102 Year Old Stanley #5 Plane (TOOL RESTORATION / PRESERVATION)

all right today I will be restoring this Stanley Bailey number five I can't tell what type it is yet because I cannot see how many patent dates are underneath all the dirt but it's definitely an earlier one you can tell right off the bat by the shorter knob it doesn't have the lip around the knob it doesn't have the lip on the toe or the heel it just has a nice thick sole on it which is good because I'm gonna have to sand a lot off to make up for all the rust that's on the bottom now I'm going to start out with disassembly and trying to get the bulk of the dirt off of it so I can have a better idea of what I'm dealing with give you another look at just how dirty it is how much stuff's in there I can hear stuff falling now it's in pretty good condition had some people ask me to either list or mention some of the tools that I'm using in my last video this is actually one of my favorite screwdrivers it's made by champion and it says Made Champion in the USA and then it's got Ford stamped into it like the shape of the handle it's pretty nice really comfortable most comfortable screwdriver I have actually is a Stanley which is this one it's a Stanley sweetheart you barely see the Stanley Works heart there kindnesses Stanley right above it made in USA underneath it it's not the fanciest screwdriver but that shape is wonderful then we got three patent dates that's particular to a particular type looks like the Japan is in decent condition I'll probably just clean it up and run it with that as too much original Japan ting to take off and redo I'm pretty happy with that it's got a little wear in the joint so it's not a perfect fit anymore pretty close though pretty another one of my favorites cruisers made by Winchester I like the brass handles pretty nice as far as comfort especially with something now large now I'm gonna start wiping everything down with wd-40 it'll help keep the dust down when I take it the wire wheel will help loosen up the rust [Music] yeah I think that Japan he was gonna come out nice the shame is left sitting outside for so long this was a really nice plane before the weather took its toll all right I'm gonna take it to wire wheel get all the rest off and then all blew up this handle maybe I'll start with the handle actually gotta go find my glue I took a heat gun to it to make sure all the acetone is dried thoroughly just using Elmer's wood glue all right set that aside to dry hopefully holds up well now I'm gonna strip down the knob using acetone it'll take off all the gunk and varnish like I said before when working on the tote see how it's cleaned up I'm thinking it might not need any work the more I look at this plain unless I feel like it really needs a full restoration I'm thinking I might try to do more of a preservation sort of deal of course the the sole is gonna need to be taken to the wire wheel cuz there's just no way of sorting that out but I think I'm gonna try to leave some of the patina behind if I can get the surface rust off of these without taking it down to bare metal and that's what I'll do but if there's no getting around it if I can't just take it down to something like what it would have looked like if it had been well cared for its entire life then I'll reassessing might just have to take it all the way to bare metal now I'm gonna be using my wire wheel I'm gonna start out with the lever cap see if I can get just the rust off and leave some of the patina behind using just a general-purpose craftsman motor I think is from 1953 some people in my last video were wondering why my why it was moving around because I only had two holes that fit so it's got bolts in the back but they're not tightened down really tight cuz I've got rubber grommets on it that's why it's moving I'm really gentle right now [Music] you can see where the metals coming through rust is leaving but it doesn't look like brand-new shiny metal it still has some age on it I'm trying to hold on to as much of that color as I can but getting rid of the rust it's gonna take a while so there you can see as it's starting to come through you got a even pressure so you don't burn through in one spot once you burn through in one spot you have to redo the whole thing you know how to take it all down to bare metal still feels pretty smooth under there I have some hope that will turn out all right just have to be really careful [Music] [Music] wipe it down and see what I got yeah I got a couple of bright spots mostly around the keyhole work on us some more later with steel wool try to even things out I really want to keep it looking like it's 100 year old plane [Music] [Music] so I finished wire wheeling the hardware but you might notice that the brass isn't in there that's because as I said earlier this restoration has kind of taken a different path than I thought it was going to to begin with once getting into the details of it and seeing that this plane wasn't ever really abused and seeing how nice the knurling is on here I don't want to take it to the wire wheel and roll all that over and it's gonna move that brass around and it's not gonna have that Christmas crisp edges on there and I want to hold on to that the same with the nuts there this one's a little damaged but overall it's an amount of damage that that really adds up to character if things were really beat up if it had been abused then yeah I just go over the wire wheel and strip it down sand everything flat polish it up and make it look like new but that's not the path that I want to take with this plane anymore as long as the parts continue to come out all right the most difficult piece is gonna be the chip breaker I've got it soaking in wd-40 right now but this metal is really soft so when I take it to the wire wheel it's gonna want to burn right through to the metal and it's gonna create shiny spots really easy the blade is tool steel at the bottom part and then it's a softer metal up at the top I don't think it's quite as soft as the chip breaker but it's real easy to burn through the patina on the top of the of the blade as well and then of course the sole is gonna be a big a big deal and how well that comes out if I'm gonna have to sand it all the way down and hopefully do that out when I get to it and I'm gonna go wipe it down and see what I got a little brighter than I want it to be but still looks old so I'm gonna roll with it moving on to the blade we all are playing a lot more pressure to this and it's still holding its color because it's tool steel it's not soft metal [Music] that's some serious pitting it's gonna suck to sharpen I'm gonna start working on the Frog [Music] [Music] [Music] smaller detail areas I'll have to do with my dremel pretty sad about that took off some Japan in by accident [Music] [Music] [Music] oh I think your prints are messing it up what looks like it all the rust off it's got quite a bit of pitting in it so there is a lot of pitting as I've mentioned before more than I'm willing to try to lap out and I don't know if I'd want to take this route anyway anything I'm a flat lap the bottom if it's not flat enough don't check it if it's if it's flat already close to it I might not flat lap it at all and just leave leave it with that finish because if everything else looks like it's somewhat original and after this gets some of its color back over like a year or so it's not gonna be obvious that people say it somebody messed with it except for those spots that I took off a little Japan by mistake so I'm gonna have to think about what to do on this well I think about what to do with the soul there's plenty of other work to be done let's start working on the brass my hand just gonna take a brush and gently get off the goal is not to make it look brand new and take all the character off but the goal is to kind of make it look like it's never been fiddled with but more like it's just been well cared for over the 100-plus years it's been around so it's still gonna show the character it's still gonna show the history it's still gonna show use but you don't want to make it look brand new if you're doing more of a preservation rather than restoration so still has its color it still has it someone staining patina but it's all smooth there's no gunk still on it that's all just in the middle getting inside of there is always difficult without creating the without it becoming too bright and showing that it's been been cleaned you I don't think I'm gonna be able to get it much cleaner without it going through the patina now I'm going to use scratch out to the automotive product for getting minor scratches out of core paint I'm gonna put this on here would stick to q-tips so doesn't make it perfect but it gets off all the gunk and grime a little Sheen back still can be cleaned up some more one more time all right I went over it one more time with the scratch out and then wiped it down with a thin coat [Music] it'll help protect the spots where the Japan has come off I also wiped down the entire sole to help prevent rust and it gives it that extra Sheen on the Japan II now I'm gonna use my dremel tool with the wire wheel to try to get in these smaller spots on the Frog [Music] [Music] [Music] mm-hm brought out a lot more than black got off the gun congr I'm missing a big chunk yeah but that still needs to get sometimes acetone now I'm gonna go back to the lever cap and hit it with some steel wool and wd-40 see if I can get it out a little yeah it doesn't look like it made much difference but I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out considering how bad the rust was to begin with all right let's see how the handle came out you're definitely gonna be a visible crack there stand off the glue and see how it looks still gotta sand it down some more gotta get these scratches out from the heavier grit sandpaper I think it's maybe around 150 doesn't say on this piece 320 I think I'm gonna get some epoxy and mix up some of the dust that I just sand it off and I'll fill in that a little bit later - feelin really nice all right all done sanding came out pretty good for the most part you see just a little bit of glue showing through there you can see the darker area where the where the crack was a couple of spots of glue shove if you look real close this is the biggest problem this little piece that was broken out hmm I sanded it down a little bit and now I'm gonna try to take some epoxy mix in some of the shavings that I sanded off of it and then try to fill that hopefully that'll dry up properly and I'll be able to sand it down and it'll blend it I'll come back to that later now I'm going to sand the knob so the next thing I'm gonna look at is the how well the frog fits into the sole these machine surfaces you need to check them to make sure there's no high metal any burrs anything that's been pushed down the wrong direction that's gonna prevent it from sitting properly in the sole so just to check that I've got this stone to kind of like a sharpening stone but for sanding corners and stuff like that [Music] I don't know if you're gonna be able to pick that up on the camera but I can see all the spots that have been scuffed by the block and they're spread out all over so it probably will seat nicely on that section but I can feel with my finger that there's a little lip on here that needs to be taken off I can see reflections on this side that side and over all through the middle the only raised edges anymore and do the same thing set that down in there it should slide back and forth a little bit but you want to make sure it doesn't rock back and forth everything is getting good contact and I've thought long and hard about what to do on the soul and I think I'm not going to flap it I've taken it over my surface plate and checked it from about here back is flat the toe rises a little bit and I can see a gap underneath that but that's not a problem at all that'll actually help it right up over the work so you're not digging into it with the front edge or anything so that's not gonna hurt anything having it a little raised up in the front which is probably why it's raised up in the front from getting from hitting the rough the roughest part of the wood before it hits the blade so this is worn a little bit if I put it all together and it doesn't take a shaving the way that ought to man I might revisit that that idea but as is even with the pitting it doesn't have any high metal it's not warped so I'm gonna leave it I'm gonna leave you know that visual of its history the worst pitting or action is actually over here on the side you can see and there's no way I'm gonna flat laugh that out of there so that's gonna be there no matter what I might as well leave it we look inconsistent this is gonna take a long time good welders setup magnet there's still more pits back here but up along the edge I think I got them all enough to be able to get a good sharp edge on to the belt grinder go now I'm gonna that was like a rough grind now I'm gonna come back here and get it a little flatter cuz it's not perfectly straight on the belt grinder so I gotta flatten that bevel out and then take it down to its final edge you've got a burner all across the edge kind of doubt you're gonna be able to see it alright moving up to 400 grit 600 grit so I went ahead and filled in red and sand it down the filler that I put on that Nick and now you're gonna wipe it down with some linseed oil well for some reason my camera stopped recording but continuing on with assembly one thing that I did do off-camera as i lapped the edge of the chip breaker so that it will sit flat against the blade so no no chips will get underneath there that's something I'd recommend doing probably should take English you hey everybody thanks for watching I hope you enjoyed the video if you did I would appreciate it if you would give it a thumbs up drop a comment in the comment section below and subscribe to my channel I hope you'll join me for the next one have a great day

Channel: A Craftsman’s Arsenal

Views: 2,862

Rating: 4.8222222 out of 5

Keywords: tool restoration, vintage tools, stanley plane, wood plane, woodworking, diy, refurbish, old tools, rust removal, tools, how to, bench plane, restore, hand tool restoration, hand tools, woodworking tools, restoration, handtools, how to restore, fine woodworking, antique tools, tool, traditional woodworking, how to remove rust, old tool restoration, antique tool restoration, antique restoration, stanley tools, rusty, how to restore a hand plane, vintage restoration, Satisfying

Id: v_8gHw50NpU

Length: 47min 48sec (2868 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 22 2020