1000 Year Old Makeup… just a glimpse into my EPIC Vintage Makeup Collection!

hi everyone today i'm at the front of my studio and i thought instead of doing a makeup look or a tutorial i would talk through a few more things in my vintage makeup collection i have done videos in the past about it um i think i did my first one about 10 years ago called something like vintage makeup i love it at the time there was definitely a big thing for collecting powder compacts and perfume bottles but the collection of old lipsticks old blush old mascaras and things like that was a little bit niche so i was quite worried when i put my first video up that everyone just think i was a total weirdo but luckily no one thought that and people were very interested as interested as i am so since then i've dropped a few pieces in here and there but i think my collection is just so huge there are probably hundreds and hundreds if not a thousand pieces that i thought any video i make is going to be five hours long but what i've done today is i've just chosen about 50 pieces that i personally think are very interesting and i thought i'd just talk you through those today so i'm going to start by putting on my gloves i'm going to start with my oldest piece and this is a powder compact that is over a thousand years old and this is from the chinese northern song dynasty era and the pot itself is very typical of the time i love the celadon glaze which gives it this wonderful bluey green color and inside it has remnants of white lead pigment and that would have been used as a face powder a very toxic face powder but a face powder nonetheless so jumping forward a bit this is around 1890 i've always been interested in old theatrical brands because they were really the bridge between one of the bridges between makeup becoming commercialized and becoming very acceptable amongst the general public the brands like stein and leishner were mainly just used by actors and although no one else would be caught dead or particularly if you're [Music] a gentile from a gentile family the idea that you would wear makeup would be very much frowned upon a lot of these theatrical brands were really at the forefront of that commercialization i love this tin which is from about 1890 of stein face powder and this is a big tin of loose powder which would have sat in a theater makeup department because powder was one of the few cosmetic items that was acceptable it's interesting how they've marketed this for the stage but have also written on the tin for the boudoir as well so you can see this transition from the theater into people's homes albeit in a quite racy one leishner i love love love lightner products they were definitely only for theatricals but they began to be purchased by women that maybe wanted to buy makeup and use it sort of covertly and they made incredible blushes look at this look at this color it's so vivid pink so beautiful jumping forward a little bit to around 1900 this is one of my favorite pieces i've mentioned it before it's made by potter and moore who are a very big toiletry company during the victorian era they specialized in making soaps and face powders and definitely not color cosmetics but all of those sort of nice scented waters and toilet waters and things like that very often with lavender in which was very very popular at the time now this is a little pot of powder but whoever owned this must have decided to customize it with a ceramic rose which just makes it so much more personal and special it still has the powder in it still smells of lavender quite strongly and i just think it's for me it's what fascinates me about vintage makeup that it's really a bridge into the past it really is connecting with somebody's life you know somebody made this rose put it on top sat it on their dressing table and it must have given so much pleasure and i just think it's it's just a really unique piece something that's really fun is this little pot of velvet moosh and these are face patches so made of velvet moosh were really popular in the 18th century and they were often made of all different fabrics leather and taffeta and velvet in different shapes and they would signify different things depending on where you placed your patches they were also used back then to in the 18th century to cover blemishes and spots and smallpox scars it was strange but they suddenly came back in fashion around the turn of the century until sort of 1920. they were just an affectation they were very much picked up by aristocrats that wanted to be flamboyant and and wear them to go out in the evening and very much so for fantasy dress parties as well so that's more like a trend item i love all of these blush you've seen the sort of beginning of the commercialization of makeup here so this is around 1910 1911 1914 it was still frowned upon definitely to wear makeup then but these are made by local chemists and toiletry companies so they're obviously aiming them at the general public but they still would have been something that you maybe would have sent away for if you look in very early vogues you'll see in the back pages there are little messages saying pink cheeks send us a stamped address envelope and we will return your blush in a brown envelope so you can imagine you know you didn't want to be seen to be wearing blush or indeed to be going into a shop and openly asking for it so this is one from new york and this company was called oxen and they started around 1880 and this blush i believe is from about 1910 really beautiful rosy pink color again this is around 1914 the venus rouge from denver absolutely loved this pot it inspired the packaging for my rings that i sell and as did the puff i i managed to recreate this puff because i just love it so much this has lost its color it looks like a pale lavender there's no way back then it would have been made that color because they didn't have the the pigments to make something that subtle it would have been probably a lot brighter but it has faded and then here's a french version i can't open this it has a beautiful puffin but the powder will go everywhere so i really like these i think it's just their ordinariness that i like i'm going to go on to mascara now and 1916 1917 i'm going to start with this which is more of a eyelash treatment so a bit like i've been using new lash this would have been the new lash of its day and i just love the instructions on the back and i'm going to have to put find my glasses because the writing is tiny um so this is a company called eyelash line so it's a little bit like um the maybelline the names are quite similar so this was when retiring bathe the eyelids in warm water for about 10 minutes can you imagine that's a long nighttime routine using a soft cloth or sponge and then dry thoroughly and apply eyelash line to the edges of the eyelids with the fingertip rub and massage the eyelids gently at the same time and this was 50 cents so moving on from the eyelash treatment i'm going to go on to mascara actual mascara this is cake mascara and this is the maybelline one which launched in 1917 and exactly the same year rimmel launched his cake mascara so it's debatable as to who launched it first certainly rimmel had been already in the game for quite a long time in 1860 he had launched his mascara which was mainly used by actors and also gentlemen to sort of touch up their moustaches and touch up their sideburns and their gray and things like that so he was already in the mascara again but maybe the first commercial one was maybelline we will never really know what i love about this is how tiny it is i mean it's almost like you had to have very small hands if you wanted to do a good job of your mascara you can see how dinky that is the brush is absolutely tiny the idea is that you spit onto the cake and then you would rub on there and then apply it to your eyelashes coming into the 1920s now and the makeup industry is really hotting up there is so much interest in makeup because of hollywood and because of the silent movies and all of the fanzines for the movies were very much encouraging get the looks get the hairstyle get the makeup and for the first time people like max factor are selling what would have been originally make up for theater and make up for use in movies they're starting to sell to the general public and there is a real acceptance of it it happens a little bit earlier in the states than it did in the uk although i think people were definitely wearing makeup but when i went through all of the vogues and went through all of the archives i noticed that it wasn't until 1924 that there's an article saying that makeup is okay to use for for regular people but it's happening quite a bit earlier in the state so you're seeing lots of incredible pieces coming out i think my all-time favorite maybelline product is this one from the 1920s and they made two eyeshadows like this the colors are incredible i hope i can get the lid off yet look at that there's a blue and a green i mean it's insane the color doesn't smell too bad at all and it's just so dinky everything was tiny because all of the advertising is about being dainty and being very cute and everything's sort of miniaturized almost this is one of the earliest max factor this is a lip treatment or a lip gloss really so this would he would have sold this out of one of his first shops he was still selling theatrical makeup so he's actually still selling the stein powder and all the lightness stuff but he was also really starting to work as the chemist with a lot of the movie makeup artists the westmore's particularly and creating makeup for movies but regular women wanted to get that look so something like this would have been an easy way to sort of get the look of your favorite actress there's lots of really beautiful packaging around this time this was actually made in warsaw i think i was initially attracted to it because of the decorative aesthetic which is so typical of the period so i'm going to skip a few pieces now because i'm aware that this is going to be quite a long video i'm going to jump to this this is a beautiful piece so rare from the 1920s i've only ever seen one and this is it this was made by dunhill and dunhill uh men's tailors were very fashionable around this era and fashionable men that would buy suits there and tailoring would also buy their silver lighters and if you whipped out a silver dunhill lighter it was a very cool thing to do and light your cigarette and then for their very top clients they made a limited edition version of the lighter that looks like a lighter but it's actually a makeup compendium so it's got everything you need for a night out it's got a face powder in the front it's got a black kohl pencil a beautiful kohl pencil it's never been used look at that amazing um a bottle of perfume blush and red lipstick that's really really cool so moving on to the 1930s and this is a really nice period of lipstick glamour because lipstick is now available everywhere you can buy it cheaply you don't have to you can walk into a store you can walk into say woolworths and just buy it and it's just hanging there and this is a really nice example of a lipstick this is the woodbury lipstick and it says 10 cents so it was a dime to go into woolworths pick this off the shelf and just buy it there was no shame in wearing lipstick anymore a beautiful lipstick from this era probably my favorite art deco lipstick is this helena rubenstein one it just has the most incredible mechanism and it's a really beautiful example of art deco design it has a amazing red lipstick inside love that this is a jolly little art deco piece beautiful design it's a blush sample by tangi who were a huge huge cosmetic brand at the time and inside you can see the puff and the surprisingly bright blush they also made these really cute little samples these were just puffs in a little bag and it says on it this sample consists of a felt disc sufficiently impregnated with the rouge to demonstrate its marvelous color effects something that's very rare and i'm really lucky to have is this westmore little compact and this was a gift to all the celebrities the night that the house of westmore opened i won't go into the house of westmore but i wrote about them extensively in my book face paint and they were really the kind of kings of hollywood makeup and i was given this by christiana who's the great granddaughter of one of the original makeup artists the original westmore brothers this represents a real turning point for the brothers because it signifies them moving from makeup artists into having their own consumer and salon makeup line so that's an incredible piece a piece that i really love are these items stripped eyelashes from the 1930s i love the graphics i love the illustration it looks very 1930s but the thing that i love most is how nicely these have been cared for and these eyelashes have obviously been worn so many times and taken off carefully and preserved the glue's empty but the glue's been kept in the box and i just think about this girl this person that bought this they weren't that expensive but this is for them this was glamour this was something which was really treasured this was like a dream to have these eyelashes and to wear these eyelashes and i always think about what happened to this person when they were wearing these eyelashes did they have like some incredible night out and maybe they were proposed to or something so sometimes i think about the vintage makeup in those terms i really try to connect with the lives of the women this company also made if you look at the advertising individual lashes and they were one of the first companies to launch individual lashes that you could apply yourself and and use yourself so just like exactly like the ones we used today this is quite an interesting piece it's a mascara from 1937 but it's quite unusual in the format and the delivery system because at that time most women would be using mascaras like this so in the block with the brush spitting polish spitting brush as i used to call them the advertising claimed it stayed clean and ladylike until all used up and i think the use of the word ladylike is a reference to the fact that you didn't have to spit anymore so it really is quite an extraordinary piece so this next piece is fascinating because it really illustrates the link between science and beauty it's just so fascinating to me that the beauty industry was and to a certain extent still is drawn to this outrageous marketing often using pseudo and quasi science when trying to sell the dream of beauty this is a particularly extraordinary makeup brand which was called throw radio there was actually two makeup brands similar to this a french one and a british one at the time this is the french one and it was makeup radioactive makeup really it was makeup that contained radium and radium had been discovered at the end of the 19th century and was being touted as a cure-all as being a healthy thing so it was being added to lots of different things and the makeup industry thought oh great we'll add it to makeup and we'll add it to lipsticks and face creams and and the ads i particularly love the ads for this brand they have this incredible 1930s style illustration of this woman who looks like she's glowing from below and it sort of says glow glow from within with our incredible radium infused lipsticks luckily no one died of it because radium was incredibly expensive so it was more of what we call these days a marketing level of the ingredient which means hardly any it was just they put the tiniest amount in so they were able to really market the product as being containing radium another beautiful thing although horrific really and these were so popular in the 1920s and 30s and i have lots of them although it's it's you know a monstrosity really but swan down puffs were absolutely huge and every woman had some kind of a swan down path and he would use it to often with a baker light handle like this or even a crystal handle and you'd use it to dust on your your face powder maybe a radioactive face powder you would dust it on this is a beautiful beautiful piece and this is my favorite collab of all time and this was after the 1934 movie zuzu which had starred josephine baker this legendary art deco style cuff bracelet with hidden powder compact was a licensing deal with albert flammon a parisian jewelry company while you were out dancing you would take your puffer and powder your face and in the advertising there was three different bangles there was this black and silver one i think there's a gold and green one and another one that was quite colorful and all of the advertising had josephine baker's signature so to me that's the chicest makeup collab of all time so we're coming to the end of the 1930s and around this time you can find so many beautiful powder boxes cardboard powder boxes but decorated incredibly well this one is probably the most famous it's the coty airspun powder with a package designed by celebrated artist and theater designer leon baxt most famous for his work with the ballet ruse this one is by lancome again a really beautiful box lancome started with fragrances and then moved into powder lots of perfume houses actually at this time were starting to get into makeup certainly chanel if you look at um this is a wartime pack for chanel so it says on it wartime packaging underneath because things like puffs were in short supply and lots of the materials that were needed to create these incredible boxes just weren't available anymore when you look at this this is coty airspun but from during the war and it says wartime edition so they went from this at the end of the 30s to this and although makeup packaging was certainly being downgraded during the second world war makeup was really being pushed as a patriotic thing it was almost your duty to wear makeup elizabeth arden launched patriotic red lots of the adverts for helena rubinstein are about put your war face on don't let standards slip keep your makeup on so um makeup was definitely still there in a big way although the packaging was maybe a lot more simple this compact represents a rare example of makeup and politics colliding this was used to promote roosevelt during the 1940 american election and this was seen as a way to recruit women voters by making powder compacts and by circulating them and having women you know touching up their their makeup and promoting a candidate so coming back from the war the next pieces that i'm going to talk about really for me sum up how makeup almost becomes like a performance by the late 40s and into the 50s all of these pieces i have are european and american and they're really telling a story to me of what women are supposed to be doing in their lives because lots of women had work during the war they'd been in the armed forces they'd had jobs they'd earn money but they were kind of expected to go back into the kitchen and become the homemakers and the mothers again and there is this kind of uber femininity that comes through in all of the pieces around this period everything is so over the top and really lends itself to kind of making yourself up in public and doing your lipstick and your powder and it's almost like a they're almost like performance pieces from this period i really love this lipstick which is rouge braiser which is a french company and they just made i think the most seductive lipstick ever this is a nice piece from the about 1947 so a couple of years after the war ended this was called the gay 90s mitt because as a reference to the 1890s and the bella park so this was a sort of edwardian piece that was quite fashionable again in the 1940s this is a great piece by gurlan that i love because i don't really have many pieces by girland from the 1940s so it's just a very beautiful powder compact so i'm going to move on to the 1950s now this is all about novelty novelty compacts first one i'm going to talk about is this because this was the ultimate status symbol and it was a powder compact made by boac which were sort of british areas before it was british airways and you could buy this on board the plane so if you own this you would be telling people that you were so glamorous because you could afford to get on an airplane and travel which in the 1950s was uber uber glamorous so anything to do with travel is so popular at this time this was a very famous powder compact by pygmalion a company called pygmalion and this was a musical globe so again there's this idea that glamour travel and glamour are so interlinked also space people are starting to think about space and travel and rockets and astronauts and what can the possibilities be so there are lots of sort of spacey looking planets and things like that coming through this is considered by a lot of people who collect vintage maker as being the kind of holy grail it's where art and performance and makeup meet or shall i say decoration and design meet it's by salvador dali and it's the bird in the hand compact the bird's head is a red lipstick and the back is the powder compact and it's signed by dali and this was produced it was a licensing deal with a company called elgin in america and i think there was lots of doubt in recent years as to whether dolly had had anything to do with it but there's lots of evidence that um someone who was actually in the meetings originally their niece wrote a piece on how she'd heard from her uncle that when he'd gone to the meeting with darley that he'd presented several different designs for the compact and one of them had in fact been exactly this bird so we think that this was actually designed by darley and darley had a really strong link with um designing lots of products he was a real kind of pioneer when it came to licensing deals so this would have been one of the first ones in the 50s and then you also have the may west sofa the may west lips you might have seen the red lip sofa they now make it in several different colors you can still buy that today and then in the 80s you did a licensing deal to do lipsticks which you can still find them on ebay they're kind of red or black lips um they're sort of like lucite like a clear plastic and then in 1994 sorry i'm jumping ahead to the 90s here there is this gold lips collection which was launched by the estate after his death i've already made a tutorial about this piece but i thought i'd just show it again quickly and this was a lipstick holder made by cartier for audrey hepburn and this is what she had in a handbag all throughout the 50s and the 60s i bought at auction a few years ago and i have actually made a video just about this piece because it's so iconic so i'll link to the video for that another fascinating lipstick holder is this one i own by dior and dior launch lipsticks in 1953. initially these were given to the clients of the couture atelier in paris but eventually they were available to buy and they came in two formats there was the quite simple gold ridged version and this would be for your handbag and for use during the day and then there's this incredibly ornate crystal obelisk that you would have on your dressing table and every time you would get your new lipstick you would put in there and then you would apply this one at home and leave the house with this one some more interesting lipsticks from the 1950s either because of color or because of the way they were put together are these ones i think everyone probably agrees it's one of the most iconic colors ever which is arden pink by elizabeth arden it was jackie kennedy's favorite color i have a really good condition one here in fact slightly morbid but she was wearing this the day of the assassination we only know that because all of her clothes that she's wearing that day her chanel suit and all of her belongings were packed up the next day and it included a tube of elizabeth arden's hard and pink this is revlon's fire and ice which is an iconic red lipstick it was also iconic because of the advertising which was written by a woman interestingly and the way they sold fire and ice was to give women the idea that it's not just about the color and the makeup but it's about the desirability that you will get from particular colors or particular makeup and this the woman that wore fire and ice was described as the most fascinating woman in the world or something like that it was just something which was quite unique and i think having a female copywriter certainly added an extra layer and it worked it was one of the most successful colors of all time interesting because of the technology are the hazel bishop lipstick which had launched in the 40s this is a 50s example and this was one of the first long wearing lipsticks i did forget to mention that was actually the first long-wearing lipstick and this was a technology that was coming in using bromo acids to create a more waterproof and more indelible lipstick and although the rouge bruiser one was was very famous hazel bishop became so popular because she really utilized the medium of television and she would often have ads in the middle of really popular tv shows and this led to sales in the millions and although i think it's probably one of those drying lipsticks ever and probably quite irritating as well it certainly lasted a long time on the lips another interesting formula was helena rubinstein's waterproof lipstick and this was heavily advertised everywhere so you could drink it you can swim in it you can eat in it and i particularly like this one because it's a miniature sample and it's quite unusual to see or you hadn't really seen in the past something that was as good quality as the full-size version in miniature so this is a really exquisite example of an early sample so onto a really iconic piece of makeup history and this is the first wand style mascara and i think because all mascaras now are one style and we think they've been around forever this was quite late it was 1950 that it launched and it was a metal wand with a metal not really a brush but you recognize this style today and it was advertised as a brush free mascara but it was something that i think if you think about it up until then mascara has either been i have a previous one one before then from helena rubenstein it had been a tube with a brush or it had been the cake style or it had been like we saw in the 1930s one that you'd have to wet and you'd have to pick it up with a brush so to have something that was considered automatic as this was where you could just dip in and put it on your lashes was quite revolutionary and this had actually been painted in 1939 something very similar to this by someone called frank engel and i don't know maybe he didn't have enough money to launch it maybe i don't know he went out of business but shortly after his patent expired helena rubinstein came up with this so hashtag just saying and if they saw his patent and thought we'll wait till it expires and launch it or whether they'd already been working on it but that's a really really iconic piece of history early 60s makeup looks like it almost fit into the 50s and this is normal because things go in cycles but they don't finish at the end of the decade so this mood that we had of everything being gold and flashy and quite blingy that started in the late 40s continues a little bit into the very early 60s and you're still seeing things which are very novelty and very blingy take for example this lipstick holder by charles revson and he had also launched this year a collection of lipstick holders which were called the caturines and they were all these elegantly dressed women but this was just so on the money because he'd seen that there was a real appetite for the film cleopatra even though it wasn't out yet everyone had seen elizabeth taylor out for dinner in rome with richard burton wearing all the makeup and the paparazzi had gone wild and it was in all of the magazines so before the film even came out he had released his cleopatra lipstick holder and i really love this ad as well so by the mid 60s makeup fashionable makeup looks totally different it's all about plastic packaging very childlike looking illustrations bright colors it's very naive in a way it's a real reaction to all of this gold and bling and young girls are getting into makeup they just don't want to look like their mothers they don't want to have their compacts and be doing their makeup in public like their grannies and mothers so makeup becomes very playful i've got lots and lots of pieces from this era because it's so exciting in a way to see that real sea change and that real revolution this is quite an interesting product oh you can smell that already interesting this is the mary quant highlight and contour so you've got your contouring powder and your highlight there it looks very ashy and gray i don't know if it looked like that it might have just gone off but that's something that almost feels like modern day makeup very playful eyeshadows that almost look like pieces of lego that you unscrew and you've got your eyeshadow in there and a mirror here and it's all it's all about fingers and applying your makeup in quite a painterly and artistic way i can imagine a lot of these product names must have been deemed really risque by the older generation which i guess made them even more fun things like starkers and in the nude i do have all the crayons as well i haven't used them today because i've talked about them in the past going into the 70s everything just becomes really fun really plasticky or really natural there's this movement into organic and natural makeup lots of the mary quant makeup at that time became all about looking healthy and healthy glow and natural and freckly and show your freckles and there was also this just you know i just love all of the avon stuff from the 70s i love these lipsticks i mean they're just like so bonkers you've got your kind of gelato there your ice cream a pencil lipstick everything's so plasticky and childlike and to practically be in a nursery a coke bottle lipstick this is a quite a cool thing this is an eye shadow it's got love on so it's very much a 70s vibe then it's just a plastic eyeball and inside it's got your eyeshadow and a mirror i think one of the most kitsch things i own from the 70s is this birdhouse by max factor and this was released in time for the holiday season in 1973 and it had what they described as continental size lipsticks i think they mean like a travel size of lipstick and you get this little bird in here and it came in an enormous box a huge great big box it was obviously meant to be a teenager's christmas presents interestingly enough it was all on sale by february so i don't think it went down that well i'm going to stop in the 80s and i thought what should i feature from the 80s and i definitely have a lot of really what i'd consider iconic pieces from there but i've decided not to feature the most iconic but to feature the rarest thing i have probably because i reckon i'm the only person that has this makeup range it's the i'll just bring a couple of pieces out it's the barbara huliniki makeup collection and this was barbara huliniki who had been the founder of bieber and she'd launched the boutiques in london in the 60s she'd launched the makeup range in the 70s which was so revolutionary and i'm lucky enough to own the whole range and the shop fittings and the whole thing i'm obsessed with it the makeup range was so interesting for me and i've done some videos with it before because it was great colors it was really something different it was makeup for all skin tones it was just she was really ahead of her time in that respect and unfortunately the whole corporate thing had taken over and she'd sold to a big corporation that really ran the company down and ran the makeup down so in 1980 once she got out of that she launched her own range and i just think it's the packaging is phenomenal all of the colors are so interesting and lots of them you wouldn't be able to make today say for example this eyeshadow which is radium actually is called day glow pink when i look at the ingredients list i think there's lakes and things that probably well i know for a fact abandoned lots of countries now loads of colored mascaras so really sums up that 80s mood blue mascaras really almost fluorescent blues and purples and great great names for all of the products wow that [Applause] that stinks oh um but yeah that's just for me a really personal thing and i was gifted that by barbara because i let my collection of bieber make up when she had a retrospective i lent it to a museum so as a kind of thank you i was given the makeup range from the 80s so as something that i'm very proud of in my collection and i know is probably quite hard to get hold of i feel that that is for me really iconic so that's it just a few pieces from my collection and maybe one day i'll have a museum show or something that i can show it all off but until then i'm going to have to pack it all up now and it's all got to go back in the vault so probably not going to see it for a while i've really enjoyed today i have absolutely loved collecting vintage makeup because every time i see it just inspires me not just the colors and the packaging it's the social history the chemistry the textures everything i just i really really find it fascinating so i hope you've enjoyed this video and if you want to read more about vintage makeup or you just want to know more about the history of makeup you can check out my book face paint which has not only more photographs of this collection but also a lot more about the history so do let me know in the comments which was your favorite piece today and or which was your favorite era and if you have any interesting bits of vintage makeup yourself then i'd love to hear about them in the comments thank you so much take care bye you

Channel: Lisa Eldridge

Views: 540,111

Keywords: Lisa Eldridge, Lisa Elridge, Lisa Eldrige, Makeup, Make-up, Make up, Tutorial, How To, Look, Professional, Pro, Makeup artist, Beauty, cosmetics, best, top, makeupbylisaeldridge, lisa eldridge foundation, Kardashian, history of makeup, vintage, 1000 year old, vintage makeup, first mascara, history, vintage makeup collecting, epic collection, new, Makeup History, Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Cleopatra, Vintage Makeup Collector, Vintage Makeup Collecting, Vintage Makeup or Makeup History

Id: 4-yeacvest0

Length: 39min 57sec (2397 seconds)

Published: Wed Sep 23 2020