this butterfly so when you turn the key it turns the damper inside the stovepipe [Music] so that's working well but the only problem is it doesn't want to stay in the open position because obviously there's weight on the handle and it just wants to close general where you put it so to stop that happening I'm going to put a spring on this side here held in place with one of those retaining star washers and that should just put some pressure it gets the side of that and just hold it in whatever position you put on through the strength of the spring put a washer on first in the spring another washer in a smaller washer this is that retaining washer it's got a sort of slot cut into it and as you push it on those those kind of corners grit on the rod on the bit brick type and stop it coming back off again so hold it tight when I put the first section of stovepipe on I just have to make sure I pull that washer out so the slot on the stovepipe can slide down and then that will hold it all in place [Music] [Laughter] [Music] there are just two more components to make one of them is just a rectangle of steel to act as that as that baffle just there and the other thing I need to do is cut a bit of this grid here to go in the bottom of the stove this is an expanded steel mesh it's just the job for this really it allows plenty of airflow but keeps the wood as it's burning up off the bottom of the stove [Music] [Music] okay that's all the components ready to assemble we've got the main body of the stove here with the holes for the door and for the stovepipe or cleaned up we've got the first section of flue with the little damper in there we've got door components so that's the door itself and the hinge we've got the rotating air vent we've got a latch and a catch we've got the bits that go inside so that's the baffle plate and the grille for the bottom we've got the legs and the leg brackets and then we've got three pipe sections here which are 250 millimeter long exhaust repair sections so finally it's time to put it all together [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] right that is as far as I'm going to assemble it until I've painted it I'm not going to put these two parts on until it's been painted otherwise when you turn the vent you're going to see there that's a metal whether painters mist because that's been on there likewise with the latch so I'm going to paint those both sides paint everything with high-temperature paints I'm not going to paint the inside there's no need that's why I didn't even bother to take the original paint off that it'll just burn off in its first use on the damper assembly here I'm not going to paint that I'll mask all this off so I don't cover it in overspray and I'll just paint up to just above that weld [Music] [Music] [Music] till I make something better I'm just going to use a bit of this gauze here from an old tea strainer as a spark arrestor I'm literally just going to poke my above the damper there to the dead will still work and that will catch any sparks that try and fly up the flue [Music] well I am really pleased with how this is turned out there are some definite improvements on the last one the legs are just much easier to use now those cotter pins were always a bit of a pain they became harder and harder over time to locate into the into the holes and the lakes this damper here is going to be really good at regulating the burn rate so I'm looking forward to seeing how that works yeah all good so hopefully they still answer some questions I get a lot of questions about the stove the original one that I made whenever I release this video with it in you know people want to know about it understandably so when hopefully you know this will answer some questions and maybe you could have a go at making one yourself you really don't need a lot of specialists to to make this stove you know I used the tools I had because I had them but you could make it using hand tools it would just you know just take a bit longer really but you could certainly do it cost wise I'd say it's cost somewhere between fifty and sixty pounds to make this stove the way I've done it you could save money by welding if you know anybody that welds or you weld yourself you could weld up the little spigot that comes off the top of the stove that the stove pipe goes into and you could probably weld up the stove pipe yourself as well that would save certainly a bit of money because they were the most expensive parts the ammo can itself isn't expensive I paid 12 pounds for mine and you can usually pick them up between sort of ten and fifteen pounds depending on where you get them from recycling materials and using scrap metal to make the components for your stove is going to keep the cost down to you know I use those temples which were from a tent that was no longer serviceable and I had some bits of scrap steel to make the door and all the other bits and pieces so yeah if you've got anything lying around use that right well I'm going to go outside and fire this thing up give it its first burn and I will use that as the closing shots of the video thanks for watching I'll see you soon [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] you [Music]
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Channel: Simon, a bloke in the woods
Views: 255,488
Rating: 4.9574003 out of 5
Keywords: wood stove, tent stove, tent heater, diy tent stove, diy tent heater, diy wood stove, diy wood burner, homemade tent stove, homemade tent heater, homemade wood stove, homemade wood burner, hot tenting, winter camping, ammo can stove, ammo tin stove, 50 cal ammo can, ammunition can stove, ammo can tent heater
Id: tpadCWty9PM
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 31min 59sec (1919 seconds)
Published: Thu Jan 16 2020
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