Goodbye Displacement on Demand - COMP Cams DOD Delete [FULL TIME V8]

[Music] this is tim with shop tour reviews a little bit different video format today what we're covering is replacing the displacement on demand feature on our gm ls style engine this specifically is a 6.2 liter but it's going to be the same from the 4.8 liter all the way up to the 6.2 and comp cams even makes a uh replacement uh kit for the el new lt series as well the new direct injection motors so everything from trucks to camaros corvettes you name it that the ls was in most of those had the displacement on demand options where it drops out the cylinders to supposedly help gas mileage but after a while they decide to start dropping lifters and potentially that ruins camshafts which ruins engines so as soon as we heard a tick we knew what it was and knew it was time to change out or actually in our case we're eliminating the displacement on demand so comp cams has complete displacement on demand or dod elimination kits so you can buy the complete kit for your ls1 ls2 ls3 or l92 like we have here there's a 6.2 liter in a gm suv but again a lot of this is going to be the same on any of the ls series motors as long as they've got displacement on demand now we're keeping the variable valve timing so we'll keep the vvt i will install their comp cams cam phaser kit so we'll it will uh lessen that um that variable valve timing from the way it is from the factory but it'll be able to utilize that better with their cam profile we're also installing a comp cam stage 2 kit by the way here's the cam phaser we're taking off right there um and be careful there's a big spring in there that can come unbound now we're taking the heads off and uh in a second here once we get the heads off you'll see here the lifter trays and then we'll see the funky lifter for that dod and you'll see it come out right here so that long spring that longer lifter there will compare it to a regular lifter so that longer lifter is on those um one of those cylinders where it drops that cylinder when it reads a certain amount of oil pressure when you're going down the road um so we're going to be eliminating that we're going to be changing out this camshaft as well from comp cams and putting in a new camshaft so we've got the heads off of our uh l92 or 6.2 liter engine um going to look at a couple of things here number one we'll we'll be cleaning them up here in a little bit but wanted to go ahead and get these uh springs off and uh and get these valves out of here and by the way these are like i mentioned on l92s you got a rectangular port so they're not the cathedral port like you see on the a lot of the five threes and uh ls ones things like that so uh the rectangle port is gonna flow a lot better a lot more again for that big 6.2 now one of the cool things about comp cams is they have their valve spring compressor tool um and this is made out of beefy cast iron it's not aluminum in fact i think they guarantee this forever uh and the model number i think is 50 54 62 so basically that's just your model number part number if you will so we're going to go ahead and uh and use this tool so first thing is this will actually go either way so depending on your clearance issues um you put this either way but you see you have a recession area here so you can use that and that fits very well here on these uh on these keepers on these beehive style uh ls ls series engines one of the things that says pretty critical is that you really lube um the bolt that's actually doing the pressing here so this this bolt here so they say put quite you know a good amount of assembly lube on it again because that's going to be doing the heavy lifting if you will i'll go ahead and start this one and then you're just gonna use the included bolts here and they've got long ones as well as short ones looks like the short ones will do for us and include include these washers here so you can see quite a bit adjustability with that one elongated hole this will actually work good on just about any engine basically okay that on now we can go and tighten this [Music] yeah just lost the keepers like that but anyway use a nice magnet tool to actually pick those up unlike what i just did good thing we'll be replacing the keepers anyway [Music] often next one that works much better so this is a very useful tool uh to be able to remove all these valve springs and keep valve locks and retainers without damaging any of them so uh it's worth the the few few bucks to to buy something like this to again uh have the right tool for the right job and it's something that you can have forever to uh and it's an easy tool to use now we're using a little impact driver here to to drive the bolts down and then to compress the springs as well and you can work two two valves at one time so any of the ls motors this is going to work great on so again highly recommend that tool uh from comp cams um here we're just uh cleaning up the valves a little bit so chucking them in the in the drill using a little scotch brite pad some brake cleaner or some degreaser clean those up pretty good some of the more carbonized ones may take a little more effort to clean up and then we've also laughed the valves so this is after lapping them you can see the nice little burn marks here on the right hand side but now they're cleaned up very well after lapping them for a little bit so this is the comp cams beehive spring micrometer now what this is going to tell us is maximum valve height and the reason we want to know that is for a few reasons actually one of the main ones is we don't want coil bind in other words we can't if we got a really high lift camshaft and our in our spring height and our spring seat and basically at maximum lift they don't equate or there's not enough room there you'll get coil bind where the coil springs actually get too close to one another and actually break a spring got a lot of harmonics going on in there as well as just the sheer you know friction friction and feedback of the spring and the strength of the spring so anyway all of those things geometry as well come into effect and especially when you're talking about you know four five six seven thousand rpms um so if we don't have that valve height correct we can cause coil bind and we can also break things and that sort of thing also when we're looking at valve height not only do we want to know if kind of we're in that window we also are dealing with we've got in this case this is a you know ls style v8 so we got one camshaft so that's a plane if you will and we need to make sure the other plane which is going to be our actual rocker arms and whole valve train geometry is operating on equal planes or parallel planes if you will so not necessarily equal but parallel planes so if we've got one height set up we want to make sure that all the others are within a certain amount of distance and for that number we're looking at about 20 thousandths to be in the kind of across these eight valves from intakes and exhaust and all these we want to be within 20 000. so what we're looking at from the valve seat so on an aluminum head like this you're going to have a valve seat like that a lot of times cast iron heads may just have cups in there or actually use the cast iron and then this is we're going to use our micrometer and then we're going to actually use so basically this is taking the police place of our spring so we can actually measure that max valve height and then we're actually going to use a retainer there and then we're going to use a couple of keepers or locks whatever you want to call these things i call them keepers i think they're correct turn term is locks or valve locks and then we're going to use the correct uh correct valve so we know this is the actual the uh driver side um head because my crossover passage is here therefore i know that's on the front of the head here's the intake side so therefore this is the driver's side so we're looking at one three five and seven cylinders so this is actually number seven on the exhaust port so let me find number seven here on the exhaust port which would be right here give it a little dab of oil there just to make sure we're coming up through the through the valve guide so now we've got our valve up there we want to close this keeper down that valve is going to fall out of there i know it is got our valve locks in there now you just kind of push the valve down and then i'm just going to now like we're unscrewing something so we're expanding that micrometer and as it sees so you'll feel it kind of grab there now we want to find our numbers it's actually down here and it is 785 thousandths uh 787. 787 thousandths i'm gonna go in here i've got me a nice little sheet here and so number seven exhaust would i say seven the 787 so we're going to do this on every one of these so we're going to use that on each one of the valves to actually check that uh that maximum spring height uh so we're going to move along here and by the way i think he said we said 787 it's actually 1.787 so it's an inch and then 787 thousandths or a little over one three-quarter inches so here's where we're going along and checking all those and now we're going to set up and actually uh now we're going to install all the posi lock valve seals here from comp cams so we're going to oil these a little bit get a little bit of oil on them so they don't get cut make sure you don't cut these when you're putting them on the uh on the valves sometimes they can have a sharp edge and cut them uh and now we're going to use our tool again like we took the springs off uh to put the new springs on and these are the new uh these are comp cams beehive springs and just a great set of springs for stepping up that performance and being able to use a still a you know 600 lift cam shaft without using dual springs and that beehive spring just has a a great profile that seals very well uh doesn't float at high rpms i believe this camshaft we're installing it's got a red line at around 6600 which is a lot for a heavy suv like we'll be running it in so probably won't ever worry about that top end but again uh it's got that uh that ability to run up there at that higher rpm where the stock one's probably going to die somewhere around the 5500 range so this is uh installing that new roller cam shaft and getting it in there so with that high lift you got to be careful when you're going through these these cam bearings even though the on the ls they make it easy so these things install rather easily where they're on the on an older small block that's where you'd have trouble with that big of a of a lift you'd have a lot of um wiggling around getting it through the uh through the cam bearing so not a problem here though just put a little 30 weight oil on here to lube it up because again it is a roller cam shaft no need for assembly lube here especially when we're going to run this within hours of of getting this uh put together um so again just installing some 30 weight oil on it and getting it in there spin it around a little bit and get it seated in well now it's time to install those new lifters so we're going to put those in the lifter trays and again these are the new comp cams lifters uh so they do not have we're not replacing those displacement on demand lifters so they'll be all conventional roller style lifters uh from comp with new lifter trays in here so they should sit in there quite well quite firmly and you stay in there the next time we need to pull those out no need to uh to do anything other than just kind of have these soaking in regular oil and the roller should be good to go and and ready for assembly now installing the head gasket pretty easily when it's marked right there on the front for the front of the engine so make sure you do that line them up on your dowel pins and push those on and get ready for the cylinder heads we are using kind of factory style uh multi-layer head gaskets those are great head gaskets so no need to go on anything different than that now we're installing these uh these heads with the new comp cams valve springs and as well as the new seals on there so we'll be good to go and ready for just about a brand new motor here also using new torque to yield fasteners so all brand new bolts that come with the kit come with the dod delete kit from comp cams and just taking our impact and running it in very very gingerly here on a low setting to just basically touch the bolt against the cylinder head not to torque it at all so we're not really using any force with the impact then we're coming back and using our ratchet to again kind of uh cinch it down if you will and get ready to do the first round of torquing now going back and getting those 10 millimeters that are on top there near the valley cover so we're going to do a first round of torquing and then once we do that then we'll come back and do the uh the ankle as well to fully seat fully stretch those bolts on the heads so here is the new valley cover that takes place of the old one this is off the displacement on demand but this is what the bottom of the valley cover looks like see all those oil passages and these are the solenoids uh solenoids solenoids whatever did actually bolt to that hook to that controller to that pin out right there and basically it opens and closes based off the computer allowing the oil to go in and either collapse those injectors or to pull them out of the way if you will so that it runs on only four cylinders so all that contraption is removed and replaced by this and of course the new camshaft and uh programming as well so we're starting to button up the top end of this installing that valley pan cover running in with our impact and now uh torquing these down and then next we'll be installing the uh the rockers as well as the push rods and really starting to button this thing up get the valve covers on it ready for assembly so just touching the tips of these in some 30 weight oil uh again just to kind of get some lube on them i will be starting this up very quickly after getting it installed so putting the rail on and now putting these rockers on here uh with the rebuilt trunnions we did use the comp cam skit to uh to rebuild the trunnions on these uh put new needle bearings in here that is a weak spot of some of these ls's are the trunnions but otherwise these stock rockers are great rockers with that trunnion upgrade from comp so no need to buy new rockers just replace the trunnions and also they have a easy to use tool to change those out as well use a little bench vise and and their tool and quickly change out the trunnion bearings on these uh gm stock rockers so here we are putting each one of these on and and torquing them down and rotating them making sure on the flat spot of the cam even though these are really not necessary if you will on the ls engines uh but it makes sense if you uh you get this on the on the base circle of the cam before you torque them down and also you want to make sure that that you do have the the stock height on there if you don't make sure you don't need a longer or a shorter push rod which we didn't all of ours uh measured out quite nicely here so getting this finished up and uh turn it over a few times just to kind of watch and make sure that there's no binding make sure i'm not feeling anything and as we're rotating this as well as making sure that all eight cylinders are opening and closing the intakes and exhaust without problem and now it's time to move on to our timing chain and get this uh timing chaining gears put on as well as the cam the new cam phaser in the existing cam gear if you will and as well as the tensioner here so this is what's going to keep tension on your timing chain so that as it wears it's gonna keep that slack out of it keep it from being sloppy here's where we're moving this to safety bolt on this cam phaser because it it will come apart there's a big spring in there this coil doll up and uh we'll make a big mess and create a bigger bill for you if you don't uh keep that safety bolt on there as long as possible and now we've got to line these dots up and make sure that we're we're in time here so not really going to explain all that pretty easy to find information about that if you haven't done this before but again as i mentioned be sure with that uh cam phaser unit there you see i'm kind of holding it together to make sure it doesn't come apart and then you've got a feel for the dowel pin in that camshaft especially with this vvt cam and then that special cam bolt goes in there but again you want to make sure everything's lining up before you put that in there and you've also got to get something to hold that while you torque that bolt uh to where it needs to be uh so taking a wrench you're just firming up and then here's where i'm doing something that a lot of people might may scoff at this but just heating this up to about 200 degrees which is not going to hurt any seal as you can see i'm using my ir temp gun here but just again see this to be 200 220 degrees just to expand this a little bit because this is an interference fit uh harmonic balancer that goes on the sound of the camshaft there's no keyway on these like the old small blocks and big blocks this is just on the ls it's just basically like i said an interference fit and you want it you want it to go in there quite a ways and then you can pull it on with that bolt but otherwise you can strip a bolt by trying to install those with too short of a bolt and by the way there are longer bolts that you can get in aiding doing that or you can buy the install kit now it's here we're here's we're installing this back into the uh to the engine compartment not going to get into the details here again this gm suv that's going to change whether it's a truck suv car you name it but again as far as the the setup the displacement on demand kit on the ls all pretty much the same way and really great kit from comp cams once we got this in we did have to do some tuning on it so we had our tuner uh tuned the dod out of it as well as so basically you can go into the into the tables and tell it to turn off the dod and also limit the vvt or the variable valve timing but really woke up this suv were got a lot more top end than it used to still has plenty if not more of the low end and mid-range as well but again just really increase that rpm curve on the top end and really woke this this truck up again it's still a big elephant so it's not going to be a rocket ship but we were very impressed with comp camp's kit and look forward to doing more so check them out at compcams.com and also keep track of us on instagram facebook and twitter have a great day

Channel: Shop Tool Reviews

Views: 114,327

Keywords: comp cams, shop tool reviews, dod delete, displacement on demand, vvt, variable valve timing, afm, active fuel management, best ls cam, ls cam kit, beehive valve springs, 6.2 cam kit, 6.2 delete kits, escalade cam, chevy truck cam, how to delete displacement on demand, how to delete dod, how to delete afm, best chevy truck cam, best comp cams, ls1 cam, ls2 cam, ls3 cam, 6.0 cam, 5.3 cam, best 5.3 cam, best 6.0 cam, 6.0 ls cam, cam phaser

Id: aHxmOuC6_do

Length: 22min 23sec (1343 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 24 2020