Toyota 2.4L Oil Consumption Repair Follow-up

[Music] [Music] all right little guy you better go back outside before you get trapped in here it's a toad by the way hey guys welcome back behind me is the 2007 Toyota rav4 this is the one that we did the piston and ring replacement on it's a 2.4 liter to a Z and at the time that we were repaired the engine it was burning about a quart of oil and 400 miles and this is a follow up video we're gonna find out if it's really fixed and I'll let the cat out of the bag is say I'm pretty sure it is okay let's get started so when the engine came out the car had I think it had two hundred and four thousand five hundred miles on it and I just looked at the odometer it's just over two hundred and eleven thousand miles right now so it's past its normal oil change interval I've just been super crazy busy trying to move my shop and everything and I haven't gotten it done so we're here today to change the oil but I thought we'd take a look so that's the coolant level right there on the expansion tank and I have not added any coolant to this engine since I put it together so I did replace the coolant with the factory Toyota extended life coolant and it's right on the low mark which the engines cold so that ought to be just fine so there's the oil level right there hopefully you guys can see it it's about I don't know a fourth of the way above the add mark so the engine has used a little bit of oil but it's been about 6,500 miles since I I put the oil in and these are brand new engine parts so I don't think that's anything to be worried about like I said before it was going through a quart of oil in 400 miles so we're talking what two-thirds of a quart three-quarters of a court in 6,500 miles I think that's just fine now I'll just drain the oil real quick but there's the drain plug nice and clean no metal and the oil pan everything's nice and dry so we're looking really good all right I got a new genuine Toyota oil filter and I also have a new ceiling washer for the oil drain plug now the flat rate master if you guys ever watch him he did a video not terribly long ago about how he always uses the OEM filter and how he always replaces the ceiling washer on the oil drain plug so I can't really fault his logic on that you know he typically knows what he's talking about but personally I think it's a little bit overkill to always mandate that you use the OEM filter there's a lot of really good aftermarket or I felt there's just remember that you get what you pay for and in fact I use a lot of the Napa cold oil filters and in a lot of cases they're much more expensive than the OEM filter for example on the Power Stroke diesel engines a lot of usually the OEM filters are like half the price of a napa gold filter but I think they work better especially on the 7/3 power strips the sealing ring is a lot better on the the Napa filter than it is on the motor craft and then as far as the sealing ring goes I know for sure the copper ones really aren't supposed to be used multiple times but everybody does it my personal feeling is that if you look at the oil pan and you see a big you know wet spot where it's been leaking then it's a good idea to replace it but if everything looks nice and nice and tight and dry then you're probably okay just to reuse it but that's my personal opinion so if you guys watch the flat rate master and I think you should he's got some good content one of the things he really preaches on his channel is developing good habits and I think he's absolutely right you know a lot of work for mechanics is repetitive type work so if you develop good habits early on it becomes basically just a reflex action and you know you're less likely to screw things up especially like oil changes get so monotonous and boring and tedious that your brain just Tunes out so good habits will keep your autopilot pointed in the right direction so anyway oil filters got a little plastic thing on it make sure you get rid of that and you do not these these toyota filters come with a little bit of grease on them so you don't need to you know smear oil on it you can if you want and then it's always a good idea to look up at the filter housing right here the filter base and make sure that there's not an o-ring already stuck to it if you double stack those o-rings it's gonna leak for sure [Applause] and again every manufacturer has their own guide line as far as tightness for the oil filter some guys like to tighten them till they touch and then go another half turn or quarter turn or three-quarters of a turn or something even have a torque spec personally I just tighten them as tight as I can tighten them by hand and that's pretty tight so there we go so the same basic rule for the drain plug make sure you're not double stacked so you see right here's the old ceiling washer is actually stuck to the pan so that would have made a real bad day for us if we double stacked the ceiling washers and it's never going to stop dripping so just wait till it slows down put the plug back in and then something else that you really need to get into a habit of when it comes to oil drain plugs of any kind there's only two options it's either completely out or it's in and it's tightened you don't ever want to put a drain plug in loose because visually you cannot tell that it hasn't been tightened down and what happens is you fill the car up with oil and everything looks good and then you know thousand miles down the road this thing rattles loose and pretty soon you lose all your oil and you lose your engine so it's either out or it's in and it's tight yeah looks like this front covers come loose I replaced a bunch of these little plastic clips and I guess the ones that I these aftermarket ones that I installed were not nearly as good as the original Toyota ones didn't even make 5,000 miles look I got some spares see if we can well the front of the vehicle looks pretty good but we've got some serious problems here at the back so this is the rear differential that's the prop shaft coming back check out this u joint that's not good yeah it makes a heck of a racket going down the road I'm sure so yeah we're got to replace that I can't do it tonight it's already I think it's like 9:30 at night so I think what I'll do I'll just take this prop shaft completely out and she can drive it as a front-wheel drive car for a while until we can get parts so the next problem is this is the rear sway bar check out this sway bar link I don't think you're supposed to be able to do that and it's actually broken on both sides a whole sway bars just free to go wherever at once so we need to sway bar links well I'd say all the tires need to be replaced but this one is completely spanked I don't know what's going on wheel bearings good there's no play in the suspension but it's just a crazy wear pattern it's clear through that primary layer of rubber here that's gonna be down with the chords pretty quick so I don't know the rest of them I think we'll make it for a little while a couple weeks till we can get some new tires on but this one's getting replaced luckily these RAF have a full-size spare so I'll just throw the spare tire on it for now but ya know she's getting some new tires I'd say all right if you guys have the maintenance required light right here I'll show you how to reset that it's super super easy on these Toyota's so what you want to do is toggle to trip a on the display and then shut the key off now hold the button down turn the key on you'll see those dashes and it should count down to zero and then you can let go and we start the car out voila no maintenance light all right guys the old Toyota she lives to fight another day got the oil changed and we gave it a once-over everything we've done with the engine has been totally successful it's really not using you know any oil to speak of and everything around is good nice and dry but we do have a little bit of work to do so I'll probably bring you guys back when I get a u-joint and a couple of sway bar links and I can show you guys how I do that kind of stuff everything else looks okay brakes are good wheel bearings are good it definitely needs struts and shocks but I don't know if we'll get to that in the next video or not okay I've had a number of people asked me exactly what the part numbers were that I bought and what the prices were that I paid so here it is the top line that's the kit that has all the rings and gaskets and everything that you need and then these are the Pistons I have seized and bees I did not have ace then I bought coolant the FI PG silicone stuff a filter and four spark plugs this down here this that's an oil fill cap that I ordered you wouldn't need that and then this bottom line is the one head bolt that I replaced so I have a wholesale account with this dealership so what I pay is what it says over here under net if you walk in and just try to purchase these over the counter most likely you're gonna pay this something close to this list price I don't know if they're pricing is national or if it varies by the dealership this is what I paid at my local dealership anyway these are the numbers that I had I don't know that at this time if there's been a revision to any of these part numbers but these were good part numbers as of this date so I hope that's helpful to you guys [Music] [Music] okay guys that's it thanks for watching I'm going to bed

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 57,759

Rating: 4.9521675 out of 5

Keywords: toyota, rav4, 2.4l, 2az, 2az-fe, oil burning, oil consumption, warranty, repair, mechanic, pistons, rings, replace, engine, follow-up, u-joint, sway bar, swaybar links, oil, oil filter, oil change, service

Id: sPCoCBWWxZ0

Length: 12min 40sec (760 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 13 2019