5.3 Engine Assembled with DOD Delete and Bigger Cam (Suburban Engine)

what is up guys welcome back to the channel my name is Travis of course this is TWA Motorsports and today we are starting the reassembly of the 5-3 the replacement motor for the Suburban that we've got guys I want to get this thing together before we actually get that out I don't know exactly how I'm gonna pull that out if I can't get the motor to get loose and when I say loose I mean I've got to get that broken Rod either out or I'm gonna have to pull the transmission and converter apart that screw stuff up I don't want to do that but either way before we do that we got to get this thing assembled so I'm picking up right where I left off in the last video on this thing guys we took the engine down in the first video right we took all the parts off of it all the stuff that you see um around the 55 here spread out on the ground we took all that stuff off in the next video we cleaned everything up right so we cleaned all the bolt holes we cleaned the Pistons the top of the Pistons we cleaned a little bit on the Block but honestly guys this isn't a show car you could spend a little more time cleaning on the Block this has been in some red clay at some point and that is incredibly incredibly hard to get off but uh in this video guys we are going to start like I said the reassembly process I've got all the parts either here or in route it'll all be in this video uh I believe so we're gonna start on the back because we really want it on the engine stand well guys we can't put a rear main on with it in the engines or on the engine stand right because it's in the way and this block we don't have the ability to like mount it backwards to do this so we're gonna have to have either my son come out here and try to balance some of this or I'm gonna just have to wing it but one of the cool things I got now guys is I got a new tool for it's for aligning the rear main now a lot of people buy a loaded rear main and when I say loaded rear main it comes with not only the gasket but it comes with a new metal cover here and the seal is already in it I am not going to go that route I have before but this route I'm going to knock the new one in okay so you can see our new one here and it has the alignment piece in it do not push that out I'm going to show you the process of doing that now um before we do that this guy is to represent an oil pan right so what you're going to bolt to the bottom like this and then we have this guy that centers this once we get that in place now um when we do that this acts as the oil pan to line up the bottom and this acts as a centering guide and you'll see how much Movement we have so what I'm going to do is I'm going to grab my bolts I'm going to get those I'm going to get the new gasket and we're going to set this Loosely in place this does come with screws by the way to put into place we're going to get this all lined up and we'll cut back in and show you what's going on remember how I said I was kind of excited about this tool there's no holes to line this up none the rear cover bolts line up but look there's nothing to grab the closest bolt hole is this one so I have nothing to thread into um I guess I could yeah see that won't work either how dumb okay well uh look I hope the other alignment piece works so at this point what I'm gonna have to do is I'm gonna have to align it um I'll just have to put that up against it when we get it into place but I'm still going to go ahead and grab the cover the bolts and the gasket and set it on there as far as the gasket I'm using a GM gasket I'll list it in the description down below it only lines up one way guys you can't put it on backwards nothing makes sense if you do it like that and I like to use my bolts threaded up from the bottom to kind of help line this up so what will happen is they'll kind of start to thread into the the the rubber of the gasket and so we're going to go through and line all those up get them started and then we'll set it up in place with that new that new tool that's going to help center this so before we do anything right we just got it in there look how much movement this thing has up and down and back and forth it's got a lot so here's what we need to do we need to grab this tool and we're going to put it on here to line this up I'm hoping we can get it out of there all right so once we've got that portion lined up you still have movement see and now our movement is based on the oil pan so what I'm planning on doing here is we're going to get it lined up with the oil pan here making sure that we're Square and we are I'm using the same tool I don't know if you guys can see that far down here but I'm using that same tool to use as an alignment for this and that looks pretty square right there so now we know we're Square on the bottom we're Square in the middle we can go ahead and snug this thing down so what I'm going to do making sure that we're Square like it moved a little all right I'd really be nice if that would stay on there but we're going to start up here snug that one down go down the corner get down here here we're going to kind of alternate [Applause] make sure it's still square and it is all right now what we need to do is go ahead and torque these down and I think they go to 18. I'm gonna double check that [Applause] I was able to get it out of there um like I said I'm alternating 18 foot pounds is all it takes now that we have it torqued down to 18. I need to grab our new seal and guys there is a certain way this goes in there's instructions if you buy a GM one it tells you which way it goes in so you can see here the instructions are saying hey look it goes with this facing out right so notice the installation direction of the oil seal the new design seal is a reverse lip style as opposed to what was used in the past this side out has been marked on the seal and shown the graphic so it actually says this side out so this is the side that goes in this is the side that goes out I'm trying to see where it says it holy cow if it says it it's really really small maybe it says it right here yeah this side out it does say it but man it's it's in like really really small writing um there's nothing on this on this guy itself it's written on this um like outer ring where it says this side out so we need to press this in so how are we going to do that right for one this kind of lines things up probably that does not look Square to me it looks a little off to me to be honest with you is a close close fit yeah it's square with the this is square as it can be so maybe it's just an optical illusion but we'll get this back out of here and we'll press this in the other side of this is used for pressing this you see it's just a hair bigger that's what it's for you turn this over and use a rubber mallet to hammer that guy home so once I get it kind of lined up with the side out that says it's a side out we've got it written right here this side out I need a rubber mallet which I had and we're gonna knock this guy into place with the rubber mallet line it up and try to go as Square as possible you can see we got [Applause] I think we've got it in there a little bit more on the bottom here make sure we got a nice flush fit and it looks like we do and the gaps look pretty good guys I don't I don't see it getting any better than that I'm gonna go around it one more time to make sure [Applause] and we are set so we got the new rear main new seal everything torqued down so I'm just inspecting this of my light to make sure it's nice and flush and it is um guys look okay so what do I think of the tool well the tools obviously it sucks down here although it did help to line stuff up I didn't have to grab the oil pan but um I don't love the fact that we had to like kind of pry it out I mean it's tough to get out of there and I don't really want to put any grease on it because this is not a seal that you use grease on so you can see I did bang the end of it up a little bit by tapping on it um and trying to get an area where I could pry but as far as for installing the seal it looks like it did a relatively good job so I mean look they're cheap I'll list it in the description I got it off Amazon um maybe it gets better as you use it you know maybe it wears some but like I said I just wanted to inspect and make sure that I got it seated all the way and I do so now we can move on I'm going to go ahead and put the flywheel on this thing now as far as the flywheel going on it is it does have an alignment spot you'll notice that seventh hole there so we need to get these started but if you're wondering like which way faces out it generally says on here this side outer this side motor end um but if not guys a Telltale sign if you're reusing the old one is look you can see where the head bolted down and the other side is completely worn so you'll know for sure that this is the correct way it goes in and like I said make sure you line this up we're going to go ahead and get this in place I'm gonna have to grab my flywheel locking tool in order to torque these um and it's probably not a bad idea to put a little Loctite on these which I'm just getting it started I'm going to put Loctite on these as I go together and then we'll talk about the torque specs I did take these over to my um wheel on my grinder my little um I guess it's a brush and I brushed off all the old stuff so now I'm putting a little blue Loctite on them and look they go to 15 first so that's where I'm going to start I'm going to go ahead and go to 15 foot pounds and I think I can do that without having the flywheel tool on and then once we get to that then I'll have to put it on because it's gonna definitely want to spin I don't even know that I can do it on with the engine kind of hanging like this I may have to get it mounted to the stand and see if I can like turn it over and do it another thing you may notice is I'm going to alternate so top bottom left right get that to 15. there's not much head on these so see it's already turning over even at just 15. after you do the 15 I've got I've got Cohen holding the motor I've got the flywheel locking tool in place we're gonna go 37 alternating and then 74. so it's going to take a lot I'm having him hold the motor because it's going to want to swing that torque down everything's in place I'm going to go ahead and take this I mean we can take actually I'll take that off off camera um those are 17 millimeters on my on my plywood locking tool but at this point I can go ahead and put it back on the stand and we can continue now that we're on a stand we got to I'm going to pull this out I did this so we could uh you know kind of see or keep junk out of this you know why it was setting but we've got a new timing chain and to go with the new timing chain we also have a new oil pump guys um look I don't have the cam here yet what I can do however is put the chain on um and just kind of you know wrap it around here for now but the oil pump I chose to go with is an aftermarket pump Okay so we've got a melling um 10 296 which I'll list in the description down below now here's what is interesting about this um of course it's a direct um plug and play but it also comes with a couple different things it's saying that if you want to um change the pressure relief spring it comes with an extra I'm not going to do that attention do the nature anodizing okay this causes you to die uh it's more advertisement got some sick stickers talking about the relief o-ring all right so here we got a couple O-rings to go on here now let's read what this says because I believe so we've got a black and a green it says the oil pump uses two different O-rings depending on the design of the pickup tube uh that it installs to the pump if the pump looks like if the tube looks like either of these designs figure one all right and figure one so if it looks like either one of those you're going to use the red one or the oh oh wait or the oeoe ring was red then use the melon green it o-ring if the O-ring was blue use the black so there you go we're using the green because the old one was red I vividly remember it being red and it's a big old fat guy um that went on there so we got that in place I clean that off now what we need to do is I'm gonna have to take this out of here but we're going to line this up but then guys we're going to go back and torque this a little bit differently and we'll talk about that later but let me get the 24 millimeter to get this guy out um and then we'll see if we can get this lined up and then we obviously got to put our pickup tube line up in as well now we got that out of the way got the timing chain in here here's what we're gonna do we're going to see if we can get this sucker lined up foreign and we need to swing it over and get our pickup tube lined up may have to loosen the way back in there there we go see I may have to loosen this up a little because our pickup tube acts like it doesn't want to go in so I'm going to loosen that on the pan give me a little more play it just may be snug but right now it's not getting up in the cavity needs to go for us to get our 10 millimeter up in the bottom but another thing I'm going to do is I'm going to Loosely fit our 10 millimeters and we're not we're not doing anything here yet we're just getting these in to kind of keep things in place and then like I said I'm going to loosen up that pickup tube a little bit because it it needs to move up some well guys you can tell I normally put in or put together third gen Motors so what I told you is incorrect and when I say incorrect the reason why is we need to put we're going to have to put the cam in first so I'm gonna have to wait for it to get here because we have to put the timing chain tensioner in before the oil pump goes into place I was sitting here look at this like oh man there's no way I'll be able to tighten that up and get that into place so we're going to pull this back off and then uh when I get the actual timing chain tension you're supposed to be here the next day or two it's still going to be in this video but then we will attack putting this on we're going to go ahead and get our camshaft in place our timing chain tensioner everything buttoned up on the front there is one other thing I'm waiting on but we can continue our progress but either way guys I got the cam and I got the timing chain tensioner in uh let's let's look at what we've got here as far as cams go look we're doing a DOD delete so we needed a different cam I didn't just want to use the off the shelf um Regular old DOD delete camshaft it's not any bigger I wanted to go with something a little bigger but not so big that it was lopy or needed a converter or anything so here's what we got we got a 325 325 duration and then a 552 552 lift and this is on a 115 LSA so lobe separation it's not going to be lopy it's not going to be crazy but it is quite a bit bigger like the factory I want to say is in the 290 range on the lift or on the duration and like in the 400s on the lift now this will require a different set of valve springs which I did have LS3 valve springs installed when I had these heads reworked so that is enough to run this I didn't want anything like crazy I don't want dual valve springs this is going to be a daily driver but I also wanted to gain a little bit while we were doing this if that makes sense so we're going to get the cam cleaned up guys I generally like to go over it a couple times they clean it before they ship it but you're gonna need to clean it again sometimes there's little pieces of metal and whatnot on it and then we're going to get some assembly Lube on it and get it slid into place now we've got the cam cleaned off we're going to use some assembly Lube here and we're going to be pretty generous with the amount that we use so you're going to see I may have to go get another bottle actually or order another one we want to get this good and coated and we're going to start it and I've got guys I've got a couple of the water pump bolts in the end of this right and the reason we do that is it gives you something to hold on to as we go and I'm putting it on the lobes too so we got it obviously on the cam where the cam journals are the cam bearings but then I'm putting it on the lobes this part's kind of messy just be careful that you don't Nick up the cam bearings as you're going in I'm just going to go ahead and do the rest of it here I don't know if the camera is in line where you can see the end yet but we've got oh got these water pump bolts in and like I said that kind of just helps us get that last little bit there we go so now once you get that accomplished clean your hands off because they're going to be nasty and we can go ahead and thread our bolts out that we had and we can grab our cam plate that closes this out cam retainer plate I'm gonna grab it next I am one more time gonna go over this just to make sure that it's all clean remember I scraped it well let's grab that camera tuner and I ordered new bolts as well now remember we're switching to a three bolt cam but this would be the same part even if you weren't but it's either recessed piece this is the new version and if you buy them with buy them new from GM they come with the Loctite already on them I know some people reuse them you can if you want but guys these are it's really common for these to strip and not want to come out so we'll get all four of these in here and then we will get it torqued down so these guys go to 11 foot pounds and here's what I like to do I like to run them down by hand with our t40 it's not a plus I know I said Plus in the first video it's actually not um controversy about that a t40 is just a little loose that's why a lot of people strip these but a t40 plus is too big so I'm gonna get these ran down by hand but then 11 foot pounds is what these torque to and you don't if you're buying new bolts like I said you don't have to worry about putting thread Locker on them it comes with it but here's what you don't want to do if you over tighten it you will snap this plate so I like to cinch them down by hand so it can move and get in those countersunk holes if you do it that way then you don't have to worry about it snapping on you when you're torquing it kind of self-aligns that makes sense if you snap this cam plate guys make sure you're looking for cracks in the corners because if you snap it you have to replace it you won't have any oil pressure or you may but down the road you're going to have issues and I torque these just like I do a wheel so we're going to alternate here here here here let's get that accomplished like I said not a lot we'll go over them a couple times but you don't want to snap it an ARP does make a bolt for this but I think theirs is the old hex head and guys you can no longer get the hex head plate you're only going to be able to get the countersunk plate at this point for the next part you'll notice I have my bolt back in where the harmonic balancer goes and guys there is a little you can't really see it but there is a DOT to line up our timing marks this dot needs to point at the middle of this opening right here we need to align our timing marks kind of as we're going together with this next piece um I'm going to see if I can go ahead and put my timing chain tensioner On Loosely setting here um because we obviously got a new one so I'm going to Loosely fit this in place wow that is going to be a tight fit tell you what I'm going to go ahead and see if we can do that because what I'm afraid is going to happen I don't know we may be able to get it in afterwards we may just test it here I don't remember like I said I'm used to assembling third gen Motors I guess it doesn't go on the outside of that I'm not really sure why I was doing that but so we got that in I'd really like to put some Loctite on that but that's a factory one and it came with new bolts I don't necessarily know that we have to so you can see here we've got our timing chain kind of in place where it needs to go but we're gonna have to line up the cam bolts um this little centering dial helps you line things up but let me grab the cam gear and we'll talk about how we're going to put that in next now as far as the cam gear goes guys it only goes in one way okay and if you don't put it in the right way you're going to have issues but at the same time you have to have a special timing gear when we're doing a DOD delete and I'll list this in the description down below these guys right here these timing marks that is what they pick up on the front cover is picking up as this goes around because obviously um it's used to picking it up elsewhere like in the back well I guess actually on these motors it's used to picking it up in the front but our old one is a single bolt we needed the three bolt so in order to get this started we're going to put it up into place trying to line it up with that opening right that's going to be a tough alignment of that chain I think we may no we're not going to be able to I was going to say we may and this will have a timing mark on it as well at the very bottom and that needs to get to the point I'm going to go ahead and move it to the bottom because we're going to have to align the chain these two pieces so this top sprocket that we had pointing up and this opening right here this Mark right here they have to face each other and they have to be dead on now I'm not going to go into the degreeing of Cam and all of that stuff guys there's other videos out there that are better at that than me I just line up dot to Dot and I've never had any problems so we're gonna see if we can get this chain started on here I have a feeling I'm gonna have to take that off it's gonna be a fight I have a feeling to get this started we may have to rotate yeah this needs to go over one tooth so we'll try and get it this is a fight for a while generally what I have to do is you have to take these bolts out and kind of put the chain on as you're going on this so you may have to take this on or off a couple times in order to make this happen and get this stuff lined up because the tension on this thing is uh it's good enough where if you don't have this loose I just put these in to move it these are the stock bolts by the way we're going to put Loctite on those but if you don't have it apart to move it you'll there's no way you'll be able to have enough tension to move the chain if that makes sense so I've got these snug down I don't have any Loctite I'm going to pull them out one at a time and put Loctite on them these guys are going to go down to 26 foot-pounds but I wanted to show you this timing mark you see this cutaway right here and you see this dot on the top those guys need to face each other if they don't you're going to be out of time and like I said you can get into the green of camshafts and whatnot but we I always install dots dot is what they call it and so what I like to do is put this down now um I like to put my have my 24 millimeter in here and this guy will go 180 degrees right until the bottom dot is lined up again okay so now you can see it's a little off but the bottom dot is lined up this one's at the top that's good then we come back around I like to cycle this a couple times making sure that when these things intersect those dots are still lined up and they are so now we can go ahead I'm going to go ahead and torque my camshaft and I don't know what the torque specs are in these I'm going to grab those real quick as well but I'm going to put some Loctite on these guys you do not want these backing out now I'm going to back these out with the impact one at a time I don't want to take it completely off right and I didn't want to put the Loctite on before we were lined up because I didn't know how long it'd take me but I'm really going to soak these down with some blue Loctite you know some people use red here you don't necessarily have to um I've never had an issue with blue but I do want Loctite on these and these are Factory bolts I just cleaned them up now you're probably wondering like where'd you well I just have Factory bolts laying around uh ARP does make a bolt here if you want to do that option I just don't necessarily think you need that in a daily driver I don't know look if you can buy ARP bolts by all means buy them but I just cleaned up some Factory ones on my wire wheels so let's get these torqued down to 26 foot pounds and you should be able to do this without having to chalk the motor like it shouldn't spin spin at that lower torque setting I'd probably overdo it guys all right now I got to find the cams or the torque specs on these I may put a little Loctite on those as well went ahead and put a little Loctite on this and we're going to torque these down to 18 foot pounds it's not very much actually may have to put an extension on this or a shorter I'm gonna get a shorter one I just don't like rubbing against anything when I'm twerking stuff even though you don't get a great torque spec with that um 18 foot pounds I got that once we get that guys we can pull this keeper out and uh we're snug so on to the next part um I don't have the next piece in the front so we're going to move on to putting the heads on but before we put the heads on guys we obviously got to put lifters in so we're gonna pull our towels out and the lifter I chose to go with is a melon guys it's a um JB 2079 had a friend that's had really good luck with them I didn't see the need in putting like an LS7 lifter in there and honestly guys it's kind of a mixed bag what you get when you order those but I have had these soaking for a little bit and oil and so um I'm going to pull these out but I also got new GM lifter trays always a good idea these things are plastic so it's very easy to crack them and so you want to make sure that you're getting them put in the right way see this is backwards you would want them to go in this way but before we do that we're going to have to load the lifters in them and guys look I there's a thousand people saying different things out there as far as which way is a lifter have to go in if it has a hole in it does it have to face a certain way it does not all that needs to happen is it needs to fit in the tray with the flat ends facing the flat ends so it makes sense it rolls against the cam this way um I don't know how else to describe it you don't also have to have these sitting in oil just something I've always done but we're going to get these loaded up in the tray and then we're going to put the tray in and I am using the factory tray retainer so there's obviously a bolt that holds this thing in and this is going to be messy guys there's no doubt about it I've got you can see I've got a couple extra towels here but we are going to get that in there it should kind of I may have to wiggle it back and forth a little bit there we go there we are all right now we need to put the bolt into place now here's another thing I like to use a little thread Locker on it as well so I'm going to go ahead and put some thread Locker on my bolt my factory Bolt and I thought I had my thread Locker over here just a little blue Loctite on it and we're going to get it started in place now if you'll notice these things kind of have a stop on them that recesses it in this little cavity I don't know if you guys can see that little recessed part make sure you're using the right bolts so I'm going to go ahead and do all the rest of these and then I'll come back we'll talk about torque specs I'll torque them all at once once you get these in 106 inch pounds that is not much and there's some controversy on whether you need a Loctite on them guys I just I I put a little bit of blue on 106 and we'll move on to the Head now now before putting the head on we're gonna go over this entire area again just making sure that we don't have any crazy stuff that's set on here you know it's been a couple days since I cleaned it got that oil that dripped down from the lifters I don't want that in there so I'll probably go over this a couple times off camera guys I just want to make sure that we've got a good clean seating surface for that head to set on um it's very important the other important thing is we need our head dowels so these little guys fit in the corners and I'll probably have to get my rubber mallets and knock them in but we need to get those in each Corner before we grab the head gasket and uh the head once we've cleaned it a couple times got our head dowels in we've got our head gasket now guys I chose to go with a stock gasket has a front and obviously it only goes one way they're the same on both sides but we need to get that lined up and this is just the stock MLS head gasket I didn't see you know we're never going to have Boost or anything on this a lot of times you'll see me use um ls9 head gaskets but for this guys I just I didn't see the point so these are a little cheaper so I bought just the stock replacement so now that we got that on there let's grab the head and I did do a little bit different as far as um head bolts which you'll see in a second but I'm going to grab one of the heads and put them on one of the things you need to consider before you put the head on which I'm going to wipe the surface off but see how this is plugged there's a factory plug in the back this needs to stay in the back otherwise you're going to have to drill it out and do the other so make sure that the head that came off the same side goes back on the same side otherwise you're gonna have to rethread this knock that out and take everything back apart so be careful on that clean this off a couple times let's get it set on there lining up those dowels and there we are make like I said make sure that your coolant crossover is in the right spot the open one in the front so for head bolts guys I did Splurge a little bit and I went with ARP and here's why these are bolts not studs I went with these because guys a lot of times look lifters fail and I didn't want to have to if something happened down the road and I had to pull the head off for some reason um I didn't I wanted reusable bolts and to be honest with you I like ones that are Torx 2 setting as opposed to ones that are like torque to yield like the stock GM bolts so what it says to do here of course I'll list these in the description but it says I don't know if you guys can tell there's like a serrated almost rough side and there's a smooth side the serrated side is going to go towards the head and we're going to put that guy on there like that now another thing we're going to do is we're going to put a little bit of the assembly Lube that comes with it we're gonna put that on the washer it says to put it on the head of the bolt but honestly guys it it's gonna all it's saying is it doesn't want any friction and this is a messy messy job that's for sure you can tell it's hot out in my shop this stuff's like water but once we do that we'll put that there and then it also says to put a little bit on the threads I don't get real crazy on the threads I'm gonna have to get another towel but then we need to drop these into place and it really doesn't matter which one goes where because on an LS on the Gen 4 blocks all the bolts are the same size you know on your older blocks like your gen 3 blocks you're going to have um variances like the corner ones at the top are shorter but on these they're all the same size and this is where like cleaning out your bolt holes like we did in the prior video is really important we want to make sure that we have really good um I guess I'll put it on the head here um we want to make sure that it's the threads are cleaned out and we're not having any issues and the main reason you put assembly Lube on the head here is for friction reasons like I said to keep um making sure the torque setting is correct now this like I said guys this is uh you don't have to do this it's not these are relatively cheap uh I think they're maybe 50 more dollars than a set of stock GM bolts to me that's worth it I'm gonna get all these in and then we'll torque we'll talk about torque this is going to take me a little bit to get accomplished here's what we got I went ahead and finished putting the rest of the bolts in got them snug I also put the did the same method on the top the five little guys those are 10 millimeters these are 13 on the head all right so this is your torque sequence one in the middle two three four five six seven eight or sorry eight nine ten and Then followed by 11 12 13 11 12 13 14 15. hopefully you guys can see that you can look this up online if not and it comes with the packaging that I'll list below 25 foot pounds is the first go starting in the middle here and I may have I think I may have to well maybe not okay I thought I may have to so there's 25 on that one then we're gonna go directly below it get the 25 there we'll go through the sequence that's the first pass okay it's 25 then 50 then 80 and then 25 across the top now usually guys what I do is I'll do 25 on these as I'm going so I'll do 25 then the 50 and then I'll torque these to 25 I'll do the 80 and I'll torque them to 25 again just to make sure uh it doesn't say to do that in the instruction that's just always the way that I've done it so let's get these torqued down we now have everything torqued down on this side 25 50 80 25 all complete I'm gonna go ahead and knock the other one off or out off camera and uh then we'll continue now that we got both heads bolted down both heads torqued we're gonna move on to the push rods guys and I am actually going to be reusing the stalkers nothing wrong with them I'm using the ones that came out of this motor that were already that we're doing the dod delete on the good motor and um yeah I'm just cleaning them up blowing through them making sure that it's all clear I'm going to dip both sides in a little bit of oil put them into place now that we got all the push rods in we are going to reinstall our old rockers no adjustments no changes no trunnion stock rockers I may end up putting some thread Locker on these I generally don't guys but I clean this up really good you want to make sure that you keep them in the same spot and when I mean that like they wear like a pattern on The Rocker stand so try to keep them in the same order they came off um I mean look you don't have to but I always do to me it makes sense all right we got those on I'm gonna grab the other ones clean them up real quick and then we'll come back and I'll decide whether I'm going to put any Loctite on those or just torque them down so here's what I've decided I'm going to do I'm going to take each one of these out I'm going to take them over and clean them up I'm going to put just a little bit of blue Loctite on them so look guys they're gross I'm going to wipe them down clean them up really well put some blue Loctite on it put it back in so this is going to be a process probably going to take me a little bit um I figured I'd take a couple off at a time and go over there on my grinder and we'll just clean up each one of these I'll take four at a time we'll clean up each one look at the oil on them anyway I need to clean them up um and then put some blue Loctite and put them back in place and then we'll get torque specs here in just a little bit to torque these they go down to 22 foot-pounds I did put just a barely any Loctite on them I'll call it barely 22 foot pounds but here's what I like to do uh I like to get them started and if they start moving I like to keep them as straight as possible on top of them directly on top of the valve sometimes they like to move the other thing you'll notice is um I'm going to be turning the engine over to try to be tightening these when there's no load on them if that makes sense so in order to find out where that point is you're gonna have to Snug them up by hand as a matter of fact I'm going to do that with a different wrench instead of my torque wrench that way we can kind of know where we're at you don't need much I'll just use a little quarter inch at this point I've got them all torqued down and you can see what I'm talking about making a mess down below because I don't have an oil pan I don't know I'm gonna go through and snug them down again seems like there's a little lash on that one see that may have to go to a different size push rod guys because we are snug that's making me a little bit nervous seems like the push rods are a little short so I can still spin it pretty freely yeah I think we're gonna have to go with a bigger push rod otherwise it's going to be really noisy so here's what ended up happening I don't know whether my these heads have been messed with before my guy who redid them all right he's a local machine shop and he's done a lot of Ls stuff but guys look here's what here's the issue these other these stock push rods there's still some Lash and so there's seven fours which is standard for an LS engine there's a couple things that could be going on the base Circle this cam could be a little smaller or the heads um had a little more taken off like I said they he he thinks they've been worked on before that's why he replaced the valves but either way I went to a 745 push rod which I'll list Down Below guys look here here's the method of how I'm using to Snug them down so I'm snugging them down just by hand okay these this valve is supposed to be closed both valves are closed I've cycled the engine I'm not messing with these right now I'm just dealing with this so once I get them to snug okay where there's no lash right I can't reach in there and move I can kind of spin the push rod a little bit and these are a hardened push rod so now that I've done that we're going to see if we can do this method where we count the turns we've got half okay so about a half a turn a little tighter than I'd like let's let's loosen them up a little and try this again so we're going to Snug them down okay that's snug right but they don't have any lash now let's try this again one so it's about a half a turn so I don't know the other ones are definitely too loose this gives me a little more I don't want to move it around right um I think they make a 7425 they're kind of hard to get though so we're just gonna have to go with this and if we have issues we may have to come back at a later time and address this I sure hope not um this is let's go the other side and I'll show you because I've got these torqued down but look at the play see that and I can still spin the push rod so they are definitely well this one's this one's a closed or opening starting to open uh but yeah I just didn't feel comfortable with the stock push rod especially doing this see that that's not gonna work for me that's too much and these are all torqued okay so we obviously need a longer push rod so I'm going to put these in uh they're from the same company that makes the cam cam motion guys I like to blow through these make sure there's no junk and then I put a little bit of oil on each side so I'm going to go ahead and do that off camera and then we'll get these torqued down to 22. like I said I like to do that with the engine to where the valve is not open so you can cycle it after you snug them down and then you can go back and torque them as the valves are closed at this point we've got everything torqued down to 22 foot-pounds guys I did use just a dab of blue Loctite and like I said I was cycling the engine to get the valves to where they were closed before I torqued it down uh I cycled it a couple times I just double checked my torque specs not sure what's going on with the 745 push rods um they seem to be I I redid that method to where I counted the turns and I got to like one and a half turns so that's exactly right that's where we want to be I don't know what was going on um with when I was trying to show you on camera but yeah I think that I think we're going to be good so at this point we need to grab our valve covers and we are completely finished in here and uh I think that'll be our next step is either the valve covers I'm still waiting on a couple parts I'm waiting on the valve cover gaskets um I'm also waiting on something for the timing chain down here so uh yeah I think that'll be next now we're moving on to this oil pump install and the reason I've been waiting I started this earlier but all right so we've got we get this lined up right with the pickup tube which remember I loosened that up we get these gears lined up on here it's not really a you don't have to have it a certain way just as long as the gears line up but there are there are a few intricate things I'm going to be doing so you'll see here in a second once I if I can get this thing lined up holy cow get this thing turned there we go all right so we've obviously got to line up the pickup tube at the bottom right with the new it says to use the green um seal or the green gasket and then we need to Loosely fit these guys in place these are the oil pump bolts but here's what I want to do I want to cinch these down ultimately by hand which we can go ahead and do but the pickup tube bolt that comes in from the bottom I've never used one of these before um and not the pickup 2 bolt but the I'm going to use something that sandwiches this basically around and kind of keep some extra pressure on that but before I do that let's get this thing lined up here we'll get it snug down and I when I say snug we're going to get it all the way up against the block and I'm probably going to tighten it up just a little bit but then we'll loosen it back up and you'll see why here in a minute so I wanted to show you okay so this is normally what you would see you've got the pickup tube that uses the 10 millimeter and you want to make sure that you're not pinching that O-ring okay so this is how this works we thread this in we tighten it up right everything's nice and snug however I'm going to be using this guy what this does is it reinforces the other side of that and it's made by melling see this guy here and it comes with a bolt for the opposite side it's actually threaded on both sides and this like I said just keeps this thing in place I've never used one of these I've never had one of these come out but I thought it was good insurance to thread this thing in so that's what I'm going to be doing so we're going to do we're going to torque this guy to 106 inch pounds the original one and we're also after we do that gonna torque this one to 106 inch pounds so remember we unhooked the pickup tube on the windage tray down below that's a 13-millimeter gets torqued to 18 foot-pounds so now what we're going to do before we actually torque the oil pump down itself we need to kind of shim this so what we're going to do is take this apart I know this sounds crazy but this is the best way to do it so we need to find the Torx that fits this and take this cover off now I'm using a T30 to do this so we're going to loosen these all up by hand and then I'm going to use my impact to run them all out and get this thing completely off I don't like using an impact to start I don't want to strip them so once they're loose we'll grab the impact and get this thing off of here and then we'll talk about how it's going to shim it now we've got the pump face off right and I've got these are .05 I guess it'd help if I had all the same size oh sorry .08 sorry is what we are looking for and that is I've got two of these here so what I'm going to do is I'm going to slide this one up in the top and I've taken it out of the assembly like they come all together like this I'll list these in the description down below but we've got that top one in and we're also going to slide one down on the bottom which may be a little harder and what this allows us to do is Center the gears and the pump housing I may have to go actually down a size to the next size down because that is relatively close tolerance I think is what I'm going to have to do I'm gonna have to go the next size down you can see that I've got them in there now I've got three of them I've actually got one across the top and one across the bottom but once you do that you'll see that this fits evenly right easily around the rest of the pump so we can go at any point here oh I have two of them that's great and we can put it in between the pump and the housing so we can make sure that everything's squared up and then we can torque so see how it goes in easily there and here if I can find the opening there we go so we're nice and square so now the pump is centered in the housing so we can go ahead and you shouldn't have any play at this point see that now we can torque these guys down we can screw them down and torque them to their final torque spec I'm going to put a little bit of Loctite on these guys and we're going to torque them to 18 I'm going to do it in a cross pattern so top bottom top bottom and then we're going to rotate it around once or twice making sure that we can pull that outer ring out you can you notice I've still got the shims in there so once we get the shims out of place after torquing this down and we'll probably put a little bit of oil on the inside of this I'll probably use some assembly Lube honestly just just a little bit in a couple spots and then we need to put the cover back on and torque it to 106 inch pounds I've seen 108 some places 106 some places I'm gonna go with 106. and uh call that good obviously make sure you pull your shims out before you put the plate back on the front hopefully that makes sense and look some people say you don't have to do this look guys I've done this in the past without doing this so don't think you necessarily have to it just seems like um the pump they say lasts longer because it's truly centered and um I don't know just makes sense to me like I said I'm going to put a little bit of assembly Lube in here you don't have to do this you could just use oil and I don't know if you guys notice but there's not like there's anything in here from the factory and a lot of people just put these things in and have no problem but we do need to pull these guys out and so now you can see how this slides in and out freely it's not binding up on any part like so we are set and now we can put the cover bolts back on guys I recommend putting a little bit of Loctite on these two and I'll probably run these in with the impact and then like I said torque them to 106 inch pounds they'll get real crazy with your impact either [Music] just like that now you'll also notice I'm going in a crisscross pattern with a torquing just sure you don't get it too tight 106 inch pounds so next thing we're going to do is we're going to get the timing cover in place so what I'm going to do here and it it kind of sucks because this this whole seal comes as one piece so you notice that it's got we don't have the pickup for the displacement or the active fuel management here now what we do have is a completely brand new front timing cover um this is from GM it's the only part I'll order it comes with the electronics and everything comes with the gasket comes with new bolts and um but here's the deal like how are we going to line it up right we don't have the oil pan in place well that's where part of the tool that I got comes in handy because we do have that the the problem is is I don't have the piece that fits in the center here to align that so what I'm going to do here is I'm going to Loosely thread these into place okay and once we get these started we're going to use that oil pan it's basically an oil pan simulator now we could put the oil pan on right now but I don't think I'm quite ready to do that so check this out see how much movement there is so we want to make sure that we're lined up on the bottom but we also want to make sure because they're side to side movement that we're lined up here because otherwise you're going to have an oil leak and we don't want that well the downside is I don't have the two I have the tool to Center this and then knock the seal in I don't have the tool that fits here without the seal in place I'm not going to knock the seal out because I don't have to replace it so what I'm going to do is I'm going to use the old balancer as my alignment dowel for that it's not the best method but it's the only it's I'm not going to buy another seal for this so let me grab the pan simulator which I you know we tried to use on the back but it's meant for the front we'll get that into place and then we will grab the um what the stock balancer has put it on hopefully you can see that on the bottom here my pan simulator and that is definitely made for the front because everything lines up oil pan bolt holes line up nice and flat so we can get a flat surface without mounting the pan yet and we'll run this up flush and that'll give us a good starting point at least I got the two Titan that go where the oil pan goes but the ones in the front cover I don't have Titans so what I'm going to do at this point is we're going to go ahead and put the balancer on we're going to Snug it down um I've got a balancer installer that I'm going to be using to push that or pull that thing on so we'll grab it get the balancer push it into place get these things lined up and torqued run these down as well so it's all kind of a process so for the balancer this guy here put it up into place and then this is the this basically is a tool that thread in and it pulls the balancer on now are we going to have to pull it back off yeah but guys I'd rather pull it on like this as opposed to using the old bolt and trying to push it on that way this just makes it more uniform fitment pull this thing into place real quick and then we'll start to Snug stuff down once we've got that in we'll leave that in for now we're going to run these bolts up to keep the bottom of the pants snug [Music] and now guys we are good to go ahead and torque these down to the 18 foot pounds I'm going to alternate back and forth so we'll do a top one and then a bottom one back to the top back to the bottom [Music] and I'm going kind of easy because I'm I want to make sure I get 18 on these [Applause] torque these down to 18 and I'll probably like I said I'll probably pull the balancer back off off camera now that we got that torqued down I'm going to go ahead and put the oil pan on it you're probably wondering like why didn't you just put the oil pan on first and then line this up with it well I wanted to try the new tool honestly so uh look before we put the oil pan on there's a couple things we need to make note of first of all make sure your gasket material is all cleaned off your old oil pan done that we need to go ahead and wipe this area right here you can see there's some oil right there we're going to wipe this entire mounting surface and the other thing we're going to do is we're going to put a bead of silicone in each one of these spots where a front or rear cover meet the block so we're going to put one right here we're going to put one on the other side we're going to put one back here where the rear cover meets and we're gonna put one on the other side because if you don't chances are it's going to leak there now the gasket from the oil pan covers that area but a lot of times it'll leak past that so make sure that you put that bead of silicone you guys have seen me do this numerous time on the Trans Am I feel like I had the oil pan off I don't know 50 times and so uh yeah this is no different so I want to show you guys what I got see that bead of silicone right there between the front and rear cover same thing on the other side same thing on the front hopefully you guys can see that now we need to grab our oil pan with a brand new oil pan gasket which we have and get it in place now you can see make sure your Pan's clean got a brand new gasket here you can see and I also cleaned up all the bolts off camera both the heads and the threads and we've got them pushed through there's the easiest way to get it started so I've got Cohen out here he's going to help me balance it because I don't want one side like I don't want the front smooshing up against and basically smearing that silicone that I put in those Cracks around so we want to come up nice and even from the bottom and it helps to have two people so you can see how much easier it is with two people he was able to keep this nice and steady see how we've not it's nice and even all the way around but we haven't cinched it up here's something that's important we need to lay something flat against the back here because what we don't want is the pan to be off from the Block and here's why guys if you don't make sure because this pan has some movement back and forth as well if you're not even with the block which I'm using that same tool what's going to happen is when you torque down your transmission because you can see your transmission comes through here you're going to crack the pan because it's going to draw the pan back or if it's not flush it's going to cause it to crack over time or where this gasket out prematurely so use a flat Edge to go from the Block here to the pan and you want that to be nice and flush it needs to come back just a hair and then same thing on the other side so basically where the starter goes in there now we've got all these snugged up we are going to start in the middle go side to side and we're going to torque them to 18 foot pounds okay so we're going to kind of work it the way we did the head starting in the middle working our way out so starting in the middle working our way out back and forth when you get to the back so these are all 18s the little short ones the long ones that come into the very back of the pan guys those are only 106 inch pounds do not take them to 18 you will snap them let's get these all torqued let's talk about blocking these off right so I got these like I said from I think I said it earlier from lingenfilter here's the problem guys um after buying these I saw a video where a guy used a wheel bearing I may have said that earlier here's what I did on these first two um I use this to tap it into place okay kind of get it down into where it's almost flush the problem was the first one I did the middle fell it fell all the way through this into the engine and I had to fish it out so you just want to get flush you don't want to go too far so right there I'm completely flush if you go too far that will fall into the engine you'll have to flip it over the other problem I've had is the middle falling out so hold this while you're getting your thing in place and we will pop this thing off here release the old piece out of the center and guys it leaves some aluminum I'm going to vacuum that up I do not want that falling into the motor we still got this in here but I just wanted to tell you about my issue so if you use the center to tap it in place the center will fall into the hole you're gonna have to flip your motor upside down pull it out same way if you tap it too far down in there so just be careful this is not something I would want to do over the hood or under the hood definitely want to do this before it goes in and I like I said guys I don't know that you necessarily even have to do it it's just something I felt better about um I don't want to have any oiling issues now we're moving on to valve cover gaskets and now guys look normally I use GM valve cover gaskets but they were not available in a timely manner so I am going with a felpro which look I've never had any issues with them this looks like the wrong side but the felt Pro comes with not only the gasket which I I did clean this up off camera and Cam's down there cleaning the other one for me right as we speak but um here's the situation we need to put these in okay and they go a certain way you'll see those cutouts and that other one was the exact same as this but either way we need to press this in all the way around you make sure that it seats good okay that's very important that we get it seated but what I was going to say is the felpro kit comes with new rubber grommets for your bolts and I've also cleaned up my bolts off camera with my um bench grinder over there with the wire wheel on it I wish I had a bigger wire wheel for doing like stuff like this because man it'd make it a lot easier I cleaned out the channel That this sets in and then I also cleaned out obviously the outside where the bolts go and this is a fight that you'll have getting this in here so I'm gonna get this all seated and then we'll grab the bolts and get those and I like to go around this a couple times making sure that we're good I think we're gonna be so let me go grab the bolts and we will grab the new grommets that go on them we're gonna get these things on and this motor closed up when I say the grommets so these are the bolts that I cleaned up and you can see they cleaned up really nicely we need to push these over that washer on the end I'm going to take my gloves off of this there all right there we go so that's what we want so it's a nice new seal when we go to bolt these things down all right guys this is a little bit tricky getting it started um I like to make sure the gas gets somewhat line up you also want to look in here and make sure that your valve cover gaskets aren't like rolling over on you which I did and then we need to grab our torque wrench and an eight millimeter you can see cam back there cleaning 106 inch pounds is what these go to so that's going to take some here's what I like to do I like to start in the middle I should have ran them down a little more by hand I guess but I like to start in the middle and work my way out I mean there's only four so it's not that big a deal but 106 inch pounds we'll get these things snug down and guys I think we are set at this point guys I know this has been a really long video um we got a lot accomplished I feel like but this is where I'm going to call it quits we are completely assembled and I believe guys this is exactly how I'm going to put this motor in and when I say that um obviously I'm gonna need my plate on here so I can't put my cover on um honestly I probably I went ahead and put this on I don't know if I think I'll have the clearance to do that but uh yeah we need to get the motor out of the Suburban so that'll be what we do in the next video um but either way hopefully you guys did enjoy um watching this come together it looks a lot better I know a lot of people are probably wondering should you know I thought about painting it guys but it's literally it's going in a in a suburban and uh you know I did clean it up some but ultimately you're not going to see a majority of this once you get the water pump on and all of that so yeah I think this is where we're gonna leave it so if you guys did enjoy this video this um DOD delete video because there's a lot involved um it's going to continue in the next video we'll talk about actually I'll show you the cover here this is the new cover this has the block offs in it so you have the ability to um not have the dod so I'll list that in the parts as well as well as all the other stuff that I use guys so hopefully you did enjoy this video if you did like always please smash that Thumbs Up Button guys if you're not subscribed go down there hit that subscribe button of course like always ring that Bell notification that notifies you every single time we drop a new video and stay tuned to see this thing go in that Suburban [Music] foreign [Music]

Channel: TWA Motorsports

Views: 17,450

Keywords: 5.3 Engine Assembled with DOD Delete and Bigger Cam (Suburban Engine), twa motorsports dod delete, twa motorsports, how to do dod delete, how to do vvt and dod delete, best how to dod vvt delete, non dod cam replacement, how to remove displacement on demand, dod delete cam, dod vvt delete camshaft, what parts to do dod delete, tahoe suburban silverado sierra dod vvt delete, how to remove dod from tahoe suburban, parts needed to do dod delete gm vehicles, best process dod delete

Id: fkyvmMpMWD8

Length: 75min 15sec (4515 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 25 2023