What Causes BAD Print Quality on the Ender 3 V3 KE? - Fast Bed Slinger

hey I'm Mike welcome to need it make it if you're an owner of a creality ender3 version 3 Model k a fast beds Slinger with a lot of good features and some good potential as well you may be struggling with the quality of your 3D prints in this video we're going to see if we can figure out what is causing the poor quality with petg and some pla prints as well and what exactly we need to do to fix it so stick around this video is a continuation of my previous video on this printer which was more of a full review that one will be linked up there if you want to check that one out and while testing this printer we had some good results with PLA and we had some good results with one of the three petg filaments that I tested I've printed hundreds and hundreds of prints with pet G and I have not seen these kinds of problems so it was a bit baffling to me so what we need to do is tick off the possible causes one at a time now after taking apart the extruder in the last video it looked like that could be a factor the hot end and the nozzles are the same ones that I used on my K1 and the results on the K1 have been very good so far so I don't believe that that is the source at the moment so let's start with the extruder my plan is to take the extruder from the K1 and retrofit it into this printer and we should be able to see if using a different extruder which is designed to print at high speed solves the issues we're running into I also have a nice lgx large ear extruder from bonch that I'd like to use as well but it's heavier and it also would require a special micro 1 mm spacing four pin adapter wire to use it so I think that's going to have to be a last resort this is the extruder from my K1 I've since replaced it with a new extruder uh there's been a couple versions of this particular extruder but this one's still in good condition doesn't look good but it seemed like it fit fairly well onto the original stepper motor that came off of this all right so we have have a bit of a problem here the original Sprite extruder was able to sit down quite a bit lower so we're going to need to ditch the cover and rig something up to make sure that we can make it work for this test I've created a simple bracket from abs and then with some heat set inserts we should be able to mount this onto the existing bracket and it should be stiff enough I think to do the job [Music] so I've just rigged this up temporarily we'll see if this actually works and if we can get it to work then that means that we can start to dial in some of the settings because I think the gear ratios are going to be completely different between the two extruder setups so let's go ahead we're going to test some things out see if we can get this to work and if we can we may need to root this printer and be able to access the configuration file [Music] okay so that does confirm that we have a problem unfortunately this setup here has the opposite rotation of the original and it must be because the K1 extruder has one more gear in here than this one does which causes that rotation to reverse okay so what we need to do now is go through the process of rooting this and then we'll gain access to the configuration [Music] file so I have rooted the printer I have gained access to the configuration file through fluid I can't actually remember if it's fluid or main cell but in any case I was able to modify the rotation of the stepper motor and I think I've got it working so let's just do a quick test okay first I'm going to do an extrude and then I will do a retract so the retract first extrudes a little bit and then pulls back up and then quickly pulls up afterward okay that seemed to work okay so let's get some parts going the purpose here is just to see if swapping the extruder solves the problem so let's go through some prints of different materials and see if that helps at all since I've already calibrated these materials in the last video I'm just going to reuse those values and for anything new I will do a PA test pressure Advance test and again I printed the same part on my K1 using the same exact prisent pet G as well just so we can compare I have had good results on all my printers with Orca slicer so all of these tests will be done through Orca slicer since the printer is now rooted and I can send it to the printer wirelessly I have not calibrated the extruder yet so in the config file I referenced the extruder for the K1 and I was able to match the rotation distance from 7.53 and change it to 6.9 and then we'll rerun the parts now obviously we don't have enough cooling so I've added a separate fan beside the [Music] printer [Music] we're seeing the same result as the original extruder so I've swapped the nozzle back to the original that came with the [Music] printer so again this same results let's try out hyper pla that we had pretty good results with in the previous [Music] [Music] video we're also going to try out Sparkle [Music] pla [Music] [Music] while all this is set up I'm just going to run some noname pet G as well that I've [Music] dried [Music] [Music] [Music] and I've also run a series of tests using bamboo green basic pla even though I'm using the extruder from the K1 and the hot end is effectively the same as what is on the K1 we're still seeing the same issues as the previous test the nozzle swap didn't seem to have any impact on the results and I wouldn't really expect it to since this hot end is capable of extruding far beyond the speeds that we're running this printer at so from what I can tell we have made no progress whatsoever with the extruder let's swap it back to the original setup and at least we can get our part Cooling back and we can move on from there so there are a few things that keep on coming to mind the K1 produces good results and consistent results with the exact same parts so what is left what is the difference the issues seem to be more common with pet G pet G is a little bit strange when it comes to the nozzle rubbing on the filament as it's being extruded so it could be somehow related to this I also have another hunch and it's going to require me to test two parts at the exact same time this is something I have not done with this printer yet so is it possible that we're going to see different results depending on where the parts are positioned on the printer and if this is the case it may explain why the results aren't completely consistent so in the previous video I had some really good results with black pet G and all of of the other pet G prints were not that good they were positioned in different places on the build plate so let's get two test pieces going and one of them is going to be positioned towards the front and the other one is going to be positioned in the middle and we'll see if we can prove this Theory so I've been watching the printer and I think I can see what's happening it's a little bit too fast to see clearly but the carriage is vibrating the model towards the front is definitely showing some of the worst results of this problem that I've been having and this is also bamboo pla so it is not just an issue with material this is an issue with the poor fit of the linear bearings on the rods and now it is finally making sense to me when I printed the black pet G and I had really good results in the last video the part was centered when I printed the other pet G models they were towards the front of the bed even though the one in the middle does still show some very slight signs of it so if that's the case we can try our own solution to the problem and I don't expect it's going to work perfectly but I would like to see at least an improvement or also just a difference because if there's at least a difference we can be definitive that the movement and vibrations of the bed are the source of the problem I'll salvage some parts for my end3 version 2 so that we can build our own bearing blocks of a different type I'll take the wheels over to the lathe but first I need a mandrel so we can machine this piece of brass down to fit inside of the wheels perfectly [Music] and I can also attach them with a washer and a [Music] bolt I can then machine a concave shape into each of the six of them and that will allow them to hug onto the rods properly and I'm just eyeballing these since this is just a test and I'm also going to be building in some adjustment to this mechanism with all of those pieces finished I can add the bearings back in all right so this is my solution so I have these two ABS blocks this is The Eccentric nut which allows some adjustability in these wheels yes I could have designed it without that but I figured it'd be better to have some adjustability so that I could bring everything just to the right amount of tightness against these rails so this is not a final solution this is just a test so let's go ahead and get these prepped first thing I need to do is to tap these two holes this one here with the eccentric it's going to sit in here and it's going to have a nut on the [Music] top [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] is [Music] [Music] because I had to raise this up I've had to add this extension because this was the the screw originally which activated the switch and then this is the Mount which spaces off for the [Music] [Music] belt [Music] [Music] [Music] all right guys so before if I pressed on here i' get movement at the front and I didn't realize and I guess it was an assumption because of the weight just pushing down it was also lifting up and moving down and if you got you pressed out here if you pressed out here e it would easily move up and down uh now we can go ahead and test this out now I'm not quite sure about the probing because the Zed height is going to be so far off hopefully the Z height will be accounted for with the probe up here let's go ahead and get that set up and I'm under no assumption that this is going to be anywhere close to level it's probably going to be quite a bit further off off than what we had originally uh but that's okay I'm just going to rely on the bed leveling to take care of that as long as it's not out by too far so I'm going to preheat the bed to 60 and I'll tell you what I'm going to go ahead and clear out the bed level that's in there right now cuz it's actually pretty close and then we'll redo it and see how close they [Music] are [Music] okay so the bed is out on the front by quite a bit unfortunately so I'm just going to add spacers underneath here okay so we're going to do another test we have one in the middle one off to the corner the exact same test as the last time using the same filament this is not an ideal setup whatsoever unfortunately I couldn't get the wheels very far apart but I was limited by this area here so the wheels would have come and hit this also how high I had to raise this in order to use the existing hardware for my Ender 3 so this should have been quite a bit further down down and that way this wouldn't wobble as much also the linear bearing does have a lot less friction than the setup that I have so when it moves to the front we are seeing some vibration it's really probably just a combination of the setup that I have and the fact that this is so high but we should still see better results in the middle than we're seeing out [Music] here well I screwed up a little bit after the green prints had finished I tested the flex again while looking really closely underneath there and I noticed that the wheel at the back on this side and the wheel at the front on this side we're not quite making perfect contact so I've tightened them up I'm going to do another [Music] [Music] print [Music] well let's see how we did so these three samples were printed with linear bearings these samples over here were printed with the wheel setup and I've got the marked front or middle we have the Middle with the linear bearings results were not too bad and you can see here it's kind of a rough textured surface and if I take a look at the petg version it shows it off far better I'm not 100% convinced that the material does not impact this but it seems as though it's lesser of an issue than the movement itself okay so then we can compare the green with the wheel setup versus the green with the bearings and the results are pretty close towards the front that's a little bit of a different story the results are are quite a bit different this is towards the front with linear bearings we have that rough surface and this one was more of a rubbery look we've lost the crisp edges and it looks as though it's melting so definitely we have completely different results neither one of them are really acceptable and then I have pet G again this one looks as though it it's kind of giving that melted look to it as well somewhat rounded edges and then we have the front and it's even more so the case this one looks as though it's melting completely it's almost as if it's made of rubber so the edges are too rounded over see some undulations but it's nothing like the results that we see here so pet G this one's pet G as well okay so obviously my solution wasn't perfect I wanted to whip these together from what I had in my shop but what we can see with no other changes than these bearing blocks that I added we have pretty good results again near the center of the bill plate and the piece towards the front is impacted by that movement and vibration but this time it was a little bit different than the linear bearings and it was more of a sponge spring-like motion as opposed to more sharp movements after going through this process and learning quite a bit I understand now they chose to use a steel Carriage rather than aluminum Carriage below the heat bed because of its stiffness and they've used linear bearings because they minimize the friction and allow really quick movements to be possible so what is the right Final Solution here now that we know the problem well there are two options that I can working one is to replace these rods with the correct 8 mm or slightly over 8 mm rods and having a bit of preload here on the bearings would probably be a good thing to keep everything as stiff as possible but the better option is to use linear rails and I don't have the parts to retrofit anything onto my printer in this video but if you'd like to see that option use give this video a like and leave a comment and I will get the parts and make a follow-up video to this video the problem seems so obvious now looking back at it I remember thinking that the side to side motion of the bed was a problem but the up and down was not a problem because of the weight of the bed keeping it down unfortunately that's not quite true because with the faster speeds of this Sprinter it will want to lift or fall depending on which direction it's going and although the wheels that we were seeing on some of the older printers weren't really ideal for fast-moving printers because they have more friction they do allow some adjustment to keep them tight and they also had a longer Central guide rail which meant that the wheels were spaced further apart for even more stability so if you have this problem and you want the best results right now print in the middle of the bed for every single part but if you want a long-term solution I'd recommend swapping out for linear rails so if I've made a video about installing the linear rails on this printer it will be linked up above here make sure that you like and subscribe if you are enjoying this type of content and hit that notification Bell as well so you always know when a new video is released so so I hope you enjoyed this video and thank you to all of my patrons for helping to support this Channel and making videos like this possible take care everybody and we will see you on the next [Music] [Music] one

Channel: NeedItMakeIt

Views: 27,537

Keywords: How to get better quality prints, how to increase print quality, better prints, better 3d prints, The fastest 3d printer, which printer is the fastest, Bambu Lab X1 Carbon, Creality K1, Creality Extruder Problem, Problem with Creality K1, Does slowing my printer down help?, Should I slow my printer down?, Ender 3, New Ender 3, New Creality Printer, Best new 3d printer?, which is the best printer?, Is a bed slinger any good?, Can a bed slinger print fast?

Id: B06lTrhjC5s

Length: 23min 37sec (1417 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 03 2024