Unigrind #1 End mill grinding fixture

[Music] hey guys welcome to bar Z my name is Stan and today we got a package from mr. Keith Rucker sorry I don't move that chair out of my way I've been kind of eyeballing these things uh kind of rare that they come up it is a unit grind by a company called Kin Kin Mac so I'm considered I'm assuming that skin machining it has a serial number but no model number serial number is 402 and this is the only paperwork I really have because Keith sent it to me and it's got some really horrible illustrations if you look carefully at the actual unit and these illustrations the bars are on the wrong side they're using the stylus wrong they're doing a lot of different things wrong and they got a drawn mirror image in a couple places I think that one's right you know that one they're you they're kind of using the stylus correctly there there's two ways to use the stylus up here they've got the bushings drawn in backwards and the the hinge point is different on the drawing than it is on the actual unit so it's it's kind of sales literature is what this is but I I was lucky enough to contact Tony over at this old Tony and he he's got one of these and he has some pretty rare paperwork there and he PDF tit and emailed it over to me so I'd like to thank Tony for that let's take a look at this kit I put a Keith sent me a sticker so I went ahead and stuck it in the lid so I'd always remember where I got it from so again thank you mr. Keith Rucker and this kid had some issues you know when I first took it out of the box I kind of thought you know this thing hasn't been used and I've got a couple of little detective work that I did here there's the tip of the stylus if that had been used it would have rubbed away the bluing and it's untouched that's one stylist the other one there's the tip of the stylus and you can you can probably see a shiny spot and that's because I put it there I've already ground a couple of in mills so I actually got to play with it a little bit and but this stylus here looked just like this one the spare these are two different thicknesses so I'm sure the little one the little thin one is for smaller end mills that have the smaller I think they call that the gash up the spiral of the flute so anyways that tip that's the first clue that this thing's never been used the second one was I went to go put my first end mill where actually I want you to put my first collar down in the tube here and it didn't fit and I thought well that's strange um so you know I tried my first little adapter collar here and it wouldn't go in it would go in about an eighth of an inch bind up really tight and you know it's just just a really bad fit so I tried another one you didn't fit either and I tried yet another one and you know she wouldn't go in either and see that one's still pretty snug right there so none of them would fit you know not without some not without a manual impact of ice and you know then you go to put it maybe we want to put an invalidity endmill like doing the whole either and you know down we've got a nice snug fit my sat there with diamond lapping paste and an aluminum lap on the lathe and sat there and moved this thing in and out by hand with the lathe spinning very slowly and lapped that thing out and got it it was it was a good 6/10 small so no one could have ever used thing it just it was an impossibility because nothing fit and the lack of scratches on the bushings would be another telltale so in my book this thing's new old stock never been used like I say I've played with it let's get it all unpacked and see what it's what everything that's in there you know I watched Tony's video this morning and his kit is a much nicer kid it's got some bearing followers and some cams and things for doing drill bits this one does not this one is in Mills only and this one does not have the radius attachment for diamond cutting your wheel as his does alright so let's just get all this stuff unpacked and kind of go over it step by step and I'm gonna use Tony's instructions I'm gonna use just my what little knowledge I have of end mills and we're gonna go through go through these things and start playing with some angles and stuff okay so we got all the components laid out on the table here first is the main body and I've got it in the end grinding position and you will notice that it does tilt and it's kind of a sign bar setup on it you take the allen wrench and you loosen that's got a little strap on it so you can tilt this thing around and shove it way up there you can get a pretty good tilt out of that thing and you'll notice also that when it comes down it goes beyond zero so see it's tilted in that direction right now and there's a reason for that and we're gonna go we're gonna go over that so the tools that I've been using on my on my first grind was this a little straightedge you know you this is actually really handy for for checking some angles and things like that let's go over the engraving first we're gonna we're going to go over doing an in grind here and there's there's three elements to they call the first grind they call it a gum out but I found on the over on the on the web they also call it a gash so terminology is changes depending on who you talk to so we're gonna work on the gash I like that word - so we're gonna work on the gash a little bit what you do want to do to set that up is this is this is what's called a master bushing and you say I've got I put those four red dots on there and therefore for flute in mill or two flute if you just use opposite so we're gonna drop in a master bushing and what that allows us to do is index north south east and west or just north and south so this would do a two flute or four flute either one we have all axes loose on the machine right now we're loose in this direction and we're loose in this direction now for the gum out or gash we're gonna leave it all the way down and right now we are past level or beyond it in a downward position we are sloped downward and I'm going to show you the reason for that in real quick your first let's see your first two grinds are all in this position and then your last your last final grind you have to elevate it and I'll show you a why here in a little bit let's just grab an end mill and the first thing you want to do is line it and here comes your straight edge again your straight edge comes in handy for lining these turkeys up set your index pin in one of the four positions and use your straight edge and clock this guy around until you're parallel with that line right there so parallel with the axes of the fixture and this is odd leading the machine and it's already bumped up against the rear rail so you would get rain milling decks like that and then find your set screw and just and just snug it up there's a pretty low pressure operation you don't have to go tight with any of this stuff grinding doesn't create a whole lot of cutting force all right now you'll notice we are tilted back all right and what this enables us to do is get into that we're going to start with the with the lower cut the intermediate cut and then we'll do the final cutting edge last now your grinding wheel is gonna cut vertically only so that's why we have to back break it but we need to we need to pick this angle of the gash so I just been all I have been doing is taking my straight edge here and lay it on the existing cut and clock this guy down until I see a and use that as a horizontal reference so we'd come down there and walk down okay got you zoomed in on there our fixture and now we're gonna be working on right in here and that that's what is known as the gash and you're going to use a cup wheel remember our our in mill is tilted backwards so we're gonna be creating a positive cutting edge right there and we're capable of doing three indexes there or four indexes I'm sorry okay and that's why we got our red dot so we land on the right in the right holes cuz it's color-coded you don't even have to read or nothing okay so that creates the gash that's this guy right here now we switch we leave it in this position and we're gonna switch to a flat wheel we've we've got a cup wheel on there and we get our little so you wind you up to look down at what a gash looks like right in here see we've created a cause positive cutting edge right there all right so that's that's the gash that we just created so that's grind number one grind number two remember we we're tilted down at this at this lower angle now what the instructions tell you to do just put a 400,000 gauge stack which I just will happen to have right here put a four hundred thousands gauge stack down on that pad right there right down here and bring it down on that and now we're ready to do our secondary grinding and we're gonna keep it at the same gash angle roll this over where you can see again okay all right this time we're going to be going for this grind right here not this gash in here but now we're doing this big flat spot right here so this is the one we're working on now we're still at the same angle that we ground this the only thing we did was was tip it a little bit so same thing one two three and oops four color-coded so we could turn all of these right here so you've got all your all your large cutting edges done now it's time to move on to the to the actual cutting surface that's the what do they call it they call it the land okay so now we've finished two of two of the three grinds we've done the gas we've done the the rear main clearance angle now it's time to do the actual cutting edge mm-hmm and you are going to change angles here again you're gonna leave your 400,000 gauge stack in there and I'll show you I can show you why let me turn this around and kinda aim it to you maybe you can get a good view of that your 400,000 gauge stack I lay this straight edge straight across my cutting surface it's gonna touch with the way you've got the the fixture elevated it's going to grind it so that out here and out here touches your work first and you'll have a some clearance in the center you always want your in know the cut on the circumference of the mill not out in the middle and drag across your all your end mills are like that go check them but now we have to pick our cutting angle you know and we're gonna release here and this can probably be a little tricky you have to lay a straight edge of some type right across your cutting surface which is a very small cutting surface you know it's not gonna be very big and if it's dulled up and I'll chowder it's going to be kind of hard to see I'm seeing five degrees here and I'll just go with that okay so gauge stacked in we've tilted this upper until we've got a 5 degrees and once again we can do our cutting surface it's four places north south east and west okay and just do small down feeds you as long as you've dressed your wheel properly there's really no need for you to have to traverse across the work I guess we could go ahead and head over to the grinder we should probably do the in grinding and the flute grinding separately because there's a lot of setup and the setup is very different on both so we should probably go ahead and go grind a go grind an end and then see how that goes okay well I found a corncob that's been touched up and hanging around a bunch of times and you know what I got a unigram now so I can fix this turkey the the flutes are still really sharp but it's been touched up on the edge we're going for the gas first we're gonna use a CBN Cup wheel and we laid our straight edge across that gash angle it's pretty steep on this one you know it's all the way to the max of the Machine it's all the way up 45 degrees I just laid my straightedge right in that gash and got that eyeball horizontal with to my protractor and I was like a degree off so I picked 40 five and we're off to the races but that CBN is gonna come in here and run across there and create that gash on all four sides so let's go get this wheel mounted up no need to dress it it's already been cleaned and dressed and matched a dis Arbor this this wheel never comes off the arbor so let's get all four of those cuts done and then we can move on to our other two grinds okay I've got a set up on the surface grinder I've got a light point it at it where I'm hoping you can see I have to flip the rear guard up or you're not gonna see anything I have a table stop set so I don't run into my knob right here we've got a hard stop set here on the table and I haven't really touched off yet I was just gonna get some [Applause] so I hear something like like what you deserve [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] we were low [Music] what my head [Music] so the 3000 feet I said in that way [Music] which nice about this you can pop it out to look at it goes right back in and hopefully can kind of see what we started there it's got the beginnings of a cleanup got some more to do [Music] [Music] [Music] all right we'll move all the way across right there we've moved all the way across and we made contact all the way out when we grind in the top that's gonna bring all those together that's that's the gash right there she had created a positive break on transition for our cutting food okay we switched out wheels we switched to a different rinder this grinder actually has a little more Headroom than the other one because it doesn't have the sine plate permanently installed on the table so I got a little more Headroom on this machine which puts the wheel over to a CBN type wheel I have put a gauge block stack in there this is my 400,000 stage block stack and we've changed our angle to 20 degrees and we're going to start working on the back back relieves you're touching it I want to make sure I got a good touch off on all four before I start coming up GABA McHale got a little touch off on all four [Music] what I'm doing is I'm down feeding a very certain amount when the hand will each position to get us get the bulk of the material removed using my implements on my hand wheel [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] I'll show you where we are so far okay we're plowing an awful lot of material out of there but we have to do is we have to thin up a little farther away what we need to do is we need to thin up the the cutting surface because we're going to be thickening it up as we grind it so we pretty much needed to cut this almost all the way away with this with that back relief so we're gonna keep going with it maybe another ten twenty thousand so you [Music] hm [Music] [Applause] I believe the old woman you know clarify I thought to make our leading edge pretty much disappear we're gonna grind it right back [Applause] [Music] we're up the ball but gone [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] alright there's our with the thing shuts down okay so there's our three or four back reliefs and we've pretty much taken the cutting edge away so that's next oK we've changed everything up we're we've gauge block stack is in we've switched our angle from our from our back relief to our actual cutting the cutting edge which is five degrees how do we know that because we measured it ahead of time because here we ground it all the way and we got we've got nothing left to measure so we're just getting ready to get going here and touch off alright let me kind of reset my dial here so I know where I'm at all right [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] okay pin down to upper first made contact with you down 10,000 [Applause] [Applause] [Music] yeah like you looked it up [Applause] [Applause] I'm gonna come down another half thousand without touching that wheel I'm just going to go around and do all for that exactly the same [Music] [Applause] Delta thought we're sure they can cut people yeah [Applause] okay so now you can see we've established our cutting surfaces our cutting surfaces are still very small which is what we want and they've got a 5 degree rake and then our back clearance in the back that's 20 all right this thing's pretty much done let's go throw in the mill and cut a piece of scrap and see how it looks [Music] you know she's moving right along chips are pretty much what I'd expect in that mill [Music] mm-hmm okay well here we're here wrapping this up and you can see it I can certainly see it if I lay my straight edge across there it's definitely got that dish in the center so that that was with the four hundred thousands gauge block stack under the unit rind right down there you got 400 thousands gauge of stack you know this was videos probably running a little long so maybe we'll save the other one for part two I'd like to thank Keith Rucker for the you know ground itself I'd like to thank this old Tony for the great instruction sheet that he emailed me and his video helped me out a lot and getting this set up so that was awesome so thanks to the YouTube guys for coming together and stay tuned for part two where we start grinding some flutes but not those I don't know how to do those all right man thanks for watching [Music]

Channel: Shadon HKW

Views: 26,176

Rating: 4.8666668 out of 5

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Id: pv8fjuQ5FBo

Length: 34min 59sec (2099 seconds)

Published: Sat May 12 2018