The Cosmos II COMPLETE Build

[Music] hi my name is Carrie holzman I'm the co-host of a free podcast called tech bets it's available at WWF it's calm tech bets is just short for veterans of Technology because myself and my good friend and co-host Mike Smith have well over 20 years of experience in the IT industry and we each run our own businesses on opposite ends of the country I'm here in Arizona Mike's out in Pennsylvania and the way we approach our businesses is completely different so if you're thinking about getting in the business you're already in the business or you're in any business really that you're self-employed you can take away some of the tips warnings and our experiences that we share our tales from the trenches everything from taxes and other paperwork to dealing with difficult customers setting customer expectations dealing with late payments etc etc and we run the show about once a week sometimes once every other week depending on our schedules it's completely free and I think that if you enjoy my videos here on YouTube I think you'll enjoy my podcast as well so check it out it's free what have you got to lose now it's time to begin the build that a lot of you have been really looking forward to utilizing this gigantic cosmos to ultra tower case from Coolermaster this thing is huge according to the box it weighs 26 kilograms that's empty in the box which is right around 58 pounds now look at this thing I mean sitting on the counter it's taller than me of course that's not really saying much but trust me it's it's still a big case now what parts are we putting in this bad boy well we're putting some amazing parts in here let's start with the you know like let's not some things I'm sorry something's not right you know since I walked in this room there's like a disturbance in my shuang fee I can't explain it there's just something that's not oh haha very funny no I don't think so mmm-hmm I got to take care of this I'll be right back [Music] all right you know what enough of that mm yeah I feel better you know speaking of my love of coca-cola one of my viewers just sent me this coca-cola sign how cool is that so Zeke if you're out there watching thank you so much I really appreciate it this looks like I'm not your helmet I mounted it looks like what they put on the on the fountain machines you know when you go to the restaurants and you have to get your own drink I think that's where it comes from but I got to find a place for this I'm just gonna stick it right here for right now now know that I don't have any paid sponsors so when you see goofy stuff like that that's just me being a nerd all right so I don't want you to think for a minute I'm getting a dime from coke it's it's quite the other way around I assure you cokes getting a lot of money for me but anyway let's get on with our bill so let's talk about the parts we're going to be putting into this monster case here start with motherboard which is right down here we've got Anna soos p9 x79 Pro this is about a three hundred and ten dollar motherboard I mean we're not screwing around on this build it's a a great motherboard and the owner of this computer was actually getting ready to buy his board and he almost bought an ass rock board that's like dude just know all these other parts are so high-end don't go cheap on your motherboard as rock you know if you're on a budget or whatever it'll it'll do in a pinch but stick with a soos or gigabyte that's exactly what he did and this is a socket 2011 board so the CPU were using which is way over here right reach it this is the core i7 39 70 X this is interesting I've not seen a retail box CPU that does not come with a heat sink fan and this one does not first time I've seen that and this CPU is $1,000 just for this little chip right here why is this such a monster well he's going to be using it for video editing so he needs the speed as much as possible and and even then you'll probably still want a little bit more speed and we're going to combine that with the the RAM here and this is 32 gigs of PC 319 200 it's a kit of 4 8 gig modules this is the muskan redline series so not cheap stuff we're going to keep the CPU cool with the corsair water cooler the h 100 i that you see there and those are about 100 bucks now so they've come they've come down in price and for a hard drive he's got the main boot drive to be an Intel to 480 gig solid-state drive that bang was close to $1,000 back when they were introduced not sure what they sell for today I think that particular model might be discontinued as is the video card we're using I think this model has been discontinued too this is the geforce gtx 680 want to say that's somewhere between four and five hundred dollars on a video card power supply is like gigantic 1250 watts see sonic that's about a $250 power supply by the way combined with a blu-ray player this is a pioneer this is about $85 and Windows 7 Ultimate which we have right here and then what he also wants is a 2 regular hard drives in a raid array so he's picked up some Seagate constellation Enterprise drives these are about 200 bucks apiece they're 2 terabytes each we're going to configure these into a raid 0 which combines the two drives into one large drive and then each Drive does half the work which theoretically gives you twice the performance doesn't exactly work out that way but that's the idea behind it I've talked about raid in previous video and I'll put a link to that if you want to learn more about what rate is and how it works the danger of running a raid 0 is in exchange for that performance if either drive should fail he'll lose the data on both drives so it's important if you're running raid 0 that you run a regular backup of anything that's important to you now with the introduction of the parts out of the way it's time for me to get to work so let me clean up this counter and get it ready for us to work on and most importantly let me get this case out of its box and I don't want to film myself doing that because I'm sure it's going to be quite humorous so I'll be right back alright so as you can see I've got the case out of the box and I've left some of the components out that we can install first which is our optical drive hard drives and power supply those would be the the easiest things to install and get out of the way now once I get everything installed in this I have no idea how I'm going to pick it up and get it off the counter but across that bridge when we get to it let's take a minute now and look at some of the features of the case now looking up here at the very top of the case we've got our headphone output microphone input there's an eSATA port 2 USB 3 S 4 USB 2.0 and what you may not see up here on the top this part kind of moves forward and back and in all your lights and your sweet power switch is all right up here I don't know exactly why they covered that up maybe to hide the lights or to protect the buttons I'm not sure but at least is better than a case store in my opinion I don't think that's as likely to break off you'll see we've got these bay covers here that just come right off and then we've got two harddrive trays that are removable that have a key to lock them in place so we'll probably go ahead and utilize these for the this raid 0 configuration so that if one of the drives does fail he'll be easily easily able to remove that and replace it let me put this back now this bottom panel also slides straight up like this to cover things up for a cleaner look again I still like this better than a typical swinging case tour the cases that come with case stores I try to avoid I've explained in the past they often break off and if the case door swings to the left and you put your computer on the right side it gets in the way of accessing anything you've got up front on the front of the computer so having a case store like this that slides up and down is pretty nice it looks like it's got a little left magnets on the top here and that just kind of grabs it and holds it in place it's a nice touch now looking on the back of the case we've got ten slot Bay covers here for accommodating a very large motherboard we've got our cutout for the i/o shield which is of course needed every case is going to have that got some grommets here for I suppose if you've got a custom water cooler you could use those power supply mount is down here and then the covers are a tool list design it looks like you just push down on the lever and then the side panel comes well look at that it's hide panel just swings open like the door on a car that's pretty cool we'll grab the other side and let's open the other side up now if there was ever a time to be intimidated by cabling I'd say this is it right here this big old bundle of cables right here has all your fan connectors your front port switches iOS as well as the removable drive trays are all hardwired in and they just got them all wrapped up right here but don't worry about that because we won't get to that till much later anyway and it's not as big of a deal as it may seem but if you look at how many fans we've got I mean my gosh there's a fan up here we've got two fans here which I guess are going to come out there's a fan up front a large one and there's probably some more down under here we've got some documentation more documentation which probably goes over a lot more features of this case than then I've done here this is the first time I'm seeing this case you're getting my first impression of it right now there are some removable drive trays here which is a nice design I really like the way those come out and go back in again and we've got two boxes of parts that's interesting what do we have in here let's take a look and see what they give us we have a thumbscrew I don't know what this is we've got a couple of rails for something I don't know what for yet and we've got a ziploc bag with some nylon zip ties it looks like lots of them and wire holding Clips a couple of power supply adapters and of course all our screws and the keys for locking and unlocking those removable drive bays up front so that's in that box and then another box over here alright so let me open up this one and let's see what we got in here it looks like it's the exact same thing we've got more screws and keys I don't know if maybe they they might a double packed this by mistake and it was only supposed to get one I'm not exactly sure it looks like it looks like he's got two now I'll make a disclaimer here that this case was purchased directly from coolermaster as a refurbished case scratch and dent type thing and there doesn't seem to be a thing wrong with it so I'm pretty sure we're going to have some extra parts that's okay rather have extra parts than not enough parts that's for sure now one of the other things I just realized on this case is there's a little latch right here and we grabbed that we can open that up and look at this there's room for some more drives 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 now a couple good things about working on a case this big is that you're not going to have the cramping issues or heat issues that you have in there like a mini ITX case it should run nice and cool and it should be plenty of room for us to get our hands in there and to work on it you know whether we're initially building it or working on it in the future for any repairs or future upgrades should be a pleasure to work on this case now the first thing we can install very easily is our power supply again this is a C Sonic 1250 watt power supply it's a pretty serious power supply here the way the box opens just going to swings open like this and inside you'll see we've got a bag of cables here it comes out and underneath the foam we've got our owner's manual warranty information and support we've got some nylon zip ties and some screws and a sticker that I guess if you put your computer if you put the sticker on your computer it'll make it go faster and what I thought initially was a bottle of Crown Royal is actually our power supply in this evelle vut crushed-velvet bag here whoo that is a beauty though isn't it look at that and like the other sea sonic power supply I worked on on a previous build they've got the writing facing up here and the writing upside down here unless you turn it around this way and then the writings right side up here and upside down here but it's right side up here I don't know what they're thinking got a gigantic on/off switch that's pretty cool I like that all right let's get this thing put in the case now if you're wondering where the cables are on the power supply this is a modular power supply meaning on the back here you're only going to plug in the cables you need so that prevents having to tie up all these excess cables which you know what in this case there's plenty of room to tie up excess cables but hey you know what if you're going to spend the money and might as well do it how much money well I guess I didn't get to that in the beginning there's about $4,000 pretty close to $4,000 with the parts in this build so you definitely don't want to cheap out and and and put a $20 power supply in here and the owner of these parts most certainly did not cheap out that's for sure so the modular power supply is going to be very easy to install because we don't have to deal with you know pinching any cables or getting the cables fed in like we do with a typical power supply and then the screws that I'm going to use I'm going to use the ones that came with the power supply some power supplies come with their own screws some don't you can use the ones that came with the case it's fine generally when a device comes with its own screws I prefer to use those screws because sometimes there are issues with the length of the screw on some devices it's not going to be a problem with the power supply this is just kind of a formality I could just as easily go through the big bag of screws that came with this case and find basically the four same screws this power supply came with they're pretty standard in this build I'm going to be using my panasonic ey 7410 electric screwdriver I just love this bad boy it's just can't say enough good things about it if you have to buy one electric screwdriver and you're going to use it a lot to justify the cost this is the one to get right now now check out how easy it is to install the power supply in this case I don't even need to open the side panels up there are just four thumb screws that hold this bracket in place we take those out [Applause] now just take your power supply make sure you got it oriented in the right direction I want it with the intake fan which is here on the on this side I want this down so it'll draw air in from the bottom of the case bring in cold air from outside and you just take this bracket we removed and it's going to fit right over the top like that then we're going to take those screws and put one in each corner [Music] now we just simply pick up the power supply with the bracket on it and slide it right back on I'm going to put those four thumb screws right back in now the screwdriver that I'm using has an auto off clutch which means when it hits the torque setting I've set for it you'll hear the screwdriver turn off I currently got the clutch setting set on three which you can just see right there and that ensures that none of the screws are being over tightened or for that matter under tightened now how's that for about the easiest power supply install ever now with our power supply installed the next thing we can put in very easily will be the blu-ray drive so I need to open the side panel up again so I just push that lever down and you'll see the side panel opens and let me just turn this so you can see it a little better now the side panel here actually has a couple grooves on the top and if we grab those and lift up or just get it from the bottom you can see the whole panel can come off which is going to make filming this a lot easier but it's nice that the the panel comes off like that and you can see just how thick this panel is which I imagine is going to result in this computer running very very quietly you can also see there's some holes if I can hold it right back up really have to back up to get this thing on the camera you can mount a couple of 120 millimeter fans right here if you want to bring air in and blow that on your onto your video card that'd be about the right right place there for that we won't be doing that on this build you won't need it but just nice to know that it's there we can actually mount the optical drive in any of these three bays here I like to choose the top one I think that's where it looks best these are super easy to remove just put your finger behind the latch and then just pull it straight off go ahead and put this away somewhere you never know in the future if you might want to remove the optical drive at some point for some reason maybe in the future we don't use them which I'm sure will eventually happen and this case is going to last really long time so you want to have that as an option to cover that back up should you decide to remove the optical drive out at any point so here I've got our optical drive let's see what we get in the box if I don't drop it on the floor that would be helpful wouldn't it what do we have in here got a little bag of screws that's good we've got some warranty information we'll set that right over there and then right inside here and see that so the drives packed pretty well in there I enter is not screwing around when they pack their drives that's for sure and I haven't seen I've seen hard drives that are packed that well and this is nowhere near as fragile as a hard drive then inside we've got the drive itself some lot more documentation and something else in this box there's a there's a CyberLink media suite disk which I'm not going stall but I'll give it to the customer if he wants to put it on and that's all there is for that box now installing this blu-ray drive is very simple on this case we just slide it into the front until it's flush and on the side here you see that you've got these basically like like little buttons and if you just line it up right you should be able to push the button in and it locks the drive into place in fact you know by pressing these in and out it's hard to tell if it's locked or not locked you're not going to know so if I press it again I can release it and you'll see now if it's locked the drive won't go all the way in it'll it'll stop about I don't know about a quarter of the way and it stops so just press that to release it don't force it so if the drives not easily sliding into place this may be in the lock position you just may have hit it by mistake or it may have happened at some point and then again don't force this in if it's not going down that means the drives not lined up right with the holes behind it so just move the drive in a little bit and then it should just click right into place very easy now even though I'm not going to be shipping this computer and thank goodness because it's very heavy I can't even imagine what that would cost to ship I do have to deliver it to its owner that was way on the other side of town so I'm not comfortable just having the optical drive held in with the tool is design on the other side of the case there is a place for two mounting screws which are completely optional and up to you but I'll feel better securing that drive in with the screws knowing that that drive is not going to budge and it's very easy to do so just turn the case around here so once again we just push that button down to release the other side panel okay let me rotate this around so you can see what I'm doing now if you look closely you'll see we've got the mounting point here and here I'm going to grab two of the screws two with a four that came with the optical drive and I'm going to go ahead and just put those two screws in let me just warn you if you're following along with me with the same parts pioneer seems to have included a number one Phillips type screw with their blu-ray drive typically computers use the number two Phillips which is a bit wider of a tip and it'd be really easy to just rip these out if you use the number two Phillips bit so best to use a number one Phillips bit or use the screws that came with the case instead but just be careful that you use the right bit or you could easily strip them out or just have difficulty even getting them tightened trying to use a number two Phillips bit next we can install our solid-state drive so I'm go ahead and take this on the box and let's see what Intel gives you with your solid-state drive pretty thick box let's see attention observe precautions for handling electrostatic sensitive devices the solid-state drive isn't really an electrostatic sensitive device and you can see they've got it in an anti-static bag here which is completely unnecessary because as you'll see when I remove it from the bag if I can get out of that there are no exposed electronics on it it's it's completely sealed so as long as you avoid touching these gold contacts of the SATA connectors there's really nothing you can do to to harm this as far as electrostatic discharge you'll see on that wearing an anti-static strap and nothing we've installed so far would matter if you got a static shock on it or not it's not going to hurt it so that's just kind of boilerplate corporate speak just a standard disclaimer so let me just set that down this also fell out this is a clay DISA can't throw away well if you say so alright there's our empty box what else do we have in here some other stuff in chain well look at this we've got a giant sticker yeah I'm going to put that on a 350 dollar computer case installation instructions got to have those until data migration software just set that there inside they've included a SATA data cable which is nice they've included some coarse thread mounting screws some fine thread mounting screws a molex to SATA power converter which we won't need and a mounting tray adapter which seems to be in there pretty good so you can get that out well that's cool they put a a hole in the back of the box you can actually just push it out that way well thank you that was well thought out now this two and a half inch to three and a half inch drive adapter is something we don't have to use but actually I'm going to use it because it's going to make the installation removal of the solid-state drive a lot easier for any future work let me show you what I'm talking about now here's a closer look at everything that comes with the solid state drive from Intel and the SATA cable we aren't going to need because the motherboard comes with six of these and we're only hooking up for drive so we can just put this away we aren't going to use it and this power adapter is something we clearly won't need because the power supply we've got will provide plenty of the right power connectors we won't need to adapt any of them so these two parts can just be put away of course the sticker you do with that what you want I'm not putting any stickers on it now while we're getting rid of stuff we can go ahead and get rid of this bag of screws that has the coarse threaded mounting screws we won't be using those at all so when put those away this bag of screws with as the fine threads on we'll be using those here shortly to mount the two and a half inch drive into the three and a half inch adapter is very very simple the only thing you really need to pay attention to is that this adapter you'll see is not the same on both sides there is a front and a back to it and if you look this side here where these little grooves are see the distance from the groove to the edge of the plate and on this side see the distance from the end of this groove to the plate this is going to be the back of the drive so when we mount this in if we've got it backwards it won't mount in properly and you'll have to take the screws out and turn it around so best to do it right the first time right so we're going to grab the solid-state drive and by the back of the drive I mean where the SATA connectors are we want to make sure that faces the back of the plate which is where the grooves are closest to the edge now there notice on two and a half inch drives all two and a half inch drives not only have mounting holes on the side but they've also got mounting holes on the bottom so if I just turn the drive upside down like this and we'll just put the adapter right on top of it like that now that bag of screws had five screws in it we only need four so it's nice that Intel throws in an extra one because you never know and you'll notice I'm going to use my mechanical driver and I'm going to start these screws it's not that my electric driver would really hurt this at all but it is very expensive and even though it's not really a delicate device I just feel a lot better knowing the value of it that I have full control over exactly how much torque I'm putting on these screws now we've got all four started you can see the drive can move back and forth and I want the drive pushed this way as much as possible so that our cables can go on a lot easier so I'm actually on just whole bat with pressure on it in this direction and just go ahead and tighten these screws down now don't over tighten the screws you just wanted to be just a little past snug and you'll see that's the drive properly mounted into its adapter now with the solid state drive mounted in its adapter installing into the case is very simple in fact the toughest part of it is just deciding where you want to put it because you've got a lot of options you can put it in any of these five Bay's here or any of the six space here so you got to think about your cabling what that's going to look like now initially I thought I would put the mechanical drives right up here in the two removable drive bays but that actually doesn't make any sense because the removable drive bays are four drives you're going to take out and put in all the time sort of like a having a backup that you would normally use like an external USB Drive for you wouldn't need the added expense of the external enclosure you could just pop a drive in there and do your backups that way so I don't want to consume those with his raid zero configuration which once it's installed shouldn't need to be removed or anything unless something's wrong with it or he's going to upgrade it and they've made the installation and removal of drive so easy anyway I've decided that I think the mechanical drive should go in front of this fan with his intake fan is here so maybe these two bottom place to bottom ports and for the cabling to look as clean as possible they think the solid-state drive then should go right here just below where I'm going to put the two mechanical drives and so to show you how easy this is to install you just push this latch back and this little door swings open and the whole tray slides out you'll see this tray flexes real easy and all we have to do is take our solid-state drive and you'll see there are some tabs that stick up here and the tabs are going to line up with the holes in the mounting tray and you flex this to get it where you need it to be to get into the other mounting holes on the other side you'll see the way that this adapter fits in there it's going to stick out just a bit and the little set of connectors or stick out a little bit like I say earlier it's going to make the cables easier to install since you're not going to have to and them in the tight spot between the bottom of the adapter and the and the connector itself and again we didn't have to use the adapter these trays do have the four mounting holes if we want to do screw the solid-state drive down in place on the adapter but this will make it easier to change out in the future so we've got it we might as well use it and we just simply slide that right back into its track solid-state drive is installed now if you thought that was easy where do you see how easy it is to put our mechanical drives in let me just close that back the way it was because we're done there again decide where you want to put your drive so I've already decided I'm going to use these two bottom trays so I'll take the first tray out grab my drive make sure that the SATA connectors are facing the open part of this adapter and I get this on camera you'll see that there's the two steel posts that stick out line it up with the mounting holes and then you just flex this as you need to to get the other mounting points recessed into the holes in the drive now just be aware that the little metal posts that lock into the drive they're completely removable they may shift around as you mount the drive into the tray so check it to make sure that they're sitting flush here on both sides and then it should slide right back in with ease if there's anything that's you know if you're trying to feed it in there and it's just not going in take it back out and check that again you don't want to force anything it should really just be that easy so easy I want to do it twice it was just so much fun I can't get enough so we're just going to do the exact same thing with the other drive line up the the posts there with the holes on the drive and then flex the tray so you can get those posts and get your good camera angle on it to line up with the drive and you'll see how that one just kind of shifted right there I want to make sure that gets fully seated right it's nice and flush check that on both sides interesting that that you can actually hear it when it clicked into place properly and again we just slide that right into its tray close the door all our drives are installed I got to tell you so far in spite of this case being very big and intimidating this has got to be one of the easiest cases so far that I have ever worked on in my 20-plus years of doing this next grab your motherboard box and the only thing we want to take out of here is our i/o shield now what they've done with this motherboard is they've placed it into its own cardboard tray on a lot of motherboards most of them the instruction manuals and such are on top with the motherboard on bottom this one they put the motherboard on top so I've got to take that out and then all of our cables and everything that come with the board are located below it what I want is the i/o shield which is this metal bracket right here and we'll just put the rest of this away for right now because we're not quite ready for that yet I'll just take the i/o shield out of the plastic bag it comes in get rid of the bag and a little close-up of the i/o shield looks like this we've got the USB ports up on top sometimes there'll be a ps2 port on some motherboards for a keyboard or a mouse the top of the i/o shield is typically where the keyboard or mouse ports are but because this one doesn't have that it's just all USB I know that the bottom is where the audio ports are where you see these six holes this is the bottom of the i/o shield that's how you know which direction it goes in if you put it in upside down it's no big deal to just pop it out and turn it around it's just held in with the friction now to install the i/o shield is very simple on just about any case making sure you've got it in the right direction just reach in there and it should just click right into position now that's all I need to do with the case at this point so what I'm going to do is just get it out of my way I'm going to go ahead and put the door back on it and then set it aside because we need to work on the motherboard and get that ready to be installed next now putting our side panel back on is very simple you'll see we've got some of these little metal tabs that are sticking out on the side here sure you can get a really good angle on that at any event they just go right into these grooves it just slips right down into position and we can close that and get this case out of our way now it's time to prep our motherboard to get it ready to be installed in the case now to do this part we need the CPU check we need the RAM check and of course we need the motherboard so I've already showed you the inside of the box here it's open it up again and you see they've got the motherboard right here on top lift that up and show you we can just lift the board put the box the board is in take that completely out and inside the box you'll see we've got a bridging SLI connector for bridging to Nvidia cards together now here's one I haven't seen before this is a 3-way SLI bridging connector for hooking three Nvidia cards together the board also supports crossfire as well we've got two four six SATA cables we've got these really cool quick disconnect adapters for the front foot front port bilikiss and USB and that's cool because I'm going to show you how to use those later on and they're really a neat idea and of course we've got all of our documentation what's great is I like to keep all the spare parts or the parts were not yet using in the motherboard box and by taking the motherboard out first all the parts are already remaining in the box I don't have to move everything around like I typically do when the parts are traditionally sitting on top of the motherboard I take the parts out take the board out put the parts back in in this case a lot easier so I'm going to take the board out of its its little box here of course it's wrapped in an anti-static bag make sure and touch something metal on the case if you're not wearing an anti-static strap make sure you're not doing this on carpeting and when you grab the board you want to hold it as much as possible by edges and heat sinks what I'm doing to get it out of the bag and I'm going to just place the motherboard right on the box and let's get you a better close up camera angle here of installing the parts onto the board so here's a top-down view of the motherboard the CPU and the memory and one of the tools a lot of people don't realize you're going to need more than likely when you're building a computer is band-aids I just got a cardboard cut on that box so you know you got to be tough when you're building these machines so I have some band-aids standing by and my experience when you need band-aid that's good that means you're close to being done oh really about halfway there at this point now there are some stickers on the motherboard that have to be removed and just boasting about some of the motherboards features I can hold that where you can see it that's just trash another one here those are just covering up the RAM sockets you'll see we've got two sets of four on this board now the first component we can install onto the motherboard is our CPU and installing a socket 2011 CPU is a little bit different from socket 1150 or 1155 if you've seen any of my previous builds this is kind of interesting because traditionally on a socket 1150 or a socket 1155 or any of the previous sockets really you just have this one little load lever and you push it down in a way and then the whole top of this opens up the retention plate but they really win heavy duty on a socket 2011 maybe because of its size because it's quite a bit bigger but you've got another load lever on the opposite side facing the opposite direction so once you release this one with the hook on it then you go to the other side and release this one next see how there's two of those and then you have to push this one back down again but you don't lock it down you just push it down and you'll see that top comes up we can just go ahead and lift that top up and that exposes apparently 2011 little tiny pins underneath which are exceptionally delicate you know if I if you heard me say that 11:55 czar delicate imagine 2011 little teeny tiny pins so keep your fingers away you don't want to snag any you know like your shirt sleeve or anything on there that'll just trash it now I'm going to grab our thousand dollar core i7 39 70 X CPU and let's take it out of the box well I don't know $1000 it's pretty pricey better be careful they'll nervous actually I'm not it is stuff all the time all the chips install the same whether it's a hundred dollar chip or a thousand dollar chip or a ten thousand dollar chip they're all pretty much the same so let's go ahead and see what we get with our thousand dollar processor here shall we open that up that box is empty we've got to go faster sticker see if you put that sticker on your computer it go faster pretty much the same little instruction booklet that Intel includes that I've never ever read and I can't imagine what could possibly be in there that would be of any value to anybody maybe an engineer let's open that up and that exposes the CPU which is in a plastic case just like all the other CPUs you can see it's quite a bit larger that's almost 2 inches square which is almost twice the size of a regular when I say regular but of the Haswell chip let's say so you get your finger underneath one of those tabs there and just lift that straight up and then you'll see there's two indentations in the plastic here which we can get our fingers on and get that out and once again you want to avoid touching the top or the bottom of the CPU you'll see me handle it by the edges and you see me handle it it appears to be a delicate way there's nothing delicate about the CPU it's the CPU is a solid-state component it can be dropped and kicked it's going to be fine we're not going to drop and kick $1,000 CPU but it would be fine if we did I'm not recommending that you do it the reason I'm holding it like this is because I want to keep my fingers off of the heat spreader on top and I want to keep my fingers off of the contacts on the bottom of the little landings there now to orient the CPU in the right direction is very simple on a socket 2011 you'll see in the in the corner here there's a gold arrow and on this corner right down here on the socket plate there is also an arrow so those two arrows are going to go together like this also just to make sure you don't screw it up there are little notches here on the CPU and there are different distance away from the edge so if you tried to put the CPU in this way these these little notches won't line up with tabs and so you really don't want to experiment with that because as I mentioned these are very delicate so what I'm going to do is just put one end in here first and what I'm doing here is just lining up the little tabs with the holes now I'm just going to gently set it down and it should just seat right into position and I can grab the edge here and just make sure it doesn't really shift left or right and it's looking pretty good so we can go ahead and lower the retention cap down and raise this a load lever up and now we can bring this is a little confusing I can push down on the the lid here and then bring the other load lever down and lock it into position and it is springy as you can tell and I'm doing it away from me when you're doing this you probably want to turn your motherboard as you need to so that the load lever is facing you as this one is facing me and then we'll just put that load lever back down and that plastic top should pop off it didn't but we gave a little boost and you want to make sure you keep this they call it a PNP cover this protects those little pins anytime there's a CPU removed from the socket so if you ever take the CPU out and you're going to leave the CPU out for any period of time put the cover back on it the manufacturer will not honor the warranty if the board is sent in for warranty work without that cover in place next we can install our memory and for the best performance where you install the memory in dual channel in each of these memory banks now how do you know which of these sockets to use what you're going to refer to your motherboard manual depending on how much memory you've got we've got four sticks eight gigs of peace and the manual specifies to use sockets a1 b1 c1 and d1 or as they're laid out on the board a 1 B 1 D 1 and C 1 and you'll see written on the board and very fine lettering it says dim a 1 D ma to dim B 1 then B 2 and over here for this Bank listed in the order that they're that they're you know in it says dim D to dim D 1 M C 1 C 2 dim C 1 basically to make matters simple we're going to use the blue sockets now the memory on this board installs a little differently if you've seen how I've installed memory on other boards even though it's the same memory these little retention tabs that pop over to the side normally you have those on both sides and on this board these on the other side don't move so I just need the blue ones open now we're going to get our memory here another 350 dollars with a memory that open all right let's get this opened up now you can pick up the memory anywhere on the heat spreader just want to avoid touching the circuit the circuit board let's get that out of there there's one you'll see there's a notch in one side there's a notch in the memory and I'm going to start with the one farthest from me and we'll just plug that in push down one corner then the other corner and there's eight gigs of memory installed and we're going to repeat this for the next one again orient that in the right direction set it in its socket straight up and then one corner then the other corner there's the 16 gigs of memory this might pretty quays a lot all right let's see we're going to go to this next socket which actually if you notice the the ram is turned opposite of this Ram so that's why you got to pay attention to where that groove is that it lines up with that socket actually I'm going to start with the one closest to me here so that you guys can see it a little better so I'll put that one in in its track don't try and push it down until it's seated in its track properly then one corner other corner and finally do the exact same thing here and the other blue socket the last remaining blue socket so we've got 8 16 24 32 gigs of memory installed now because we're using the H 100 I water cooler we can't put that in until after the motherboards mounted in the case so at this point our motherboard is prepped and ready to be installed in the case now to install our motherboard is going to be easier if the case is laying flat down it doesn't have to but to work with gravity is just a lot easier so because the case is so big what I want to do is clear this counter off because anything that's on this counter may get knocked over well I'm trying to get this case ready because what I've got to do now is take off both doors and lay the case flat so let me get the motherboard safely out of the danger zone here danger zone already and turn this around so you can see what I'm doing and it's the same process we're just going to push down this lever swing the door open we can grab the handles on top and pop the door right off and we're going to set that down very gently and we'll do the same thing with the other side next I can rotate this around it's a little lighter now actually and let's go ahead and turn it all the way around we want this is our motherboard tray here the motherboard tray unfortunately is not removable which would make this job a little easier if I had one complaint with this case so far it would be that doesn't have a removable motherboard tray because the overall size of this case does make it a bit more physical to get it into the position to get the motherboard ready for mounting so let me just go ahead and turn this around so you can see the front of it here we're going to lay it down in this direction I'm going to close these hinges because I don't want to scratch my countertop and very gently just going to lay the case down now laying this case down as you can see it doesn't lay flat it's got a wobble to it but it's still going to make installing the motherboard easier now the first step in installing our board is to just get this cabling out of the way and it doesn't really matter what you do with it you can remove the twist tie in fact I think that's what I want to do is undo this twist tie and it's a wire tie which has got metal in it and we don't want this in the case anyway because it could eventually break free and short something out and another one right here let's go ahead and get these off of here we're going to take this big bunch of cables and just drape it over the side don't worry about where they go or what they do at this point we're just going to get them out of our way we don't want to trap any cables underneath the motherboard and we're installing it get rid of it and you can see we got a little bit of a strange tangle here there it is okay get all that out of the way it's like a surgeon and I get this fan power connector out of the way and get another fan power connector that looks like it's going to get in the way so we'll remove that wire tie as well and drape that over that side now we've got to figure out is where the motherboard standoffs go and this is where you want to be really careful you only want to put a motherboard standoff where there's a matching hole in the board if the motherboard standoff hits the back of the motherboard when you apply power to it you can toast your motherboard and that would not be good especially when you've got as much money invested in your system as this person does so I'm going to grab our motherboard here got it off to the side and you see I pick it up by this heat sink in the edge just to lift it up and it's got a lot more weight to it now that the memories on it so I don't want to hold it like that very long I just want to get it up in the air and get it so I can properly hold it and you can see it's got to be oriented in the right direction we want to face the keyboard hole or in this case our USB ports which are right up here going to be up to the top which is closest to me and this is a difficult board to hold properly because it doesn't really have any any hand holds on it so you want to make sure you're well grounded here and we just want to set the board down into place that's what I call a dry fit and there's already a one motherboard standoff under there so I don't know why they just put one in there but they did and I just want to line these i/o ports up with the i/o shield that fits nice and snug now I can see the motherboard standoff that was there comes through this hole on the board and what I want to do there's another one right there so there's two in place already I want to count how many total mounting holes this motherboard has and then I'm going to count off how many motherboard standoffs I have or put in the exact same amount so we've got one two three on the bottom one two three in the middle and one two three on the top for a total of nine and I just kind of take a good look at where these screws have to go these are all in a straight line these are all in a straight line and these two in a straight line and the one on top is just a little too low to my left your right so try memorize that go ahead and take the board out now in the bag of screws that came with this case there are some brass well they may not I think they're breast motherboard standoffs here those are the gold color ones now just pulled seven standoffs out of this bag there's still quite a few extras in there set that aside for right now also in this bag they include a little 5 millimeter socket with a Phillips head on the end so that way you can you don't have to buy any special tools that just fits over these motherboard stand off and then you just use a regular Phillips head screw driver to tighten it down that's a really nice touch I'm not going to use this because I actually have a tool which is very inexpensive it's just a 5 millimeter socket and I've got a ratcheting driver and we just have to remember where these go I know that these three in our line there's really only three holes that we can that we can use in this particular line and I just want to tighten those down by hand at first that one's a little tough going in so I guess I'm gonna have to use this too tighten that up all right so there's two in place and then I believe we were at the far end here now these I don't want to tighten down because I'm not exactly sure if it was this row here or this row here so I'm just going to go ahead and set these just start these out just a little bit here put those three in and then these last two one goes here where it's labeled well basically ABC and this one's going to go here so basically we're using the available holes on the top around this CPU tray cutout I can tighten these down because I know these are in the right place now if we look closely these are actually labeled a b c e f g i guess we're not using d where that is and down at this end we've got RS in T so I'm just not sure I'm going to find out now if I if I put that down too far it may have to go one over but this is a pretty big board so I think that's the right place I'm going to just make those flush all right now to see if I got it right so we'll grab the board again and it's again very gently set it down and do take note of how I'm holding the board and try and mimic that when you do yours really want to hold it by the edges hold the heatsinks try to avoid touching the circuit board or the bottom of the board [Applause] okay so the far standoffs I put too far away they need to come up one row but the top six I've got correct so this is why we check it take that right back out so we're going to use the holes in the back of the case here that say L AM and N and the rst ones are just too far away those are the next set down now remember we had nine mounting holes in the motherboard counter standoffs you don't want to have ten standoffs you're going to be in trouble that you no one's going to ground against the back of the board so one two three four five six seven eight nine that's the perfect number and we should be able to see them through all nine mounting holes on the board while I install the board again this should be for the final time line it up very gently with the i/o shield and I can see all nine standoffs through the holes in the board pulling out this bag of screws again I've pulled out nine of the fine threaded hex head screws there's also a fine threaded a flat head screw that's uh fits flush those are for use with the two and a half inch hard drives they're a little more shallow they're not quite as long as these screws and they may not have enough length on them to get the motherboard to reach through to the standoff so these are the actual screws you're supposed to use with the hex head and the fine thread the hex head with the coarse thread uh those are also in the back and those are the traditional screws that are used for other Hardware items so we don't want to use those and in fact you can't they won't they won't thread properly so you wouldn't go too far if you tried I'm going to use my mechanical screw driver on this and we're going to get all nine of these screws started now of course the reason I don't recommend tightening all the screws down as you as you install them is so that you can shift the board left to right or up or down as you need to to line up the other holes however this case is such a perfect fit that once the motherboard was lined up on the two standoffs that were already installed in the case it actually kind of sits down over them and locks it right into positions so we can go ahead and tighten these down now nothing wrong with being a little extra cautious anyway and I just want to take these just a little past snug we don't want to over tighten now here's what it looks like with the motherboard installed and standing upright again and next we can install the H 100 i liquid cooler now installing our water cooler or any water cooler into this case should in theory be very very simple let me turn the case around and I will show you that there is this one thumb screw right up here let me get my screwdriver out and take this single thumb screw out and then this whole top should just come right off ah it does like so then for this next shot I need to actually lay the case down so you guys can see what I'm doing I don't want to crush my cables so we'll just get our cables lift it up and out of the way here I want to bring the case straight down and slide it back a little bit here so you can see who am i kidding so I can see okay because what I need to do is I need to take this fan out you'll see the radiator could actually fit over on this side too but for best air flow I want to put the radiator using these two fan areas here so we're going to remove the fan that it comes with and it's just for standard fan screws that hold that fan in place and we're going to replace this fan with the matching fans that come with the liquid cooler now when I take this will last screw out that fans going to want to fall out so you want to hold the fan in place and again it's good to have a magnetic tip screwdriver as I said that as the screw just fell off the magnetism is getting a weak there and I'll just set that fan down and if I lift the case up a little bit here I can take that fan out and we can put this fan away it can be reused in other places on the case if the owner chooses to do that I'm going to choose to leave it out because it's really going to be overkill anyway now let me show you what you get in the box with the corsair h 100 i open the box this way and on top you see we've got our documentation and there's some of the products and warranty information set that aside and underneath here we have lots of plastic we've got our two fans one two got our cables for hooking up power and everything up to the fans and the water cooler itself we've got our brackets right here and got a bunch of screws that we're going to need and then we can take the radiator out and the radiator has little fins on it just like a car radiator that are easily bent so don't squeeze it too hard and it's permanently attached as a closed-loop system to the water block and go and remove the plastic from around it here and it's get that box out of the shop because that box is yeah it's completely empty I don't think there's anything underneath no nothing underneath completely empty so it's out of here alright so there's our radiator with the water block you'll see the water block has a plastic cover over the end and it's got thermal compound already on it that's why that plastic is there it's to keep any contaminants your fingers finger oils off of that thermal compound material because that will impede its efficiency and heat transfer so you leave that on until you're ready to apply it to the CPU now here you see we've got a couple of brackets and this bracket right here actually just goes right over the top of the water block that's actually what's going to hold it in position now a couple of these parts we won't be using for example this is an LGA 1150 1155 backplate this is used for AMD chips so we're not using either of these so they can be gotten out of our work area here fans I can set aside we're definitely going to need these fans so we're just set them aside for now all the screws and everything that we need there's actually more than what we need in here we'll get to that in a minute and then the cabling we won't need that for a little bit so we'll set that aside now in this bag of screws I open this up we're going to look for the LG 2011 standoffs now these standoffs over here on the left these are for LGA 1150 1155 Intel CPUs which we won't use on this build these four standoffs you'll see one edge is when it is shorter than the other these are used for the LGA 2011 Intel chip which already has a backplate installed and we're going to start with these four standoffs now using the short end of the standoff you'll see that there's already holes right in the corners of the CPU backplate and we can just put these in by hand now there's not really any special tool to use the tighten these down you want to get them as tight as you can with your fingers but when we put the thumb screws on them the thumb screws will tighten them down automatically for us now my initial thought on installing this radiator was to put it up on top and to bring the water block down and then they have the fans below it pushing air through however and unfortunately you know I really thought the Kosmos to case was going to give us more options and it locks us into having to basically turn the radiator around the other way and to install it from the inside what ends up happening when I try to install it on the outside of the case is it hits there's a bracket support bracket here for these carrying handles and it hits that basically that the radiator needs to come over a little bit more towards me in order for the holes to line up with screws below but it's not that big of a deal but we'll end up doing then is installing the radiator in this direction inside of the case with the fans on top the fans will still be pushing air out of the case but they'll be pulling it through rather than pushing it through how that affects the performance of the water cooler is probably negligible Corsair does recommend when you have a choice between push and pull to do the push however with this case design we have to put it in a pool design now we could add two more fans and have a push and pull configuration but that would be way overkill and unnecessary so what I'm going to have to do to get this radiator installed is actually turn this case around and then I need to bring it down this way and that way it's going to be able to hold the radiator or make it easier to hold the radiator and I'll be able to film it at the same time and and of course have access to the screws to be able to see what I'm doing so I'm going to start by grabbing the radiator here and aligning it to the approximation of where I want it to be and just watch that water block on the motherboard side it very gently down there we're just going to visualize here where the holes are going to line up we want the two holes in the radiator to line up with these two Center holes okay so set that down now when you go to install your fans you might say well how do I know which way the air is blowing on the fans well if you look very closely on the somewhere around the shroud of the fan there's typically two arrows one that shows the direction the fan is going to spin which in this case is towards me and another indicator showing which way the air flow is going so in this case out this way another way you can tell without looking for these little indicators and not all fans have the indicators is you see the courser logo and how it moves with the fan on this side and you see the courser logo on this side when the fan moves that logo doesn't turn that's the way the air flows so if you look for the center that doesn't turn that's the that's the direction the air is going to come out on every fan I've ever seen regardless of who makes it never hurts the double-check and check for the arrow indicators just to be certain but there's just a little little tip from your uncle carry in the bag of screws that come with the h100 eye there are eight really long screws and we need all eight of those for this next step you know this is where it helps to have four hands as you can see now the fan of course the non-moving part that's the direction the air is going to go so we want that to be facing us and this is the hole that we're going to use for power cable for the fans so we want to turn the fan so that that can easily reach there and we'll grab one of the screws and we just want to get these screws started by hand once we have the proper alignment for the radiator now going to grab my mechanical screwdriver and just bring these not quite too snug but I just want to make that radiator a little tighter so it doesn't move around when I install the next fan so the same thing we're going to run the power cable right through here so we can visualize where we want that to be here set it up and again we're going to start these screws by hand as well once you've got all the screws started go ahead and tighten them down you don't want them too tight if they're too loose you might hear it vibrate if they're too tight you can strip the threads right out of the radiator and you certainly don't want to do that and tightening in opposite corners will help when you're doing this because as you tighten one screw down it may actually make the screw in the opposite corner loose so once you think you've got them just the way you want them you need to go back around and make sure that they're all about the same tight tightness I can't stress enough do not over tighten these screws you can crack this plastic you can strip the threads out of the radiator as I already mentioned you just want to take them a little bit past snug and you want to make sure that all four corners are equally tightened they don't have to be exactly the same you don't have to use like a like my electric screwdriver has a clutch setting you wouldn't have to use that in fact the electric screwdriver could easily strip those out and that's one of the reasons I'm doing it by hand we can take these power cables and feed them through this hole right here take both of them and feed them through now while I've got the case down in this position you can better see how this lid goes back on you actually put it on almost all the way here and it's got a couple little tabs that stick up right here and they just go right underneath you can actually kind of feel it lock into position and then we have our thumb screw and that's what it looks like with the cover back on it I go ahead and bring this back up onto its feet and turn it around here so you can see and again you want to be real gentle because that water blocks just hang in there and it'll bang up against that board and could cause damage also watch your loose cables here we don't want to crush them turn that a bit there and now you can see we've got our radiator installed up here with the fans on top next we can install the water block onto the CPU but I do want to show you on the water block that there are a couple of power connectors here on the side and once I'm out the water block to the CPU I won't be able to film those to show you but we're going to be using one of these here after we've done this and then on the side there is another power connector and a USB port and the USB cable we're going to hook up a little later and that is what controls the water block and monitors it so now we can remove this plastic cover that's been protecting our thermal compound and I can rotate this the way I want it to look which will be let's get the cable out of the way which will be just like that it's going to fit over the standoffs we install just a moment ago set that right on there and we're going to grab the thumb screws and we'll just put those on by hand at first to take a mechanical screwdriver don't use a cordless screwdriver it's very easy to snap these off and we want to tighten opposite corners at first just bring them till they're a little tight to turn and do that to all four corners first and then you want to tighten them down well past snug but don't muscle it too hard like I said you can break the stand off inside of the thumb screw but we want a nice firm surface or firm grip between the surfaces of the bottom of the water block in the top of the CPU for the best thermal transfer now here we've got a power cable that's coming out this is a SATA power cable and that's going to power the water block itself and this is the this would go where the CPU fan header is on the motherboard located on the top right of this motherboard you'll see there are two CPU fan headers and they're labeled right on the board although I'm sure it says it in the owner's manual as well but it's a CPU fan and it's a CPU optional so the CPU fan is the one on the left and the CPU optional the one on the right so we're going to grab the fan header off of the water block which is a three pin plug we're going to plug it on to the main CPU fan connector which is a four pin connector but it's got little grooves on it and it'll line up with the notch that sticks out and go right over the proper three pins you're supposed to use basically the the pin on the far left isn't going to be used and the entire connector to the right the optional band connector we won't be using that at all either the h100 eye comes with two fan connectors and a USB cable now these fan connectors are the same it doesn't matter which one you use we're only going to use one of them because each one controls two fans as you can see there's a little Y adapter here to control two fans you can have up to four fans on the radiator two on the bottom and two on the top and what they call a push-pull configuration but since we're only using two fans we only need one of these cables the other one can be put away so we're going to start by hooking up the radiator fans to the water block using this power connector you'll see one end of it has two standard fan connectors on one end and the other end has this kind of funky connector on it that's got a clip on it and up on the top of the water block there are two ports that you can use either one for powering your fans and with the clip facing towards you select one or the other I suppose whatever the cabling is going to look best is going to be you know the deciding factor if you use the right or the left side and then it's kind of hard to see but there's a little groove in there and don't force it it should when you get it lined up properly should fit right in so I can feel it's gone into the groove there and I just push it straight down clicks right into position then we're going to grab our fan power cables coming down from the top above the radiator and plug each one in it's a four pin connector as you can see here there's a groove on one side so you know which direction it goes on it doesn't matter which fan goes on which connector and we'll hook both of those up the next cable we can hook up is the USB cable we're going to use this end first and this end plugs into the waterblock there is a connector right here on the side that I showed earlier and just rotate the cable so that the cable faces up the connector is going to go on this way and let's see if I can get you a good angle on that it just plugs in like so and in a perfect situation you would be able to take the other end of this cable and run it up through the top corner of the motherboard way up here pull that through now unfortunately the Kosmos two case doesn't have any holes in the motherboard tray down here at the bottom to pull this cable back out we have to bring it over to the side over here and then back over again that's going to make the cable pretty taut it will reach just barely but clearly the designers of the cosmos too definitely did not have the h100 I in mind when they were designing it for water cooling solution however you'll see I've got about this much cable left without pulling on it too tightly and the USB cable just like in other videos I've shown it's a standard USB 2 header we've got three blue ports down here we can plug into any of those three and one pin is missing that's how you know what direction this goes on so rotate it in the proper direction I'm going to put it on the one closest to the end so I'm not pulling that cable too tightly and then we can kind of clean that cable up just a little bit maybe just get it off of the heatsink and push it down a little bit and then the last cable we'll have to hook up is the power through the SATA which I'll show you how to do here just a little bit but for now that completes the waterblock install now with the water cooler installation finished the next thing we can hook up are the data cables for all of our drives however the owner of this computer has been watching these videos as I've been posting them and seeing his computers progressing along and he and I spoke and he had a really good idea that that I couldn't agree more with and that is he's actually not going to use these bays down here on the bottom and he's thinking he'd like to reduce the weight of the machine and instead of having the solid-state drive down here where I placed it just put all the drives all together up here so I think that's a great idea in fact what we can do is simply slide this tray out from up here and let's take this tray from down here and we can just move that up one right and again I don't have to move these drives I just think it'll be more logical that way and then we'll take the SSD drive out and move it just like that and put the empty tray right back in here so now I've got two solid-state drive on the bottom and the two hard drives just above it and we're just using this area here and that means all this can come out which is going to reduce weight I think his thought was he was going to improve air flow but because these are all compartmentalized I don't know that that's actually going to do anything for floo however this whole fan mechanism just comes straight out you just pull it just like that and you can see that pops up very easily and then these two drive cages also come out real easy I turn the case around if you look closely on the other side you'll see there are two thumb screws right down in here that holding each of these cages so two thumb screws here two thumb screws here and we just need to remove both of these thumb screws and you may require a screwdriver to do this they were in there pretty tight I just went ahead and loosen them up off camera so I could use my hands to show you how those come out since they're called thumb screws so you can take them out with your finger and your thumb but like I said from the factory they're actually pretty tight and they should be they hold the cages in place let's turn this thing back around and now now the camera there we go we can grab this top lip here and pull the cage straight out there's one and pull the other cage straight out there's two now with those cages removed you can see we've got this big open area down here and as far as improving air flow goes as you can see there's really no place for the air to go that's going to be beneficial to the rest of the computer the only thing down here is the power supply and it's bringing air in from the bottom and out the back and this is all sealed off there's a couple of wire grommets down here but for the most part this is a sealed compartment and this is a sealed compartment so this really doesn't improve air flow however I was really eager to do it because it takes a couple pounds off the system it's going to make it a little lighter so I'm all for that now is a good time to familiarize yourself with the SATA ports on your particular motherboard this isn't something you can really do by just looking at them I had to refer to the manual and the manual explains to us that this top white port up here is a SATA 6 K per second port these two blue ones are set at three gig per second ports and this other white one on the bottom is a SATA 6k per second port however why it's separated is because these three pairs of ports are all based on the Intel chip the Intel hard drive controller and this bottom one is based on a Marvell hard drive controller there's a limitation on the earlier chipsets that limited you to one pair of Intel 6 gig per second ports that doesn't exist on the modern Haswell chips today however that's why they had to do it this way what's the difference between them well the bottom port here this Marvel has a feature called SSD caching which we're not going to use but what solid state drive caching was is when solid-state drives first came out they were really small in capacity and very expensive to purchase and the idea was you could buy a cheap solid-state drive relatively cheap one and use it to cache your mechanical drive to boost your system performance today solid-state drives are much more affordable and have much larger capacities so the solid state drive caching by the time it was created and introduced was pretty much obsolete unfortunately it was a good idea but the technology the hardware technology surpassed the software technology in this particular case so by knowing the speed of the ports week and knowing which ones the Intel port which one's the Marvell port we can then determine where we're going to plug our devices for example we're not going to plug our optical drive into a SATA 6 gate Marvell controller down here you can only plug data drives into it an optical drive won't work and and if it did work you'd be wasting it because an optical drive can't transfer data at that speed that this port can offer so by planning this ahead now and knowing where we're going to plug our cables in it all makes sense because pretty much what it translates to is that our raid array our raid 0 array is going to go down here on the Marvell controller so both of those Seagate constellation 2 terabyte drives are going to plug down here and use this pair and consume that Marvell troller on the two blue controllers we're going to use all four of these think about it we've got the optical drive we've got the two external removable trays and we've got an eSATA port that's on this front I love this motherboard so that's four four devices right the optical drive the two externals and the eSATA connector that's going to consume all four of those that just leaves our solid state drive which will plug in onto the Intel six gig per second port now why not plug the solid-state drive into the marvel and use the Intel six gig for the raid well I tried that and and Windows seven would not install without a driver it couldn't recognize any of the hard drive controllers and by simply reversing that Windows 7 installed without any hesitation at all it found everything just fine so learn that one the hard way sometimes you have to experiment with this stuff which is what I had to do and was able to determine that solid state if if the solid-state drive is plugged into the Intel six gigabit connector we can configure the raid on the Marvell controller and everything's great everything runs fine so that's where our SATA cables are going to go and let me show you them as we hook them up one by one in fact now that I think about it with the solid-state drive going on the top static controller I think I want the solid-state drive to be the top drive doesn't have to be that way but I think the cabling is going to be cleaner to come in from the top and go into the top so again this isn't going to affect how the system works it's just a matter of keeping the cabling clean so all I'm going to do is remove the solid-state drive from the bottom here and remove these this one Seagate constellation 2 terabyte drive and move it to the bottom and then go ahead and put the solid-state drive right up there now you've seen me move these drives around three times because I haven't built with this case before and I'm kind of figuring it out as I go the only other alternative would be to completely build the system off-camera figure out where everything needs to go take it all back apart again or have a duplicate system and then recreate the work so this is the the fun part of filming where I get to do things two or three times but it's just because of my lack of familiarity with the case and and of course knowing the limitations of that Marvel controller having the main drive hooked up to that for Windows 7 to not recognize it and I'm sure there's a way to do it with installing drivers and everything but just to make life simple we're going to go ahead and and make sure solid-state drive once again going to go up on the top Intel based controller and the raid 0 the two mechanical drives which are now down here on the bottom would go on that bottom Marvel controller now in the motherboard box I pulled out the SATA data cables you'll see I've got three pairs here that's six cables total which two in each bag and they're not all the same these have little white caps on them or actually white connectors they're not caps and these are solid black and according to the manual the solid black ones are four SATA 3 devices like your optical drive and the connectors that have white on them are four SATA six now I haven't actually done any speed testing between the cables to see if there's really a difference but I guess there must be four suits to go through that trouble so let me show you how you hook these up now when I hook up my drive cables the way I decide which one I want to start with is by figuring out if I use this into the cable and I start at the top it's going to drape down and it could interfere with my access to the lower drives so I'm going to start with the lower drives and that way there's no interference from the cable as I connect the drives above so we'll start with the bottom drive again using the l-shaped connector of the SATA 6 cable and that's just going to plug straight on just like that we'll take the other end of this cable and we're going to run it right through this wire grommet right here and we're going to take the other end of this cable and remember that's coming from the drive that's located on the bottom and we're going to plug it in to the bottom connector this is not a technical reason why we're doing this this is a logical reason why we're doing this which will make working and diagnosing on the system later much much easier bottom drive bottom connector take the next SATA 6 cable we're going to do the exact same thing on the next drive up and again right back through that wire grab it with the other end now we take the opposite end of that cable I go ahead and plug it right above the cable we just plugged in so that consumes that Marvell controller the 6 kg per second controller and then we'll take the last SATA 6 cable we're going to use again with the l-shaped end plug it into the solid-state drive and this one the connectors a little bit higher up so to keep the cable as clean as possible we'll go to the wire grommet up above and feed that one in now I'm going to take the other end of that cable and on this connector up here the top one that we're going to plug into next it says that port one is actually on the top and port 2's on the bottom so I want to plug it into port one which is on the top it'll actually work in either one and it may be a little easier access in the future if you plug it in the bottom one so that if you want to add another drive that port will remain open however I like to use the port numbers in the order of priority of booting although that's technically not a limitation you can work around that that's just my OCD for you now remember as I pointed out earlier we have our two removable hard drive trays here that we have to hook up so if I just rotate the case around here we're going to dig through all of these cables and again don't let these cables intimidate you what we're looking for right now are the two SATA data cables that are coming off the back of each of the trays which one on the top tray one on the lower tray might just route those around right now make sure they're not tangled up with it see how I got this group of cables completely out of the way so I'm going to take the bottom drive tray SATA connector and place it on the bottom connector here and the SATA cable from the top removable drive tray I will plug in just above that now way up here at the very top of the computer where all of our i/o ports are this connector right down here is an eSATA connector I don't know if the customer is going to use this or not but we might as well hook it up we've got the ports so once again I'm going to turn the computer around to the side and looking through this big bundle of cables I want to find should be a SATA cable here it's going to look unlike any of the other cables here it is right here again a good opportunity to make sure it's not tangled up with any of the other cables now this SATA cable I'm going to plug into the bottom port of this final blue connector that's labeled port number 4 which is on the very bottom here plug that straight on next we'll take one of the SATA 3 connectors which is all black and again using the l-shaped end of it towards the optical drive we'll plug that right in and the opposite end of this cable we're going to plug into the last SATA 3 connector right there and that hooks up all the data cables to all of our drives now you might ask yourself why hasn't he plugged the video card in yet well if you look closely at the system the video card is going to be about this long and it's going to cover up these ports and make them very hard to access it's also going to block our view of connecting in our front port switches so it's best to save the video card for later and that's exactly why it's not that you can't do it but it does make your assembly process harder than it needs to be when you plug in parts in a in an inefficient order now speaking of that one of the things that's going to be much easier to hook up now without the video card in our way is this rear case fan now one of the reasons this case has so many wires coming out of it is it's got this built-in fan controller and the fan controller is really designed to control the front fans and side fans and top fans it really isn't an option for the rear family I guess they intend for that rear fan took either run at one speed all the time or to be plugged directly into the motherboard and let the motherboard control the speed so for that reason they've given us an adapter that allows us to plug the fan directly in the power supply and if we do that it's going to run one speed all the time we're not going to use that we just unplug the adapter and that reveals a three pin fan header now this adapter we won't use that can go on the motherboard box with the rest of our spare parts we won't be using and on the motherboard right there is our fan header right there it's labeled CH a fan or chassis fan now that's a four pin fan header but this is only a three pin fan plug that's okay you can plug a three pin fan into a four pin fan header no problem it's got little grooves on it so you know which of the three pins to use it just plugs in this case on the first three pins starting from the top and the bottom pin is the one that's not used it's just that simple to hook up now the next connector we can hook up is our front port USB 3.0 it's a very different looking connector when you look in this big bundle of intimidating wires you'll see there's one that's just completely different from all the others it's this kind of thick cable it's got two cables going into a 19 pin it's actually got 20 holes they call it a 19 pin sometimes they call it a 20 pin connector and there's a spot here on the motherboard typically it's blue which signifies USB 3 and it's got both the connector and the plug you have a notch in it so it only goes in one way and just rotate that in the right direction and plug it straight on now speaking of USB we might as well go ahead and hook up the four USB ports that are up here on the I owe as well they also look different than all the other cables here with this case they're actually rounded cables as they are in most cases actually and it takes one connector for each pair of USB 2's most cases only have one pair of USB 2's this one's got two pairs of USB twos which means it's going to have two cables and those cables are going to look exactly identical so looking through this big bundle of wires I'm looking for the rounded cables here going to a regular square termination block which is what I've got here and there's two sets of them they're exactly identical they're twins and what I've done is I've actually separated them from this big bundle of wires and ran them separately untangling them along the way to the bottom wire grommet here since we're going to run them along the bottom if I can just arrange that right c1 tangle that run it right along the bottom and they're going to go right here on to these two remaining USB 2 headers on the motherboard it doesn't matter which connector you plug where there is a pin missing on the connector and there is a pin missing on the plug ensuring you can only plug it in one way so we'll go ahead and just plug one in here and we'll plug the other one in right there and that consumes all of the USB 2 ports between the two front pairs of USB 2 and then of course our H 100 I water cooler so with this motherboard they gave us exactly the amount that we needed now in this giant bundle of cables there should be one more rounded cable and again I'm talking specifically about the cosmos to case and these rules apply to most cases but if you have a different case it's possible yours will be a little different but this is the last rounded cable all these other cables are flat cables and this is our front port audio connector to allow us to plug in headphones or a microphone on the front port IO up there on the top of the case now you'll see it actually breaks off into two separate connectors one says HD audio and one says AC 97 motherboards haven't used the AC 97 in a long long time I'm surprised that they included this in the cosmos 2 case I guess they were being thorough but we won't be using that one you use one connector or the other not both and if you're building a modern computer you're going to be using the HD audio connector they're both wired up exactly the same as far as the connectors go because it's going to fit on the same plug it's just if you plug the wrong one in your front port audio isn't going to work there is a pin missing on the plug to ensure that it only goes on one way and on most motherboards the connectors all the way back on the bottom left side and with this motherboard it is it's located right down here so again I have run this cable through the bottom wire grommet separated away from these flat cables and I'm going to run it underneath all the other cables since it's got to go that distance and just orient it in the proper direction and plug it straight on now when the cables that remain you will find one set of cables that once again are terminated differently than all these other cables all these other cables have power connectors on them and this just has your standard to pin plugs on them and that's our reset switch our power switch in our hard drive led now most cases also have a power led wire to go to the front of the case this case does not it's providing power to the power led a different way which once again I'll show you when we get there but I'm so glad to get to this part because now I get to show you that quick disconnect that a soos includes and why I think every motherboard should include this in the motherboard box a soos included these quick disconnects for the front IO and for the case USB 2 ports if you know in older cases they used to just give you the wires and you had to put each wire on the USB 2 in the right order I haven't seen that a long time so we won't be using this blue one now personally I think everyone boy should include these quick disconnects because they make hooking up the front port cables so much easier you'll see this side of it is for a speaker and the power LED we're actually not even going to use this side if we turn it around you'll see it's labeled for the hard drive led the power switch and the reset switch and so all we need to do is take the hard drive LED and where there's a positive on this quick disconnect there's also a positive and negative labeled on the connector and the connector is just going to go on those two pins just like that now the power switch in the reset switch do not have a positive or negative so it doesn't matter which way you put them on and I'll just put the power switch on next and again you'll see how that's labeled power switch with the power switch connector on it and reset switch which goes on the last set of pins there now you'll see this connector has holes in certain positions so that it only plugs in one way on the motherboard which is actually going to be this direction so here on the bottom right corner of the board is a large white connector that's where our hard drive LED and switches and such go and instead of hooking them up individually we just use this large disconnect that we hooked up and plug it straight on alright at this point you might be saying hey that's all well and good but you still have a lot of cables left over actually we don't a lot of these cables are for powering and LED and since we're not hooking up any LEDs on this case I guess some fans have separate LED power connectors and not exactly sure without doing the research where these LED power cables come into play but we aren't using them so all these cables that have these two pin power connectors here on the end every one of these is not being used so what we can do is gather them all together we can actually push them out the back of the case so as you can see our bundle of cables has gotten a lot smaller if you look closely you'll see two of these cables or power for the removable drive trays and the rest of these are fan headers with the exception of one more power cable right here but instead of having them come out up here I'm going to reroute these will push them out the back and we're going to bring them in down here on this lower tray since we've made this available because we can hook up the front fan and I'm going to go ahead and take the fan I remove from the top when I install the Rotter the water block and I'm going to go ahead and move that up here on the front you'll see there's a space for a fan we've got it it really doesn't need it there but we'll go ahead and put it there and then we can hook those cables up here so out of all of these cables we're actually only going to be using three more of these so let me get these pushed out and redirected down here alright now that I've got the remaining cables routed down below to this bottom compartment that would be as good a time as any to go ahead and put that other fan in and that's real easy to do on this case we just rotate that around and we'll raise the cover up this bottom piece here can actually grab it from underneath and pull it towards you and it actually will unclick from the bottom it slide out from the top we can set that down and I'm going to take the fan that I remove that was up here on the top and I'm going to place that here now when I install this fan I want to make sure it's drawing air into the case all front fans bring our in all rear fans blow air out so again using the same rule I showed you earlier the center part that spins that's the part that's drawing there in the center part here that doesn't spin that's where the air is coming out so we're going to put it in this direction and very easily reach that part right now and I'm going to use the exact same screws that I removed when I took the fan out and we just need to line the holes up here now that I have the screws started much cutting off a little bit early because these are a bit tighter to get into the fan and I don't want to adjust the clutch to be too strong so what I'm going to do is lock the screwdriver so that I can turn it like a mechanical driver make sure that I don't over tighten these screws then we can take our cover you'll see it's got two notches on the top slide the top in first and then push the bottom in it will click into place and installing that fan it's really just that easy now on these power connectors that remain these actually go to the fan controller that's up here on the very top of the case which once I get the system running I'll show you how that works but we are going to hook up two fans effectively we have the front fan and because there used to be hard drive cages here this is called a hard drive fan and you'll see there's little labels on all of these cables and this one is labeled F ro fan so that's front fan and all I have to do is take the power connector coming off of that front fan and plug it right into that connector the remaining cables are actually three hard drive fan connectors three top band connectors and to GPU fan connectors now the GPU of course has its own fan so these are referring to the fans that you can optionally put on the side panel of the case it has room for two fans that's why there's two GPU fan power connectors they blow right over the GPU with a graphics processor we're not using those two then we've got three top fan connectors which are right here remember up on the top there was room for three fans there was one there with two empty holes we remove the one replaced it with the fans on the radiator the radiator controls these fans we're not using any of these three top fans so those get pushed aside what does that remain that we've got a harddrive fan a harddrive fan and a harddrive fan why are there three remember there was two fans sitting right here so that's two plus the one we added that's three that covers that the two hard drive cages that used to be here so guess what we are only going to use one of those one of the HDD fans and the reason why it's important is when you use your fan controller to know which fan you're speeding up or slowing down because if you've got them connected to the wrong ones you're going to hit the button to slow down or speed up your HDD fan and instead you're going to speed up your your other fan so I mean they're all going to work just the same but that's why they're labeled and the fan connector plugs in exactly the same way three pin fan connector into the three fin plug and all that remains after all of that is a power cable which will hook up that's actually when we hook power to this what's going to light up the power LED and power the fan controller and power all the fans right here on this one connector so the rest of these can be tied up and hidden because they're not going to be used and that is all of our cables except our power cables so next we can go ahead and install our video card now one of the beauties of shooting in HD is that some of you may have noticed that there is a power cable connected way up here at the top that I never showed how to do and the reason for that is I did some testing off-camera yesterday with the system and I tried to return the system back to the state it was in and that's an oversight on my part so let me take it out we'll pretend like that wasn't there because I haven't shown you how to plug that in yet let me just take that out of there and that didn't happen see the alternative is that I would have to reshoot everything I've already just shot over a simple mistake like that so I'm gonna be taking the easy way out of it and we'll just pretend that never happened now where was I is installing the video card finally alright now when we install a video card you'll see we've got several sockets the video card will actually fit it but if you've only got one video card you're going to want to plug it in to the topmost socket very top one up here and you'll see the end of these sockets actually have retaining retaining levers that move back and forth very similar in function to the memory retaining levers and here's the thing if that retaining lever is closed you could break it if you try and force your video card in anyway so take a moment now and move that top retaining cover or retaining lever rather over to the side so it's in the open position then we're going to grab our video card and again holding it here by the plastic shroud and I'm going to hover it over that port just to see which of these back cover plates here I've got to remove these expansion bay covers so I can see when I line it up I've got to remove the second and third cover so let me do that right now next I'm going to take the video card you'll see it looks like it's in upside-down the circuit board faces up the fan faces down line up the groove in the connector here with the groove on the connector on the board and we're just gonna line that up again making sure that retention lever is in the open position don't try putting any force on the card until it is lined up correctly with the slot once you're sure that that's lined up correctly just push it straight down and you may even hear that retention lever click there it goes now I'm going to take the two thumb screws I just removed that we're holding in these expansion Bay covers we're going to put those right back in to secure that video card now these expansion Bay covers I'm going to throw into the motherboard box with the rest of the spare parts they might be needed in the future you never know and all we have left now there is to hook powerup to everything all right we're in the final stretch of our build almost being completed here all that we have to do is hook power up to everything and then we can test fire it make sure that it does a power on self test it can't boot to anything because the hard drives are brand new they don't have any partitions that's okay it should say no bootable media found or no bootable device found something along that lines that way you know you're you're on the right track you need to at least get that post or power on self test once that's done you'll have a final opportunity to make any other changes to the case if you want to move fans or move drives around or change cages there's a lot of options here and you got to think about what's going to fit your needs now and in the future the best once you've made that decision you can do your wire management then you can go ahead and update the motherboard BIOS if you want go ahead and install the operating system download all the updates to the operating system install all your drivers and make sure you get all the latest ones from that from the manufacturers website also the solid-state drive has firmware you want to make sure you've got the latest firmware on the solid-state drive which you'll do after you get everything installed on it and then finally you can put the covers back on it and we can run some performance numbers on this big old beast and see what it looks like but the end starts now with power cables now here's a close up of all the modular cables that are included with the C Sonic 1250 XM power supply not the least of which is the main power cable holy moly that thing is huge look how thick that is it's probably the most heavy-duty power cable I've seen on a PC in a long time but I suppose it has to be if you're going to be drawn as many apps as that power supply can deliver we're not going to be drawing anywhere near that on this system but she certainly has room to grow that's for sure then all these other cables I've just got them grouped together in in what they do so for example this is our main motherboard connector we've got a 12 pin CPU power connector and an 8 pin CPU connector we will not be using the 12 pin that one goes away here we've got regular molex and SATA connectors for hooking up our data drives that's what all of these are we're not going to be using all these and then these last set of 4 are power cables for video cards and we're not going to be using all of these we're actually probably just be using one set since we're using one video card and in these three and also go away so those would get put away for future upgrades and then like I mentioned some of these molex connectors I don't know which ones of these I'm going to use I'm not going to use all these some of these are going to get put away and we're going to find out which ones right now now the first connector out of that bundle that remains that we're going to use is this largest connector of the bunch you'll see it's got one end it's got this 24 pin connector and the other end is split into two connectors here the split end is what's going to go on to the back of the power supply and this large end is going to go on the very large connector on the motherboard we'll start by taking the large 24 pin connector on this end of the cable and it's going to plug in to the large blue 24 pin connector located up here on the top right the little clip on this connector unpacked in all the connectors you should be hooking up to your motherboard face towards the edge of the board it can only go on one way so it's not like it's possible for you to put it on backwards not without physically using so much force you break it and just simply line it up and you should hear it click into position we'll take the other end of this cable and we're going to route it through the back and now from behind the motherboard you see I've got the cable right here right way to bring it down through the power to the power supply and this is going to be a little difficult to film because these support braces are in the way of the camera let me give you the best shot I can of how these cables plug in the clips on the connector face down and we're going to plug the largest of the two connectors here on the bottom connector and the connector says M slash B which is short for motherboard so we plug that one in and then the smaller cable plugs in directly above it in the other connector also labeled M slash B and again with the connector facing down now the next cable we're going to eat is the CPU power connector and that's got an 8 pin connector on each side and one of them is split into two fours this side that split into two fours goes towards the motherboard some motherboards have a four pin connector some have an eight this board has an eight the board we're using today and then the solid connector that does not split that says CPU on it is going to plug into the back of the power supply so the split ones are the ones we're going to deal with first here on this end of the cable the clip is going to face the outside edge of the motherboard into this other blue connector located right here and we can just plug that straight on and you should hear that click into position now the other end of this cable the end that says CPU on it that I just showed you is going to go on the back of the power supply on the connector next to the top motherboard connector we just plugged in and it actually is labeled CPU and again all the connectors on the power supply face downward so going back to the modular cables that came with the power supply we want one of the cables that looks like this where it's got a 12 pin connector on one side this is the part that goes to the power supply and then it breaks off into two separate cables as you can see here and they're both labeled PCI - II and they have an optional two additional pins can connect on now it doesn't matter which of these connectors you use on these plugs all that matters is you've got them configured properly in other words there's this extra little two pin power plug that connects to make a six pin plug into an eight pin plug and you'll see we've got a 6 pin connector and an 8 pin connector so as long as you've configured the plug to have the right amount of pins it doesn't matter which one you use on which plug typically it's best to start with this bottom connector in this case it's a 6 pin connector so I'll go ahead and Bend the two extra 2 pin one away and with the clip facing up it'll plug straight on and now we can do the top connector with the clip on the plug facing down and you usually have to kind of squeeze the extra 2 pin on it otherwise it'll want to separate on its own it's only going to fit in one way and again you'll hear that click into position now take the other end of this cable and this is where you have little decision making to do we've got a lot of places that we can run this cable for cable management really depends on what you think looks best you can choose to run it if you want you can run it straight down for example here or here and bring it through directly to the power supply and you'll see how that's going to look if we do that or what what I personally think looks better is to run it up here by the big main motherboard power connector and just push that out towards the back and you know kind of keeps our cables altogether whether or not you think that looks better or not some people will some people won't but if it was my computer that's how I would run it unless the cable wasn't going to reach so if there's a distance problem you may be forced to route the cable a certain way but those are the considerations that I that I take and and you should when you're hooking your cables up and it's best to do it now otherwise you'll have to redo it later now the rest of the power connectors that are along the top of the power supply those are all for video cards since we're only using one video card we only need to use any one of those three connectors up there so I'm going to go ahead and plug this cable in next to the other cables we've got to keep all the cables together for cleaner wire management and also have easier access to the available ports if we had a video card in the future now to give power to our three hard drives we're going to need three SATA power connectors so looking at the modular cables that came with the power supply it just so happens see sonic it gives us a cable that has exactly three SATA power connectors on it so here's a close-up of the back of our drives now what you need to consider if you're going to be using one power cable as I am here to power all three drives is that these connectors only go on one way so for example if I start with the end connector and I put it on the top drive that means this connector is now upside down and I have to flip it around so the cable has to effectively the bottom cable now has to bend up to the top see what's happening there in order for that to fit on it just looks ugly with just a little added effort not much effort take the same cable that you would have used on the top instead put it on the bottom now the bottom of the next connector is going to stay the bottom it doesn't have to flip around it'll just plug straight in and the same thing applies for the final connector on the last hard drive it's just a much cleaner look now we take the other end of this cable and the cable management for it is is basically nothing you just run it under here right to the back of the power supply and it'll plug in any of the remaining six pin connectors on the back of the power supply I've this isn't wire management by the way this right here was just me getting a zip tie real quick to get these wires out of the way so I could get you an angle on this with the camera that wasn't a big curtain of wires where you would be able to see what I was doing so that's going to be cut away here in just a minute that was just done or this shot there are a lot of people who watch every detail of these videos and you might be one of them and you might be thinking is that his cable management it's not so here's a close-up of me plugging the SATA power cable into the back of the power supply any of the remaining power connectors on this row here you can use I just want to keep all my cables together finally the last power cable we're going to need is to power the external drive bays if they're used they're going to need power and the fan controller and they all use these what's called molex power connectors and we need three of them and when you know it see Sonic gave us exactly three on this one cable what's great about that is that we're running fewer cables that way you don't there's really no limit to how many things you can plug into one cable and unless you have an exceptionally unusual system if the cable fits you can use it regardless of whatever else it's plugged into so locating the molex connectors is quite simple there's one coming out of each of the external drive trays and then there's one coming down from the top of the fan controller which also provides our power LED so to keep our cabling as clean as possible I'm going to go ahead and push these through to the back so we'll hook that power up where it is going to make our cables look as clean as possible now as you can see our cabling is getting to be kind of messy back here but this is why it's important to take your time now when you're hooking up cables that you route them without going between cables that you're going to have to undo later when you do your cable management so just take a few extra minutes now first of all to find the darn cable you need which we've got the one power connector here the other power connector here and there should be another power connector there it is right here so you see how this these are coming out here and this one's coming out through the bottom it's just really a matter of thinking through how your cabling is going to look and it doesn't mean you have to get it right the first time if you don't you just have to redo it and you know and redo it and redo it until it looks good to you these connectors only go on one way and it doesn't matter which connector you use on to which plug there's no order to it and we'll go ahead and just plug both of the external drive bays in first and then this last connector you know like I said if this is going to run I'm going to have this tied up I have to consider I don't want this cable to be on the outside you know if there's all going to be on the inside then this one has to be inside of that cabling too and then we'll just take that one last power connector plug that right on and the other end of this cable is going to plug in right next to the last one we plugged in now there's just one last power cable we've got a hookup didn't I already say that well I almost forgot about hooking up the optical drive and the waterblock we better hook those up don't you think so the see sonic power supply actually comes with the exact cable we need that has two SATA connectors on it but it's not long enough to do the cable management I want to do so the longer cable has three SATA connectors on it we're only going to use two of them but it's going to make the cabling look a lot better so I'm going to start by taking the very end of this power connector using the end SATA power connector I'm going to plug it right onto the back of the optical drive the rest of the connector I'm actually going to feed right through the cable management hole all the way through now to keep our cabling as clean as possible I'm going to take the SATA power connector from the waterblock I'm also going to feed that one through this hole in the very top back so that power connection is going to happen behind the board and keep this area is clean as possible so here's the power cable I've just pulled through and here's the SATA power connector coming off the waterblock and this one's a little bit tight if you want to use this power cable which we can we don't have to if it's too tight we could switch over to this one again we want our cabling to look as nice as possible I think that's going to be okay and then we can run this right down and into the back of the power supply and just like the last cable this one's going to plug in right next to it now one of the things that I've just noticed is that this large front fan right here actually does have a small two pin power connector which will light up the LED on it and here I thought we weren't going to use any of these little two pin power connectors for LEDs and they're not they're not labeled for any specific fan I've actually never encountered this before usually on all the fans I've used if they've got LEDs they're powered with the same power as the fan and when the fan speed slows down the LED light dims gets a less bright so apparently these don't work that way at least that's what it seems but it doesn't matter which it is you grab since they're they're not labeled they don't have to be they're all going to provide power equally the same and this is the only fan we've got that's got that connector and these two just go together there it's got a groove on one side and a notch on the other so it can only fit in one way and it will just click right into position now we're ready to turn on the system for the very first time and see if it boots it's time for the moment of truth I've got out my monitor my wireless keyboard in my wireless mouse these are the only things we're going to be hooking up to the computer when you're doing your very first power on you don't want any unnecessary items plugged in such as a flash drive or a printer even the internet don't plug any of that in yet so here I've got the wireless USB receiver for the mouse and the keyboard I'm going to go ahead and plug those into the back of the machine here on the black USB 2.0 ports all the way at the top although any of the USB 2.0 ports should be fine it's a good habit to get into to use the topmost ports now the next thing I'm going to hook up is the monitor a lot of people ask me why do you always hook up the DV guy cable on your monitor because that's what's convenient the video card on the back of this computer and perhaps maybe even on the back of yours will have multiple connections on it this one's got two DVI connections it's got an HDMI connection and a display port connection if I had an HDMI cable coming out of this monitor I'd grab it and plug it in it's just whatever's easiest so they'll all work equally the same there's no specific reason why I'm using the DVI cable when I'm doing a power on self test or or checking a system other than that's the first thing that's available to me to grab so on the back of the video card as I previously mentioned it's got two DVI connectors one's a DVI - I and one's a DVI - D doesn't matter which one you use I'm going to use the DVI - D I've just removed the protective cover from the back and plug the monitor right in there now the very last thing that we hook up is the power cable make sure your power supply switch is in the off position we'll go ahead and plug the power cable in and once that's firmly seated flip the power supply switch to the on position okay no sparks came out that's a good start so now we're ready I don't even know if I can reach the power button from back here but there's a lid that's got a slide back let's see if I can reach it and if I can feel it I think the power button is right right there yeah I can hear it so what we're hoping to see is something about no bootable device something like that and it should happen pretty quickly with a system of this calibre I've just you initially you hear the fans are pretty fast and then they slow down because they calibrate and there it is no bootable device found now what I'll do next is configure the raid array and install windows 7 on to the solid-state drive along with all the updates and get that optimized there's already a video detailing how to install Windows 7 I'll be following that video exactly and a link to that video will be in the video notes below I'll also clean up all this cabling and then I'm going to come right back and we'll run the performance numbers and see exactly what this machine can do all right so I've got the operating system installed our cable management is done and there's just one more thing I want to do if you recall these two fans were removed because we're not going to use well actually we can use the fans I'm going to go ahead and remove the fans and mount them on to the side panel side panel has an area for mounting up to two fans that can blow directly over this video card this video card can get really really hot and it will especially when video rendering now to remove the fans from this mount is actually very simple they're not screwed in there's just little plastic clips you can see these here on the camera if I push that clip away and lift up on this fan you'll see if it will easily come out there's a clip on the opposite side that also has to be pressed in and you'll see that the cable the cable is run right along the edge here which will be a lot easier to get out once we remove the other fan which is the same thing one clip on one side one clip on the other this can be put away and we can go ahead and make these fans now on to the side panel now this side panel is much different than any other side panel I've seen on any other computer case the way we mount the fans on this is you'll see there's a couple of Phillips screws here we've got to remove looks like we've got three of them one here here and here you'll see there's an arrow that's pointing to this direction you slide the cover that direction and the whole cover just comes right off and our fans are going to mount on the other side but we're going to put the screws in from the inside now the mount the fans on to this actually have to turn it around so you have the right perspective this is the inside of the door this is what's going to be closed and facing the computer the parts and what we're going to do is put the fan in this direction this way so that's the center part that doesn't move is going to be bringing air into the case drawing air in from the outside what you've got to consider is the length of your power cable because once you get this hooked up it may limit the ability of opening that door without an extension cable or making your cabling not look as good you can also buy fans that have a protective shield over them to keep your fingers from getting in there again this is the side of the of the door that's going to be facing the inside of the computer but this is how it's going to mount and we just have to put the screws in from this side that's why we had to take it off now I should also mention when you're putting your fan in you should pay attention to where the power cord is going to be coming out because remember this door is going to swing open so you can see now that I've got the power cord coming out what's going to be the bottom so that when this is put back into place that will be able to swing the door open this is the hinge side of the door we're going to go ahead and put this other fan on right here and exactly the same manner in fact we can either put it on this way or we can do it the exact same way the problem is going to be one cable end up more than likely being shorter than the other when the door opens so you can think about that when you're putting these fans together this will be probably the closest to having the same cable length even though they're one's going to look sideways compared to the other you might go for the look but no one's going to see this unless the doors open on the case anyway so I'm going to go for cable length now with both fans mounted we go ahead and set back into the it's got a little groove that it sits in and then it slides back into position and we'll put these three screws back in alright so now I'm going to take our door it's ready to go you've seen how this goes on before we've got the little notches that stick out they're going to slide into the groove and it just slides down into position you can see how our cables here on the fans are going to limit the opening of this door so it's certainly something to consider if you're going to put fans on the door now I'm going to take the two fan headers here that say GPU fan it doesn't matter which one you use that way they will be controlled from the fan header on top of the case and we'll plug each one in and now you know we can't really do much cable management there we can't tie that up because if we do we won't be able to open the door so we're go ahead just watch the cables when we close the door and that panels on now here you can see the cable management on this side it certainly isn't the prettiest cable management job but there are a lot of cables here so it won't interfere with the closing of the door and it's really easy to have to work on anything since the cables are separated into sections that's the logic behind it and again this door is going to go in exactly the same way onto the hinge and sometimes you have to just kind of smack it down get it seated and then we can go ahead and close that door so here's the completed monster all done looks pretty much the same as when we took it on the box doesn't it let me show you how the fan controller works now here's a view of this case you don't often see from the top down if we slide the top back this is the fan controller and this is where a power switch power led hard drive activity led and the lights that are lit up here like this says HDD that tells us we have an HDD fan attached the GPU is referring to the GPU fans that we've attached to the side door LED is the front LED that we hooked up on the front of the case we can turn that on and off with this switch our main power button is here again power LED is here hard drive activity LED is here reset button is here top is not lit up because the top fans are controlled by the H 100 I and then the front fan is lit up because obviously we have the front fan when the lights on the fan controller are blue that signifying that it's in low-speed mode if you push the button you'll see the light goes to purple that's medium speed and then red that's high speed so you can adjust the speed individually of the fans you can put them all on high right now and of course the machine is going to get just a little bit louder when you do that then we go ahead and just put them right back on to low and that's all there is to that fan controller and that's how that works now let's take a look at the performance numbers of the computer starting with the raid 0 array just want to focus on those top numbers we've got read speeds of 292 point 8 megabytes per second and write speeds of a hundred and seventy nine point four megabytes a second now compare that with the solid-state drive which has an amazing 516 megabytes per second and 300 megabyte per second write speed now the Windows Experience Index on Windows 7 shows the maximum 7.9 subscore and every single component except the processor which gives us a base score of the lowest sub score which is seven point eight now just for for grins and giggles I threw Windows 8 on it and you'll see the individual scores there with the the base score is 8.1 on Windows 8 now what about Windows 8.1 who knows the Windows Experience Index has been removed from Windows 8.1 and ironically our base score is 8.1 go figure well I hope you enjoyed this video if so please click the like button and be sure to hit subscribe if you want to be made aware each time a new video - posted thank you for watching and I'll see you next time bye for now

Channel: CareyHolzman

Views: 595,585

Keywords: Carey Holzman, cosmos, Cosmos II, Cooler Master, Corsair, Kingston, Crucial, Asus, Asrock, MSI, Gigabyte, Western Digital, Seagate, Samsung, Intel, AMD, GPU, CPU, DDR3, RAM, memory, case, personal, computer, PC, how-to, build, assemble, make, game, games, gamer, gaming, video rendering, Video Game (Industry), Laptop, Ati, Nvidia, Core, Drive, Windows, Graphics, Gameplay, Geforce, Monitor, Quad, Mod, Setup, Dual, Usb, Notebook, Notebook (Film), Settings, Acer, Radeon, Desktop, Rig, Card, Computers, Review, Custom, Extreme, Ultra, Sli, Fps

Id: WfkD92AuUoc

Length: 140min 20sec (8420 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 28 2013