Voron V1.8 Build Livestream - PART 1 - Frame Assembly & Component rundown

[Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] do [Music] so [Music] and my contributions from viewers like you thank you [Music] oh hello hello i hit the wrong button sorry i denied you guys the sparks i'm sorry i hit the wrong button i know you like watching the full intro so you can watch me scoof up and accidentally almost electrocute myself but i pushed the wrong button how is everyone doing today it is i have it in normal latency mode okay there's going to be a little bit more of a delay than normal between me talking to me seeing your responses because i forgot to set it up because starting fresh we have a new build i know it's been a while since we did the switch wire which is now way over here i'm running out of desk space again but it's been a while since we've done a full build on camera we've been kind of doing random stuff for the past geez it's been like three three three and a half months now has it since we did the switch wire build and now we're gonna be building a v1 okay so it's the fourth war on build on stream we've done a v2 we've done a v0 done a switch wire now we're doing the v1 so hope you're all doing great tonight it is saturday night i feel all right i've got some coffee for those that know tim hortons sucks but it's five minutes for my house because they're everywhere so how is everyone doing tonight i know i missed one already i seen one while i was getting ready who was that old scratch hundred dollars thank you man appreciate it uh coffee to start and whiskey to finish i got you covered man i got you covered so tonight's stream should be a good one so yes so i have a little intro there um i pushed the wrong button i'm still used to trying to i'm still new with this i've only been doing it for almost a year now actually it is coming up in almost a year so uh the v1 build for those unaware i am going to be building a voron 1 specifically the 0.8 model of the 4 ohm one so the v 1.8 um we're going to be doing the whole build on stream tonight's plan i'm going to go over the components i'm using and then we're going to start by assembling the frame i don't want to go into actually putting stuff on the frame until next week because i want to try and segment each stream into its own self um its own part because i know a lot of people use these streams to help with the builds so i'm going to try and break things up um let me get the music going while we're doing that so anyways we're going to be doing a 1.8 build it's going to be a 250 millimeter spec we are going to be building it mostly to spec i am going to change a few little things i'll call out what i'm changing but for the most part this will be a spec build okay i want to give a shout out to ldo motors sparta3d and fermiolabs those three companies have helped out with this upcoming build by either donating or providing components um for reasonable amounts so those three companies are helping out a lot with this build and of course everything else is you guys as well i wouldn't be able to do any of this if it wasn't for your continued support through either patreon youtube membership donations like matt lamb right now like the smash button thank you and uh just anyone watching the stream you don't if you can't support it that's fine you being here is all the support i asked for but the financials make it so that i can buy cool stuff to show off on stream otherwise it's a very boring stream if i just print a benchy every night so anyways let's build so it's a v1 for those unfamiliar with the v1 this is a v1 it's a core xy printer by boron design got your gantry it's a fixed gantry so unlike my v2s the gantry doesn't move it's a fixed gantry your bed moves in the zed you have two lead screws on each side of the bed so that with your bed probe and clipper you can do your x gantry or your x tilt to tram out your x axis and then on the y you just have a single spring to adjust it on the y-axis so it works pretty well um it uses the afterburner tool head the gantry is actually pretty much the same as the v2 gantry it's just upside down wrong camera angle there it's just upside down so that the uh xy joints don't hit the rods and then we have the electronics backpack so other than the high voltage stuff underneath all the low voltage stuff is in this nice little backpack in the back here and one thing i may do uh samuel thank you for becoming a member one thing i may do is if you see this backpack here i may continue this all the way up to the top um that will give me two advantages one it'll get these two motors out of the chamber now these are high temperature motors so they'll be fine in the chamber but the biggest thing is it shrinks down the volume of the printer that has to be heated up so by making a smaller volume there's less to heat up you can get higher temperatures i'm aiming for 70 celsius in this guy that's why it's called toasty boy i should be able to get that just off of the bed why there's no mention of the afterburner because the afterburner is just the tool head that most of the borons use it's not its own standalone thing it's included with the the v1 the v2 the legacy and the switch wire is just the tool head for it yes i will be using um i will be trying to make a gear light flex plate too and uh thank you for the five dollars uh spencer uh so let me try and catch up can you talk me into using ethernet cable for motion oh god don't use cat5 for the love of all all things holy and whatever deity you believe in do not use cat5 or any type of ethernet cable uh for wiring on anything going through a drag chain the bend radius will destroy it believe me ask any of the one any of the old-timers who've been around in the v 2.0 the 2.1 days when cat5 was spec you were replacing wiring looms every month because wires were breaking for the love of everything that you hold dear to your heart don't use cat5 in a in a a drag chain if you got an umbilical cord ah yeah okay but please don't go silicone or if you can ptfe wiring i'm gonna go ptfe in this guy okay so let's talk about what we're gonna use to build this wrong camera again hey look super lube right camera zoom out zoom in zoom out there's my desk it's a mess okay so components well printed parts i don't know why i have that in there that's spare part so i've printed all my parts in cf nylon now i know um cnc kitchen just had issues with this v0 that he built where he printed all on cf9 and cf nylon and he had major creep issues i'm hoping that it's the reason he said it was which was an old batch of subpar cf nylon this is sane smart the parts feel really stiff um i have some like scrap parts here like i cannot bend or break this by hand like this is stiff as all heck so i'm hoping these parts work out the first thing i'm going to be doing though after the printer is online is completely reprinting all the parts in cfpc and cfpc copolyester the reason for that is oh and i'm going to try printing parts in glass-filled nylon as well and the reason for that is i want other high-temperature parts to be able to swap in if any of these fail this is mostly a test rig this machine is going to be my machine for printing high temperature stuff like the cf nylons the the polycarbonate stuff that likes higher temperatures and because we want more data on these plastics so uh tell us how you feel i feel great uh belted zed so um i think there is mods to do belted zed on the v1 however with this being a higher temperature printer i'm gonna go with the lead screws i just believe they'll be a little bit more reliable but people have pushed 70c in a v2 and it's fine so did you print yes i printed them all at still the same specs so what uh five top bottom layer four walls and forty percent infill i believe where do i source it cf uh i got cf nylon is sane smart i got it on amazon uh did i go aliexpress i'll get to that i'll get to the wiring so that is the printed parts so i keep hitting the wrong button loop cam frame kit ldo sent this over it is red i know my cameras don't pick up red good but this is good red so this is the frame so it's the ldo red v 1.8 frame 250 millimeter spec focus focus there you go it's pretty and ldo gets all fancy and they actually cut them to size and tap them before anodizing so ldo frame in red and the reason we're going red is because it's faster any more ender three stuff i i may do some ender's three stuff in the future it's gonna be v1 stuff for a while um at least until it's built now um we have rods because this uses rods it's like the legacy it's got rods for the zed so these are the rods i'm using these are actually um carryovers linux installed five dollars thank you appreciate it be careful with cfpc sometimes they can blend have a lower tg uh yeah so if i run into issues this is why i'm doing it i want to i want to get more data on this stuff i know a few people have run cf nylon just fine we just want more data um if the gantry doesn't have enough space i'm fine so i know somebody's asking if i extend the wall up if i'm going to have it lose a space i'm fine with that my actual original plan was to build a 200 millimeter printer not a 250. i ended up going with 250 simply for the fact that i wanted an ldo frame and they don't make a 200 millimeter frame so i had to go with 250. um so i'm okay losing some y travel this isn't gonna be my high volume printer like my v2 26 is by workhorse um and tallboy is my i want a print big printer so this is i'm fine not having a full 250 on here if i can sacrifice it to gain other advantages so and if i need to i could probably take the wall out pretty easy that's something we'll come to when we come to keycaps have fallen off my little thing come on okay i'm gonna can't push the button without a key there we go nice the rods eight millimeter rods now these are actually funnily enough the rods from my original v1 uh gantry my xy gantry on my original v1 back when tallboy was a v1 so i had to take them to work and chop them down because these are your average stainless steel rods these are actually old ejector pins from work that we use in injection molds so these are hardened nitrided h13 at 70 something rockwell these are hard af so um these should be plenty stiff and they are like within a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a thou accurate so um these are pretty much as good as you can get when it comes to uh rods um whatever the heck these things are called for mounting the electronics got that um electronics let's talk about electronics yeah gone full circle uh reason uh you always see black black looks cool especially with like i buy bulk e-sun abs plus in bulk by the case it's prints really well black is usually the stronger plastic depending on the colors you want to print some of that the color they use like white they had i think it's titanium um it actually can weaken the plastic um because it doesn't work as well um it's filler it's adding stuff to the plastic that's not plastic so black usually tends to be the strongest plastic for the most part um plus it goes good with everything okay electronics so we got some electronics here so controller board uh thanks to sparta3d we have a big tree tech uh what is it skr pro 1.2 now we need the skr 1.2 or really any controller board that has six motors available because we need five motors for motion we got zed xy and then we need a free one because i'm going to be using a pt100 as my temperature probe so this right here is a pt100 step stick essentially so this plugs in to an open driver slot so you can take your pt100 sensor and plug it into the motor slot and then you have pt100 support on motorsports now there are some boards coming out with built-in pt100 but um this is not one of them so that's what i'm going to be using there neutral beige yeah like you can use natural abs but then it's natural abs which doesn't look good uh drivers tmc 2209s because bmc 2209s are your best choice right now for drivers for 3d printers for the most part we got our generic screen that i may or may not use i may use an alternative we shall see what else power supply i'm not using an lrs uh 200 i'm using a uhp 200. so this is a 200 watt 24 volt power supply right here nice and tiny uh there's the power supply for the raspberry pi uh for comparison which funnily enough i'm just realizing i still need to order the raspberry pi so i gotta do that uh we got our omron solid state relay got the little mount it goes to and a buck converter i don't know why i have the buck converter out i'm using a separate power supply but i have a buck converter just in case so yeah that's the electronics motors sorry i fixed it i fixed it i fixed it i got the long delay button i need to put a pop-up on the screen and i forgot before stream for those that have ever streamed on youtube you have to select the latency i forgot to switch it to normal so it's on low or high so it's like a 20 second delay between i say something and then you guys see it and then i see it back it's bad there okay so anyways um what was i saying oh yeah 0.9 motors you don't really need 0.9 motors we've done testing um swapping between 1.8 and 0.9 it's almost impossible to really tell a difference on most prints if you really zoom in you can maybe tell ripple depending on your setup but for your average joe you're not going to notice a huge difference um i'm going with 0.9 because that's what the kit comes with uh it's here so we got um gates belts this is the triangle labs gates belt the high temperature stuff uh a bunch of what else is in here yeah thermistors which we're not using thermistors and then 50 watt 24 volt heaters that uh drag a labs bmg kit because originally this was gonna actually i was gonna put a galileo in there i ordered that because it was on the bomb and i just went through and ordered everything on the bomb uh lm8 you use i think links can see heavy stuff so for wiring i have this guy okay so this is a pre-made wiring loom from fermio labs and this has all your connectors already on and it's the hexo floral whatever fancy super good uh wiring so i was gonna use this okay i was gonna use this but but bisect wants to send me a spider so if i get a spider i need to put it in a v2 now v2 26 here has silicone wires in fact i'm running the same silicone wiring loom from late 2.1 days in it um and i really don't know how much longer it'll keep working i i don't know it's still working but i don't know how much longer so i was planning on using this in the 1.8 because it's the same it's just i don't need all of it okay i'll just loop up the extra but now that i'm going to have to rewire b226 to put a spider in it i think i'm going to save this for v226 and go ahead and make my own wiring loom uh with blackjack and hookers and this ptfe wiring that i got so i might be making my own wiring loom it looks like what do you mean muted i'm not muted i see the things moving so yeah so i might save this it looks like i might save this for another project but anyways if you are going new you can buy these pre-made looms fermio labs has them um they only really have them for v2s um they don't have a separate one now you can use a v2 one on a v1 just be aware you're gonna have extra wire so you're gonna have to like loop it crimping stream time i might make the loom off stream we'll see well depend will depend how uh how much i'm hurting for content that week okay uh what else do we have in the magical box uh i guess chain so i'm going with the igis chain not the china chain uh for my bearings the f623rs or six nine five rs's uh reindeer off aliexpress and then all the screws and nuts and bolts and everything this is all ldo ldo sent this over so i got my t-nuts i got my screws i got my heat set inserts and they are the right heat set inserts awesome guys so that's all ldo uh what else oh yeah um so for the extruder originally i was gonna put a galileo in it um but looking back at it i think i'm gonna put the galileo in the tall boy take the lgx that i currently have in the tall boy instead of sending it back to them gria i actually just went and bought it off of him because i was too lazy to ship it back and i kind of like it too much so i'm gonna hang on to it put it into v226 and then in this guy i got another lgx so i'm going to put that lgx inside the v1 so oh jason yeah so we are gonna be putting an lgx in toasty boy so we'll see how well this handles high temperature environments because uh it'll be pushing pretty hot in there uh for the hot end itself we are gonna be using a mosquito because i have two of these i currently have one of these in v226 and uh this one has been sitting around unused for a while so i have it i might as well use it it's a good hot end so i'm going to put it it's a first gen mosquito so this is going to go in until i find something better uh what else uh random fans random fans i don't have my rails yet hey eddie heater pad kenobo nothing fancy this is their spec generic you know was it 110 volt 500 watt heater we got the kenobo pad burmea labs bed eight millimeter thick so i think that's like 5 16. uh it's already pre-drilled and everything i am going to be putting the bed together this week um i'm waiting on the rtv to come in because i was gonna actually do it today or yeah i was gonna put the bed together today um but my rtv gasket silicone is uh it's it's solid i didn't put the cap on i guess so um i'm waiting for that to come in i will be making the video or the bed by itself and putting it all together and i'll make a video on putting the bed together i'm going to do something different i'm going to actually drill a hole in the side and mount a thermistor in the metal itself so i can get a temperature reading of the bed itself i think i missed a doughnut there oh there's popping up let's just solve five dollars thank you i appreciate it any specific reason you keep the extruder inside of the chamber instead of using bowden system to locate it out of the heat i like direct feed too much if it turns out to be an issue i could easily swap it to a bowden system that's the joy of the afterburner tool head it allows both so i'm gonna go direct feed and then if it becomes an issue with temperature i will swap it i know people who have run this kind of setup with super insulating it and they had no issues with direct feed so i hoping i'm okay uh where can you get the afterburner okay so the beta afterburner mount is in the voron users mods section of the discord it's not on the github yet because it's not quite done um for example to use the drag chain mount you have to use the drag chain mount that's for the uh incorrect spec ldo mount or motor mount that's in the ldo section of the discord pin uh so it's not quite the whole system isn't done yet design wise um yeah so what i'll be doing for the bed um for the heater i'll be using the 468mp to attach it to the plate itself and then i'm going to rtv the outside i'm not going to rtv the whole thing down i don't think any of the plastics i'll be printing will be pushing the temperatures high enough that that'll fail and if i am pushing close i'm hoping this or the rtv will help if it does fail i'll just peel it off and put a proper one on and then for the bed we have now this is a high temperature magnet so this is a hot rated high temperature magnet we got the plate spring steel flex plate from firmio labs even has the fancy boron logo it's got nothing on it so i'm going to have to clean it and attach the pei to it and for the pei i have muller black pei i actually have three sheets of it so one sheet's gonna go on here uh one sheet is actually gonna go into v226 because see this giant bubble a year and a half and i finally killed the energetic flex plate on this actually the plate's still fine the magnet is still fine it's just the pei sheet has gone and given up the ghost and i've got a massive bubble in it so the cf nylon finally hit it in after a year and a half so a year and a half of use printing abs and other plastics out of a budget uh flex plate system ain't bad then what else i think that's it oh yeah uh the fermio labs acm panels for the enclosure and then sparta 3d is sending the abs panels for the like the bottom compartment and the electronics compartment but the actual outer panels are permeable labs acm i got the firmware lab sticker there i'm going to have to get a sparta sticker and a ldl motor sticker to put on there so uh what is the difference between galileo and orbiter galileo is basically an orbiter repackaged to fit on the afterburner tool head so the guts are the same it's just the housing is different ripped your pi sheet oh that sucks that's that uh is toasty barry gonna help with abs yes so okay with abs yes you can print abs in an enclosure around 3540c um but with abs the hotter the ambient temperature when you're printing it the stronger the print will be especially layer lines a lot of times you see weak abs prints is they're not getting enough heat in the enclosure or the print's cooling too quick you want to print it hot and let it be hot until the whole thing's printed and then let it set as one back to room temperature essentially so so yeah so that's an overview um if anyone has any questions about component sourcing um the next part is we're gonna go on and actually build the frame uh i don't know something connected to my computer and i don't know what it made the beeping noise what did the beeping noise mean oh well uh any chamber fan so das boot that's gonna be one thing we'll look into after it's built so the first thing is we're gonna get it built get some bench uh baseline stuff benched on it and then i'll go into things we can do to improve performance still waiting on the energetic plate from ali oh yeah sometimes ali takes a bit ptfe link what do you mean ptfe link get rid of this oh source for the wire i got him off aliexpress i don't have it on hand it's saved on my computer upstairs uh ray mayhem raymond may have the link for it i haven't used it yet i just have it in the thing it feels okay though okay so building a frame i'm gonna need some screws too probably so let me get these thanks for making it easier to time stamps in the comments so for the previous builds what i try to do is i try to center each stream among about a specific thing and if i finish that i pretty much finish the build on the stream and then i'll i'll fill up the rest of the time i'm gonna try to keep the streams around two and a half three hours um depends how tasty the whiskey is by the end so the reason for that is a lot of people follow along with these streams to help build the printer so i want to make it easier because if the stream is titled frame assembly and the last tower of the frame is me putting on um you know mounting stuff to the frame and then somebody tries to follow along and like okay i already built the frame how do i mount this and they go to the next part and it's already on it i'm just trying to make it easier for people because that's why i started doing the videos with just to help people with their builds so would i get the frankit ldo so let's look at the manual because there is a manual oh hey look manual we build space shells with gardening tools so anyone can have their own spatial their own oh ah so let me zoom in here okay before you begin your journey a word of caution in the comfort of your home own home you're about to assemble a robot this machine can maim burn and electrocute you if you are not careful please do not become the first voron fatality there is no special reddit flare for that please read the entire manual before you start assembling as you begin wrenching please check our discord channels for any tips and questions that may halt your progress most of all good luck the team that's me i'm on the team justin twenty dollars thank you appreciate it um you know we're yeah word of advice mister miss convince mrs speed i need to order parts to convert my elf to a 1.8 before i even get my 2.4 parts in um it's easier to ask for forgiveness than permission so just say you're building one big printer and order everything that wants to be like you know what i decided to break it down into multiple printers uh brent thompson five dollars thank you appreciate it i'm about to start printing afterburner parts because i can't decide on 1.8 or 2.4 insert insight on the pros and cons okay so the difference between the 1.8 and the two okay so the v1 and the v2 basically the v2 is fixed bed moving gantry v1 is fixed gantry moving bed the v1 is a bit simpler of a build um the gantry is the same but the the zed is simpler on the v1 um and it is a little bit cheaper you can get a cheaper controller board you can get um less stepper motors it's a cheaper build not by not by a lot only like a couple hundred but it is cheaper um basically they're both good one just has more quality of life features i really like the gantry trimming on the v2s i never have to worry about leveling a bed ever on those printers i i can take my gantry um and like move everything and and make it all screwed up and then i push a button it itself levels um that's great you can't do that on a v2 or on a v1 um at least not yet so yeah but it's still it's still fine it just doesn't have all kinds of extra bells and whistles essentially um i'm doing the v1 because i haven't built a v1 um or i don't have a v1 currently and for the goal of a higher temperature enclosed printer i think the v1 may suit that a little bit better because of its um electronics box smaller enclosed area stiffer uh heartier z motion with the lead screws etc um omar uh 30 thank you appreciate it uh in your opinion what is the most stressed part on the 350 2.4 uh xy joint most likely um or the idlers the front idlers i believe anywhere where the belts are really pushing onto a lot of johnny five dollars thank you appreciate it some of the best advice i've heard oh thank you okay back to building but yes okay also with the manual i want to say this because i know a lot of people are building vorons now okay uh cnc kitchen did his video on the v0 uh there's a lot of kits out there right now so please bear in mind you do not buy a voron okay you build a voron voron is all the voron printers are designed by the voron design team we're a design team we're not a printer company so we've designed printers that we want to build for ourselves and we share the designs with others okay so you're not going to find prusa manuals with these okay there's we try to make them as detailed as possible as we can because again this is all free donated time and everything but this isn't for profit we're not a giant multinational company that sells 200 000 units a year so the manuals are kind of just they should be enough to get you going but if you're going into this and you've never wired anything before you've never soldered before you don't know what nc or no means on a limit switch you've never flow calibrated a printer um i'd recommend either watching a lot of youtube videos or buying something like an ender 3v2 um and playing around with that for a bit these aren't really designed or at least when all these manuals were made and the printers were designed they weren't really meant to be newbie printers they were enthusiast printers so we're having a lot of questions on the discord and there's no problem with asking questions and if you want to build a voron as your first printer by all means go ahead just be aware um a year ago when a lot of these manuals were written they were written from a point of view of hey you kind of know what you're doing already most of us know what we're doing so these are kind of just you know how to build it because a lot of us built these printers with just a cad file if we were lucky at the time so now a lot of people are coming into this completely fresh especially with all the kits and with the kits we have no control over them okay so be aware with these kits we're seeing components swapped out from stuff we didn't spec um i'm seeing 80 tooth gears like the 80 tooth gears in the v2s they're throwing gears in there that don't fit in the printed parts they're too big they're they're not the spec gears they're just some random 80 gears they found 80 tooth gears i'm seeing random motors and kits that have no specs with them at all we can't find anything about them and the serial number on them shows a 2011 manufacturing date uh i've seen uh heater pads on some of these kits where the wires attached to the heater pads fall off these are mains um so if you do buy a kit just be aware you there's no guarantee it'll work um i i don't want to scare anyone who's bought in a kit a lot of people have used kits to build their printers but just be aware you're probably gonna have to swap some stuff out and there's really no guarantee that it'll be 100 perfect um that's why the team does not officially endorse any kits now yes ldo makes frame kits and screw kits and stuff like that those i have on hand those i can say are you know i haven't used all these screws yet but they're probably pretty good okay but electronics kits are where we're seeing a lot of funky stuff um the wrong heat set inserts are really common they said a lot of kits have the wrong heat set inserts so yes by all means if you want to build a boron have adder have fun these are fun printers to build but just be aware you may have to watch some videos before you dive into it or ask a lot of questions on the discord if you don't know what you're doing if you've built printers before you should be okay but yeah let's get building there's my little spiel oh i do plan on trying to put together a so you want to build a voron video where i go through all the different models and like a bunch of stuff like what i just said about like warnings and cautions and whatnot about building a voron it's i'm actually writing that it'll probably be the first video that i actually script but uh that'll come out hopefully eventually okay um so here's the manual so you know it's got oh god how many 158 pages um breakdown of each stuff uh printing if you want if you're printing your own voron parts why do i have that camera on i don't need the c920 goodbye c920 put me over there put that over there turn chat on turn alerts on there we go okay so uh printing parts if you're printing your own voron parts we recommend abs pla and ptg we have just seen too many part failures over the years to recommend using those now if you're not enclosing your printer you may be okay with petg some blends work fine others have creep issues the problem is we can't narrow it down to which ones are good and worldwide sourcing etc so we just flat out don't recommend using pla or petg abs works we know it works pretty much all abs work we haven't encountered anything that's super horrible and it works for most people most people can print it as long as you put a cardboard box on your printer there are other plastics like the nylons and the polycarbonates we're doing more testing on those i'm this guy's going to be cf nylon for example polycarbonates a lot of them have issues when exposed to grease and oils where they actually break down and uh crack and it gets in between the layer lines it causes delamination and whatnot so abs is just the we know it works it works for pretty much everyone that's why we recommend it it's got the highest chance of success okay if you want to print your own parts because the piff cue is absolutely insane right now um this is how we recommend you print the parts you know 0.4 millimeter nozzle 0.2 layer height five walls or four five top bottom layers four walls forty percent in film if you can't print them yourself either your printer doesn't have a heated bed for example or you just don't have a 3d printer there is printed ford um you can find that on the board on discord there somebody with a voron will print you parts for a very reasonable price unfortunately because everyone wants to build a war on right now the queue is quite long so go to the war on discord sign up if you're not and the github for a lot of other stuff hardware if you've never seen what any of these are before um because some people don't know what a hammerhead nut or post-install t-nut is or heat-set insert here are some pictures of what they kind of look like to help you get started a frame that's what we're going to be building today okay let me catch up on chat i know i talked for a little bit there uh scripted videos that's a success for you oh man i like i'll sit here for three hours and just talk into the camera and then spend two hours editing that into a 10 minute video that's just kind of how i roll goodbye lubecam sorry uh the blue rolls blv so blue rolls i'm seeing a lot of a lot of people aren't happy with their blue rolls kits put it that way um okay so we're gonna build the frame now if you are building the frame okay uh well when you go to build the frame if you have something flat build it on that okay now if you have granite countertops those are usually pretty flat uh if you have an induction uh oven like you know your stove top is glass um clean it off really good that's usually pretty flat i've used that in the past it works just fine if you don't have something super flat um you probably don't need to go out and buy a granite surface plate okay you can square up a frame with a tape measure it it's not super hard i'm going to be building it on my desk right here this is a sheet of three quarter inch plywood it probably costs more than my house right now with the way lumber prices are and i literally have 24-inch uh linoleum tile uh cheapos that i bought at like a surplus store stuck to the top as my desktop so this is not flat but i'm going to show you how you can build a frame on a not super flat surface and still have it square yeah the 1.8 okay so again also uh the different models a v2 doesn't replace a v1 they're different lines of printers and it's not version okay it's war on zero war on one voron two foreign switch wire boron legacy that's why we started using names instead of numbers because it got really confusing um so it's different here it's like bmw right you got the three series the fourth series whatever series they have now um i don't have one so think of it kind of like that all the extrusions so frame frame so for the frames um if you buy them from misumi if you use the numbers and the like the the number code in the bom generator this is they'll come with the holes already drilled and tapped okay so if you go to misumi.com let's see here hey it's actually online okay so configurator we are building a v1 direct feed new build line joints i like blind joints okay personally i like the cubes for appearance but the blind joints are the simplest method and the cheapest so show so where's the frame okay so when you're buying your frame if you want to go through misumi what you literally do is you just copy the this whole string of random numbers and letters you paste that into there and boom there's your hfs b5 2020 370 h45 bh325 which is that but it's misumi so it only comes in black anodized or yellow a lot of people building yellow frames okay so we're gonna need these extrusions these four and what's that one two three four five six seven eight and fidget fx five euro take my money thank you take my education and advice take it take it now so it looks like i got one extra gear okay [Music] uh so back separate the extrusions navy chief thank you for coming to member so we are going to be putting some m5 16 button heads where are my m516 buttonheads in 510 and 516 oh yeah why is there one dislike you got to balance it out nobody can be perfect nobody's nervous okay so for the frame it's blind joints for anyone nobody or for people who have never put a blind joint together it's really super simple actually so what you do is you put a button head screw into the end of an extrusion and then you slide it into the slot on another extrusion and then there should be a clearance hole that you put your allen key through and you tighten it and that makes your joint that is a blind joint now blind joints have pros and cons pros they're super simple because you don't need anything other than your extrusions themselves and screws and it's super simple if you go with like the misumi corner cubes they look really nice but they're five dollars each so you're gonna need eight of those there's forty dollars to your frame just for adding cubes so it's a personal preference type thing you can spend 40 on things that will get you more performance out of your printer for example now the downside with um blind joints you need square cuts okay i didn't bring it it's in my garage i'm probably gonna go grab it in a little bit but um if the cuts on your extrusions aren't square and you go to bolt stuff together it you're gonna have fun squaring everything up so usually if you get your extrusions pre-cut they're usually pretty good misumi is pretty good um is pretty good what's the point of cereals uh just for fun basically when uh mr russian cat food starting off started off war on he made a bunch of kits i think 10 or 20 of them uh sold them to people and then never built a kid again because it's fruit it's a it's not worth it but anyways um those that built the kits as they finished them kind of said hey i got serial number one serial number two and then people who built their own vorons from scratch and self-sourcing also applied for cereals and it just kind of bloomed from there and it's kind of a neat way to keep track of all the borons in existence for example we're coming up on 2000 serialized borons we're over a thousand v2s i think v0s have already beaten v1s in terms of numbers out there thread compound no you do not need to put loctite on these frames okay you do not need to lock type the frames okay as long as you tighten them properly you don't need to oh yeah the china borons are not serialized because unfortunately you have to go on reddit to get a serial number and reddit is behind the great wall or great firewall i'm not doing the magic twirl kind of awkward in this position there it's actually taking me longer to do them that way do overhead cam for those those watching at home there what size screws m516 all the screw sizes are called out in the manual a little bit of a little bit of a burr i have to run a tap through this um now while these are pre-machined be aware most of these are made on a machine so usually it's just like a jig that just taps them all so you may need to clean up some threads sometime okay i have music playing it might just not be loud enough here let me turn the music up my there we go turn the music up um so yeah so what i would recommend is among the other tools that you're buying get yourself a set of metric taps specifically m3 and m5 so that way if you do need to clean the threads up on something like i get what i got to do right now you can just run a tap in it and you're done instead of you know screwing up the threads or screwing up a screw because if you get a screw seized in one of these you have fun getting it out these are 20 20 extrusions they're not 20 30. how hard is it to cup it cut and tap your own extrusions uh depends on what hardware you have if you have the ability to cut an aluminum um extrusion square that's not too bad um as long as they're all consistent okay so for example if they need to be you need four pieces that are 400 millimeters long as long as you can cut all four of those to the same length as each other if you're out by a millimeter won't matter but as long as they're all the same so if they're all 401 you're fine if they're all 401 400 439 you're gonna have issues okay and the square the better now when it comes to tapping it's aluminum aluminum taps really easy by hand or you can even uh if you get a good uh tap you can just chuck it in a drill and just drill tap it but it's going to take a while and it is annoying i've done it i've tapped the whole frame on my v1 it's annoying it is annoying if the music's too loud just let me know i can't hear the stream is a tad too loud okay okay next part tapping the v0 frame uh i i did that one too where's the 2020 from uh these are miss uh ldo okay so we have our m5 16 button heads on the ends so build on a flat surface build your frame on glass or granite surface basically the flattest thing you can build it on okay and you're gonna build it upside down okay so if you look at your extrusions okay you should have on the four longest ones you should have tapped holes or drilled clearance holes one and then two on the other end so you're gonna want this end down because we're building the frame upside down so what i'm going to do is kind of put it all together and then square it up i wish i had more room already actually i'm going to use the trick i didn't want to do this but i want to risk scratching it but corner joints cast aluminum tooling plate that's pretty flat i'm going to use the bottom though that way if i scratch it well actually it wouldn't matter because both sides are going to have stuff on it [Music] uh what's their 10 and 25 amp one's a 10 amp one's a 25 amp with your uh your mains bed even at 110 volts at 500 watts i think you're not even pushing 5 amps so using your tool plate as a flat plate is a bit barbaric you would be surprised the uh the ingenious solutions that go on when you build multi-million dollar injection molds well okay not multi-million million there's a lot of shortcuts out there plus this is the flattest thing in the room right now now when i go to build my cnc though um i do have plans i'm going to try and actually go i can't right now because everything's locked down hey ontario um i'm actually going to try and go to a granite countertop maker and see if they have like spare um parts or like scrap or leftover uh bits that i could use to kind of fab up a ghetto um surface plate in my garage get like a two by two foot or two foot by two foot spare piece or something it'll be flatter than uh a piece of wood that i'm using right now find things besides your abs oh yeah the dad bod why do you think i wear the apron it's it's to uh hide the dad bod yeah blind joints are one of those things i didn't know existed until i seen him in action i'm like why do more people use this like you see at the um uh like the ender frames for example they use screws going like right through um where you basically drill through and then counterbore it's a pain in the butt this is like relatively simple it just you just it's just a clearance hole all you need is a clearance hole so it doesn't even have to be a super accurate on location thing uh 1.8 versus switch one's a core xy and one's a corex zed these are completely different machines for the most part other than tool heads the same um yeah switch wire is a bed flinger so on a switch wire you you got a moving bed in your y and your gantry is core xz up and down this is core x y and your bed moves in the z okay so we're at this point mind access hole position we do our best to call out things that may bite you later in the assembly process but may skip things that seem obvious to us if in doubt please refer to the cad model it may save you some considerable downtime this is why you read ahead this is why you read the whole manual and then build it okay so the extrusions that will hold the y rails are spaced 90 millimeters from the top of the extrusions make sure they sit flush with the vertical extrusions and aren't twisted rotated a small machine is square will help with the task you guys enjoy looking at this while i go get my machinist square because i forgot it in the garage so i will be back in a minute family i am back so my small machinist square is actually not that small this might not work we shall see should have left it on loop cam view i haven't used this thing in forever so this is a machinist square um they're super handy super handy for checking things that are square for example right now my frame is square yay at least in the one corner actually that is actually not bad that ain't perfect but dang closer than i thought it would be so now we got to put in these guys so when it comes to putting in these like ones like this um try and not scratch the heck out of your freshly anodized frame um so be gentle take your time the last thing you want to do is put a massive gouge in your brand new shiny frame i got to spin that one around because i didn't put the holes in the right spot dang it dang it i screwed up see that's why you read ahead these two holes i thought there were four holes there's only two holes i done goofed i done goofed oh well easy fix easy fix guys easy fix ready one two oh fixed put that back on here use my square to make sure they're square hold everything together nice and tight there we go and then i gotta rotate that one too no biggie as i said nobody's perfect it's easy to fix it now before we get all the way into the build david's here david's here everyone say hi to david so that goes in right there don't scratch the frame don't scratch the frame don't scratch the frame there we go okay let's take that up a little bit so it's got to be spaced millimeters so set my bernier to 90. and put her in there and i'm probably going to drop my burner close it yeah i can live with that do i have longer calipers yeah i have um at work i have more so uh this is a six inch burner i actually if you're gonna buy one vernier get an eight inch okay it's much more handy than the six inch um so if you're gonna buy one get an eight inch okay um at work i have um an 8-inch and a 12-inch and they're mitutoyos this is a generic nico from amazon that's another trick if you have something like a nice square like this or something really flat um use that to make sure your extrusions are flush to each other so what you can do is snug up the screw once it's in position on like the 90 millimeter and then like reef on it tight but just snug it up and then use your square to align it flush and then go in there and tighten it down now i'm not reefing the screws yet i'm finger tightening them with the short end um because i got to go through and square everything up afterwards so we're we might be bumping some stuff later um you don't want them like reef down super tight yet so a 12-inch inside mic we have those at work um i don't have them at home but my shop has them at work okay so now our thing looks like that and now we need to put the legs so the bottom extrusions are spaced 320 millimeters from the y extrusion use the linear rods of the z drive as a guide make sure that you're able to slide them in from the side make sure that the extrusions sit on a 90 degree angle and are free of any rotation or twist the outside of the extrusion should be flush the position of the front back extrusion is not critical so if you look here this extrusion right here and this one right here is critical because your rods go between them this one here and this one here they can be wherever it don't matter because it there's nothing sitting on them they are just there to keep the legs from going so the problem is my rods are not there's some variants of these because uh i did these on a chop saw so i gotta find the longest one i have and use that and by the way i did check these on a height gauge i use the chop saw to size these and i got them within 0.2 millimeters which on a chop saw that's pretty good this is my tallest one i'm gonna put you there and use you as my guide and actually if you want a tip um i'm going to put some blue tape on both ends of this so that way i have a little bit of wiggle room because these will oversize it a bit what do they keep the legs from doing they keep the lights going bleh because so it doesn't you know should be able to fit in there yep we're good that one slides in there just good they're just good good that is a technical term it is le is a technical term just like thingamajig or what's imma call it so a doohickey a mcguffin a dongle a what's it technically correct the best kind of correct like oh was it futurama i can't remember what show was where the bad guy is like i have approximate knowledge of many things and then he calls like the guy by a slightly different name or no that was um no that was adventure but time i'm like that i i know a bunch of random stuff but just enough of a bunch of random stuff so what i'm going to use here is my first one that i screwed in that i know it's the location is right like for z spacing i'm going to use that as the reference to line up the the one that doesn't matter i'm gonna put my bed away before i scratch it you know i'm gonna be scuffing it all up anyways to put the stuff on it and then there's gonna be stuff on it so you won't see any of it anyways the turbo encapsulator rockwell automation which is a real company by but we use their uh limit switches at work that one's yeah there we go okay so oh she'd be rocking let's square it up hey it's a frame it is not square at all let's fix that the first thing is make sure everything's flat which we got stuff that's not flush dang it stay now if your frame is rocking by the way um don't panic because you're you're depending on where you're building it you might not be on a flat surface so if you put your frame together and all of a sudden it's rocking all over the place just be aware it might not be on a flat surface so what i'm doing right now is just going through and making sure all my bits are nice and flush to each other prevent them from turning once the screws retain oh i i know that pain um now you have to remember not all the extrusions matter and when it comes to them twisting once you put parts on this it'll prevent that from twisting this one isn't too bad on like the v2 the upper idlers now they're they've been corrected so they don't have that issue but like the original like two point ones um the whole top extrusions would like to do that if you didn't have like the uh the frame or the enclosure on let's flush blush blush blush see how square it is out a little bit okay so i need to shift this in okay let's see what we got to work here it's open a little there too bad so this side's out so those got a shift where can i shift that yeah that's there going through and just seeing what's not right that guy right there you are not flush uh now another trick you can do if you don't have a square is tape measure so what you do is you measure corner to corner now i went and got fancy and brought my 24 inch scale home from work so i can do this let me see if i can do this on camera zoom out see all my messy desk i can't get the whole thing the 1.8 have bed leveling yes it only has it along the x-axis though so what you do is you measure corner to corner and they should be the same so now you're gonna hate this because this is uh inches but we're looking at what is this 22 inches 800 thousand it's super annoying uh 8.50 so we're out we are out they look like on tape measures 22 and a three quarters actually that's not bad that's not bad that is not bad [Music] i can live with that that's actually not bad that is within like margin of error there so why do we have the rocking use the metric side it doesn't have a metric side it's got focus focus it's got inches and then it's got inches but inches with foul because that's what we use in machining here in north america is inches and thousands so that's what 25 hair under a half five here under half that side square actually i might luck out here this thing might be square because what you do is you basically just keep flipping it and you measure corner to corner if your corner to corner is the same um you're good in terms of squareness if it's not the same you're gonna have to start adjusting stuff now obviously you're not getting 0.1 millimeter accuracy doing what i'm doing okay but if you're if you can get your frame within about a millimeter you're golden because you can kind of move stuff around inside the frame when you're putting stuff on they kind of fudge it in so yeah use both i i'm a manual machinist like i i'm a wrench monkey so all our bridge ports all our manual lays they're all in inches when the engineers give us a print in millimeters the first thing i do is convert it to inches except for when i'm using the bridge ports with the dros because then i just push a button two and three quarter it's square it's square enough for my liking so yeah it's just my table's not flat so i was a little worried because it's you know it's doing that but it's actually it's square so it's rectangular as uh vert says so the trick with inches ignore fractions okay if you if you're going to work in inches fractions don't exist it's inch and thousands and that's a thousandth of an inch right so if i'm working on inches it's i'm measuring something it's one inch 486 thou okay it's not 5 16. i can't do fractions for the life of me so if you got to work in inches which if you a lot of manual machines are still in inches um bowels are your friend hey it needs feedsies i have pizzis put some feces on it these are just m m5 16s 7 32nd oh god it took me a while to get used to it first because like in school and everything up here in canada land it's metric but you go to you go to home hardware everything's in foot right you know you buy a four by eight sheet of drywall i i am five foot eleven like i i don't know how tall i am in centimeters but our cars are in kilometers per hour it's a complete mix match of everything and the problem is with the proximity to the us that i'm in um we're not getting rid of inches anytime soon because whenever we build a tool for an american company it's in inches just this guy [Music] uh [Music] [Music] hello hello sorry about that low battery no okay sorry i goofed the batteries in the lab that i was wearing died but the receiver didn't and i meant to switch them out and they were actually sitting right next to it i just forgot to so um sorry i just look over and i see it peeking and i'm like uh oh so sorry i'll have to go back and watch the stream to see what that sounded like wow this oh yeah my bench is wow my bench right here is really bad i'm like how is it this unswears like nope it's just the bench sorry guys i'm sorry this lab mic other than the batteries is working out really well but uh in the future live mic that's rechargeable so i don't have to worry about batteries come on we got to have some sort of technical difficulty in every stream kind of pretty epic okay i'll make sure i go back and listen to it commodore 64 on acid okay hey look we got a frame um there you go dancing for the music ah this thing uses triple a's so i have a costco pack of batteries somewhere so i i know where it is so i've been like using the same costco batteries for ages okay frames together so now i don't want to go too much further in the build because yeah so just for size comparison putting it next to the v2 it's uh actually slightly taller than the v2 but uh the x and y is exactly the same three obsession five dollars for more batteries thank you appreciate it i i do have um a costco pack of batteries they're just upstairs okay so frame's built um i don't want to go because the next part is putting together all of this stuff and mounting it and yada yada yada um i don't want to go into that until next week um simply for the fact that i don't i i don't want to i want to space things out um so each video is its own thing so what we're going to do is the thing that i hate doing on all the other streams we're gonna put in all the heat set inserts right now and get it out of the way so what we're gonna do is so that in the next streams i don't have to bore you with constantly putting in heat set inserts we're gonna go through i'm gonna make sure all the parts are nice and cleaned up and i'm gonna put the heat set inserts in this is also gonna be open floor like i know it's what 9 40 right now um so i'm going to screen till 11 like i normally do um but this is going to be like an open question because if anyone has any questions about the build um or any voron questions go ahead and ask them i'm going to try and put all the heat set inserts in um so that we don't have to do them on future streams uh what orange is that that's kodak or which orange this orange that's esun pla plus origin i don't like it but um on the switch wire that is kodak orange which is a nice orange actually so doggo let me go see if i can find doggo soda coda come here buddy come here hey hey yeah there we go come here come here get over here hey what's this what's this oh you just want to go upstairs and hang out with mama don't you be all mopey upstairs okay you want the pets this what scratches all the fur okay you're gonna get fur all over my new build all right get out of here getting brushed tomorrow okay there you go there you go doggo somebody 699 doggo yes doggo thank you appreciate it okay uh what's the best way to label all the wires um there's a few different ways i just kind of write with a pen marker on the connector because they're white so get like a black pen marker you can also get label makers like the little heat shrink tubing that you can use on it um so yeah yes and make sure you like the smash button and all that jazz uh what do you think of blue voron frame and prusa orange for the printed parts well i got blue orange blue uh ldo frame and kodak orange right here and i like it it's like uh the the gt40 kind of vibe are these parts pre-kit um this is not a kit some of these components are kitted so for example this is a ldo motor and frame kit but this is not a full like kit um personally i am against all-in-one kits because i've yet to see any that actually have consistent good quality the closest one i've personally seen are the i think they're the magic studio kits and they're okay because he takes the guy who does those actually takes criticisms and suggestions where some of the other kit manufacturers you don't know what you're getting in the kit because they like to swap stuff out because color cheap heating up the iron uh will i still be streaming next week oh maybe chief 49. thank you appreciate it yes i'm still going to be doing my 8 p.m stream uh the the voron stream will be earlier in the day if i remember correctly don't ask me what's going on because i'm not um running that advice on which one to build a v1 or v2 um depends on your budget and if you want the bells and whistles that a v2 has place the v0 in the frame uh sure so for the references already running out of desk space yeah so this is the v1 frame okay l toasty boy and here's my v zero i'd put a banana in there too but i don't have a banana and my v0 by the way is relegated to storage now i am running out of desk space so it lives down here with the uh with the bonsai on the floor well bottom shelf so what i got to go through i got to clean up some of these parts and put heat set inserts in a bunch how's the forum bot kit um hit and miss i'm seeing they're starting to swap out some parts um to i don't know where these parts even came from quality so i am extremely hesitant to recommend any kits i actually somebody local is getting a formbot kit and they're going to lend it to me so on an upcoming stream whenever it shows up i will go through the vornbot kit on stream and critique it and offer my opinion on it but uh from what i've seen there might not be some good stuff to say we shall see yeah you can print a v you can print all borons on all vorons by the way i'm just going through making sure i don't need any heat sets and where i need the heat sets because i've never actually looked at the v1 manual so these need heatsets actually i need to find my three millimeter drill i gotta run and drill through some of these to clean them up as well where my burner go that's okay kenneth whenever it shows up no rush oh where where is my three millimeter drill oh where oh where can you be three millimeter drill well 3.1 millimeter i'm sure i'll be fine that is not a three millimeter drill i can't wait for the roasting oh yeah i'm going to uh i am going to offer a lot of opinions about it because uh i've seen a lot of people get burned by it well not burned but if you're saving 200 on a kit but then spending 300 to replace the parts you're not really saving money on a kit put it that way okay the ldo heat sets are good yeah if you if anyone buys kits honestly take pictures of them put them on the discord and let others know if you run into issues it's actually too hot i gotta turn this down um oh it's broken great um sure a little knob on this broke off mic noise deep press stand honestly i i haven't had any uh i haven't had any issues with the um doing it by hand as long as you take your time to make sure everything's lined up properly it's not hard to put the heat sets in oh resin okay yeah resin no please don't print parts of resin i've yet to see a full printer built in resin parts last um will toasty boy our offer marshmallow opening um yes and no i'm working on the easy bake oven attachment um for it so i want to be able to cook muffins in it um and brownies i i'm hoping for the cakes too but we shall see um that that may be in a rev two of the toasty boy i'm just going through the manual right now just looking for parts that call out for heat set inserts most of them i think are in the tool head yeah it's pretty much all in the tool ahead so that one can go in there and go in there that can go in there xy joints can go in there actually this needs one i think yeah this gets one burning nylon that's a new one so here's a fun fact about resin printers um i may have one soon so um oh yeah dust boot i'm gonna forget heat sets don't worry how hot is the soldering iron as low as it can go unfortunately mine's actually broken so it's on uh whatever temperature it is right now the little knob for controlling the temperature is broken on mine so i think i'm a little hotter than i need to be basically you don't want to cook the insert you just want them to melt into the plastic too hot is bad unfortunately uh this is also the first time i printed cf nylon and a bunch of these uh i really should have printed this with a 0.6 millimeter nozzle not a 0.84 i didn't have any 0.6 hardened nozzles so there's a lot of uh not oozing but a lot of pressure build up because nylon is a thick plastic compared to like abs it doesn't flow as freely so a lot of these prints have like zits on them and i'm not going to reprint them because i'm too lazy and i don't have enough plastic uh what's cf nylon uh sanesmart and i went with it because it was on sale on amazon and had good reviews actually like it prints really well it just if i spent more time to tune it in like the print quality is you know i can't really complain about the print quality the prints are actually really good it's just i have like stringy zits that i need to clean off a few of the parts when it did travel moves so i'm not too concerned at all really hey a latch arm i don't know why i printed a latch arm in abs why do i have an abs flat charm you are an extra part go in the extra part bin i printed these at 175 i think was the happy temperature i found we'll say this stuff's actually really tough okay so i need this piece and this piece these are going to get some heat sets at the bottom let's put the overhead cam on so you can watch me put heat sets in anytime you put a heat set in you usually have to either run a file or a blade over the top just to make sure that the little plastic that sometimes pushes up is removed because you want it to sit flush right to clean those out who wants a weller big mistake take a ts-100 yeah i use a ts-100 when i actually solder this is just an amazon special that i use for heat sets that's like all i use it for is heat set inserts and there's this one here that usually ends up melting a hole in my mat so i'll do it down here at the bottom and hold it with a knife because the last time i did one of these i melted it in and then i flipped it around and put my thumb over it to hold it while i melted the other one in and i burnt my thumb so move it so i don't melt my mac so just be careful with this one oh max is here hey max i'm trying to do all the heat sets right now we got the frame together already but trying to uh save time in future streams and kill time on this stream by when the heat sets in right now uh i have no accents all my parts are printed in cf nylon the same black um what i may do i haven't printed stuff like the drag chain mounts and whatnot those are i'll probably actually print in just my dark gray asa so i'll have somewhat of an accent belt routing yada yada afterburner assembly now we're getting to the parts where my filament started to get a little bit wet i think because all the fuzzies on it i really should have redid my pressure advance tune before uh printing this plastic because i printed it with just my abs profile with temperature tweaks and flow rate tweaks and i didn't bother to go through and do a pressure advanced tune i didn't think it would be that big of a deal but it does cause a few minor surface issues but everything fits together fine and all the screws go through everything so i'm not honestly too concerned it's all cosmetic for all i know these parts are all gonna fail within a week anyways because it's cf nylon so who knows so that's why the first thing we're going to be printing on this printer is um parts in other plastics how many stepper motors do you need for 1.8 you need five two zed x y e want to reduce weight on the x-axis or carbon fiber tubes instead of aluminum extrusion possible you'll save more weight going to a single x-rail and in my opinion chasing grams isn't honestly worth it anymore with like clipper and proper motion having an input shaper and whatnot like we're having people print sub 10 minute benches slinging around a full after burner tool head with the direct feed nema 17 pancake with dual x-rails and whatnot no problem so oh i gotta put two in the back here uh you guys heard it right there there will never be a v3 no more confusing peoples with numbers yeah i'm just going to the russian alphabet now voron suka blyat whiskey vodka actually there is no whiskey it just be vodka vodka putin next forward comes with an adidas track stripe down the side of it there's your accent piece and all it is is a v2 that's just squatted lower i think that's it for heat sets now i'm gonna have to put heat sets in the parts for uh drag chain mounting but i'm not doing those yet so i think we're good there yeah i think that's all of them so i can unplug this guy because starting to get a little melty war on v3 blyat belt yeah that's the uh the voron belt printer the warren bliap printer the voron mini yeah like v0 makes sense though because like you know the it's the smallest one it's the v0 although what were we calling it the uh the v naught because the joke was you know we're going to call it the the v naught as a take on dreadnought because it's a tiny printer so the joke would be we'd call it something big and it's zero right so not zero like thirty odd six or not o three so v naught then we stop using that name go that's everything there i will say the cf nylon is nice and stiff like i'm i'm not like compared to some of the abs parts i've done in uh abs plus this is much more stiff than that so hopefully i don't have creep issues otherwise we're going to have a bad time and i'm going to be replacing parts really quick color plus animal red printer of the owl actually no you want eagle eagle is the best stats where is discord go to the vorondesign.com and there should be a link there for the discord under community all the carbon fiber stuff uh this one doesn't need to flex it's a v1 frame gantry don't move gantry don't need to tram bed does though i don't know i'm out of my crappy timmy's coffee well we got 45 minutes left what am i going to do for 45 minutes i don't know what i'm going to do for 45 minutes on stream [Music] do it's whiskey wayne gretzky whiskey because canada i want to keep building i really do want to keep building but i don't want to have stuff mixed between videos like i really wanted to try and organize this like i've done the previous builds because honestly i'm hoping next week we have the whole gantry in this thing and maybe the bed i really want to hope that next week is put so i'm hoping um so going forward we got the frame built so the frame is built so what i'm hoping is next week we put all the parts on the frame so we get the gantry in and the bed in okay i'm going to be building the bed separate so this week i'm actually going to film a video on assembling the bed putting the heat mat on the magnet all that jazz so next week i'm hoping i can have all that all the stuff hung off the frame um and then the next week we'll either be finishing that up if i don't get to it and then the afterburner with the lgx and since we're using the lgx it'll be a lot simpler to put together and then so that's week three week four should be wiring i'm hoping um and if i make the loom on stream it'll probably be just wiring and then week five would be hooking everything up electronic wise power supply blah blah blah and then week six would be firmware and maybe print so can you drop the ldo v0 giveaway um do you want to give an ldo frame away oh yeah next week but um you have to ping it to me i you can't share links on uh stream on you you can't i would need to share it so uh hatchbox is okay i can get hatchbox up here hatchbox isn't okay bs honestly most abs is good as long as it's a name brand abs and not generic i bought it off aliexpress at ten dollars a spool abs you should be okay so for colors do whatever you want guys i've seen enough black and red vorons you know this one's gonna be red and black week six is replacing them i hope not um this guy is like twice the price almost more than twice the price of an lrs so putting together the frame didn't take as long as i thought it would that took not as much time natural abs and aluminum colored aluminum ooh aluminum aluminum that'd be very somebody did a noctua um let me find it here yeah let's see here tom's hardware yeah did he finish yeah he finished it i'm trying to find the finished french pickers yeah so somebody did a noctus uh themed voron uh this was uh yeah so somebody went with noctua colors for their voron uh austin did it so yeah go creative with your colors guys this is a v2 point uh 2.2 but yeah have fun with your colors seriously like that's one of the cool things from like the the china voron group that i've seen is they've gone crazy with like the colors and whatnot so uh the portal one oh yeah the uh the problem with the portal one it was just in my opinion it was too much like the the noise and like the interior stuff was fine but basically the whole printer just had so much stuff slapped on it it kind of ruined the lines if that makes sense so yeah cf nylon i've only ever seen in black so the plan is i have where is it yeah it's somewhere i have some dark gray um i have some dark gray um asa that i'm gonna print my chain links or um chain links my um drag chain mounts and all that where is my just move this hour on there we go i'm going to try and replace the pi sheet on this printer or at least get it ready to swap out oh yeah the surprise me pif colors if if doc is doing your piff and you pick surprise me you are going to have fun with your colors is there any material strong heat resistant as abs that doesn't give you hallucination fumes you might want those fumes they're sometimes fun but all in honesty um just don't print in a room you're in okay let's heat this bed up yp1 pt100 uh instead of pt or p1000 one needs a step sick um because the step 6 is only for pt100 the pt-1000 needs a separate board itself um i should be okay with the pt100 with temperatures it's just i don't i haven't used pt 100 i want to try it on one and i have the uh the step stick slot for it so might as well freezer trick and dishwasher well i'm hoping since i have a massive bubble in it that i could just heat it up a bit and peel off and then um we'll see what we have after that i'm just trying to kill air before 11 o'clock i'm honestly super happy that i can start this build because uh [Music] i'm i was i was starting to knock on doc's door to drag him in here for an interview because i don't think you guys i haven't you know got to the point where i'm counting screws yet on stream again so it is nice to be able to uh build something on stream get some gloves on 89 000. i put on backwards there we go scraper that ain't my good scraper a paramount silver dollar i've seen that i i like that filament okay so the bed's at 100 go to 110. so i'm hoping i could peel the uh pull the flex plate off um and peel the pi off right away and then i got to put one of those black pi sheets on it because uh that's my only printer right now that i have a tuned profile for that i can do abs on because tall boy has the the fetus high flow uh dragonfly high flow in it i don't have a tuned abs profile for that switch wire is not enclosed um the ender and then uh v0 is in storage yeah the eva build was cool i did like the eva build yeah printed ford was a reprap thing um it used to be back in the day you know other rep rappers but then rep repraps kind of died at least the reprap movement has kind of died because nobody's trying to build a printer that prints itself anymore you have the odd one that shows up at like murph or any other trade show where you have a printer that can print itself but nowadays you know we're using aluminum extrusions and linear rails and they're not really printing themselves anymore i'll be doing a more advanced abs guide can't get kvp to not warp like crazy uh turn up your temperatures turn down your fan i found kv kvp at least on my printers um i had to basically run almost no fan um and print a little bit warmer and first layer is super critical with kvp i found so all the printers don't have desk space for z v0 well okay so my v0 and bonsai used to be here um but i have all the parts for this build out because i wanted them all out um so they're easier on bonsai down there although um let me run this by you guys um because i am super famous youtube celebrity now i'm getting badger well not badger but i'm getting emails now from a lot of um printer companies that want me to look at their printers now let's be honest here most of them are just cheap ender three clones okay or the the like okay um i think i'm just gonna use them as stream fodder where if they send me a printer i'll put it together on stream but what i will do is actually like tear the like do the whole ave thing uh the bolter thing where i take it apart we dig through it we point at all the bad stuff we point at the good stuff um and we just build it on stream just to use as like a weekday stream thing like you know i do the odd weekday stream um so i think i'm going to use them for that because there's no way i'm going to review them there's no point they're all under three clones so no i've been not offered the neptune i don't think i was a i don't think i'm a big enough youtuber i wasn't at the time when they all got their neptunes so but uh banggood is apparently gonna send me a resin printer um so i will have i think it's an any cubic photon mono 2k um that was within my allowable budget so i should have a resin printer to play around with hopefully in the future okay so what i plan on doing is i'm going to try doing some models and minis and whatnot but i am gonna get some abs like resin i will try printing printer parts and i'm gonna put them on toasty boy crank it to 70c inside the chamber and uh see how long it lasts so we shall see okay let's see who wants to watch me burn my hands okay you ready 110c come on hi i and it's off we go i missed one i missed one vernon uh or bernard five dollars thank you appreciate it any diy v2 prints any abs great even but with kvp instantly gears instantly cracks these years even when i'm going sleep i'm not too sure i know a lot of people i i've only have like two spools of kvp and i haven't used them fully yet um but i know a lot of people swear by kpp so i'm not too sure i would ask in the discord about that that's the plan matt lam is basically do like a bolter thing like it for those that watch ave um good old uncle bumble ah english uncle bumble um he does a thing called bolter where he basically just rips tools apart and looks at him and then puts them together um so i think i'm gonna do that with these uh generic china printers just to take a look at them because i'm sure some are doing good stuff and then others you know if it's 150 printer they're cutting corners so we'll take a look um there's no point in doing diy sls because you can buy an sls printer for 200 that will be it you'll you cannot build something better for cheaper so there's really no point because literally all it is is a it's a screen and a zed like there's nothing to them in a cheat box board or whatever they're called uh peter i may do that if i run out of space like i might do that as an end-of-year thing soraya blue resin oh i know resin parts don't last long but if you get it on video it makes good content i should probably turn my bed off um you mentioned test rig for creep at some point uh okay i lost that uh nur q two dollars thank you appreciate it i'll let me scroll to chat and then i'll read it um oh somebody was asking about um a creep test rig um the thing is i i was thinking it was it wouldn't just be a creep test rig it'd be like a rig that would be able to test everything at once but um a second with talking with uh stefan cnc kitchen and he's already gonna do a creek test of thing so i might wait on his we'll see uh make sure you sign up on the ldo giveaway yes so next week there will be i'm giving away an ldo kit i don't know what's in the kit let me see because if you want me to link like i gotta you gotta link it to me so i could share it like dm me it and then i can share it because you can't share links in chat and if you're pinging me on discord i can't see it during the stream because i have uh streamer mode enabled so usually by the way for these uh you just take this throw it in a pie plate with a little bit of water in a dishwasher pad and it dissolves the uh the glue so throw it in the oven or the oven throw it in the freezer or heat it up and then you can peel off the uh the pei and then the adhesive just comes off because like you can use something like iso but it doesn't work too well i don't have a scotch-brite pad in here i don't think let me take a look easy i don't i gotta clean all that up um i'll have more info about because i'm going to give away i don't even know what i'm fully giving away it's an ldo kit i don't know if it's just the frame kit or if it's all the stuff for a visual we'll find out but i'll be doing that on stream next week so make sure you're subscribed and smash that bell and like the smash button and all that other turn on notifications and all that other youtube stuff that i got to say every video otherwise it doesn't work which by the way as dumb as it is for like when the youtube guy says the smash the like button or don't forget to subscribe and ring that bell halfway through a video if i look at my videos and like the statistics and when people subscribe it works it i hate it i hate doing it but it works that's why they do it it's like why everyone i i should have my dumb face in every um thumbnail because it works same with click bait titles they work that's why everyone does it uh linus tech tips did a good video where he explained why all the lions tech tip videos have the dumb you know pictures in the thumbnails it's because they work so what time on the 17th i don't know what time the war on there's two streams on the 17th there's the the voron day stream earlier in the day i'm not a part of that i might show up in it i don't know it depends on my schedule and then my stream later in the day at 8pm eastern like it always is uh chlorinated brake cleaner yeah that might work too i don't have any down here i think i have some in the garage i don't have paper towels yeah i don't have any scotch brake pads normally what i would do is just scott break this off but so i'll let this soak overnight and put a new pi sheet on it tomorrow so i can print some more abs burn here for your nero thumbnail confirmed you know what so this week i'm gonna make the video i'm gonna put together the um the bed the konovo bed and um i'm gonna record it and make a video of it and i will make a dumb thumbnail with my face in it doing the the soy boy face and we will see if that works we'll see how that works i'm gonna hate doing it and if it doesn't work i'm taking that thumb down down but we will roll the dice uh paul i stay away from ninety percent of clickbait pedals the problem is paul though is they work so yes you may stay away but most people don't and for a lot of people trying to make youtube happen you need viewers that's how everything works like you know i have x company companies contract or talk to me about doing a sponsored video and part of the way the payment scheme is will give you x amount plus x amount per view after and views matter so they do what works it's dumb believe me i hate it but it is what it is so in bed with a thermocouple pro both of them were about 10 is there a way to adjust the offset not really uh e2 so when it comes to uh eddie the engineer um subscribe to his channel he did a video breaking down uh probes like the temperature probes that 3d printers use and there is variance even like um slices 450 c rated uh like 50 probe that they use has like a swing of like 30 to 40 degrees celsius where it could just it's not accurate it's no probes are that accurate that what we're using they're consistent though so your probe might always read 30 degrees lower but it will always be that the same but when you compare probe to probe one probe may read right on and one might be 20 degrees or mine might be five degrees lower there's a swing of where they're accurate at that's why you always need to run a temperature tower you know i never do one but you should always do a temperature tower and calibrate your print temps to a temperature tower instead of what the box says because say your probe thinks 240 degrees celsius it's really 220. as long as you always print at 220 then then you're good so dustin i it's um 10 45 at night here almost i can't go do that right now okay maybe i will use the dog yeah i know i could the other scraper i don't want to make a mess i don't want to make a mess you won't believe number five sitting duck that is correct um most of my views um are returning viewers i get a lot of people that watch like when i put a video out my initial views are mad like crazy and then throughout the day they go down to normal but um according to youtube only 50 of you are subscribed so those that aren't subscribed why aren't you hitting that bell right now and subscribing but yeah um it's actually weird because uh about four or five months ago if i looked at my video views about seventy percent of people that watched my videos were subscribed to the channel now it's down to around forty uh so that means it's good because i'm getting more people that aren't subscribed or seen my videos so when i put a video out it's more likely to get recommended to people on the home page that aren't used to my content um so that's good the trick is to get them to subscribe because then my numbers go up and i get that dopamine response that makes me all happy so uh why 78 likes because i don't bait for likes i don't get it i don't know how likes affect live streams my live streams do really good in repeat viewings like my numbers for live streams are actually really good compared to my videos um like i'll like a live stream will get 10 000 views almost by a week after it comes out so that's really good so i don't know how likes affect i don't get it so eucalyptus oil i don't have euclid soil on hand and right now we're in lockdown so i can't go in any stores and buy anything oscar so for next week's stream when i do the uh the giveaway so as much as it works out better on my end that you have to be in the stream to win because then it keeps more people in the stream and my numbers look better i'm not doing that because i know a lot of the people that watch my streams aren't able to um watch the whole thing because it's like 11 o'clock east coast when i'm done that's like 4am in euroland so what i'm gonna do is i'm just in my opinion what i think i'm gonna do is just put the uh the giveaway link in the stream at the beginning and as long as you enter during the stream you have a chance to win and as long as you reply within like a day or two of the uh draw you you win if not i'll draw somebody else so that way you at least have to tune in for a bit but you don't have to watch the whole thing so i think that's a good mix between the two am i on ontario yes i am in ontario next week tell us the secret that corporate 3d printers don't want you to know okay dr ronnie you ready you ready if you take the time to tune your printer all printers print okay it doesn't really matter what you get just take the time to tune it and yeah but some can print really fast and we like those 4 40 a.m in the netherlands well max you're out on the west coast like poutine baguette pamplemoose he knows too much send in the accent oh yeah and also don't use bad filming it's like abs everyone's like oh my god abs is hard to print but what did you do well i went on amazon and i bought the cheapest spool of abs because i know i would like it and it stinks and it prints like garbage well you bought the cheapest spool of abs that's why so many people think asa is a wonderful plastic it's because there's more good asa filament out there than there is good abs filament but if you have good abs filament it prints fine just like good asa so that's my opinion at least uh what's the orange bus that is the spaghetti detective because i need to do a video on the hamara and i've been busy all week printing other stuff so this is the last thing i printed on it so i really wish i had more time i've got a cnc machine there that i need to play around with i gotta i gotta do a video on like the controller board and this and the extruder i gotta do a video on the um dragonfly high flow i gotta do that there's a lot of it takes a lot of time fight clipping um audios on acid these are new batteries i don't know what's going on there it's a new battery they're both new batteries i know the audio i know the audio why is it being all funky okay i think it's okay what the heck is going on sorry guys i i don't know what's going on there we'll go to podcast mode i don't know what's going on yeah there we go podcast mode i don't know what's going on with this mic i should go to sleep oh it is eleven almost play around with the mic after nope here let me let me actually listen to the stream um here let me let me settings okay one second okay is it any better now something's yeah i don't know what's going on it works yes yes okay yes there we go okay okay i don't know what's going on i don't know anti-f i don't know what happened there sorry about that guys so here's the trick youtube likes when there's a lot of interaction with the chat so if i have technical issues and you guys all spam f in chat youtube thinks that you're all interacting a lot and there's a big audience and it promotes me more so if i have technical issues and you guys all go nuts in the chat it looks really good on my end to the robots i don't know what happened i switched it from 44 to 48 hertz sometimes it does that i don't know what it is with the obs in this computer but sometimes when i boot up obs i have to switch it between the two because it the audio goes all crappy so don't do f spam because then i'll think it's actually goofed up again have you ever printed high density polyethylene ldp no i have not um i have okay i've got was a cf pc to play around with and then i also have this stuff so this is actually um what i'm going to try printing first on toasty boy is um it's filaments.ca because the a canada carbon fiber pc cpe so this is polycarbonate co-polyester um carbon fiber so nozzle 235 to 260 bed 100 to 110 so i'm going to try printing this i got some cfpc i'm gonna try and then i've got ultra pa glass fiber so printing temp 300 to 320 celsius bed temp 60 to 80. so this stuff um was actually sent to me by fetus i think they want me to test this on their dragonfly high flow i i'm going to use it on toasty boy so e yes we're gonna have the deep fried dank beams and just spam e with what is it markiplier's face or something i don't know i don't know memes i don't know uh i would try lltpe so low something polyethylene that's all do i have a po box i do not have a po box um so this has come up a bunch of people have asked this and i like asking these questions at the end of the stream because it's usually the guys who actually like enjoy the content that are still here if not everyone likes the content but the hardcore awesome people are still here all 300 of you um if should i set up a po box because people have reached out to me to want to send me stuff so should i set up a p.o box and i don't know i could do one of those streamer unboxing things where you just send me and i go through i don't know should i yes do it okay you guys also have to understand i live in canada so shipping it's not like cheap american shipping sometimes so okay i'll set up a p.o box um just give us your home address so my home uh so it's in south detroit um okay raymond i might actually send i think you already have my address raymond i think most of the the crew have my address already uh if you print all your new parts and the cf nylon is holding up are you gonna make another printer um so if the cf nylon holds up fine what i may do is swap out some components to other stuff to see if that holds up fine also um i need to print a whole new tool head for v226 because right now um this is let me see can i actually get this camera close enough to actually see probably not yeah i can get close enough prepare for shaky cam wrong camera is it hooked up oh no we lo we lost did we do we lose it oh no we we lost um lube cam oh well anyways um the tool head on v226 is a beta afterburner so this tool head was printed like two months before afterburner actually was released so nothing in here is compatible with modern afterburner i believe so what i'm going to do is i need to print a whole new tool head for this and i'm going to try something else we'll see i mean f oh f for loopcam okay oh yeah so my my printers kind of have names some of them that is v226 that is serial number v226 i have v226 and then i have tallboy which is v2579 i believe um but it's tall boy because it's tall it's like almost 400 millimeters of zed so i call that one tallboy and v226 is that one because that's just the easiest way to differentiate them for me and then switch wires just switch wire they're the only ones i have names for yeah we lost lube cam oh well uh working on a spool holder with integrated string gate i've thought about that um where like because what you would do is you would basically have to be able you'd have to have some sort of way of entering a known value because what if you swap between spools and different empty spools weigh different amounts so usually what i do um i don't do it with these sun because i know the weight of the sun but like this spool right here this is a 250 gram spool i believe of i don't know how much the spool weighs so what i would do is open the spool up put it on the scale right away after i open it measure the weight and then say it weighs 500 grams take 250 grams off that because that's how much filaments on it and then write 250 on the spool itself so that way later on if i want to know how much filament i have left on it i just put it on the scale minus my tear weight for the the spool and then i know how much film that's left on that so if you have a scale that automatically reads that out that'd be great what size uh 250 bed um i'm building a 1.8 why not doom coop because um i try to build printers on stream that are like main line releases that most people are going to build doom cube is a unfinished mod i i play with mods sometimes like a v0 runs a belted zed mod um but i try to keep these videos to mainline stock releases so that people can follow along with the build and build them to spec so uh yeah some of the cheap amazon spools do have those you can't always trust them but why not make a one millimeter cube because core xy at that size is dumb uh belt stretch becomes a major issue the printer is not designed to handle that 20 20 extrusions over a meter flex way too much even with rails it vorons don't scale that well to that size uh i'm not going to convert the ender to a switch wire because i want an ender so i can test ender stuff on it like the the thing with the ender it's so common that if i get a any hot end extruder combination there's already mounts for it so i can just slap that on if i convert this to a boron then i gotta you know like the bqh2 this won't fit in an afterburner so if i had converted this to an uh a switch wire i would have to go through and design a whole mount for this uh h2 whereas this i just go on thingiverse and download some guys random mount for it so because i happen to do content i i want that staying a switch wire or an ender what's max size bed for 1.8 300 i want to go be out beyond 300 because you're um just because uh so the guy who built a one meter cubed one the other day he modded a lot of stuff that is not a stock boron so it okay if you're gonna do a one meter printer don't do core x y go with a cartesian style scan tree where you have motors for the x-axis and motors for the y-axis and they're independent because that's going to make tensioning belts and keeping things squared up a heck of a lot easier than a core xy setup at that size so what about linear rails on ender 3v2 um i don't like v wheels i again if i was if this was my only printer i probably would go linear i like linear rails they're great but i don't think you're gonna buy too much out of an ender going linear i think they're what 30 dollars each so if you go so there's oh the x-axis you could benefit from it the y-axis yeah i don't know i haven't fully looked into going full ham on mods on the enders because i have four ons but um if it was my only printer maybe but because i have other printers i i want to try and keep that as stock as possible so [Music] time to leave 5 a.m i think i'm gonna call it two photo so um that was the first stream of the toasty boy build um the first stream for these builds is always kind of short because it's literally just an overview of the parts that i'm going to be using and the frame assembly so we have our frame it is here it is red it is square rectangularly square um it's got feet seas so next week we're going to hang some parts off this guy i'm going to give away a ldo v0 something so make sure you tune in make sure you are subscribed to the channel make sure you smash that like button like the smash button as well while you're at it because i always screw up my catchphrase um other youtube metric things hit the like button make sure you're subscribed ring the bell um sign up for my only fans i guess i don't know i have a patreon i got stuff in the description click links buy stuff that i'm affiliated with because you get stuff and i get money and i can use that money on stuff to entertain you i don't know you know how it is i do the youtube thing you enjoy the youtube thing i'll see you all next week enjoy the rest of your weekends be safe out there wash your hands and have a nice day cheers oh wait i gotta play the other [Music] one [Music] and my contributions from viewers like you thank you [Music] so [Music] [Music] you

Channel: NERO 3D

Views: 15,241

Rating: 4.9496403 out of 5

Keywords: voron, voron design, v2, v2.4, v2.1, v24, v2.2, v2.0, vzero, v0, v1, serial, request, cereal, overview, intro, 3d, printer, 3d printer, corexy, core, xy, abs, enclosed, V1.8, voron 1.8, toasty boi, toasty, boi, build, livestream, 1.8

Id: AX_Z4O18XCA

Length: 184min 16sec (11056 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 10 2021