1952 Ferguson TEA 20 Tractor Restoration Part 2

now just remove the steering wheel because there was a lot of movement well you can see that now but it's probably a good quarter of an inch of movement now I thought that perhaps the bearing collapsed but when I look at it and peel this soil back a bit the actual center of the bearing is not seating in me in the bearing cage itself as as if this needs to these locking must need to screw down and engage it more so I'll just pull this apart and see whether in fact that is the case whether it's an adjustment or whether it my need to replace the bearing this is actually quite an easy fix the lock nut or so even a nut Beach holds the the center of the bearing in place wasn't all the way down and what appears to be the case is that the lock nut locks onto the top of it it wasn't actually locked on tight enough so what was happening is that both the lock nut and the nut holding the barre were able to turn on the shaft so as the wheel was turned it's gradually undid itself and allowing the bearing to come loose so if I'll regress the bearing here and I'll then tighten it down and now it should be fine the bearing rocks okay and there'll be no movement in the shaft which is good so so is he pulling the whole thing apart and replacing the bearings which is what I was going to do originally I've just finished packing the top bearing with Chris and put the nuts back on and locked it up it shouldn't come undone now so that's when it should fix so I won't actually pull the steering column out and it should be fine everything seems to be working okay so that seems to be quite finished as a as a simple job the what I'm actually going to do now is to start to remove all our linkages and having talked to the previous owner again he said the hydraulics are working but at the top end of the lift it's not operating as it did years ago so he suggested that maybe it's a good idea to have a look at the condition of the of the seals of whatever's in the in the hydraulic setup me said he he'd never done it in all his ownership so what I'm going to do is to actually pull the top off pull the pump out and assess its condition and I'll work from there so this stage I'll start to pull all the linkages off remove the PTO and then start to pull the pump out and and see what condition it's in and see what I actually may need to just to improve its operation now why I wasn't intending to do this fit and this tractor certainly won't be used for plowing but I intended to use the hydraulic lift so I'll actually want to make sure it's working 100% I was close to 100% as of camber so instead of going to all the effort of putting and cleaning it all up painting it up putting it all back together and then saying some later stage all I really should have pulled that out and had a look at it so I'll do it now it's a lot easier while it's in this condition I'll pull the brake drum on this side of the vehicle apart just to look at this condition found a number of problems I mean it's filthy inside that's all going to be cleaned up a little bit of a whip from the axle not too sure they're all bother replacing the the seal it's a quite a long involved process to do that I'll just look at the condition of the shoes if they're all right for the moment I might just put it back together but there are other problems the he the piece that the that operates the levers is actually was all loose this was all flopping around in here and the reason for it is that we can just see the remains of a spline on on this piece it's actually completely worn off and flopped out inside the the plate that it's meant to be secured to so all this was loose and flopping around that's one problem I've got to fix that the other problem is that at the end here the Worthy the brake pedal gas brake pedal goes on there the this is meant to be moving inside the housing well at the moment it's not it's not completely completely jammed but it it really just doesn't doesn't operate the way it should so I've actually got a pool at a part clean it out reuse it so it operates properly so that's a problem as well but I'll I'll clean everything up and see what the condition of the shoes are and you know this cleans up in here and then make an assessment I'll have to repair this maybe I can buy a new one but I'll probably look at how I might repair that and actually fix that the plate so it actually doesn't flop around and so I can actually tighten it up that'll mean that the brake shoes are operating properly and they obviously haven't been operating properly the way it's been moving around I've now removed both brake drums and then of a little bit the condition of the of the brakes once again these bolts securing the the pivot point for the shoes were loose which obviously affects the way the brakes work so I'll have to make sure there type when I put them back in the shoes on this side we're actually partly broken so I'll have to give new brake shoes there wasn't much oil on this side a little bit weeping as I said I'm not gonna bother changing the the oil cells what I've found is that on the inside of the drum this drum here you can see is actually a an oil catch ring around here so any oil that drips down from a leaking axle drops into that that plate and on the other side there are weep holes now I've actually cleaned those out they are all blocked so oil can actually escape to the outside of the drum rather than staying inside so the leak isn't bad so this stage I I'm not intending to remove the the axle seals one problem I have found which is you can see around this side is the locating point for the three point linkage now it's loose and according to the workshop manual it's actually held on by bolt inside the the housing now oil is leaking out of that now at this stage all after I remove the pump I'll see whether I can actually access it without taking the whole banjo off but I can't leave it like that because oil is coming out now I know that the PTO was supposedly leaking through the seal now I've taken that off but whether well certainly that could have been leaking but the leak from me this point over here was running down under the under the differential so that's got to be fixed otherwise I'm just call those oil I know I said I wasn't going to pull the tractor completely apart and rebuild it and so this is a little bit perhaps unexpected but I did mention that the tractor was the rear axle was leaking and it was around the 3-point linkage mount on the housing now for some reason it's come loose the it's just loose enough to move around and loose enough for oil to come out and the only way to tighten it up is the pool and the whole axle out and the on the side of the different so we've got to do that and having done that I'll take the opportunity of getting in there and cleaning some of the sludge out you can see some sludge I've cleaned up some out through the power take-off hole and I guess you know it was necessary to death I could have ignored it but oil would have continued to leak and be quite Messier and apart from that when you pull everything apart you can see this this is the top of the pump assembly the this sludge there's all sorts of muck in there which really needs to be cleaned out now who knows how long that's been together or whether it's ever been cleaned but certainly it's all going to be cleaned up now everything seems a right on the axle so and the main bearing on the dip so I'm not worried about that certainly not going to pull that out I was reluctant to pull this off but I'll tighten that up next and then clean everything up ready to put it all all back together you

Channel: Denis's DIY Vehicle Restoration

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Id: KmvQfZWZ64s

Length: 12min 35sec (755 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 19 2017