Creality Ender 3 V3: IN-DEPTH review, does CoreXZ (not XY) make any difference on a bed slinger?

welcome back to Aurora Tech Channel today I will review the creality Ender 3v3 it looks like this is the new top-of-the-line Ender 3 Model based on its price I've previously reviewed the Ender 3v3 SE which is a basic Marlin based beds Slinger that cost less than $200 as well as the Ender 3v3 ke which has a very similar appearance aside from adding a linear rail on the xaxis and running Clipper firmware instead of marlin it costs $80 more at $279 this Ender 3v3 looks completely different the kinematics motion system extruder bed leveling system and the appearance are all different and it costs about $100 more than the K at $389 let's take a look at what we can get from this Ender 3v3 the print volume is a standard 220x 220x 250 mm ender3 size the kinematic is core XZ which is like flipping a core XY frame and making it work as the x and z axis so you won't see any lead screw on this machine the Gantry is a onepiece diecast aluminum the z-axis is using 8 mm linear rods and the X and Y axis are using dual 10 mm linear rods the bent delin is also using four string gauges plac underneath the bed to sense the pressure from the nozzle the Z offset is automatically set the maximum bed temperature can reach up to 110° C and the maximum nozle temperature is 300° C the nozzle is a tri metal Quicks swap nozzle and it can print abrasive fillament like nylon carbon fiber right out of the box the Clan's maximum print speed is 600 mm/s with a maximum acceleration of 20,000 mm/s squared similar to the k1c for the cooling system it has two high RPM fans one installed at the back of the print head and another installed inside the front cover the filament holder is placed at the right side of the machine with a support stand which works as a clamp to prevent the filament from tangling the firware is rning Clipper the 4.3in touchcreen as well as the screen UI is the same as the one on the k1c so it's like a bed Center version of the k1c I would like to thank reality for sending us this machine to review and for sponsoring today's video and with that let's get started the box of the machine is very compact similar to the box of a regular Ender 3 all parts are protected with laser cut foam the Gantry is a one piece aluminum with the print head pre-installed we have the base with the Y AIS and print bed the Gantry with print head and the X and z-axis a 4.3in touchscreen the filament holder also came with a 3D printed support stand some tools cables sample filament and user manual before we put the Gantry on top of the base we need to flip the switch to set the correct voltage if you don't do it now the Gantry will block the switch to secure the Gantry we need to tighten two screws on each side from the front then flip the printer over and tighten four more screws from the bottom snap the screen at the front of the printer and connect some cables for the filament holder I will snap it on the right side of the machine later after it's on select language followed by the agree to whatever it says screen then select your SS ID and enter your local Wi-Fi password set the time zone then it shows a screen for the creality cloud you can use your phone to scan the code that binds the machine to your creality cloud account out if you don't want to use it and prefer to print within your local network simply press next it will start doing self test and calibration the whole process will take a little more than 10 minutes for the input shaping unlike previous cality machines that only test one axis it will test the xaxis first followed by the y- AIS then it is another home and moves the print head to the back of the print bed to clean the nozzle finally it will do a 25p Point Auto bed leveling it's using the nozzle to probe the bed and four strin bees installed underneath the bed will sense the pressure and create a mesh okay the self test is done I will Mount the spool holder and load some filament it's a bit weird to see all the cables and including the heated bed hotend and filament holder all placed on the right side this makes the right side a bit crowded and the left side of the machine is empty anyway let's start our first print and see if everything is working normally I will start with one of the sample G-Code files there is a 13 minutes Beni let's print it and see how it looks once the print is started the machine home itself again as you can see it go all the way up as the limit switches of the X and z-axis are installed at the top then it travels back down to set the Z offset by using the nozzle to probe the [Music] bed it's printing very aggressively it looks like the speed is at least 100 mm/ second even for the first layer I will let it print a a few more layers reach its top speed and do a sound test the sound meter is placed around 6 in away when its printing the sound level is maintained at around mid-50s when it has rapid movement the sound can reach up to 60 or above [Music] [Music] [Music] the print finishes in 13 minutes I will print two more Benes at different speeds and compare the result starting with one sliced using creality print using the default 0.25 mm layer height at 300 mm/s this one took 33 minutes I will also use Orca slicer to slice a 0.2 mm layer height at 300 mm/ second this one took 41 minutes let's compare the results I'll let you guess which is which the one on the right is the fastest one from the side all of them look pretty good besides the layer height difference the surface quality are all very similar all of them are decent but not perfect when we look from the front the cooling of the 13 minutes one is not as good as the other two from the top they all look good let's do some more test prints starting with some of our benchmark prints for clearance testing I will print a number slider it appears that the Z offet is a bit low but I can still see gaps between those tiles so I suppose it won't affect the [Music] [Music] clearance [Music] the print took 2 hours and 26 minutes to finish which is slightly faster than most new generation Clipper machines the tiles are separated without sticking together and the bottom also looks pretty good all tiles can move freely then I will print my own honeycomb box for the retraction [Music] [Music] test since this model requires extruding a tiny bit of filament and retracting it immediately it's a tough test for the extruder [Music] the print took a little over 2 hours which is also slightly faster than average however it strings a little more than I would expect so I will run the same G-Code again and print two more one with City's own filament and the other with sunlu filament to see if there is any difference it seems like the results are very similar all patterns are printed without any broken honeycomb but the stringing is not not the best let's compare those printed by other machines with the same sunl POA all of them can print all the patterns without broken honeycomb while the GDX smart 3 strings the most followed by the Ender 3v3 the A1 Mini looks better in terms of stringing take a look at the bottom while the nozzle height of the xmart 3 is a bit too far from the bed the A1 Mini is squeezed too much the Ender 3v3 is doing a slightly better job in terms of the first layer on this print let's also compare with other creality printers printed with the same creality hyper POA once again all of them printed without broken honeycomb while the Ender 3v3 strings a bit more than the cr10 SE and the k1c for the bottom the k1c squeezed a bit too much with the smooth print surface it's more obvious the Ender 3v3 and the cr10 SE are both using a textured print surface which is more forgiving so the bottom of these two bed Slingers looks slightly better up next I will perform a tolerance test by printing my own simple geometric [Music] model the print finishes in 2 hours and 27 minutes which is faster than the average 3-hour time for the square it can clear all the way from 0.225 mm and get stuck at 0.125 mm for the cylinder it can clear all the way from 0.225 mm and get stuck at 0.075 mm the cylinder performs much better than the square as the overshot corners of the square do affect tolerance then I will do a decorative print the robo alpaka [Music] surprisingly when using the same creality print default 0.2 mm 300 mm per second profile this model took a bit longer than the average 4.5 hours of printing time I decided to slice and print another one using Orca slicer the one sliced with Orca slicer finishes in 4 hours 25 minutes which is in line with other new Clipper machines both of them have some ringing on the surface but I think the Orca slicer one still looks a little better let's take a look from all four angles I will also do some comparison with other printers compared to the Ender 3v3 SE the surface quality and print spe speed of the end 3v3 win compared with k1c as both machines were printed with the same gcode from Orca slicer the print time is exactly the same however the k1c corxy more stable box frame does deliver better service quality when compared to the snapmaker j1s idex printer as the Marlin input shaping is not working as well as Clipper even though it has a box frame the surface quality is still not as good as the Ender 3v3 compared with the bamboo laab p1p once again a more stable core XY box frame delivered better surface quality as well as a slightly faster printing time let's try some different materials starting with TPU as the humidity is getting a little high these days in California I dried the TP last week but I will still put it inside the creality new filament dryer and set the temperature at 55 C [Music] this print took 54 minutes to finish when the T Pew is dry the surface quality is really good the Extrusion is perfect I have no complaints with this print then I will print a pen holder with [Music] [Music] PG [Music] the print finishes in 2 hours 46 minutes which is much faster than the average 3.5 hours I inspect the print profile as the generic PG volumetric speed is set to 18 mm Cub perss which equals to 2 25 mimet per second the surface looks pretty good the bottom is perfect however on the inside printing with ptg strings a little more up next I will print an ABS mesh bottom crate but this time I will print it larger as I have too many of those small [Music] crates the retraction is also doing fine this model also requires printing a tiny bit of filament and retracting immediately and moving to the next [Music] spot [Music] this large crate finishes in 4 hours 40 minutes it stuck to the bed pretty well as I applied glue to the bed but when printing abs without a stable ambient temperature the plastic shrunk and caused some imperfections here the layers are not cracking yet but it is unavoidable for an open frame printer when printing ABS the bottom of the print is good no issues at all as the maximum nozzle temperature of this printer is 300C and it came with a hardened steel nozzle I will also print nylon carbon [Music] fiber [Music] this cable holder was printed perfectly as long as the nylon filament is completely dried it is actually pretty easy to print finally I will also do a first layer test by default the auto Z offet is set a bit low a slightly lower Z offet can make the print stick better but this may not be ideal for this single layer print so I restarted the print and entered the expert mode menu to add 0.05 mm to the Z offet moving it a little away from the [Music] [Music] bed [Music] this time it printed a perfect first layer and the bottom looked even nicer with the texture besides doing these test prints we've been using this machine as our major printer for the last 10 days to print our regular models for example I printed some hinge boxes printing something at this size only takes less L than an hour these boxes are really handy for General storage additionally I'm not a big fan of the stock filament holder and the 3D printed clips that are attached to it so I designed a simple wall mount or table standand spool holder printing something this big also took only 2 hours now I can place the spool anywhere on the table or stack it up with other filament rolls to save some space I also added a longer Bowden tube to provide smoother filament feeding and it's functioning quite effectively so far okay let's talk about the pros and cons of this printer starting with the pros one the Gantry is a one piece diecast aluminum so there are no screws meaning nothing is going to loosen over time two the motion system uses 8 mm linear rods on the z-axis and 10 mm dual rods on both the X and Y AIS so when the printer is printing at high speed it's still pretty sturdy three the leveling system is the same as the one on the k1c it uses four strain gauges underneath the bed to sense the pressure from the nozzle making it one of the most accurate designs this system is much better than just using a single BL touch CR touch or an inductive sensor like on most other printers despite needing to manually move the nozzle up 0.05 mm to print the first layer test this is the closest to a perfect pla sheet that I've printed so far for the extruder is strong generally I didn't expect to be able to print PG at the maximum flow rate of 18 mm Cub per second which is equal to 225 mm/s I normally see some kind of undere Extrusion on other machines when the print speed of PG is over 150 mm/s five the machine can handle most materials at a faster than average speed I can print abs without issues and it also comes with a hardened steel nozzle so I can print nylon carbon fiber right out of the box if the filament is dry enough it's almost as easy to print as pla on this machine now for the cons one the extruder gears can grip the filament really tight and provide a strong pushing force however with the bow and guide from the filament sensor to the extruder when loading filament I have to remove the tube and push in the filament manually most of the time for filament unloading it's usually fine but one time a small piece of filament was left inside the extruder when loading new filament it got jammed inside and I had to open the extruder to remove it two the firmware isn't tweaked well enough the input shaping is not working as well as I expected the print quality is still okay but with the all linear rail motion system a sturdy Gantry and a well supported print bed I expected the surface quality to be a bit better the overshot corners of the print also didn't perform the best in the tolerance test as creality stated that they will release a new open source firmware soon I hope this will improve once it's open source we can use any slicer to send the print directly over the local network without being limited to creality print for the direct Network printing feature three the filament holder heated bed cable and hoton cable are all on one side making the right side of the machine a bit crowded the filament support stand is more likely to be used to prevent the filament from coming off the spool and cause in Tangles but the quality of this printed part is pretty low that's not that big of a deal as you can reprint it any time but I guess I would most likely use my own filament stand four this part isn't exactly a con but I would say the core XZ is an interesting design that eliminates the use of lead screws potentially avoiding layer bending and z-axis wobbling issues caused by bent misaligned worn out or poorly shaped lead screws however in my experience 99% of my printers that use lead screws don't encounter those issues I have noticed layer bending in rare situations but those are probably due to overtightened or loosen Palm Wheels instead of the lead screws while the automatic adjustment of belt tension is beneficial The increased speed of z-axis movement doesn't seem to be too helpful when printing so I didn't see how this core XE kinematic is a GameChanger compared to a regular cesan bed Slinger with linear rods or linear rails in terms of print speed and pre- quality improvements in conclusion this Ender 3v3 has solid Hardware the linear Rod motion System One Piece diecast aluminum Gantry the strong extruder and the super accurate bed leveling system make it one of the best in terms of Hardware however the firmware especially the input shaping still has room for improvement generally after a few firmware updates it should work better over time once the firmware is open sourced the community can also help it improve among the new creality bedinger lineup other than this Ender 3v3 there's also the Ender 3v3 K which I've tested but haven't had the time to post a video yet the Ender 3 V3 SE and the cr10 SE and I've posted videos for both of those machines I would say this Ender 3v3 has the most potential with its interesting corxy kinematic and it also has the most solid Hardware so if you're interested I included the link to this machine as well as the link to my website auror Tech channel.com which monitors the prices of over 150 popular 3D printers all under the description that's it for this video if you found this video helpful please give it a like and consider subscribing to our Channel thank you for watching and I will see you next time

Channel: Aurora Tech

Views: 39,182

Keywords: Ender 3 V3, Creality Ender 3 V3, Ender-3 v3, ender3v3, creality ender 3 v3, ender 3 v3 se, ender 3 v3 ke, corexz, corexz 3d printer, what is corexz

Id: ZnPyP7SVp8k

Length: 24min 42sec (1482 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 29 2024