3D Photo Scan Photogrammetry in Blender

so we're taking this turning it into 3D with me wait and see my number one most requested tutorial photogrammetry AKA 3D scanning AKA polycam coming at you right now what is photogrammetry photogrammetry in this case is taking a bunch of photos and there's software that can stitch all those photos together into a 3D object then that 3D object can be used in various 3D software to do a bunch of cool fun stuff why would I do this yes for a still image it's obviously faster to take one image than it is to take 80. however with a 3D model we have a lot more control we have control over scale we can multiply it we can do a bunch of crazy stuff that's super super difficult to do with a real traditional photo or traditional video I personally have had the opportunity of using this process with clients like under armor Urban Outfitters and a bunch more so it's allowed me to get way more creative with all my work including client work and personal work so in this video we'll get into all the parts of the process that means cameras lighting photographing stitching together the 3D models and cleaning up those 3D models I also have one big huge super super crucial tip that I haven't seen anywhere else on YouTube but you have to watch the whole video to see what it is I'll point it out when we get to it but before we dive in there are some shortcomings to this process and some objects that don't scan very well shiny objects glass objects metallic objects do not tend to scan very well a lot of people have issues with their scans the scans don't turn out well the scans fail some of that can be attributed to objects that just will never work there are some alternative processes that can do some of that stuff but for what we're talking about today some things don't work you just have to keep that in mind so I like to shoot inside in a controlled environment in a controlled environment with artificial light why consistency allows for control control allows for higher quality images and higher quality images end up in better quality scans why use a camera so most people are introduced to this process through apps on their phone like polycam which are awesome a lot of people also say that their scans don't work well or they're not high enough quality for professional work in my experience maybe it's the larger image sensor or expanded focal capabilities of an actual camera lens scans with an actual camera come out noticeably better than scans with just a phone I'm using a Canon R5 with a 50 millimeter lens less Distortion also helps with image quality that's why I went with a 50 millimeter instead of something wider or longer I'm using this profoto b1x which is nice because it's battery powered and we have to walk around this thing a bunch so it's cool to not have to kind of duck around wires or have that potential for tripping any flash will realistically work you could also go with continuous light but the strill gives us a little bit of that extra crisp so this is our lighting setup y overhead because we want flat even light if we're lighting from the side there's a point when we're walking around scanning in the 360 that our body is blocking the light from that object there's also a point where we're pointing our camera directly into the light and we're just seeing the shadow on the side of the object I know this is super involved not everybody has a studio and these light stands and all this equipment so another good way to do this as you've probably seen is just a cloudy day outside if the light is not soft and the light is not flat the environment from the lighting can become baked onto the object and what that means is that the light and Shadow it's almost like it's painted on so no matter how much light you put onto that object in your 3D environment it's still going to have that shadow from that hard light from that direct sun and we really don't want that obviously there are a million different ways to light this but this is a simple straightforward setup with one light so we just have one light bouncing into the ceiling to make the light nice and soft then we have this full stop silk to make the light even softer you could also just use something like a sheet anything that's going to diffuse the light you just need to be high enough that you can get a high angle when you're shooting I use saw horses as legs and I have a piece of white foam board on top the white foam board also serves as a bounce to continue reducing that amount of Shadow I like smaller foam board as well so we can move around the table really easily instead of a table that's larger and something that you have to reach in and reach across for this shoe we're putting it on a spray paint can to get it elevated and make sure that we can get a nice underneath angle [Music] so ideally you don't have a bunch of movement happening in your background I like to start first with a test shot to check the exposure I like to make sure on the histogram that the whites aren't clipping too much because that's information that you're not getting back I shoot raw and jpeg at the same time in case adjustments need to be made but if not the jpeg usually works really really well you want to shoot incrementally in a circle level with the product then repeat this movement as high as you can go [Music] and as low as you can go that's why it's on the can [Music] at the end you can also go in and get close-ups of all the little details so I like to get shots of the laces especially kind of an angle around here where you can see up underneath that bottom lace so you can tell that there's space in there that really helps when it's being stitched together for that lace to look like an individual lace and not like something that's kind of melted onto the shoe I end up with maybe 80 photos 100 photos per object I'm not like a take a million photos guy so now we have all the photos shot loading up the memory card into the computer so you can open up our browser and navigate to poly.com I'm going to log in all right so now it takes us to this area where we have our library of previous scans so I'm going to go to create capture create 3D model so I'm going to go to choose from file system and I'm going to select all the files that we shot I'm going to separate them by size so the jpegs and the rods aren't all together just upload one or the other picking out what we want and then pressing upload so once you press upload it tells you how many images you shot in this case it was 69 I like full detail raw detail is like a little bit too much for me use object net masking is helpful because when you don't select it it might give you like the entire room which is something that you don't need and kind of makes the cleanup process a little bit longer sequential wasn't even an option last year so I'm just going to leave off sequential for now but if it's sequential you can click sequential at this point you can go ahead and click upload and process so uploading might take a couple minutes processing might take a couple minutes all right so now we're processing sometimes the processing is really fast sometimes it's not I don't think that you have to stay on this window I think you can leave and if you need to go do something else you can check back on the polycam app and then just see if it's finished on the app so once we're done processing we get a little preview right here and you can just click on it and it loads up and you see hopefully you have a shoe on a can the can does end up in there that's what we have to clean up later so polycam does have some tools in here to crop and rotate this but in my experience when I just tested this yesterday the cropping and the rotation don't stick when you export it so I don't know what that is but there are tools where you can do it in here at this point if you crop and rotate and close the app then open it back up it'll not be cropped again so I'm not quite sure what that's about but you can inspect your model you can zoom in and see all that nice professional detail in there all the stitching is looking good I think the laces look really really great these are some almost 10 out of 10 laces so this is looking awesome I'm super excited to go and put this in a blender so what we want to do now is click on download then I like obj gltf gives us a lot of information again maybe too much information for what we need for this process fbx seems to not always load in with the materials obj will at least load in with a basic Shader with our rough color in there so I'm clicking on obj I'm clicking start download so your download should start allow and there we go we're close we're getting close we're getting close so I'm opening up the downloads folder and what it gives us is these Maps so this is the diffuse map or the color map that has all of our color this is our normal map and you don't really have to understand what that is this is an ambient occlusion map which I don't really use in blender this is a roughness map and then this poly.obj this is our object even in the OS 10 preview it looks good Okay cool so what we do from here now we're getting into the super fun stuff we're going to pop open blender so if you've never used blender before I'm going to try to explain enough of this that you should be able to get this thing cleaned up obviously you may end up with some challenges and you're going to need to learn more about how to use blender before you can do too much that's really interesting but I do have a bunch of other videos on my channel about doing stuff in blender with these models so you can check those out so I'm going to start out with a general project so we're going to file import we're going to obj up here there's also another obj down here so these will work with this obj but in the future when you're importing obj files if it doesn't work you can try this other one down here but we're importing obj we're navigating to wherever we saved our files which in my case was downloads and it's called poly probably poly2 let me just double check that yeah for me it's probably two and we're clicking import wavefront obj bam already there's our shoe it's pretty small you can press s for scale and scale this thing up and again right now we're in the unshaded viewport so you can see all the detail I'm just scrolling around with my Magic Mouse and if you're on Windows or you don't have a mouse like this you can click on these directions and kind of drag them and that's how you can navigate and spin around but as far as detail on the shoes if you click on this magnifying glass and move your mouse forward and back it'll zoom in and out if you click this hand this hand will kind of move you around in this viewport so you can already see the details looking pretty good without the color being in there the detail is looking really really cool so what we want to do first is rotate this thing and even it out makes it a lot easier for the cleanup so if you click on one of these axes if you just click X it'll just show it to you from the linear x-axis so x-axis I'm going to zoom out a little bit move around I'm going to click on our whole object if you press r will rotate and you can move your mouse around until it feels like it's straight so that's pretty good then I'm going to click on the y-axis same thing on the y-axis see if it feels straight press R rotate it this looks pretty good you can go to x again you rotate it one more time so now we are at least pretty straight we're looking pretty straight so I'm clicking on this x again looking at it straight on from the x-axis and I'm going to press tab to enter into edit mode our modes are up here object mode edit mode additional modes but you want to be in edit mode and this shows us each of the individual vertices that make up this object you also want to enter into your wireframe view so you can select all of the sides of this all the way through so that is this thing right here we're in wireframe mode so now if you click and drag it'll do a box select just kind of like your classic windows whatever just the same as on the desktop click and drag it'll create a box for you so if we start down here on our spray paint can try to get up relatively close we don't want to get up too close because then we start deleting part of the shoe but we want to get really really like as close as we kind of can without doing that and then we can rotate around and see how close we are we can go back to the regular shaded viewport so with the can selected you can press X for delete and it'll ask you what you want to delete so I'm going to pick vertices now we've deleted our vertices and we're really getting somewhere we're close so now we could even go into our material preview this circle right here it's looking pretty good it's looking pretty good looking pretty good already look at us okay so I'm actually going to save this too because blender can be crashy sometimes oh we're getting close this is looking spicy so when you're in our material preview this still does not necessarily have like our Environmental Lighting this is just kind of to see what the material is looking like so we're going to improve upon this the lighting is going to get better the model is going to get better but we're in this preview mode right now so we can tell what is part of the shoe and what is part of the can because when it's all gray it's pretty difficult to tell so we're going to click on our shoe we're going to press tab to get into edit mode um I don't know if I ever told you to press tab to get out of edit mode but you press tab to get out of edit mode when you're seeing all these dots all these vertices you're in edit mode you can press tab exit back out of edit mode but I'm pressing tab to enter into edit mode once again I'm going to zoom in with the magnifying glass and right now on box select so if you go over onto the left hand side select box click and hold on that you can go down to select Circle and then release your circle radius is up here so I'm going to go a little bit bigger it seems like the default is 25. and so now you can kind of just paint this in and get our remaining vertices you can hold shift paint in more and then X to delete the vertices you can see it's starting to get cleaner and cleaner select it and X to delete the vertices and then that's kind of this whole process so you want to be careful in here because it's really easy to accidentally select vertices on the wrong side and then you look back at it and realize that your shoe just has like random holes in it for no reason so you want to be a little bit careful here now this is by no means perfect but you get the idea each shoe is going to be different you could scan the same shoe 10 times in each shoe it's going to end up arranging all the vertices kind of differently so I'm pressing tab again to switch back to object mode zooming out this is our shoe it's looking pretty clean there's a little bit of stuff going on down there but usually shoes are on some kind of surface or kind of the good angle for a shoe is over here so as far as that's concerned it's looking pretty good now we're going to dive a little bit deeper into getting our shoe to look even better even more realistic up in these tabs we're going to go into the shading tab so we're going over to render engine and we're picking Cycles so I like to work with hdri environments and for those that don't know what that is an hdri environment basically what that is is it's a panorama and blender can't interpret that Panorama for the lighting where the lighting is coming from in that scene so I like natural light outdoor hdris so I'm going to load up one of those so we're in the shading tab you should be on the world view here you have background you have World output so we're clicking background and we're pressing Ctrl t and Ctrl T only works if you have node Wrangler enabled so if Ctrl T does not work you want to go to edit preferences and search you can type in node and node Wrangler is right here so you want to check that box if you do not have it checked so once you have it checked you can click on background Ctrl t it'll load in the rest of this and then you just have to click on open and load in your hdri so I can put a link to the hdri that I'm using in the description but you click on it open image and then when you click on this furthest circle on the right for rendered you should get something that looks like this all your controls are still the same depending on how fast your computer is as you move it around it may not update very fast but you should have something like this so we got our shoe just hovering on this nice Italian Beach now we already got a little bit into nodes with this hdri set up here now we're getting into the nodes for the shoe and I know people are afraid of nodes especially people that don't have a lot of 3D experience it's not that bad I'm going to tell you exactly what needs to happen here so on this tab where it says world you're going to go to object clicking on our shoe you see that we already have it it's it's a little bit set up we got some stuff connected so I want to get a little bit closer zooming in so you saw all those maps that we had right when we downloaded the model you can see there's only two connected here for some reason so one thing you can do is click on principled bsdf and press Ctrl shift t again navigate to where our maps are and you can click the maps so I'm clicking this color one holding Ctrl clicking the normal one and clicking the roughness one I'm leaving out this occlusion one then click principal texture setup and it loads those all in for you and as you can see it's still a little bit still looks a little bit off it looks almost pixely or like there's something really really weird happening right here so this is it this is one of my really really big huge tips that I have not seen anywhere else on YouTube for fixing this issue right here because you're probably still I mean this looks really good but that's not good enough if you're going to be delivering images to a client or trying to make some interesting motion this is not quite there so with the shoe selected clicking on the shoe we're navigating down to this data properties it's a little triangle we're going to normals we're clicking on that carrot thing and it has Auto smooth on I don't know what that is but when you uncheck Auto smooth it gets rid of that weird thing so we also have a bit of like a polygon type situation now I think overall it looks better but we have a bit of a it doesn't look as smooth so we're going to right click on it and click shade smooth now I think we're really cooking so I'm going to with the shoe selected press R press Z for the z-axis and then type in 180. so that our shoe is facing the light a little bit more and uh yeah now you can see the shoe with the shoes realistic details with some realistic lighting and obviously there's a bunch more stuff that we can do a bunch more that we can get into we can get creative and have tons of fun but this is the basics of my photogrammetry process and hopefully this is helpful for making some cool stuff and of course my channel has other videos showing you how to use objects like these in still images to make cool stuff I'll probably try to do some more animation type stuff in the future let me know what questions you have let me know if there's other stuff that you want to see specifically and thank you so much for watching

Channel: PopularImagination

Views: 20,254

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Id: u4nYp_sZ2vg

Length: 20min 52sec (1252 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 09 2023