Cheap Fix! Crank no start.

[Music] foreign welcome back to a new episode of diagnose Dan today we are working on a 2017 uh Suzuki Swift and this car came into the shop or was thrown into the shop as a crank no start so let's see if we can diagnose this one together okay [Music] now as always let's start out by confirming the customer complain now I was wondering in my country this little shitty car is called a Suzuki Swift I'm curious do they call it the same in your country or do you even have this model or see this model anyway in The Next Step I'm gonna crank the car over and let's see if it fires up okay foreign [Music] as you've seen the customer was definitely not lying this was or is a crank no start now in The Next Step Let's scan the car for fault codes and let's see if there are any fault codes stored that can help us diagnose this crank no start now I scanned the entire vehicle for fault codes and there are quite a few stored now also hooked up a battery maintainer because the ignition is on right now and we probably need to do some further testing and this way we don't have to worry about battery voltage now as I said quite a few fault codes stored let's go to the ECM engine control module and we've got two fault codes stored one for a brake switch and one for fan control circuit now I really doubt those are causing our crank no start in the ABS we've got a fault code for loss communication with ECM now we just read the fault codes for the ECM so we now know it's communicating right now and it says it's a history code so let's keep that in mind BCM again lost communication with ECM and a transponder communication error now that would definitely cause a crank no start although it does say it's a history code ppms not really interesting power steering not really interesting this rent cluster not really interesting right now for a crank no start now I just told you that the two fault codes in the engine control module we've got a fault code for brake switch and a fan control circuit I just told you that those couldn't cause a crank no start and I really do think they can't but we need to be careful with this because I recently saw a video from Ivan from Pine Hall auto diagnostics and he was working on a car where a knock sensor on the engine was causing the transmission to go into limp mode so we need to keep in mind that sometimes Engineers work in mysterious ways now most of the fault codes that are stored in this vehicle are history codes and that means those fault codes aren't active right now so we don't really know if default codes that come up are causing our issue right now so the crank no start so what I did is I stored the vehicle Report so I can always go back and reread the fault codes on this vehicle but right now we're going to clear default codes I'm going to crank the car over again see what comes back and go from there so all the fault codes are cleared so let's try to start the car again there we go and let's try again and one more time [Music] and let's see what fault codes came back so I cleared all the fault codes and I tried to start the car again a few times and I rescanned the vehicle but right now there are no fault codes stored so we got a crank no start without any fault codes so I guess it's time for some old-fashioned detective work now one of the first things I want to check is if the engine is getting its engine speed signal so we can do this in two ways we can check that with the scan tool but we can also look at the tachometer Tech the ref counter so I'm going to start the car right now and let's see if the ref counter moves and it does and let's take a look at the scan tool and we can definitely see the engine is receiving a speed signal now before we start over complicating things and dive too deep into this case I want to make sure we're not missing one of the basics so first thing we're going to do is check for spark I removed one of the coils I grounded the spark plug so I'm going to crank the car over while you guys watch for spark so let's crank the engine over now I can't really see the spark plug from here so either you guys need to scream really loud what's happening or I might need to review the footage [Music] now from inside the car I couldn't really see that spark plug so I refilled the footage and it looks like we've got spark now when we were cranking the engine over it sounded nice and even so I don't really think we have a compression problem right now so the next thing we need to check for is to see if this engine is getting any fuel now we're going to cheat a little bit what I'm going to do is I'm going to introduce some alternative fuel into the intake and I'm going to crank the car over and see if it runs now let's crank it over and let's see if this car is going to run oh actually it runs nice I wonder if we did we fix it oh no we didn't we just introduced some fuel so it looks like this car no it doesn't look like this car is not getting any fuel now we still don't know why maybe the injectors aren't firing maybe we got no fuel pressure um do we even have fuel if the tank is empty I'm not gonna air this video oh we've got a full tank but that would be stupid right but um yeah I think the obvious thing we need to do right now is measure the fuel pressure first now this is the fuel line that comes from the tank and normally it goes directly on the fuel rail right there now I hooked up a pressure sensor to that fuel line as you can see and hooked up the pressure sensor to my Universal pressure tester now I'm going to crank the car over and see if we get any fuel pressure let's see and it looks like no we definitely don't have any fuel pressure now since we got no fuel pressure I thought the easiest way to start our checks is right at the fuel pump itself so I put the car off the ground on the lift and we're underneath the car right now but I don't see a fuel pump so probably the fuel pump is inside this tank so hopefully there is a hatch underneath the rear seat so we can get access to that fuel pump because if we do have a bad fuel pump and there's no hatch we might need to drop the tank I quickly removed the rear seat but as you can see no hatch so that's a bummer if we want to get access to the pump we really need to drop the tank now I did see a connector right here and maybe that goes to the tank now let's take a look at a wiring diagram and find out what wires actually run through the fuel pump and how that fuel pump is controlled now this is M12 which is our fuel pump and that gets his ground on this black wire through a common ground over here and it gets his power through this pink wire now I definitely think I saw a pink wire in that connector underneath the back seat and that comes from the fuel pump relay and that gets its power from another relay the engine control relay and the fuel pump relay is being controlled through a red and yellow wire from the engine control module now let's start out by measuring if we're getting any power to the fuel pump underneath the back seat on this pink wire now this is the pink wire and the connector that I think feeds the fuel pump you can see how this wiring loom go through here to the top of the tank underneath the back seat now a gently back probe that pink wire and hooked up my test light to the pink wire and I hooked up the other side of my test light to a ground point now in The Next Step I'm going to crank the car over and if this fuel pump is getting any power that test light should light up I'm going to crank the car over and you guys keep an eye on the test light which should light up right now and as you can see our test light does not light up so our fuel pump is not getting any power now what I did is I hooked up my Power Probe to that pink wire and what I'm going to do I'm going to manually provide the pump with a power source now I set the fuse inside this Power Probe to 20 amps and let's provide it with a power right now and I don't know if you guys can hear that let me get a little bit closer but I could actually hear the pump run now it takes a nearly perfect four and a half amps now I still have my pressure tester hooked up to the fuel line so let's take a look at that fuel pressure and as you can see our fuel pressure is at a nearly perfect let's say three and a half bars now I reconnected the fuel line now let's power up the pump again there we go and see engine actually fires up there we go Moment of Truth and the engine starts right up now when we took a look at the wiring diagram we saw that the pink wire the power feed to the pump was being controlled by the fuel pump relay not a fuel pump relay is inside this fuse box right here next to the battery now it's kind of hard to access because this beam is in the way but it's only being held down by four bolts so let's remove it to make our life a little bit more easy now let's remove the relay and quickly see what is going on now as you can see we've got a four pin relay now four pin relay needs two power sources one for the control side and one for the load side now that's very easy to check with a test light so that's one power and that's another so the powers check out now one of the other pins is to power up the fuel pump and the other one is the relay control wire so the next step let's check if the relay is being controlled now I got the test light hooked up to the pin that controls the relay the relay is groundside Switched so hooked up one side of the test light to battery positive and by the way I didn't shove my test light into there I'm just barely touching the pin now when we crank the car that Tesla should light up if it does the relay is being controlled now let's start the car now let's crank it over and as you can see the test light lights up standard relay is being switched on foreign is check three out of four wires go into the relay both powers are fine the control wire also seems to be just fine the only wire we didn't check is the pink wire going to the fuel pump which obviously still could be broken but before we go down that path we also might have something simple like a broken relay so I brought out my relay tester and what this will do is it will switch on the relay 10 times and it will look for continuity now this tool isn't perfect for instance it doesn't load the relay but it gives us a fairly good idea of the state of our relay now this tester will test most four and five pin Automotive relays so let's set it to four pins let's insert the relay and when I hit test it will open and close the relay 10 times it will look for continuity and when the relay is okay the green LED will light up and when it's a bad relay a red LED will light up so let's hit test and although we hit it switch a red LED lights up indicating we've got a bad relay now the original relay is a Denso relay but the ones we got on stock in our shop are boss relay but it's exactly the same style relay now let's put it in the relay tester and see what happens when we test a brand new relay and as you can see this time the green LED lights up indicating we've got a good relay now let's install the new relay and hopefully this will fix the car and if it does I think we will have a happy Customer because I think you'll agree fixing crank no start with the part under 10 euros is not something the customer is likely to complain about now let's start up the car and hopefully fingers crossed the engine will start right up and it does let's wrap it up oh yeah fixed with only a relay that's not a bad outcome at all I think the customer will be very very happy a crank no start caused by a tiny relay now this proves that diagnosing car isn't always high tech complex or expensive sometimes it's something as basic as a little relay now I really hope you enjoyed this video I did but if you did please subscribe to my channel and when you hit the little bell you will get a notification each time I upload a new video and remember diagnose then fix it again see you next time guys when we try to start the car this test light shoot up shoot up yeah it shoot up do fault code stored one for a boy Brit [Music]

Channel: DiagnoseDan

Views: 197,047

Keywords: crank no start, topdon, fix, car repair, diagnostics, tools, Suzuki, car, garage, workshop, snapon, relay, south main auto, die autodoktoren, scotty kilmer, cheap fix, scannerdanner, pine holow auto diagnostics, electronics, scantool

Id: Z3V80SojY_M

Length: 17min 37sec (1057 seconds)

Published: Tue May 16 2023