3D Print parts TWICE as fast with simple slicer tweaks. 3DP101

in this 3d printing 101 I'll show you how I printed this huge piece on my crucial mark 3 in a fraction of the time it would normally take with no changes to the hardware let's get started how's it going guys ink is here from make his muse and welcome back to another 3d printing 101 video few weeks ago I unveiled my fallout 4 inspired 3d printer build and the main aspect of that machine was it was mostly 3d printed the whole base is one single solid 3d printed part there's no joins or anything it's just one piece off the machine but the thing is with FFF slash FDM 3d printers you have a single nozzle extruding molten material so the bigger parts get they take exponentially longer time for example a cube by scaling it by 200% you're not just doubling the print time and material of that cube you're actually increasing it by roughly eight times so when you're printing something this big time and material use especially when you're prototyping is pretty important but before I jump into precious slicer to show you my custom settings let me explain to you the three main limitations we have in printing quicker that is heating cooling and rigidity of the overall 3d printers frame you see the filament has to be melted and then it has to be cooled quickly and the frame has to hold the moving components in such a way that they're actually accurate even when moving around very very quickly with high amounts of kinetic energy now most 3d printers have a zero point four millimeter nozzle and as you can imagine with for example 1.75 MB the filament going down to zero point four it creates a lot of pressure and with two point eight five millimeter filament going down to four it's even greater and that heat block has to melt the filament quickly and in a controlled manner to turn it from a solid plastic into molten plastic so it can be extruded out of the 3d printers hot end but then you need it to cool because if it comes out and then it's just molten then it's just gonna sag and your print just fall apart and that could be a significant issue in trying to print faster because you can see whole layers that haven't completely solidified and cooled as you start to build on top of them parts to start to lose all definition and it all falls apart and then finally there's rigidity you can imagine you've got a big heavy hot end moving around you move it quicker quicker quicker quicker you start to get frame resonances you start to get inaccuracies the whole thing shudders and you start to lose dimensional accuracy of your 3d printed pilot done a video on ghosting which demonstrates this very very well when you do small movements it can lead to vibrations and artifacts in the 3d printed parts surface so that's not a limitation of your print speed as well so I'm going to show you in this video is what works on my pusher mark 3 and it's transferable to any other printer but your results may vary you might be able to go way faster reliably or you might have a limitation where you can't quite go as fast my settings are quite conservative in terms of a fast draft setting but I find them to be very reliable and I had no failures when printing these parts obviously there has to be some sort of trade-off to reduce the print time on an FDM 3d printer and that would be your layer height and infill so if you have a layer height that's 0.15 for example and then you change it to 0.3 you can effectively cut your print time in half but you lose some definition it depends on the print if that will be noticeable for vertical faces and walls not really and top fields obviously no difference but for delicate sides and text small details you will start to suffer a decrease in print quality don't a whole 3d printing 101 already on layer height and nozzle size in this video here going to go check it out that should help you get a bit more information in terms of that let's just jump right into precious slice and I'll show you my custom setting which is 0.3 stupid FAST all righty then here we are in slice approach audition this is not the latest latest one it's the 1.4 1.1 beta but I tend to be a little bit hesitant to upgrading because my job is so dependent on these slices and I have been burnt in the past when people roll out updates that are full of bugs anyway not saying that's what's happened but I'm sticking with this one but it should work on any of the purchase slices and also it should work across the board in other slices just transfer the settings across and this is the part that I mentioned this is the huge base for my fallout inspired 3d printer it's massive it fills the entire bed however if I go to slice it you'll notice that once I start cutting into the print it's very light weight and if i zoom in to some areas you'll also notice that it has quite a coarse finish and that's because it's printed at 0.3 millimeter layer Heights as I mentioned 0.4 nozzles can print quite roughly you can go up to 3.3 v if you really want but point 3 seems to be a good happy medium for my speed and quality requirements and you'll notice the infill and perimeters are quite low I cut this way back because one extra line adds just that extra bit of time for each layer and obviously the less infill you have the quicker the print finishes and the less material is used this is obviously a trade off because this part isn't going to be as strong as one with more perimeters or more in film but how strong is the final print well this one I actually started hacking at it which was handy because I was testing things but I don't know that's let's try breaking this print using those settings so I'm going to grab it here I'm just gonna try to rip it in half that's the infill you can hear flexing I'm putting all my strength on it all a full angus which isn't quite equivalent a full joel now now I can't do it so that that's really strong even at those infill settings still more than capable of helping you on your prototyping but why is there such a significant difference well I think it's best to just show you my settings and how much of a difference they actually make so under print settings we have layer height 0.3 so each layer will be 0.3 the first is 0.2 which means it's nice and close I dude like I don't like doing to course layer Heights on the first layer especially on the pressure mark 3 which does the mesh bed leveling seems to work nice for me again we still have two shelves or two perimeters you might want to increase this for more strength but as you as you saw I couldn't break this it just yeah it's tough and this is where I cut a lot of time down was with the top and bottom infill which is called horizontal shells in the purchase slicer I did three top and bottom which is usually more than a few might see the infill threw it on really big areas but again this is for drafts it doesn't really matter next is infill this is where we save a lot of time as well ten percent very low but still still not too low I mean that's still reasonably there and fill pattern cubic this is what I love about Purusha slicer is joseph´s pushed a lot of time and money and R&D into developing the slicer and they've got some really cool settings and it keeps getting better but cubics one of my favorite in fills now because it's a 3d infill so it actually adds strength in all directions whereas standard rectilinear infill only adds strength in one vertical direction from the side it's basically like a giant parallelogram you can kind of crush parts whereas the cubic actually is 3d and it's strong in all directions this is probably up for debate to be honest but i've found a lot of lot of benefits in using cubic and it doesn't take that much longer to print so 10 percent cubic is my choice for my draft setting skirt and brim default obviously i have a just a single loop to help the nozzle start extruding properly and the Purusha slicer will also add in a purge just before the print starts and then support material none I designed this with no support material intentionally you can see the video on how I did that here but if you can cut support material out you will greatly reduce your print time it's a very very useful skill and you can build in your own supports if you have to have them but having supports be calculated in the slicer and put in will dramatically increase your print time so try to avoid it if at all possible for example these infill areas here which are bridges if there was support there you know yeah that's gonna add a lot of extra time to your printing no raft printed raft 'less again I try to avoid rust if at all possible but they are handy for some prints but for this don't need them and then speed this is where we Jack things up a bit perimeters 100 millimeters per second small perimeters 50 external 70 infill 250 solid infill 250 top and bottom 100 and support material hundred people don't care about that bridges 60 you don't to make riches too fast or too slow I left that pretty default and again gap fill is also default pretty much and travel is actually pretty much the same as well I haven't increased travel it seems to move quick enough between points I was a bit worried if I increase travel too much it might start vibrating the machine and possibly knocking prints loose so I left that as is you could push this further but again my goal was speed but also reliability now I don't believe I've changed anything in acceleration I don't remember anyway but I would leave these pretty much default you can increase them to speed up how quickly gets how quickly the the parameter for example gets to speed but this can also add artifacts and stuff like ghosting if you have too high acceleration and that's pretty much all I've changed but I've also put special considerations into the filament extrusion temperature so under the filament settings you notice I'm running pressure PLA and this is actually a default in the slicer for the pressure filament the pro cement now but it's a higher temperature than regular PLA you'll notice it extrudes at 210 not 185 190 200 it's quite hot for PLA but I found for these prints that the extra temperature helps to kind of get away with the highest speed because if it drops down in certain areas there's the plastic will remain molten and it's not going to start under extruding and also the higher temperature means the parts tend to be stronger they tend to have better layer adhesion and that's what I want for my my models you might get again less quality finish a less lesser quality finish but again this is for drafts and even the overhangs seem to work quite well with that temperature however if I'm just using normal PLA on my Purusha with normal settings like 0.15 and that I actually made a normal PLA setting which is just one I'm five so quite a lot cooler and that gives you a bit better definition out of PLA on the Purusha I found but for the fast prince it's not that dangerous to bump up the print temperature just don't expect supports to release easily if you do that but the proof is in the pudding and as you can see when we export our G code it gives us a time estimate out of the pressure slicer and estimates for 11 hours which was pretty much accurate so 11 hours for this full bed print which is more than strong enough for my requirements for comparison let me just show you how long it would take to print this model using the optimum 0.15 millimeter layer height default in Purusha slicer for the mark 3 this is the setting that's recommended for just across the board great prints and it is a very good setting but obviously it's within pressure researchers goals to make this setting reliable and a little bit conservative so keep that in mind the fill density is 20% not super high but pretty high 0.15 millimeter layer Heights and if we go to print settings you can see that our speeds are quite conservative 45 millimeters a second and then we've got in filler 200 that's fairly high but really not that high but the layers this is where it gets interesting it's two perimeters which is the same as my settings but horizontal shells is top seven and bottom five which gives you a lot of room to account for stuff ups in the print and recover and as you can see this is the result if I scroll down to see the layers much high infill and you can see that this curve is a lot more accurate but really does that matter I don't know it depends on your results and what you need to achieve but once you export it this is the real gotcha to get that slightly higher print quality and infill density we are now looking at one day 3 hours and 41 minutes so basically more than a day to print this and more than double then my draft setting as you can see from these close-up photos the print quality will not be the best in the world and you might start to get some sort of roughness on your top top a solid in fills and you might maybe see the infill through it but really this has been fantastic for speeding up my design and prototyping practice here at makers muse I've been able to pump parts out overnight come back test try modify and go back and it really really does help and there's no hardware changes so if you have a 3d printer with a point four nozzle and you're not game to stick a bigger nozzle on just to print faster sometimes then give this a shot and even for the final prints I'll just bump the infill up maybe add a few perimeters it works really really well and it's quite reliable you could probably push it further if you wanted to but this is something I've settled on that has been reliable and that's more important to me than going stupidly stupidly fast maybe that's you setting I should try and your results may vary your machine might be capable of much higher print speeds because of a better hot end for example or a better extruder or it might be capable of lower print speeds only because of a weaker heat cartridge or a weaker extruder setup anyway if you enjoyed this 3d printing what I want on make us miss guys please consider subscribing it is my aim to empower your creativity through technology and I would love to have you on board I look forward to seeing again very shortly catch letter guys bye

Channel: Maker's Muse

Views: 1,415,358

Rating: 4.8744502 out of 5

Keywords: 3d printing 101, 3d print faster, draft 3d printer settings, draft slicer settings, slic3r prusa edition, 3dp101, maker's muse, tutorial, guide, walkthrough, angus deveson, australia

Id: 3kW9SnK4LKc

Length: 14min 41sec (881 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 13 2018