How to Weld a 2G 2-Inch TIG All the Way ~ Tulsa Welding School

hi my name is justin bullard with tulsa welding school and today i'm going to be demonstrating a 2g two inch tig all the way using er 70s6 wire the goal is today is to show you how to successfully get around a two inch two inch coupon okay guys i normally like to clean about a half inch half inch back on both sides i like to clean about a half inch on the inside i also like to clean the bevel but what i use i use a a four and a half by quarter inch grind disc on the outside and i use a cone rock on the inside i like to clean the bevel wool with my grinding disc and come back and buff it back and buff it reason why i buff it i like to get down nice shiny white material white metal that's when you know it's clean the reason why you want to get why you want to get this clean guys because you're trying to get all the rust all the mill scale any debris on your on your internal and external pipe okay reason why jig does not penetrate rust it has to be super super clean okay once you get your material prepped next thing you do you got to make your fit today i'm using a 5 32 gap and i'm and i'm going to take my and i'm going to put my pipe in this spacer right here this spacer is nothing but a flat bar with a piece of angle iron all right next thing i do i'm going to slide my spacer in push it close i'm going to pull my spacer back out i'm going to check my i'm going to check my fit at the top there we go guys got a 5 32 gap no landing we're going to put about a half inch tack on here we're going to go from here to here okay so we want a half inch tack because i don't want that pipe to to draw because a lot of times guys when you whenever you put a a big tack on here the bottom is the bottom side is going to pull like this so and it's going to make it also going to make it harder to to pull it back so i like a half inch tack on the front only on the top right here i'm going to roll it around i'm going to put a half inch tack on the back side all right guys now we're ready to attack the first thing i want to show you is how to tack okay that's how to part of the put your tack so what i do first thing i do i take my torch i'm going to wrap my hand around just like this the reason why because i'm trying to get the weight off the torch so i like to wrap my hand around my torch like this i'm going to come in here the first thing i'm going to do guys i'm going to strike it up and strike on this bevel i'm going to drag it up on this bevel i'm going to preheat these two bevels once i get preheated i'm going to put my rod halfway in half way out that means the rod that means i'm taking that rod and i'm cutting that rod half in two so half the rod is going to be on the inside half the rod is going to be on the outside so once i strike my arc i'm going to heat both sides up then i'm going to add my wire i'm going to have my wire right here on the leading edge and i'm gonna and i'm always gonna keep my torch pointed straight down you don't wanna have your torch at an angle like this what's gonna do is gonna heat up the end of the rod and it's gonna ball up you've got a good chance of falling out so i like my my torch parallel and i'm going to go side to side keep my rod halfway in halfway out my movement's going to be side to side bevel the bevel another thing guys is very important is your tungsten stick out see right now i got about a half inch stick out you don't you don't want your your tungsten way out here like this you don't want your tungsten up and uh inside your torch like this either you want about a half inch out i like my tungsten right about there all right guys now i'm gonna check my fit one more time and i'm gonna slide it closer all right i got my 532 gap all right guys here we go bring it over here and move side to side keeping that rod halfway in that way out make sure you push the wire because if you notice right here that keyhole got a little bit bigger so what i did to to keep falling out is i pushed a little more wire in there a little more wire into my puddle after we make our first tack we're going to inspect it okay well i like to use a flashlight for my inspection so what i'm going to do guys is i'm going to shine my flashlight down inside my pipe to make sure i got a good tack you don't want your attack not be no more than eighth of an inch right now this tack it's about eight it's about a 30 second above flush on the inside you don't what i mean by eighth of an inch you don't want an eighth of an inch reinforcement okay so now what i'm gonna do now is i'm gonna check my my feet up is i'm going to use my 532 welding rod again i'm going to check my top and i'm going to check my sides there a little bit on the wide side so i'm just going to i'm going to take my hand i'm going to push on both ends just to get the spread all right that seems pretty pretty close so now i've got the gap that i like okay now i've got the gap that i like my rod is sliding through and um now i'm able to put my second tack in okay remember on your second attack guys you want a half inch tack what i like to do i like to put my second tack in then check my sides because i i don't want one side wider than the other i don't want one side tighter than the other so once i get my second tack in i'm gonna check my side to side all right that should be good they are gonna tighten up a little bit but once you get your sec once you get that tack in there a lot of times they will a lot of times they'll draw it up closer right now i'm putting a little bit of the heat in this side why it's very important that you make sure that you heat up both bevels before you start adding adding wire another thing if you notice right here i popped up to the side i what i was trying to do i was trying to get the fish eye out i'm trying to pull the fish eye to the side and right here i pulled it right here on the bevel you never want to leave the fish out in the middle you always want to pull the fish eye up on your bevel then terminate your weld so now what i'm going to do guys is i'm going to check the uh spacing on this side it's it's just a little bit wider so what i'm going to do is i'm going to give it a tap as they're pretty close that one's all right that one's a little tight so what i'm gonna do is give it another little whack shake it again i can work with that guys another thing i forgot to mention earlier you see on the end of this rod that's oxidation you want to remove that before you start so i what i use i use a pair of clippers or a pair of clients and we'll cut the end of that rod off where it's nice and clean make sure every time that you are using a tig wire that you're clipping the ends okay all right once we got it tacked up i'm going to take my arm and i'm going to raise it up i like it around eye level uh i know when you're out on the field sometimes it ain't always going to be perfect and ain't going to be eye level but when you're in a welding booth try to be and you're just getting started try to be comfortable as possible now what i'm going to start on guys is i'm going to feather my inner my tax out i'm going to start feathering this one then we'll feather this one this one i'm going i'm going to feather the ends and i'm going to thin out the center okay you want the ends to be thin uh you want to not the end of your weld because when you come up to it you want to be able to consume that tack or that tie-in okay it's very important you get a good tie-in on your on your tacks it's very good it's very important you get a good time all the way around okay so you have to thin out your you have to announce your tax every time you stop or restart you have to grind out your tax okay all right here we go so now what i'm gonna do enough where i could tie into it now once you've got your tacks feathered the first thing you want to do you want to adjust your machine okay right now right now i'm running about 80 amps and we got it on gas tungsten arc welding what a technique i like to use guys i like to use a backfeed technique um a lot of times i actually will feed through the bevel okay how i keep from losing my wire before i start i'm gonna poke my wire through right here and pull it back then i'm gonna strike my arc come back heat up boom add my rod but when i add my rod i'm gonna add it on the high side okay what i mean by that is i'm gonna add it to the upper bevel sometimes when that gap is a little wide what you can do you can wiggle that rod just slightly back and forth to get that rod i mean to get that puzzle tie into both bevels okay my torch angle my angle is going to be parallel it's going to be straight i'm going to keep my torch straight i'm going to keep my rod about a 45 degree angle but i'm also going to keep the feeding that rod at the feeding that rod to the top of the bevel and i'll go all the way around the other thing guys i've seen this a lot whenever god whatever everybody's first starts off they kind of they everybody wants to feed it too far down you want to go from bevel to bevel so you're taking it from here to here not here to here if if you're doing that you're overfilling your root you got to keep everything between the bevels okay and my movement is just like this back and forth back and forth back forth back forth all right guys another technique i use a lot a lot especially when i used to work out in the field is i use a uh looking through the gap technique what i mean by that is i'm gonna i'm gonna put my eyes through the gap i'm gonna look through the gap and i'm gonna look at the backside of that rod and when i come around right here i'm gonna move my head this way and i'm always looking to the inside back forth back forth and right about here i'm gonna be my head's gonna be right here looking at the back of the puddle and i'm watching that rod i'm watching the puddle i'm paying more attention to where the rod is at the next the where my tungsten is at wherever my tungsten going my rods don't come with it so i'm trying to keep the rod on from the puddle because the reason why because i don't want coal wire that's the reason why i like to feed through the back of the gap because i know i'm putting that rod on from that puddle i'm no i'm not going to leave coward behind a lot of times when when when you feed it this way guys that you will get that really get that rod too far behind the puddle and you actually cold wire so i'm going to keep the rod on front of the puddle i'm going to keep it on the upper bevel and i'm going to go back and forth side to side all right guys here we go we'll strike an arc we're going to heat it up once i see it once i see the end of the weld once i see it keyhole we'll start feeding always got to push and i'm keeping the rod on the upper bevel back and forth back and forth now i'm going to come around here keep the rod in front of the puddle keep the rod on the upper bevel and go side to side now put key holes too much there's a couple things you can do first thing i like to do is like to push a little bit more metal in i like to give it this little wiggle like this okay now i'm gonna back my rod up reposition come back side to side i get some italian what i like to do this is something i do i'll go back over my tie in back and forth what i'm doing is soaking that tie in pop off right here on the edge i'm getting the key i'm getting the fish eye before the fish are on the edge of the bevel [Music] i like to go about a half inch back keep the back up throw that and rod all right and the rod i'm keeping that rod about about 15 degree angle and then my torch is slightly forward i know you want parallel but you can just a little bit a little bit forward all right before i make my tie in i like to thin out my restart so i'm gonna then i'm gonna restart over here and i'm going to thin my restart right here i like to grind about a half inch back because i whenever i make my tie in i'll walk it four and a half inch back then i walk it backwards to extrude my restart if you watch it you'll see it really soon when they're going to be consumed like that and tying that's when you know you have enough they grind it enough to make let me grind enough to tie everything back in together and i made my tying i'm almost doing a lay wire technique but it's still considered a back view because what i'm doing is i'm just keeping the wire halfway in halfway out now what i'm doing guys is i'm making sure i got a good tie in and pop up to the side now we got our root made next thing we got to do we got a wire wheel the root okay reason why because we're trying to remove the contaminants any contaminants in that weld okay what i mean by that is silicon deposit cylinder deposit is a coating on your tig wire the first thing you want to do is you want to use you want a wire wheel all the way around it and you want to check it okay inspect your weld before you start okay [Applause] also guys make sure you inspect your weld if you have any hot spots any bumps you gotta remove it before you put your hot pass in those hot spots will not melt out you gotta you gotta take your grinder and manually remove them okay i like to use a thin disc which is a four and a half by 332 it's a thin cutting disc so if i have any high spots in there i'm going to take this thin disc and i'm just going to go back and forth to smooth it out i don't like a thicker disc for one reason because the thicker this it will open up the bevels and widen the bevels wider okay the goal is not widening these bevels okay you do not want to widen these bevels you want to leave them the same because the reason why you want to put a straight cap on your pipe so now once we buffed out our hot root pass now we're going to hot pass i like to hop past around 115 amps and another thing i want to show you real quick a lot of guys get confused with the hot pass they like to put their torch straight in that they really don't put an angle to it luckily enough i'm using a flex head so i'm going to just flex my torch up and when i walk the cup i like to keep that that torch pointed up so i'm going to come back forward back forward back forward walking the cup guys to me it's it's it's when you first start off it's a lot like rolling a burl when you're rolling a barrel back and forth the movement is is pretty similar how i learned years ago i learned by walking a cup on a mason jar that's how i learned how to get that's how i learned how to walk the cup almost 20 years ago when i first got into this industry um the biggest thing walking the cup guys i notice is guys get stiff okay you want nice fluid movements you don't want to be stiff you want to be nice fluid movements you want to walk the cuff back forward back forward back forward okay and you want to keep that torch pointing up okay you don't want torch pointed down you want to keep the torch pointed up and also you want the filler wire to be up okay you don't want the filler wire down low you don't want in the middle you want to kind of keep it high on the puddle okay so i'm gonna fire up i'm gonna walk it back and forth let it heat up then i'm gonna add my rod nice fluid movements i'm also i'm laying that torch just a little uh laying towards the back okay and i'm keeping my rod up high and i'm going back and forth make sure when you make sure when you're doing your high pass that you're getting these toes tell your bead to wash out okay a hot pass is designed to remove any kind of uh in any kind of defects with your root which this one really didn't have any but that's what is that's what a hot pass is designed for remember don't try to go outside your bevels either right now i'm just going from bevel edge to bevel edge and i'm going to try to carry this all the way around if i can back and forth nice fluid movements you want to make sure that puddle is hitting each wall make your time on both sides get over here i'm gonna terminate the weld oh wait a minute there we go a little further all right i'm gonna walk it just about a half inch past all right guys once you get your hot pass in the next thing you want to do is you want to buff and clean out your weld okay so i'm going to start from this side i'm going to clean it all the way around i'm going to do my inspection on it too after that we're going on our field pass about 110 amps and we're gonna use the same method okay we're gonna keep the rod up high and we're gonna wash the puddle down back and forth we're gonna walk the cup out okay once i get once i get it flushed out then we're going to cap it no little tip guys once you get it flushed out let it cool down before you cap it okay if not a lot of times you'll get undercut the beetle be kind of sagging you've got to let it cool down after you put your fill pass in make sure you heat it up then you start adding rod because if you if you don't what's going to happen is it's going to ball up and it's going to fall up and leave a big old ball there you got to make sure you heat both sides up right now i'm filling it up i'm putting the fill pass in i'm going from bevel to bevel now i like the dome shaped cap guys so i i like to have it flush before i cap i i like it just a little bit over flush [Music] [Music] up all right guys now i'm ready for my cap if you notice i'm nice and flushed out the bead is nice and flat it's not humpy so well now we're ready for our cap we're going to put a two bead cap and i'm using er 70s 1 8 okay now i'm going to cap it from here the toe of my bead to just above center i want just me i want just about a thirty second of an inch between edge of my bead and top of my bevel okay so i'm gonna go from here to here when i'm putting when i'm running my my cap i'm watching when i'm laying down i'm not watching what's in front of the puddle i'm watching when i'm laying down reason why because i want to make sure i'm hitting that same spot every time so when i'm welding i'm not watching from a puddle i'm watching from behind bring it up bring it back let it heat up never like i said earlier never add rod into a cold puddle and bring it down make sure you're hitting that toe that's why it's very important guys to to watch what you're laying down because if you're not watching what you're laying down you're never gonna get that bead to be straight you never won't get an even cap either so i'm keeping the rod in the middle about halfway in the middle and [Music] coming up coming down shoulder all right all right heat it up and guys you notice i went a little further back on my restart the reason why because i don't want that cap to be lower than my tie-in so i went a little further back make sure i didn't have a low cap come up down up down uh down [Music] and and all right guys now i'm gonna put my final cap i'm gonna go from toe uh i'm gonna go from the shoulder to about halfway center okay and i'm gonna keep my rod right here at the right here on the toe i'm gonna go from from the toe to the center and i'm going to use a 1 8 er7 es6 wire also so the very the cap is very important you get the cap nice and straight and nice and good looking okay because whenever you whenever you're uh going for a job that's the first thing they're going to look at the cap and the root those two things have to be right i mean they're very important you get the cap and the root right it's also very important you keep a straight cap like i said earlier you want to use it you want to use that bevel edge as a guideline so you're going to use that bevel heads as a guideline and you're going to go from from edge to center [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so [Music] all right fellas this is my two inch uh tig all the way using er7es6 if you like if you like this video please share and subscribe and leave us comments down below if something you'd like to see from us i'm justin bullock from tulsa welding school and you all have a good day peace out

Channel: Tulsa Welding School

Views: 80,414

Keywords: weld, welding, welder, tulsa welding school, welding school, skilled trades, vocational school, vocational training

Id: BXlSUcsFHzA

Length: 32min 27sec (1947 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 05 2021