The Fastest Way to Layer Hair

hi friends Andrew Carruthers here education director for Sambia and welcome back to the artist studio today we want to share with you something pretty fun because it's kind of the turbo speeed way to get great highly textured layers would you believe that this haircut really only has about six or eight sections in it and at full speed it's gonna take you about five minutes to cut well believe it or not about to show you so stay tuned [Music] sectioning is going to be really critical here because it's going to be our roadmap for the overall shape so we're first going to start by parting from the front Center all the way to the center back here and then from the mid crown we're gonna take a section diagonally to the top of the ear what we're trying to create here is kind of an X pattern that crosses through where we want the shortest point of the haircut to be for this particular shape we're gonna choose the crown you could always take this cross and put it at the top of the head and that's gonna change where your shortest point of the layers is so let's go to this front right quadrant remove our clip and we'll take our first section now if she has super fine hair you can take all of this in one section if you'd like but because Lydia has a little bit more medium density we're gonna go ahead and take a parting right there at the occipital that gives us still quite a bit of hair to work with but it's not going to be exceptionally in thick to where it's going to be difficult to work with I'm going to stand on the opposite side of my guest opposite of the point of the triangle so that triangle should be pointed straight into my chest I elevate the hair straight up towards the ceiling and what I'm going to choose is a length that this point in the crown follows right where I want it to but I also need to kind of think about when I pick up that section at that point what does that leave me here and how close to my perimeter does that fall because if I want to preserve that perimeter I want to make sure that after I pick up this last piece of there and I elevate all the way up that I'm not going to cut into that perimeter and as I do that you can see that perimeters falling out so that tells me I'm gonna be ok so let's go back to our section and let's elevate that straight up towards the ceiling now we're at one that first point the layers to fall by elevating this straight up it's going to make everything below the occipital fall off very very quickly we're going to take the shear and we chose a really long shear for this reason we're going to create these really deep peaks and valleys with this kind of compressed large section cutting now if you're not that dramatic with your movement you're not going to see the texture as it falls back down into its natural fall and that's one of the ways that we can soften up the fact that we're taking is such a big large heavy section so next let's pick up everything from the bottom elevate it to the exact same point make sure our body is standing directly across from that triangle and really nothing fits so I'm just going to kind of define out those peaks and valleys a little bit more you can see they're really really strong separations there watch what happens as this falls back down though those peaks and valleys soften but you can still see a ton of texture now because that's such a big section a big wide section especially from here to here and we're cutting it kind of square it's naturally gonna create a little bit of a short too long within that section so even from section to section we're gonna have this kind of up-and-down movement that happens so let's go to the back left quadrant we'll take our clip out we'll add that to the front just keep it nice and secure take our section across the occipital there we're gonna go ahead and pick up just a little bit of the other side but make sure that you're picking up a piece of the other side at the crown because that's your guiding point make sure that my body is standing directly across from the point of the triangle a little bit straight up towards the ceiling there's my guide from the other side and then again make sure that when you're doing this it is super dramatic and you can see now why it's so important to have that super super long blade on the shear what I think is so cool about these streamlined shears is they're just incredibly sharp they're super lightly it's super comfortable but you can blast through a ton of hair with these things now we're gonna pick up that last little bit of hair from the perimeter again I'll have eight straight up towards the ceiling make sure I don't have anything that's gonna fit in there I don't so it's just maybe you like strengthen up some of those peaks and valleys to make them really dramatic watch as they fall now here's what's so cool that's four sections of cutting that took me all of I don't know a few minutes even with me teaching and look at how thoroughly and beautifully layered that is that's what's so cool with this compressed cutting because since the elevation and the compression of the hair softens that layer there's just little that you have to do afterwards it's kind of a one step in you're done kind of haircut now when would something like this not work it would not work if you're looking for something with a little bit more structure and precision to it then you've got to slow down and go into smaller sections but for this it just works absolutely perfect alright so now we're going to go to the front that'd be her front left quadrant again take a section across that quadrant and now look at where the point is it's over here so I'm gonna get my section and then I'm gonna step to the opposite side so that the point isn't all straight towards my chest so that I'm consistent with my elevation in our direction straight up towards the ceiling it might look kind of diagonal to you because you're looking at it this way but what I'm looking at is that it's coming straight out from the section and then from this view that's straight up towards the ceiling hope that makes sense there's kind of a side-to-side motion more of an overcorrection and there's also the elevation which is straight up to the ceiling the side-to-side motion we want to just keep it straight out from the head we over direct it back to that crown point we're going to pick up a small piece right here from the crown from our previously cut section as our guide and that's all we really need we don't need a huge guide section as long as we have a piece for where to start our length we are set there's my shortest point so again we're going to go in and just get rid of some of this length so you can see better we're gonna go in and really notch this baby out with super deep peaks and valleys no need to soften this because again as it reaches all the way over here to go back to its natural fall it's gonna soften itself out so we may even want to just take one more section because that's still gonna be a lot of hair to pick up if we don't subsection it so we'll turn this into three sections here in the front elevate that straight up towards the ceiling over directing to that point in the crown there's the guide from the back and again super deep peaks and valleys this can be a little bit intimidating and it's kind of funny when we teach this kind of cutting in classes people are so scared to make those big big peaks and valleys but we just have to remember that this is not where it lives now if we were down here cutting big peaks in valleys you would see this strength the strength in the structure of those but because it's being moved away from its natural fall so dramatically you're not gonna see that so I'm just a few little hairs to cut there I'll let that fall now you can really start to see that beautiful layering pattern come alive in here so cool what's also fun about this is the clients reaction so if you've never done anything like this before with your guests the first time you do this they're kind of gonna be like what are you doing like that's just weird and it's and it's funny how perceptive they are to those little changes sometimes because we think that they're just sitting there reading their magazine hanging out jabbering away but they're especially their subconscious is really picking up everything that's happening and they'll kind of feel it they'll be like wow you've never done that before especially if you've been doing their hair for a while so this is a great way to wake yourself up and have some fun but it's also a really killer way to wake up the clientele and make sure they're having fun they also need to see that you yourself are changing and progressing so there's our points in the crown there's this section we're gonna turn her so that I can pull this straight to my sternum so that triangle that point of the triangle is coming straight towards me there's a good view of that elevation there's the guide and then I don't typically do this but I want you to be able to see the cutting line so we're gonna drop it down so that you can see in those big peaks and valleys the in my finger angle is just a pretty much a straight line so we're utilizing again the natural curvature of the head because I'm cutting a straight line here but the head is curving underneath it it's creating these natural short and long points now these are some of the things that we've almost been taught not to do when we when we look at things like precision kind of minded cutting and for good reason you know if you're looking for real precise and you one thing everything to be matching matching and perfect perfect then cutting like this is not going to give you that but we're using that to our advantage because we want texture and we want movement points is straight towards my chest bring it back to that crown right out of the crown that's going straight up towards the ceiling there's the shortest point and we'll cut our peaks and valleys grab that last piece make sure that it's not gonna fit back there and yeah there's nothing there there's kind of like a couple little wispy hairs but nothing major that all drops back down now what's cool too is you preserve a lot of length around the face so that leaves you wide open to you put any kind of face framing the fringe anything like that you'd want in there one last step just take a couple sections across from side to side make sure that you don't have anything that's just like totally wacky out of shape there that's all pretty good there's maybe like a little long point there don't go too crazy with this because remember you did all of this so that it is really kind of random and you can see that shape so because we cut a straight line in a straight line on a curved surface it creates those Peaks now you don't necessarily want to cut those Peaks out because that's part of the movement of the haircut so not only do you have the ups and downs of the peaks and valleys but you also have the ups and downs of just the overall length of the shape so let's recap shall we first thing create a section from the forehead to the center an eighth then from the center of the crown to the top of the ear diagonal creating four equal quadrants if you want to have your shortest point on the top of the head you absolutely could move that point to there and just do the exact same thing you can also change the elevation you can change the over directions there's lots and lots of ways to get creative with this overall shape but on this one basically we've just created a point at the center that everything comes to stand with that point facing your sternum and keep a flat cutting line with your fingers so that it utilizes roundness of the head to create those ups and downs and shorts and lumps when you do that make sure you grab a long pair of shears so that you can create those deep peaks and valleys if you do not have a nice long pair of shears and let's say you just have kind of like Shorty's you could potentially work from the inside out with kind of a pinch and talk sort of motion and that could give you those deep peaks and valleys that you're looking for from there just work around each quadrant really all you need is that little piece from the center to base your length off of you don't really look for an actual guide with this haircut except for just that center point from there she should be pretty set because you've used such a highly textured process that there shouldn't be a lot of texturizing after the fact that means done maybe you'll need to remove a little weight because of imbalances and the natural hair growth or something like that but for the most part she should be pretty ready to go now of course with this kind of finish a little bit of wax blast ends gonna wake it right it up so take the hair just give it a little bit of a shake as we drop it we'll just put that wax blast right through the ends mainly we want to focus things like waxes on the ends and the mid strand not the base give her a nice little shake pardon her back for a second while I make her look all nice for the reveal here and she's a rocker so it's just a really fun way to get this awesome layering pattern and do it really fast cuz let's face it sometimes behind the chair we just have to get stuff done we need to get them and we need to get them out whether it's their schedule they were late we're running late whatever it is but sometimes we also have to choose our technique based on I don't have two hours to do this haircut so this is a great way to get beautiful texture beautiful movement and do it in about six sections so have some fun with this let us know what you think in the comments you know we love to hear from you guys thanks so much for watching I'm Andrew Carruthers education director for Cynthia [Music]

Channel: Sam Villa Hair Tutorials

Views: 399,029

Rating: 4.9136953 out of 5

Keywords: simple long layer haircut, long layer haircut, how to layer long hair, long layered haircut, long layered hair, long layers haircut 2019, cutting long layers, point cutting hair, hair education, hair cutting tutorial, layering fine hair, layering thick hair, how to section hair, how to section hair for haircut, sam villa, sam villa education, how to hair, redken, hair tips, hair video, hair, fast layering, how to layer my hair

Id: qR8Gj27ga1U

Length: 16min 32sec (992 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 12 2019