Yaesu FT-1000MP Repair and Modification

hi there on the bench today we have a yaesu ft 1000 mp amateur transceiver now this yeshu ft-1000 has a little bit of a story behind it it's been to some other text before it's got here and that means that the failure points within this radio are no longer virgin failure points and what i mean by that is when you have a virgin failure point that means that something has gone wrong in the radio and usually it's only isolated to one section you very rarely get two completely separate problems failing at the same time so when other techs get in there and they can't fix the radio there's a really large chance that he slipped with a probe or not connected something right or just caused more problems and i'll give you an example with this radio here in just a second so most of the time i tell people no i'm not going to bother with it because it's just way too incredibly time consuming and a lot of the times a year you end up by the time it gets to your bench it's a charcoal briquette and you really don't want to full with that the catch-22 here is is the fella that brought it here is a fellow ham radio operator and he's also a very good friend so i always have time for my friends so i said okay bring it over let's put it on the bench and i'll check it out and um well here it is so he said that the the last fellow that owned this thing he says that he checked the final sections to see if the final was good and he bridged a bunch of stuff out inside the radio and the radio put out full power okay well that to me is just you know red flags you know there's a reason that this thing isn't transmitting it's not putting out any rf power usually usually when the receive is low and there's no rf output usually there's something either open or shorted in the final area or on the front end of the radio and there's sensing circuits inside these radios that shut them down so that they can't put out rf power so that they'll damage the finals or do anything like that these radios are actually pretty complex inside and they sense all this stuff so if the radio is creating high standing waves or something internal to itself it's just it'll shut off it'll just it won't do anything so by this last fella bridging this section out and making this thing transmit when it's really not supposed to be transmitting again could have caused a lot more problems so we might have two completely separate problems to chase down now now i'm hoping not i'm hoping that everything just went smoothly and that the original failure points are still there and nothing else has happened now if i remember correctly this has been here for a little while now because i haven't had much time to fool with this thing but uh it's now made it to the bench here and uh i'm sure he's probably pretty happy because you've been waiting for this for a while but um the original complaint was uh the receive was slowly dying off and slow so was the rfo put the rf output was kind of going down with the receive and i think in the end when he ended up bringing this to this other fella it had very low receive and no rf output so hopefully these are still kind of the same issues in here but what we'll do is we'll go through this together and we'll make sure that all the original failure points are the original failure points and i'll look through my notes and make sure that nothing has been added to this so that i don't have to chase down any other points even though if it has i guess i'm still chasing them down because uh is a good friend so so let's uh let's tear this thing down together like in the other videos and go through this piece by piece and fix this ft-1000 and and make it happy again we're now ready to do the initial power on test with this yaesu ft 1000 mp what we're looking for in this initial power on test is to make sure that we don't have any additional failure points added to the original ones and the original failure point in this radio was low receive and no rf output so before we turn this radio on we want to make sure that a couple of buttons and dials are in the right position so we want to make sure that the mox and the vox buttons are both out we want to make sure that the rf power is down and we should probably turn the audio gain down for both the main and the sub so that just in case this thing makes some horrible noise if we don't scare us out of our chair here and uh you know just the rest of the knobs kind of common sense centered no attenuation egc on auto or slower or wherever uh we want this to be in receive mode when we actually turn this on so if it does go right into transmit mode chances are going to shut it off right away antenna a on the back of the radio is connected to a dummy load inside of my transmitter test set so if this thing does go right into transmit mode and you know full throttle put power out this will show it right away and of course i'll be shutting it off and of course we're not looking for that we want this to be in receive mode so i'm going to turn this thing on everything is about in its right position i'm going to keep my finger on the power switch and watch my transmitter monitor and make sure that everything on the display is gonna be a really quick test if uh if i see something crazy i'll shut it right off and uh if it looks like it's somewhat behaving i'll just leave it on so here we go and everything looks normal it's on antenna a we don't see transmit and we have no transmit power so already we're off to a good start let's see if we got any static and we do so it's trying to receive so we're not in transmit mode that's a good thing we are an am right now and as i say it's on antenna a let's see if the sub works if this guy's gonna work over here yeah it has audio gain too there's a couple controls that are trying to work whether they do or not at this point we have no idea but uh it's kind of behaving so we're in am right now we can try and see if this will put out any kind of rf power so the rf powers right down at the bottom i'll push the mox and keep a close eye on this and on the power scale here i want to make sure that it's on collector current so i can monitor the collector current of the output transistors and i will throw it into manually operated transmit mode right now and we don't have any power output no collector current no power there but it is in transmit mode and the receive section went quiet so there is switching going on i'll try and turn the rf power up and we have absolutely nothing there so i'll turn the mox off let's try fm okay turn the volume down here just a little bit turn it back on again and absolutely nothing else so pretty much safe to say that it's making no output power whatsoever let's go back into am mode here so now let's test the receive out so we're at 3.707 so i'll just turn my flute counter or my fluke signal generator to 3.707 megahertz here 3.707 megahertz i've got 10 microvolts coming out of my signal gen so i'll take this off of the uh the test set the piece of coax over here and i'll put this into my signal generator at the top and it looks like it's trying to receive i'll put a tone on it for a sec yeah it's trying to receive so that's on antenna a so let's try if i move this to antenna b it should go quiet and it's not there is no change between antenna a and antenna b which right there indicates an issue so i'll unhook the signal gen from antenna a i'll screw my adapter onto antenna b and we'll see if antenna b switches am on b now so b seems to be switching but antenna a seems to be jammed so that kind of indicates that there may be a stuck aperture inside of a relay back here somewhere or some relay isn't turning on or it hasn't been put back together properly so we have a bunch of a bunch of things that it could be so i am on the antenna b port let's take this off the signal generator and put this back into the dummy here and see if it will transmit on antenna b wouldn't that be something b here now we are on b yep our powers down to nothing am box transmit mode and nothing there either well that was wishful thinking anyways so well we know that the receive is switching on b but not on a so right now we already have a direction to go in because it should go quiet when we turn it to b and it's on antenna a so to me it's already sounding like there's a switching problem with some relays or something like that back there so at least we have a place to go it is trying to receive and uh which is a very good thing so we're off to a really good start so far it's just that we have no rf output so on to the next step we'll take the lid off and uh look at some of the uh switching and try and locate this issue see if it's uh see if it's just been put back together bad or whether it's actually uh something faulty back there here we are inside the top of this yaesu ft 1000 mp and i immediately noticed this relay in the back here has a hole pushed right through the top of it so i imagine that's why we're not getting our antenna switching action and notice that there's a a big solder glob right there i removed this one little rf jack so you could kind of see on here too it's just been thrown back together so that looks like a hole it's actually been melted with a soldering iron or something i can see the movement of the relay inside so i imagine that the plastic is probably jamming the movement so that obviously needs to get replaced so what i'm going to do is i'll probably cut the top of this relay off just to stop that from jamming the movement while i test this and then move on to the next issue and then of course when i find all the issues then i'll order up some parts another thing i noticed immediately is i noticed a squirrel cage fan here hear that it's binding on a black wire in here so whoever threw this back together didn't check anything out if that fan would have started up it would have argued through that black wire almost immediately i think that's the only thing it's binding on it could be binding on one of the end caps here or something too i really don't know and this is a pure example of what you get when you're dealing with non-virgin failures this is a product of somebody else and so is this so now i have to fix these extra two things also so it there's just a pure example it makes you wonder what else is haywire in here i see lots of scratching on the wires when i remove the screws out of the case you can tell that they've got lots of miles on them you can see in the tops of them some of them are stripped so these screws have been in and out of the case a lot so it makes you wonder how many times this has actually been apart so there's just a couple of things right you know just right from opening the lid immediately saw that because of course i'm looking by the the jacks on the back of the radio so there you have it so hopefully that's all of the the damage that i find in here i'm hoping that none of this is there is no more damage above and beyond this point so when i have some more to show i'll be back okay i've removed the squirrel cage blower here and it seems to move pretty freely it was rubbing on this black wire here just trying to argue a hole through this another nice little thing i've seen here is look at this screw it's threaded in sideways and that's tight it's uh this thing was just absolutely thrown back together there the light over here so that it will focus on it there you go so you can see how it's just threaded in completely sideways so it looks like all the wiring down here there's that you know tie downs and stuff that are supposed to hold the wires in place and these are just sticking straight up so they've been bent straight so nothing's been put back together properly the wires that are supposed to be in these clips are not in these clips the the clips have been delatched that's the reason that these wires are rubbing is because they're supposed to be you know inside here like so and then this is supposed to be clipped back together so it was really just thrown back together so i have a feeling that the person that threw this back together had a feeling this would never work anymore and it was just going to be a parts radio so i really don't know the story behind this but it's uh pretty rough so i'm going to remove the rf module right now and take a look underneath and hopefully i don't see any more scary things here we are with the rf module upside down it's just loosened off so you can see here it's probably good that this thing actually didn't turn on you can see this uh the screw how loose that is it's not even tight it's just you know it's just completely loose so you know things have really been botched back together here in a very very quick way so it's a really good thing that this hasn't you know actually powered on i was expecting this thing to actually be put back together properly but i'm imagining this whole thing is just you know loosely threaded back together at this point so i'm going to do is open up this cap and check it out inside and i'll come back with some more here we are in the final amplifier unit and the low pass filter unit inside this yaesu ft 1000 mp and immediately after opening the case i notice there's a wire just floating in mid air here just hang in there so i guess that's probably connecting into this socket over here just keeps getting better so now this is a row of relays in the low pass filter unit and this is another row of relays and there's two over here and what i usually do kind of normal protocols i'll remove all these relays carefully because this is a single sided board that has no plated through holes you got to be very careful that you don't lift traces or anything like that and of course you need a you know the proper tools to do that this hako 470 over here and i've got the 802 head down here it's kind of dark because i've got all my light focused on the radio here so i'll remove all these relays and test all of them and i'll test them on this device right here if you look for my relay testing video look for this little picture but with a green cross in the center of it and you'll see how i test relays so i'll end up doing that there and we'll get into the amplifier unit here so we'll look in the amp here this is where it gets really good get my light down here you can see he's lifted the base lead of this transistor here and he's trying to i guess you know do a gross failure test on these transistors or something like that you really can't test these properly this way you need to put them on a curve tracer test them in circuit even the diode test for 2sc 2879s uh doesn't yield very good results they'll test good on the diode test but they'll make one watt so they're just um you know you really need to remove these and test them he hasn't removed any of the emitter or collector leads on this he just lifted the base lead and it's just kind of tacked down roughly so i imagine that is probably just wanted to see if they're shorted but there's an easier way of doing that pretty much just uh test to see if there's any voltage on these two you know the positive and negative terminal the main power coming in and if there's no voltage there chances are they were shorted and it blew a fuse in the power supply or or it's shutting the power supply down so that's really you know this is an unneeded test you test them in service so we can see here there's a thermistor up here for some purpose usually thermistors are for fans in these amplifiers i'm not sure i haven't looked at the schematic yet but you can see it's not even touching the case of the transistor it's just kind of in mid-air so that thermistor is doing nothing this diode is still connected to the case with the thermal goo so that's okay we look over here now this one i lifted just before i did this video to see what the number of that transistor is down there kind of get an idea of what's going on you can see it this thermal goo made no contact to the case see the case of the transistor there's absolutely no thermal glue on it when i lifted it there was no contact so this is actually a diode here so this another you know temperature sensing unit that you used to shut it down with so so that diode is uh was really not really doing nothing this looks like an npn pnp pair to me i recognize these numbers these are found in cb radios okay i'm putting heatsink goop on it already i'm getting ready for it to be put back into service here from poking that thing there's goop on the end of my tool here so they look like an npn pnp pair or something like that probably a preamplifier section in here or something there's another one over here i'm not sure if this one's function and it has a diode that is uh this one i haven't touched and it's kind of floating here there's no goop under it so the topology of these amps is usually quite simple uh the rf comes in here and we can kind of see it says txn so that's really no rocket science down there txn and it comes through a preamp section and then it goes into this this is the base transformer for the 2sc 2879s and that comes out of this big transformer runs out this piece of coax and goes into this little jack here in the low-pass filter board so that's usually how these uh work you can see that he's opened these two leads here now this looks like this is in line with the transformer here so i imagine this is to set the idle current in the power amplifier and there's only one vr in here so that vr is most likely setting the idle current for these uh transistors here but i'll look on the schematic and verify that in the end if i've if i'm leading you astray at all i will correct this with notes in the end but i think it's pretty straightforward this is a piece of wire just kind of tacked in here and laying across the terminals like this it's just i don't know what's going on there just craziness so there's a whole bunch of crazy things going on inside this amplifier and make sure that i've kind of looked at everything in here you can see that these have been removed these uh two rf transistors and they've just been you know kind of soldered back in and nothing's been cleaned off or anything so i'll have to either retest all these or see how they work in service uh it's always a bad idea to leave resin or flux around the leads because little solder balls and such can get caught between leads and then when you least expect it they kind of roll when the circuit board gets hot and it shorts things out so you have to really clean all that stuff off this one here looks like it's been removed and just tacked back into into the spot there remove this little thing here you can see it's just been tacked back in so it's uh there's a lot of work to be done in here so lots of scary scary stuff so this unit here i'm gonna have to completely remove this and check under the board and see if there's any damage there or anything like that and of course this this board will come right out because i have to replace or not replace but to check all the relays and replace the ones that are possibly faulty if there are any so my next thing is this thing receives and we put it into transmit mode and there is no transmit so what's happening here is uh this lead is where the rf drive comes in into this board says txn my camera will focus here so what i'll do is i'll probe this lead or find where this lead exits on the board and probe this and see if there's any rf drive here and how i'll do that is i'll put it into transmit mode and i'll turn this rf power control up and down right here rf power control and i should see a variating amplitude and a signal coming out here at the frequency that's listed on the display and if there's varying amplitude and a nice clean drive signal here we can pretty much be assured that it's either something to do with this amplifier or some form of switching something isn't being turned on up here for some reason so that's where i'm at at this point and uh the next step will be to probe that to see if there's any rf there or whatever because as i say we have no transmit it seems like it's trying to receive but just know our vote so i'll get this all set up and we'll look at that next we're now at the point to where we're going to start to troubleshoot this radio and as i mentioned earlier we're going to see if there's any rf drive coming up through this cable and the easiest place to check that is the base lead of this 2sc 2166 so this is a schematic for that amplifier and if we look over here it says txrf this is where that rf signal is coming in that's that little jack with the orange cable in the back here so it goes through this little transformer assembly and threw a 0.047 microfarad cap into the base of the 2166 and that's where we have the scope probe lead tied off to so i only have two hands here so i have to kind of uh pre-plan this before i do this so this is clipped on and we're all ready to look to see if we have some rf drive at this point the radio is on so what i'm going to do is push manual operated transmit and i'm going to variate the rf power control down here and we'll see if we have any variation in amplitude on the scope so here we go there's our rf signal and i can variate it i'll turn it down here i'll turn it back up so at this point we know that we do have rf drive coming into this 2sc 2166 so now the next logical place to look would be on the actual collector here and see if we have a larger signal here because there should be amplification here there is nothing there on the collector okay i've already been there with the scope lead and there is absolutely nothing there in fact there is no dc voltage there at all either so if we have no dc voltage here this isn't going to work so if we follow this down through here we find out that we end up here and there is a a switch down here you can follow this right over to here and there's a voltage that runs in here comes along here down here over into this switch so if we look down here this little jack controls this switching circuit and that just so happens to be this wire here that's unhooked and that's what's supposed to be hooked up into this jack here in order to tell this amplifier to turn on now we need a positive signal on here if we look we see we have an npn transistor here so we need a positive at this t switch at the t-terminal here to turn this on and when this turns on through this 1k resistor it pulls the base lead of this pnp transistor low and allows the voltage to go through this transistor and up into this area of course going up into this area and into this collector of this transistor and it also feeds a regulator here which of course is regulated because this sets the bias there's a bias set down here for the final power transistors which happens to be that vr that i mentioned earlier so in order to see if this works we actually need to measure the voltage here now i'm not going to try and turn this thing on at all but i'm going to measure it and if there is no voltage here that's going to tell us that we need to start tracing back in the circuit and see why there is no voltage on this and why this thing isn't turning on this resistor here is just a pull-up resistor because there's voltage on this line and what happens is in order to stop this transistor from you know accidentally turning on there's a 10k pull up there which keeps the voltage on the base high and then there's a 1k underneath it which allows this signal to override that 10k resistor and of course this transistor here will pull the base low and turn this on so this is just basically to stop that transistor from false firing so the next thing we're going to do is i'll plug that in and i'll see if there's any voltage at that pin 2 there and if there isn't we're going to have to start tracing back down inside the rest of this unit and find out where that goes we're now going to look for some voltages in the rf power amplifier so the main power comes up through this red wire here and that supplies this rf power amplifier with voltage now this is a you know around between the 12 and 14 volt range usually is what's up in this wire here so we'll probe that and make sure that that's there first that red wire is the main power for this entire unit here so i'll look up at the voltmeter here and yeah we have 14 volts so that's okay so the second thing that we're going to do is check this little connector here again this connector is what tells this amplifier whether to turn on or not so this is basically the transmit signal comes up through here now if we look again at the schematic what we just tested on the schematic is the voltage at this point here this is the main positive supply so it runs along this rail and down through here and waits at this transistor for the signal to go positive on t and when we have a positive voltage on t it turns this transistor on and then it allows the voltage to pass and power up the various areas of this power amplifier so now one thing that's really odd about this whole thing is that this connector here with these two wires the red wire is the ground wire and the white wire is what carries the positive signal i swear they do this stuff on purpose so i'll poke my probe in here we'll look up at the voltmeter and i'll put it into mox mode and we have no change so i'll take it out of mox mode so now we're thinking uh oh we have no signal up here to tell this amplifier to turn on before we get too crazy and start searching through this entire radio when this radio came here you see this little blue switch right here if you open the door up on the top of your ft-1000 mp there's a little switch in underneath that door it's blue and if it's pushed towards the back it'll disable the power amplifier in effect stopping the voltage from going up through that cable it actually breaks the breaks that white wire in in these two connectors here okay so you need to make sure that this is forward like this so that way the wire basically can come through one connector and go right out the next so what we'll do now is we'll look back at that white wire in the back here okay i'll put my probe back in there again make sure that the rf power is down right at the bottom that's on the face of the radio we'll look up here and i'll put it into transmit mode push the mox button and there we have our voltage so you can see it's variating quite wildly it's very unstable okay and if i move my probe over to the actual main supply voltage it's quite stable so this is telling me that there's some voltage instability coming from another board in this radio that's really jumping around so i'll turn the rf power up here and see if we get any rf power that's full rf power right there is about two watts at the rate is actually sitting at 3.8 megahertz so it's pretty close so you can see it's at 5 watts for you can see the modulation levels jumping all over the place here you see the power is moving up and down so it really doesn't know what it wants to do so most likely the reason that this is doing this is there's very slight variation in the drive level right now so i'll take it out of mox mode let's let the radio rest here so what's happening is the voltage is coming up to this little white wire here from a board on the bottom this basically is derived from an ic on the control board and the voltage that's coming out of that ic must be variating in order to be variating up at this point because it's basically a direct connection all the way through the switch unless we have a bad switch or you know a bad wire somewhere but by me actually seeing the wattage bobbing up and down like that that pretty much tells me that the actual i'll just zoom out here tells me that the actual power supply is variating so we have enough voltage here staying around the 5 volt range and that's enough to keep this transistor on so we should have a stable voltage at this side of the transistor because as i say this is well this is supplying this with enough current to keep this pnp transistor switched in right now and what i'll do is i'll put my probe on the collector of that transistor and i'll see if i can put it into mox mode here move my lamp out of the way so now we're on the collector i'll turn it into mox and you can see how stable that voltage is because that voltage is just reflected from the main supply voltage from that 14 volt supply that we saw and that drop we're seeing is because it's going through a transistor right now so i'll turn this off so this is you know the transistor switched on that's the voltage that's actually getting to that 2sc 2166 in the corner that we were probing with the oscilloscope earlier that's on the collector of that transistor but yet the actual switch voltage is doing this so that tells us that there there is enough current there to keep that transistor in and it's pretty solid and the voltage drop is correct you know you usually have around 0.6 of a volt drop through a transistor so the voltage on the white wire is variating wildly yet the collector current of the driver transistor over here or the the drive collector voltage of the driver transistor is very stable so this little switch transistor here i'll see if i can zoom into it a little bit camera's on a funny angle here this little transistor here you can just see the head of it this transistor is staying on even though that this is variating again this is pointing towards another board and some power supply instability i imagine that maybe even with that the drive power might be variating just a little bit coming up into this amplifier that's probably what's causing all of this and of course the drive level is probably low and variating because we're only getting two maybe three watts sometimes five it just depends on what it feels like at that point so the next thing we're going to do is we're going to look at some of the power supply areas and find out where the actual signal is coming from on the control board and probe that area and chase our way back to the problem we're now on the bottom side of this yasu ft 1000 mp and this is the control board that we're looking at here right now this board here is what does a lot of the critical thinking inside this radio now this ic here is what is basically doing all the controlling and it's sending signals out into this q5014 which is a decoder ic and that decoder i see sends a signal out of pin 15 and pin 14 to tell this radio to either go into receive or transmit mode now those two little traces that come out of pin 15 and pin 14 come out of a lot of these ribbon cables and just random connectors here so it comes out of the the connector that's just underneath this one here comes out of this wire loom here which is another connector comes out of this ribbon cable here goes into this board goes through this ribbon cable into this board and it basically goes just all over the whole radio goes onto the upper side and everything so there's a lot of places in here that you know the signal could get screwed up if there is you know an actual problem with cabling or on the circuit board now one thing i have to do it you know admit that is kind of frustrating about working on these designs is that when yesu labeled these boards there is no correlation between the numbers on these boards that's listed here and that's really just kind of stupid so you can see here it says j5016 is this connector but we have that connecting to j2014 on a different board we have j5019 here connecting to j2013 would have been a lot better if they would have had j5019 connecting to ja5019 and j5016 connecting to ja5016 but no they have to have this ridiculous numbering system on the actual boards to have this you know interconnect and stuff like that they're nice enough to put i f here and i f in af and af and they tell you which boards are which by that you pretty much align the connectors here but when you're looking at the schematic it really does make things difficult now they have a really long number underneath that that you can correlate that's way longer than this number there's no need for any of that just do it all in one number it's very simple you know we don't have 5060 connectors on these boards here so you could start with connector number one and go to connector number a1 it would be very simple anyways this kind of stuff always gets on my nerves in these radios is just there's no rhyme or reason for that that's just completely stupid at any rate so here we have that's my rant for the day by the way so this is q5014 here and pin 15 and pin 14 are the pins that those signals come out of so now pin 15 is the transmit pin so if we keep an eye on the voltmeter over here i'll put my finger on the box which is the manual operator transmit mode i'll have to steady my hand here i don't know if i'm going to block the voltmeter that way i'll stay it over here instead okay and i'll put it into transmit mode and there we go and we can see that the voltage is variating right at that pin it's variating quite wildly so to put it back into receive mode so that transmit pin goes low in tran and when you're in receive mode and of course the receive pin is going to go high there we go the receive pin is high and it's variating just standing there so we know that the actual signals that are coming right out of this decoder ic are variating at that point so that the next logical place to look would be at the supply voltage for this ic and the supply voltage if i grab the piece of paper here the supply is pin 9 and pin 10 is ground so pin 9 on this ic here is the supply and you can see there's a little cap across it to keep any rf and garbage off it and we can see this one is ground so let's probe pin 9 of this ic and we can see that the supply voltage is variating all over the place it's 8.674 so the supply voltage is moving so the next thing that we're going to do is we're going to trace down the actual supply and find out why the supply for this decoder ic and probably a lot of the ics on this board are moving around let's see we have some 74 hc logic here so the standard protocol for the voltages on 74 hc logic ics is uh pin 7 is ground and pin 14 is positive so let's go to pin 14 and there's the 5 volt supply there and that's dead stable 5.01 and that's right within tolerance so that's absolutely fine so the 5 volt supply is really stable in here so now the supply for that area i believe is probably the 9 volt supply so what i'm going to do is look that up and i'll be back here we are back on the top side of the asu ft-1000 again and i've removed another shield in here and where another layer deep this here is the regulator board and this supplies all the voltages to all the various parts of this radio so if you recall on the bottom side of the board we were looking at that decoder ic and the main supply for that ic was fluctuating and that's a nine volt supply so this is the schematic right here for this regulator board and you see we have a nine volt supply here up here we have a nine volt supply here a five volt supply here these are just standard linear regulators there's a 13 volt supply here which comes out of this main box up here in the front that's the main power supply for this whole radio and then we have a dc to dc converter which is in a little shielded box that creates our negative nine volts that runs out that's pretty much what comes out of this out of this little regulator board so these two linear supplies are bolted right to the side here of the radio and this one here is the nine volt supply so what we're going to do is turn the radio on and probe that supply and see what kind of voltage we get on it so here we go radio's back on and i will probe that pin and we can see it's moving around up here pretty crazy too now that's right at the regulator output so let's go to the input and get my probe on that pin there there we go and it's stable no problems at all and then of course the output pin again it's moving all over the place so that's supposed to be nine volts so now this could be a problem in that actual regulator itself or it could be a problem on another board one of the other boards might have a an intermittent short or something that's just trying to short out or something that's just randomly pulling a little bit too much current now when we turn the volume up on this unit you hear that cracking and that popping in the speaker it's pretty pronounced it's really loud right there so that kind of leads me towards the af unit just for a chance what we'll do is we'll disconnect the actual af unit and we'll look in there so the af unit itself has two connectors there's one connector here j9010 and j9004 so what we'll do is we'll unplug both of these connectors which will completely cut the power to that unit and maybe even some power to other pieces of the radio because there is daisy chaining connectors all through here so what i'll do is i'll shut the radio off again i'm going to unplug the radio before i disconnect these connectors because these are the connectors down in here and we have a 120 volt ac supply here and you don't want to come across that so this connector up here is j9004 so we'll just disconnect this connector here and j9010 is this one back here with the blue wire just disconnect that so now we're not going to have any audio or anything so i'll plug the radio back in turn the radio on display still lights up normally and of course we have no audio that's full audio right there now i'll probe the positive pin of this regulator again and we'll check out the voltmeter and that's pretty much rock stable so now this these connectors daisy chain through this radio and go all over the place so this is uh this radio really is the king of daisy chaining connectors so there might be other connectors on that board that are connecting to even you know more boards and they might even who knows if they're almost making a full circle here so what we need to do is go onto the bottom side of the board again and of course you know find this corresponding connector again of course they'd have no you know they don't have a proper legend for these connectors so i'm going to have to look for this connector see where it enters and find its appropriate corresponding number on the other board and then at that point we'll be able to look on the schematic and follow the schematic and see where that nine volt line goes and if it goes to any other boards what we want to do first is we want to disconnect all the other boards and we just want to narrow it down to one board so the nine volts does go out in all sorts of different connectors here to other boards but this is just one board so so far we're at that board and if it's daisy chained to others as i say we're going to try and isolate it down to one board and that's what we'll do next here we are back in the bottom side of the radio again and i'm on the audio board i've disconnected this ribbon cable that goes over here to the if section just for the reasons being that the nine volts comes out of here and goes into this board here and i don't want it to leave this board i want to just see what's happening in this board and you can see we still have a pretty wildly variating voltage here it's 8.2 volts it's been up to 8.7 8.8 see it jumped up to 8.4 there 8.5 so it's still moving all over the place so the problem seems like it may be within this board here according to the schematic this is the only cable that the nine volt comes out of this board and then runs into this board here and that as you see has been disconnected that's just kind of floating here like this so this is where we're at we're down to 8.1 right now so so it looks like the problem could be here and that's what we're going to focus on now is this board right here what i've done now is i've removed this connector from the audio board here and this pin here this one that's in my alligator clip here came out of this connector here so what i've done is i've removed that from the connector with a small screwdriver you stick a jeweler's screwdriver into these tabs here i'll see if i can come in just a bit closer you can see these little tabs here if you lift these little tabs try and find my jeweler's screwdriver what you do is you just lift these little tabs just a little bit if you lift it too far you actually snap the tab off you don't want to actually snap these tabs off because they're what hold this in there's a little uh kind of like a dimple in here that locks this little connector in here what i did do then is i plug this back in this is the nine volt supply wire right here okay and then what i did is i hooked my current meter in line with it so i'll just plug this back in here like so and then i hook my current meter right here in line with it okay so i gotta hook this green lead back up to here and this is just basically running this through my current meter and then i'll put this in this little slot here and now i can read the current to this board so i can see that it's only drawing 325 milliamps or thereabouts now what i did also do which i couldn't do on camera but i also added a variating load to this and i watched the voltage on my other meter on the top there and i loaded this lead down this lead goes right to that nine volt regulator so i want i got to a certain point and then all of a sudden it just stopped and it went right back up to close to nine volts and it's staying there now so what that tells me now is that the actual regulator on the top is the intermittent part because now that it's been loaded at this point down here we can see it's only it's a steady 324 milliamps right now right just barely moving whatsoever that last digit means absolutely nothing there and if we look up at the voltage here now after i've loaded the unit i'll just probe the voltage at the terminal here 8.85 volts and it hasn't moved it's just dead on now it's not moving at all it's really stable it's actually looking really good at this point and that was from loading that regulator once i put a little bit of a load on it a little more than it was used to it made the regulator act somewhat normal again so at this point we can pretty much say that the regulator itself is intermittent i'll just shut the radio off here so we can pretty much say at this point that regulator is acting intermittent and uh it needs to be replaced so we'll go and replace that regulator and on to the next problem hopefully this is it though we're now back on the top side of the asu ft-1000 and i need to remove this regulator board to get this regulator out so in order to remove this board i need to take out this screw here this one here looks like it just holds this heat sink on and there's another one back here that holds the heatsink on and then there's one more i've got to remove here that attaches this this board here to the chassis now they're hiding one of the screws under the shield here so in order to get this board off i need to unsolder this glob here that's the dc to dc converter box and i also need to desolder over down here they've soldered it to the adjacent shield on this box here not on this particular box but on the box that goes around this so they have a glob here a glob here and a glob here soldering it on because dc to dc converters are just horribly noisy so they're doing all this to try and get rid of that hash from the receiver so once i desolder all that and then take out this screw down here i'll remove all the wires and there's one extra screw on the back side here where my finger is just below right here and that should allow me to remove this regulator board and replace this 7809 linear regulator so once i've got this board out and i'm working on the board i'll be back okay just a quick note here there is a little bit of an easier way to get this shield off you still have to disalter it from the top of this box but if you just remove the screws on this adjacent boards shield the entire shield will just come off so you don't have to actually desolder this from the side here you don't need to desolder this from from this so that makes things a little bit easier you just have to go after this one little spot now that i've got all the wiring looms removed and that shield removing get a little bit of a closer look at the board here so in order to get this board out we need to remove this screw here this screw here this holds the heatsink on we can leave this alone leave this one alone remove this one here and remove this one over here disconnect all of these wiring looms here disconnect these here all these wires across here this one here and then this little guy down in the corner and of course the ac supply and you're pretty much in at that point so now what we're going to do is get rid of this little troublemaker right here this is the regulator board out of the yaesu ft-1000 and this component here is the offending component this is a linear regulator the part number of this piece is kia 7809 this is the five volt linear regulator here it's an ha-17805 you'll notice that we have two different style packages here one's a to220 style just a standard to220 and this is a to220f package or sometimes known as the isowatt package now this package has a coating of epoxy over the entire package so you don't need to use a mica spacer behind it and it makes it quicker for you know quick runs on assembly lines it can put clips on these things and just clip them to the heatsink really quick and you don't have to worry about the placement of a mica spacer well these are both 78 series linear regulators which means that this is ground the actual tab is ground so it makes no sense for them to have an isolated regulator on this actual heat sink surface so the center pin of this regulator is ground on all 78 series regulators like this the center pin is ground and the center pin on on this 7809 or kia 7809 is ground also and this jumper right here that you can see you see that little jumper right there it's just joining the grounds so we've got this you know grounded here the center pins ground it goes through this jumper here over to here and attaches to this ground here and then just goes over to the ground that's on the heatsink tab here and also it it's grounded to the chassis of the radio right here so why they're using an isolated component makes no sense now it doesn't look like it's been changed or anything the the resin is the same kind of burn color as it is on here and around these little pieces right here we can see some resin it's all that kind of a dark brown color and it doesn't look like the board's been out because when i re-soldered the actual adjacent fence around the the other circuit board this spot doesn't look like it was actually tampered with or anything it looks like the original solder spot so the manual calls for an l7809 and this here is an l7809 and you can see that it has an exposed metal heatsink tab and that's what's going to go back in so somebody might be being really tricky and cleaned up their work and you know put this particular f-style package in here that might be the reason it failed because the thermal conductivity of this package isn't as good as the thermal conductivity in this package because we have an exposed metal surface on the back side of this package whereas this has to transfer heat through a thin layer of epoxy to this surface right here which of course creates a little bit more as i say thermal resistance so by having an exposed metal piece on a piece of metal here with some new thermal paste and when this gets installed back into the radio we're obviously going to put some thermal paste on this so it'll transfer the heat rate into the chassis of the radio hopefully this will make this regulator board last a really really long time this regulator under here is a dc to dc converter which is a switching power supply and it makes lots of hash and noise and that's the reason that they've put it in this box and they have an a separate rf ground here and this is a dc ground and an rf ground and of course it's soldered to the adjacent fence so this negative supply here is the negative supply for the nine volts and this is the positive supply for the nine volts here and that's pretty much that little regulator board and what's going to get done the regulator board is now done and ready to be reinstalled in the radio you can see the new 7809 here it's been tightened down and there's thermal compound behind it what i usually do is i clean off the excess thermal compound that's just kind of squished out when you tighten the part down is clean it off with a q-tip i also re-tighten the screws that hold the heat sink onto the board because over time these screws do get loose and even the screw that holds down this 7805 has been cinched up a little bit so they're all nice and tight right now from heating and cooling and from the radio being moved around and all that kind of stuff the screws do tend to back off a little bit these tabs here are where all the main wires from the power supply get tightened onto and the screw tension you know it's there's quite a bit of it there so when you're undoing these and re-tightening the screws sometimes there's a chance that you'll loosen up the joints on the back side of the board a little bit and it's the same with all the little pins in these little connectors so it's just good practice to resolder all of these so i've resoldered all of these and all the pins on these connectors here have all been re-soldered and there's another big connector here which goes to the amplifier it's been resoldered and don't forget to clean off the excess resin when you're done and make sure that you have no solder bridges or little you know solder balls bridging anything on the back side of the board and you're pretty much ready to go so this board is finished and ready to get reinstalled back in the radio the regulator board is installed in the radio again and is working very well there's some thermal compound between the heatsink and the case and it's working very well it's getting just gently warm there's a lot more transfer to the case i can really feel that now as i say just gently warm nothing's loomed nothing is put back together yet because we're still in test mode you also have to remember before you put these things back together to lift all these tabs up again so when you put the the actual brackets back in they make good rf connection so you got to make sure that these are all bent up nice a lot of the times they kind of get squished down so that's working good right now in the signal jenner we got 3.8 megahertz at 3 micro volts coming out and that's running into the receive section here and we can see that we've got three s units for three micro volts at 3.8 megahertz that's working very very well now we'll do is i'll remove my coaxial cable here and i'll put it onto the transmitter test set i'll shut this light off try and get a decent angle here that's quite a bit of reflection there bye all right it's in cw mode right now and i'll put it in mox mode make sure the rf power is down all right look at our frequency accuracy on the top there that's pretty good all right i'll turn the wattage up take note of the power 100 watts right on the nose that's maximum rf power it's 100 watts that was with this rf right to the top now we'll look at the scale here right on 100 watts right accurate what you would expect for a radio of this caliber so it's working very very well take it out of transmit mode 3.8 megahertz right on the button so the radio is finally starting to come back to life here again still the amplifier has to be cleaned up i haven't cleaned up the soldering in the amplifier yet and all that and we'll have to address this board here this board is a little bit of a sore spot so this relay also gets very warm at that continuous power and i don't like that so that'll be the next project it's getting closer this is the factory antenna board in this yasu ft-1000 we can see the relay here and this is the one that's missing because it was had a hole and it was damaged so i didn't put it back in because we just did those measurements and this is the little port that powers the board up pretty simple we got ground we have the signal which is either high or low and we have the 13 volts positive which supplies the voltage for the coils to actuate or not and the relay logic on this board is really simple they're both on or they're both off and uh how that's determined is if this pin goes high you know if the control board sends a high signal to this pin right here both relays get told to get turned on and they use the 13 volts here to turn them on and if this goes low it lets off and both these relays return to their off state so when these relays are both in their off state antenna b is grounded and antenna a is connected to this jack when they when they're both in their on state okay antenna a is grounded and b is connected to this jack pretty simple and uh that's how this really operates this little coil here to keep rf from going back into the jack they've labeled this coil at 100 micro henrys which is incorrect this coil is uh one micro henry 1.4 actually so uh anyways i i thought that was kind of odd that does not look like 100 micro henry so i had to measure it but unless they're you know figuring what kind of witchery are they doing here's something that i haven't seen before but sure enough nowhere near so this is uh a diode here basically just snubbing for the coil here and uh you know to keep the as the actual aperture inside the coil lets off it creates a voltage spike and this little diode just stops it from attacking the transistor there's a little cap across here to keep rf off the dial out of the coil here and it's the same thing for this exact same thing for this relay so look on the other side of the board here we can see the track for the rf the rf comes here center conductor goes into this relay and over here into this relay unequal lengths not quite sure why they're doing that uh doesn't really make sense to me we see that both of the the jacks that run out to the antenna are you know this one's longer than this one too so this is a much longer path here to the antenna than this one so uh i should actually probably stick this relay here in this port and retry it and see what the swr is just for uh for giggles this is a much you know there's a lot less lead on here going out to here so what higher frequencies uh actually antenna a may be more affected by swr not quite sure at this point for giggles i might just move this over here and try it again so this is a switch transistor here this switching transistor is basically just receiving a signal from the center pin here runs right into the base this is uh two rf decoupling caps taking rf off the base and the collector lead of this transistor the emitter is just grounded so very simple we'll look at the schematic here in a second i removed this cap here in order to test this inductor because uh that what they rated it was a little bit eyebrow raising there that's pretty much this board so the whole idea is to make this a little bit more resilient to high swr because you got to remember if you're transmitting you're doing cw before the antenna actually tunes the radio it sees high swr this does anyways for a very brief period of time until it tunes the whole system so you know these are pretty small they're rated at two maybe three amps maximum and you gotta realize it you know you're you're firing uh 150 watts of uh power into this relay you know on uh at least on sideband there's quite a bit of pulsed power there and then uh it'll put 100 watts of carrier out through this little teeny relay here and uh and at high swr conditions that sometimes will weld you know contacts together and i've heard that there is a this board is a little bit of a sore spot so what we're going to do is take that teeny little relay and use these relays instead much larger device as you can see and contacts rated at 10 amps so a much much better much better relay much much larger so the whole idea is to make these relays work and maintain a low swr on this board right out to the actual jack so what we're going to do is actually make strip line on this board and have it go right to the jack instead of having open free air jumpers like this we'll actually design it like it should be designed and have strip line running right to the jack and this is close to the so2 39 as we can get it without having free air jumpers they didn't even put the extra grounds on this board so i guess why they figured they didn't need it maybe that's the reason that this board is a bit of a sore spot so that's what we're going to do next in just a second here i'll grab the schematic and we'll look at the schematic this is the antenna unit schematic or antenna switchboard schematic in your yaesu ft-1000 this board is located right behind the two antenna jacks on the rear of the radio and these are both so239s and this is what that little board looks like right here there's one really missing so these are both relays here and this is the little switching transistor that's on the bottom side of the board you can't see it from looking at the top side of the board and this is the jack that controls all of that this is marked a nt but no antenna is connected here this is the jack that goes into the radio and these are the antenna jacks here and this is how this board works so when you turn your radio on 13 volts is applied to pin 3 here all the time it goes through this inductor and into the positive side of both of these relays both these relays are hooked in parallel so they both turn on at the same time and they both turn off at the same time both the negative sides of these relays are both also tied together and they go to the collector of this transistor so if an2 goes positive say you've selected antenna b this will go positive it turns this transistor on actuating both of these relays if an2 goes low say you've selected antenna a again there's no voltage at this point now the transistor turns off and both of these relays return to their normally closed state so now these capacitors here are to take rf off the collector and this capacitor is here to take rf off the base of the transistor so that it doesn't affect this and cause it to false fire or do something crazy these diodes are here to suppress the spike when the magnetic field collapses on these relays so when this transistor turns off the field collapses and this sends a spike out this diode suppresses that spike so that it doesn't affect this transistor and cause a transistor to fail these capacitors are also here for rf purposes they're both across each one technically they only needed one snubber diode but they have two here this one here is you know they're both hooked in parallel right so you only really need one diode but for some odd reason they're running too uh the caps would both need to be here to you know to be across the coils for rf reasons so these they've drawn these relays in a really confusing manner and i don't agree with this particular drawing of a relay whatsoever just more unneeded confusion again never at any time do both of the contacts touch each other and uh or all three of them in this case look like they're touching each other that's not how the relay works but i'll try and explain this as easy as i can so if you picture a normal relay contact picture this finger as the black contact picture this finger here as the white contact and picture this center as the actual arm okay so when the relays aren't actuated they're in the normally closed position which is this lever is touching the black arrow right now so there's no voltage on this board whatsoever so really this lever here is touching the black arrow right now on both relays okay when you apply voltage to the relay the lever does this to the white arrow so never at any time do these ever touch because these are the contacts they're fixed right the the lever moves back and forth between the two so the coil is not energized the coil is energized that's how it works so when it's not energized the lever touches the black contact so we're going to say that this isn't energized right now there's no voltage on this board so if we were to transmit a signal what would happen is the signal will go down this line up here into this black contact the lever would be touching the black contact so it goes out antenna a we would also notice the signal goes down here into this relay but there's no connection here because this is touching the black contact so antenna b is grounded so in effect right now with no power on the board antenna a is connected to here and antenna b is connected to ground so now say we put a positive voltage on a n2 and there's 13 volts here if we put a positive voltage on a an2 this transistor turns on pulling both the negative sides of these relays towards ground or within 0.6 of a volt of ground because the the the transistor here will only pull it down to 2.6 of a volt okay or around that anyways without getting into the theory of transistors right now so say it's on so what will happen now is the rf will come down here go down here and it'll go through the white contact because the white contact is now touching the arm right because the arm's up with the white contact and it goes out antenna b and if we look at here the arm is also touching the white contact right now so antenna a is grounded so all it's really doing is just switching like this and of course the antenna port that's not being used is tied to ground and that's how they've set the schematic up and this how this little board here works so it's relatively simple so the board that we're going to design and try to improve the dependability of this section of the radio we'll use larger relays and they'll have to work on a little bit of a different premise so what's going to happen here is one relay will be on and one will be off and then when you hit antenna b the other one will do that so it'll go back and forth so there'll always be one relay energized in this circuit and i'll get into explaining how that's going to work here quite shortly this is the new antenna switching circuit for the asu ft-1000 now it's only this little piece right here nothing uh you know behind my hand is included this is from an old video this is my doing math with fire video uh in response to uh applied science there but uh this is the only area we're gonna focus on here so a pardon the mess behind uh as i need more breadboard i kind of strip parts off and they go back into their drawers and stuff like that so uh what's my excuse uh i'll say uh too many projects too little time yeah i'll stick with that so this is the area right here a little bit more complex than the factory circuit the factory circuit uses only one transistor this uses three and that's because the relay action has changed what i'm going to do is i'm going to try and take you through the entire journey of my thought process in designing this antenna board so there's going to be a little bit of rf work in here and stuff like that too so uh you know we're dealing with dc voltages and we're also dealing with impedance we're dealing with things called standing waves uh we're dealing with inductance uh you know we'll talk a little bit about strip line and stuff like that i'll try and keep this brief but i'll include the most amount of information that i can if i forgot something forgive me please just uh include something in the comments if you have a question about anything and i'll try and answer it to the best of my ability so the switching action of this has changed now in the factory uh yaesu circuit both relays come in when you select antenna b and then both relay coils let off when you select antenna a and uh their switching action is is a little bit different now i've chosen a bit different switching action just because of the relays their size and the way that they work and dealing with the internal structure and the makeup of the relay and i'll get into explaining that uh here in the in the near future is just uh let's focus on this little area first so this is reverse logic also just to confuse matters a little bit more and that also has to do with the relay structure so this is the relay b coil and this is the relay a coil now relay b is also the antenna b port and relay a coil is also the antenna a port okay so when i turn the uh turn the yaesu ft-1000 on of course it will remember what relay is selected or what antenna port i should say what antenna port is selected before you turn the radio off so say it just defaults to antenna a so if it defaults to antenna a the antenna really b coil will come on and what happens is when the and the relay is on it's grounding that antenna port so it kind of works in the opposite way so if you've selected antenna a antenna b relay comes on and grounds the antenna b port and the antenna a path is will be through if you select antenna b the antenna a port will be grounded and and and the b will let the signal through and that's how it works now that's a little bit confusing because it's a bit backwards but uh that's to do with the way that the relay is made and uh and i'll explain the thought process and that uh involves me dissecting one of my relays now the relays that i'm using are these ones here they're pretty large relays the contact rating is 8 amps in the normally closed position so that's when the relay's at rest and in the normally open position it's 10 amps that's when the is pulled in there's a little bit more contact pressure when the relay's in because you have a magnet holding the two contacts together so the contact uh the amperage rating is up a little higher but you're just dealing with a spring tension when it's in the normally closed position that is the relaxed position so that's when the contact is just let off so the contact rating is a little bit lower they're the same contacts it's just that there's more contact pressure when the relay is applied so that's how that works so this is a an 8 amp uh replacement for a 2 amp really relay that was in there so this will deal with uh you know standing waves a lot better and the relay still stays quite a bit cooler and there's a whole you know bunch of ops to using a larger relay in the circuit that's the reason that we're changing this i understand from a few people that that board is a real sore spot so why not get rid of it and make this thing dependable so that's the whole idea of this circuit so now again in the factory circuit i'll just explain this quickly again a pardon the horrible lamp i'm working under my microscope here the other bench is full of taken apart jesus ft-1000 it's strewn all over the place so i'm kind of reduced to this little area dealing with a space about this much under my microscope here to display everything so i'll try and make this is uh as good as i can here so an2 here an2 is where the signal comes in from the control board so if you select antenna b and 2 goes to 4.9 or you can just call it 5 volts logic level 5 volts if you select antenna a this goes low to 0 volts so if if you select antenna b this turns this transistor on and both relays come in if you select antenna a this transistor shuts off and both relays let off uh one quick note you'll notice inside this transistor here we have a 10k resistor and a 47k resistor so the 47k resistor just keeps this transistor off if an2 floats and of course the 10k resistor is just in line with the base here for you know current limiting purposes so uh they've mislabeled this uh l8701 uh uh inductor here this is to keep rf off the 13 volt line they was rated at 100 micro henrys you can see here it's actually 1.4 i measured it because it looked a little odd there's no way that one uh one loop through a ferrite bead could make 100 micro henrys so uh sure enough it's 1.4 so i don't know if they made a mistake in their manual or in their writing here or something like that but um i don't know if i mentioned that earlier i may have i'm doing this in parts here so i might be repeating some short things here so that's how this factory system works now this circuit here works a bit different only one relays in at the time like i explained earlier and i'll show you the power supply i'm using here this power supply up here is hanging on the bottom of my text scopes here this is the 13 volt supply supplied to the radio so when you turn the radio on this is basically what goes all over the radio that 13 volt supply this is the 5 volt supply and that mimics the signal coming up from that ic on the control board that tells this circuit to do its is state change okay so there's a very little current required to uh to change the state of this uh of the switching action here uh it takes about 500 micro amps or around that i think it's 450 microamps to make this change so we're dealing with under 0.5 of a milliamp so it's it's very very light and it will also change state rate down to about 0.8 of a volt and this will switch back and forth now if you wanted these are this is a bc 807 transistor this is a pnp transistor and these are two bc 817s i prefer using these over the 2nd 3904 3906 complement or the 2n229 complement just because these are really i've got lots of them first of all 4 000 of each of them and the bc 807 is a really sensitive transistor it's a it's a nice transistor in this circuit if i use a 2 and 3 six in this circuit it takes about four to five hundred microamps to turn it on whereas this only takes a hundred microamps and that allows me oops allows me to do some resistance changes in this circuit here i'm using 1206 parts on the circuit board that i'm that i'm going to build for this so obviously the the wattage values of the resistors matter this one here would would have to be up around a 1k or so with everything that i've chosen here if i want to use a 2n3906 and of course this is going to dissipate some heat at that point and this is a quarter watt so now i can go down to you know 2.7 k and it's uh you know the quarter watt resistor basically dissipates no heat of course there's a lot of math involved you can work out the wattages and stuff and or you can actually keep this pretty simple and just use common sense when you're designing this kind of stuff if you've designed a lot of transistor circuitry a lot of this just stuff just comes naturally you know just what to place where and all this kind of stuff and if you feel a resistor getting warm that means that it's dissipating wattage so you know you can measure the current in line with that resistor and work work out the wattage or you know measure the drop whatever you want to do to measure the actual wattage of the resistor needed if a quarter watt resistor stays dead cold to the touch i know i'm going to be absolutely fine with the 1206 part now when i design something i design it to last i don't want anything to be on the verge i don't want warm parts so when i design stuff as i say i like to design it and not see it again so when this is finished i'm i expect never to see this circuit again aside from if something else in the radio's design itself goes wrong so that's a really good ideal to carry around when you're designing something because you know of course when you design something you just want it to be dependable you don't want it to fail uh unfortunately manufacturers don't think the same way because there's bean counters in there and the bean counters they uh they limit all of the uh uh you know the expenditures so they're they're scrimping and saving on every little component i don't have to do that so i can over build things and that's just my the way that i do things hence you know using 8 amp relays in place of a 2 2 amp relay so here we go so this is how this works so the signal comes in from the an2 and that will tell this thing to switch now as mentioned earlier this is relay b coil and this is relay a coil now i'll turn on my power supply here and uh if the radio is defaulted to receiving when transmitting through the antenna ajac the antenna b jack has to be grounded and that's what this is doing right now so if you press antenna b on the uh on the front of the asu ft 1000 of course it's going to switch its action and then of course now we've grounded antenna a and antenna b is now letting the signal through and that's really just how simple this circuit is so you can see the switching action is nice and solid there all these leds are doing is just indicating the the action of the relay coil for you know basically video purposes here and if you're building a circuit you can actually use leds to be a little bit of a reference to yourself also they they work pretty well as test gear too so uh that's a i think another video within itself so that's how this is going to work here now you're thinking of course this is reversed uh a logic action here i could have done it the other way and it probably would have simplified things and then of course when the radio is turned off uh both of the antenna ports would be grounded and you know there's a bunch of ups to that well now we're dealing with the actual relay structure itself inside and that's the reason that i went with this kind of reversed logic pattern and when i come back i have a dissected relay i have enough of these relays so i've dissected one of them and i'll show you all the thought considerations that i've had before i've designed the circuit in order to to make the best circuit possible all right this is one of the relays that i'm using this one is completely disassembled it's had seen better days this one this is the little arm inside of this relay that is on top of this coil and of course this is just a really put together this is what it looks like when it hasn't been opened up so now this relay here is rated at eight amps and that's of course with this contact in here like so and it's of course in its off state so that it's that's connected to this upper contact here all right the lower contact is rated at 10 amps because you have the the tension of the actual coil itself pulling this arm down and and putting tension on that contact so we get about 10 amps of contact rating there whereas as i say only eight in the normally closed position now the reason that i have this running in reverse logic is because this aperture here that's connected to this contact there is no isolation in this aperture so you can see this pin here on the back of the relay let's try and get this in the center of the screen here this pin here runs right up through the back side here and then this of course is connected directly to this arm like so all right and that arm goes through and then the signal comes out the other side you'll notice that right below it the magnetic aperture that pulls this arm in will make contact to this arm so i'm going to deal with a a piece of metal that's going directly in the middle of this coil here and i don't want to have that in my rf path and that's the reason that these are working in reverse so when this relay is actuated this arm is grounded and when this relay is not actuated of course this is floating so this is up and it's not touching this metal aperture here and it's making contact to the upper contact in the normally closed positions and that's the position it will be carrying rf in so that's one of the considerations and this is kind of why you have to tear down relays you have to know what's inside of them before you want to design with rf it's not like designing something with dc or just you know low frequency ac like 60 cycles or something like that now this piece of metal here that's the magnetic surface is isolated from this coil there's quite a thick piece of plastic between here so you wouldn't have to worry about any you know you know at 100 watts or 150 watts you wouldn't have to worry about any burn through or anything like that but still when this if you have rf on this contact when it's pulled in that rf is not only going through this and coming out the contact on the other side but it's also going right down the center of that metal aperture through the center of that coil bobbin and we don't want that because that's going to add extra inductance at high frequencies and you know it might cause a little bit of an swr might probably going to get some reactants there so we want to stay away from that and i don't want to have to second-guess this when i put this together i'm not don't want to experiment with that and find out how that's going to work so it's better just to use it in the reverse state and just completely avoid that problem altogether now there's a bit of a gap there's not a whole lot of a gap between this when it's in its normally closed position when this is up so when this is up of course it's going to be further away from this little metal plate if my finger was this middle aperture here when it's up of course it's going to be away right so it's about the distance of a couple of sheets of paper but uh you know when that's really converted into picofarads we're you know dealing with very very low capacitance this is floating to begin with so it's not really attached to anything and it's insulated from the coil so there's a bunch of bonuses in running the rf in the normally closed position of this relay and that's the reason that you dissect a relay when you're going to use this nrf so of course when you're building any kind of rf circuit you kind of have to understand the way that it works in the way that different frequencies operate and stuff like that and this is all stuff that has to come into play so when you have a dark coated relay like this this could be put together any old way inside you really just don't know so you have to buy one as an experiment and destroy it now if this was going to be running you know 100 watts at say three megahertz only i wouldn't be so concerned about that but uh you know our ft 1000 goes comfortably up to 29.9 megahertz and uh you know no problems and that little bit of extra inductance uh in the center of that coil and of course having this coil energized and both of these coil pins are dragged r up to rf ground with capacitors uh we're going to probably start to see some issues there so that's the reason that uh that i've used this in kind of a reverse logic pattern so next we'll take a look at the actual relay on an analyzer and we'll look at the relay in its normally open position because that's the position we're going to be using it in to pass rf as i say when it's closed this lever will just be grounded so it won't really matter and we'll look at the relay and see how it responds to different frequencies so we're now ready to see what this relay looks like at rf frequencies and i made a little mock circuit attached right to the relay as close as i can get to the contacts to mimic it when it's in the circuit board okay so now the circuit board's still going to be better than this still yet but you know if we get good results here we can expect really good results when it's in the circuit board so this is the same connector that's in the yaesu on that antenna board i have a 47 ohm dummy load across the relay here so that this is terminated to the contact here and i've got uh two rfd coupling caps across the coil here attached just to the to the ground here so i've got the corresponding connector right here on my mfj analyzer and i'll just plug this in and we'll take a look at this relay so what we're looking for here is uh we want you know x equals zero the lowest amount of reactants we can get and we want a standing wave ratio that's uh 1.0 to one and or of course our resistance is what the resistance of the resistor is so anywhere between this and 50 ohms would be absolutely great so now this box is modified mhg259 i can take this right down into the kilohertz like right now we're at 521 kilohertz and it's still fine down here but that's pretty much telltale if it's good at one or two megahertz it's going to be good down here okay so i'll go back up here again we're at 2 megahertz absolutely fine okay we're at 4.7 absolutely fine x equals zero impedance 46 ohms swr standing wave ratio is 1.021 we're at 11.9 still absolutely fine now we're at 30 megahertz which is just above the top end of where the asu goes the ft 1000 goes now you can see our swr is absolutely flat uh we have x equals two so a little bit of reactance in there and the resistance or the impedance is 50 ohms okay now that's because this is hanging out in open air so there's no strip line on this there's no you know it's not on a shielded pad or anything like that so i can kind of mimic that a little bit by just pinching this against the machine using the machine as kind of a ground plane and you can see we get our response back again so it's not really hanging in open air anymore so if i go up to say 68 megahertz we're still doing fine completely flat 1.0 to 1 x equals 0 and 51 ohms this is this relay is really good to go this is well beyond where this relay needs to be so we can see here that you know everything is absolutely fine we basically swept this relay and with a dummy load on one end of it and the relay looks like you know a nice clean pipe for the rf to travel through there are no kinks or bumps in it and that's basically what swr and all this other stuff does if you have high swr and stuff like that there's bottlenecks somewhere and there are no bottlenecks the last thing we want to do is use the antenna tuner in the yaesu ft-1000 to tune our circuit that would be absolutely horrible so i know now that these relays are very good and i can use these relays and all sorts of different kinds of rf applications and uh of course i will make a data sheet and put this with the relays so next time i don't have to do this over again i've just recently picked up these relays and i picked up a whole tray of them so i'm doing uh doing pretty good with some rf switching relays so i've done this before i started even with that schematic or the uh the actual little breadboarding circuit i did this way before that or before i even started on the circuit board or anything it's a very first thing i did because if this really does not work good at our frequencies i don't want to design a circuit around it and then have it fail and then of course i've done all that work for nothing so this was one of the very first things i did but now i'm just illustrating it to to show you here that this is one of the a very very necessary procedure if you're going to make any kind of antenna switch with any kind of a relay so now we'll go take a look at the the layout and the schematic and i'll show you how the the actual circuit works this is the new antenna switching circuit for the yeezu ft-1000 and this is how it works so say your radio is defaulted to antenna a all right so when you turn your radio on it just it's in the antenna a position okay you turn your radio on this lead is low this is a n2 this is low because this only goes high when you select antenna b so this is low right now as soon as you turn your radio on 13 volts is present here it goes up here into the coils of both of these relays also goes down here turns this transistor on and keeps this transistor off so now that we're in antenna a position all right antenna b pulls to ground and antenna a is left alone and our path is through antenna a okay so now we select antenna b we that means that this goes high this bc 817 pulls this low this transistor shuts off this transistor turns on selects antenna a relay pulls it down okay so now antenna a is grounded and antenna b is active we can see the path is up through here and into antenna b and that's just how simple this circuit works so the circuit doesn't draw very much whatsoever 34 milliamps and there's always one relay on when the relay's on it'll either be b or a and uh it's a you know that the relay coil current is extremely low so the circuit itself hardly draws anything it takes only 450 microamps at five volts to turn this on which is basically factory for the the stock circuit board in there so everything on here is uh you know ready to go this is the final schematic i've added one extra point zero one from here to ground and there are a couple of more point zero ones probably added these are for just for rfd coupling and you can never have too much of that you want i don't want to have to go in here and search for any kind of rf issues and these things are cheap enough so i'll just i'll pepper them with uh with rfd coupling caps and that way it'll be good so you know there's the coupling caps across the transistor and from base to ground on each one and uh just to keep rf out of these places so uh one thing i haven't illustrated in here is there's an inductor they had a 1.4 micro henry inductor in there and i will add this into the line it's already added into my layout i just don't have it illustrated here so there will be one inductor here and an extra point zero one to ground if you could picture that off of this schematic here and that's really how this works pretty straightforward so this should be very dependable and we've already looked at the relays the relays are good to go so we've got a good antenna switch in the making here i finished the layout for the rf switching board or the antenna board in the yaesu ft-1000 and this is what i came up with here of course this is blown up on the screen quite a ways you know it's really you know small and in real life but this is blown up so that i can work on it so now we'll see here the green layer is the top layer and the black layer is the bottom layer this is where the two relays sit here and here this is where the rf jack is here and this is where the signal comes in right here okay i'll just get rid of the the bottom layer here and this way we can see what's going on on the top layer so this here is where the signal comes in all right or goes out this goes right up to the so239 jax this is micro strip line and it's uh you know tailored to be as close to 50 ohms as possible now the two so239 jacks on the radio great care was taken to you know keep these two uh mounting holes in the perfect spot so these will go right underneath those two so239 jacks so when this board fits in the so239 jacks will the center conductors will sit right on top of this strip line and it will get soldered directly to it and then of course the relay will select either to put that to ground or to feed this into this terminal here which is the rf jack which runs out to the inside the radio here so we'll look at the bottom layer now get rid of this layer so now we're on the bottom layer and this is where all the components are we can see here that we have more strip line here micro strip line and then on the top that's the the ground plane for this one the signal comes in the jack here in his dead center and this is again 50 ohms so cut as close to stay at the 50 ohm impedance as possible this here is as i say signal inner signal out to the radio and then this here again is running up to the two so239s this is an2 this signal is what tells this little transistor right up here whether to turn this relay on or to turn this relay on this is the pnp transistor here and this is the npn transistor here that you know controls the the coils will drag the coil to ground either one will so the uh this is the the choke that i didn't add in on the schematic it's a 1.4 micro henry choke here i'll just show you what the joke looks like that's the little choke here i'll focus in on my hand there it is all right that's the little 1.4 micro henry choke that'll just solder right on there like so all right and that will fit right here all of these are 0.01 mic decoupling caps rfd coupling caps are everywhere you can see they're all 805 parts these are our 1206 these ones here so the signal goes in here through the 10k resistor up into here there's a 47k to ground and right into the base of this bc 817 all right and then we have uh on the pnp there's a 1k resistor across here and then there is a 22k resistor across here to this uh bc817 this is the 807 this is the 817 here and these are the two diodes it's a snubber diode across the coil and it's you know relatively simple it's almost pretty much done at that point so i do the toner transfer method with my printer and i'll put this circuit board together do the sandwich thing so i have the the top layer and and then i align them on a fresnel lens i have a light shining through a fresno lens and i line both layers on that and then i slide the circuit board in between them and stick them through my special laminator to make these circuit boards and that's how i get my circuit boards so i'll do that step next and populate this and we'll try it out in the radio and see how it works the pc board is done i haven't populated it yet but i'm just laying it in the chassis to see if everything lines up and it looks like everything is pretty much spawn on you can see where the so239s are just going to solder directly to the micro strip line here and if you shut the lights off you can kind of see the hole centers are pretty much absolutely perfect there so it just bolts to the existing areas and then of course it'll have a little bit more support because it'll be soldered directly to these jacks here so the next job is to populate this board i'm now ready to populate this board and usually what i do is i work this way so what i do is i pick the component up in the tweezers like so and i'll put them on the pad and of course i use some ra flux so i'll dab some ra flux on there and then i come in with the soldering iron and i you know work this way so i usually work this way here i'll work this way and if i have components that mount the other way i'll just rotate the board because it's much easier to to work like this so i'll zoom out here you can kind of see i'm i'm sitting here so when i'm working it's much easier to come in like this than it is to you know kind of go like this right so that's what i do and then as i say if i have to mount any components like this i'll work this way so the lights kind of making it really bright there so you can kind of see i'm i'm working like so so what i'll do is i'll populate this board i'll put all the components on it and then we'll try it out see how it works the new antenna switching board for the asu ft-1000 is now fully populated you can see the switching transistors here and the 1206 resistors here this is that 1.4 micro henry choke these are the diodes across the coils of the relays they don't really need to be this big it's just that i have so many of them i figured i'd use some of them up these are the rf bypassing caps all over the place you're kind of peppered with them that's the underside and then of course on the top i installed the jack out of the other board so that you know the radio will just plug into this with these and you can see the little rf jack here this little rf jack is i've got a bunch of these so i just put another one in i left the old one in the in the old circuit board so you can see the difference in the boards here this jack runs off sideways this one here runs this way but there's so much cable it really doesn't matter can come around the corner and there's still a lot to spare so i did that of course to keep it in the center here so that there's equal length to each relay and this is pretty much you know it's moved over just a little bit but again there's lots of wire there so i'm not really too worried about it so i'll probably solder a ground to this portion here from the back of the radio of course this is the strip line that'll be right underneath the so2 39s there so i'll see how that goes but that's the new board and it's now ready for installation the new antenna switching board is now installed it worked out quite nicely everything fit just perfectly these screws went in nicely and the micro strip line is lined up perfectly with the so239 jacks so you can see that the the wiring here still isn't tidied up and that's because the final amplifier and low pass filter unit is still upside down and i kind of need this extra loose wire here in order to move it around so no rf is fed through this it's ready to get tested in the end and we'll go through and make some performance checks on this in the end but first i'll explain what i've done here and i'll also show you how to set up the uh the 2sc 2879s the rf final amplifiers idling current all right so this section here has all been tested all the relays have been tested everything's fine i've gone through here tightened up all the screws loomed the wires properly got things tied up in this area so everything in this area here is a okay ready to go the load pass filter unit absolutely fine this is done this amplifier here was a lot of work uh just because it was so messed up so i had to spend a lot of time in here a lot more time in here than i spent in here that's for sure so where do i start uh we'll start with the thermistor okay remember in the beginning video remember the thermistor is kind of sprung up well obviously can't sense temperature that way and of course the thermal goo is let go and everything there so the goo doesn't actually hold it down it just sits there and then this stuff sits in this it's actually a putty a thermal putty that it sits in and i'll explain all that here quite shortly so if you're a thermistor is sticking up or if you have to test it because this one here is what turns the fan on and off this water wheel or paddle wheel or squirrel cage or whatever you want to call it this little fan here that thermistor there is what turns this on so if this guy is not sensing temperature if it's not pressed right against the ceramic case of that 2sc 2879 it's not going to sense temperature properly because you got to remember heat rises this thing is actually upside down so that thermistor is hanging down as heat's rising so it's not going to turn on correctly and that's why there has to be that thermal putty between the two components so if yours is lifted up or if you had to lift it up to test it and it goes the same goes for the diodes that go across the cases of the to220 style transistors here how you retention that down is very simple of course there's no power on the radio at this time what you do is you push your finger down on the thermistor package push it right onto the body of the 2sc 2879 of course and of course there's new thermal putty on at this time right so you're going to get a little bit on your fingers so you're pressing this down against the package get an insulated tool of some sort of course there's no power in here anyways but you still want to do that plastic tools are a little bit more gentle on things push down on it so there's tension between the thermistor and the body of the transistor stick this under the legs of the thermistor and pry the legs up just a little bit of course using common sense you're not going to pry the legs off the circuit board or pull them out of the thermistor but you're just going to bend them up a little bit and that'll put some down pressure spring tension on the thermistor and the thermistor will then stay against the body of the 2sc 2879 so you won't have to worry about it it'll keep itself pressed there and that's what you need to do so make sure as i say the thermal putty's on first because if you go trying to shove thermal putty under there you're going to lift it up again okay same goes for the diodes push the bot the diodes against the body of the transistor and lift the legs just a little bit on each side again using common sense don't pull them off the board or out of the out of the diode and then once you're done let your finger off and there'll be down tension on that diode pressing against the body so this thermal putty there's a bunch of different kinds of thermal putty and you need to make sure that you have the right stuff all right if you don't you want to be very careful about saving the stuff that's in here because the stuff that's really common is really runny and you can't use that for this this stuff is designed to stay gooped on the top of these transistors and stay there if you use the runny stuff when the transistors get hot or the amp gets hot it's going to get soft and drip into the lid so you got to remember again this is upside down right so it's going to drip into the lid and you won't have very good thermal conductivity between the components on the top of the transistors in the transistor so you want to save that stuff if you find that it's dry and it's chunky if you have some of the more uh the wet stuff that it doesn't have a very thick consistency is i guess you could almost call it the normal thermal compound take just a very little bit and i'm talking not very much at all just just the littlest amount of your fresh thermal compound and mix it in with the old stuff and like magic this stuff will just it like it almost liquefies it again and it comes right back to life again so that's what you want to do use very little of the new stuff the runny stuff and mix it in with the old cakey stuff or the putty style stuff and remix it up and use it over again make sure that there's no uh solder balls or any kind of chunks in it and make sure that it's all clean and uh and you're off again everything's working good that way so i had to uh desolder all these transistors and move the legs apart because the legs that were soldered onto the pad some of them were almost shorting over the pads to each other yikes so i had to unsolder all this desolder them all and clean off between the legs with the uh with acetone i used to clean off the the resin the leftover resin you want to make sure the resin is gone between those legs as i say if there's any little splattery solder balls left behind they could cause a future short so that was all done in this section here i resoldered the base connections to these two sc 2879s and cleaned around them the resin that you see on here is still from yaesu that's their factory stuff and that's absolutely fine it's not overlaying anything it's it's fine to be left on there i've resoldered a transistor down in here uh these all the screws on the board after this point are completely re-tightened everything is cinched down even the the the 2sc 2879s i tighten their cases to the board what else can i tell you here um this screw was stripped on the positive lead and i have a good idea why because a lot of people do this and it's a misconception they think that you can remove the positive lead to the amplifier and set the idling or the idle current to these 2sc 2879s by putting your current meter in line with this and here because a lot of people don't have soldering irons or maybe they just don't want to open this connection i really don't know why they do that at this point but you can absolutely not set it like that because this is not uh just setting uh the the uh idle current for the two two sc 2879s if you remove this screw here this is setting the whole entire board so you're going to have quite a bit of current draw there and then you'll be moving the adding the um the the idle current on top of that so you'll have a pretty pretty high current setting at that point if you turn down the idle current you probably won't be able to zero it out because the rest of the board is is um is powered up at this point so you ha definitely have to remove this jumper to do that and this positive has to stay there so i have the old screw here um i don't know if you can see that focused in on my hand here see the threads are all missing right in here so this is obviously that's usually the only reason that you remove that screw is that's a common misconception in these is you can remove the positive lead but you just can't do that so this connection just breaks the collectors and that's all it does it breaks the collectors to the two sc2879s so when you open this the rest of the board is still powered up if you open this it's just the collectors to these two transistors are completely open at that point so what you got to do is make sure you have an isolated current meter okay and then hook your current meter across this once you've removed that jumper now before you remove this jumper you have to have no power in this radio whatsoever this is very important nothing is hooked up to this radio no coaxes no microphones no patch cables on the back of any sort for reasons being is if you have any ground isolation problems between your soldering iron and the chassis of this radio you're going to cause a lot of damage and there's no point in even taking any chances completely floating this chassis sitting on a wooden bench and it's not touching anything metal there's completely floating this chassis at that point desolder the jumper put your current meter in line your current meter is isolated also from the ac line and at that point what you can do is make sure that the mox button is not pressed in so it's in receive mode when you turn the radio on okay plug your radio back in turn the power on your radio should just be in receive mode at this time and you should register absolutely no current on this current meter here okay all right just a quick note here this is the vr that we're going to be adjusting this little vr here sets the idle current to the final amplifiers right here okay so you're going to be looking at your meter it's going to read this there's going to be no current there okay all right so now with no current on that meter what you're going to do is on the face of your yaesu ft-1000 you're going to put it either into lower side band or upper side band i have this one in lower side band there is no microphone hooked up the mic gain is turned right down to nothing the rf power is turned right down to nothing and now you're ready to set the uh the current the idling current on those two two sc 2879s okay so now what you do is you put your finger on the mox control with your current meter in line you press the mox button in and you'll see the current do this and you're wondering why is it moving around so much well that's due to temperature change that diode on the top of that transistor is uh sensing temperature and of course there is a little bit of variation in the transistor itself so things are going to move around a bit it's very sensitive to temperature and that's what that diode's job is so you're going to see it move around here all right see how it's quite cold so now if i blow on this watch what happens if i just blow on the tops of those two sc2879s that's it see how sensitive that is so i'll just put it in the mox mode here or take it back into receive i'll let it set for a second so what you got to do is you can't be too finicky with this setting the the rating for this okay is 400 milliamps you set that vr to 400 milliamps positive or negative 50 milliamps so what they're telling you set it to 400 and it's going to move positive or negative 50. and that's just a comfortable zone you want this to be at room temperature when you're setting this because it will really affect this setting so and it's as i say it's extremely important to do that all right so with this thing at room temperature and it's been sitting for a while all right if you first turn this on and find out that it's around 800 milliamps or something or an amp or over an amp or something crazy like that immediately turn that vr down to 400 and then let it settle off and then shut the thing off again turn let your shut the thing back off the mox button is now back into receive okay and let it sit and receive for a minute and then turn it back on and see where it sits and then once you kind of get it comfortable uh set it around 400 milliamps and uh it should be fine as i say don't get too finicky because it's going to move around a little bit so i'll put this back into mox mode again and we can see it climbing up so what i'm going to do is i'm going to let this settle off for about 15 seconds okay so we'll sit here and let it count up you will note that with these particular amplifiers that diode is going to compensate quite a bit for a uh if you warm the actual diode up and warm the package up the current will actually go down so that's how it's intended to operate if i heat that with a heat gun the the current will go to 300 to 200 milliamps it'll go down so that's actually how it works and that's designed to protect those transistors when they get very very hot it's just downing the current so at any rate so here it is it's kind of settling off so i can keep lighting this will probably settle off around 400 mils i probably don't even need to set this i've pre-set this before when i first turned it on it was sitting at about 700 milliamps so i dropped it down and uh i'm just going to see how far it takes to you know how long it takes to settle off i can move it around i'll move it around and just give you an example okay so i'll stick my screwdriver in that little vr now you can see we can bring it way up it was up at 700 right so it doesn't need to be down there and of course it'll go way down too right so what we want to do is just set this to 400 all right so there it is so we have it set at 400 and i'll just put it back into uh standby mode here again so it's actually received when you turn the um you know depress the mox button and the mox button is out it's back into receive so the amplifier itself is in a standby mode right now and that's set up by that wire that was uh disconnected in that trv circuit that i explained earlier so i'll just let this sit for a second and then uh in a second here we'll turn it on again let it settle off set it one more time and at that point we're done and that's really how generic this setting is because it's just going to move around a lot okay so i'll turn it back on and we can see that we're pretty much going to be within the zone right now so i really don't think that we're going to need to reset this there we go so it's settling off around 400 it'll probably still count up a bit there you go see so it's going to still count up a little so i'm still you know you know 400 you know it's positive negative 50 when it's been sitting for a few that's absolutely fine as i say don't get too finicky with this because it's just going to move around a lot and don't set this if you've just taken it out of a garage or it's been sitting in your car or it's been in some sort of extreme heat application or something like that you want this at room temperature and set it and you're pretty good at that point and that pretty much finishes off the uh the uh the finals idle set there so after this point disconnect the entire radio again all right if the chassis is floating like i explained earlier re-solder that jumper in here again and turn this thing put the lid back on turn it upside down and it's ready to go so as i mentioned earlier if you turn this thing on and you find out that the current is incredibly high right off right off the you know as soon as you turn it on it's 800 900 milliamps immediately go in here and turn this down to 400 and then let it count for a little while all right as long as it doesn't drift too far from 400 put it back into standby motor back into uh you know depress the mox button so it's back into receive mode the radius and receive this is in standby mode okay and let it sit and then turn it back on again and then of course do one final check and set it up to 400 if it's not wandering too much like this one use what what was here as an example if it's not wandering too much you're fine at that point and that's it that's pretty much it so i'm just going to put this thing back together i'm going to loom up some wires here once all the wiring is completely loomed up and this thing is together i've got this uh you know the squirrel cage or water wheel or whatever you want to call it fan back in the case here we're going to be absolutely fine and ready to uh test out the new antenna switching circuit and see what we've come up with at that point and that's what we'll do next just a quick note on the reassembly of the low-pass filter unit slash rf output amplifier unit and asu ft 1000 mp when i got this all these wires were route on the inside of the box including the coaxial cables here they all came out this one little plastic grommet slash a little hole here some of them were on top of the hole and it never did really feel right because i noticed when i took it apart just a bit of a bubble in the lid here i didn't give it much thought because though it came off of these and this screw was finger tight when i got it so i just unscrewed it and came apart and you know started in looking in the amplifier and was horrified by what i saw so i quickly lost thought of this um you know the cover for the the rf amplifier low-pass filter unit now upon reassembly you know i was never really comfortable with running these wires past the uh the low pass filter unit and everything just didn't feel right so i'm putting this thing back together you know the lid's not fitting on quite right these cables are kind of buckling in here they're on a 90 degree angle it's just something's not right here i noticed that there was a piece of tape here from factory yay tape with a piece of tear you know or with a tear in it so it sounds really odd here so it would only make sense that these are unshielded wires and they want these outside the box as soon as possible so this wire runs through that piece of tape that had a tear i guess somebody torn the wires out of the tape there and you know reroute them inside the box same with these wires here they want them out of the box as soon as possible so the connectors right here comes right out here there's a partition in the box to keep the rf amplifier separate from the low pass filter unit and of course these things were bent on a 90 degree angle buckling this well there's square cutouts here and these are supposed to be plugged in through the actual shield here another good clue to that was this cut out here we noticed the cutout sits here right and look at that these cables come straight out in this little cutout in the in this bracket here this bracket holds the rf amplifier unit into the uh into the area there so the only wires that are supposed to actually come out over in this side of the unit really are this is the rf drive wire it goes through this little grommet here and this is the positive and negative supply leads for the rf amplifier and then these are the fan wires the fan circuit wires they run off to the regulator board and then right in front of the connector on the regulator board here right in front of this connector where it plugs in is where the fan plugs in so that's how it's supposed to be done so if you uh are having problems reassembling your your yasuo ft-1000 or it's been assembled incorrectly this is the correct way to put it back together the yaesu ft-1000 is now put back together and i'm pretty much ready to do some testing you see that the squirrel cage moves nice and free now no noises wires are loomed up properly you can see all the wire ties on here everything's all put back together i've undone the uh the cable from the radio to the antenna switchboard because that's what we need to test so you can see back here how the so239s are kind of soldered in i've got this wire tied to it so it's pulling on it a bit you can see how those are tied in there soldered to the strip line so that board is pretty much ready to test the radio is going to control this board so basically i'm just going to use the a b switch on the front of the radio to move the relays back and forth and we'll test their action so we'll do that when i got my camera back on the tripod here i'm now ready to test the functionality of the antenna switching circuit so the radio is in antenna b the radio is on right now and it's selecting antenna b so that means that antenna b should be connected to the center conductor and antenna a should be grounded so let's just test that right now so we got antenna a you can see that's grounded okay now we'll test antenna b and it shouldn't be grounded it's not grounded now it should be making the center conductor here should be making a connection to the center conductor in this little rf jack and we can see it is and of course it's not shorted there so we're so far we're doing good so i'll select antenna a now get on to here okay so now antenna b should be grounded and antenna a should be connected to this uh jack in here no problems so we're pretty much ready to do some swr and all sorts of tests on this with the analyzer i now have my analyzer hooked up to the antenna switching circuit in the csu ft-1000 and we're ready to look at it and see how it performs so i'm just going to go in course steps here i'm not going to you know really sweep every frequency because we'd be here for a long time so i'll just go on course steps and that's good enough that'll tell us how well this thing actually works so that 47 ohm resistor that was on the relay i now have in a pl 259 connector and i will put that on the back of the radio because i have to attach the resistor somehow to that so239 jack the radio is on so i can you know switch between antenna jacks here you'll hear it all right so it's switching between the jacks right now right now i'm on antenna ajac so i'll screw this load onto antennae jack okay there we go so we're at 1.88 megahertz resistance 47 x equals zero one point zero to one absolutely fine you see the resistors on the verge of 46 47 ohms okay we'll go to 4.4 megahertz same thing s standing wave ratio swr 1.01 x equals zero can't ask for anything better 11.129 megahertz resistance or the impedance they call it resistance here are impedance is 47 ohms x equals zero one point zero to one 28.5 megahertz same thing now let's go right out of the range of where this switch even needs to go let's go right up to 66 megahertz look at that 1.021 swr x equals zero impedance 46 ohms okay now let's go right up to the vhf region and see what we get one point zero to one x equals zero and about 51 or 52 ohms and that could be a bunch of different things in the circuit could be the length in the relay or this cable i don't know if this cable is is uh even good up to this frequency that came out of an hf hf rig it had happened to have the same connector on it so i was doing pretty good so there's no point even looking up here anyways because it only goes to 29 megahertz and if we can make it comfortably to 66 with no problems i can say you know pretty comfortably that this is going to be just absolutely fine so we'll go back down to the bottom again and i'll select antenna b so you'll see this you see it just opens up because this jack is now open so i will put in an antenna b jack all right looking pretty much the same impedance 47 ohms x equals zero one point zero to one you can see the screen i'll just move it up 4.4 megahertz 11.12 megahertz 28.5 66.7 and 116 megahertz looks like we're doing pretty good at this point i would call this antenna board it's antenna switchboard an absolute success so now we're going to do is the final test we're going to put some rf power through this and we'll look at it on the marconi analyzer i'm now ready to test the new antenna switchboard in this yasu ft-1000 mp you can see it's all hooked up and ready to go this is the cable coming from the radio going back into the board here again and we're antenna a port so this relay right here is going to be passing the power out to the marconi 2955b analyzer which has a 50 ohm dummy load inside it so here we go the radio is at 3.8 megahertz it's in the cw mode so all i really have to do is push the mox button and turn up the rf power so let's give it a shot here we go all right i'll turn it up 101 watts i think we gained a lot and i'll do it one more time 101 watts doing good so now i'll bring it up to 29.5 megahertz and we'll try it again 106 watts up at 29.5 megahertz doing real good up here and i'll turn it up one more time 106 watts no problems there swr is completely flat so i'll move this over to the antenna b position and we'll test the antenna b side all right antenna b here we go still at 29.5 106 watts no problems so let's go down to 3.5 megahertz or 3.8 it was 3.8 megahertz and i'll put it back on antenna b because it remembers antenna a down here and let's give it a shot 101 watts and of course the swr is completely flat so it looks like this antenna switchboard is a winner well the radio is now finished at the control carrier modulation and those things so i talked with these guys for quite a while this morning and they say the radio sounds really good i haven't been on the air now for about 45 minutes or something like that so these guys are still going on about something they were talking about controlled carriers but um it works very well i also made some sideband contacts everybody gives this thing glowing reports so of course i have my own monitoring equipment i can listen to this myself while i'm setting it up and aligning and doing all this kind of stuff so but it's always nice in the end to get you know the final result talk to somebody on the air and see what they have to say about it and it was all really really positive so i think it's about time for this radio to go back to its owner and make the owner happy so i hope you enjoyed following along through this entire repair process and modification process if you did give it a big thumbs up and hang around there will be more like this in the near future just hopefully not as in depth as this one was this one sure took a long time see you next time you

Channel: Mr Carlson's Lab

Views: 2,136,465

Rating: 4.8368912 out of 5

Keywords: Yaesu (Business Operation), Yaesu FT-1000MP, creativedesigncomponents.com, creative design components, ham radio trouble shooting, Amateur Radio (Hobby), ham radio repair, amateur radio repair, fix a ham radio, fix an amateur radio, yaesu repair, yaesu repair video

Id: Omo3XvhsKd0

Length: 123min 18sec (7398 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 12 2015

Reddit Comments

[u/deathmetalbanjo]

I love Mr. Carlson's Lab! His videos are long, but very informative.

[u/ceeller]

That was very well done and interesting. I watched the whole video in a single sitting. I like how he has a clear and linear troubleshooting process.

[u/VA7EEX]

I met Mr Carlson at a hamfest last year.

[u/va3db]

I'm puzzled why he didn't put a 'scope on the 9v regulator to see if it was oscillating. Especially after he had noted it was quite stable under a load.