47RH Transmission Rebuild

welcome back to my 47 RH build I just got this shipment of goodies from Garen and Logan built this will make this by far the most expensive single component I have assembled for any vehicle big investment [Music] so I have my new valve body from Garen that's been upgraded in many ways that I don't fully understand but it looks pretty sweet so all I need to do now is move the rooster comb from the old valve body on to the new valve body and then I also have some new stuff from garand that's associated with doing that now since this detent ball is under spring pressure Eddie to make sure that I cover it so it doesn't go flying this way this is the old detent ball and spring setup and this is what's going in my Bilt transmission it's a little bullet instead so I'll go ahead and install this right here next I need this little guy this is the stock piece this is the upgraded garand piece so there's the rooster comb there pick out this old seal and I'll go ahead and press the new seal in there just like that and there we go foul body is ready to go now so I'm gonna stick it back in its packaging to keep any dust off of it and then I'll come back to it when it's time to actually install it into the transmission I'm gonna start reassembling the overdrive section on my pile of new parts I have my overdrive direct clutches and I'm gonna stick them in a marinade while those are soaking I'm gonna go ahead and use some lint-free shop rags and kind of clean everything up so I've been marinating these overnight and it's just gonna be 9 o'clock YZ 8 regular Steel's the thick bottom steel and then it's thick top steel so I'm gonna stack it up imitating the old stack got everything cleaned up now I can go ahead and reassemble it I got my index marks right here that I need to make sure I line got that aligned now I can go ahead and put this snap ring back in before I forget I'm gonna put a little Vaseline on the bushings nothing crazy just thin-film go go ahead and put this one in the bottom all right now I'm gonna start loading the overdrive gear train assembly back up and I'm going to first take the roller for the overrunning clutch there's a lip on one side and it's not on the other side that lip skirt is gonna go on the hub so the skirt is on the backside next thing I'm gonna do is take my new bearing and the crimped side faces down like that and then stick it to the bottom of the clutch hub here so now I'm just gonna stick my fingers in the splines like that and then just load this in and it takes just a little bit of a clockwise motion to get it down in there and seated next I've got my new planetary and I'm just gonna dunk it real quick there's the new planetary in there and now I'm gonna focus on the little Sun gear here so I have a new plate and a new bearing new bearing can get soaked in ATF and now I'm just gonna put some petroleum jelly on the bushings now I'm gonna go ahead and dunk this in ATF I'm gonna install the new backing plate here clean off my snap ring here all right now I'm gonna take the gigantic direct spring and put it on this side of the Sun gear then I'm going to take the clutch hub here slide it over the top making sure that my splines are engaged now I'm gonna stick this in the press and then install this snap ring so I'm just making sure that my round wire snap ring is fully seated the whole way around before I release this go ahead and load the Sun gear clutch hub assembly into the gear train so I soaked my new bearing in ATF the side with the little crimps on it with the inner race that needs to face down the next thing I'm going to do is go ahead and load this up with clutches and steels this first one here the reaction plate it's counterbored on the backside see that little recess there that recess needs to face down the top plate here the lip faces up the next thing I need to do is stick in my alignment tool to make sure that the overrunning clutch and the planetary are aligned the alignment tool has fully seated down in there now I can stick this in the press and all I have to do is press down on that hub until this top plate falls below the recess for this snap ring [Music] next I've got my new front bearing here so I'm gonna soak this in ATF real quick just in case you're wondering it's a Koi oh and that's the part number now I need to make sure that the snap ring groove that's machined into the outside of the bearing faces up in this case now I can go ahead and insert the retaining snap ring now that I have the overdrive gear train assembly pretty well put together I'm gonna go ahead and rebuild the governor assembly now inside it is a little filtration element that I need to make sure is clean these three sealing rings here I have new ones [Music] so there's the tiny little filter all right I got everything cleaned up pretty well now I'm gonna go ahead and reassemble I'm gonna start by taking my filter which I cleaned out and I'm just gonna dip it in ATF real quick with the key facing this way the filter goes to the hole on this side now I'm gonna go ahead and reinstall all the bolts exactly where they were and I'm gonna put just a dab of blue loctite on the threads next I'm going to install my three new sealing rings and before installing each one I'm just gonna compress them over Center just a little bit like this now I'm going to go ahead and get the governor body installed on the output shaft and to do that I'm just going to take the little key find which way it fits the snug as' and then put just a little bit of vaseline on it to hold it in place and then I'll install the governor alright now I'm going to go ahead and torque these for governor body bolts to 8 foot pounds first I'm going to take the weight got to check the action on the two-stage the gasoline 47 our H's they have a three stage governor wait I believe and the diesels have a two-stage so I think theoretically you could take a gasoline 47 RH and modify the governor and then use it in a diesel now I'm gonna take the thin washer and put that in place next I'm going to install this internal snap ring and I'm facing the sharp side or the machined flat side out just because I think it'll hold better alright now to address the opposite side here's the governor valve shaft now the side with this little recess is going to be going in there like this so the recess faces this end the first thing that I'm going to do is take my eclip right here and now there's a rounded side and there's a side that's machined flat the flat machine side needs to face in and now I need to put the other circlip on once again making sure that the rounded side faces out next I'm just gonna put this snap ring to retain the governor I don't think it's gonna make much difference but I just clocked the sealing rings here so that they're not all in the line all right this assembly is ready to get loaded into the overdrive housing now I'm going to go ahead and load up the overdrive housing next now I'm going to go ahead and cut a gasket this won't be necessary unless you're putting this into a first-gen but I'm not going to put the seal in here because the NP 205 transfer case when it sits in here that seal can't be there so instead I'm gonna have to use this flange to create the seal between the transmission in the transfer case so ATF doesn't go everywhere so this is a 5 inch diameter hole right here so I'm gonna go ahead and Mark that on my gasket material and then cut the rest of the shape out [Music] alright so there's the gasket for what I need it so since there's not going to be a seal on the output shaft right here there's going to be a TF that's gonna sit in this portion here and I want to see how much can actually fit in there so that I know in addition to the deep pan how much extra ATF I should put in this thing to account for that so I'm gonna go ahead and dump some distilled water in here and try and get a estimate all right so I measured the volume of all of these pockets and stuff where ATF is going to collect and now I need to measure the volume of the I guess it would be a cylinder so I need to measure the cylinder volume of five inches times that's about half an inch but I'll measure it and then that'll tell me the complete volume of ATF that's gonna sit back here and I can factor that in to how much I fill this thing and again this is only applicable if it's being swapped into a first gen with then p2o5 transfer case not the 241 after some very unexpected into it so there is the nice clean empty case so first I've got the rear bearing this one was in good shape so I'm just gonna go ahead and dip it in ATF real quick and then install that followed by the snap ring next the snap ring can go in next thing I'm going to do is clean off the governor support and the tubes one last time with compressed air and then get them installed next I'm gonna go ahead and install the parking pawl stuff first I'm going to install this little guy with the pin that fits in that recess down there this funky little snap ring sits on top to retain it next I just have to install the actual call itself the pause shaft the spring that makes it springy and that guy gets torqued to 20 foot pounds according to the manual alright next I'm gonna install the bolt that retains the rod which is down seated in that hole now with the hollow end facing up so it's easy to extract and just verify that it works correctly next I'm going to load the front bearing snap ring into the case alright now what I'm gonna do is move this on to my special tool which I used a minute ago pressing everything into place now I'm going to lift the case and gently place it I'm to the point where I can go back through this little window right here and I need to expand this snap ring to get it to grab the front bearing and then the gear train assembly will be inside the case there we go alright next comes the flat snap ring [Music] next comes the wavy one next I'm going to install the reaction plate this one measures point two one five inches next thing I'm going to do is install all the clutches and steels [Music] so typically a 47 RH will have five clutches but these are black Altos and there's room for six so we're running six now I can take this dinky little round wire snap ring and put it in the top groove next thing we need to do is take some measurements to figure out exactly which selected spacer I should run alright so I'm back and hopefully this is the last thing I'm gonna have to buy for this transmission before I assemble it it's kind of starting to drive me crazy so I bought a new point two one five top plate for the overdrive direct so I'm gonna try this and then I also have a sonic shim kit which I can actually add these shims underneath the thrust bearing there and then maybe that will give me the clearance that I'm looking for so change the plans I think I actually need to order some different stuff for this so I'm gonna put that on pause and instead I'm gonna start loading up the main case and I got this all cleaned up so now I'm gonna start with installing the servos first I'm going to install the low reverse servo got the bore cleaned up and I'm replacing it with the superior to / servo kit combined with new spring and some of the old parts like the snap ring and whatnot and then just kind of throw all that all this together and then put it into the case [Music] the reason the new one is so much wider than stock is because this one actually has a tendency to get kind of cockeyed in the bore and it'll stick but these ones with the little Teflon sliders they are a lot more stable inside the bore so this is a good upgrade for sure there we go lube the new piston plug and this is the old spring and the old snap ring their retainer and now I'm just gonna put a little bit of ATF on this and a little bit from the bore and then I'm gonna seat it in there being careful not to catch the lip of this seal on anything and make sure it gets in there nice and straight servo assemblies in there next this thick boy goes in you can see how much bigger it is in the stock spring this is the spring retainer that comes with the superior kit that guy goes like that and then I need to push down on this whole fiasco and then install the snap ring so it was a huge pain but I was able to get that new heavy-duty spring compressed down so that I could get the snap ring in there I had to use this punch that I had laying around to rest on this rib on the case and then I used this C clamp to compress the spring and then I snuck the snap ring in there next I'm gonna do the front servo slash kick down servo get all that figured out real quick for the front servo I'm gonna get rid of the stock spring don't need it I'm gonna be using this Sonic's billet cover which is this piece here came with that little o-ring and then I'm gonna take this apart pull the servo pin out and then cobble all of this together cool now I'm gonna get all these goodies cleaned up and then assemble everything don't need this anymore and I'm gonna be doing this version so the only way that I was able to get this top ceiling ring past the snap ring groove is by sneaking a couple of really thin feeler gauges in here to guide it past and then obviously I'm using my valve spring compressor to get it in there make sure these come out in one piece no time to install this lever got some new o-rings on the end there next I've got my tighter ratio lever for the front band it also came with some heavy duty pieces as well here's the stock one and this is the one that's going in there next I need to install the little plug that goes in the front and retains the shaft that holds this lever next I'm going to install the overdrive piston support here there's a tiny filter that I'm gonna pull out and install a new one and then I got the new gasket here and these get torqued to 12 and a half foot pounds alright now that I got a few less items cluttering up the bench I'm going to get the case out of the way and then start putting sub assemblies together so starting with the front clutch assembly I'm gonna go ahead and get all this put together I need to put new lip seals on the piston room side faces down like that and the same applies for this smaller one which seats under here so I'm gonna dip these in ATF real quick and install them there's the new seals installed now I'm just going to gently finesse the piston into the drum next I'm going to install the springs and I'm actually adding three so I'm going from a nine spring to a twelve spring setup now I need to find a way to compress this plate down so that I can install the snap ring the reaction plate is the same size but this is a four clutch setup and this is a five clutch setup so hopefully it'll fit I just noticed that the reaction plate for the overdrive direct happened to be the right size that if I set it over the top of this it looks like it'll push down on it pretty well so I took that and then welded these pieces of pipe to it so I'm going to compress the retainer and then install the snap ring there it is so I got the front drum done and I just noticed that I didn't put this in this is the updated seal for the piston and I use the one that just came with the kit so your man's here has to disassemble everything I just did and redo it so that I can put the updated seal in there all right now I'm gonna load up the drum and take a measurement to see how it looks now I'm just gonna take my input shaft and run it through the splines of all the clutches and make sure that everything's lined up so I'm getting rid of the wavy snap ring and I installed a flat one that's the same thickness and now I need to measure the clearance using feeler gauges the clearance actually needs to be eighty to eighty-five thousandths so I actually ended up having to machine the pressure plate just had some material cut out of the backside to obtain the proper clearance and then I'm gonna make sure that I use the non machine side facing the clutch because I don't know if this is nitrite it or what now that that Fiasco has figured out it's time to build up the rear clutch big improvement here is this which I'm pretty excited about it's probably the most expensive single component I've ever bought it's a billet input shaft and it's a one-piece so the old input shaft is actually comprised of two parts this part which is the shaft and then this part with the splines and then it's all held together with a snap ring but this design is much much stronger here's the clutch pack also got some different selective snap rings to make sure that I have enough clearance and then I've got my garand heavy bevel spring kit which includes which includes the snap rings that are needed and then it gives the instructions on how to install that got the new piston which is this size and that is necessary to utilize this kit so got that piston got new seals for it the drum is all cleaned up I got new seal rings for the input shaft but those don't have to go in right this second let's get to it but there's the new 780 piston with the new seals and the lips face down on both now the next thing that goes on is the garand bevel spring here and then the Garan kit also comes with this steel spacer so steel spacer goes next now I'm putting the original wavy snap ring back in that I saved from earlier next I'm gonna load up the clutch pack here starting with the bottom pressure plate with that beveled lip facing down next comes a clutch obviously though garand includes a 60 thousandths selected snap ring so try this all right got are all stacked up clearance is on the tighter side it's at about 20 mm or so but that's within what's allowable I got the new sealing rings on the input shaft there I have a thrust washer I need to throw on there and there we go alright so I think I finally have the parts that I need to solve this fiasco so I have some 55,000 otherwise known as second design steels so I don't know if I have a 100 thousand ninety thousand and depending on which it is will determine how many of the clutches I'll keep I'll be using the second design pressure plate which is 85 thousands if you measure at the ears not the total height so I'm gonna figure out what combination is actually going to work in here I'm gonna press it all apart again and then reassemble it stack it shim it and then I'll show you how I'm gonna measure it got the overdrive assembled back to this point the combination that I ended up going with is I have a hundred thousand steels and the eighty-five thousand pressure plate on top and then reassembled everything made sure that the intermediate shaft still runs through both sets of splines all that's aligned and looks good so now I'm gonna take some measurements to see what the manual recommends for my Selective spacer first thing I'm going to do is put a straight edge across the face of the overdrive here and then I'm going to use my calipers so all I'm doing is measuring from my straightedge to the face of this and I'm gonna do it in four different spots that [Music] so I've got my four measurements now I'm gonna add them up and divide by four to a ver egde them there's my average measurement now what I'm gonna do is subtract the thickness of the straightedge that I used and that's what I get one point 335 is the actual clearance between the face of the Overdrive case and the face of the hub right here there's a chart that Chrysler made that tells you which selective spacer to use and in order to reference that chart I now need to add 0.5 to this answer because that's the thickness of the chrysler tool so I'm gonna add that and then see what I get and that gives me the number that I need to reference the Chrysler chart and I'll show you that now [Music] [Music] after all of that nonsense and referencing that chart this is the spacer that Chrysler would have me use but let me show you why I'm not going to so I need to make sure that my round wire snap ring isn't installed yet I'll just set that out of the way for now so now I install my bearing and I've got my point 185 spacer here now take the piston here install that on top now it does spin there is clearance between the face of the piston and this top steel but the amount that there is I don't like and I'm gonna show that to you with the first method of measuring this but I know of two others and I'll show you all three so that you can pick whichever you have the materials for whichever you like the best so the first method is measure the thickness of the overdrive piston so I'm gonna get that measurement right now I'm gonna measure the distance from the face of the overdrive piston up here down to the face of that first steel so that gives me a clearance of 40 mm now the reason that I want more than that is because my builder says that he has smoked direct clutches at anything less than 120,000 s what I'm doing now so I put in the thickest single spacer that I have here which is a point two four five and then I've got my piston back on top spins obviously but let me show you the quickest way that I can reference this is I have a bunch of different drill bits that to tell me how big the gap is just make sure that it isn't getting cockeyed or anything otherwise it'll mess up the measurement so that's the my favorite quick reference for measuring it and then let me show you another way to do it take some play-doh now this method probably isn't the best but it's another reference gonna be treated as plastic age essentially and then I just take my piston push it down over the top until it's bottoms and then I'll measure the height of the smashed play-doh balls and that would tell me what the clearance is so just another another idea for you if you need it so again this is the target that I'm going for even with the tallest selective spacer that there is listed in the chart which is a point two four five this is all the clearance that I can get so that's where this comes in these little shims right here which are ten thousands and they come in this little kit here the way that these work pull the piston off and then they go just like this they sit on top of the bearing and then they're kind of held in place by the lip of the bearing so not a big deal yeah I think you could put up to three of them before you'd start running into problems but let's see what one gives us and then obviously I forgot to mention this earlier way that I'm actually measuring it is I'm just stacking up feeler gauges long ways in this little pocket right here obviously got to make sure not to drop anything while I'm doing all this shenanigans you don't want Plato or feeler gauges and your overdrive but should be plenty to not smoke the direct when it applies now I'm going to show you why I'm comfortable with that because the chart only goes to a point two four or five and I'm doing a total stack tight of 0.255 so let me show you a little note in a TSG that makes me comfortable doing this or in addition to my part supplier saying it's cool that's the downside according to the manual now if that thrust plate is too thin this is what it says all right so now I can finally put my round wire snap ring in the groove so another thing to consider is the intermediate shaft spacer which is this guy right here in case you're interested I'll show you the chart on how to do that [Music] [Music] I think I came up with a way to measure for this little guy I looked at how the special tool is made that I don't own and the tool starts where the splines start so this would be where the top of the tool is and I know that the tool is 5.5 inches long so I just took a you know my machinist ruler here I measured from the face of the current Selective spacer 5.5 inches to this bearing surface and then I took the shaft stuck it in the bore here until it bottomed doubt and then I used my same straightedge from before and measured the distance from the straightedge to my mark and then subtracted the length of my straightedge and added the point five for the special tool straightedge length and that gave me a point seven six five and that translated to it was kind of right on the edge between these two Selective spacers and I have this Selective spacer just kind of a ballpark way to do it but it worked pretty well for me here's a couple more pages that might help you out alright next I'm going to install some new seals on the overdrive piston before I forget and the the pressure is going to come from this direction so the grooves face me now I'm going to install the piston on to the overdrive fist and retainer making sure that the little pegs fit into the holes I found something really interesting that explains why the factory calculation didn't work for the overdrive and it's because I don't know what this piston is from but it's the wrong thickness this is the one that was in the transmission and it's a point six four five the 47 rh is supposed to have this one which is a point six one five I don't know how that got messed up but I'm gonna take the seals off of the incorrect piston get them on the correct one which I bought so I'm gonna run the 200 thou selectively spacer plus three of the sonic shims which gives me a total height of two hundred and thirty thousandths but at least I have the right one of these now that's good now I can go ahead and get this point six one five piston installed the Templar temporarily put all the old junk back into the input shaft gear train here and I'm gonna go ahead and pull it apart install new thrust washers the drive shell and that's pretty much it all right for my next trick I'm going to this Fiasco apart and replace the junky drive shell with a new one and to do that just gonna pull this snap ring off and then install this gear this washer back on the new driving shell so I have my quote on quote new driving shell installed on the Sun gear here it's been repaired in the same manner that the old one that I had was even though it was supposed to be new you can see the heat there from where it was welded so I actually didn't notice until I was going to assemble the intermediate gear train but my intermediate shaft has just been butchered somebody decided to do what some guys will do to gassers which is they'll grind down the surface of some of the loopholes and then they'll drill the holes bigger because they think it lubricates the planets better or something and I don't know I could see that argument but in a diesel look at look at how much material they cut out of the shaft so I got a new one you can see how much smaller the loopholes are and then another thing I noticed is I needed a new annulus here because the splines on this one are just so worn out look at this pretty much ready to strip out also got this this shim kit here which should tighten up some of the sloppiness in the intermediate and then I put another hundred and seventy-five thousandths selective intermediate spacer on just so that everything matches up [Music] these shims are pretty handy so I played around within a couple times and I ended up just shimming with three of these behind the thrust washer back in here and that brings everything forward and should engage the castle ations on this driving shell a little bit better this thing only has like ten thousandths clearance now so this is way better than it was next up assembly is the oil pump and you'll notice that this is already assembled it's got new rings there's new bushings in it new seal it's got a new lip seal as well pump bolts here get torqued to 15 foot-pounds so I'm just gonna verify that they are I need to replace this case seal right here got the new one so I'm gonna start loading up the case and I'm a dip this in ATF and then put it into the cam next I'm gonna get some ATF on the low reverse drum and then load that in along with the band which has been soaking in ATF next up this little guy mister here beside with the bronze coating is gonna face down so that it rides on this surface of the low reverse drum next comes the snap ring and then I'm just checking the action of it by making sure that it spins clockwise one view from the front but it won't spin counterclockwise next up this little spacer needs to go in there's that little thrust washer in there [Music] next I'm going to go ahead and install the front kick down band and it's been soaking in ATF overnight I've got the band retention stuff in place just loosely for now all right now it's time for the pump I've got a new gasket so I'm gonna put it on there and then torque the attachment bolts to 175 inch pounds all right now I just have to turn the gear train and make sure there's no binding or anything weird looks pretty good to me all right so now I'm going to adjust the band's starting with the rear and I'm just gonna torque this guy to 72 inch pounds or 6 foot pounds and then back it off three turns exactly and then tighten down the lock nut to 25 foot-pounds all right rear is now adjusted now I need to adjust the front I'm using a funky five sixteenths and same thing gonna torque this one to six foot-pounds 72 inch pounds and then I'm gonna back this one out two and a quarter turns exactly and then I'll tighten down this lock nut to thirty foot pounds so of course I had to get on the forums last night and I was doing some reading and apparently the front planetary that's made out of aluminum has 5 pinions and it's splined to the front of the intermediate shaft apparently that's a common like a really common failure point so I went to buy a steel 5 pinion front to replace it out of a 47 re and supposedly that is just a straight swap and it fits in however the the supplier had a good deal on a 6 pinion front allegedly this should work and then I need to use the thrust washer that came with it which has six tangs instead of five and then hopefully it's the same height it looks like it is but I don't really know pulled it apart again and now I'm just comparing the stock aluminum planetary here with five pinions to the six pinion now the height from my surface to here is the same on both which is what matters this is about two millimeters taller than this one but that shouldn't matter because the five tang which is for this one and six tang which is for this one are the same height and the annulus gear sits the same that leaves the only question of using this isolator or this isolator and I think I'm going to go with this one because this one sits below the mating surface with the next thrust washer whereas this one actually sits a little higher and it would be riding on this inside diameter and I think what would happen over time is that would wear out probably create like a sliver that could cause some problems so I'm gonna go with the shorter plastic isolator and then put this whole stack back in there just like it is you next I'm gonna install my billet accumulator and the spring alright now I'm going to install the valve body now I'm going to torque them to about nine foot pounds hundred and five inch pounds in a star pattern now I'm going to install my garand filter adapter for use with their deep pan and to do that I'm just going to install the scar lock seal followed by the spacer reuse two of the old long bolts now I'll use the two little screws that came with the kit and install this guy and again these little guys get torqued to thirty six inch pounds or three foot-pounds alright next I need to move the selector so that the bore that holds the parking shaft is exposed and now I can snake this through the back of the case and then install it and now I need to carefully install the ii clip to retain the parking rod and i got to make sure not to drop it in there or i'm gonna have a terrible day that would have sucked so bad if i drop that next i'm going to install these items loosely for now just to keep grit out of there so i have way too much n play with the input shaft and judging by the amount of n play that i do have i can add a hundred thousandths thrust washers to both the input shaft and the pump which leaves the question of why do i still have so much clearance where the that coming from I think I figured out why I'm having too much n play on this side of the transmission I think it's because I was assuming that the depth was set by the low reverse drum where it contacts the driving shell but I don't think that that's actually the case I think that this bottoms out inside the overdrive section first and that sets the depth on the intermediate which in turn sets the depth on everything so this time what I'm gonna do is bolt the overdrive to the empty main case and then assemble everything with not exactly sure which thrust washers yet I'll kind of guess on that but I'm gonna try it that way and I think that will probably fix the issue here so now I'm just transferring my selected spacer and my shims to this side and then my bearing here as well bearing needs to sit like that got my gasket here and now I can go ahead and lift my overdrive section onto the top feeding the parking rod through the parking pawl stuff and then making sure it sits flush and then I can bolt it together next I need to tighten the bolts on this flange the torque spec is 25 foot-pounds and the three lower ones along this edge they go into the case so I'm going to put just a little bit of RTV on the threads and before I do that and kind of seal this up I'm just verifying that the parking rod is working as it's supposed to and then I'm also going to go ahead and install the intermediate right now just to make sure that everything is kosher their intermediate assembly went in there no problem now I think I'm comfortable installing the three lower case bolts here with RTV and then like I said all of those get torqued to 25 foot-pounds now the intermediates going in hopefully the for the last time next I'm going to put the a 5000 Smitty mouse thrust washer in the bottom of the forward now I can load this as a unit this part can be pretty tricky I find that it's best to get the first couple of clutch discs aligned by getting these casts elations seated in the drive cell and then after you do that you can kind of get the inner clutch disks aligned to the outer clutch discs and then just to be absolutely sure that hardened washer sticks to the thrust washer and gets pulled out and then you know it's fully seated now that I got it loaded in there I'm gonna take a little bit ATF and wipe it around the band surface next I'm going to finesse the band in there hopefully it for the last time and then all of the retention stuff for it but I'm not going to adjust it yet until the pump is installed took a little finessing but I got the band and the strut and the wedge all in there and then I snugged everything down just so that all of this is held in place and now I'm gonna go ahead and put the pump in [Music] and now I have to adjust this band again and then check then play so I'm not quite happy with the end play there's like almost none and it needs at least a little bit so I'm actually gonna swap out the pump thrust washer to the 60,000 Swan and I think that'll be pretty pretty close to perfect all right I think I finally got a winning combination on the input shaft play here and it is the 85,000 Mickey Mouse thrust washer the 85,000 input shaft to direct thrust washer the plastic one and then the 65,000 plastic thrust washer on the backside of the pump and that is giving me my target and play so that is finally done now I can go ahead and tighten this guy down I found one source that claimed 25 foot-pounds but I think that's a bit excessive so I'm just gonna snug it down all right now I can install my new oil pan three usable gasket and then these allen head screws hold everything together and they all get torqued to 10 foot pounds in a star pattern drain plug gets torqued to 15 foot-pounds next I need a tape off all of the surfaces that I don't want painted you don't forget about this output shaft seal if you're putting this back into a second gen truck with any luck this thing will put power to the ground real nicely thanks for watching and please subscribe

Channel: Benjamin A.R.

Views: 2,714

Rating: 4.8730159 out of 5

Keywords: Torqueflite, A618, Overdrive, Built

Id: _szx_BothWc

Length: 54min 10sec (3250 seconds)

Published: Sat May 02 2020