Massive Painting FAIL on my Tyranid Kit Bash?!

try as you might sometimes a mini painting project just doesn't go according to plan but hey at least when that happens it's not on a massive mini that you spend a ton of time kick bashing and you're making a video about it oh [Music] not long ago I made a big kit bashed monstrosity out of all the big tyranid models in the Leviathan box and at the end of that video I asked if you wanted to see that monstrosity painted up in a follow-up video well you commented in droves so here we are and I got to admit Not only was I ecstatic about your responses but also about the thought of painting the model myself and if there's one thing I've learned in miniature painting is that if a project excites you you should jump into it with both feet because you never know when that enthusiasm may leave you or if you'll ever get it back and going into the project even though I was excited about it I only had a few things figured out in what I was trying to achieve first off I only wanted to use an airbrush for priming and laying down the initial off-white color for the skin with this lack of an airbrush mean that this project would take much longer and be much more tedious undoubtedly but I thought it would line up well with my next goal which was to paint the model in a clean style much like the game's Workshop box art I thought this approach was pretty simple and straightforward and it looks really nice on these new tiered sculpts so I figured it would work out equally as well on this big sculpt uh spoiler it did not and the final thing I had planned for this project the only thing related to Colors was that I'd have a very pale almost irritated looking flesh and then somehow I'd contrast that with a darker looking carapace but we'll figure that out later I immediately realized that using a wash on a small tyranid model was not the same as using a wash on a model with similar shapes and body structure but approximately 20 times larger and by now we probably all realize that using washes on large sections of models particularly flat ones like Vehicles is not a good idea but I didn't think that I have the utter mess that I did with this weird pooling and staining all over the very organic detailed sections of the model that have a lot of detail in curves that the washes should love wash is acting awful lot like an object rolling down the hill if we make that Hill longer and not equally as steep eventually the resistance of the hill is going to make our object grow to a halt and when that happens our wash just stops even though it hasn't even reached the recess that we wanted to go to yet so at this point I've only just started this paint job and I've already seen the mountain of work that I've put in front of myself it's going to take me so much time to try and undo this mess plus I'm using a light base color so even when I bust out my dry brush to reclaim these oddly stained areas it doesn't completely cover the misplaced wash I seriously consider just re-priming the entire model and starting over from scratch but I actually don't think that that's ever the correct decision to make things don't turn out the way we expect them to all the time in this hobby even exact colors and techniques we used on Model A don't seem to look as good on model B and while this can be frustrating and deflating much like I'm experiencing here this variable of the unknown is one of the most exciting and interesting parts of our hobby think about it this way if we could just close our eyes and picture what a completed model would look like before we ever put our brush to it and the final result mimicked that visualization how boring would that be being surprised by the positive experiments and learning how to work our way out of the negative ones is one of the most rewarding aspects of miniature painting So as discouraging as I was here I knew that if I could learn how to make this sandwich look good well then maybe I'd want to eat it wait that's a bad analogy I don't ever want to sandwich I ended up spending a lot of time re-establishing the base colors with a brush trying to smooth out those ugly washed sections and then built up stronger highlights over all of the skin if I were to repaint this model all over again I would not use a wash at all on this skin instead I would have mixed up a very thin glaze with a color similar to the wash that I used and I would push that into all of the cracks and crevices to slowly build up all the Shadows that I was trying to establish sure that approach does take a longer amount of time but it would take a lot less time and it would look way better than trying to recover from all the mess that the wash gave me learning my lesson I started to use some selective tinting to start bringing in some warmth and irritation to the skin the key to this is to thin down the wash or paint quite a lot with medium and water so you don't get that harsh line where the fade begins of this crimson color thank you I'm also procrastinating here because I can't make a decision on what color to paint all of the carapace on this model so instead I'll just fuss around with some other Reds and purples in this tinting step I'm still reeling a little bit in the terrible decision I made earlier on in this project so I've lost a bit of confidence in anything even as simple as just picking a color but I do need to make that decision here because I don't want to completely finish the skin until I determine how it will look with the rest of the colors on the model I did some research online and came across something called the Eastern Hercules beetle with a wonderful desaturated blue-green shell that has some ocher tones that build up into the highlights and while I don't plan on adding the black dots to the carapace that the beetle has because my tyranid has a lot more interesting details already going on compared to the spherical smooth shell of the beetle at least now I have a bit of confidence in getting started on the painting When painting large sections of a model like this I use as big of a brush as I can get away with but I always stop just sort of where that surface meets any area I've already painted it's easier to come back in with a smaller brush and get all those small areas done cleanly than it is to touch up any mistake I've made by splotching Green over an already completed section I didn't have a paint that was an exact color match to The Beatles shell color so I've tried to mix my own and I feel like it wasn't quite as blue as I'd like it to be I'm going to try to bring back that blue a little bit by adding some blue gouache to the black wash that I'm going to put all over the carapace I know I know I am going to now wash this entire carapace after hating how the wash looked and all the skin why would I do that I'm not a smart man with every day that passes more and more balls are neglected balls that could bring so much Joy to the World are tossed aside in some smelly 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manscape shed travel Bay so to get your very own manscape performance package 4.0 with the two free gifts plus 20 off and free international shipping all you got to do is click on the link down in the video description below and use promo code ninjon at checkout a big thank you to manscaped now let's get back to the video while we wait for that wash to fully dry I'm going to move over to this massive 180 millimeter round base the day prior I primed it with this color I'm just loving called Purple Heart by AK interactive I wanted a dark but interesting Shadow color to start off with on the base and because the purple is nice and warm it melds really really well with our first dry brush layer of dark rust I want this base to look like an eerie Cavern and after this step I'm really liking the direction that it's headed let's set it down and head back to the model back on our big bug we're gonna do some black lining on the carapace and if you've never done black lining before I assure you it is as Dreadful and rage inducing as you'd expect you're mostly just trying really hard to draw a really thin line and not screw up too much pretty straightforward nothing too complex in theory but you know it's not the most enjoyable part part of my day but it is super important because even on big models we have to have clear differentiation in all of the details of the model so we can really see the cool that's going on or at least that's what I try to tell myself while I'm going through this crap from here we need to start building up some highlights on the care pace and I'll add a bit more of the field gray to our base coat mix so it's just slightly brighter than an initial base coat because that wash dulled down our base coat I don't want to go too bright too fast I'll work in Long scratchy lines always pulling the brush towards the edge of each section of the shell this technique is used by the official GW paint schemes and many other painters and it kind of makes sense as the edges of the shell get the most wear and tear from the environment they will have the brightest colors or maybe they're like toenails so they just keep growing in the nastiest part of the toenail is always the part on the edge I don't know I don't really know tyranid toenail carapace lower all that well but that sounds pretty right the next highlight will mix in some ocher and we repeat the same process but just place this layer inside of our previous one so you can still see a good bit of that first layer showing and this mix does look a bit more like baby puke than it does like the shell of our inspirational Eastern Hercules beetle poster but I've now just given up on trying to replicate that shell one to one let's keep moving [Music] thank you the final highlight is pure ocher and we're just hitting the corners and most pronounced edges with this color this pushes that definition we talked about with a black lining the brightest highlight defines the shape without being so literal as to actually trace the entirety of it oh and I do want to mention the paint consistency for all these layered up highlight steps because I think it's really important we want to visually see the change in brightness with each step but we don't want the paint so thick and opaque that it creates rough distinct definition between the colors so I like to add one part paint to one part water for colors that tend to have a high natural opacity like the ones I'm using here if the paint I'm using is naturally more transparent I'll add less water so I can still get that coverage I'm looking for in just one coat with our carapace done I'm now going to revisit the skin and find ways that I can add more interest or color depth now that I know what the whole color scheme looks like overall I do want to keep this pale sickly look but I'm still going to create a very thin magenta glaze and try to boost the vibrancy around the mouth and tentacles as well as the ends of his largest legs and you can easily push this more by adding darker and still very saturated colors both on the joints as well as some of the smaller details around the model [Music] foreign [Music] back to the base and I want to continue this warm almost Sunset inspired color scheme going by adding avrilyn sunset for our highest highlights there's a lot of interesting forms and features on this base but I don't want it to distract from the model itself it should be a fun accent that improves the entire piece rather than creates too much noise after a few final touch-ups on the face it's finally time to glue this monstrosity to its base which is easier said than done when all of the connection points are only tiny little bits of legs lucky for us gorilla super glue gel is always up to the job we're in the final stretch here but I want to share one easy trick that turned out pretty darn well and I'm proud of and after all of the crap that I went through on this I'm going to take any small victory I can get we've got this smoke coming out of the bugs blowholes I guess after a dark gray base coat in a black dry brush I take out my enamel liquid pigment fire red and I Jam that into the most recessed areas after it sets up for about 15 seconds I come in with a Q-tip with just a touch of mineral spirits on it and buff the edges of that flaming hot red don't touch the center of the enamel that we placed we want that to keep super vibrant and intact but as we fade it around the edges we're actually going to create a natural soft transition that works really cool for this smoke AK interactive makes a bunch of different colors of this enamel liquid pigment and I think we've just kind of scratched the surface of kind of cool effects we can get out of this stuff then we add a little blood effect to the dismembered Space Marine arm that our Hive Queen is helping cross the street and our massive big bug is done every time I paint a big model I'm reminded how they're a totally different experience and while I'll catch myself in some sticky situations because things that work on small models don't always work on large ones I do think it's pretty awesome that we can have a fun change of pace and paint something big for our armies or just for the love of painting I don't know about you but in every single one of my Warhammer armies I hold off to the very bitter end before I paint the big Flagship model maybe it's because they're so intimidating maybe it's because they're the most expensive models that I'm afraid of screwing it up or maybe I just don't want to commit how many hours I know it'll take to paint but this project has taught me that I shouldn't do that and neither should you whether it's a brand new model you just bought one that's been in your closet for years or something you've kit bashed yourself life is short paint the fun stuff thanks for hanging out today your interest in these more involved larger projects really do inspire me to do more I never thought I would own a massive bug that's housed on a dinner plate but now I can't see how I ever lived without one if I've earned your YouTube subscription a big thank you you allow me to keep doing this if I haven't earned it yet well I'm gonna keep working hard so maybe one day you can't help but subscribe if you support me on patreon you're a goddamn champion and I can't thank you enough it's because of you that I can spend the many hours it takes to make these videos and if you aren't a patron you can always click on the link down in the video description and check out all the cool stuff you get if you decide to join us over there I'm gonna see you again back here next week with another video and sometime between now and then make sure you find time in your day display the gray

Channel: Ninjon

Views: 130,140

Keywords: warhammer, painting warhammer, painting warhammer 40k, painting space marines, painting age of sigmar, miniature painting, mini painting, mini painting 101, miniature painting tutorial, beginner miniature painting, army painting, games workshop, contrast paint, warhammer lore, squidmar miniatures, speed paint, 40k 10th edition, new warhammer, speed painting, eavy metal, ultramarines, tyranids, leviathan, 40k army, combat patrol, warhammer community, new 40k, kitbash, kit bash

Id: 3102REGLYmg

Length: 15min 54sec (954 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 28 2023