You Won’t Believe This Charcuterie Board | Black Cherry Burl and Purple Resin Magic

hey it's Ken from MoonPie Creations today  we're going to make a charcuterie board   that blew my client's socks off and to tell  the truth it kind of took my breath away about four years ago buddy of mine called and  said hey I'm clearing some property do you want   to go on there and grab any of the leftover wood  I knew we had some trees on there with Burl so I   grabbed my chainsaw and off I went here's a  fun fact for you I get most of my wood from   locally downed trees whenever there's a storm  in town I get phone calls or people ask if I   want any of the wood I'll grab my chainsaw  my trailer and I'll head on out Leanna let   tested this has led to a pretty bad sickness  called wood hoarding but for this customer it   kind of works out because this is some of  the most beautiful black cherry I've seen one of the most important things you can do  whenever you're making resin anything whether   it's a bowl or a charcuterie board or a table  is remove the bark and all the dirt this will   help the resin adhere to the wood so that's what  I'm doing here it took me about three hours all   together to get it all cleaned up and ready to  go into the mold these boat trails are really   hard to see but you really need to get the dirt  out of those also there's also some Burrs in the   cracks that you need to get down you don't want  any of that being seen after you get it casted foreign I also try to get rid of as much as the  rotted wood as I can which you can see   right here I'm chiseling a little bit of  it away while I'm getting the bark here I know all of you know the importance of good  table saw maintenance and I want you guys to think   that I knew the same thing so I decided to clean  my table before I started this project just so I   could get off all the beer can rings that were on  there because I knew you guys would chastise me   for if I didn't a little bit of T90 and a little  bit of a 120 to 220 sandpaper goes a long way   I cut this Burl when it was wet so there was a  lot of wood movement as it dried what I'm doing   here is making a joiner sled this will help me  get a good Edge on there I don't have a joiner   anymore since my incident I can't use them so  you might think that the screw holes are going   to be an issue here but they won't they won't  be seeing at all what I should be doing here   is putting a slight angle on it since the mold  actually has a slight angle but I'm not going   to do that we're just going to go ahead and put  it in straight and then throw some resin in it let me go ahead and clean this with some  acetate and after I'm done with that I'm   going to go ahead and hit it with  some mold release but I won't show   you that then I will place the pieces of wood  inside of the mold and then we'll get started I mentioned earlier some rotted wood another way  to fix that is what I'm doing right here that's   a 50 50 solution of resin and acetate I'm going  to put that on the wood it'll soak in and I keep   soaking it in until it won't take any more and  by the time it dries you'll have some hardened   wood hopefully I used a foam brush and that's  probably not the most sound thing to use with   with acetate as it dissolves but it was all I  had and I had to do this very quickly and I did   get some pieces of the foam brush that came off  and came apart onto the Burl but it it's going   to get planed off in the end I think it came out  fairly well and I soaked it in pretty well too foreign as you sit there and  put on this acetate resin mix   gives you a good idea of what this Burl is going  to look like when it's done and I'll tell you what   this is when I really started uh deciding  this was some extraordinary Burl right here since you mix this resin with acetate it takes  a little bit longer to dry normally I'll use   the two to one and it'll take about four hours  to dry this is going to take overnight so I'm   doing this right before I go in to the house so  I keep putting it on putting it on putting it   on and when I see little dry spots that means  it's the wood sucking in the resin and it just   needs more so I keep putting it on there and it  takes about an hour for me to do this but in the   end it stops sucking it in and that's when  I went inside and came out the next morning so this is the next day and what I'm doing here  is I'm going to calculate how much resin I need to   put in here and what that is is that you take the  length of it uh you do an average of the width and   the depth and times it all by that and it gives  you cubic inches once you get the cubic inches   you can go to Google and use Google to transfer  that over uh to a leader and that's what I did   and you'll notice that I grossly miscalculate what  I need in the end and I have to do another batch   so my calculation showed that I needed about a  liter and a half of resin so I mixed up about   a liter and a half and uh yeah it just  wasn't enough I had to do another liter   and a half and that still wasn't enough so it  was probably more like about three and a half   liters of resin not sure where my calculations  went wrong but they were so no big deal though   but what is a big deal is that I use the Purple  Haze and the black onyx and I run out of black   onyx in the first one so I had to use the imperial  black onyx on the second pour which is a different   color slightly uh but in the end you'll see  what I do and it comes out just fine foreign you need to make sure that you're level uh  frontwards backwards Every Which Way just make   sure it's level so you don't get it all more  on one side once you do you're ready to pour when you're putting your resin in don't forget  to get some of those voids that you want that   purple into this board what I'm going to do is  after I do the next pour I'm going to wait for   it to tack up probably two or three days and  then I'm going to add a clear coat on top of   it it'll really make it pop but I want to make  sure I get those voids filled in the meantime here's the second liter and a half  of resin you can tell it's slightly   different color so I'm gonna try  to blend this together and I do   something I probably wouldn't ever do  is using one of my mixers to mix it in   the mold but it seems to work out the reason you  don't do that because it makes all those bubbles   but this is sticks that fathom and the bubbles  all rise to the top and you'll be just fine uh rather than a blow gun because I don't like  what the blow gun does here's a tip from cam   over at Blacktail Studios use a paintbrush  to get the bubbles off the side because then   bubbles do like to stick to the side so you can  see some of them are coming up and I get those   here's the top view of the pour and you can really  see the difference in color it's a lighter color   but I think in the end it just makes it pop  that much more so it was a happy little accident there seems to be a point in all my projects where  I just totally screw up and last night I came in   and I swirled the resin it was a little bit too  thick and I called some bubbles I popped all those   bubbles and right now I am pouring what I thought  was resin on the top of this and I make two pores   and I don't want to give away too much  you'll see what happens in just a minute after pouring the clear coat you can still  see some of the bubbles down below because   the air got trapped in them I used this  Dental pick here to kind of bring those   bubbles up to the surface and get resin  down in there and then I pushed them down   a little bit to get the clear resin into those  little bubble holes seems to have worked well hmm something's going on here I'm  getting bubbles in the layer below here apparently when I mix the first clear batch my pump gotten clogged up this pump right here  this one with the high performance epoxy in it   got clogged up so there's only hardener  underneath there oh man that's a   so I want you to see this as I  push and do this I'll get more here so you can see it right here right there watch bigger that means that there's no air up  under here this top layer which is hard   because the second time after I noticed it was  clogged up I put this next thing on here this is   gonna be a mess I hope I didn't ruin this board  I'm just gonna have to change what I'm doing   so the board sat there for almost  a month while I decided what to do   and I figured out that I should just go ahead  and drain off the hardener from in between and   this is what I'm doing here taking it out and  it was just an incredible mess there's a void look at all that stuff coming out  this is why I did this oh my gosh I need something to bring this against there yeah I'm gonna let this all drain out and then  I'll figure out what I need to do with   that top part I'll probably plane  it off after everything drains out   the board sat against my drum sander there  for three or four days while it drained off   this right here is a sped up video about a hundred  times of the resin leaking out you can see it just   has that little tiny area to come out of I thought  it was kind of neat so I thought I'd show you guys I know what you're wondering was I  able to save the hardener no I was   not able to save the hardeners not worth scooping   it all in somewhere and then straining  it out getting all the impurities out   so I just left it there I ended up putting some  sawdust in it and then threw it in the trash I came up with a plan to run it through the planer  so I needed to make sure it was cleaned up I   used some denatured alcohol to get all the sticky  uncured hardener out and then I decided to scrape   off some of the gelled up resin that was sitting  on top of the board and this is what I'm doing   here I was a little bit worried when I was using  my planer on this as you get that resin too thin   it has a tendency to pop out and shoot everywhere  and I it started getting a little bit too thin   you'll see in a minute a piece broke off so I  stopped and just decided to do it a different way I guess I could have used my Dremel to go ahead  and carve around this whole thing and bring   this out but you know sometimes you just got to  get some of your frustrations out so I started   beating it with this wooden Mallet that I  have and it was fairly therapeutic although   it was tough to get all the little  pieces out there were still some   gelled up hardener inside the little area  where the bubbles were coming out in the   last part of the video and then I cleaned  it up with some more uh Teenage scuffle so this is it all cleaned up you can see that  I was I put it in when it was still kind of   wet so it kind of made this stuff all gnarly I  don't know what this is gonna look like I don't   know if it's gonna work and if not we'll just  plain it down till it gets flat with the purple   and that'll be fine I'll just put a clear coat  over it but I want to make this a really thick one   so we will see we're going to use the two  to one resin I use my pump again I've got   it cleared out it's working fine now the the  two to one has a slight yellow to it so what   I'm going to do is I'm going to use some of this  blue sapphire and just put a drop in it and that   helps blue it out and it'll help it get a little  bit clearer I don't know how it works but it does yes I did check and make sure the pump  wasn't clogged up again so we're going   to do this one more time and see  if it works and see how it looks once I got it out of the mold it looks  a lot better than I thought it would   and it was time to start doing the really  drawn out process of filling all the holes   and then sanding filling all the holes  and then sanding and this took forever after filling the large holes I decided to cut  it down to size and put the chamfers on it and   that's what I'm doing here once that's  done I can go ahead and head over to the   finishing table and start filling all the small  little holes that I need to with some star Bond I learned the trick of putting  this painters tape on the bottom   for a better crisper line with  the resin from crafted elements I'm always hopeful when I'm doing a resin  coating that it'll only have to do one but   I have to babysit this thing with a torch and  go back and pop all bubbles constantly and   inevitably there's always some dimples in the  resin so I have to go back and I'm going to do   a second coat on this after I'm done with this  one that actually makes it pop a little bit more whenever you're doing a second coat you  have to scuff up the first coat and this   also helps level out the resin a little bit and  make sure you're getting it very well you don't   want any large built up areas of resin once you  have it all scuffed up it's time to clean it   with some denatured alcohol or some acetate  all right guys unlike you do in the bedroom   you're going to need to massage this board  for more than five seconds to get it all   spread out what the resin tends to do is  spread out from the epoxy that's already   on the top there and hardened so you need  to make sure you get it very well especially   pay attention to the sides because it  likes to spread apart on the sides too this tabletop resin tends to have a lot of bubbles  in it and I don't know why it might be because   it's so cold in my shop that's 70 degrees it may  just be the resin but I get a lot of bubbles so   I babysit this thing for 45 minutes to an hour  afterwards and continuously pop Bubbles as it goes   and little specks of white will come up and I'll  get that off there I'll just make sure that it's   looking really good for the next hour and then  I'll put a box over it let it harden up from there   taking the tape off the back is pretty easy then   you don't have those drips  that you have to sand down and once that tape is off you have a fairly crisp   line that doesn't take much  sanding to make it blend in what I didn't show here is I actually filled all  the small little holes and boys with Starbomb CA   glue then I start sanding up to 600 grits  making sure that all the small little Nicks   and swirl marks from the sander are gone all  right ladies and gentlemen we're in the home   stretch I'm cleaning this with some acetate and  we're going to use Rubio monocoat to put a final   coat on the bottom here with Rubio monocoat all  you're going to do is put it on you're going to   work it into the wood let it sit for about  15 minutes and then you're gonna wipe it off I got the file for this little jig to do the  feet with off a thingiverse printed it up on   my artillery 3D printer and I'm loving this  it's a lot easier to place these feet with it   and we're going to call this one done I'm  going to get it in the mail send it off to   the customer and hopefully they'll like it  as much as I do appreciate you guys watching   my videos if you can hit that subscribe  button hit the thumbs up button and leave   a comment tell me what you think about the  board all right until next video stay cool thank you

Channel: Ken Moon

Views: 58,278

Keywords: resin casting, wood turning, total boat epoxy resin, resin, honeycomb aluminum and resin, honeycomb resin, bowl, oak, laguna 1836, lathe, turner, pen blanks, wood, burl, turning bowls, mpc, moonpie creations, ken moon, how to, how-to, diy, shop project, incredible bowl, hand made, hand crafted, working with resin, working with resin in art, tatoal boat, Resin Art, resin shavings, resin in resin, casting, resin bowl, Epoxy bowl, charcuterie board, cutting board, cherry burl

Id: sh5Em-YbtgU

Length: 20min 16sec (1216 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 03 2023