Troubleshooting a No Start, No Spark, No Fuel, No Com (any car)

hey guys scanner dander here with four of my students from rosedale technical college we are here after hours doing a no start at la tour's honor they wanted to come with me some extracurricular activities and uh we have a no start let me get you on the car 2006 lincoln ls and it is a 3.9 3.9 liter engine that's what the all right and uh we have i didn't bring all my equipment today but we do have the encore and um it's not really going to help us anyway because we have a no comm with the engine computer so no reason to get you on to the scan tool it doesn't communicate we were doing some checks off camera just for a couple of minutes and what uh james one of my students here had mentioned is we have a message that says etc uh engine fail safe mode so that's not good another thing that we noticed when we crank it the tachometer doesn't bounce we can't use the check engine light on this one because the entire cluster goes out when you crank it watch so the cool part about this car and having these guys with me is we just covered chapter 9 in class which is the 5 volt reference circuit we talked about how important it is when you have a vehicle that has a no start no communication to quickly check one of the sensors that would use a 5 volt reference and what we found is our reference voltage is low so i guess before i show you that there's a couple more observations here throttle body's been replaced uh all of the coil packs look like they're new both sides it looks like and uh we started at the fuel rail pressure sensor so um i i again apologize i didn't have the camera turned on initially but i i told my guy standing here next to me find a sensor that has the the five volt reference that you know it should be there and pressure sensors would be one of them so i'll show you this fuel rail pressure sensor this is the first reading we took look at it bouncing around 1.8 1.7 we saw two volts on this at one point in time and move over to the middle wire here in a minute but i want you to watch when i'm watch this circuit i'm pretty sure this is my reference voltage it should be five go to the middle wire on this three wire pressure sensor we should have a five volt raft signal on the ground see that one zero move to the third wire i'm reading half a volt so one thing for sure is we are low on our reference circuit on this sensor now one of the things that we talked about again off camera i should have turned the camera on right away i'm disappointed that i didn't but you didn't miss much we're concerned about our ground connection so let's go to the fuse box and just make sure that we're reading 12. and of course the battery was completely dead so we have a jump pack on it but there you go 11.7 volts so our ground is good and that means that this reading we are getting on this fuel tank pressure sensor the highest voltage reading wire which is yellow and blue or yellow and green tracer um one second is 1.8 volts i'm pretty sure that's my reference circuit all right go ahead james i'm listening uh with your battery voltage low would that be also bringing the it that should not it would not correct in fact that's a great question um the reason why they use a five volt reference is it's low enough that battery voltage fluctuations will not interfere with the sensing circuit it will pull it down it won't pull it down so if they use say like a nine volt reference like they used to you can get a weak battery and during a cranking situation it can affect the inputs to the computer and that's one of the reasons they use a five volt so yes our battery voltage is low but i'm not worried about it being low to the point it's going to interrupt my reference circuit all right our next step because i'm not 100 sure on this fuel tank pressure sensor and where the uh reference voltage is i'm pretty confident in the readings we have we have low reference voltage the next step i did is i unplugged the tps this is a four wire tps and what it uses is a a five volt raft signal two signals and a ground it shares the reference in ground and so i know that one of these four wires should absolutely have five volts on it and so i'm going to go down the line and show you guys that all right so you guys got both of these in the shot here i'm just going down the line just very quickly i'm i am front probing this connector but i'm not stuffing this pin in there i'm just touching on the terminal itself there's one volt on that wire zero on that one 2.13 on that one [Music] and 1.3 on that one so the um circuits that are one volt for you guys that have been following me for a while you'll know about the bias voltage they use on these sensor inputs there's a resistor in the computer we just talked about this too this is in chapter 7 in my book that would be one of the sensor signal wires the 1.2 and fluctuating here's the other sensor signal wire the 0.9.95 fluctuating i saw a one volt on that before this one should be my reference circuit i know that because it's the highest voltage what color is that wire and it is yellow too just like the yellow wire on the fuel tank pressure sensor this is my reference and what we'll do from this point is we'll stay here back probing and 2 volts so here's this is where uh this is where we stopped okay um so that's what you guys missed off camera is we went that far and i said initially i wasn't gonna film because we're just here learning right and i just after i saw this after going over it just literally yesterday in class i was like i said we need to turn the camera on i don't have all my heavy equipment with me but i do have this little itty bitty camera and we should be able to at least troubleshoot this so the next plan when i have low reference voltage is i want to find out why um and i think i would attack this differently as far as no reference voltage or low and i'm thinking computer powers and grounds of course and i'm also thinking a shorted sensor so i could while i'm here start unplugging sensors that i know use this reference for example the fuel tank pressure set or a fuel rail pressure sensor which sits just yeah still in the screen too i can start by unplugging this thing and i don't know that this is necessarily wouldn't that be funny if it was a shorted first sensor i grabbed and unplugged short that would be cool i don't think so but i'm going to try it make the job easier so if i unplug this guy and reference voltage still stays low like it is this is not my problem another one would be this um dpfe sensor that's part of the egr system that sits right here i'm gonna unplug that guy came up a little bit but no dice there that's not my sorted sensor one other thing you want to be aware of when you're unplugging sensors you want to shut the key off turn the key back on so i'm going to do that real quick that's key off i'm going to wait five seconds some of these computer systems have a failsafe for the reference circuit that you have to cycle the key nothing still at zero and i turned the key back on that's weird that my reference was now at zero with the wait let's watch it i told the guys off camera too you missed one more piece here and that is we have a vehicle that's not communicating not starting there's no reason to check for spark check fuel pressure none of that when you have no reference voltage that is acting very very strange let's keep watching it remember how you brought up about when you can speak i want you on i want your voice on camera do you remember when you talked about the wire when it heated up it had high resistance in it yes if you ever has that ever crossed your mind where you're watching that and that voltage slows it slowly climbs that's exactly what i'm thinking about if i see that voltage climbing i'm thinking about a a uh some type of wiring problem some type of connection corrosion for sure let's just keep watching that for a minute because we did have two volts on that we don't even get a volt that is that is weird it's slowly climbing though now there's there's multiple ways we can go here and one of the things would be helpful is knowing all of our tie-ins for our reference circuit you know which sensors are using the five volt ref which ones are not and then looking at computer powers and grounds i mean that's where we are with this car it would be nice if we could pinpoint it right off the bat that doesn't look like that's going to be the case i'm going to leave these guys unplugged no reason to plug them back in right now i already have the tps unplugged that's where we are here um i am concerned about so i am on the strut i was going to say i'm concerned about block grounds too because the the batteries in the trunk on this and so i have to consider that as well my ground for my meter is on the strut tower so i'm using body ground not block ground so this should be an accurate reading even if i did have a bad block ground but we do need to check for that too but look at this thing rising can you just keep your hand i'm gonna crank this i just don't want that moving [Music] really weird i'm just gonna wiggle my ground connection here just to be sure i'm gonna go back to the fuse box real quick again always checking my meter these are things that i tell you guys all the time check your meter check your meter check your meter you got weird readings as you're troubleshooting you should still be checking your meter that's from the fuse box it's 11.5 volts so how's my ground on my meter that's good it's good so how's my measurement here on my reference voltage it's good i'm not it's not good but it's good as far as that's an accurate reading right we have low reference voltage let's look at the wiring diagram and uh i'll figure out direction and what i want to go because i don't see any other sensors yeah it's bleeding back up slowly is it yeah because it's it's it was in the sixes now it's the sevens well the math the math sensor would also that's out of the shot let's get that in there um the mass airflow on ford's does have a reference of it uh part of it i think unplugged the math oh it just jumped up it jumped jump to two but that's still not right the plug back in point eight it should go to five not not uh two right so um i'm gonna cycle the key off and back on one more time just to see the result of that what that's suggesting to me remember each sensor is gonna have a certain amount of current draw from that regulator and the fact that it jumped up some is just you're taking current away from a circuit that's having trouble delivering is what that means to me i don't think that's an issue with the mass airflow shut the key off that voltage dropped to zero yep turn the key back on that should be immediately five nope so we're low again so all of these sensors i've unplugged so far none of them are the cause on the uh variable valve timing on this these are solenoids i don't think those are position sensors no those are the solenoids um any other reference circuit wire that i'm that i can get to from here is no and i'm not worried about the thermistors i'm not worried about the coolant sensor or intake air intake air is part of the map or mass airflow anyway because those are isolated um so i've gone as far as i can go really without a wiring diagram i need to get a diagram and and see how everything's tied together oh six lincoln can you guys see the screen okay i know there's some there's some glare on it all right by the way uh this is dan dan come over here can't see your face there's dan right there right behind me this is james over to this yes backwards yeah this is dakota it's weird the cameras yeah you know all right so engine performance three nine what i'm looking for first this would be helpful if we didn't have motorcycles running in the background all right something i didn't mention we do have that etc message on the on the dash i'm surprised it even sets that message given that the engine computer is not talking but the etc system does have reference voltages involved too um and so i i guess as a starting point we'll just kind of go down the line here and look for anything that says 5 volt ref something we talked about today guys see the signal return see signal rtn what is that that's a sensor ground okay just pointing that out to you this is where it matters ect signal uh etc sorry etc signals etc ref that's going to be a 5 volt ref circuit etc signal return is a sensor ground not worried about that there's another etc ref a bunch of grounds on the right front fender see i don't know if we're going to do this first or if we're we're going to do powers and grounds i'm not sure i just want to eyeball all of my uh reference circuits first so that's going to my electronic throttle control module um i try to throttle the control module behind the left side of the dash so that's what my accelera that has to be my accelerator pedal yeah has to be so what there's two more references in there uh let's go to the next page how many one of four make sure you're chewing that gum quietly james i cannot delete that yeah that's our there's our reference there for that this would be reference here reference here that this is the um egr one that i already have unplugged there's your fuel rail pressure sensor that i've unplugged your throttle position sensor that i have unplugged let's go down the line here so even though they're showing these guys let's be clear about this even though they're showing these as separate reference wires on the on the computer remember that most of the time is only one regulator so inside they're all sharing this there might be two because this is a etc system but that's weird they call that a dc volt circuit that's weird but ref voltage temp signal coil return injector etc motor signal knock sensors cylinder temperature i'm not worried about any of my temp sensors this is where all of this comes into play now guys all that theory we talking about those you know what can be shared what can't be shared what do you worry about what don't you worry about now we're we're in it so it looks like the only other thing on this reference circuit that we didn't unplug is the throttle actuator inside the car and the car so i mean rather than checking computer powers and grounds next uh it's real easy to do to unplug that it'd be two wires right uh according to this it's actually like one seven or eight wires because the throttle um actuator the app sensor it has two potentiometers actually it actually showed three let me go back to it the one that said left side of the dash had all those wires going to it we got some other ones i missed it here guys look these pressure transducers too um this is one again where you need to know what can be shared and what can't but this this one and this one and that says yeah reference voltage so we have an ac pressure transducer we have a fuel tank pressure transducer and we have this electronic what they're calling throttle control module which is kind of strange it's got a bunch of potentiometers in it that should be my accelerator pedal so i was wrong we have three more we have to unplug i can't get to the tank pressure sensor to unplug it but i can get to the ac pressure transducer it says left front of engine compartment we're going to unplug that guy and then unplug the etc and all of this to be clear we might be going the wrong direction it might just be a main power ground to the engine computer i'm only going in this direction because we don't know well yeah and we're not working hard right now it's not like we've done anything that was very time consuming right um so let's uh i'll leave this run why don't you be the one let's do the ac pressure pressure transducer next just a quick shot of our reference voltage while we were looking at the diagram it's still climbing and we have the mass airflow unplugged tps is unplugged uh the pressure sensor for the egr the fuel rail pressure sensor and what i wanted to do is the ac pressure transducer it said what left side did it say left side of engine department i think so i think here's her right there there's your ac accumulator turn that light on for me it's on that side yes it is good eyeball there yep how can i get down there i don't know that is it right there can i get there and i'm unplug that while i'm unplugging this will keep you focused here unplugged inside now inside let's do the accelerator pedal all right so my gas pedal is really not a gas pedal it's a playstation controller that's the connector i'm going to unplug i'll keep you focused on the multimeter still the same okay so uh we only have one sensor left and that's the one in the trunk or underneath sorry it's the one in the tank and it's not easy to get to out here in the gravel parking lot so i think we're going to shift gears here and maybe look at computer powers and grounds now you tell me do we need to worry about our thermistors dakota the engine coolant temp sensor cylinder head temperature are are um any thermistor yes they share the reference but we're not worried about them because they're isolated by that current limiting resistor inside okay all right so um i thought it was kind of interesting that when i shut the key off and turned the key back on that voltage was right yeah let's check that one more time turn that key off yep turn the key back on see initial key on it's lower and what that's suggesting potentially is a low voltage ignition feed one of my ignition feeds can you crank that for me real quick okay okay it's lower and it would because that jump pack's weak now too um but i'm only just looking for which power feed do i want to look at first or which ground i want to look at my ignition power feeds first just based on that apologize here for the potentially poor camera shots i'm doing the best i can with what we have today um i am looking for ignition power feeds so there's a there's a power right there there's a ground next to it i guess we could mark that to power here and here actually i'm not marking the ground so we're just going to go after the power feeds first signal returns a ground all right so we have two looks like two power feeds on this page irritating that's spliced there and that comes from my pcm power relay so that would be a key on circuit um instead of going to the computer and checking the computer power we can find out what else powers off of this on the power relay this is hot all the time we can look at that too but i want to know what else power is powered here so the power relay is going to um this gets energized pulls the switch power gets sent down this way it comes from the red wire which is on this 30 amp fuse right here so it would come down this way feeds these guys comes over here um but i want to check that feed and so what i'm thinking is let's follow this wire right here where it goes green red page two let's see if this makes sense to you guys green red comes up to my auxiliary junction box under the hood right front of the engine compartment that's cool so fuse six and fuse five are both powered by the power relay okay so i'm gonna go to fuse six and fuse five to see what kind of voltage i have there which will address my power relay circuit that makes sense fuse six fuse five five and six on the box they're showing here so that would be should be these two guys right here and if i have low voltage here we're we're in business yeah okay you guys missed that on the meter didn't you damn it at least you got my reaction though so going back to a 12 volt source our jump packs down to 10 volts so let's be clear about that battery voltage is weak but here we go watch this fuse 3.8 volts on the fuse 3.8 volts this is fuse 5 and 6. so what that means the reason our reference voltage is low with low voltage coming into the computer we have low voltage coming from the power relay low voltage feeding these fuses and whatever else these fuses feed solenoids relays whatever we're on the right track we can plug all of our sensors back in at this point because a shorted sensor is not our problem but the procedure that we showed everything we're going through here is is relevant you want me to bring this with you to are you checking i'm going to go back in and plug in my electronic throttle uh uh or accelerator pedal um pressure switch is better yeah we have the cooling fan still unplugged just because it was running all the time let me go plug this one back in so you guys following the thought process here yes this circuit that we're looking at this green red feeds these fuses so these fuses are low on voltage on both sides because they're coming from this it does us no good to follow the other sides of these circuits and everything it feeds and i could let you guys know we'll mark them real quick i just want to be clear that following these circuits isn't going to be fruitful at all because everything that's on here is going to be low transmission you see the transmission solenoids they'll be low voltage um cooling fan system no wonder the fan was running all the time low voltage there i'll just give you a couple here guys evap canister purge evap vent or variable valve timing solenoids those would be easy to check real quick but we don't need to i'm telling you right now they're going to be low voltage across the board we're wasting our time there where we need to spend time now is we need to spend time back at this power relay what i need to know now we do know where our problem is it's coming from this power relay but i want to check the load side of the relay so we checked the control side of the relay um by checking the fuses on the other page right that was on this wire right here i also know that our problem is on that side of the splice because this one goes down to the engine engine computer and my engine computer has low voltage too and i didn't ever even check it i know it does because our reference voltage is low so our problem could be in this leg front to that splice could be the relay itself it could also be on this side so the 30 amp fuse is where we're going to go next the battery junction box in the luggage compartment near the battery so way in the back all right so here's my thought i want to know is my problem coming from this fuse we can go back that way but i can go right to the power relay and i can check voltage here so this relay should have two power fees remember all relays need two power feeds to work so we should have 12 volt here and i know that because there's a coil and there's a ground so that has to be one of my power feeds follow that over and it goes to a diode and then comes over here which is to a fuse right that's one of the feeds for the power relay i'm not worried about the control side i know the relays latching because we have low voltage here so i'm not worried about this side but i'm just making a point when i go to this relay i should have two power feeds here's one and here's the second one and theoretically we would have we'd have a like 10 because that's what we're reading correct correct yes but remember we had on this leg of the circuit we have three volts so if i have three volts on this coming in then i know it's not a relay issue it's a feed coming into the relay so that's where we're going next we'll go to the power relay it says right front of engine compartment of course it's a forward so it's not going to be marked let me just look real quick they're numbered stupid forward is the number one so no unfortunately it's not so what i need to do is get out of here for a second or we could just go back and check that 30 amp fuse in the back i don't want to do that just yet we're we're learning things here too so i need to know where my power relay is so what we do is go to uh electrical and we go to fuses and breakers and then we want the one under the hood and we should have a picture you know why can't ford just include this in the cover i don't know but where's my power relay is the bottom left relay 14 is my power relay okay james you want to be my guy take this relay out now want to see two keep your head up right they haven't marked yeah no it doesn't matter just um what you'll have this is i don't know this is load and this is control so i should have a hot feed the load side is what i'm worried about one of these two pick your head up for a second right there 9.65 okay and that's on the load side of the wreath oh no drop my teeth in on the camera on camera too it's okay i have more yes the baco light with the magnet nice use of the save nice use of your tool so so that's my load side of that relay is hold on let me get that in the shot is 9.6 volts that's that's full battery voltage our jump packs getting weak um go to the can the control side anyway we should have another nine i'm okay that that's a little bit lower voltage 8.4 on that one all right so how is my 30 amp fuse up to the relay good it's good in fact what this looks like is a faulty potentially a faulty relay so it could be the feed coming in and now here's the bad part about what we're doing this is a non-loaded circuit here i'm going to show you another tool you're going to want to buy from aes wave here in a second james has been buying some tools um here i'm just going to go grab it okay so what i want to do the reason i brought this kit out i want to do loaded circuit tests on this relay okay so what we're gonna do is we're going to take this hold this one or no this one right yes so let me see the plug end of that so everybody else can see it yep that's going to plug in where the relay goes go ahead and do that good and then that plugs into the tool and let's be clear about this the way it's designed you can only plug it in one way can't get it wrong it already has load and control already configured okay and then what this tool gives us is the ability to check control side and can check and check load side of the relay with it with it loaded so what i want to do is um now i'm sorry let's be clear uh the relay is not in the picture anymore this box is now my relay so if i hit on the fact that everything just came to life when i hit on tells me pretty much my relay was the problem honestly this car should start right now did you hear that yeah let me turn it off turn it back on okay did you hear that all right but what i want to do first i'm pretty sure the car is going to start we have a bad relay i just want to check my voltage levels unplug that alligator clip from the end of that the whole piece yeah and then plug it in straight into this on the top my lead's seen better days but so this would be my load side see i'm reading zero volts um that's my let's be clear this are both load side pins go to the red one the red one should be hot yup all right so what i was concerned about coming up to this is yeah we got nine volts up here or battery voltage up here from that 30 amp fuse in the back is it possible we have a voltage drop on that circuit because we're unloaded could we have a fuse problem in the back wiring up to here that is only going to show itself once the circuit's loaded that's why i wanted to use this tool because what this allows me to do for that 30 amp fuse is to flip the switch and load that circuit how is my circuit from the back up to here it's good it's good so that's why i brought this tool out that does that make sense yes just because we had nine volts up here battery voltage up here i know again for any any of you tuning in late our battery voltage is low we have a jump pack on here that's about dead this is battery voltage and when you unplug a relay if you just go over here and you check your load side which one was it this one the bottom yes if you check this load side feed with the relay removed it's not loaded and so that's not an accurate reading and the reason i plugged this tool in is i wanted to check that load side feed while it was active and that's what we're doing with the top of this is i'm on the load side feet of that relay and now when i turn the switch on i'm now loading that circuit and that is a good feed we do have some voltage drop but we have other circuits that are active and the battery's weak this is good all right okay so now go on the green side of this this is my switched side of the load and then we can flip the switch on and this is basically the relay now and there you go right we have 8.6 volts that's the feed out that means we should have 8.6 volts now on our fuses again this is misleading for someone jumping in here because you're saying oh you're that's bad well remember my jump pack's weak hand me that t-pin is with our our tool put my alligator clip back on there uh if we went firing grounds on computer we would have been chasing the wrong way well we would we would have come back to this because what we would have found if we would have went to the computer we would have found low voltage on that one wire at the computer i'll show you again on the diagram let's make just i want you guys to see that this isn't going to be 3 volts anymore this is gonna be eight so i'm touching the fuse there it is right there this car is gonna start actually it probably won't because our jump pack's so weak right now right now can we come can we come back here and test five holes yeah while we're at eight volts here absolutely before we even start this car up let's do that just um go ahead and go to the top of the fuel tank pressure sensor that yellow wire i'm sorry fuel rail pressure that was the first one we went after and you will see five here now dan i i if i was a betting man i'd be putting a million dollars on it that we'll see five votes here you want the money now or later so no but think about this i mean how hard did we work how much stuff did we apply that we talked about this week a lot right a lot i know i wish i could i wish i could convince people to you know in in our particular class and really across the world pay attention to me when i'm talking i'm not feeding you bullsh you know i'm going to try to crank it i don't think there's enough voltage for this car to start no jump packs completely dead so i'll shut this key off we'll get a battery charger on this i want you guys to come over to the wiring diagram real quick to be clear a relay is bad it's the switched side of the relay the latched side of the relay it's bad it's got a bad contact in it for for those of you that think that because a relay clicks that the relay is good um we learned something here today didn't we right that relay can click all at once and not be good because the load side contacts can be burnt that's what we have wrong with this vehicle load side contacts are burnt we have a voltage drop that's occurring at the switch itself we proved it with our tool that the relay is faulty all right back to the diagram real quick because i want to be clear for what you said james if we would have gone to computer powers and grounds we would have been chasing our tail not necessarily it would have taken us a little bit longer to get to where we were going but you would have found it because this wire we have low voltage on remember we traced over to the other page where we checked those two fuses yeah we're low voltage there and i said i know the computer has low voltage too because that wire this splice right here goes down to the computer let's look at it just to make sure that you guys are all with me here when we would go to the computer and check all of our main powers and grounds we would be checking right there what would we have found at the computer low reference voltage we would have found three volts going into the computer at those two locations that voltage is low you would have backed up from there and said okay it comes from the power relay and we would have ended up back at the power relay if we went to the computer first does that make sense yeah so we would have been not necessarily chasing our tails but it would have taken us a little longer and what i was trying to do the reason i went after the fuses instead of the computer is i know that it was easier to check the fuses first than it was to go to the computer and identify those pins number one find the computer number two get to the location of it and number three find those pins and do those measurements we would still be doing that okay does that make sense that makes sense okay as far as this circuit goes let's let's be clear the load side coming into this relay which is here and here it comes from this 30 amp fuse um are you guys comfortable with what i was saying about unplugging this relay and then measuring voltage here on this feed coming in is not a good test it's not a good test because it's not loaded as soon as you take the relay out of the picture it's an unloaded circuit and the reason that we plugged our tool in is it allowed us to monitor this circuit wow the switch was closed that's just like a light bulb essentially it's it mean you don't want to take a light bulb out to check a circuit is that what you mean by that like if you the same thing if you pull the light bulb out and check voltage there's no load no load you need a load we need the circuit complete when we do any voltage measurements ever okay so when we pulled the tool we pulled the relay out we put the tool in which allowed me to manually close it which was taking the red wire and jumping it to the yellow wire that's what it was doing and that allowed me to do a loaded circuit voltage drop test that said our red wire coming from the fuse in the back was fine it was fine that makes sense unplugged test you can't do that guys you cannot unplug a relay and check voltage and think that that's good especially in this particular situation all right so next step let's get a dump pack that has some juice to it actually i have one i have one i have i don't know that we need anything else with the diagram or can i turn this desktop recording off are you sure no other questions on the diagram nope anything with the reference voltage nothing we good yeah we're good you should think the music in with your uh your video dinner oh we get some old school white snake and then what an air hammer i don't think it gets any worse so hey for those of you that have been following i don't like to do tool reviews and i did get a lot of hell for this noco one so this this company oh my goodness this perfect timing this company sent me this and i did a tool review and you know this tool has been pretty sweet i'm going to use this to dump this car so they claim 2 000 amps with this little guy and there's a lot of people in the internet that think it's a big piece of crap and it'll never produce 2 000 amps i never cared i don't care what it produces does it work does it start the car it has every time good hit the power button hold it in good that's it we should be ready to go you can set that down [Music] what what it's still a no start wait let me make sure i got five here hold on the other thing too is with all of our low reference voltage stuff is we may have a bunch of codes that we need to clear yeah so we have five volts we're good there turn the key off and wait five seconds and then try it now we have no start is it because of your tool oh yeah no i have it no i have it installed our five volt ref is there we're good see we got no we're good with that it should start um but remember someone's been in here and changed all kinds of stuff let's clear those faults out of there i don't think that that the fault codes are gonna uh i don't even care about reading them i want to reset it there was a theft code in there was there yeah that detected engine disabled okay well that's going to keep it from starting right but let's clear that code and then re-read them again let's make sure that that code is gone clear it again let me do a key on engine off what is it them again they should be gone that code is immediately coming back so this car is not going to start hand me that key this key fob does not work either i don't think does it no good try turn the key back on again yeah we might need another key for this possibly all right hold on go ahead and clear that so what i don't know here is that actually clearing code so here's what i'm gonna do dan you can come out here so you can see what's going on i'm gonna forcefully i'm gonna intentionally set a code on the tps yep um wait let's read it first let's see if it flags that code yeah go ahead read i want to see a throttle position sensor air fault we might have to crank it for it to set it okay sweet all right so we have tps codes that i just set go ahead and clear them and what this will mean is we have a hard fault for the anti-theft system that makes sense yep so this car is not going to start with an anti-theft code throttle actuator control force limit okay turn the key off and wait five seconds because i did kind of do that with the key on wait five then turn the key back on key on [Music] that code should be gone all throttle control codes should be gone why is it not um can you crank that for me again dan let me clear it not yet okay let off uh turn the key off [Music] all the way off it all it's all the way off i want to wait till that stops humming at me oh you know what else you know what else i have this power relay circuit jumpered that might be interfering with my anti-theft system let's swap the relay with another relay do you know which one shoot i need to know what these other relays are otherwise i don't have that page open you just have another relay layer if i have another relay we can use it here we go i got one you don't want to know what the other ones are no i got one what i what i wasn't considering here guys is with my jumper in here since we're powering the circuit all the time not ignition related it was all the time that could have been interfering with this anti-theft system and the throttle actuator control and why the code wouldn't go away let's do this let's make sure i have five volts um when you turn the key on that'll tell me that this relay is good okay good i got five volts so we did put a good relay in there let's see if we can clear these codes out of here now yeah i'll try it now try it it should start it is missing like crazy but the thing is someone was in here and did all kind of stuff right all kind of stuff probably when they put all new coils on it i don't know why they put all new coils on it but let's be clear about this so how do we get behind me here because we're done with this video how do you sell a job like this what do you do the car came in it was a no start we did everything we needed to do it needs a new power relay how much time you charge for something like this probably just an hour an hour diagnostic time we're done but some people are going to say well the car's got a misfire you need to look at that no i don't you mr customer need to pay me to look at that because i did the no start diagnosis right i got my hour i paid my i paid my dues right um uh that's not the word i was looking for but i guess that works um the car runs now it has a running problem completely separate so for us we're done this video at least five volt reference circuit was key and i appreciate having you guys with me man uh especially because we just went over this and that made it pretty damn cool james you like to have your head cut off and that's all good there's james we just went over this and we got to apply it and i got to show some of my guys again a little plug for rosedale technical college that's where i teach these guys are from rosedale tech we're here after hours after school hours these guys wanted to come with me because they want to learn guys thanks for joining us i hope you guys learned something from this too 5-volt reference circuit is key all right some bonus material we got ignition coil g circuit malfunction so let's be clear about this lettering here this is a ford so typically fords will go one uh cylinder one would be passenger side typically so it'd be one two three four which would be a b c d okay five six seven eighths on this side which would be e f and g so g is this one right here and that's not plugged in all the way is it is that coil plugged in all the way no no no all right and now the reason it didn't stop misfiring is that cylinder is going to be wet with fuel and what we should have now is nice here almost better just started idling yep so okay i'll get hell from that from some people like oh you should have done that no i i shouldn't have done that even that by itself guys i want paid for that right i know that took me two minutes to find out but i also have a in this particular case it's a 1300 scan tool that i use to get the code for that okay we can argue on ethics here and how you would build this i'm telling you if this car came into me the way it was i would do nothing else we did a no start diagnosis yeah we're leaking coolant pretty bad here too where is that coming from is that cracked i think for the new one there too just be careful yeah that looks cracked i don't know if it's cracker coming out of the cap okay well other things but the car runs and the misfire is gone remember that lettering of the existing coil so a nice little lesson there for you guys too yeah all right so i i knew james would be asking me questions about the tool one of the things we didn't cover in the video is we can also do uh control circuit testing with this and the led actually likes telling you to have a power and a ground did you notice when i had this plugged in that that light was lit that told you that we had uh control circuit power and ground and then the other nice thing is this amp clamp that's for your amp clamp for the load side of the circuit so we can do current measurements here so you can unplug a fuel pump relay and put your amp clamp around here and then you can do yeah your control circuit voltage tests can be done here just like we did our load circuit voltage tests up here and then one final piece we're gonna pull this relay apart i know you guys want to see this burnt contact because i did i don't care if i ruined the relay this is a bad relay anyway [Music] and if it's not a bad relay then we have a bad contact up there see if we can show this this is my load side you just stay still james and you bend this out of the way [Music] there's your i it doesn't look as burnt as i thought but there would be that black spot right there and then that black spot right there i would have thought that'd be a lot worse than that [Music] but that's it man poor contact in those two locations i need to just double check this real quick right here the car's gonna shut off but yeah i know those pins are fine they're perfectly fine so that that's it just that little black spot just enough just enough here and here crazy crazy okay start that back up hopefully our battery voltage is high enough sweet anything else are we done are we done for real i think we're done okay cool

Channel: ScannerDanner

Views: 938,954

Keywords: engine performance diagnostics, technician training, auto technician training, rosedale tech, auto repair, ASE L1, how-to, DIY auto repair, No start, no spark, no injector pulse, no fuel pressure, no communication, scan tool, 5 volt reference, low voltage, relay test, how to

Id: lx1dqoxiZ7Q

Length: 52min 8sec (3128 seconds)

Published: Wed Sep 13 2017