UPGRADE your Creality Ender 3 V3 KE with Linear Rails

hey I'm Mike welcome to dat to make it in a previous set of videos we tested the ender3 version 3 Model K and for the most part it was a pretty good printer that is if you print in the middle of the bed because when we printed towards the front of the bed we had parts that looked like this so in this video we're going to design we're going to install and we're going to test our very own printer upgrade to see if we can get better results so stick around now before we get into it consider subscribing and hitting that notification Bell as well so you always know when a new video is released and so the algorithm shows favoritism to this Channel and prevents me from becoming an utter failure from the last two videos which I will link up there above we know that the linear bearings don't fit the rods properly and it's off by just a tiny amount it's even actually hard to see and hear however because of the setup with the bearing blocks mounted only in the center any movement away from that Center is made larger due to the Teeter Totter effect and most people probably don't even know they have this problem because they only print towards the center of the bed but with time and some weere it's going to get worse and I think we're going to need to have a better long-term solution to start off I want to 3D scan the base of the printer and to do that with any level of accuracy I'm going to be using hairspray and then I'm going to gently dust it with baking soda this works really well but for some reason I had a lot of strange looks in the store when I bought this hair spray I've removed everything that I can from the base as well just to try and get the best results possible powdering the object changes the surface color the texture and the Sheen and that's going to give the software an advantage and I'm using the photogrametry part of polycam with an iPhone and the iPhone has a liar scanner and that will also be able to scale the model to within about 1% accuracy we can then bring that 3D model into Fusion 360 and then we can add these mg 12C by 350 mm long rails and the carriages in as well because we are converting this printer to linear rails but we're not just adding them the way you've probably seen before if we can run the rails Beyond this bump out just a little bit we can then space the carriages out both sideways which is good but the more important feature is that we can also move them away from each other in the y direction and by doing this we get away from that Teeter tottering effect and now rather than pivoting just at the center we have these two carriages that are resisting the lifting and falling of the opposing sides and when doing this it's going to be important to make sure that we have a little bit of room for adjustment for later on to be able to attach the punched steel support plate to the linear rail carriages I've created these printed adapter plates to expand the width just enough also I've gone to the smaller carriages because these are less massive and also having four total spread apart is better than having two just in the center I noticed that the steel frame below the aluminum bed is Dome shaped and I believe it's because it was stamped so to get as much contact surface as possible and to make sure the pieces mate together properly and that the four mounting points for the aluminum bed can stay close to parallel with the frame I have also Dom those adapter plates as well and if you want to do this upgrade yourself and yours is not domed please let me know but for now I'm going to have to assume that they're all alike it's time to print some parts and I'm using pet G here just to test it out I think pet G is fine but long-term ABS ASA or polycarbonate are probably better options for stiffness at least my first set looks really good they're from Orange orang prman pet G unfortunately there is a problem I must have mixed up which side was the top and I have these bosses in the wrong place so I'm going to be doing this again but this time I'm going to be doing it from Galaxy black pet G and now they fit like they should with just a little bit of clearance and room for adjustment I need to add some heat set inserts so that we can connect the steel plate to it unfortunately I'm still waiting for the right size to arrive so I'm going to be using the longer ones for now it's time to go ahead and get everything mounted so first off we're going to remove these M3 screws here holding on the Y AIS motor these are just screwed through the base and unfortunately we cannot reuse these screws we're going to have to use 12 mm long screws because of the extra thickness they're going to be adding here so here is our new piece this is the bottom section it was printed like that and this one is printed from pet g carbon fiber it turned out okay I had a little bit of a cooling issue in here and I figured out that if I pointed this more towards the auxiliary fan rather than in this direction that I can avoid a lot of this what I've done is designed these parts to be printed vertically and this is going to allow us to print everything at the same time but it also allows us to print the least amount of Parts possible for this job they also are going to be able to hug the base really nicely to all the little Contours I really wanted to avoid printing these flat because then we would need supports and we'd end up with a rough surface so these are m3x 12 mm and we can just pull up on the pulley and we're going to Snug all four of these down not too tight for now okay the back is a little bit of a different story so I've printed the back piece from pet G it fits over really nicely it looks okay unfortunately because the original screws went through into the power supply as soon as I removed those four screws power supply has dropped down so we need to unplug the machine make sure there's no power going to this thing take the bottom panel off and then we need to push the power supply back up so that we can put these screws back through so the original screws for the back were M4 by8 mm and instead of these we need to use these ones which are M4 by 20 mm we can't use anything longer than 20 mm because we're going to be going into the power supply and if they're too long they're going to go in through and damage that power supply okay so we already have the carriages for linear rails mounted to these plate adapters and these are just snug down so they're not tight and they're not loose I have pre-oiled these okay so we can assemble those adapter plates to the steel plate and just again snug those down these are the original screws now before I forget I need to remount this belt support bracket and while we're at it this activates the switch at the back for positioning for the y- AIS oops yeah [Music] oops okay so we have m3x 8 mm and we can a couple screws into the front loose and we're going to add a couple screws into the back loose just going to make sure everything is lining up properly looks good then we can tighten down the front get tighten down the back just make sure it seems okay seems all right okay then we can add the rest of the screws so at the front on each side we have three screws on the back on the left hand side looking from the front we have four screws and on the right hand side I was only able to get in two screws because there was a bit of an interference there with the mounting holes for the power supply okay so let's get our belt mounted back on okay so you can see we still have a little bit of movement so what we can do now we tighten down these two sides so now that these are tight we can take this steel plate off because we have to get access to the last screw that connects the carriages to that adapter plate okay now we can tighten these down but before I do I'm just going to make sure that this is parallel to the frame doesn't need to be exact just fairly close self test automatic Z offset Auto leveling because I've rooted this printer already I have access to main sale and I have a really nice mesh that I can reference and it looks like this side is low by about half a millimeter or so so I have these spacers that I've 3D printed and I'll just raise this one side [Music] up and if you need to print some of your own I will include a 1 mm shim so that you can simply adjust the Zed height in the slicer to get the size that you need and now we can reso and recalibrate and then we are good to go [Music] [Music] [Music] it's a good idea to run a test print in order to make sure that the linear rails and bearings are broken in properly and then you can wipe them clean and Then REO them again and if you bought the cheap ones they might feel a little bit stiff at first but after a few prints they should move much easier let's run some tests to see if the problem we were having has gone away this print is from Sparkle red bamboo PLA and I printed this one towards the middle and it looks pretty good but next up I printed these two corner brackets and these were prints that I was always having trouble with before the middle one would print okay but the one towards the front would have this kind of undulating surface and now we can see that the one at the front looks the same as the one towards the middle I think this was a great upgrade I'm happy with how stiff the setup is and it should remain that way for a very long time I just need to make sure that I keep it clean and re oil it every so often I will leave the links down below for anything that you need if you want to do this upgrade yourself and it is better for the channel if you can download from maker world but if you don't want to I will have a printablees link down there below I would recommend getting the black rails if you can find them at a good price and the kit that I purchased has the four carriages in it so if you watch to this point we're getting to the part that had me pulling my hair out I actually used to look like this before the video all of these changes gave us a very stable bed and we still don't have perfect results so I'm making one last attempt at finding the solution I know we have a stable X we have stable Y and for the Zed travel we do have the post that do vibrate a little bit but they're actually pretty stiff so I don't think that is the source so I am leaning more towards the extruder again this design does not sit right with me I don't see the style of extruder on Fast printers and I'm also seeing better results on pla filament compared to pet G and the way the extruder grips each type of filament may be a little bit different so let's tighten the spring and apply more Force to the filament and do another test so here is the original one printed from pet G this is always the material that I've been having the most trouble with on this printer and here's the one printed from pet G the exact same material after tightening the extruder screw and does look a little bit better so I think we need a different solution for the extruder on the printer to achieve excellent results I like the beds Slinger because they're easy to work on but I don't like the beds Slinger because we're trying to run a printer at high speed that was not purpose built for it and I can't really see how it's possible to take something with this amount of mass and move it at high speed and expect to get great results I'm a little bit conflicted on this should we keep trying to make bed Slingers go fast or should we focus on purpose built high-speed printers with core XY or maybe Po Po's linear motor setup this K printer has fairly pronounced ringing on the Y AIS and if the printer doesn't actively compensate with a g sensor will the quality of this print and ringing be more pronounced as we continue to print and add more mass to the build plate before we end this video I want to leave you with something and I'm not sure about whether this is a good idea or not I'd like to hear your thoughts on this but now that we've stiffened this up so we don't have the this rocking like it was rocking before it's quite a bit more stable that steel plate doesn't seem like it's necessary so what if we were to replace that steel plate with something that's much lighter and it's also 3D printable and you could probably do it yourself would that work well myself and our team on Discord have come up with this cool design and it even has some built-in standoffs these are the mount locations for with the carriages and it's got just about everything in it and this is from polycarbonate it's pretty stiff no it's not as stiff as the steel but it's not too bad I have a feeling that this may just work I'm going to put it on here but I'm not going to do any more testing for this video I just want to get your thoughts on whether this is a good idea whether we should move forward with this or [Music] not [Music] [Music] n thank you again to each of my patrons for helping to support this Channel and if you want to help support this channel as well you can click the link in the description there below I hope you enjoyed the video and found that helpful take care everybody we will see you on the next [Music] one

Channel: NeedItMakeIt

Views: 28,154

Keywords: How to get better quality prints, how to increase print quality, better prints, better 3d prints, The fastest 3d printer, which printer is the fastest, Creality Extruder Problem, Problem with Creality K1, Does slowing my printer down help?, Should I slow my printer down?, Ender 3, New Ender 3, New Creality Printer, Best new 3d printer?, which is the best printer?, Is a bed slinger any good?, Can a bed slinger print fast?, Creality Ender 3 V3 KE, Creality Ender 3 V3 SE

Id: 9gozME8UZP0

Length: 16min 31sec (991 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 09 2024