How to Tyranid Paint Carapace *ANY* colour - Contrast Hacks

welcome Citadel shade and contrast lovers yes I have just been xenophiled by the rain at least I'm not being killed by hay fever which has been the last two weeks of recording anyway today we have a brilliant one we have my new favorite way to paint carapace which is on the new tyranids using systyle contrast this isn't just for carapace though you could apply this to scales and then kind of uniquely the thing that's helpful about this is those flowy organic smoothish surfaces but still you know with some small details in them that normally are problematic for contrast this method is brilliant for so you've got something for the scales which is just you know the normal contrast how we've used it in previous videos a lot of it's been on dragons um we're taking those Concepts kind of spreading them out thinning them down and taking a little bit more time and that will allow you to cover those smooth flowing areas where maybe you've had ugly pulling or stuff in the past works really really well it's very very good fun not only are we arming you with how to approach any flowing surface with contrast but we're also gonna give you the tools at the end of this tutorial so stick around for those for you to be able to apply this with any color not just the colors that we're demonstrating or showing examples of you can apply this technique with any color you like we're going to give you a few rules to follow very very simple and with those rules you can go away look at your contrast scheme or your color scheme that you got currently and then work out how to apply this technique with your colors if you're new here please like please comment Please Subscribe definitely do subscribe so you've got lots of similar content coming up if you're into the tyranids I've really enjoyed the models and we've got Test games one coming out soon which has been very very widely requested one thing that we do do is the most liked comment below will receive a brush set of that's using and a texture palette if they're 260 even if you don't have any suggestions for us for future content pop down there and give a like to whatever you think is the best question suggestion or criticism we'll take them on board as well anyway let's jump in I really enjoyed this one the end result kind of speaks for itself banana was my favorite I don't know which one's your favorite we did quite a few in the end but um yeah let's go so this is what we've just achieved and I'm going to show you how to achieve it on this guy it's pretty simple and basically it takes contrast those laptop principles and it applies them with a little bit more patience you may have seen this theme recurring in our previous content the reason that is is because I think this is the best way to get the most out of contrast using all the benefits of it and then kind of enhancing them a little without necessarily adding additional steps not any highlights on this but you could absolutely add highlights and this would be a perfect base for them so let's go we have our model it has been basicated by hand well if you need to put under the base coating by hand that's fine so this was Prime Chaos back because I like that as a base gave it a light dusting of white and then I've base coated it with screaming skull so we're going to Snapchat this which means there is going to be some dry brushing involved I have some Vallejo white on the palette you could use premium color basically we just need one more step over this and that is to make the raised bits slightly lighter than the other bits of course laptop normally goes from black through gray to white but you've skipped the first step because we're going for really bright one here the color that I've got is um screaming scale by the way you could use any pastely color like pastel pink or pastel green would be absolutely fine depending what you've got going um going over the top of it this is just pretty neutral and I quite like the behavior of the paint there we go super televised areas slightly more my brush could have been cleaned a bit more beforehand but it's fine okay stage one so we're gonna put down a lighter base um and then we're going to kind of make it dark with the following steps so the base is going to involve a little bit of puke and orange and maybe a tiny bit of Imperial first we've also got sepia on hand if needed shake them hard whatever you're using I can't give you any ratios for this obviously I could fold this mix but you can use the exact same methods for any color you can think of and rather than giving you a ratio I'm just going to give you how this looks against a reflective surface because I think that is about as good a measure as you're going to be able to get Barrel fist a bit stronger it's got a really warm orange there and I'm just gonna grab a little bit of a shade I'm just gonna thin it down now the base coat is going to go down in probably two steps and this is how I approach all contrasting even if I'm going for speed it is absolutely worth doing the Second Step always two thinner steps generally will give you a kind of more consistent result now I've picked an orientation which is one where I can easily reach all the bits that I need to from I'm going to try and not change that orientation on my model one bit if I change the orientation while the paint started running in One Direction it's going to start running in another Direction and that is bad something you need to bear in mind while it's drying too you know even if it's not in your hand the orientation is still a thing so I'm not allowing any excessive pooling anywhere and the way that I think of this is my model becomes my little Dippy palette so I'll put down probably more than is needed but then I will use that section as my palette until I'm not getting enough on the brush and then I'll repeat that process until I've covered all of the model you have to work kind of fast with contrast so be confident but don't put quite as much on your brush as maybe you're used to if you're allowing yourself to be messy which we all go over your edges it's safer than trying to go up to them you might end up missing bits because you just about couldn't see them and go all the way around the edges on this it's very helpful to have somewhere to hold your models as well okay so I don't think we've got apart from a little hole that we had there had a window in it I don't think we've got any excessive pooling anywhere that we need to fix one thing that you can do is I have a little kind of this holds my dippy well pellets here and then I might have a tablet or a phone just propped up here for art reference so if you're unsure about pulling areas or anything like that just pull up a GW model the same one that you're doing get the right angle on the 360 view they're really clean and clear with their paint jobs they're very very precise so the readability is very high so if you're looking where to place a highlight and you're not sure you can always just copy those all right let that dry it and come back and we're just going to repeat that quick note if you're batching this probably isn't required but if you are using a hair dryer on models when you're using contrast or washes ever waggle it around a little bit after hair drying it and let the model cool down because the warm model will actually drastically decrease the drying time for your washes or your contrasts and that's quite bad that means that you'll get title marks more easily or generally you might make mistakes more right our model has been cooled down I'm just going to repeat that step again worked quite well last time going um bottom top to bottom so I'll reverse it and the reason for doing that is if there's anything that's kind of caused by me doing things in a certain order I want to get rid of them we don't want it to be thick anywhere just looking to carefully tint it in the directions that we want again no excess pulling and work quick generally speaking the advice I give most people is put Less on your brush and just go faster okay we're getting beginning to build up that depth now okay so while it dries what I'm going to do is I'm quickly going to take some care about crimson I'm going to add it into my mix while we're here because it's evaporated a little bit I'm just going to grab some contrast medium so you get a little bit of pulling I should have mopped up here sometimes it can look okay but in the middle of a section like that it should either be full or not or we kind of went halfway between the two so with some slightly deeper colors going on this should be where we start seeing the potential of the technique got a bright orangey base and now we're just looking to tint it in whatever direction we want if you live in a hotter country or you're in the UK currently where it is unbelievably unprecedentedly hot you might want to use a little bit more medium or you could use a soft shade like we've used the sepia just to kind of dilute it a little bit more I'll give you more drying time and it'll kind of soften things the other option is to work really quick but at a certain speed you're just going to increase your chance for mistakes okay looking good I might have gone a tiny bit too thick at one section here so I'm going to be particularly careful there in following stages now I'm trying to be a little bit braver with our Caribou crimson [Music] so watered it down with water here and we're going to carefully try and run it into some recesses taking a lot of it off the brush and basically now after this many steps we've got some really good indications on the model of where the pooling has happened they're going to be our guidelines you can see this one in particular that's kind of really showing us very good example you can also use the GW model behind you for this and what we're going to do is starting in the middle of areas that are next to areas you want darker we're just going to push towards an endo stroke in the darker areas called your liftoff point the last place that your brush has been it will leave the most pain it works with paint and for washes and for contrast for everything it's the opposite of a pencil so whether you're copying the guidelines set by the contrast already or you want to enhance a particular bit you just start next to the bit and then end in the part that you'd like to become the darkest so for me these top details that we have here if I want it to be darker at the top of that or the bottom of that you do like that [Music] I like that okay so we're just scooting around now after the first step which I tend to be a little bit too delicate with because I'm worried but you know it's sensible to be where I like that it's pretty much always the case that I'll just gain in confidence and then after that I'll be a lot braver and it's here where we can really enhance things and of course if you put a dark Edge next to a lighter Edge which happens a lot on carapace or things like this you end up with instant areas of high contrast and we've got all of this without actually putting a an edge highlight down anywhere that is essentially it you can go for as long as you want the more transparent the layers are the easier you can get away with it I'm going to quickly tint the entire thing once I've exaggerated a few of these and then that'll give you an idea of kind of the overall impression that you can get so having done that final step is just to carefully lay this down all over so you want to use it pretty thin this is a glaze we've already been glazing even though it's with contrasts we've got some shades mixed in I guess and we're going to softly pull this all over everywhere it'll pull more on the recesses as a matter of default but you're not aiming for it to pull in the recesses I'm gonna quickly go over we don't want it too thick at any one point mop it up if you do just press your brush into it don't use a brush that's too small for this by the way you'll just give yourself a harder job you want a brush that's got good mopping capabilities and with this all over that should tie everything we've done together and if you wanted to at this point you could absolutely Edge highlight it and it would look incredible but it already looks great final um like really really important powerful option is to put satin varnish down over this and instantly that'll add a load of the depth and all the stages you've done I'll kind of highlight those in a really beautiful way okay so that went really well now how do you take our principles and what are our principles to apply them to whatever colors you like it's pretty easy and it can be broken down into four fairly simple steps so your base coat or your undercoat is going to be generally a light color if you would like a darker end effect then you can absolutely choose like a darker gray or a brown or something like that but we're kind of it's like slap drop but you just skip out the black so we're going from the Light Middle color that was all over it could be xenothold if you like and then a light dry brush of white just to hit those edges a little extra bit you need to start from a light base because we're putting down multiple layers and you cannot add lightness without going back and adding white and we're doing washes so you can't do that so as a result we have to start a little bit lighter brighter and that's going to keep our end result lighter of course you can just take it down and down and down and down and down until you're happy with it so there's not really any downsides to that light base as long as you're willing to put a few more steps in step two is your kind of contrast mix which I would do once twice twice as your minimum really you want a decent coverage on this and this is what's going to lay that foundation for the rest of your colors to deepen over if it is a mix like ours was probably the mix is going to involve a contrast color and then a slightly darker color which you'll be put in a bit that might be a shade it might be a contrast it could be the red or the sepia or something like that that deeper color is going to come into things in the next step step number three this is your X Factor your deepening color and this is where you get kind of the the cool bit I don't know how to put it this is where you get the nice stuff uh using this method so you're gonna have your lightest color at the very edges and then the recess is you're going to have your darkest color between that in that little Zone this is where this color your X Factor is really going to make a difference for us that was the red so it's like a deeper color if you look at your main color check out the color wheel you don't have to have one in your hands don't get scared about the concept of this very simple principle look at your main color and you can go up to three hops to one side or the other to a deeper color and that will be your shade color so that could be red for us on top of our yellow it could be purple on top of blue these ones that I've actually done they've all worked stuff like that inversely for your highlights you could just go in the opposite direction or you could add a bone color step number four this is quite a simple one and this is kind of a homogenizing uh coat that you put over everything so whatever's happened if things have gone really well or if they've not gone really well you're still going to try and tie things together at the end so you could be using your X Factor color for this very thin all over like two or three thin coats thin down a lot and that all you know deepen everything and darken everything slightly or you could take your starting color and you could thin that down and you can put that over it and then maybe that'll bring it up a bit if that was our yellow it'll bring us you know it keep things slightly lighter and brighter if it was already a darkened everything make it look a bit deeper a bit more saturated entirely up to you either is fine you can always experiment in a recess which is what I tend to do or you know around a hidden bit under a leg or something like that if you're not sure kind of a bonus bit to touch on the highlights again something we've done we did it on our Dragon bust that was very popular is you can just take a any off-white color or a pastel and you can add what was your first color to it so the contrast colors that are quite strong these days if you take something like screaming skull or Ivory or pastel blue or pastel green or anything like that and you take a little bit of the mix that you used initially is your very first coat your one to two coats of contrast and you dot that in there that will instantly change that color to something that makes sense as a highlight color you can then use that to highlight your mini and you can reduce the amount of your contrast mix that's in it or add a white to that or something for highlights as well pretty simple quite basic but a really good way to approach kind of deepening down with your X Factor and then highlighting of the highlights if you want to spend that extra time maybe for a character model or something like that that's it that's all the rules so let's see us taking them in theory and applying them to something you got a green there we go that's a green slightly yellowy green I think we use Mantis Warriors and very simply and look what's deeper blue I'm going to go a couple of steps to turquoise or to Blue in this direction if you've got a pure green you could go to a blue violet if you wanted but whatever you do it's just hopping three steps in one direction it'll be a really good way to kind of deepen things and bring them down don't go really far because if you choose opposite things on a color wheel you just end up making brown so unless that's what you want don't do it um you can if you want to desaturate stuff and you do want things Brown you've got so many choices out there um seraphim Sapia sepia is a really good kind of soft gentle way to do it and you can put a little bit of purple in there or something like that if you want to kind of deepen it even further any questions about this stuff whatsoever do you ask below and also if you want to see someone who is a genius of color stuff and explanation check out Marco njm not just Mecca his channel He is wonderful as a person and also as a teacher so uh yeah check out his stuff so uh yeah let's see how our green one went [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] all right we are done that's it so hopefully that has brought some kind of general concepts to you that maybe you can start thinking about in your own painting if any of them have been difficult or used any terminology or anything like that that you find um you know it makes it unhelpful just pop it below and we'll clarify anything you need the viewers in the comments are also really helpful there's maybe something else to jump in and get your question there we do read each and every one even if we don't get time to reply to them but um yeah thank you very much for tuning in Please Subscribe we've got plenty more content coming soon reversible onslaught of it I touched on this earlier I have been being murdered by hay fever so we're going to have a few more voiceovers on our stuff um because I just simply haven't been able to talk and looking at a camera has been making me cry it still is now a little bit even though it's raining outside yeah that's going to be noticeable in some of the content as is my voice which is beginning to go I managed all of this that I'm proud of myself so yeah plenty one content coming up whether I'm voiceovering it or not and there are a few things that we've hinted at in the past that we're going to drop soon the test schemes uh is a big one it's a very very large uh just kind of honest look at what it is like to try and design a color scheme and to try and get there with some test models so it takes us four goes but it turned out really well and um we'll pop up the end result of that somewhere on screen now there's several two and it's the tunings are great I will be doing some Space Marine stuff soon and we've got one on dry brushing to a high quality and then Edge highlighting which is kind of a first formal look at it as a technique in the channel so um plenty exciting stuff to come thank you very much for watching we'll catch you in the next video thank you

Channel: Artis Opus

Views: 134,048

Keywords: warhammer, artis opus, tabletop, board game, wargaming, mini, miniature, hobby, games workshop, painting

Id: C_8e9K2lF6A

Length: 19min 31sec (1171 seconds)

Published: Mon Jul 03 2023