3 Chefs Cook Pasta Carbonara 3 Ways: Traditional, Modern, Experimental | Bon Appétit

guanciale water I'm opening a new store what's it gonna be it's gonna be called Carlos guanciale water and more [Music] pasta carbonara is a traditional Italian dish from the Lazio region all about the union of pasta guanciale egg cheese black pepper and that's really it it's like one of those classic Italian ingenuity situation you know take a little bit make it a lot each one of us is gonna make a version of carbonara but whatever the form the dish has taken there needs to be something about it that is quirky spicy starchy chewy rich salty cheesy yoky creamy I think that's like the key to carbonara it's so elemental I just want to get that fork full that has a lot of eggy sauce a nubbin of guanciale an out dente noodle all in one bite working on traditional carbonara I'm gonna use the methods that any Italian cook would use and this dish really honestly you couldn't make it over a campfire I'm not getting out of blender and I'm not gonna do any like fancy other tricks with this I think if you just do it right the way you emulsify a sauce in the pan you're gonna be great I think modern carbonara sounds like it's gonna suck because it just sounds like somebody's taking something that was good and pure and they with it I felt really clear with my direction that I wanted to break some rules but not all the rules I wanted somebody to come along and be able to say that's carbonara well I like the idea of tackling experimental because it I feel like it kind of means whatever you want it to mean like it's just it can be nonsense it's an experiment it doesn't even have to be good does that work there's no sweetness that's gonna be my twist I'm going for a carbonara dessert but we'll see what happens when we throw sweetness in there [Music] I've got some dry pasta here you should definitely make carbonara with dried pasta the advantage of using dried pasta and I think why this dish would have originated this way is because we're a lot of fresh pastas are revered because they're so delicate material a dried pasta has like that really nice tile dente to it felts really incumbent on the Carla to use dried pasta that feels 100% traditional I think modern carbonara opened up the window for us to be able to use a fresh pasta and that means trying a couple different methods so I've got one dough that's a combination of semolina flour which is kind of like a coarser grind from like a very hard wheat this dough is all AP flour it's much softer see how easy it is to dent as opposed to this one much firmer so I have a feeling this is gonna be the kind of toothsome miss that we want here in order to be considered carbonara you need to have a chewy texture in there the word you know al dente really leaps to mind because all of those flavors that I mentioned you know richness cheesiness if that is just presented devoid of texture all you're gonna have is like a big bowl of mush I think we're just gonna cook off like a little piece just a little kind of taster and just see what happens the all-purpose flour is just so flavorless and bland whereas the semolina has just more of that like nutty kind of character to it Carla taste this is it a noodle hmm it was only in there for a minute so dente so aldente that's good good rare for a fresh possum I love making carbonara with spaghetti I also love making carbonara with like a fat tube like rigatoni these are Rigate which means they have ridges in them so the sauce will cling on the outside but they new got the tubes for the little pieces of guanciale to get inside which I also love traditionally the pasta should be cooked in salted boiling water salty all right hey Siri set timer for seven minutes so traditional carbon alright there's pasta and you cook it and you eat it like pasta I want my pasta to do something else in this dish I'm gonna use spaghetti I'm gonna boil the pasta to death so it's gonna like expand all the cell walls little salt I don't want to go crazy like if I was making pasta because this is going to be a dessert no matter what anyone says to me I'm gonna dehydrate that I'm gonna dehydrate pasta right now will you help me yes I want them to be know do your rack this is my rack okay I thought we were on it now I got my own you got your oven rack come over here I'm hoping to get like a funnel cake okay you know express yourself I feel like yours has more chaos going on and more rage like I'm going straight no curves here no soft edges put all these sharp edges you want to head over to the Beehive let's go is that it I mean we could hit this fan son that's not oh yeah you think all right okay I think some of the best dishes we do at Glen Appetit are the ones where we kind of take an idea that we've seen out in the world and they kind of repurpose it you know and like make it fit within like our world here so like an egg yolk ravioli is something that has been out in the world for quite some time but to take that idea of like an egg yolk filled pasta and carbonara it if you will and bring in all those other flavors that we kind of talked about felt like a little bit of a no-brainer to me okay so this is the pasta that we cooked to death and now we've dehydrated if you remember when it went in there it was really thick and like fat and it's like shriveled up a bit I want to deep fry it and then what happens is because you've already like loosened up those starch cell walls when you fry it it'll pop you know how popcorn has a little bit of moisture in it and when you heat it up that moisture turns to steam and turns it inside out so basically that's the same thing we want to happen here we want this to be 90% dry and then that little bit of moisture in there when it hits the oil it's going to steam in the whole thing that's so cool there we go so I want it to be really crunchy and really light like a pasta chicharrón the opposite of what the pasta would be like in a traditional carbonara yes why are they still puffy like that so I think that it's maybe the starch like going into a retrogradation retrogradation you know it like what do you hydrogen start so then you cool it no I'm kind of stiffen it up even further don't I believe you yeah I think that's what's going on I say it's very pleasing this is guanciale it's cured pork jowl it's like demonstrate on my own jowl it's a really fatty very delicious very tender part of the animal similar to bacon but this isn't smoked so you don't get that like smokiness from bacon instead you get a funkiness from that age when I'm thinking about the guanciale I have to also think about pancetta which is a little bit easier to get has a similar sort of meaty fatty component it doesn't have the spices that are put on to Vaughn chale it is also a little less funky so I do want to kind of see those side by side and make a decision about whether I'm a pinch at a person or a gland charlie girl they're a little bit meteor then the pancetta they're coming up more like little nuggets these are so different in texture this is guanciale it's super like nuggety and crunchy and bubbly and has like a lot of surface texture and the pancetta is just more smooth I just like everything about the guanciale better it just feel more like hunky and satisfying with regard to the pork the game plan is kind of gonna be that I'm gonna make this really concentrated broth with pork hock I'm then gonna pick the meat from the pork hock put it back into the liquid and then solidify it in a very even layer all right already done I thought I was being clever with the parchment but instead I have some of my liquid running under the parchment can you see the offending corner there nobody's perfect so this is gonna set so firmly I'm not gonna be able to redistribute any of this so I just want to make sure there's a good bit of we're good not gonna mess with it anymore you know the smoked pork hock it's not that dissimilar from a cured pork product because it has been kind of salted and smoked it's just everything's just kind of tweaked and played with a little bit so typically the guanciale is used more as like a flavor component than a protein in the dish so you use this pretty relatively small amount usually cut up into small pieces and then you cook that in your skillet and that kind of is your base the fats gonna render out of it and you're gonna use that to like cook everything else it's really important to try to buy it in one piece so that you can cut to the like nice fat lard own that I would want it to be in and really to resist the urge to cook it all the way to crunchy or crispy what I'm going for it in the end is still a pretty chewy a little bit juicy with fat and springy as opposed to having like hard baked obits in the bottom of the possible I definitely have the simplest thing going on here and I'm stressed about time so if nothing was happening to Sola not a competition are you guys making fun of me no I'm just like making more making fun of myself I can't even do one thing and you're doing seven none of it's gonna be good Karla I am gonna still cut my long hallway up into little pieces and render it out but I'm gonna take it all the way and get it super crispy I'm basically making guanciale bacon bits and then I want to dip my little crispy spaghetti funnel cake thing in some caramel dip it in the crispy guanciale bits and hopefully it'll all stick and I'd like a little salty funky bite to everything don't you want like the guanciale to be even finer so you get like more even like dispersal and like better claim that's probably a good idea but at this point can you do it because I have to be in the care thank you like real quick yeah unforeseen consequence is it usable yeah well it's getting a little bit sticky that's right let's just I don't know I mean I'm totally open to whatever you want I still have plenty of like pieces in there it was just starting to get that kind of paste eNOS so I stopped it yeah just in case you want to keep going with like oh let me try to sprinkle this yeah let me try the sprinkle thing and all right if that doesn't work I'll stir it in all right I should have done a hand shot for that sabotage gonna add a little of this once and this is getting very hot I'm gonna just try one out see what happens dunk no no it's so ugly no good no good well I don't know maybe imagine having like a lot of those it might be cute maybe we're okay I'm gonna push forward it actually tastes pretty good so I'm gonna add a little baking soda it aerates the caramel a little bit so you get a lighter crunch when you bite into it pull it out get a little Guanche too much lunch shake it off how many of these do I need to make so I had the shredded bits of pork hock inside the raviolo oh yeah pleasing but on the outside I wanted to just maintain a fairly traditionally inspired sauce so I had rendered guanciale and honestly like I'll be looking over Carla's shoulder a little bit just in terms of seeing how she's constructing the very traditional as far as I know the guanciale is just gonna be cut into some kind of shape crisped up and then added back into the dish like later at the end to be part of that final composition the egg is the foundation for the sauce the heart and soul of carbonara in traditional carbonara you have some combination of whole egg and yolk they are a total starring player in this dish and I think you know especially in this kind of case like seeking out quality like really goes a long way those pastured eggs because the the chickens have a broader diet and they're pecking around and getting different kinds of stuff those yolks tend to be a very beautiful rich color and are probably just closer to the traditional chicken egg which would have been these like very happy chickens pecking all around in Italy you really want to lean on the ability of the yolk to provide body richness you know texture glossiness to your sauce in my kind of modern take on carbonara I felt really clear that I wanted to create a very traditionally based sauce but I also wanted the inclusion of just straight-up egg yolk inside my raviolo itself it's like suddenly it seems like a real bad idea you know [Music] well it's staying still and that's something you don't want any errant moisture inside that raviolo because it's gonna prevent you from getting a good seal that's like not terrible sometimes not terrible is great and I'm gonna have to determine how to shape the raviolo is it better to go all in on one big raviolo the kind of fills a plate is it better to do several small ones who I think the words you're looking for are not bad I don't know that you need three of these on a place like maybe you're getting one may be again one there is a raviolo on the menu with egg yolk and Khaleesi social club filler and is like is is like it's square it's not circles yeah we're edge and it kind of like almost drapes off the side of the plate a little bit it's big if this with the porky stuff mm-hmm I might do one big sport motto oh that's what I thought you're gonna do I don't know so you're not gonna like cut it out no yeah I'm into that you get more of that I wonder you better yoke to filling ratio yeah but that way you have extra pasta enjoy the rest of it yeah it's not like a crazy amount more but at least like now I'm feeling a little bit more bullish about this kind of shaping it how I want that's like real life right there cool the thing holding my whole dish together is gonna be this little base of rich egg yolk ice cream that is going to be like the core the heart the sauce so I'm gonna blend some yolks into here a lot of yolks make sure I have a lot of this deep yolk richness and flavor in mine and I think that by turning the yolks into an ice cream like this perfect vehicle so cheese in carbonara I believe it can be parm I believe it can be pecorino maybe it can be both this is pecorino cheese I love pecorino some people don't between you and me okay like pecorino it it's like a hammer literally like it grabs your tastebuds like a you know like werewolf in the night and like doesn't let go I think it is very delicious it can be a little bit funky it can go a little bit sour it can be just like a little bit overwhelming so combining it with something that's like a little bit sweeter and nuttier like parmesan really totally works so I have a quarter cup each of parliament Edgar you know and I can tell you can tell by the color see how much more yellow the parm is I like pecorino crispy not a fan Chris Chris has some may there's nothing weird about not liking bananas or peanut butter I opted to use Parmesan I just find the flavor is better these kinds of cheeses are like really sturdy and firm and dry and that like dryness is gonna translate well to like it nicely emulsified sauce in a bowl I want to combine my egg yolks whatever whole like I'm doing with the grated cheese cheese needs to go into the sauce it needs to melt into the sauce it needs to emulsify into the sauce it needs to be part of what's adding richness body flavor you know the sauce for my raviolo ultimately was like a pretty traditional carbonara sauce but with the addition of garlic you're staying firm on know garlic yeah not tradish get out of here I really like what Carla has going on so far her sauce has a wonderful texture to it I'm thinking of kind of taking that idea but rounding it out a little bit of butter a little bit of garlic for a little bit of extra depth I personally just love the addition of garlic in my carbonara it brings a little bit of sweetness and extra kind of earthy funkiness of its own it really plays well with the other flavors there but not traditional so for my cheese component the cheese is the one thing that I feel like isn't gonna work with the dessert I want to use it very subtly so traditionally the Parma pecorino is is thrown into the sauce and like you toss your pasta through with the cheese and it melts it emulsifies and which is everything so I feel like by putting my cheese flavor into my yolk ice cream which is kind of like the sauce of my dish is kind of the same vibe so I'm I want to use the cheese rinds to steep in the milk for my ice cream for just like a little bit of saltiness and a little bit of that cheesy folks I've never had parmesan ice cream and I don't know if anyone should we're gonna find out together I don't want too much of it to be honest because I think it'll just be weird I really love this ice cream machine then I want one hold up are you not trying to change that to the non-musical like no whoa shut it down shut it did enjoy looking really thick and creamy and so yoki I think it's done yeah you get yolks on the palate right away and then it finishes harm which is kind of funny it's almost like a little mean trick I don't know so this is an egg yolk and parmesan ice cream it's not a milkshake Wow we good well bad well weird well I'm kind of into it is getting a spaghetti and guanciale funnel cake on top yogurt no one black pepper really one of my favorite spices black pepper is one of those spices that I think is so easy to overlook I think we're so used to kind of like Oh a little sprinkle of black pepper on my salad you know but really kind of incorporating it into a dish like in a deliberate way it's capable of bringing so much flavor you can't really make carbonara without black pepper it is an integral part of the dish it's gonna add a little bit of brightness it's like a little high note that's gonna cut the richness that just the same way acid does like when you're finishing something with a little squeeze of lemon juice or vinegar the pepper is gonna do that for us you need that little bit of spiciness to cut through all the other richness is going on okay so now I'm going to toast the pepper they're dancing oh when you pay attention to what's happening to the food you notice these things that intruders following instructions you wouldn't even notice brine them up a little bit traditionally or the way that I have learned to make carbonara you would add the black pepper to the egg and cheese mixture that goes into the sauce black pepper I certainly incorporated it into my sauce I want to toast or bloom my hoarsely ground black pepper in hot fat because there's flavors that are fat soluble and they're flavors that are water soluble pepper can kind of swing both ways I would say that like what you extract in the hot fat is a little bit sharper it's a little bit more keyed up and I will add once the pasta is almost done some of the pasta water into that egg and cheese mixture just to like loosen it up warm it up a little bit so loosening with a little bit of water is going to help keep this emulsion alive I mean I think it's good you know the pasta water is a vital ingredient to like any pasta dish but especially a dish like this because there's no like cream it's not a tomato base the pasta water is the heart of the dish I need some pasta water did I just dump it all out so that's the number one thing not to do can I have some of your pasta water yeah it's really good that everyone's got pasta going so I really want the pasta water to be a focus in my experimental dish by turning it into like a Ana swimmer or foam to like kind of coat the whole thing I'm gonna enrich my pasta water with a splash of cream and then send it with some gelatin oh I don't want the espuma to be too sweet but I am gonna add a little bit of sugar and then I'm gonna put my pepper in my pasta water foam and that's a great way to kind of get the pepperiness all over everything but I want it to be in a more subtle way I don't want like whole cracked black pepper corns in my dessert but I want like the essence of black pepper in in my phone you know just barely hit you in the nose I'm gonna pour it into this this is a little charger hoo hoo it bit tough so it gets really nice and fluffy and thick just like whipped cream and then I'm going to pop it in an ISI container and charge it with some what's it called nitrogen science there's a little pin here so when I screw this on here it Pierce's it and then this gas gets injected into here and Eric's the whole thing and I'm gonna chill this okay carbonara is one of those dishes that I like to say asses in chairs like when the pastas in the water get your ass in a chair cuz the second that's done it's coming to you got rigatoni I got guanciale fat water which the name of my new scent when the pasta goes into the pan with the guanciale fat and I add the egg and the cheese mixture then there's the tossing and the stirring and the emulsifying that's happening in the pan I mean the key thing about when you're building the sauce in the pan is there has to be some residual heat if the egg doesn't get cooked at all it's gonna be really thin and it's gonna just taste kind of raw if you heat it up too much or too quickly it's gonna turn into scrambled egg so that moment that's actually like a pretty active cooking moment oh my god oh okay oh my god there's so many guanciale tunnels the major advantage with the rigatoni is the guanciale tunnel that I'm very attracted to I like to hold back some of the cheese after I've made the pan sauce just to go fresh afresh on top oh Lord I'm quite pleased ravioli just went in two minutes I might pull it a few seconds before gonna dump it right into our sauce here dunk just gonna let it kind of coat hang out in there just briefly and then we're gonna take it right to the plate all right okay so we can plate one up I was gonna quenelle this but this is super hard and this isn't very frozen so it kind of throws off my plating completely can you not use this and then just cut to perfectly plate a dish no is that not how it works what happened here oh did it just is it from it's sitting out at room temperature right now wow it's really easy to go through an emotional and down style huh what you live for isn't it you're just waiting so you're setting me up Sullivan nothing can go wrong she's quinella ng oh that was it's fine how it sunk in it was beautiful little dippy dippy t dude woo take it away it's called make it a hippo okay classic dish I know which one I'm going for because I see the lardo in the end it's texture flavor real sharp pop of black pepper porky and then the egg is like kind of everything just like kind of in every crevice like coating your mouth and then the cheese is like coming like you're seasoning we have a real smack at a face classic really thick honestly one has been in carbonite it's really good you know pine sap for a little bit while everybody messed around mainly sola um shot look at the beautiful I love the texture I know what I did because I just kept that raw live edge of the pasta yeah came through the sheeter yeah I just kind of like celebrate just at all no no I clearly like Karen here but I really keep something in more of its organic natural form yeah you know like why does it have to be so we should hopefully still have some fluid fluidity here oh wow it's so oh my god wow that's one of those eggs that has the yolk that's just like amazing that barely looks real I love that it's like a very Mont a modern approach in it you're nodding to the rest thickness of the original in all of those sort of details but there's like a refinement in all of the technique and then messing with the sauce like you said to like add flavors so that it's not just what it is yeah you know where it's coming from again the carbonara vibe but it tastes nothing like Carlos carbonara it's like yeah I feel like I'm getting a lot more richness from that and gelatinous ham hock yeah I really put the garlic but I would now if I made carbon are at home I would add garlic to it I was more worried about the garlic than the ham hock really yeah and I really like the garlic in it I love that so good wicked wicked wicked awesome dessert carbonara what you've always wanted all right get in there it's melting we'll check her out of all look at this thing like Christmas ravioli Center huh it's so weird I really it does taste like carbon it really does taste like carbonara but it also tastes like dessert uh-huh that yolk flavor is so it's so weird I appreciate all your support it was really an emotional journey I love the yolk ice cream I mean you could just serve that the oak ice cream and honestly like the salted pasta water foam like the flavor of that yeah those are my favorite things for me you like the pasta on her phone yeah no it was mostly making that to troll you know the flavor really carries the thought yeah like ha saltiness but you also get that like the starch that's like the starch it was from my pasta water it was your pasta water the caramel is the only thing where I'm just like that that tilts it into the place of like it's it's not carbonara anymore yeah you know I understand like how its functioning in there and like why it makes sense but but like that flavor starts to like shriek and like you know kind of get loud against some of the other ones there's a lot of really good is how many more hours that's it I just need three more hours invention with 17 elements and one day to think about it I think is pretty good and first of come off reading as anything like carbonara I think it's pretty rad I think I'm on but you know you can break out of traditional Wiggles alright yeah you learned that you could [Laughter] [Music] all right we're gonna break for coffee [Music] [Applause] [Music] Wow yeah like jewel-tone berry yes just like staying yeah

Channel: Bon Appétit

Views: 3,621,265

Rating: 4.9298787 out of 5

Keywords: 3 chefs same dish, carbonara, pasta carbonara, carbonara recipe, make carbonara, making carbonara, how to carbonara, how to make carbonara, chris makes carbonara, carla makes carbonara, sohla makes carbonara, carbonara bon appetit, pasta carbonara bon appetit, experimental carbonara, traditional carbonara, modern carbonara, chris morocco, carla lalli music, sohla el-waylly, carla bon appetit, chris bon appetit, sohla bon appetit, chris carbonara, food, bon appetit

Id: -7i9dTJgsdI

Length: 32min 32sec (1952 seconds)

Published: Thu Apr 16 2020

Reddit Comments

[u/Tibbox]

new series! ill create a flair once they give this series an official title

[u/nidojoker]

Sohla is so incredibly awesome.

[u/gendry2402]

Hunzi was precious in this

[u/catplanetcatplanet]

I love the editing and style of this! The fancy white board Venn diagram! The spinning lazy Susan showing the transitions. I love it. I love this combination of chefs. I looove it and I’m tickled that Sohla gets a spot. I feel these three are a power trio when it comes to technique and skill.

Edit: they’re so charming and cute together! Oh my god! The final tasting! When they “ooh” and “ahh” Sohla’s plating!! Seeing the crew! AHH!!!

[u/fnord_happy]

So watery, and yet there's a smack of ham to it....

[u/Johnny12Guitars]

It won't be BA without Delaney showing up when there's food being served

[u/UtterlyConfused93]

They are killing it with their pre-recorded content. I love the mix of at home videos and regular and familiar test kitchen videos.

[u/MelonDusk]

Sohla is incredibly talented. I hope we get to see more of her!

[u/nptaylor]

If anyone didn't stay for the ending (after the bon appetit card) I highly recommend it