BI-METAL HeatBreaks - What Are They & How To Install on a CREALITY ENDER 3 / Pro

hi guys have you ever heard about bi-metal heat brakes in this video we will explain what are they and how to install them on a reality ender 3. you want to know more then stay tuned hi guys welcome back my name is rui and this is the rui raptor youtube channel if you want to help us out you can by giving this video a like and subscribe the channel you can also help by joining our patreon page or by clicking on any of the affiliate links posted below in the video description so today we will talk a bit about bi-metal heat breaks and how to install them on a creality ender 3 or ender 3 pro bi-metal heat breaks can be found online by many manufacturers the ones we ordered came from triangle lab these heat breaks have two components with different thermal conductivity this dual metal combination on the heat break means that the temperature from the heat block is not transferred to the cold end of the heat break or in other words you will be able to use higher temperatures and have less heat going up the heat break cold zone the ender 3 stock heat break has ptfe lining which means that the ptfe tube goes through the heat break and all the way down to the nozzle this is good for printing pla but not ideal for temperatures above 240 degrees c because the ptfe tube will start to deform causing printing issues printing pla with these bi-metal heat breaks should be much easier and clog free when compared with normal all metal heat breaks triangle ab has two different versions one with threads only on one end and the second one with threads on both ends for the creality ender 3 and enter 3 pro we need to use the smooth version which is the one with threads only on one end ok so let's start with installation first make sure you have no filament inserted in the printer turn off the printer and remove the print head cover try to handle the cover carefully to avoid damaging the cables [Music] next remove the two screws that secure the hotend to the x-axis carriage in the heat block you have the thermistor and the heater which have very thin wires so be very careful when handling this as well then remove the two screws located at the bottom of the heat block next loosen the set screw that secures the heat break to the heat sink now you can remove the heatsink [Music] next remove the ptfe tube from the heatsink to do this you need to press the ring on top of the pneumatic fitting push the tube in just a little bit and then pull out the tube for better performance add a bit of thermal paste between the heat break and the heat sink take the new heat break and insert it in the heat sink with the smooth end facing the heat sink the smooth end of the heat break must be flushed to the heatsink take your allen key and turn the set screw a bit only to secure the heat break don't fully tighten it just yet next get a wrench and use it to hold the heat block and then turn the printer on and raise the nozzle temperature up to 180 degrees c once the nozzle reaches the set temperature carefully loosen the nozzle for safety purposes let the heat block cool down before proceeding to the next step then remove the stock heat brick [Music] and then install the new heat break make sure the nozzle is still a couple of turns loose and insert the heat break until the small end of the heat break is flushed with the heat block also make sure that the back of the heat sink is facing the back of the heat block next screw back the nozzle by hand and make sure that the nozzle does not reach the heat block just like this now insert back the two screws under the heat block and tighten them but be careful don't over tighten them [Music] and then install back the hotend on the x-axis carriage make sure the hotend is perfectly vertical next insert the ptfe tube with this new heat break the ptfe tube will not reach the nozzle but make sure you insert the necessary amount to reach the heat break then heat up the nozzle one more time you will also need to use the wrench one more time to hold the heat block but be careful not to damage the heater and the thermistor wires tighten the nozzle and also the set screw on the heat sink ok we are almost done if you have a sock for the heat block install it now and then install back the cover again handle the cover carefully to avoid damaging the wires and the installation is now complete but before you can start your first print you need to do a couple of checks first go back to the display and check if you are getting the correct temperature readings because we made changes to the hotend the nozzle to bed distance might be slightly different from what you had before so in other words you need to re-level your bed and adjust your nozzle to bad distance again so go ahead and raise the nozzle and bad temperatures when both temperatures have been reached home the printer and check your nozzle to bed distance if the nozzle is far from the bed you can adjust the position of the end stop or raise the bed if you have enough compression from the bed springs you can then re-level the bed by following our tips on how to level the bed like a pro okay you are now ready for your first prints with your new bi-metal heat break and that's it you guys hope you enjoyed this video and feel free to share your experience with this heat break in the comments section below we will see you guys next time bye

Channel: ruiraptor

Views: 42,840

Keywords: 3dprinting, impressao3d, bi-metal heatbreak, 3d print, heat break, how to change the heat break, change the heat break on a Ender 3, Creality, Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 Upgrade, impressora 3d, imprimante 3d, impression 3d, impresion 3d, 3ddruck, 3d drucker, 3d drucke, 3ddrucken, stampa3d, stamante 3d, stampanti3d, Ender 3 heat break, how to, tutorial

Id: nceUl8EsHTo

Length: 8min 8sec (488 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 20 2021