TIG Welding For Beginners | 3 Proper Steps Every TIG Welder Should Know !

hello everyone and welcome to the X3M TIG  channel in today's video I'm going to show you how   to do uh some basic stuff, especially for beginners  on an 8-inch sch. 40. it's a 316 stainless   we're going to do a joint fit up uh hi-low or  alignment and then we're going to do root and hot   so for this joint, I'm using the pipe  clamp with the galvanized bottom so you   don't want to touch any you don't want to  put any carbon on that stainless uh I got   both bevel edges it's a feather  edge that's what I like to do for uh for my tig   you can put 16 lands a little bit just  in case to prevent any undercuts inside as you can see feather edge okay now we're   going to close that pipe together  I'm going to put the 5/32 gap rod I'm going to use a hi-low  gauge it's a really good tool   and you can see on the side right  now we got a five mil difference   so you want to zero that you don't want  any difference you want a high low   on all four sides 12, 3,9, and six, or even if  you got like the oval shape you want to split   the difference if you got like mil and a half  or two mil difference you want to put like mil   everywhere I don't want to go over  meal mill and a half max I can tolerate but anything uh more than mil and a half i  like them or myself I like to do transition   okay for the bottom part as you can see   it's uh it's a little it's a little  bit it's not even mil less than a mil on the top part the top part is like a mill and a half I can handle I like that I don't mind that it's actually   almost two mils I don't mind on the bottom on  the on the top part but for the bottom got to be   got to be zero, especially on the overhead you  don't want any high low you want to have a   nice and lining up edges inside the root for the  the top part you shouldn't be worried about because all the   the gravity is going to cover any high or low sides  are we got like one mil difference so I got like   mill and a half on the top and mill on each  side that should be all right as any stainless uh they were using uh those the  stainless came from the shop they were using hydro   caps so when they after all that heat and grinding  and cutting they're a little bit oval shaped so   you're not going to get perfect lineup but one  mil maximum you what you should tolerate   okay I'm going to cut three uh bridge rods I'm  gonna put one on the top and two on the sides I'm using stainless rod it's  gonna be one of the top I'm just using cup 10 size for this tacking but usually, I'm   cup 8 this is the one left from the previous welding okay I'm gonna put one on the three o'clock i  like to do this by myself support with from my knee   bend that bridge rod so you  can tack it you can break it you want to check both sides if you got a little  bit bigger gap on one side lower on the other here you're gonna put one on top now I've got the  other side I can take now uh that clamp off it's a good habit if you got the stainless  wedges or brass wedges and just put inside   while you're tacking so it doesn't really shrink  a little bit pull on me on this side on the other   side still good I can still fit one eight I'm  going to use 3/32 rod 316 for the root pass that's still room for 3/32 but i like to have a  little bit more room some guys like to go lose 5/32   and I put like 5/32 was a gap rod but still  still shrink okay I'm gonna put the wedge   supported a little bit so when I put a tack  here so it doesn't really pull even more just nice whether when you when you  when you're tacking try not to go   outside over that edge, you don't want to do  everything you do inside that bevel   because we're going to cut and grind so  it's not going to be visible you don't   want any marks from outside okay now I got all  three tacks I'm not going to put four tacks   on the three because it's starting on  the bottom I'm using aluminum tape   to cover and then we're gonna purge this line is  uh really long it's like uh over 200 feet long   so I'm using uh four purge hoses  set up on like 50 liters per minute and uh on that line you got a  well minimum for me it was like um approximately one hour like to have a proper purge  then you can lower down if you got a purge tool   you see that line is uh really long it's all the  way down to the end I'm gonna check the vent side   already got some holes here covered I like  to make five holes just to vent out any oxygen   five holes I always do with five holes  some guys like one hole or whatever so   I got a little bit of wind on this side so I'm  gonna cover I'm just gonna put that board here   just to prevent any wind from coming inside  again and then you got the mix or turbulence   you want to purge out all that especially  because that line is really long   I'm using this beauty it's a big blue 400 that's  my favorite brand I love that machine I don't know   if you guys ever work with a big blue pipe pro it's  one of the best machines in the market for decades okay I'm using this purge eye monitor this is really handy especially if you got a   a project that everything is 100 % x-ray you don't  want to take any chances with sugaring inside so you want to make sure that's uh zero this  is the purge rod with that hole inside   that's uh where you suck and you got a little  pump but then you pump it you put a needle inside and then you pump on that pump and if your purge  is a good setup you have a really good setup with   purge there shouldn't be any oxygen inside it  takes time as I said it took me like uh almost   an hour to get that proper purge uh for me personally  I like to have zero readings on uh oxygen so no   oxygen at all if you got zero on your monitor then  you know you are 100% percent good some guys they they go with one point something 1.5 last 0.9  I like to have zero if it's not zero you did   something wrong you gotta double check all your  settings we're going to start on the bottom we're gonna start on the bottom  I'm going to feed from the inside you keep the uh keep the rod inside above that  edge I'm just doing constant feet on the bottom   I'll try I'm pushing up all  the way to eight o'clock okay this is where we're gonna stop as you can see  it's getting tight I'm gonna put a little bit more   I'm still gonna climb all the way up to the tack okay when you're starting up again uh I'm not  using any grinder so I'm just preheating that when it   starts melting then you start dipping you just add  rod keep that rod inside the puddle and uh just   keep climbing up but here in this case because  it's already shrunk so it's uh it's   getting really tight here I'm just adding  slowly I lower my amperage I'm down on uh   85 somewhere around that 85 amps even  less 80 you don't really want to go too cold you   want to go enough just to open that keyhole  to keep that keyhole burning those edges but in   the in the same time you have to add that wire on  the sides so you don't have any undercut inside   you don't want any internal undercuts so you just  add enough rod just to cover inside and fill that fill that gap that's as you can see a rod it's stuck here so  I got to pull it out and do it from the outside   I'm just going to go deep  inside want to deep edges okay I'm not going to go I'm not going to  go any further closer to that tack   this is where I'm going to stop because it's uh  it's really tight i don't want to have a real big undercut inside  and then create even more mess at the same amperage, I'm using here around 85. 85-90 depends on the gap   but as you can see I, dip one two three  dip one two three dip one two three   that's how depends uh you can do that dipping  technique you can do constant feed whatever you   feel most comfortable with I like to change deep  this is where we're going up close to the top   this is where we got that two mils high low that  was different so I like to dip sides to make sure   everything is burned and covered so  we got proper uniform roots inside   and right before the tack on the top, we're going  to stop now we're going to start on the other side The same thing feed from the inside and start on a ( root ) pause a little bit pre-heat let it start  melting then keep adding rod keep doing   like a constant feed or whatever you can start  like dip one two three right away on the bottom just gonna wait for that when it starts melting   then you just keep adding rod you can hold  it's right there in the middle of that puddle as I said the bottom is most important is because  it's overhead so you don't want any high or low   a difference that's why high low gauges work  perfect you can give your pipefitter hard time   like if you are not really good at a fitting  and you shouldn't be in you are welding so you got   your own responsibility you can give your pipefitter hard time let them transition for you   let them you want to make a perfect fit up  like one mil that's the max I can tolerate okay now we're going to continue above that tack so  I'm not touching tack I'm welding between the tacks same thing on this side dip dip dip dip sides or dip in the middle and uh  one two three this kind of steps uh or technique   you can do like dip one two three dip one  two-three dip one two three dip one two three if you're gonna get a little  a bit bigger high low inside I like to do what I'm always doing and  you can like in all my previous videos   I like a dip on the sides  you cover dip each side then you know   you 100 percent burn those edges if you like  sometimes if you got big high low and then   you just keep uh holding a rod in the middle  like constant feed, it can happen that you just   you didn't burn actually those edges properly  or even ahh especially on stainless   if you go too fast with the constant feed  if you got a one little misstep   you can see it inside the root you're  not going to have that burned edges   okay on this side the one side that uh shrink  to me, that's really tight we're gonna   we're gonna probably we're gonna have to  cut it okay and I'm gonna cut the tacks off   now on this side as you can see I'm going to  use 1/ 8 uh combo disc it's good for stainless   and carbon but yeah you don't want to touch  carbon and then stainless if you start with   stainless just keep using it on stainless so  we're going to run 1 /8 open and fix those edges to do my feather edges again with a zip cut redo it again okay then uh I'm using that blade to clean all that  uh if you got any burs on the side try to push them out not in the pipe okay now we cut the tacks so now you want  to cover again because uh from grinder you   put all that you put the oxygen back in  so you want to let it purge again so this long pipe we're gonna have some  turbulence it's not gonna purge right away   like on test pieces you  know like in short once   so it takes me around 20- 25  minutes to get a proper purge again that's why I like five holes on the vent side that's how all oxygen inside that's  trapped it's gonna push out that's for sure   if you got one hole the oxygen might stay  trapped it also depends on the from the   from the purge like what's your setting how  much uh as I said I like to 50 liters per minute okay now we got zero again I'm gonna just pump  double time triple three times more just to be sure   that it's a brand new monitor so it's really  sensitive which is good okay I fixed this side   this one this side is done that's the  side one that we open with one eight okay now we gotta fill this side okay when you start start always a half inch on  the bottom preheat and then start   start adding when you go up when you do  tie in you always pause a little bit and   go a half inch over so you hundred percent  sure you have a proper nice tie in as you can see here when I was uh preheating a little bit of wire I always like to add a little  wire so it doesn't open on you sometimes you   know if you pause a little bit too long it  might just open to be wide open sometimes as you can see I'm not I'm going to dip  side inside uh that wall seems like a little   bit thinner especially when you open up  and then you try to do feather edges again it seems like they're a little bit uh thinner and  they just open a little bit more that's why you   gotta have good timing with adding that wire  okay on the top part I'm not gonna do it right   away I'm gonna leave it open so I can we're  going to start on a hot pass from the bottom   one side and then the other side and the reason  why I'm going to leave that window open so you   can always check inside especially we don't have  any suck back and that's what's most common with   the stainless tig especially on stainless so you  can always check so you don't want to go too hot   on the bottom just go enough just to melt  to melt that rod to melt that uh root pass just keep uh I'm not pushing that rod I'm  just keeping that rod right in the middle   and just uh stretching that puddle covering I like to go tight steps cover all uneven spots on your root pass you can go even a little bit hotter than uh  with the amperage that you were using for   your root pass as I said I was like 85 -90 depends  for a hot pass, you can go 95, 90- 95 depends   of how to speed how much handle how much speed you  can handle like what's good for you go with that   this is only my recommended settings okay  now I don't go with a hot pass all the   way here so we gotta leave some room so we can  close that um close that root on the top and that's it I speed up that video and close  that root finish that hot pass then I'm going   to run a buffing wheel all the way around if  you got any arc marks on the side you want   to get rid of you want to have a nice clean  pass and that's it something a little bit for   beginners i hope you guys uh learned something  see something new a little bit different there you go this is how when we clean the buffing  wheel it's nice and clean you can clean it also   outside but I don't do outside just what I do fill  to flash then I clean outside for my cap hope you guys enjoyed this video and uh thank  you for your support please comment and subscribe   and uh we can see in the next  one you guys uh play safe you

Channel: X3M TIG

Views: 12,306

Keywords: TIG Welding For Beginners | 3 Proper Steps Every TIG Welder Should Know !, x3m tig, walking the cup on open root, walking the cup on the root, walk the cup on the root, open root, tig root videos, open root pass, tig, tig welding, walking the cup, root, pipe welding, how to weld, tig welding technique, tig welding videos, welding tips and tricks, pipe root welding, root welding, root pass welding, Tig root, How to weld tig root, tig root pass, Tig welding root, Extreme tig

Id: psc9dFgF5mE

Length: 21min 31sec (1291 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 30 2022