How to Frame a Shed (One Section at a Time)

in today's video guys we're going to teach you how to build your own shed we're doing framing today we're doing again manageable sections so that as a diwire you can build it yourself and get professional results even if you're not a professional framer let me just to walk you through the plan here real quick we have a 16 ft actual Dimension length of shed here so that means that if I want to build a 16t wall and then lift it up I'm going to have all the weight of about 16 studs and top and bottom plates and then four sheets of plywood that's a lot to manage on your own so instead what I do is I'll break this down into an 8ft section and then another 8ft section and I'm going to have an one extra stud used in the entire assembly so I'm out five bucks but I only have to carry and lift half the weight each section so for me it's a definite win and it makes a really difficult project of lifting a 16ft wall where you need two people to help you and it turns into something you can do on your own so same thing we're just going to mark off all of our 16s okay it's the red squares Mark to the right Mark to the left I don't care but just have a system okay here we go and I'm going to be building an 8ft tall wall the reason for that uh sheet of aspenite a 716 sheet of aspenite comes 4T by 8 ft so if I make an 8ft wall I use two sheets and I don't have to cut anything okay think the your design and try to make it fit into your building material regimen and it'll save you a ton of time now to make an 8ft wall you just go to the store and you buy a 92 and 58 stud okay cuz you get a top plate a bottom plate and then a second top plate and it comes out just a little bit more than 8 ft so it's perfect every time now I got 1 2 3 4 five six seven studs I got my studs merked I got a top and a bottom plate here we go here we are now 2x4 means that I need two Nails because it's one in one nail for every two inches of material there we go there we go once you got it laid out that's it nice and easy Matt can you grab a pair of pliers for us we can pull these staples a lot of times guys your building material is going to come with a pile of Staples in it because they ship them wrapped okay so that the water doesn't get into it this is not pressure treated so it is imperative to keep it [Music] dry [Music] now the reason we're using two Fasteners is to keep the wood from twisting after we build and to help that end you want to have your Fasteners near the top in the bottom not two of them group together in the middle or they'll still twist [Music] okay [Music] [Music] just a couple things to consider I'm using an inch and a quarter Galvanize now um now because there's no code we can do whatever you want I mean you can use a really large crown staple if you're really in the mood but because this actually has two functions one this will square off my wall but two it'll also provide a lot of sheer strength so that the wall won't collapse and fall over all right inch and a/ quter nail in a material that's half in thick 7/16 but we'll call it half means that I need to have 3/4 of an inch inside the stut all right so 3/4 plus half perfect we're going to be just fine with that five nails for every length [Music] okay [Music] and you can see that right now the uh Aspen is overhanging just a little bit here and that's fine because once we get the walls up we're going to put a double top plate on we're going to have them crossed over that extra rigidity and tighten the building [Music] together it's just an extra set of hands for when you're working alone now I know we got Matt helping me here today but not everybody is going to have a helper when I lean my wall it can't fall off this the other side okay and that really helps a lot the other thing we're going to do is we're going to set up a brace all right okay make it nice and tight back it up a couple of threads while pulling on it now it's hinged okay so here we go now when you're working alone you'll be able to lift your own balls into place all right here we go oh we'll try that again all right whoops didn't account for anything that was just stupid okay and now we've got the right depth did I just do that too okay I'm having one of those days Maddie you do me a favor whipped it around the other [Laughter] way now I'm set up for Success now all I'm doing is making this perfectly flush in the corner adding a brace okay and it's not going to go anywhere all right now we're screwing through this plate on a bit of an angle because remember we have a double Rim so we have 3 in of lumber here and I want to put this screw into the rim all right I'm going to put one for every stud all right there we have it first wall of the shed now my son's going to build the other one exactly the same size while I run to the store because our material order was shorted two 2x10 doesn't sound like a big deal but got a 10ft wall there and a 10ft wall here I'm not going to build those in two sections that'd be [Music] crazy [Music] great so now we got our two handles that are 8 ft wide right 8 ft tall so that is the total outside perimeter we're now going to measure coming forward we have 116 left on our total Dimension but we want to take three and A2 off of that because I want to bring this wall up short is if I've got a 2x4 here of this wall and the just like the one the back then I can actually Cap all of these things with one 2x4 x 10 ft that I'll tie that wall to this wall to this wall with one piece of limber so think end from the beginning we're going to go a little bit short so that's 1122 right beautiful and that's because we've got the skin on our 2x4s we got it flush off the end the goal here is to frame this up flush off the J off the rim so that we can install vinyl [Music] side now I know some of you weren't very excited about the idea of us using vinyl siding to finish off the shed but at the end of the day we're trying to keep it simple it's a quick build it'll be waterproof it'll be pretty it's just uh yes just a little on the cheap side I don't every time I use vinyl the whole world screams should have used cement fiberboard like well there goes the budget all [Music] right when you got a twisted board you're going to lose that battle every time if you don't use the nail the screw all right oh I see and you want to get nice and low it's still not going to be perfect but a nail doesn't have the thread so it's going to pull out when you twist on nail down the other side okay but if it's twisted and you start nailing it all all you're going to do is weaken the whole St structures right there we go I need a few more screws wow oh I got you you got some money I think so handy yeah I'm not wearing a pouch thank you sir we'll close this one up and then there you go you can hit that one for me pop the head in on that last no and then we're good okay yeah not hard you hit it too hard just going to fire something else off lose the hammer there we go all right all right let's get the drill yeah I know we're not putting skin on this one truth is I'm not skinning the last three walls okay going to save a couple 100 bucks on the shed build and that's the goal remember we need to keep the weather out we don't need to buil this like for knocks uh if you live in an area you're concerned about safety and you want to put a skin on it go right ahead but the truth is in order to have enough structure all I need is a 2x4 on a corner brace nailed on the inside and that'll give me all the structure I need now when you're doing this getting close is good enough okay cuz sing has a wonderful ability to make it up for adjustments if you got gaps or little bumps or ridges or valleys all right let's get a few more in the plate and then you can actually tie this outside corner together with the screws make sure when you put a screw in you close the gap between the wood okay okay because if you start and you don't close the gap you'll never close the gap and the reason we're using screws of course again is if we make a mistake and it's most likely you might you can always go back throw the level on take out all the screws fix your corner and you're going to be just fine if you use the power nail you're in for a whole lot of fight to fix [Music] problems base plate in TR right give me a little bit of a kick out on the bottom here hold on this board is so warp let's going deal with one corner at a time I got it okay I'm going to drive here that's actually not bad at all okay so this is what I'm talking about because we're going with siding we're going to be setting our starter strip to a place where our siding and our house wrap is going to come right past this corner okay so our nailing strip will be around here now whenever you put on a nailing strip it it sits like this off the wall and the siding has its own texture so little variances like a little piece of wood sticking out or the curve of the wood or a bow on the bottom doesn't matter right anything within a half an inch of the bundle is going to be absorbed in the look of the vinyl siding and this is going to be of no consequence so do not turn your rough framing into a finished carpentry dra job it'll drive you crazy all right just know what you're dealing with what the mercy tolerance is on that product wow you really let me in a bit oh I had him on reverse imagine that thank you that looks good now we'll tie the corner together on the the other side again we're going to use screws and this gives us lots of flexibility moving forward on the job if I want to pull that quarter out a little bit I can oh come on honey every time it's awkward the screws got too much pain in ah so we're just going to draw this out so you know the plan because we have a 16t panel and like in the back we did it in two panels but in the front we're going to do it in three here's why got a door okay that is a 36 in door but when you include the framing it's actually 38 okay so that's the hole that I need 38 in and then we're going to have a jack stud on each side and then on the king Jack King stud on each side as well all right and we're going to build a header so we'll make this one section of wall make sense now on the other section we're going to have a rectangular window on each side we're going to put rectangular Windows near the top on each side to bring in the light but what that does is it gives you all four walls inside your shed to set up benches workstations store tools that way we can have the light and have all this usable space if I put the window window in the middle of the wall like a double hung all of a sudden that that section of wall on both sides of the door become kind of useless right it's kind of like when you're in an old house and the kitchen windows were going down to 2 ft from the ground and they bring cabinets to the window and then they put another piece of cabinet in between the windows your kitchen's only half the size so this is what we're doing to incorporate that 16 ft sorry at 12 in is 184 Inus 38 3 6 44 gives me 140 in cut that in half each side here is 70 in boom now we need top and bottom plates at 70 in we'll assemble this left to right hopefully the math adds up okay so thank you Matt that's a perfect 70 so we're going to Mark our Center Line here 35 and I'm going to do this in markers so it's easier for you guys to see now I have a window it's available off the off the shelf at Home Depot and it is an 18x 20 but when you measure them if my memory serves me correctly that's the outside dimension of the outside flange okay so the window actually has a jam and then it has a a 1in overhang like that so what I want to do is I want to frame to here and make that hole really nice I'm got to go 18 so I'm going to set my nine right there right there you going to Mar there okay here's the studs we're going to go top to bottom on these studs wind and for framing of our Windows all right of course we need one over here of course we need one over here and you know what we're just going to split the difference here and we're going to put one at 14 okay this is uh less than the 16 on Center so it'll get the job done all right there we [Music] go so what's happening here is he brought this stud flush to this but the truth is this is kind of like the the Bark Side of the tree and so look at the Gap underneath the stud here all right so I was I was standing over there I saw that the bottom was actually perfect but here it's actually been kind of peeled off so we'll keep that nice and flush throw one more nail into it and then uh we'll take a scrap block and scab it onto the front so that way our nailing surface for our siding stays flush okay my window is a 20x 30 and I'm putting it in horizontally but I'm marked it in vertically like an idiot cuz it's like how many windows you put in horizontally in your life at least now we get to establish how high we want it going to have you grab the skill saw mat and we're going to roll this up I want an 18-in space yeah that's perfect I'm going to come down 28 in off the top okay there we're going to reframe on the fly all right so what I'm going to get you to do is while it's sitting like this put a cut line in it and then we'll roll it and then you can finish the cut three here we [Music] go okay now let's just think this through my hole I wanted at 18 plus an inch and a half for the other header whoops my bad cut that line okay same [Music] thing [Music] it's is always easier to come across the top not have to bend the tape 38 and 3/4 twice all right so what we're going to do Matt is once we get the windows in I'll throw in a little back framing once I get them positioned all right and because I don't have my windows on me deci side I might as well just go with screws here in case I have to make even more changes find out in the next video if I get the windows the right [Music] size let's do it we going to start from over here [Applause] goes to the outside corner Keep It Coming hold it okay all right all right just going to go two for now all right can you push that your your top out right there hold on let back it up and all right there we go that looks pretty darn good to me okay now we build the inside wall now we're going to measure off the base plate so what we're going to do is actually once we've got this rolled into place and everything is squared and tightened and screwed together together we'll cut the bottom plate out so that becomes part of the height of the door and we wanted to go right to 7 ft and in this case that leaves me room for a 2x10 header I don't have any 2x10s on me but in this kind of a scenario remember you're looking to transfer load and it's only going to pick up uh two Rafters at most so anything under 5 ft you can use a 2x6 header okay if it's bigger than 5 ft you got to go to 2x8 in a lot of cases they'll just use 2x10 because it's the same amount of lumber that's left over the hole so a lot of houses will have a 2x10 header just because it's easy math right lousy insulation but it's easy math what I'm going to do instead of cheating and you can here okay you can cheat we can totally just go two pieces of 2x6 we do them vertical we nail them together go over the Jack studs in a lot of construction that's thinner than the wall so what we do is we laminate a/2 inch piece of plywood in there as well so it's the same thickness it uh just makes it easier if you're going to do any finishing work or installing boards we're going to show you how to do a proper header why the heck not I got some scrap plywood so we'll just go through the process for you real simple I'm just going to grab some plywood mat I'll be right [Music] back [Music] [Music] okay so this header it's 2x6 plus half in plywood plus 2x6 but you don't want your plywood to be in the way so overhang it quar inch or half an inch Make Your Mark okay Trace that out Mark the end and then cut it short on purpose remember the purpose of this filler is to create the right thickness of the total assembly of the wall so you get to three and a half in which is the same as the width of a 2x4 it does provide a little bit of strength but the purpose of it is just to beef it out so always cut it a little bit small in both dimensions just make your life simple [Applause] [Music] [Applause] there we go now take a look at your 2X sixs or eights or 10 usually they come bowed okay so place that bow on top of yeah there you go all right and then the first thing you want to do is instead of nailing this you want to screw this this is a great time for some clamps especially when you're dealing with dimensional Lumber that's a little bit warped okay you want to be able to make sure you're somewhat flush ah that looks really good all right give me some screws like the top and bottoms all right let's get all that driven together and you do it from both sides okay yeah and you need to bury it so that you're squeezing all these layers together there you go okay four sets of two or three yeah well four is probably better that stuff's a little warped if it's not so warp it's not so bad make sure you get the screws right right near the top and bottom yeah you'll see this the assembly you see how it's yeah you trying to pinch this two together oh okay okay there we go how deep you burying those screws half an inch yeah well then you're fine it's just one side ah it's a notot that's not going to work it'll just break it won't grab all right let's get out of here throw that sucker on top nail it in on both so I have to do I have to double it up on both sides no he got you're going all the way through because you're burying your heads oh okay I'm not worried about it all right right so you only want to get um two in here and two in the bottom piece on both sides okay perfect we going clean this up a little bit it's almost time to bring a ladder out here almost okay s me to you on the top PR sure here we go okay you got it all right now here's a really important key this is getting cut out all right so for temporarily we're going to put a screw in it just keep it away from this joint where you're going to put your saw blade things get dirty and you lose track of that it'll wreck your day all right now we're we're anchored beautiful we have one more section to build but before we do that I want to get some support on this okay so I want to tie this stud together with this one from the inside into that King and I'm going to go get a ladder cuz we have two extra 2x10 and I'm going to put those braces where these two walls meet across the middle to keep everything from bowing and to establish a nice strong joint here for our door okay okay [Applause] now remember how we're going to go with a a double top plate y okay yep so we're going to put a 2x10 there but we can also put one here on this joint there's a weak spot in the frame now yeah we can put one here on the weak spot yeah and then we're laughing right so let's get a 2x10 for you yeah that's it flush there and half on each and get two screws on it same screw on the other side tie together the other side plate now this is kind of a collar tie when you look over there how far over the plywood or the OSB is that sticky inch and a half okay push your wall back until it falls in place now they're leveled nice ni yeah this becomes like a collar tie of [Applause] sorts there you go that's one of the advantages Matt have organizing your wood because I was able to go okay that's crap it's got a big split I can't use that on the top or bottom plate but it makes a great caller time right so then we don't have to go shopping again all right now we're building the last piece of wall same as the first piece life is good all right guys it's next day uh you know as a DIY what you're going to find is that you don't have systems for everything that you're doing so you generally need your wits about you to be successful and yesterday afternoon in the sun uh that was not the case so what we got is let's just take a look at this um obviously I drive in this morning I'm like holy cow what was I thinking I've got a lovely header over here right that looks sort of good um truth be told that header comes to 10 and A4 in yeah so generally speaking what people will do is they'll use a a 2x8 and another 2x4 underneath to create that header thank you for that and uh and that's fine and so we can show that demonstration in the next one as well um yeah going to make it down to 8 10 qus this situation right here is kind of like reminiscent of how they used to build back in the 1900s to 1920s okay but over time over the 100 years what we noticed is that this would start to get a bit of a boat okay so there's a lot of houses out there that are really old that have got the the framing compressed with the jam of the window putting pressure on the glass and then the gra the glass will crack so this is not a long-term solution it won't last 100 years but it's a shed so we're going to double up this plate so it acts more strength to transfer load and that'll help I also blint and bought one of the windows and I had the measurement wrong that's my window size so you'll see that if I'm resting down on this bottom plate I've got a significant Gap here so I do have opportunity to stick this double plate on and we'll do that right now nice and snug the way I want it making sure that when I'm nailing I'm not going where the stud is going right next to it we're going to build a couple of braces along the side so that when we do our our facade we've got something there to put the material into and that's fine then we're ready to stick the window in above this door over here though it's a little bit different now we didn't complete this section yet uh in order for a header to work it has to carry the load and there's nothing above this header directing load down to it so we're going to put in blocks here here here and here that's four points of contact we'll double the plate again and now all that little transfer to this and then transfer over to the Jack stud okay and that'll be perfect and now when we build the next section we're going to use this height off the deck as our as our constant so that both windows are in the same position when we're finished all right and then we'll build another header similar like this style with the blocks above above the top the only other thing that we make made a mistake on was this here this little we're going to call it a collar tie for the sake of a name it's exactly 10 ft long Our Deck is exactly 10 ft wide but the aspenite on that back wall is flush with the deck so the true Dimension that this needs to be is 9 sorry 9t 11 12 in so we're going to take out the screws cuz we use screws right yes thank God and then we're going to trim this back a half an inch and then reset this well cuz right now that extra half inch is pushing the front wall out a little bit we don't want that cool if I put him in yeah right ahead and just kind of like one on the end and then even spacing that's the only the only trick there yeah so what you're going to find I think is that the 2x6 on the outside is just a little bit higher beautiful yeah yeah every tool can be used as a hammer all right let's getch you up on the top plate there pop off those screws Matt completely yeah there you go you don't want them anywhere near you while you're cutting now half an inch yeah there you go sweet now you can knock the block out of the way now you can screw that back on so now flush on the outside takes us to perfectly level okay uh now we've got all the our modifications taken care of and the only thing i' not liking here Matt is when this was all nailed together H there's gaps here I'd like to get a couple of screws in here when the lumber comes really twisted you got to screw your Gap shut or they're going to stay twisted and open and then nothing's going to be square installation of the door will be a nightmare try to take care of all the problems before they're becoming a problem and uh yeah like if you look through two pieces of wood and you can see daylight you got to add some screws all right guys so now for the last section we're just going to measure bottom plate right to the edge of this stud which is 78 quarter okay we're going to do top and bottom exactly the same when you're building as long as your top and bottom plates are exactly the same size you can put all your panels together and you're going to end up pretty darn close to square and when I say that that's perfect close is perfect in framing okay don't be too hard on yourselves and know a lot of you guys might be asking hey Jeff you didn't frame your anything on 16 on Center across the front how in the world are you going to put your sheet Goods on there um CLE weapon I'm not okay this is an affordable simple shed what we're going to do is we're going to actually just put bracing on the inside we're going to add vinyl siding vinyl siding doesn't need frame 16 on Center it just needs framing every so often so knowing that it makes this project simple so you can break this down into adjustable pieces that can be built one at a time and you can get a great result and you can do it all by yourself so what I'm doing over here is I'm just using the window I'm marking my spot where I want to put another brace here okay so I have a nailing surface around the window on the outside that'll facilitate adding the J Trims and that sort of thing for the window and it also I need to have this ordered so I know exactly what the distance from my double on the door is to the inside of this stud so I can duplicate that on the other side so it becomes a mirror image so the distance from the corner here is 15 and 3/4 guess I better double check that that is to the outside the outside of that frame and that'll create the window cavity that'll mirror the other side of the door and that's the look that we're going for very symmetrical now I'm going to frame this one a little different now that I've got an actual Dimension my next stud is going to be on the other side of the window is 48 and A2 [Music] beautiful so we've got a stud here that's got a nice warp to it so what you do is first you go buy one of these hammers okay the W has the claw uh s20 has a claw and you're going to want to put your nail near the bottom right and then we can rotate that into position just go ahead man give that a shot you want to shoot the bottom one is shoot the bottom okay then you put your Claw on here and look at all the levers one hand and now you can throw an extra nail or two in there okay so if you push it just a little past where you want it throwing in a nail it'll all settle right in position that is how you fix crooked [Music] wood [Music] got four Nails on each side that transfers load really really nicely okay and because there's no Second Story there's no real live load other than the roof itself and then a little snow load in the win winter time uh that that transfer is going to be in the thousands of pounds so it's not an issue now all we got to do set this one in the same height before we nail that cuz we're working in this in the heat good call yeah good call yeah there you go house close y well what in the world eh oh that's right this one goes on that side of the line okay remember the line that I put that there now I've got a little bit of room okay so I can maneuver that properly here we go you can nail that now yeah sure you know if you uh if you did nothing but framing carpentry tree every day of your life you'll have systems in place but as a DIY you don't so take one step at a time measure over and over again you know use your windows use your doors think through your process one step at a time cuz when you're working out the sun you go from genius to grade too stupid in about 20 minutes well let say we stand this up and see how she gos sure yeah a little hot for the belt today huh okay now we're going to go in front of the other sidewall all right so just walk it right over here I'll extend past the door and then watch the top bring it all the way over in front and go wide on purpose I got it I got it there we go she's just catching Nails on the floor all right so first thing we're going to do grab a hammer and a nailer I'm going to hammer it in I'm going drop a a nail in the corner perfect right here beautiful here let's go with uh yeah that's a really nice stud okay hold on we're going to use screws up there okay let's hit this triple here all right there we go now it's not falling over all right and do one just going to level off and flush this quarter all right that'll hold it all for now we'll get a little more stability in this in a minute all right guys so we got a triplet here the double is existing this piece we're trying to connect these top plates together all right and at the same time we had this incredible issue you can see the daylight that's pretty close I'm thinking set that at the top okay and compress those studs together right on the right on the plate yeah if you do it on the plate it'll it'll guarantee it straight if the studs are out a little bit that's one thing but if the plates are out that's another the plates being connected are more important than the studs being in the right place cuz the plates are going to affect the roof Rafters so we want to try to keep that straight now we got the wall straight we want to get rid of this Gap the best way to do it is with a 3-in screw going straight in not on an angle okay one on each side and the idea is you screw in the close side first cuz it's the easiest you close that Gap and you screw that screw until it closes the Gap even if the head goes into the wood a half an inch okay you got to close the gap then you can do the other side okay you got it now it's touching now when you close the other side it's going to need more Force yep so you might want to almost reach over and hold it oh your drills short enough okay good oh boy I'm not the best with this tool eh it's okay now drive it closes there you go there you go there you go you got it now you can drive the wound on top even more and see if it closes up more okay we got it that's about as far as it going to go grab that other 10t 2x4 M we still have that I hope right yes take take a/ inch off of that one and we'll do the same thing at this triple come across again right all right and then hit the corner two on the one wall and two on the other oneall okay that's plenty now all we want to do is make sure that we nail in here we got this one get near the top there to pull that corter together beautiful we're in good shape here so before we get the rest of the top plates in though what I want to do is I want to get a couple of cross braces inside the wall okay now this is important for you guys at home um we've got our Windows positioned so that if you want you can modify you can put bench here you can put bench down the side you can do anything you want to do with this space because your window isn't interrupt in the space right so this can become a work table what we do want to do is we want to get a u a cross piece that goes from here right down towards that door and we want to nail it to the studs that create that rigidity so the wall can't move like this cuz right now it can still Rock back and forth and when I do that the back wall of the aspenite doesn't move at all because it's sheeted with that she good but out here we're not going to spend the money on that we're going to use a $5 piece of 2x4 to create that rigidity problem Sol Y all right then what we're doing is we're actually yeah I told you not bad we're leveling left to right here so you can start off by let's keep a gap over here so we got some room throw me throw me a throw me a couple of Nails in the bottom of that into the plate um through the front there we go okay now you can hold the level on that I'll take this okay it's got to go your way there you go right there just for a demonstration want you to stand over there okay on the outside corner y now try to push it back and forth this way yeah that's not tied together yet okay grab this W it's not going anywhere is it no we want to brace them from the inside so we can get our exterior braces off that's what's holding it in level right now but once we take the outside off so we can do our facade we want to have the interior braces in place if you're building your shed and you're going to design um benches and stuff tied up against the wall and you don't want to have an interior brace then you have to use the sheet on the outside that'll give you the stability that you want without the interference of the wood in front okay here we go now that one's already braced so you can just throw it in the corner right it's actually nice right about there okay and then you can just want to nail it I'll level it the bubble needs to go to the left all right that's good all right never hesitate if you hesitate you die here we go is that a movie quote yes sir let's get one more over here all right you got the level on it let me know when it's perfect yeah all right we're officially tied in that means all we got to do is measure the rest of the top plates as an infill throw another 10 foot brace minus a/ an inch from here to here all right guys that's the last section for framing your walls getting in the rest of your top plate once you got your Corners tied together you got to fill in the rest of the spaces remember you don't have to frame this like a finished Carpenter you want to do this like a framing Carpenter give yourself a little bit of space when you need it if it has a little wiggle room it's okay because the way this works is everyone of these Rafters comes down and needs to have solid contact there's a little Gap it ain't going to change the Integrity of the structure if you want to see us finish off this build make sure you hit the Subscribe button the bell for notifications and we will see you in the next week's video cheers

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 667,269

Keywords: homerenovision, renovision, jeff thorman, homerenovisiondiy, how to build a shed, diy shed, shed build, build a shed, shed plans, do it yourself, storage shed, shed walls, how to frame a shed, how to build a shed roof, diy shed build, shed framing, how to build a storage shed, diy cheap shed building, how to build a shed from scratch, how to frame a wall

Id: ig0O2mG6kB8

Length: 50min 10sec (3010 seconds)

Published: Sat Nov 25 2023