Three stone pear shape ring

[Music] in this lesson i'm going to show you how to make this really pretty three stone ring set with a pear-shaped amethyst this is the collection of materials i'll be using for this project if you've got a piece of three millimeter square silver or gold whatever you're going to use wire then you can roll or and draw your metal to these measurements that i'm going to give you right now so the center stone is a pear-shaped amethyst that is six mil by eight mil and i'm just going to turn it around and just get a general size of the bezel so we want these stones to sit on top we're going to make a round bezel first and just make a judgment to see if that is going to form the right size and i can see that that will from inside the setting to outside is the best way to to cut these so i'm just going to do it this way now of course all the material has been annealed ready to be worked worked so just make sure that you have a nailed it before you start but hard solder is the closest alloy to the actual silver so you're always better off using hard sole regardless of whether you're going to open the setting up later on um we're going to form it into the pear shape and we can trim a little bit a bit of metal off if need be but the most important thing is is to get the angle right the only way you know you've got the perfect angle [Applause] quickly where the solar joint is and again you cut a little squeeze and then start to squeeze it together and you'll see they'll start forming a nice pear shape although it has slightly fat shape but you can see it's coming along about this way and tighten it up again you need to make sure you contact the setting at the right point so if you're off angle with your tweezers you could squeeze it so that one side runs off on one direction so there you go it didn't really take that much then you push the wire around keep it really tight onto the pliers and to not be seen with the stone on top so you can see that's too big but it doesn't matter what i'm going to do is pretty much using guesswork [Laughter] and forcing it into a round shape now that'll be round enough to file it and get it [Applause] and we're done and i'm going to just put a little cut down the side from that mark set it up on a third hand so that's the setting will just stay there as you saw and get it into position [Music] and we'll move around i'll just get my solder in position just with my tweezers this time as you can see things are moving moving a bit but i'm gonna move it back end up properly as before you should be able to turn it by hand like so you might need two pliers and then overlap it just keep it's gonna be a lot of bashing going on it saves a lot of filing and saves a lot of metal or something similar will fit inside the setting to be able to mark it like this but now i can use my scalpel to just put a mark just slightly inside [Laughter] and create the curve that way just make sure you don't change the angle so that will allow me to solder it without any apparatus um but i'll just show you this ring soldering clamp other joints will start sweating and components drop off so you don't need really good salt and that's the other side done so we can now work on getting the claws and just to make sure the drill is steady uh but if you're a good driller and it's a fresh drill then you can just go in with the drill straight off so now i'm going to turn the drill to the right angle and just go bend them into a u-shape and you want them to be dead parallel so they are flush against the setting i uh place the solder on the part of the floor at the bottom here where i'll be cutting it off anyway then that minimizes the clean off later on you can just see the solar rise to the top of course you can file this and if you prefer [Music] if your square shape make sure everything stays perfectly lined up so you should have that nice line going through everything symmetrical from that line the joint okay i'll just add a little bit more and that is a really large joint and if possible try not to allow the solder to run onto the other uh clearly to over cut it and cut to perhaps cut too far and there's no going back once you've done that you've really messed it up so i'm just going to very slowly place if you're not careful for now just leave them a little bit and just take the the edge off it and make it more into a v shape now the other thing you need to watch out for is where the claws are soldered heartburn that will fit inside like that so if it's much smaller it doesn't matter it'll still make the same cuts now as you saw when i placed the stone it was lifted at this end so pretty much all i need to do is put a slight cut on the um two claws next to the bezel and i'll also run the and that will just latch onto the claw there and then you can just give it a bit of a push so any tool that will hold itself there is good enough without too much effort this one here if you find it hard to move these claws just take off the outside edge and it will move quite easily i'm going to do that once and just the outer edge of the claw there just to angle it now as you can see i'm um i've got full contact with the work via my thumb and i've also got my other hand cupping my thumb just to keep everything steady because it's easy to slip off your work if you're not careful the with a sideways approach [Music] and just start to get a little pocket in there so now looking at it sideways let's have a look yeah i need to just bird down you can see how it's slightly lifted at the point and so i just need to go under that pocket a little bit there's a bit of a lump there just at that point there so i'll just stroke the bird down both sides just swap it over one side then the other to make sure it doesn't start tilting let's have a feel see if it's moving it's pretty good um file as well like so it's a nice little shape in there once i've squeezed it down so i'm not going to give any pressure towards the point where it'd be now going downward and use that burnishing method to with more effect with these pliers and just roll it over the outer edge and you can see the shape it's taking on because emery paper will scratch us down like this now if i was using the brownie the shofu brownie then that will scratch the stone so only do this make contact with the stone with the greeny and now we have it set polished and finished hope you enjoyed you

Channel: Jewellery Training Solutions

Views: 27,635

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Id: TTLBLLa2Gq0

Length: 12min 28sec (748 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 17 2021