Five Stone Dress Ring Preview

i'm going to show you how to make this five stone dress ring one of the main challenges of making a ring like this is to space the stones perfectly so they're just touching when it comes to setting the stones i'm having the stones graduate down from the center from center one being 4.8 mil and then we've got 3.8 mil and then we've got three mil on the ends there now the good thing about this design is you can pick either all the same size stones or you could even have an oval shape or square shaped stone in the center lots of options with this now i've got a strip of sterling silver that is 1.2 mil thick and the width is six mil so it's wider than it needs to be but we're going to do some cutting and carving later on and the length of it will cover the arrangement of stones times two and add a little bit more so and you can always use the side of the bench peg as well so just cradle it into the ventricles like that try and get a nice right angle going to start with i'm using my nylon hammer suit hammered tiger [Music] i'm going to use my ring bender to form the head of the ring and i've not nominated the sizes yet so i'll just go for an average size of m and the middle section of the ring bender fits the profile pretty well and it will start opening up here a little bit but so we'll just squeeze that down you can use medium so i'll just put a little scratch there so that'll be um an indication of where the last stone should go beeswax along there and enough so the stones will hold in place upside down whilst i do some marking out so pop the center one right between those lines [Music] and i do find that that pro cook really handy when it comes to this kind of intense bearing really helps so i'm going right through the middle let's see if that two and a half mil bur will work for that i think it will for the top tier i might just change over for the bottom one overlapping make sure the holes are all in line which they are now and we'll just check the two end stones before we open them up to the right size so just place the stones on help me to shape it so it just cuts in like so we can finish off the ends later when we um we need to do is support the whole thing when we cut the ends off i'll show you how to do that shortly but um what we don't need to hit it with your file at this stage if you want but it's a bit more efficient and if you haven't got a three square hand file you can use flat file with the safety edge one way and then the other way [Applause] if that was straight like that it's just turned a little bit so it just makes the bottom tier slightly tighter so fine tune the settings file them all into shape get rid of all the lumps and buns and on the underside it should look a little bit thinner and smaller than the top side now the top so i'll pull the wire to point eight of a mil and i think that's going to look pretty good and not to bunch together plenty of thickness for setting later on as well or that you keep the angle correct so you can see it there that it's slightly angled and to follow the contour of the filing that you did before and what that does is if you follow that line down to the center point of the ring later on when it is a complete ring you'll find that all these points come to the very center [Music] the stones in place and what should happen is when you put the claw wire into the groove it should just budge the stones or touch them enough to move them a little bit so that that means that when it comes to setting you're gonna have to put a little bit of a cut into the claw wire your chain nose pliers the very point of it so we want to get really nice tight bend right in the middle there we want it to hold tight enough that you can get them all in place and do the soldering in one hits so make sure each one is comfortable in the groove there that one needs a because we're going to be far enough away from this solar joint here but it shouldn't cause a problem okay once you've done that pickle it and then we'll take a look ends off and start working on putting the salt on it and then this is the wire that was going to use for the shank is two and a half mil square and looking at it now it's i think it's going to be too small to make a decent shank because i want the shoulders to have enough width that i can just line up the claws and tuck them in on the just where the crease will be so that's too small so change of plan i rolled out a piece of silver that's three mil square this is 30 mil long it doesn't look very long for a shank that's because i'm going to step roll the middle bit hopefully by this stage you've had some practice of doing this kind of step rolling it's pretty easy to do so you just find the um wire section that fits the best in the middle there and just clamp the very center of the strip and squeeze the rolls together so i can now roll it up and as far as the marker that i just put not very far so it doesn't feel like you're doing much but then loosen it off before you go too far because if you go too far you're going to pinch it so you can see it's getting a little bit sharp there so put it back in the same way so the sharpness is now facing up and i'm turning the handle squeezing it and tightened up again to give it a little bit more length there we'll just see where we're at so we're done so this will just help it step up to the height as it meets the setting i'm going to perform it with the ring bender first of all turn off the two ends in the smallest part and then bring them together it's gonna look tiny but so we're gonna still a little bit of forming just seeing me do because it's really worthwhile it makes such light work of making the shank part of a ring [Music] kind of made that look a bit too easy got one side right just need to take a little bit at the bottom of this side and that's acting like a glue so i'll just stop for a minute and i'll check to make sure it's lined up by looking at it this way and this way once i've done this side i'll go back to the other side because i only put a little bit of solder in place because i might need to stick it on my ring stick and our mandrel and get it to the right size so that obviously will be done when all this comes away [Applause] [Music] [Applause] okay make sure there's no gaps and the solder up was in a perfect place i want them lopsided i'm using my saw plate just to cut the top tier if you now cut your u-shapes and fit them in making sure that when they're in position just move this one over okay do the rest now and now we'll solder the last of the claws the bottom of the claws i'm very careful not to cut into the setting well because these these claws are quite fine and probably bend down [Music] on this now and then if you're going to hallmark it will mark it as soon as you've got the correct width i just need to take a little bit more off this because then you can use a knife edge needle file just wrap emery around it and try and clean up any tool marks that way but then finish off because all the drag lines will go one way so what you want to do is finish off with your burnisher and just cross direction like that cleaning up around fine claws like this it's not as aggressive as using a mop and you can work around the top of the setting as well with this the ring's now finished and it's ready for setting you

Channel: Jewellery Training Solutions

Views: 24,319

Keywords:

Id: Ig3GwUeeTJo

Length: 15min 0sec (900 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 05 2021