Why Did Everyone STOP Using this Painting EXPLOIT?!

some people say that miniature painting has gotten too complicated and overwhelming who says that I don't know but it sure sounds ominous doesn't it but to simplistic mini painting equate to worse mini painting I bet they'd like you to believe so who are they no time for that now come with me while you still can sometimes I don't want to think about all the complicated and Advanced Techniques when I sit down to paint a mini I just want to paint a pretty little figure you know and it's Times Like These I just want to get back to basics and if you're anything like me some of the first products you learned how to use were Shades and washes and since there's so many more brands of washes on the market right now I figured I'd test them all out and find out what they do well and what they do not so well and from there I'll show you how I maximize the value of washes and miniature paintings so you can get really good looking figures in next to no time to start off I want to talk about the base color that we're going to put the wash on top of I like to use bright or mid-tone colors for the majority of the model that I'm going to put washes on this will have a big impact by starting with an all-over base coat and then going to a wash I get to add a lot of interest in color depth that I can't get in a product like a contrast paint or a speed paint contrast paints while working fast are innately very one note all you get is a dark a mid-tone and a slightly lighter version of the exact same color so you get no color depth and your model ends up looking very flat but this video isn't about contrast paints it's about Shades and washes in our first brand we're going to look at is the new Citadel line which has a new formula and this new formula has a very low viscosity so it flows over the shapes and into the cracks better than ever there's less pooling on larger surfaces although you still shouldn't use it on large flat sections of your models now the low viscosity doesn't mean that this product is just straight up better it's got a number of things that I think actually hinder it the low viscosity means that the paint moves away from the raised surfaces and into the cracks meaning that there's not much tinting to the overall surface compared to other brands if you just want a base coat and wash and be done these are probably your best product but if you want to spend a little bit more time I prefer these the least because of how little they influence the raised surfaces and if all that paint is leaving the raised surfaces and going into the cracks that means you're most likely to flood out all those details you need to be really careful in using this stuff to Wick away all the extra that's pooling there they're also quite glossy when they dry this is almost certainly a byproduct of creating such a high flow product I personally am not a fan because layering back up becomes difficult because the difference in Finish makes your layer between what was washed and what you're building back up to very pronounced final note on the Citadel washes they have recently come out with a bunch of new colors and more variety is typically better so if you want a lot of variety it's a good brand to get into next we're going to look at a brand new product by AK interactive called Deep Shades these are an acrylic based product and they were nice enough to send me them ahead of them actually being released to test them out they have a thicker consistency right out of the bottle and it felt a little odd when I first used them because the thicker consistency made me feel like they weren't going to work very well and I'm happy to report that I was quite wrong in that even though they're a little bit thicker they flow really really smooth right over the entire model and act very similarly in a final result to other washes the benefit of that extra thickness is that it gives them a longer working time which is extremely valuable washes tend to dry pretty fast and if you touch them while they're drying you get some nasty tears in the paint pigment which has causes weird pulling from that rough texture that pigment leaves behind so I found the overall smoothness of my final wash coat was better with these because I had a lot less worry about the drying time screwing up the paint job they do leave a bit more of the color behind in the raised areas compared to other brands but not nearly as much as something like a contrast paint they also have a number of unique colors not found in other wash ranges in particular my favorites are pure Grime which is similar to their streaking Grime in their enamel line as well as Blue Moon which is a nice soft bluish gray that really works well on lighter cool colors the last two ranges I'm going to talk about are the pro acryl and the two Thin coats washes now the reason I'm talking about these together is because they act very very similarly but don't worry they do have a couple of differences that I will cover first off both of these ranges act very much in the way that the old Citadel washes did they flow into the recesses fairly well although not quite as well as the new GW washes but more importantly they dry to that same slightly shiny but still matte finish that all of our paints we use do now where the two differ is largely in color selection the two Thin coats range currently offers six different washes and they are all color matches to the very popular Games Workshop watches the procreel range currently has three colors a black a flesh wash and a brown and the brown is a little bit more desaturated and while I like to use it for things like battle Grime and weathering I'm more often a fan of the battle mud by two Thin coats and while both Brands blacks are particularly good replacements for the old recipe of null oil I think that the black wash by Pro acryl is my favorite largely because you get so many more ounces for your dollar and if you're anything like me you use a fair amount of null oil and this stuff will last you longer for Less bucks oh and both of these brands are in dropper bottles instead of pots meaning you'll never accidentally knock over a full bottle of egg Rex Earth shade like we've all done now before we jump into painting a couple models there's a couple Universal tips I want to discuss when it comes to using washes first don't be stingy with your wash make sure you get a nice full brush full as you apply it so you get enough wash on the model to get it in all the cracks and crevices next you always want to be working with a wet edge meaning you're working around the model always making sure that the edge never fully dries before you come back to it and keep pushing that wash all the way over the surface and finally look over your model to make sure there's no extra pooling in the cracks and crevices especially with those Citadel washes you can sop this up with a dry brush to make sure that you don't have large section that will look pretty bad if they dry that thick all right let's dig into some tyranid painting testing out a few color schemes and showing how I like to maximize the basic use of washes and paint a good looking model for the skin of our first model we started with a base coat of blue gray by AK interactive followed by a blue moon deep shade now I really am digging this combination which is why I decided to paint this one up based on all of the tests I did at the beginning the step I'm doing now is using that same blue gray base color thinning it down with a little bit of water and redefining all the edges corners and larger shapes and these new tyranine models are perfect for using washes they have so many cracks and details that the wash does so much work all we're trying to do here is redefine all of those shapes by creating highlights that were dulled down by our wash now after this step I'm not going to go any farther on the skin until I block out the base colors on a couple of other areas in the model to really get a good feel for where I want to go for the final product we'll pick out some small details with a brighter wash and that's a good start as it defines some of these interesting aspects of the model with just one quick step this part can be deceptively tricky is you want to have enough of the wash on your brush as it saturates the detail nicely and easily leaves your brush but not so much that it floods over the edges and onto the rest of the model if you do make a mistake with the wash all is not lost just quickly rinse out your brush and gently scrub the area that the wash isn't where you want it to be it'll get soaked up into the brush and all the mistake will be gone if you're anything like me you're still on the lookout for that perfect paint storage system something that keeps you organized but also grows with you as your paint collection expands if that sounds familiar to you then you're not going to want to miss the newest Kickstarter by today's sponsor Cobalt keep this paint storage system comes with magnetized shelves so you can easily grab a shelf from the rack whenever you need those colors one thing I like to do to prevent my workspace from becoming a giant mess is take one of the shells and throw all the paints from my current project onto one rack against the wall that way my workspace stays nice and clear and I still have all the paints I need for the current project the next next time I sit down at the painting desk they're also expandable as the racks snap together so as your paint collection grows you can continue to add more racks for a Sleek Universal system the shelves themselves come in two different sizes so you've got these fatter ones that fit Pro acryl and Games Workshop and some other larger bottles as well as the standard ones that fit just about anything else so any paint in your collection they got a shelf that'll work you've heard me talk about my appreciation for Cobalt keep products in the past many of which I use all the time and here's another one so make sure you click on the link on the kickstarter that's live right now down in the video description and check it out before it's over next I'm going to base coat all the Care paste too I think a nice deep cold color will really make the light skin pop I prefer to find as many details as I can to paint the same color here to speed up the painting process over the course of an entire unit or an army I know I say it all the time I've been painting with more colors does not equal more better instead of painting with a dozen color on this tiernet I'm just going to paint with a couple and I'm going to take that time I saved and I'm going to focus on those little edges and details that really make the model shine and while that base coat is drying I'll slap a wash on the base again you see I started with a brighter texture paste here I used Sunrise Blaze so one wash will just about finish the job I'm also using some careberg Crimson wash thinned down with a lot of water to glaze in a bit of warmth to certain areas around the model it gives the indication that there's some bug blood flowing underneath the skin using thin down washes as tints over select areas of your model is really an amazing technique whether it's just for your army all the way up to display painting so don't be afraid to give it a try it's actually a pretty forgiving technique and pretty easy to pull off with these other colors now on the model I do feel confident that I can punch up the highlights of the skin a little bit more and I'm going to use snow blue for this which is a very bright cold white this step really doesn't take too long although in admittedly these Tiernan models have way more lines and edges than I like to paint on a typical model this may seem like a real pain in the ass but it really is one of the most important steps to make a model go from looking good on the table to looking great we can't have that dark blue carapace looking flat after all the highlights on the skin so I'm going to add a little bit of a lilac color to the base color of the Care paste and just try to hit all the edges along all the plates I could have used a black wash over this carapace color and there'd be nothing wrong with that I just figured it's already such a dark color that it's not going to add a whole lot to the process and then I'd feel like I'd need to re-establish the base color before moving on to the highlights and I don't want to worry about that I finished up the chitin by adding even more lilac to the mix and just touching some edges and Corners to really Define those shapes well so those dark details don't get lost as we look at the model from arm's length [Music] thank you [Music] the last step is to paint the eyes and the teeth white then put in a little bit of a bright red ink into those eyes to make them glow and dab a little bit of a brighter yellow onto the base as highlights because I maximized the value that the wash step brings and cut out all the fat this paint job took me a little over an hour to do but it got me wondering what if I had to cut that time in half and only had 30 minutes to paint one of these guys well we're going to try a different paint Scheme and do just that I bust out my large series D drive brush and lightly hit the entire model with the base color that we put down before the wash there's no layering Rich highlighting here we don't have time for that just make sure your brush has the slightest amount of moisture in it and you take off the paint on a non-absorbent Surface so you don't get that chalky texture that you sometimes see with dry brushing next I'm using a dark rust color to base coat all of the chitin I think it might work well with that camo green color of the skin both the color schemes today I'm just kind of testing out on the Fly and feel free to use either of these as a starting point if you like anything about them for your own bug Army next I hit all the weird slits and Joints with this Targer raid shade color and to be honest with you I kind of regret using the color you can hardly even tell it's there if I had to redo it I'd use a color that a little bit more vibrant reddish orange to it to really make it stand out next I bring out more washes slap one over the base as well as a dark brown wash over all the chitin the dark rust isn't all that dark and I think the wash will do a lot to add more here compared to the last Model I am going to do a final Edge highlight on all the skin but I'm Gonna Be Quick about it I have to make sure that I add enough of an off yellow to our green that this really Pops in the details and all the skin really stands out without too much effort next I do a really quick Edge highlight around all the chitin with a medium rust color now in hindsight this could have been done much faster with a little bit of precision using a dry brush instead of a regular brush [Music] finally I paint those eyes and teeth white and hit the eyes with some fluorescent orange and he's done my big takeaway from this painting experiment and one I hope you leave with as well is that any painting technique whether it's the first one you ever learned or something you've never even heard of has the potential to paint great Minis and you'll have fun doing it and the more you understand and practice with different tools and techniques the more you'll improve your painting skills overall and get pretty darn fast at painting great looking models so you can get that Army done quicker thanks for hanging out today and joining me on my revisiting of washes as fun as it is to learn new things it's often just as fun to revisit old things on a whim and to be perfectly honest with you if it wasn't for your support I wouldn't be able to share all of my whims in video form with you and if you enjoy my videos enough to want to support me a little bit more you could check out the links to all the gear I use down in the video description as well as check out my merch store or maybe even join the motley crew that is the Ninja on patreon links to all those are down below I'm gonna see you back here again real soon and sometime between now and then make sure you find time in your day to slay the gray

Channel: Ninjon

Views: 178,075

Keywords: warhammer, painting warhammer, painting warhammer 40k, painting space marines, painting age of sigmar, miniature painting, mini painting, mini painting 101, miniature painting tutorial, beginner miniature painting, army painting, games workshop, contrast paint, warhammer lore, squidmar miniatures, speed paint, 40k 10th edition, new warhammer, speed painting, eavy metal, ultramarines, tyranids, leviathan, 40k army, combat patrol, warhammer community, new 40k, citadel washes

Id: ZI42GfctqE0

Length: 15min 6sec (906 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 14 2023