Woodworking With Resin

check out the table that we created using our casting epoxy and a scrap piece of Redwood in this video we're gonna show you how we use this old throwaway piece of Redwood and turn it into a fantastic showpiece we're gonna show you how we flatten it how we cut it to create 90-degree edges how we sealed it how we poured our cast in epoxy and much more we mix two of our metallic powders to create a custom color that was perfect for this project woodworking with epoxy is amazing in this video we're gonna show you all the tips tools and tricks that we use to create outstanding projects every time we're gonna show you how we prep and pour how we seal and squeegee and how we torch and Chuck our epoxy is easy to use and eco-friendly it's great for do-it-yourselfers and weekend warriors contractors love it and the clarity is second to none take your next woodworking project to the next level visit us anytime at Stone Koch countertops com stay tuned and enjoy the video remember when you subscribe to our channel click on the red subscribe button and be sure to ring the bell so you get notified every time we have a new video thanks again our challenge with this unique piece of wood was quite interesting we considered multiple different ways to go about this project but our solution that we came up with I think you're gonna like after getting the piece of wood secured to our table the first step was to simply use our router jig and get everything flat now you can see the one in here had a high point so we're just gonna lower our router jig step-by-step so we don't take off too much meat at a time but we're using our three inch surface planning router bit to go through step-by-step and plane this piece of wood down each pass of the router revealed the true character of this project it looked grin G and grimy on the surface but as we open it up goodness gracious I got excited after we flattened the top surface of this project we're gonna flip it over and do the same thing to the bottom just be sure to secure the project down so that as we run our over the surface it stays put nice and steady you always want rigidity when using too late after using the router jig you'll have small ridges left from your router bit so I'm gonna use a 50 grit metal sanding disc and simply remove those ridges with ease now it's time to map out this project and see where I'm gonna make my cuts and the whole key here was to find a spot in this project to do a 90 degree cut and that's what we were tracing out I'm also gonna lay down some foam so that as I plunge cut through this I don't cut into my table surface after I make my first cut I'll trace a new line at a 90 degree to this cut so I have a nice corner to start with at this point in the project this is where art and function really meet up this is where you get to choose where the cuts are gonna happen and what piece is gonna be used in the project and what won't work really you get to decide how big this is gonna be and you've got to kind of be Nostradamus a little bit you got a kind of vision what its gonna look like as a finished product and what your goal is and here I'm just making straight cuts where I'm gonna have the ends and edges of my table and the rest is gonna be freeform I can't wait for you to see this I wasn't real satisfied with the ingrain that was exposed on that initial cut so I'll trim a little bit more and make sure I like that just a little bit better after that I'm gonna slide these pieces together and you can really start to see where that epoxy is gonna fill in and get a feel for this project using our Craig pocket jig in our step bit we're gonna make some pocket holes and some pieces that we've already cut so that we can have a dam to really hold this project together it's also gonna stop any leaks of the epoxy and this is a surefire way to hold these pieces down where they won't come loose during the pouring process we're going to start with the sheet of 3/4 inch melamine we're also going to use coarse thread Kraig screws so it attaches to the smella mean very strong I really like the larger head and the square drive on the Craig screws they attach and don't let go very easily we're simply going to pre-fill our screws and then we'll attach this to the melamine so that it gives us a backstop to push our project against we'll simply cut our pieces to size as we go around the perimeter of our project we're using a t-square to make sure everything stays square so that our finished result looks professional after I have everything mocked up we'll blow the dust out now I'm gonna use some tie vac tape so that we don't have any leaks between the seam of our wood or plywood that we've screwed down and the melamine Tyvek tape is a real good insurance policy against leaks we're gonna simply apply tie back tape to the inside of our form as well as the outside [Music] now that our forms assembled we'll blow the dust out just one final time notice here I'm also going to apply tie back tape in the corners so I don't have any leaks at my corners it's better to be safe than sorry and this is a really good method that you have just tons of fun during the important process we're going to remove the dust so we can apply tie back tape to the outside of our form then it's time to seal the edges of our project so it doesn't link air into the casting epoxy for sealing the edges we use our product called quick coat this dries in about two to three hours it doesn't hold up your project timeline and it's really easy to apply we're just gonna do a one to one ratio we'll mix that up and we're gonna brush that on the edges this prevents air from leaking out into your finished casting epoxy coat and it just gives you a better overall experience you have about 15 minutes to work with the quick coat so don't mix up too much but you don't need to be in a rush we're gonna use a torch - torch out any air that wasn't rain during the mixing process that'll clear this product right up and it starts to reveal the true beauty of this wood so this is our super cast on a project like this you don't want to have to wait days and days to do layers and layers so this has been formulated to be poor it's super thick super cast right so we're gonna uh we're gonna mix this up this is just under two inches we're gonna pour this whole thing with one pour we're gonna show you how that reacts we're gonna add our pigments we're gonna add most of it with our purple mountain this is called violet pearl metallic so this has like the purple iridescent to it did you see that coming out Mitch actually tested this purple with the purple mountain metallic and you said you like I liked it for our beautiful redwood it really refracts so that's what I like about this particular metallic is it refracts that light and makes it almost you know two-tone makes it magical man is just gorgeous how easy does that mix oh it's so great it's beautiful all right here we go we're gonna mix our super cast using a paint stick for about 10 minutes so we don't in train excess air we're gonna fill this entire cast in one pour and how we're gonna do that is torch the bubbles out every quarter inch will pour enough material to fill about a quarter inch in our form will torch out the bubbles and we'll proceed until the entire project is full we're going to get a unique one-of-a-kind color on this project because we're mixing two of our different metallic powders remember as you're pouring you're gonna stop about every quarter inch and torch those bubbles out you know we suggest mixing this for like 10 minutes that doesn't hurt and you got all the time you need to do that it's not heating up this product is designed to be pour very thick our first bucket we had mixed with our purple mountain metallic our second bucket is with violet purple the two of these combined are gonna create a beautiful look our super cast is specially designed to be able to be poured very thick in one coat our other products are only designed to be about 1/8 of an inch per coat it's fun watching our project evolve if you want to create more dynamic looks you can come every so often and move those colors around to get a beautiful outcome it's important to understand that with our super cast you can come back and play with this with the paint stick during the curing process depending on how far along you are in that curing process will determine how much effects are really retained in what you do with that paint stick it's fun to play with this timing every projects going to be unique we needed a little bit more product to fill our project all the way to the top so we mixed up some more and we didn't tend to with metallic it gave a entirely new effect which was really amazing we're gonna let our super cast secure in a warm room for about 24 hours we have about 1/8 of an inch to go before we're flush with our Redwood so we're gonna fill this with our normal stone countertop epoxy because it's so shallow as our super cast cures it's gonna tighten up and shrink a little bit in that form you can account for this by over filling your project and sanding it back flush after it's set up after this coat we're going to use our slab jig to get all the excess epoxy off back to raw wood so we're ready to do our final coats we're using a blue shop rag here to wipe any excess dust get that off the surface and then you're ready to pour your normal stone countertop epoxy right over that sanded super cast I really like the depth that you get by pouring clear over that tinted metallic surface underneath our Tyvek tape did an excellent job creating a really good form we didn't have any leaks so we weren't wasting material as we went I'll finish filling our project to the top and then we'll use our propane torch to pop the bubbles we'll do this three times so you get a crystal clear surface wait a few minutes between each time you torch it to let the excess air come to the surface be sure to scan the surface and remove any debris that may have fallen in that epoxy sweet rolls all let our project dry overnight before removing it from the form I should have used Tyvek tape under the entire project because I had a heck of a time getting it off that melamine I just took this form off it's done to the melamine like you wouldn't believe use tie back tape I didn't have a good experience with our captain epoxy directly on me that was a good learning experience and test for me but now I got to get this hunk of melamine that stuck to my project off so I'm gonna use my 50 grit metal sanding disc I'll use a hammer and chisel and I'll just get rid of this excess melamine it's no big deal in past casting projects I've used Tyvek tape on the entire bottom surface of my forms to ensure a clean release I'll do that again next time because I have a good experience going directly over the substrate with our super cast it bonded even to that melamine some folks like to use a mold release spray these contain silicones so if you decide to go that route be sure it's dry before you introduce the epoxy into your form now that we have the bottom of our project nice and flat again we're gonna flip it over and we're gonna run the slab jig over the surface one more time we'll use our router and sliding slab jig set up to remove the top 1/16 of an inch from this project this goes a lot faster than sanding we're also gonna make sure this project is rigid by screwing down the support blocks so nothing moves while using our router when router an overdrive poxy I recommend using a bit that has four teeth as opposed to two this creates a cleaner finish by moving my router at a nice steady pace I'm gonna get a very clean finish the slab jig works great making our projects nice and flat now that our surface is back to the raw wood we're gonna remove any of those router marks with the 50 grit metal sanding disc we're using an attachment on our grinder that's allowing our sanding disc to ride flush to find all the tools products and colors that we use to create this project just follow the arrow we've provided all the links right there to clean up the edges and perimeter of our project we'll use our table saw to make short work of this on a larger project I use my handheld skill saw but this is small enough to run through the table saw [Music] next we'll remove our router and saw marks using our random orbital sander we're gonna work our way through sixty grit all the way up to 220 grit on our different levels of sanding discs [Music] our table saw set us up for really clean edges but to finish off that factory look we're gonna use our random orbital sander to be sure and remove any of those saw marks as we sand the edges and the surface of our project or about prepared for the next step we're going to use our trim router to create very nice-looking edges we'll use a 1/4 inch roundover bit on the top of the edge and a 1/8 inch roundover bit on the bottom section of our edge our sanded edges are true and straight so the bearing on our router bed will follow these edges and create a very straight perfect looking edge to do the bottom section of our edge we're going to use our smaller router bit this is a 1/8 inch roundover bit and this will finish up the router on our edges [Music] we'll use our 220 grit sanding discs to finish everything off to prepare for our seal coats we're gonna do this one final time to remove any marks that may have been left by running the router on the surface I'm going to hand sand the round over sections of our edges as well as the corners so that we get nice smooth transitions without router marks it's now time to seal our project we're gonna use our product called quick coat which has a 15-minute working time we'll mix the quick coat at a one-to-one ratio for about 2 minutes we're gonna use a shower squeegee to spread the material all you need is about one ounce per square foot when you're doing a seal coat the quick coat is white at this point because it still contains air from the mixing process we're gonna use the shower squeegee will spread the epoxy nice and thin and then we'll use a torch to remove the excess air bubbles also use your gloved hand and rub those edges to create a seal coat along the edges as well woodworking with epoxy requires multiple thin seal coats before proceeding to your thick flood coat the reason we do this is to seal the wood so it doesn't leak air into your final flood coat by sweeping the propane torch across the surface this will remove those excess air bubbles we're gonna do multiple passes so that all the air has an opportunity to come out any little divots or pits in the surface I'm using my gloved hand to spread the epoxy so I don't have any pools or deep sections of this quick coat don't leave your propane torch in one spot for too long keep it moving along the surface do multiple passes and this will clear that epoxy up beautifully I'm really working this material into the wood I don't want any excess epoxy with air in it left on the surface I'm rubbing any areas that may still have a little air torching that out so that I get a beautiful finish setting me up for the next step don't worry your seal coats aren't gonna look perfect they're gonna be bumpy and wavy and have dry and wet spots that's okay each seal coat will look better and better as you go after about three hours our quick coat is ready to sand will use 220 grit to rough this up and prepare for our second seal coat on large woodworking projects like conference tables we're gonna use our normal stone countertop epoxy because we need a longer working time to do each seal coat we'll finish prepping the surface by wiping the excess dust with our shop rags and then we're ready to mix up our epoxy remember on each seal coat you only need about one ounce per square foot we'll mix that up at a one-to-one ratio we'll mix it for about two minutes and we'll spread that using a normal shower squeegee remember the smaller the amount of epoxy that you're mixing up the more air you're going to entrain simply because of our mixing process that's okay we're gonna use our shower squeegee to spread the material nice and thin and the propane torch will remove any excess air left in that epoxy remember just like the first seal coat we're going to use our gloved hand to apply epoxy to the edges of our project we're gonna use the same propane torch and sweeping motions to remove the excess air out of the epoxy we'll do this multiple times so that the epoxy is nice and clear stone coke countertop epoxy really makes natural wood glow and be careful with that torch be sure to let the second seal coat dry before moving on to the next step we're now ready for our third seal coat our friends Eric and Jeff they have a youtube channel called artist til death they're in our shop they saw this woodworking project and they wanted to see it finished up so they're helping us out jeff has sanded the surface with 220 grit he's wiped the excess dust and we're ready for our third seal coat we had another project going on at the same time so we mixed up a little extra material on this particular pour but again you only need one ounce per square foot when you're doing a seal coat we're gonna use our shower squeegee and spread that material after that we'll use our gloved hand and we'll treat those edges because this is our third seal coat everything's looking more you know there's not light and dark spots everything's coated very evenly and we're getting ready for that final flood coat you wouldn't want to jump into that flood coat at first get it all sealed and you're gonna get beautiful results at the end many slabs of natural wood that we work on have bug holes or imperfections that need to be filled before moving on to a final flood coat we're going to show you the products and steps that we use before moving on to that flood coat right now we sand the surface with 220 grit to create a mechanical bond we sand our edges smooth removing any high points so that we get better final results be sure to remove any excess dust [Music] [Music] now that our surface is sanded and clean we can pick out the perfect color from our assortment pack of our easy fill burnin sticks I really like these fill sticks because these stubborn bug holes will really never get sealed you'll be fighting them over and over again so this is a real good way to cheat fill them up and you'll never know that you fill them when you match the color just right I chose dark walnut as my finished color I'm gonna heat this up using our propane torch and I'm just gonna color it in like a coloring cran don't worry if you make a mess that's no problem we're gonna clean that up in a second these burnin sticks only take seconds to set up so as that's happening I'm gonna push that down into that bug hole really create a nice seal if you need a little bit more just heat the tip of your burn and stick up and make sure it's flush or at least a little higher then that hole actually is we're gonna use a razor blade and come back and scrape the excess off so be sure to fill it in all the way removing the excess burn and stick from the surface is simple we're gonna use a straightedge razor blade will reheat that burnin stick with the propane torch and using multiple passes we'll simply scrape it off the surface we'll repeat this process for any of the stubborn pits and bug holes that are left after those seal coats you once all the bug holes are filled and flushed we're ready for the next step we're going to use our random orbital sander will use 220 grit sandpaper will remove any of those marks caused by that straightedge razor blade and then we're ready to flood code this project [Music] our good friend Paul from Paul's toolbox is going to join us on this flood code and watch this project come to life [Music] hey guys welcome to Stone cook countertops paul from louisiana what's up man oh man nice out here you having fun I'm having a great time we've had fun all day long with projects so this one it's already been sealed three times and Sam it's already had the casting done so instead of usually and then did you like using that trailer I like this I use just a cheap child from Home Depot turtle when you showed me this explained so might you have the right angle on here I show you what angle you need to work with and you set it up like this that's telling you when you do it this way that's the angle you want so I'm gonna put this out now again that's milky right you're gonna torch this crystal-clear let me put a little bit more and I'll scrape the excess off you got you want to trial it I'll do half you do that no you got the whole thing you're almost done yeah you're a pro I'm going to pull all those brushes pull all the bristles wet it up and then I'm gonna start chopping this out see all those lines we're gonna get rid of those and then we're gonna torch this thing and that's when it really starts ghosts are popping in I could do this all day man you just it's it's like we're two little kids just oh yeah I'm gonna kid you can use this in tools and now that's it that's me and you're gonna come to the artists of summit you guys haven't heard about the artisan summit it's it's gonna be next year April third fourth it's gonna be in Las Vegas we we're gonna be at the Westgate and you're gonna talk about your journey and kind of how how you you are on QVC you've invented tools you're a firefighter you've taken your craft turn it into cash by doing the different side houses you've done and and I just think that's I think your story's inspiring that's why I'm just so excited to have you there man there we go there we go I'll get the torch out we'll start clearing this thing up like away and then one thing you don't want to do it it's not it's not perfect yet we'll let that sit for a minute let it let it kind of do its thing that airs going to rise all right we'll let that sit let's start our project okay guys let's sand the drips off the bottom of this project and we'll install legs right now [Music] visit stone coat countertops com2 see all the products used in this video [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] or epoxy rocks stone-cold countertops say visit us anytime at stone countertops comm call anytime for free project support and until next time from Stone Koch countertops you got this we'll see you soon [Music] you [Music]

Channel: Stone Coat Countertops

Views: 2,730,777

Keywords: epoxy, epoxy countertop, epoxy flooring, art resin, epoxy metallic, epoxy table, epoxy resin, epoxy resin table, diy, diy epoxy, leggari, countertop epoxy, stone coat countertops, stone coat, diy crafts, river table, resin table top, how to, how to epoxy, WoodWorking With Resin, live edge, live edge table, wood working, woodworking project, diy woodworking, live edge woodworking, live edge slab, how its made, epoxy coatings, wood finishing, wood finish, oil finish, oil

Id: lrDHEJ28pwo

Length: 27min 59sec (1679 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 26 2018