Terrific Scrapyard Finds! Repair-A-Thon!

[Music] pieces of decommissioned industrial equipment parts of vehicles that probably don't longer exist tools and materials in the production of which enormous amounts of energy were spent energy that probably was cheaper at that time than it is now it is therefore justified to search through the scrapyard here and see if some of this equipment can be repaired reused or repurposed before we think about spending yet another huge amount of energy in the making of entirely new things so follow me along then as I search through these scrap yards looking for tools and parts that deserve a new lease on life and retrieve them to my workshop so let's see then what we can find here today what do we have here looks like some kind of motor powered chain hoist in this case for 1,000 kilograms and here is another one but with the motor missing pretty beat-up stuff you're an old air compressor and as you may know I really like working on those but the pulley and piston is broken the tank is probably heavily corroded as well and I think I'll find a better compressor in time but what is that probably the biggest submersible pump I have ever seen this one is definitely a keeper a big twin piston compressor pump it looked impressive at first but it seems to be a budget version and is also in really bad shape and what do we have here though some vices in a huge pulley let the scrapyard owner deemed too valuable for the trash and that's why he put that here and I'm buying two of these vices and the pulley as well and a machine that I can't clearly identify do you know what this is but let's leave the scrapyard for now for another place where I sometimes find good stuff I'm at a small flea market especially for tools and here I have found an assortment of rare old drill bits that I will also restore in this video let's get back to the workshop then again we will begin with something easy and then progress to much more challenging repairs in this video I start by inspecting the drill bits it come in various forms and diameters but they can also be put into two groups going by the shape of their shafts they all have these tapered rectangular tips but some of them are square while others are flat and it's typical that they were lumped together with those hand rolls over at the flea market because even though these hand drills are old they are already too modern for these drill bits which were used before chucks were really a thing with hand drills you'll see what I mean in just a minute and I begin by putting all the drill bits into a citric acid and I leave them in there overnight the chemical reaction leaves a yellow color and a distinct smell if you want to know more about that I recommend you watch my video about chemical rust removal methods and you can find that down in the video description the citric acid can help a great deal of removing rust but it's still necessary here to clean and polish the surfaces manually to get a nice finish I remove remaining dirt and rust and oil every drill bit individually and while doing this I find many punch marks of old German manufacturers you want PETA on city of website later known as Matador PHARMAC city of website and some jewels just ensure you that they are German but again we find at least three different companies that were only a few kilometers apart from each other centered around the cities of website and vote pata center of the German to making industry and I take my time in cleaning and slightly oiling every last drill bit and I can recommend this as a form of meditation and while these drill bits can still be found here and there an assortment of this size and this condition is very rare but what kind of Chuck are these drill bits supposed to be used in then well here are three antique hand drills that I simply found in my workshop when I moved in here and they are exactly what we need as you can see they don't have a chuck at all it's really just a slot with a screw but do these drills still work you well if the apocalypse comes I might still die from a hundred different things but at least now I can drill holes without the need for electric energy so let's take a look at that submersible pump then this pump weighs over 40 kilograms and is professional equipment used by the firefighters it was made by a German company called must and you don't want to know what these pumps cause on the nameplate it says that the pump has a flow rate of 800 liters per minute which is more than five times of the pump I repaired in an earlier episode it comes with a long three-phase power cable and a motor breaker it is integrated into the plug the rotor looks a little rusty but other than that this broken cable guard is the only fault I can find so far in order to replace the guard you to see if there is any internal damage and screw the four Elm screws that hold the top of the pump on its body we can see that there are two o-rings and that water is leaked into the outer compartment I think that's not because of the o-ring but because of the screws they are not perfectly watertight I can find no traces of humidity inside the inner ring though as I read on the manufacturers website the motor itself is completely waterproof I temporarily removed the power cable ordered a new cable guard and replaced it and put the pump back together since I couldn't find any other problems I devised a plan to test if the pump works in principle since I have no pond or any larger body of water I'm now filling this 90 liter bucket with water [Applause] but as you can see the pump sucks that dry in a heartbeat I will do further testing to see if the pump is really staying dry inside later on but for now I consider it a working unit let's head on to a much more challenging job then let's repair this big vise then if you've been following this video series for a while you've maybe seen this vise before I had glanced at it a few times before when I visited this particular scrapyard in the past by a head dismissed that it's too much hassle but I'm actually fascinated by repairing cast iron parts and I want to develop my skills in brazing and in using the oxy acetylene torch in general and that's why I bought this vise after all let's inspect the damage the screw box holding the sliding jaw is loose with two bolts missing and one broken of the cast iron guide rail for the sliding jaw has broken off and is missing someone repaired it with a steel plate at some point in the past though the sliding jaw is also stuck maybe even due to that earlier repair job and after buying this vise I did some research on the internet and found pictures of this make and model RB number 6 and similar models by that same manufacturer some in better shape and some with similar problems here you can see what that box looks like when it's properly bullied in place and here you can see the original cast iron guide rail and here another example of a broken and missing guide rail but let's start the repair then I start by unscrewing the box now I'm trying to force the slide out of the vices body I don't want to do any more harm though and that's why I'm using a plastic hammer and I'm successful in opening the jaws at least a little bit but the hammer is too short to go any further than this I try several items until I end up using some old copper pipes to beat the slide out of there after moving it for around 10 centimeters I realized that it is not the body but the guide rail that causes the friction at some point someone has riveted a bend steel plate to the bottom of the vise in order to form a new guide rail instead of the old cast iron one I'm not saying that that is a bad repair but after the years the new rail might have bend or rusted away to a degree where it makes it impossible to use device it has to go I'm using an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel in order to remove the rivet heads then a punch mark is used to beat the rivets out of there with the old makeshift guide coming off the sliding jaw can now easily be pulled out of the body in the next step the sliding jaw is why I wield with a big angle grinder this is not yet about a perfect finish but more about removing thick rust and old grease in order to inspect the part for more possible damages but luckily I don't find anything too serious now I focus on the broken body of the vise on the bottom we find lots of rust but cast iron is actually quite resilient to rusting and the loose corrosion we find here seems to be from the steel plate that was riveted to it the remnants of the rivets are drilled out and punched out now the body is wire wheeled and I start with the crack itself the gaping hole in there might well be a blow hole in german lucca that was created during the original casting process it might also be a drill hole that is a remnant of yet another earlier repair attempt the fact that I found another vise with the same fault on line shows that this might just be a weak spot of this particular model the back side of the body is wire wield as well I'm trying to use this silicone spray to clean the drill holes that once held the bolts holding the box and as luck would have it these ordinary m8 bolts just fit inside unfortunately the only original bolt seems to have broken off at one point I would have thought that this would work but I managed to just get it out of there with some pliers some wire wheeling continues and I even use sandblasting to remove dirt and rust now I will start to prepare the crack for brazing a grinder wheel is used to remove some material and to get a nice and even surface here a custom-made piece of steel will be braced to the cast-iron body you will understand in just a few minutes but first the box is also wire wheeled here the pipe vise for round work pieces comes in handy are repaired it in an earlier era para thong by the way you can find all earlier episodes of the series down in the video description but before the brazing can begin a new guide rail attachment must be made from steel a few pieces of leftover flat stock are cut with an angle grinder and at least some of the surfaces a ground off in the meantime body sliding jaw and box have been put back together with the jaws aligned as well as possible the flat stock pieces are carefully placed onto the vise and aligned before they are TIG welded together you now two four millimeter holes are drilled into the stock and mark the spots on the vise and drill two small holes into the cast as well and now two m4 threats a hand cut into the vise body and now two bolts are screwed in there in order to hold the attachment down the purpose is not to withstand any larger amount of force they are simply there to keep the attachment aligned until the part is thoroughly braced in place if the guide rail were to slip off during that process the vias could end up unusable with a jammed jaw like before and now to thick pieces of flat stock are used to reinforce the new guide rail attachment in order to brace the parts together the Burke piece needs to be preheated to several hundred degrees Celsius since I don't have an oven that size I employ the self-made fire bowl that I made from a shower tub in the last episode and I use a fire to heat up the vise while the fire is burning let me explain what brazing is and why I'm not simply welding the pieces together cast iron is very hard to weld or brace in order to weld it you can use stick welding with electrodes containing nickel however the work piece needs to be pre heated and cooled down slowly after the welding or the weld will simply crack open furthermore welding is very hot and can weaken the cast iron brazing also called hard soldering or in German hot Lewton is different from welding because the temperature is only hot enough to melt the solder but not the workpiece it is thus less invasive than welding brazing is like soaring but always hotter than at least 450 degrees Celsius here we are brazing with brass filler which melts at over 900 degrees Celsius after the brazing is finished the vise is placed back into the tub in order to cool down slowly over many hours the next morning I use a slack hammer and a wire brush to clean the seams up here I certainly used too much brass but the bond looks good enough the brace on the side looks better than what I had expected keep in mind I have never braced on such a large workpiece before it takes experience to know what nozzle to use and how to apply the right amount of heat etc considering that I'm more than happy now the guide is completed by quickly TIG welding another piece of flat steel on to the attachment I wanted to wait with this till the very end to make sure that the sliding jaw can travel with ease and that there would be no jamming in the process and because I seemingly just can't get enough of it there is now more wire wheeling and finally a coat of oil supply to the vise some of you might wonder why I rarely apply paint to my items here the answer is easy I think there is no color better than raw cast and here in my shop I just don't have any problems with humidity but will the brace hold well only time will tell and we will sure use this vise in the future since I really have started to like it and you can be sure that it will pop up again in future episodes being used as a vise in my shop whoo that was really a demanding repair and I do feel a little exhausted after that I will now show you one more item but I'll make it quick since the repairs on it were really not that spectacular from the same spot where I found that big vise I also brought this smaller unit here I found it interesting because of its unusual shape it also seems to be welded together from steel and cast iron paths which I haven't seen before this vise really didn't have any real damages I simply remove the old paint and rust but this time also employing chemical paint stripper it works well but it has a pretty nasty smell and you will end up with the mixture of often toxic old paint and the remains of the paint stripper which is maybe not that easy to get rid of plus the stuff is kind of expensive but after I had washed that off I again proceeded by cleaning and oiling device and for relatively little work we should have a nice mid sized kinda historic vise here so as always I hope that you enjoyed this episode that you liked this concept and if you liked the video and want to see more then please give the video a like giving me a clear signal to go full steam ahead with the production of more videos like this and if you want to support my work here then maybe consider visiting my patreon on the patreon.com /tpa i and you can also find a donation link under this video see you soon guys

Channel: The Post Apocalyptic Inventor

Views: 239,771

Keywords: TPAI, tool restoration, tool repair, restoration, rusty restoration, tool rescue, rusty tools, vintage tools, vintage restoration, german tools, made in germany, scrapyard, salvage yard, gerolf kebernik, gerolf, vise restoration, brazing, vise repair

Id: xp1DE3dMNoM

Length: 18min 52sec (1132 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 14 2020