Toolchest build part 1: the carcass

well leather this is a tool chest I started building back in my old workshop it got interrupted when I moved here and well it's been standing waiting for attention I've noticed more and more things I don't like about it and the construction the proportions so I decided to start over in this video I'm making the new carcass so I was thinking about how to get the width that I need out of this piece it's a very nice wide piece of beach but the live edges are not what I'm looking for in this project so I need to cut them off and if I would just rip away all the live edge here and make a parallel line here I don't have of the 28 centimeters that I need I'm just short one and a half centimeters or so but what I realized is these ports are heavily coached and I can use that by the time I planed it flat on both sides I will be down to these lines and look at what happens on the corner if I would rip this board to remove all the live edge I would cut it right there this bit of material will get planed away anyway so it doesn't matter if there's some live at he left there so by instead ripping it out here I can make the board about six or seven millimeters wider on each side and that should give me the 28 centimeters but I need [Music] here's a quick mock-up of how the main parts of the carcass cut together the grain flows horizontally throughout the whole carcass which means I can put in this front stretcher with dovetails at the corners and also the entire back corners will be dovetailed so that should make for a strong construction my hope in here there will be a plywood base at this height and there will be a lid here with hinges at the back this part is the drawer fronts so I will cut them out consecutively from single board so the grain will flow from one front to the next and in between the drawers there will be thin dividers I wasn't able to get all the components I need out of the one board I had so for the back I'm going to use a different board of beach-going it up like so it's not a good color match but it's for the back it'll do okay so here it is again with the back panel temporarily in place I didn't clean up the scrub plane marks all the way down down here it will all be hidden behind the drawers so you'll never see that up here it will be visible in the top compartment so here it's all smooth and yeah now it's time to make grooves for the drawer runners in the side pieces with the groups cut I can now start laying out some joinery the reason why I wanted to plow the grooves before laying out to the joinery is I need to make sure there is a dovetail covering the end of every group so here's a dry fit with the upper floor in place I think I'm ready to glue this up now hopefully I'm not forgetting anything that needs to be done before that yeah let's do it okay I got my parts laid out my clamps prepared I'm ready to go I'm going to try polyurethane glue for this job it has a slightly longer open time which I think will be good and since it's not water-based it shouldn't make the wood swell and tighten up the joint like normal wood glue does I am using gloves because this stuff is not nice little stick to spread it with instead of using my finger I don't want to get this on my skin at all right I'm a bit nervous because this is a lot of dovetails but let's go that was so nice I just slid in place health hazards society this glue is quite a step up from water-based yes but then it is also like twice the price I sure wish I had bought six of these clamps instead of five but oh well I'm just going to put some of these across the corners as well because I have read that polyurethane glue can expand a bit as it dries so I just want to clamp that to keep it from cracking that was one of the smoothest sticky laps I've ever done but while it's drying I'm going to start preparing stock for the drawer runners and drawer guides I'll be using birch for that I'll just remove this fabric material and start laying out some components all right the case is glued up the joints are playing flush collecting gaps from the groove have been plugged and I have a pile of sticks also the cut-offs from those sticks well be the drawer parts more on that later the idea here is to make four frames that will slide into these grooves that I made in the sides the frames will have a front of beach and sides and the back from birch and also runners in the middle or at the thirds for the frames that will support two or three doors side by side does that make sense I think so [Applause] all right so I got the three frames built there's a fourth one scaling clamps and while that's drying I'm going to once again take this little plane and make grooves along the runners so I can install pieces like this to be the vertical dividers there will be two on the top frame one on the second one on the side and none on the fourth I'm just going to eyeball the center of this runner because the drawers will be made to fit so it doesn't actually matter if it's exactly perfect it just has to look right I'm very close to ready to glue this up the last step will be to pre finish the inside with a bit of beeswax I'm hoping it will both work as a lubricant for the drawers and make it easy to remove the squeeze out from the next loop of course we have to be very careful not to get wax into the grooves where the new will be and the glue up time and once again going to be using the polyurethane glue and finally I can wax uninstall the vertical dividers and with that the carcass is done and that's where I'm gonna call it for this video so next time I'm going to make the drawers lid and put on finish so it'll be done in the next part is two-part build hope to see you there thanks for watching

Channel: Gillis Björk

Views: 57,122

Rating: 4.9084249 out of 5

Keywords: woodworking, handtools, reclaimedwood, joinery

Id: cnZYVOtl1yM

Length: 29min 28sec (1768 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 24 2020