Vintage Stanley Bailey #5 Hand Plane Restoration & Sharpening Guide

all right so my next project is to clean up these three old hand planes I've got a sergeant Bailey and a true test as you can see they're a bit what's the word I'm looking for Krusty did you get started I'm gonna tear them all down and give a nice bath scrub the loose stuff off and they're gonna soak for a few days and evapo rust and here's the plan I'm particularly excited about this is a Bailey plane I wonder if I can get that to focus come on it's Bailey and it's got the scalloped bottom which is pretty cool I don't have one of those so I'm gonna start taking this apart and we'll get this one soaking with the other one that's pretty gross here's the iron consistently rusty dull this one's got it's got this like white grease on it just like the other one had I don't know what that is some kind of shmoo full of woodchips now I noticed this handle has a crack in it right there still have to be careful taking this apart yeah it's broken I think the screw is the only thing holding it together hmm maybe there's a little bit pull it together let's see if I can show you that crack it's right there come on whatever looks like this is a number five I'll clean that up I'm just gonna take a scrub brush to this and get as much of the crap off of it as I can't the dust and loose stuff and then the goal rinse it off in some hot water here's a look at the components from the Bailey so I've cleaned this up just with scrub brush looks pretty gross all right I've got the Bailey and the true test planes soaking in evapo rust the Bailey plane sticks out higher than the level of the Apple rust so I've got a couple of paper towels in there soak that up and they have wick the evapo rust up and out of the water so that way the top of the I don't those are ears your what what those are called but it's this part here that sticks up now so I've just got these kind of I've got paper towels pushed up against them to keep them wet and we'll let those sit for probably a couple of days because they're pretty rusty all right so everything is soaked for about 36 hours and evapo rust i rinsed everything off and i scrubbed it with a wire wire brush and it looks a lot better here's the iron to cleaned up pretty nicely does have some pitting on it it's pretty dull so off to sharpen that everything looks pretty good I noticed there is a little bit of a dent and deformation on the bottom so I'll clean that up but you can see now that there's some patent information patent dates this is a number 5 Bailey and it's hard to see and I doubt you'll be able to see it on camera maybe this is Stanley rule and level New Britain Connecticut USA so at this point I guess I will start doing a little maintenance on the iron I'll sharpen that and I'll probably vary lightly sand the bottom of this to check for flatness and I know I got to fix this front quarter here it looks to me like it was probably dropped onto concrete or a or something it's got a pretty big ding in it so I have to get rid of that and I'll check back in at that point so here are all the parts after they've come out of there you've Apple rust bath here's the Frog looks pretty good the paint is biking right off which is okay I guess here's the end cap got some pitting on it looks to me I get this to focus like somebody put a pair of pliers on this adjustment now I don't know if you can if you'll be able to make out but it's it's in sad shape it's disappointing but I don't I really don't understand why at some point you would ever put a pair of pliers on this it's a fine adjustment knob it's not something that would ever need pliers to be applied to it so oh well okay I've got a floor tile here which is going to serve as a flat reference surface for me and I've got some 150 grit sandpaper with some wd-40 sprayed on it and all I'm gonna do is use the weight of the plane and just slide it back and forth and that's gonna hopefully help flatten any any high spots and I know I've got some dings and scratches on this from being probably dropped and I'm hoping just to remove any of those imperfections I'm not looking to remove much material you can see sandpaper just got a bit of a dark color on it that's just a little bit of the material coming off what I'll do is I'll I'll wipe this and look at it for the shiny spots that would be my those will be my high spots and once I get a consistent level of shine I'll be happy and I'll stop [Music] and I'm just gonna keep going this is gonna take a quite a while so I'll come back when I'm done all right I switched from 150 to 220 and I've gone through and I did cleaned up at the bottom it's still pitted I would have to do some serious material removal to get rid of all the pitting and honestly this is never gonna be you know a brand new kind of tool anyway this is mostly just cleaning it up for me I also did 150 and 220 on the sides just kind of clean it up a little bit and I did get rid of there was a know if you guys would be able to see right here on the very corner it looks like it was dropped and it deformed and you can see it's there's a shiny spot right there that's been sanded it's perfectly flat with the rest of it so it won't catch now we can move on to the iron so the iron is kind of cool you may notice there's a bit of a line right here and it's discolored depending on how the light hits it it came out of the evapo rust looking like that it's not on this side only on this side so I did some research online and it looks like this particular model the number five with the corrugated bottom with no logo no stanley logo on the lever cap was produced up until 1925 so I believe this plane we is was manufactured in 1925 or earlier than that and also during that time Stanley was laminating their ions so there's there's two different kinds of steel here and I don't think I'll be able to show you but there is a very yeah you guys will never be able to see that there's like a one millimetre layer on the underside of this iron and that is the cutting edge you may be able to see there's a bit of a line along the edge where the color is different yeah not really but the first millimeter of the edge there is this is a different color than the rest of the iron because it's a different type of steel so there's two Steel's laminated together in these irons and according to the research I did Stanley did that on their ions up until around World War two so you guys I won't be able to tell but the iron is chipped in this corner so I've got a significant amount of sharpening to do in order to remove that so I'm gonna start here with some one 150 grit sandpaper and some wd-40 and I'm just gonna find the angle all right I was using the 150 in the 220 and I've worked it up to a wire edge of course focus focus thank you you guys won't be able to tell doesn't matter so I have 400 here and I'm just going to keep working that edge until that water edge just disappears if anyone at WD is watching this I'm like all out do you want to hook me up that'd be awesome I love my WD products I'm just dragging I've I'm laying it flat like this with the bevel down to try to break that wire edge off now fancy woodworkers will tell you you got to invest in like a hundred dollar water stones or you got to have those like diamond plates yeah I'm sure those work really well but if you're like me and you're a casual woodworker and you don't have like hundreds of dollars to spend on stones you can walk into the home-improvement store buy a nice flat tile for five bucks and then a couple of packs of varying sandpaper grits and you can achieve hair shaving sharp for 20 bucks so I'm just going to keep going back and forth between cutting the bevel and then the back side to remove the wire edge I'll just keep going until I get the level of scary sharp that I'm happy with and then once I get to that level I'll go up to I've got 600 grit and I'll go I'll do a couple of laps with the 600 just to get a nice polish on it and I'll be done all right well it's good an old Greek past 600 jump fest 800 and went to a thousand because why not and this is now the sharpest thing in the shop it is hair shaving sharp if you guys can tell but there ain't no hair right there so I'm gonna put a piece of blue painters tape on that for now so I don't kill myself trying to assemble this thing and oh yeah scary sure so I'm working on assembling the Bailey plane and I've noticed that if the handle has a crack in it along here so I'm going to I'm gonna try to clean this up it's got some finish on it it's got quite a bit of just grime so I think I'm gonna do is do a little bit of light sanding to get down to a more natural finish and that I may see it's really tight that crack and I don't want I don't want to break it to glue it but if I can get a couple of drops of either wood glue or some CA glue and they're just just to help hold that then I will do that alright I've sanded it and I was able to glue the crack with some superglue so it looks pretty darn good and if you didn't know it was cracked you probably wouldn't be able to tell so what I'm gonna do now is put some butcher block conditioner on there and I'll probably do two coats of that and we'll put everything back together [Applause] [Music] well the Stanley Bailey number five corrugated bottom is back into action that's pretty good for a hundred years old thanks for watching keep your wooden device [Applause]

Channel: ThisOldTool53

Views: 279

Rating: 5 out of 5

Keywords: tool, restoration, hand plane, plane sharpening, sharpening, wood plane, woodworking, planer, planer rescue, tool rescue, hand tool rescue, sharpening guide, chisel, stanley plane, stanley bailey, bailey plane, old tool, this old tool, thisoldtool, thisoldtool53, wd-40, evaporust, tot53, vintage, vintage tool

Id: TkHbZuIC5Rk

Length: 22min 9sec (1329 seconds)

Published: Fri May 10 2019