THIS Problem Can Destroy Your Toyota V6 Engine! Owners Be Aware!

hello and welcome to the car kernel Channel and welcome to another 2grfe video 3.5 liter Toyota Lexus V6 these engines are generally great engines but they have one thing that could completely kill them and you really need to know about it if your 2grfe is equipped with an oil cooler Toyota decided at some point to have a rubber section in that oil cooler line that goes between the cooler and the engine this light this rubber piece loves the rupture and it will drain this engine from oil in a matter of seconds and it'll blow it up before you even have a chance to pull over especially if you're driving on the highway in this video we have this 2009 Toyota Highlander with said oil cooler hose that is rubber we're going to change it to an all metal line this all metal line comes from Toyota Let's lift this car up let's start taking it apart and I'll tell you first how to distinguish which one is which and how to replace it and everything in between let's get started so the first thing we're going to do is remove these covers to expose the oil cooler and we'll talk about it so here is the oil cooler line that is rubber you see the rubber section right here that is the part that is no good and with the covers on if you come around the back you can actually see it very very clearly you see how that rubber section right here this is the problem so what we're going to replace it with is one that is all metal and the all metal part I want you to see the part number this is a special kit part number you're not going to find another catalog because I'll tell you a little tip I'll write that number also on the screen if you go and ask the dealership for an oil cooler line it's only going to be the oil cooler line and it's going to be very expensive and then you have to buy the gaskets as well this kit which you're not going to find in the manual has everything you need to do this job it has the gaskets already with it and the updated oil cooler line and you notice the section where the rubber lines go now is all metal this will last the life of the car this how it this is how it should have been from the beginning and they did it now believe it or not and this is the part where you really gotta look at this part number and get this this fits all the two gr's regardless of model this kit Cost Less than just the oil cooler line along without the gaskets don't know why that's just how it is so let's start with the car we want to open the way so we can get this guy out let's get our AF sensor this O2 sensor disconnected we'll get this off 10 mil right here we're going to push this wire out of the way now we do have six nuts and bolts that hold it two nuts and one bolt on each line the thing is once you get the bolts off and the nuts you can't just pull the line out you have to remove the studs if you're in Rusty land sometimes when you remove this nut the stud will come with it and I'll show you if that doesn't happen how you remove it there is one tricky one which is this bottom one you have to find just the right Contraption to get it out in the best way we found is depends this will depend on the bottle and how much access you have you get a mid length 12 millimeter socket quarter inch so it's small and we will go right on it like that there we go that came right out sometimes it will be extremely difficult to get to it you have to use some Ingenuity but in majority of the bottles this is not too bad Venza is notably the tighter one and the harder one on the Venza this clamp will be in your way so you have to undo it and turn it so this part the flat part is towards there but in the Highlander and the RX they're not too bad where is that nut things will keep dropping now let's remove all of them the one other thing that you have to do you're going to keep moving this side to side to give you clearance you see how this bracket right here is in the way of that stud you're gonna hold this bracket and push it a little bit to the side don't push it too much to break it or stretch this wire especially enough where you have access to the bolt and then you're all good be careful with these bolts when they're Rusty especially that last one be gentle don't use break the bolts Loose by hand then if you want to use power tools to run them out and run them in that's fine because this last one is known to break when you put excessive force on it and when it breaks it's going to break in the oil sub pan and now this turns into a giant project so we're going to start taking loosening our bolts by hand that they're all 12 they're bolts are nuts they're all 12 millimeter this is of course Rusty Land Cars all the bolts have significant rust on them now that you've gotten all of them loose you can use power tools to run them out and back in when you take this off make sure you see the dribble make sure you have a cast pan or something that's going to catch all the oil it's going to fall because this is going to make a giant mess [Applause] that last one can be tricky to get a power tool on it we might end up just [Applause] see what happened with this one the nut came out with a stud that is okay you can reuse this or you can just install a bolt all these studs do is just help you in installation but if it comes out like this don't worry these studs are designed to come out so now before you pull this thing out which it'll give you a hard time to come out you're going to want to remove the studs not all of them you already have one that came out you want to remove this one and the top one here leave the bottom one and if the outer one doesn't didn't come out you can also leave it but you got to remove this one and this one so we're going to use an inverted Torx E8 socket this will grab the tip of the stud again don't use power tools to remove this break them loose by hand and then you can use power tools there you go this came out this other one is the tricky one because you don't have a lot of access a lot of room there's a stud see how the tip of the stud as that EA Torx on it just goes right into it and grabs it really well that's the majority by the way of Toyota studs will have the ones that are designed to come out will have some kind of e-torques at the tip [Applause] now you can see that the cooler line already fell down and get this out of the way and let's pull it out take a look here is that cooler line folks it's Rubber and it's no good and this is the better one see it's exactly the same it just does not have the rubber section this rubber is rock hard I mean I I want you to see something we're going to do a small experiment here this rubber is rock hard I'm going to try to clamp it ripped already you see that it ripped right there so this one is barely moving if you just put any kind of pressure on it just rips right off that's the problem with these this is what happens with these they get so brittle gone folks this was a bad idea from Toyota this should have been the line that went into this car this is a metal line it's not going anywhere now the gaskets usually come out with it but you got to make sure that they came out because these caskets can get they're really skinny metal gaskets and I will show you something very important about this job failing or working do you see how when I remove the gaskets the remnants of the gaskets remained this is the machine surface so is the surface that they sit on when you have pieces of the gasket stay there like if we look here you can see all this section of the gasket stayed this black part and similarly here you can even see pieces of it still on here you see that piece you have to remove this otherwise this will leak a lot faster than the Rubber One rupturing so here's how we're going to clean this so we're going to clean the surface with a razor blade to remove all of these black spots left by the gaskets you see there's a bunch of them you can take our laser blade see that they're already going away this area right here you especially want to clean the area around the the openings not so much on the edges the edges won't make a huge difference so if you have some left over on the edges that's fine but just try your best take your time don't rush this is the kind of job you're going to do once and never do again so you don't want to do it twice because you did not clean the gasket well so I'm going to spend some time here clean all this very well and then I'll show you the final result and this part that I'm going to do right now is because I am OCD I'm going to use some red Scotch Brite and just go over it you don't have to do this if you don't want to but I just sleep better at night when we do this now we're going to give it a good clean there will always be oil dribbling and that you can't control from experience that wouldn't affect the ceiling you see a little bit of oil dribble as you're installing things don't worry you don't have liquid gaskets this gasket will be like right here you see that how you have this dribble this will always be there you cannot stop it so just clean it as best as possible make sure the surface doesn't have anything on it and if a little bit oil dribbles down that's not an issue and here is how that final look here's the other one that's how you want it to be nice and clean and ready for the new line we're going to install our gaskets and the gaskets will be tricky because you don't have these studs so one of the gaskets does have a stud at least one of them which is this one I put it on the stud and leave it sitting right there the other one has no stud to sit on so you're gonna have to install it start a bolt and then that will hold it so on our line just take the caps this line goes like this the bigger part is the part facing forward this is the one that is sideways obviously you can't install it the other way but just to give you an orientation we're gonna hold this right here and grab one of the studs that has the nut on it and kind of just get it started here to hold the gaskets put the bottom into the stud and then this will this is the kind of job that would be nice if you had three hands but we only have two so be patient this is a little bit of a patient Escape to get this started because you don't want to round things off now we're going to start this top stud to hold everything together uh this side has not even started didn't start right this is going to be really this is essentially the difficult part it's in the correct orientation we're going to install it it's probably the trickiest part of this job once you get things two bolts started you should be good you got to make sure your gasket is seated properly not sticking out and just like that it is started do not tighten any of the bolts until all your studs and bolts are in and started this one is the trickiest one when you go back in to start straight there's no real sequence just to tightening these enough [Applause] just like so it is really difficult to get a torque wrench in here so good and tight applies here don't over tighten them where you break them don't leave them loose and you'll know when things are not tight because you'll have a leak now the last one which is I'm gonna switch sockets here again mid length quarter inch 12 millimeter does the trick for the bottom with an extension here and there and that's pretty much done with that we're gonna install our O2 sensor connector back last but not least plug it in now here is what needs to happen after you do this and I want to make sure that you are aware of this we were working here yes some oil dribbled down not a big deal but watch what happens to this oil how it travels we have oil all the way down here and the reason for that is and this is why you really need to spend time cleaning this is the oil will come here come to the edge of the oil pan and actually run down you can kind of see it from here how it's all wet here and it'll start dribbling down at the very end of the oil pan this is something it always does you want to use brake clean liberal amounts so you can get all that oil away but I will give you one warning something you must never do never spray spray clean on your O2 sensor it will immediately ruin it if not shortly after never ever spray brake clean on O2 sensors and here's a tip if you're cleaning this and it's a mess take a take a sharp towel and wrap your O2 sensor with it then if some brake clean comes on it's going to go on the towel and it'll kind of buffer so here's what we're going to do here we're going to clean this entire thing and then we're all done before we wrap it up for those who are not diying this job I'm going to give you some information on how to check this real quick on the car some very important information that you need to know about this shop and just general information if you're DIY or not this is a semi kind of a medium skill DIY job if you have ramps you can do this you don't really need a lift makes it a lot easier with a lift of course but parts you might be tempted to go buy aftermarket parts do not do that it just makes absolutely no sense Toyota made a proper part that is all metal you're not going to have a problem with it the second thing is buy that part number I'm going to re-emphasize this because I see people paying three times more for the same thing so by this part number and this part number you can't just ring up your dealership and tell them oh I want the oil cooler line but I want it no walk to the dealership parts department tell them I want this part number some dealerships might tell you oh we won't tell you this part number go to the next one they will eventually sell it to you doesn't matter this is not some special part Toyota just made a kit in a technical service bulletin and that's the part number for it and for information every time you see the number zero four zero zero four at the beginning of the part number this is a special service kit this is not a standard parts catalog part the other thing is before you even start all this here is a very simple way to know a if you have an oil cooler in your car B what style you have because the newer cars came with the all metal line from the factory so here's what you're gonna do pull the engine cover you could do this without following it off but I just like to pull it off to look better you're gonna look right between the dipstick and the alternator here's your alternator you're going to look down straight down and it's probably going to be really hard to show on video but you can actually see the oil cooler if you see nothing you don't have an oil holder don't worry about it if you see it all metal one you're good don't worry about it if you see the rubber ones however you need to replace it and ASAP because I have seen so many 2gr engines completely failed because that line ruptures and before you jump in the comments there is another line you also might want to address it is a lesser severity than the front the oil cooler line which is the vvti supply line this line also has a small rubber section this line also got updated to an auto Metal one and this line lives right here this is that line you see this one does not have the rubber section this rubber section starts do you see the curve of this line the rubber section would be right here this one does not have it if you have this line you might want to update it but the problem is Toyota did not update this as a special service part they updated it in the newer models so I'm gonna do this that we will leave for another video when we get one to replace however here is the part number for that line This is the line you're gonna get this is the part number you're gonna buy if you want to upgrade yours in the models of power steering it's going to be difficult you have to pull the power steering pump out with the models that do not have power steering like this one it is a simple job we will leave it for another video once we get one to show you because this one happens to have the all metal line already so we don't have to worry about it and folks lastly before we wrap up the video if you are not diying this you're taking this to a shop two hours of labor is about standard for this job this line is not expensive this is an inexpensive job you should not pay a small fortune for it no the oil cooler do not have to come off some shops have done that do not want to remove that oil cooler there's no need for it and this is not a massive job on the Venza it might creep up to two and a half three hours because it is a lot tighter on the Venza but otherwise this is not a bad job and something you definitely need to consider because this little this little line could really destroy this engine in a matter of seconds folks I hope this video was helpful informative I hope you learned something new if you like it consider giving a thumbs up if you're not a subscriber consider subscribing to the channel check out some of my other videos until the next video folks may the Lord bless you and keep you and you have yourself a wonderful day

Channel: The Car Care Nut

Views: 296,623

Keywords: toyota v6 engine, 2gr-fe, toyota problems, lexus v6 engine, toyota oil leak, toyota v6 problems, toyota v6 owners, oil cooler line, toyota oil cooler leak, oil leak, rubber line, toyota v6 engine problems, toyota v6 engine teardown, toyota v6 engine name, toyota v6 engine reliability, the car care nut, scotty kilmer, car wizard, should you buy a toyota, toyota reliability, lexus v6, toyota 3.5l engine, tccn automotive, car care nut, toyota mechanic, lexus mechanic

Id: hbMzH42cqCI

Length: 24min 29sec (1469 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 17 2022