Yaesu FT-1000MP Repair

hi there and welcome to mr. Carlson's lab today we're going to take a look at an ft 1000 MP that has problems in the received section so let's get into diagnosing and repairing this transceiver before I go removing the lid on this ft 1000 MP I want to verify the fault condition so basically I just want to make sure that the receive is actually a low before I start taking this thing apart now there's a couple of things that you really need to do with every transceiver that you work on before you go turning the thing on so basically you want to go through a small little checklist now some of the most important things to do are make sure that the RF power is down and make sure that the mic gain is down before you go turning the transceiver on if it has an mo X button or vo X button you want to make sure that they're both out or both in the position that will start the transceiver in the receive mode if you push the mo X button in on a lot of transceivers when you push the power button it'll automatically go right into transmit mode and that can really damage test gear or even the finals in the radio so you want to verify all this so a good way of actually testing a transceiver that your say you're unsure of the controls or say you're unsure of the fault condition is have the thing hooked up to a dummy load first and then turn the thing on just in case say the the final section is oscillating or something like that or you know it's doing something crazy where it's putting out our power the last thing you want to do is feed RF power into an expensive piece of test gear so everything is turned down here alright and the MOX button is out and the Vox button is out so I'll turn this thing on alright and it's sitting at 14 to 87 that's at full volume and you can hear that motorboating sound that motorboating sound sounds very familiar it sounds like the last ft 1000 MP that I was working on made the same noise very interesting alright so I'll turn the volume down a bit so I've got this hooked up to a signal generator so what I'm going to do is turn the signal generator on the signal generator is at 14.2 87 it's at 30 micro volts so the signal coming out of the signal generator is at 30 micro volts and there's a one kilohertz tone modulated to 50% what I'm gonna do is turn the RF output on right now this is the RF signal generators RF output and we can hear that it's trying to receive at 14 to 87 but we see absolutely nothing on the s meter and that's at 30 micro volts all right so I'll just turn the amplitude of the signal generator up that's at 100 micro volts still absolutely nothing on the display here so this volume control here is for this side and this volume control is for this side here so it'll use I turn that down and this is this side here and at 14 to 87 it's receiving absolutely nothing so turn the signal generator off and I'll turn it back on again and there's absolutely nothing happening on this side whatsoever so we know that this side is trying to receive there's absolutely no receive here and I hear a motorboating sound in here just like that other ft 1000 MP that I worked on I'll link in that video as well below so if you click on the show more tab just below this video there is another F T 1000 video there for you to watch that one is really in-depth this one here is well I'm not sure how in-depth this one's gonna get at this point cuz I'm just starting off but I'm hoping that it's not that long so the next thing I'm gonna do is remove the lid on this and we're gonna go sniffing for signals in this thing the first thing I'm going to do is check the RF signal path from this jack here right down to where it connects into circuit board underneath this RF amplifier here so this is the little RF active probe that I've put together I showed the RF active probe in another video it wasn't inside this shell at the time it was just basically hanging out it's the same one that I used in the Sony CRF 320 video so all I've done is I've taken that circuit board and put it inside of this echo probe body now these Iko probe bodies are really handy because you all you have to do is take this little plastic ring it's threaded on the end remove that plastic ring and you can take the whole circuit board and everything open put whatever you want inside this probe body so it makes for a very nice active probe you see there's a little red LED in the end there just to tell me that there's probe power happening so I just diffused this plastic on the end here and that worked really quite well so I may do a video on fitting all of that into one of these probe bodies here in the near future if you're interested in that you can leave that in the comments below so what I'm going to do now is hook this up to the signal path here that comes right from the signal generator and what we're going to do is take a look at it on the spectrum analyzer so what I'm gonna do is just put this little clip here on here and I'll clip it to the input and we'll take a look at the spectrum analyzer here okay so I have a 50 micro volt signal running into the input right now but the relay is open on that one side so I expect when I turn the radio on the transceiver on its going to connect the receive section of this transceiver to that Jack so I'm expecting a drop in amplitude so what I'll do is I'll turn the transceiver on now so the ft 1000 that is here we go so you can see that dropping amplitude just turn that down so you can see for 50 micro volts I'm at half screen right now and that's directly hooked right up to where this coaxial jack comes right into this little RF switching board here alright so that allows you to switch between antenna a and antenna B so what I'm going to do now is since we know that we've got 450 micro volts we half screen right there alright if I bump this up to 100 microvolts I'm going to get full screen so what I'll do is I'll just turn the signal generator over here up to 100 microvolts I should have full screen so there you go let's full screen at 100 microvolts so I'll just turn this down that's how I have this calibrated right now all right so I'll just show you the signal generator well you can see that there that's 50 micro volts here alright and I'll just turn that up to 100 microvolts okay and as you can see we're at full screen there again we'll go back down to 50 micro volts alright and there we are so what I'm going to do now is on the actual ft 1000 I have to remove this amplifier module and get to where the coax runs right down into the RX section of the board so basically I'm just gonna test a whole bunch of things just make sure it's actually going through all the Koh axes right down into the bottom here so that way we know that we have a signal path from here right to the board so we can skip testing a whole bunch of stuff here in order to get the RF amplifier module out so we can get down to the board the first thing that we want to do is remove this fan so that's really quite simple there's a screw right here and there's also a screw right here and this whole fan will just come out there's some wires and some clips underneath that you may need to remove in order to comfortably move this out of the way now before you go removing anything in this thing of course you want to make sure that all the power is disconnected so unplug the unit from the wall remember if you're following along you're doing so at your own risk so take care so I'll get rid of this fan here move it off to the side and we'll take a look at the next step ok the two screws are removed this thing here just lifts out of the way just like that you can set that off to the side now in order to get this module out you don't need to take all of these screws out here on the top there's just four that you need to take out on the bracket here so there's one screw there one screw there and then there's two on the side here one screw here and one screw over here just remove those screws and this whole unit will just lift up then you can tip it over now all the screws are removed on the bracket so there's one screw here one here one here and one here you also want to undo these little wire Clips down here you see these little plastic Clips you just push them to the side and they'll open up and you want to remove the power wires from those clips so these power wires are under the circuit board here and go into this amplifier there's also two smaller wires a red one and a white one you'll find that will also have to be removed from this bracket there from this little clip down here and this little clip as well there's two little white clips once you've done that just slide this forward a little bit and this whole thing will lift up and you just turn the amplifier unit upside down like that and this coax here where it says rx antenna is where the receive comes in so what we're gonna do now is test this point here to make sure that that RF is still there the next step is to remove this little coax here marked rx antenna that's right on the board so basically just give it a little twist and pull it out and I'm gonna hook this up to my RF active probe and look for a signal at this point so I'll take the common or ground from my RF active probe and I'll take the center conductor of the coax and connect it directly into the RF active probe now I gotta warn you you got to keep in mind that this section in here is all AC connections and this is all open you can see the open connections here so you need to take care when you're in this area remember if you're working on anything like this you're doing so at your own risk so I'll apply power plug the transceiver back in again and I'll get ready to turn this on so we'll take a look at the spectrum analyzer screen here and you can see there's no signal even though that the signal generator is plugged in at this point and that's because unless I have the transceiver on it's not going to connect antenna a into the circuit here again so I have to turn on the radio and I'll do that right now and we can see the signal is there now you can see that the signal is taking full screen right now it's not at half screen when we had it hooked up earlier and that's because there is no connection here basically it's just seeing an open connection like before so this piece of coax is an open connection to my signal generator it generator it's not terminated into 50 ohms or anything and that's the reason we're seeing that high amplitude there if I was to plug this back in the board again and measure it with it plugged into the board it would be at half screen so we know the signal is getting to that point rate now so I can test the antenna switches by doing this I'll just test antenna B here now we should see the signal disappear all right and I'll move the coax on the rear of the radio over - antenna B and there's a signal and I'll go back to antenna a again and it should disappear all right go back to antenna B and it's there so there's no problem with the relay switching on that little board as well so we can test a bunch of things just by doing this so at this point we know that there is receive at this point to where it goes directly in the board so there's a signal path rate in here so before I go troubleshooting this entire receive section as you heard me say right in the beginning there was some signature sounds just like the other ft 1000 that I looked at is making that motorboating noise and it really the receive is low on this the other you know VF o B really isn't working whatsoever so it kind of makes you think hmm maybe it's the same issue so the next thing we're gonna do is test the regulation over here and see if the power supply is at fault again or maybe even something's dragging that supply down my next step is to test both of these linear regulators here this is a positive 5 volt regulator this is a positive 9 volt regulator they're both 78 series so that means that the pin O is the same it's very easy to remember when you're looking at the front side here this pin is in the center pin is ground and the pin on this side is out and the same goes for this regulator here so the pin on this side should read 9 volts and the pin on this side should read 5 volts the input pin which is on this side here they should both at around 14 volts now the center pin for both of these regulators is just connected to the frame of the radio so it goes through a trace and then just connects to the frame here so I can take the negative of my voltmeter just attach it to the frame and just take the positive and probe the two pins on each regulator and I'll do that right now so I'll focus a camera on the voltmeter here I'll take my negative voltmeter probe and just put it on the frame of the radio and we'll look at the input of the five volt regulator first so here we go no problems at 14 volts so now this should be the regulated 5 volt pin here on this side and it's at 5.0 6 no problems whatsoever so we'll go to the input of the 9 volt regulator 14 volts no problem and we'll go to the output of the 9 volt regulator and it's at 7.07 volts there is a problem there so there's either a problem with that 9 volt regulator I'll just remove the probe leads here there's either a problem with that voltage regulator or there's something in the circuitry in this radio that's dragging that regulator down and that would be this regulator right here so that is insanely hot you probably melt plastic on that I'm surprised it's not melting itself so there's definitely some problem either in this regulator here or in the radio and that's what we're gonna look at next the next thing I'm going to do is measure the amount of current being drawn from this 9 volt regulator here that's going to help me determine whether this regulator itself is at fault or whether there's a short somewhere else inside this transceiver now in order to do that I have to open up the output leg on this regulator here and put a current meter in line with that output leg and the actual trace that it's solder to so basically the current meter is in line with that in order to do that I need to remove this circuit board from the transceiver and that requires the removal of this fence here which is this screw here this screw here and that screw in this corner here and it also requires me to remove this screw this group once this fence is removed there's a screw under here and this screw with a black wire on it here has to get removed you can leave this screw this screw and this screw here alone that just holds the aluminum heatsink on there's also one screw on the side of the transceiver that's pulling this aluminum heatsink tight to the side of the radio so you're gonna have to remove the bottom cover to get at that as well again you got to be careful make sure you have the mains disconnected when you're doing this these are all exposed here so you don't want to get shocked or anything like that so I'll get the board out and hook the current meter up and I'll be back the circuit board is upside down and I've D soldered the output lead or the output leg of this L 70809 I've bent it straight and I've attached one lead of my current meter to it to the existing pad where this was soldered I've soldered another wire to it and the other lead of my current meter is attached to this here so the current meter is in line with this device that's how you measure current now this is an L 70809 and it should be able to deal with an ampere so quite safely you know it's gonna need you know some adequate heatsink surface at that but you know there's a nice chunk of aluminum here and then this is bolted to the side of the radio so it should transfer heat into the side of the radio now even at an amp or so this should still be at about nine volts or very close to so if this is well over an amp I can expect you know some other failure point inside this radio but you know if it's under an amp chances are there's something wrong with this regulator here so what I'm going to do is move the camera and focus on the meter here so this is measuring current rate now what I'll do is I'll turn the radio on and we'll take a look at the current draw and we're dealing with about seven hundred milliamps or something like that that's absolutely fine this should still be at nine volts with that current draw so right now that's telling me that there's something wrong with this nine volt regulator here now to verify that what I'm going to do is I'm going to D solder the rest of the pins on this regulator here I'll just stand them up and I'm going to stand a nine volt regulator with a small heatsink on the bottom side here and I'm just going to remeasure the voltage and see what I have and I should have nine volts I'm pretty positive at this point that this regulator is the failure point I've completely disordered the old regulator from the circuit and I've bent the legs up and I've tacked in another nine volt regulator on the bottom side of the board here just for testing purposes you can see I've got a rather large heatsink on it just because I don't want to take any chances I know this is going to get pretty hot at that amount of current drop in the circuit now of course the current draw is going to be a little bit different because the voltage will be a little higher than seven volts but still it's going to be enough to make this little part very very hot so let's see if we have nine volts I'll take a look at the voltmeter here and I'll turn on the transceiver and I'll measure the output pin right here and we have nine volts so at this point we definitely know that that old component is faulty I can also see on VF OB that I have just about nine s units of signal now whereas VF OB was completely quiet before so what I'll do is I'll just shut the transceiver off here and I'll reposition the camera and I'll show you that VF OB is now active with this new nine volt regulator this is the side that was completely silent there is nothing happening whatsoever on that side now oddly enough VF o a has got no signal whatsoever so we still have a problem somewhere else inside this receiver but we're gonna tackle one problem at a time so what I'm going to do I'll just shut the transceiver off so I'm gonna do now is remove the old regulator and put this one in permanently so I'll remove it from the bottom side of the board I'm going to clean up the circuit board a little bit there's a couple of crusty looking solder joints there now from the factory when they installed these boards they never put any thermal transfer compound on the backside here now when I put these boards back in I'm going to put some thermal compound on here so that it better transfers the heat from this aluminum to the case of the radio and that should keep this area just a little bit cooler and be a little bit easier on these regulators here so that's the next step and then we'll go after why PFOA has got no signal the board is reinstalled in the radial with a new nine volt regulator right here there's also plenty of thermal compound under that regulator and there's also thermal compound between this aluminum heatsink and the chassis of the radio so there should be some pretty good thermal transfer there so let's take a look at the voltage and see how close we are to nine volts now I wouldn't be handpicking these parts and grading them would I let's take a look at the voltage accuracy here now I'll just probe the output pin right here of the nine volt supply I don't think I could get any closer very very stable as you can see no movement rate at nine volts so that's working great so now on to the other Prohm let's get vfo a working this is the bottom side of the FT 1000 transceiver so it extends to that point there so this little area here is what we're going to focus on right now as you can see the owner has put in quite a few filters here and whenever anybody gets in one of these things and starts moving wires around there's a little bit of room for confusion at this point so when I turn this thing upside down I immediately noticed a problem and if you'd like you can pause the video at this point and see if you can spot what I'm talking about there is an issue with the wiring on the bottom side here so instead of me going through a troubleshooting procedure and trying to find the signal and everything this problem just really stands right out and this is the problem right here so all you got to do is pull that out pull that out and swap this one to here and put this one in here so now let's see if we have receive on vfo a all right let's see if vfo a works now looks great the FO a the FO B so the signal generator is putting a 50 micro volt signal into the input of this so let's take the signal generator down to 20 and we'll see how well the estimators track here so we're one bar below s9 there alright so let's go down to say 20 micro volts all right one bar over the seven one bar over the seven looks pretty good to me so for the last test will test the transmit section and after that we're ready to put the lid back on I'm ready to test the RF output section in the CSUF t1000 MP so I just have a stock microphone hooked up to it I've got the RF power turned to the maximum I have the mic gain turned to the maximum and it's in lower sideband mode now if you keep an eye on that red flickering display in the background there I'll just say test into the microphone and that red display is set to read peak power so we'll see how many watts this thing puts out so here we go test test no problems whatsoever well over 100 watts it's working absolutely fine I'm going to check the reference oscillator inside this yaesu ft 1000 and if it's off of course we're going to make some adjustments now this little board here is the reference oscillator and the frequency that it's supposed to be at is ten point four eight five seven six megahertz so what I'm going to do is take my active Pearl and I'm going to poke it right into this little socket right here this is where the signal comes out of this reference oscillator and at this point it's already buffered so what I'm going to do is move the camera and get the camera on the frequency counter here and we'll check it out and make adjustments if necessary I'm ready to check the reference oscillator in the CFT one and MP so the frequency that this is supposed to be at is ten point four eight five seven six megahertz so what I'm going to do is take my RF active probe and hook it to the buffered output of this reference oscillator and we'll see what it reads on the frequency counter so here we go I would say that that is extremely close so it's ten point four eight five seven six is all they call four and we have an additional zero one after that so extremely close not even worth tinkering with basically laying my finger on the crystal will make that change so that's how incredibly sensitive this is so if your reference oscillator is this close I would strongly suggest not even touching it now again this is just a standard crystal oscillator this isn't a no xeo or anything like that so pretty good know episode would be complete without some Nixie tubes so here we are at fourteen dot one two three four five megahertz on the UFT 1000 MP it's putting out point five of a watt into a dummy load so what we're doing right now is we're checking the transmitted frequency accuracy it's in the AM mode there is no mic gain and there is no microphone hooked up so when I press the mo X button on the aft 1000 it should read fourteen point one two three four five on the Nixie tube counter so here we go no problems with frequency accuracy there so go back into receive here go back into transmit fourteen point one two three four five megahertz right on the button so this transceiver is happy then it's ready to go see its owner thanks for stopping by the lab today hope you enjoyed this diagnose and repair video involving this ft 1000 MP transceiver if you did you can let me know by giving me a big thumbs up and hang on there'll be many more videos just like this in the very near future touching on all sorts of different aspects of electronics vacuum tube and solid-state stuff so until next time take care bye for now you

Channel: Mr Carlson's Lab

Views: 94,733

Keywords: creativedesigncomponents.com, Creative Design Components, Yaesu Transceiver Repair, Yaesu FT-1000MP mark V repair, Yaesu FT-1000D repair, Electronic Troubleshooting, Electronic Restoration

Id: aieMZNC4m_0

Length: 26min 47sec (1607 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 09 2016