Two Trees SAPPHIRE S (3DPrinter) - Detailed Assembly & Test Prints

[Music] hi guys and welcome to one more video I'm Sandra and this is the hyper youtube channel today we will show you our new 3d printer it's the sapphire s from two trees and it's a core XY printer we will start with the unboxing and the assembly and next we will do some test prints so if you want to see the results stick around and watch our video as usual we will explain all the details hi guys let's do this most of the parts are spreaded inside the box and you can find the hardened assembly a bag with tools the auto level sensor a cooling fan a filament sensor a couple of n stop switches a bag with screws and feet a spool holder belt and pulleys some rubber strips a USB flash drive the extruder parts the extruder mount the extruder stepper motor a bag with screws and heat sinks the display power cord rods a lead screw some 20 by 20 profiles and he bet and platform the heat bed is a DC aluminum bed with the print surface on top and the print area is 200 by 200 by 200 millimeters next we find a spool with ABS pink filament and a top assembly next we find some wire tubing and PTFE two and a printers base and under that we find bottom cover panel the electronics are all under the printers base the Sapphire is equipped with a 32 bit lurch X board for the X and y-axis we have a couple of lve 87 29 drivers running at one by hundred and twenty-eight steps for the Z and the extruder we have a couple of Allegro's a 49 88 drivers running at one by 16 steps the printer also includes the lurch power monitor module which allows print resume in case of power failure and controlled power off for the heat bed we have a lurch high power module and heat bed adapter module the power supply is a 24 volt 15 amp model with our printer there was no written assembly manual we only received this sheet stuck on the outside of the package and did not include all the steps now that we have all the parts out and identified we can start the build and we will start with the heat sinks there are two different ones on the bottom side there is thermal tape that you will use to stick the heat sinks on the driver's the big ones you need to glue on the LV 87 29 drivers and the smaller ones you need to glue on the Allegro a 4988 drivers make sure that the heat sinks are not touching any pins or metallic components the cooling fan will be used to cool the electronics there are a couple of holes that you need to pass the screws in to secure the fan make sure you get the fan sticker faced to the board this way it will push air to the board there is no reference anywhere of where to connect the fan we tested the status LED output and it works but if you have doubts like me get some Ferrell's and connect the fan directly to the 24 volt output of the power supply as we mentioned before the bore is a large X version one point 0.5 the labels for the connections are all under the board but you can get this information online so you don't need to take the board out the display assembly includes the 3.5 inch color touch screen the power on button and USB extension to install the display first place the bottom nut in the slot but before doing so pass the cables in and connect the flat cable to the board open the latch and insert the flat cable make sure you get the blue stripe off the flat cable facing up now close the latch next use the two T nuts on the metal profile to secure the display assembly then connect the USB extension get the blue connector and connect it to the power on button grab the bag labeled a and get two screws grab for metal profiles and install them on the corners grab the rods and install them the thicker ones are installed at the backside [Music] before installing delete screw adjust the rigid coupling and install the lead screw adjust both flex couplings and install the thinner rods [Music] [Music] now we can install the bad platform take the bullies out and place them on rods don't bother tightening all the set screws since we will need to adjust a height later on before installing the top assembly we need to check two linear rails we found that ours was moving hard on one end and too loose on the other and this is due to the linear rails not being parallel to each other to fix them we just need to loosen the rails and adjust them now we can install the top assembly and secure it with four screws now we can adjust the height of the poise to write one needs to be aligned with the right top bearing [Music] and the left one with the lower left bearing next is the belt pass the first one at the front right of the x-axis carriage make sure you get two teeth with teeth and secure it with the zip tie pass it around the bearing and pulley all the way back around right and left idlers [Music] and we'll end at the back left side of the X carriage secure it and cut the belt you will then use the remaining belt to do the same thing but starting at the front left side of the x-axis carriage then around the left pulley and idlers [Music] and we'll end at the back right side of the axe carriage once you get both belts installed place a second zip tie on all four ends to secure them correctly the Z and stop can be installed at any time but we will install it now so open the Z and stop mount and install it on the back left rod the final position will be adjusted later on like most hot end assemblies that we have seen this one also is sent not correctly installed so we will need to disassemble it check everything and assemble it again this way we will prevent leaks and clocks in the future we have a video explaining this in detail so we will skip this part check the video description for the link of the video explaining how to check and fix the hot end the heater wires will be connected to a screw type connector so we prefer to add Farrell's for a better and safer connection the hot end assembly is installed on the X carriage [Music] and at the backside we install the x-axis and stop use a zip tie to secure the cables the extruder comes completely disassembled so we need to get all the parts from bag labeled D first attach the motor to the motor mount the orientation of the motor will be important find a flat area of the motor shaft and use it to tighten the gears set screw [Music] [Music] get a couple of screws and tea nuts and install them in the motor mount they will be used to secure the exterior assembly on the metal profile you can install the exterior at the backside or at the left side the choice is up to you we decided to install it on the left side to insert the PTFE to remove the fitting lock insert the tube and reinstall the lock measure the necessary length of the tube and insert the other end into the hot end make sure the tube goes all the way in it's important that it reaches the nozzle there is a hole on the side and that's where you will pass the hot end wires through the heat bed wires you will pass them using the hole on the top side of the base inside you will find the extruder motor cable so pass it outside and connected get the end stop switches cables and connect them to the board the fan is located too close to the board there is not enough room to install the hot and heater wires so we need to take the fan out for a second connect the hot end sensor wires the hot and heatsink wires and the layer cooling fan wires and our printer we found that the layer cooling fan label was switched with the heat sink fan cable you can identify that because the layer cooling fan cable has two pair of wires and the heatsink one only has a pair of wires and now the hot end heater wires the fan can now be installed back in our opinion the manufacturer should choose a better place to install this pan the heat bath temperature sensor is connected to the heat bed adapter module and the heat bed wires connect to the heat bed module there is also an auto level connector that you can connect with that you can use the included pressure sensor this sensor is placed on the cold nozzle and you cannot forget to take it out after leveling the printer is delivered with the auto level feature disabled in the firmware so if you want to use it you need to enable it in the menus it's also included the filament run-out sensor the problem is that there is no sensor mount for it so it would be hanging out there and the printer is also delivered with the sensor disabled so we will not use it either rubber strips are placed at the sides they provide a good finish this spool holder is a bit small for my filament PM spools so I need to get a better solution the spool holder is installed at the side below the extruder [Music] the manufacturer also included this tubing to pass the cables inside and help with the cable management but we decided to go a different way we inserted cables in the metal profile slots and then covered them with black tape same color as the metal profiles the last bag contains defeat some versions of the sprinter do not include the bottom panel so for those defeat are secured on the metal profile with the panel the feet will also secure the panel [Music] before the first power on we need to grease the rods leadscrew and linear rails you can spread the grease with the finger or by moving the axis [Music] [Music] while greasing the rails we notice play on the side rails the problem is due to the fact that manufacturer used screws too long for this to fix the issue we can replace the stock screws with smaller ones or add washers and the assembly is now complete we just need to plug in the power cord [Music] included in the package is a small pan to use with the touchscreen with the first power on we noticed that the touch screen was not working the display was tightened against the frame and the touch screen was being pressed by the frame to fix that we had to create a gap between the display and the frame that gap was done by adding nuts between the frame and the display once we did that the touch screen works normally next we need to adjust the Z sensor and level the bed so we need to raise the z axis until the nozzle almost such as the bed then we adjust the Z sensor to a point that it gets triggered now we can execute the home sequence to level the bed we can use the level option in the menu but first we need to heat up the bath we can do this super fast by pressing the bed icon we only have three adjustment points one ended back and two at the front but we will check the four corners west center [Music] as usual we use a 0.1 millimeter thick piece of paper to level the bed [Music] [Music] [Music] time to load some filament and print a few things the provided USB flash drive was empty so we had to slice a few models we started with the test queue we printed a phase in phase mode in a skull shape in gold color filament [Music] we also tested the power resume feature and it works when turning the power back on we need to select the same file and it prompts with the message if we want to continue to print where it stopped removing the finished prints is not that easy we need to let the bed cool down first and even cold it's hard to remove the prints the print results are not bad at all the slicer profile can be improved a bit though the face printed in vase mode looks very very good [Music] [Music] Disko also turned out very very good so this printer looks very very promising and that's it you guys hope you like this video as always you can help the channel with patreon or PayPal check the video description for the links keep following us here on YouTube Facebook Instagram and Twitter we will see you guys next time bye

Channel: ruiraptor

Views: 27,123

Rating: 4.9065819 out of 5

Keywords: 3dprinter, 3dprint, 3dprinting, 3dprinted, impressao3d, impressora3d, sapphire, twotrees, 3ddrucke, 3ddruck, 3ddrucken, druck, stampa3d, stampante3d, stampanti3d, imprimante3d, impresion3d, impression3d, corexy, fdm, 3d, printer, anet, ender, prusa, tevo, creality, thingiverse, printing, impressao, impressora, 3dprints, cnc, geeetech, ultimaker, raise3d, cura, simplify3d, ideamaker, filament, pla, abs, petg

Id: k26kpsheans

Length: 34min 36sec (2076 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 15 2019